Forum


Monty Roberts Equus Online University
Horse Training Video Instruction Program

Learn all about Equus • Dually Halter • Shy Boy Mustang • Jumping Horses
• Story of a Horse Whisperer • Riding Horsemanship • Dressage Horses • Willing Partners
• Horse Training • Round Pen Lessons • Performance Horses • Join-Up

← back

Horse Behavior and Training

Working at a racetrack; behaviour help

Please upload your photo
Hi there! This is my first season working at a racetrack, with previous horse experience many (many!) years ago with jumping, trail rides, and sanctuary volunteer work. I am curious for tips on correcting unwanted behaviours in young thoroughbreds (2-3 years old) when A) I do not own the horses B) the common way of correction for barn workers is yelling, chain shanks around the nose, or physical correction like slapping, and C) there is no round pen to work off energy and do a join-up for establishing leadership and bonding. My job is to walk the horses for cooldown after their morning exercise on the track, and to groom in their stall (in the stall there is little to no room to back up the horse as "work"). I want to better manage unwanted behaviours such as nipping/ biting, crowding/ kicking/ butt-shuffling into me in the stall, and stop head strong horses from pulling me when walking. I want to use Monty's methods to correct these behaviours for my own safety and the horses', but I have to work around specific limited time frames, limited space, and a sometimes chaotic environment. 
Does anyone else have racetrack experience or tips? Thanks so much.      
JoHewittVINTA
Please upload your photo 100 lessons completed 150 lessons completed 200 lessons completed 250 lessons completed 300 lessons completed 350 lessons completed 400 lessons completed 450 lessons completed 500 lessons completed 550 lessons completed 600 lessons completed 650 lessons completed
Hi. Welcome to the Uni. I have given your post some thought before answering so please don't take the delay as a negative. I have had experience with race horses & eventers as well as people's private horses. It is possible to use Monty's methods without Join up, to great effect. However, you may experience criticism from both other staff & owners. Possibly the biggest disadvantage you will have is lack of a Dually head collar. 

Start by learning to control yourself, your breathing, your adrenaline level. Horses read us like books. A calm handler in a stressful situation causes the horse to think when a gentle hand replaces a harsh rebuke. Next, work on your body language. Every movement a person makes even close by a horse is informative to that horse. If movements are quick & aggressive & the attention is elsewhere, with raised adrenaline, the horse will read that negatively. A human who moves calmly, smoothly, efficiently, without giving negative body language signals, may be worthy of mutual respect.

Horses that bite should not be slapped in the face - this reinforces the horses perception that aggression is required, they need to defend themselves. A light tap with your toe on the horses shin, a gentle bump, is effective. The horse will quickly learn that trying to bite causes this response, will stop part way to biting & look down at their shin. The human should then scratch the horse as a reward. 

Progress must be accompanied by instant reward. When they are excited, after strenuous exercise for example, take a moment or two to stand quietly & breath slowly & deeply. Do not demand the horse stands still but place a hand on their neck or shoulder & gently scratch to encourage relaxation. When exiting the stable, ask for three steps back from the door then proceed out into the chaos of the yard. Once horses recognise your communications they will respond. Don't be discouraged, these things take time. Study the lessons, practice your body language & breathing control. Please let us know how you get on. Cheers, Jo.


Lefrancois762
Please upload your photo
THANK YOU so much for replying… I was starting to worry I was the only one here! :) 
I am doing my best to use Monty’s methods, and I do wish I could try using the Dually halter instead of the leather ones with a chain shank. I have been using the shin tap on the colt that bites, and he’s improved so much already!! The nipping is nearly gone. 

At this establishment there is no yard I take the horses out to; I walk them down the narrow barn hallway for the 15-20 min cooldown but challenges arise with stalled horses that bite, and other hot walkers and exercise riders using the laneway as well. The larger horses I walk are super strong and tend to “wet noodle” (bend their neck to the left so the head ends up in front of me with the hind end tracking out to the right) and it’s hard to gain control of the horse… and everyone says to “be the boss” and yank the chain shank to make the horse behave :(  In the limited space it seems my only option to establish leadership is to occasionally stop the horse and back it up a few steps before continuing on but sometimes I cannot (lane traffic). 

Do you have any tips for a horse that hates its pre-exercise brushing in the stall, and shuffles its butt back to pressure me and kick at me? It’s clearly aggressive (even tho she’s a sweetie after her workout) and I cannot figure out how to stop this behaviour for my safety. 

