Test yourself each week as I challenge you to answer the question below. I mean this. Sit down and write an answer. Don’t wait for my answer next week. If you have been reading my Weekly Questions and Answers for the last six months, you should be in a position to do this. Send your answer to my team at: askmonty@montyroberts.com

Why should you bother? Because it will help you focus. There is probably a comparable question in your life that needs answering… or will be. If you can gain insight into how to go about answering a practical question that is loosely related to your problem, this exercise will help you answer your nagging question. Then read my answer. I want all of my students to learn to be better trainers than me.That’s good for you and good for horses!

~ Monty

NEXT WEEK’S QUESTION:

I have been riding since I was 6 years old. I dreamed of having my own horse for as long as I can remember however my parents said no well at least “not yet” they said horses where expensive and yes they were right about that… I remember running out the door crying many times when I wanted a horse so badly more to the point I needed a horse. After many years, I finally gave up on ever getting a horse I started taking lessons. Finally I helped a trainer with a horse named Brumby and we got him to the point that he could be ridden. After months of training I finally brought Brumby home. I was over the moon with this! I’ve had Brumby home for about a year now and I have done all kinds of stuff on him however I don’t have an arena to work in so I’m working in a small flat spot and been working on trot to canter transitions. However, I feel like I’m doing the same thing ever single day and I don’t know how to switch up my training or maybe if there’s classes I can take with Brumby or just something different because when I’m jumping Brumby his heart just isn’t in it he is very slow and I continually have to be whipping him with the crop to get him moving over the jumps. Please help!

12/18/2024: I have a 14.2hh Connie X with a teaspoon of TB & British riding pony, highly intelligent and equally sensitive. He’s a lovely boy but he seems to be getting worse with his separation anxiety and the need to control his environment as I perceive it.

The problem is with his loading and being able to be taken to places. I have worked with him on this issue, I’ve conducted join up /follow up and he responded wonderfully, the trust he showed he’s demonstrated as I slowly nurtured him back into the trailer (static) using only his willingness as my guide rather than force the issue. Over two months having started with an empty partition-less trailer I’ve managed to reconstruct the trailer around him. We recently got to the stage whereby he could be closed in and left for a short time (5 minutes). However, he’s regressed to the point of having to start again when a vehicle was attached today.

I’m sure that I’m leaving many pertinent subtleties in fully appraising his issue such as his need to know and see everything, exciting moments sees him ask to go out to the field and not necessarily stay with the other two boys. The herd dynamics is that he’s not the top dog but he mirrors their every move whether in the stable or field.

I’ve sensed that probably he may have been through previous homes spending much time in stabled environs but being only 8, I can’t think that it would have been many homes. I would appreciate any thoughts on how best to proceed with him.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your inquiry. Reading into your words it is my strong feeling that you are extremely interested in the behavioral patterns of Equus. In assessing your reactions to your horse’s behavior, I feel very strongly that you are over-emphasizing the subtleties of the thought patterns from your horse. I have to tell you that I would love to work with you and your horse. I don’t know where you live but you might be in the UK. Should you wish to rewrite your inquiry and include the location of you and your horse, then I could make suggestions on who might be best to help you.

I feel strongly that you are deep in the area of being fair with your horse which is admirable. Conversely, it seems to me you are applying human thought patterns to your horse which is not uncommon but often times will lead you in the wrong direction. Let’s agree that your horse is ‘equus caballos’. We can agree that there are four legs, a long neck and a brain that is tuned to the world of the flight animal.

What we need to do is usher our animal down the flight animal path, allowing a comfort zone for each of the tasks that we chose for him. I would love to hear from you and even to see some video clips before I begin recommending patterns to follow. As I sit right now, I would be guessing at these problems with a blind fold on.

Do I think you can fix them? No, I know you can fix them! It’s only a matter of getting the environment right. The little evidence that I can pull from your communication would suggest that he is a highly intelligent animal. He is only doing what he knows to do. I am here to assist you if you choose to follow through with the information I need.

12/11/2024: I have a question for Monty regarding my horse Ted. Ted is a rescue and we have finally developed effective communication and a beautiful partnership. I have noticed a correlation with his defensiveness re-emerging at very specific times. It is related with his needing to urinate. I understand how this discomfort makes him edgy, as a nurse. He will only urinate in his paddock. I assume it is related to safety and he loathes splashing of his feet, he’s an incredibly neat horse.

I knew race track trainers at Golden Gate Fields that used to train horses to urinate pre-race or pre-exercise by whistling but have absolutely no idea how to train for this. I’m hoping you have some guidance and recommendations. I have attended the last 3 consecutive years of The Movement and am in awe of your innate ability to hear the horses and meet their needs. Thank you so much for your time and consideration!

Monty’s Answer: This is an area I have become very familiar with particularly through the racing industry. You are probably not aware of the fact that in Argentina the Thoroughbred race horses are never allowed to urinate in their stable. It is a unique industry with responsible people living nearby for every three or four horses that they are in charge of. Questioning these men, I learned that they train the horses to urinate only in a container on a stick. This is a very nice way to keep the stalls dry and these men have learned how to train the horse to use the container 3-4 times per day with precise timing. This is an extreme condition that isn’t necessary with pleasure horses.

So far as training the horse to urinate on the whistle, one must first realize that his feet need to be in the proper area so as to decrease splashing. Watch for the tell-tale pausing of the horse and stretching with the front feet that is normal. When this occurs, ride or lead to the soft area and begin the whistling before there is urine being passed. The two factors, soil and whistle, will bring about urination in almost every case. It isn’t a major mistake to miss it by a little bit but gradually you will learn how to line up these idiosyncrasies so as to cause urination which is predictable.

Whistling is effective as it sounds like water meeting water. You could whistle for your horse but there are more habit related activities than simply whistling. Activity, exercise and time is essential to habituate urination. Ride your horse for the period of time that is normal for you. Moderate exercise is a good way to build for the onset of urination. If one has an area which discourages splashing it is a good thing. A mound of sound will do the job under normal circumstances. A couple of wheel barrel loads of sand will often do the trick. As soon as your horse feels the cushion under his feet and hears your whistle, he is likely to urinate.

After each race in America, there is a urinalysis on each of the horses in competition. A portion of each urination is captured in a container by a veterinarian. It is then analyzed so that any drugs in the system would be exposed in the urine collected. Most people don’t realize that this goes on after each race, but I have been there and watched it many times. Naturally this is right after pretty extreme exercise and generally calls upon the urination process by giving small amounts of water during the cooling out process. The horse will then begin to stretch out while walking and let them know that it’s time to make their collection.

You will probably be the best friend of whomever cleans your stall. If you play with this theory you will be meeting the needs of your horse as well. The reason he chooses the stabling area is that it probably is the loose dirt factor telling him that the urine is not going to hit a hard surface and splash upon his legs. He is obviously a neat character and will be grateful for his own sand mound if you choose to follow these directions I have outlined. It is so gratifying to me to learn that there are horse owners out there that are interested enough to learn the what the horses need, thank you for that.

12/4/2024: My mare is really uneasy with clippers. I’ve been desensitizing her for the last 12 months. No rush. I have managed her body no problem at all but her legs, she hates. I managed front legs but she was kicking out with her back. How do I go about it?

Monty’s Answer: It is commendable that you are incrementally helping her become comfortable with clippers around her body. It is often the sound and vibration which bothers a horse. If your horse trusts you enough to clip her body now, the next step is for her to become tolerant of the buzzing on her legs. With a horse who cannot have certain areas of their body clipped (it is often the ears) my first procedure is to use plastic bags on a stick to rub her all over with an emphasis on the legs. The process is to approach her with the handle end of the stick first, keeping the plastic bags behind you, and rub gently at her withers which is a sweet spot on most horses.

If she is relaxed with that end, turn the stick around and repeat the rubbing with the plastic bags this time. Timing your bags to go away when she relaxes is imperative and you should study my lesson series on Horses Fear the Clippers on my Online University.. It is now possible to buy electric toothbrushes almost anywhere. Get one, and tape it to a bamboo pole or similar light stick of some sort. Make it long enough so that you are completely out of any danger. I recommend the use of the Dually Halter so as to educate your horse to stand while you are out of the kick zone. Stroke your horse first with the toothbrush off.