I will keep watching the lessons and I also have From My Hands To Yours arriving soon. 
Thanks so much!!
JoHewittVINTA
Please upload your photo 100 lessons completed 150 lessons completed 200 lessons completed 250 lessons completed 300 lessons completed 350 lessons completed 400 lessons completed 450 lessons completed 500 lessons completed 550 lessons completed 600 lessons completed 650 lessons completed
Hi. The trouble with yanking a chain is the nerves, where the chain bites, will quickly become numbed, permanently. Also, the pain that is caused reinforces the horses view that the situation requires they defend themselves - they act out in self preservation & the human confirms their conviction by causing pain. The best response to a 'wet noodle' is to immediately turn around, square your shoulders to the horse, stare him straight in the face, raise your arms & rapidly advance on him 3 or 4 steps, causing him to back up. Then, just as immediately turn back to your original direction & calmly walk on. When you square up to & advance on the horse breath rapidly & as soon as you turn back calm your breathing right down. If you have a horse you know will 'wet noodle' try to organise enough gap behind you so you have space to work. If the horse gets the same surprise tack tics he will quickly choose to walk with you, nose at your shoulder ( so he can't run over you if he gets spooked or over excited ). 

When grooming the safest place is as close to the horse as possible - they can't effectively get a good kick at you if your too close. Try & make the grooming personal. Be unhurried - it's possible to work slower but more efficiently. Some horses like humans who hum tunes whilst they groom & pay a little extra attention to the horses favourite spots. When she moves her butt over to you put your hand out & scratch her. Keep control of your breathing & adrenaline so you project that you enjoy grooming them & likely they will start to enjoy the attention. 

I'd like to share one of my experiences. My friend has a livery yard ( where people stable & turn out their horses ). One of her clients had bought a new horse but the transport arrangements failed & my friend asked if I would collect the horse. I have a two horse trailer & a vintage Land Rover (1971). I followed the new owners car to the yard where this ex brood mare had been retrained for riding for about two months. When we arrived the mare was tied up & the final touches were being made ready for travel, tail bandage, travel boots. She did not look a happy horse. She was not quite 16 hands, an old fashioned medium weight gentlemans hunter probably weighing about 1300 pounds. I opened up the trailer front & back & said to the groom who had been trainer her to walk her through the trailer. She went through alright. Multiple tiny steps, rushing like a horse more frightened of the consequences of not loading than anything. My trailer sustained a considerable amount of excrement throughout & coming down the front ramp the groom almost lost hold of her. Calmly I said to take her through again. The groom stated that the horse did load but I insisted & the mare was a little calmer the second time. The third time the breast bar was in place & the mare stopped but as I stepped up to close the bum bar over behind her I felt the rush past my knee of her hoof. She had been punished all her life for defending herself. I reached up, scratched her rump & quietly said "It's OK, you missed ". The bum bar in place we closed both ramps & set off. 

My Land Rover, being 1960s technology, is slow & steady. No swinging around corners, no sharp braking or violent acceleration to throw the mare around. The groom followed us as the travel boots were hers & she wanted them back. When we arrived she asked that we shut the main gate & gratefully accepted my offer of a 20 foot line - no guesses how she thought the unloading was going to pan out. We offloaded out the front. The mare stopped at the top of the ramp, gazed around at her new abode with interest & sauntered down the ramp coming to a relaxed standstill so her travel boots could be recovered. In essence, she arrived with a completely different mindset. Yes, she was still head shy but for the first time in her life humans had acted for her comfort & wellbeing not just their convenience & she repaid the favour. I don't think the poor groom could believe her eyes. It just goes to show how small changes can make a huge difference. 

Let us know how you get on. It won't be easy, circumstances are against you but if you get really lucky some of the more intelligent staff may see your small achievements & realise that calm racehorses try harder. I take it you know that Monty was deeply involved in the racing industry.  Cheers, Jo.
Lefrancois762
Please upload your photo
Thanks again!! if I may ask regarding the butt- shuffle where she kicks: is this a friendly bum scratch meant to comfort? Or is this done firmly to display leadership, like the eyes-on-eyes as you back the horse up tactic? It’s clear from the horse that this is a “don’t touch me/ I’m going to topple over you and kick you” ears pinned back display, even from the softest brush. She purposely backs herself into the corner of the stall so she can pendulum her butt into my space (so smart!). She simply hates being touched at all before she gets tacked up. 
I’ll try my best and keep reading/ watching. Really appreciate the feedback and tips, tysm. 
Lefrancois762
Please upload your photo
Do you recall which video has the demo of using the hands up high to back the horse on a lead away? I can't seem to find that lesson now.