Once you have her standing, allowing the toothbrush and the pole to touch her everywhere, then turn on the toothbrush and begin at the wither. Continue to work broadening the area you touch. It may take some time, but every horse will eventually learn to like the massage effect of the vibrating toothbrush. Give her a good reason to trust the sound as well as the vibrating movement. In everything you do with your horse, start with what is easier for the horse and work toward what is most difficult. When she shows even a small sign of relaxation, take the toothbrush away. Remember to work on both sides of your horse.

When ready and relaxed, use rechargeable clippers (no cord) to rub without clipping at first until she can tolerate that vibration too. Another tool you could employ is a rechargeable handheld massager over the withers first and then down on the legs. The experience your horse has should be completely pain free in order for her to learn to accept your clippers eventually. I think you will find the learning goes quite quickly when you have taken the incremental steps to introduce each level of sound and vibration to her. Let us know how it goes.

11/27/2024: Just wondered if I could ask your advice please. My horse is ridden in a loose ring snaffle (she’s also got a full cheek french link snaffle). She’s 26 and good as gold riding out on her own but when she’s in company she’s really hard to hold, she won’t walk, she just trots, then she bolts with me and throws me off. It’s just like she gets way too excited. I’ve had her 10 years and her previous owner said it was as a result of hunting and fun rides. Others from the yard have asked me to go with them and I’d love to but I need more brakes before I do. Which bit would you recommend I try? I also have a martingale if you think that might help? Do you have any other advice? Thanks!

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. A 26-year-old horse that has enough energy to trot and pull is, in many cases, a dream come true. Many horses have no energy by the time they are 26 or don’t even make it to 26. I recommend a shank bit with a leather curb strap and some tongue relief, not a straight bar Pelham. I am referring to a bit with a 5”- 6” cheek for leverage.

Ride your horse in an enclosed area and school your senior mount to stand still. Standing still is achieved by stopping, lowering the hands to release any pressure, and then allowing 2-3 steps from the energetic horse. After taking 2 or 3 steps, stop with as little pressure as possible and back up a few steps.

It is quite possible that this horse will not back up. In that case, teach your horse to back up by getting a reverse step or two and then release and give a rub. If there are forward steps, only let it be 2-3 steps and stop again. Don’t ride your horse in the open country with company until you have complete control with the curb and the leather chin strap.

11/20/2024: Can anyone learn the horses’ language or does it require a special talent?

Monty’s Answer: For the past 30 years, I have set out to show the world how my concepts have improved the lives of horses. It has not been easy. The books I’ve written have helped, and my Monty Roberts University online has exposed my concepts globally. There are massively more ways to learn today than there ever has been in the 6000 years since we domesticated the first horses. It does not require a special talent, only a desire to learn.

An email was delivered to me recently from a woman who had attended one of my demos in the 1990s. She wrote “My mom sent me these scrapbook pages that she did, and I thought Monty might enjoy seeing them. She and I were at that demonstration and it really changed how we handled horses. I remember it was quite a scandal in the horse community there at the time, like he was a witch doctor or something. I’m really glad those times have changed!”

“I remember, I started my first colt shortly after going to that demonstration. I think that was the nicest thing they could say in rural Nevada at that time. “Gently” breaking! I have another horse that I rescued from a typical cowboy that hobbled and blindfolded him as a 3 year old in a pen full of cattle. It took lot of Join-Ups to get his trust back, but he is 25 years old now, and he’s been my best bud, and an awesome jumper, for all those years. Thanks for all that you do for the horses and for the veterans!” Cass H.

11/13/2024: Is going back to the barn your horse’s favorite thing to do?

Monty’s Answer: Rushing home is often called Barn Sour, which is a misnomer because the horse loves the barn and is not “soured” on it at all. You can help your horse with patience and consistency. Basically you have trained your horse to this habit and it will take a lot of work on your part to re-school your horse’s thoughts about returning to the barn.

You insist you didn’t train your horse to be totally unruly whenever you turn back toward the barn but consider this from the horse’s perspective: upon returning to the barn, work is finished, the cinch is loosened, the saddle removed, feed is put in the box, a bath or a good brushing is administered, after which you are turned out with your buddies to rest and relax and left alone to do what horses do.

From now on, don’t ride back to the barn to do all these activities. Stop before you get to the barn, dismount, loosen the saddle and walk, leading your horse to the barn. Better yet, ride past the barn, stop, dismount, scratch your horse’s neck under the mane, talk and enjoy a few quiet moments, then turn and walk to the barn.

Let the horse stand for a while to cool off before removing the saddle and blanket, before receiving any feed, before being turned loose. Make the “end of the day” reward occur somewhere other than at the barn.

Vary the routine to keep it from becoming boring or something the horse may begin to anticipate like he used to anticipate “charging” back to the barn before. This will likely help with his tenseness and spookiness too. Make it fun for you both.

11/06/2024: How intelligent do you think horses are?

Monty’s Answer: The intelligence of horses exists in a very narrow range. They only have two goals in life. One is to reproduce and the other is to survive. In that very narrow range, I take the position that they are much more intelligent than human beings. Look what we do to one another. Watch the critical mistakes that we make, mostly in the areas of ego and greed, and you will see that horses are extremely intelligent where they need to be.

10/30/2024: Isn’t it dangerous to work with horses at your age?

Monty’s Answer: It is always dangerous to work with an animal much larger than we are. It is true that I am less athletic today than I was 50 or so years ago. I love my work and when I no longer feel safe doing it, I’ll know. I didn’t get into the horse business until I was about four years old. The horses have been my professors for the other 76 years.

Having participated in the revolution to train horses in the absence of violence, I am continually inspired by the improvements in the concepts of Join-Up®. My decades of observation and experience keep my timing and techniques improving, even at 88. I firmly believe I am safer than most anyone who steps into the round pen.

Ask someone who has attended one of my demonstrations and see if you agree that the horses are relaxed and trusting when we get our work right.

10/23/2024: I have completed Join-Up and decent follow-up with this mare, she comes to me in the field and she will let me touch her all over. She really seems to enjoy my presence and I enjoy hers. She’s a five-year-old Thoroughbred with very little training, but she has never been abused either, so she’s been very receptive to all of your techniques. She willingly does (almost) everything I ask her to do, but I’ve been having some trouble with her nipping. She is not hand fed by anyone and I have never hand fed her myself, so I’m fairly certain that is not the cause. She does it whether I have a lead line on her or not, but she only does it when she’s following me.

She’s not really biting, she’s just kind of lipping, I’ve never even felt her teeth, but I’m concerned that this will progress and turn into biting. My best guess is that’s she’s trying to get my attention, or perhaps she’s trying to control me. I tried bumping her with my boot, and maybe I’ve been doing it wrong, because she seems to expect it and she’ll move away from me. If she’s trying to get my attention, should I ignore her? I’m willing to try whatever, thank you in advance!

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for following my concepts with interest. I have read closely your description of the circumstances regarding your five-year-old Thoroughbred. It is my opinion that you have put your finger exactly on the problem when you suggest that she seems to be trying to control you.

My suggestion is that, with the use of the Dually Halter, you wait for the negative behavior and then you simply decide to go in a different direction, left or right. One should grip the line and walk into it so as to strongly request she follow you. I believe that this will occur for about five repetitions of the actions of the Dually Halter and then you will watch your mare reach to nuzzle you and think better of it and simply walk with you.

I would repeat this for several days before I would feel confident that you were making permanent change in her behavioral patterns. It would be good to hear from you as time goes by so as to follow the progress of these recommendations.

10/16/2024: This horse has been trained not to canter as its previous owner was older and just wanted to walk and trot so the horse was told off every time he tried to canter. Now when you ask for the transition into canter it is very difficult and he usually does a lot of fast trotting. Most of the instructors say smack/kick him and squeeze him lots, but by doing this you usually only get a couple of strides. How would you teach him that he is allowed to canter and that it isn’t a negative thing when it’s so hard to get a couple of strides in?

Monty’s Answer: This is a question that strikes right at the heart of the Giddy-Up Rope. If one goes to the Equus Online Uni lesson series titled ‘Walter Won’t Go Forward’, this is a great example of the use of the Giddy-Up Rope. It is the alternative to painful striking, which I do not recommend.

10/9/2024: What is the most important thing I should know about dealing with a two-month-old foal?

Monty’s Answer: The most important knowledge that I can impart to you is to be safe and work with your foal without violence and force. At two months of age, probably the most important factor is leading the foal alongside his mother. I suggest the use of the Foal Handler which is detailed in my book From My Hands to Yours and on my Equus Online University.

The Foal Handler is a length of one-inch-thick cotton rope joined in a configuration that makes a figure-eight. The length of this rope is determined by the size of the foal. The point where the rope comes together becomes a natural handle. The figure-eight can be adjusted to fit the intended foal. Please see my resources mentioned above to get all the correct details.

Make sure the mare and foal are in a safe enclosure with good footing. Some foals may be frightened, and take a bit of time to accept the Foal Handler. It is important to keep them safe during this acclimation period. I advise that a halter is first placed on the foal. Once haltered, put the Foal Handler on by sliding the smaller loop over the head of the foal and then drop the larger loop around the hindquarters.

In order to prepare your young one for the life experiences it will face, such as veterinary and farrier care, I further suggest that it is important to groom and pick up feet, encouraging your foal to stand and to be comfortable with you during these procedures. Most importantly, everyone will have fun if you are safe and work in the absence of violence.

10/2/2024: For the past month, I have been experiencing an interesting problem with my horse. About 30 minutes into a trail ride, he will start favoring one of his front legs. The first time this happened I dismounted and checked his hoof and leg. There was no heat, swelling, stones, obvious bruising, nothing to indicate any problem. Nonetheless to be on the safe side, we turned back and I walked him back to the barn. As we were returning, I noticed that as we got to the barn his limp disappeared. This happened for the next three rides.

My husband and I both suspected he was faking. So the next ride we decided to trailer some place new, thinking he wouldn’t fake an injury on a new trail. However, he pulled the same stunt. Thirty minutes into the ride he pretended to be lame. Instead of getting off of him, I stayed in the saddle and we rode as if he was fine. He limped while we were outward bound, and then when we started back to the trailer he became sound again. My feeling is that if we continue to ignore his act, he will eventually cut it out. I can’t really have him checked by a vet because at the barn he is totally sound. I wanted to get your thoughts about this.

Monty’s Answer: This is a question that sincerely strikes at the heart of every scientific study that has ever been done regarding equine intelligence or the behavioral sciences connected with to the horse. The pure scientist would laugh your story off the page. The fact is however, that pure scientists, at one time scoffed at the thought of the earth being round. Scientists now know the earth is round but will soundly reject the theory that healers can make you well without touching you.

My life is led in the world of pure science. Psychology and specializing in the behavioral sciences has kept me busy since the age of 4. While I hold degrees in pure science I have never completely closed a little window at the top of my brain which would leave room for the earth to be round, or the healer to magically solve your medical problems without medication or even a touch. I don’t think it can happen, but who in the world am I to say for sure that it hasn’t happened or is happening?

There is a lot of room in your story for misdiagnosis. I have dealt with Peruvian Pasos by the hundred, and I can’t remember one that I didn’t suspect of being lame or slightly off. Consistently I would be admonished by knowledgeable Peruvian Paso people that ’it’s just their way of going’. Quite possibly your horse alters his gait slightly when he is moving in a direction that is slightly less desirable than the direction that he would like to go if given the opportunity as his own freedom of choice.

While traveling in this slightly less than desirable direction there may be a psychological component that causes his physiology to alter his stride just enough to appear to be experiencing pain. If we can agree that horses can’t lie then we can also agree that they can’t fake anything. I believe that horses can’t lie, and I believe that your horse is not faking a lameness. I am convinced that there is a logical reason for his actions if a careful diagnosis is conducted by a thoroughly experienced horseman.

You could be right however, and maybe you have the first horse on earth that can lie. Who is to say that to fake something isn’t coming down the path in the evolution of Equus, the same as their foot changed from three toes to one or their size evolved from that of a mid-sized dog to the animal that we see today. Your question begs all of us to continue our studies and educate ourselves wherever we can to become more familiar with this four-legged partner of ours we love so much.

09/25/2024: I have a twelve year old Thoroughbred mare that I am planning to take to horse shows but she has a problem with trailers. She was at the racetrack the first three years of her life and then she came back to the farm without leaving for the next nine years.

For about three weeks I fed her in the trailer until she was comfortable going in and out of it. The first few times a couple other people stood behind her to coax her in but only increased her discomfort for anyone behind her so I continued to work with her alone. Of course I couldn’t lead her in and shut the gate behind her at the same time so I asked another person to help shut the door once she was inside. She walked into the trailer quietly and started eating but when she realized the door was closed, she panicked and started kicking. He was able to latch the door closed as she was kicking it and then I was able to get her quiet.

We took her for a little ride in the trailer and then brought her back to the farm. The next time I had someone to help with the door, she panicked and kicked the door again. Since he wasn’t able to latch the door, she flew back out of the trailer. This repeated a few times which ended up in damage to the floor of the trailer. I have since gotten it repaired and want to try loading her again but without her doing damage to it or herself. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Monty’s Answer: Dealing with this business of door kickers is not an easy subject. Once horses frighten themselves by kicking the door they tend to blame the door and it’s not an easy fix. My #1 suggestion would be to load the horse in a trailer with no partitions. Turn them to an angle in the trailer before closing the door and then release them to be free inside the trailer as you take them on a journey.

I recommend that one executes a fair distance on this trip attempting to observe their behavior during the course of it. It is helpful to continue long enough so that you achieve relaxation before ending the session. I personally like to put some hay in the front corner, stop once in a while and see if you can get them to stand quietly with no motion.

With the use of the Dually Halter I school my horses to back in to a substantial fence using the corner of a pen or field. The object of this lesson is to accustom the horse to having a wall or object behind them without taking offense to it. Remember that the trailer is a dark confining place and most horses have a tendency to feel the need for more freedom. There is a claustrophobic component to this problem and the more we can do to help the horse understand that they are not going to be hurt, the better we will do.

Once the horse will load and haul loose and relaxed, then we can proceed to the next level. At this point I would add the presence of a friend to the scenario. This might be a pony or a small horse which also travels loose with your subject animal. When this can be accomplished with relaxation and a low pulse rate, then begin to consider replacing the partitions and trying once more to accomplish traditional transportation.

One should always be aware of stall sizes and the direction the horse is asked to face. Slant hauling is advisable. This is where the stall is 45% angle to the road. There are many reasons why this is a more user-friendly format by which to transport horses. If it is safe to ride in the trailer so that you can observe your horse through these procedures, it would be a helpful measure. Make sure you check the laws of your state and county.

09/18/2024: Can saddle fitting affect the right lead in the canter? I would like advice on how saddle fitting can affect the right lead in the canter? I have been told that my dressage saddle is preventing my horse to strike on the correct lead on a right hand circle. He favors the left during flat work but will use both in showjumping and trial riding. I believe I just haven’t made my instructions clear to my horse and he hasn’t learnt that my left leg pressure means right lead please! Can my saddle fit have such an effect? My instructor insists once I have the correct saddle and fit my horse will instantly want to strike the right lead. Please help!

Monty’s Answer: Before entering the area of saddle fitting, I would like you to do some tests for me. If you can ride your horse bareback it would help to identify the potential problem at hand. If your horse still has problems with the right lead, it’s probably not the saddle. If your horse suddenly has no problem with the right lead, I suggest you borrow different saddles to test sizes and shapes etc.

You might ask the advice of a saddle fitter but always allow your horse to be the final judge of the saddle you use. Remember that placing the saddle behind the scapula is probably going to cause your horse more problems than it would place the saddle well on top of the scapula. There are many reasons for this phenomenon.

09/11/2024: Have you any plans to raise the profile of violence-free training by getting some top riders involved?

Monty’s Answer: I have the grandest plans you could ever imagine for getting top riders involved in learning my methods of violence free training. It is one of the most exciting challenges of my career, and I plan to meet that challenge through the use of modern day technology. I find it hard to believe that with a touch of a button one can reach tens of thousands of people, with the responsibility to bring them the best information possible. I can now be with you and you with me, as we explore horses and horse training.

Within the content of this Online exploration of my concepts I plan to bring to the students lessons from the greatest masters on Earth at the present time. I have commitments from the top Dressage riders, Show Jumping performers, racing greats and the absolute top trainers in Western competitions.

They have agreed to share their wisdom through my Online University. These world-class riders will be bringing to my students their methods for achieving world-class results. It is incredibly exciting to me to launch into this effort, which has been brought to me by the tens of thousands of interested horsemen that have come to know my work. I consider this one of the great blessings of my life.

I appreciate that some of you might be concerned that this free newsletter with my free weekly Question and Answer educational effort might go away. This free Question and Answer is a precious element of mine. I am ultra sensitive to the concerns, particularly of young people, who find tuition of any sort a hardship.

It is critical that we continue to provide youngsters, such as I once was, with the opportunity to learn. Once we have planted the seeds of interest and fascination in those young minds, it is absolutely critical to continue the upward migration of a more sophisticated learning potential than the Question and Answer column could ever accomplish. I wish to always serve the young and old, whether or not they can afford a tuition bearing educational effort.

It is my hope that you can see where a much more in depth learning experience is also possible. I want to know that you are out there saying, “Good on you, Monty Roberts, for providing assistance to everyone who wants it and fully across the spectrum of age, sex, nationality and for those who cannot afford to pay as well as though who can.” Please search your mind for the full understanding of our efforts. Continue to respond and inform us of your thoughts. They are extremely valuable.

Every time I write a book, create an online lesson, give an interview or teach a course, I think back on the time when I was eleven years of age. I remember asking my parents for a cable stitch sweater. I was told that if I cleaned my twenty two stalls every morning and raked the alleyway to perfection for the next sixty days, then I could have my cable stitch sweater. I remember ticking the days off and ultimately earning my sweater. As I recall, it would have cost eight or ten dollars.

During the course of these thoughts I consistently ask myself, how would my parents have responded if I had asked for money for a horsemanship class? You would have heard the “NO” from a mile away. It wasn’t to be expected. Every penny was precious in 1946. Please continue to assist me in my effort to remember always those who want a leg up and are willing to do their homework, learn their lessons and perform as good horsemen should.

09/04/2024: Can you tell me the difference between Join-Up and loose longeing, also how to achieve more impulsion in my four year old mare when long lining as she is too used to me. I have had her since she was six months old.

Monty’s Answer: Loose lunging is in fact “loose longeing”. It can be defined as the act of exercising the horse without a rope on it by causing the horse to circle an enclosure through stimulation.

Join-Up is incredibly different from loose longeing and does not necessarily have to be done by moving the horse in a circle. Join-Up is the act of causing the horse to want to be with you instead of away from you through communication.

The communication is with the use of what I call the language “Equus”. It is a language of gestures and not of sound. I have written extensively about how Equus is accomplished and thus how Join-Up is accomplished.

There is a chapter in From My Hands To Yours, which outlines thoroughly the use of the language and the act of Joining Up.

This question is often asked and I believe that as the world is becoming smaller and more densely populated both for horses and people, domestication is more and more intense. I often ask my horses for more forward impulsion with the use of plastic shopping bags on a stick.

Placing the stick in the hand that is holding the line, which encircles the horse’s hips, the plastic bag can be directed straight up the line toward the horse. It will often provide the desired stimulus to increase impulsion. When a turn is accomplished, simply switch hands and repeat the process with the stick and plastic bag in the opposite hand.

08/28/24: Why do you send the horses away from you when you begin to work with them?

Monty’s Answer: I am dealing in the language of Equus. I have learned that they do this within the family group. I have concluded that they do not regard this as an act of violence, but a use of temporary isolation as a form of discipline. There is no hitting and there is no force.The horses do not resent me for this, and they soon come to me as a friend. The horseman who does not understand why I send horses away has not yet learned the language of the horse. It is a part of their natural communication process. If I regarded it as violent, I would stop it at once, but it is not.

If I can help remedial horses with this method, as I do for approximately 500 each year, then why would I ever stop doing it? These horses often come to me with the statement that if I can’t fix them, they will go to the slaughterhouse. I am successful with virtually all of them, and if you read the horses, they will tell you that they appreciate the work I do.

Remember, Lomitas was banned from racing worldwide, and the best people of Germany tried to overcome his problem for months before they called me. He raced successfully ten days after I met him and has been a friend of humans since that time. Lomitas is one of the most successful Thoroughbred stallions in the world today; ask him if he agrees with my methods?

08/21/24: It seems that if I get my horse’s brain focusing on my directions as leader, he will shut off thinking thoughts of his own and only listen to me, his herd leader. What do you think and do you have any good examples to illustrate this?

Monty’s Answer: It seems we are getting very cerebral with this question. I don’t know if the best horseman in the world, whoever that is, wants to be as inquiring as all of this. There is a point at which we must allow good experience to take over and just work with your horse. I personally love to explore equine thought patterns, speculate on what they are thinking and experiment with procedures that will help them understand my desires.


It seems fair to say that we are probably decades from being able to answer this question with any degree of accuracy. Having said that let me tell you about a horse that I showed in competition winning four world championships.

I used to tell people that Johnny Tivio could read and write. If ever there was a horse that I got through to, Johnny was that horse. He seemed to know my every thought and was quick to attempt to accommodate me whatever my requests. A break-through performance is only possible when you have done Join-Up and established trust in your relationship like I did with Johnny.

His ears would flick when I thought about a turn or stop. He seemed to be reading my mind. I am certain that I was flexing muscles slightly that I was less than aware of. It was an incredible experience to sit there looking down his neck and experiencing world-class performance while feeling as though I was much more a passenger than a pilot. I have no way of knowing how much he really understood. It is my hope that someday horse people will be able to comprehend horse behavior such as this.

I don’t know how old you are or how many decades you have to study this science but maybe you’ll be the one to bring to the world a level of understanding as deep as the one to which you inquire about. The fact that you have reached deep into the recesses of your brain to come up with a question like this speaks volumes to your ability to get out of the box and seek the answers related to this uncharted territory.

08/14/2024: How frequently should I do Join-Up with my horse?

Monty’s Answer: I do the full complement of Join-Up in my operation four, five, maybe six times and that is all. Then, you live by the concepts of Join-Up for the balance of the horse’s life. This means when you go into the box stall, you do not just walk in, grab hold of him and pull him around. You walk in, and when he moves away, you look him in the eye, square-up, and move toward him.

When he looks back at you, you walk away and let him catch you. I cannot teach you the Language of Equus any more than I can teach you to speak French. You have to learn it, it’s a long process, and it’s not something someone can teach you overnight. There is a process for learning it, and the potential is available to you now.

08/07/2024: I have a four-year-old paint gelding. When I ask the horse to do something that he does not want to do, he rears. He has done this six times so far, and he has flipped over backwards twice. He fell on me once breaking my shoulder. He understands the cues that I give him, but once he decides he would rather do something else, and I don’t let him, he rears.

For example, after asking for collection, he will give to the bit, but, after about 10 or 15 minutes he will just stop and rear. He has also reared when being driven away from the exit area of arenas. Two separate trainers have watched me when this occurred and informed me that this is a very dangerous behavior, that it is difficult to fix, and believe the best thing to do for safety sake is to get rid of the horse. Is this sound advice, or do you have another suggestion?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your inquiry. It certainly sounds as though your horse is becoming dangerous with his rearing behavior. As you can imagine, it is difficult for us to be able to diagnose the level of remedial behavior without experiencing it, however your email certainly describes a severe remedial problem.

The most important point to remember when working with this behavior is that only a professional trainer and rider should deal with this behavior. If you are neither, you need to find someone that you can trust to stay safe with your horse while using non-violent techniques.

I have written extensively about rearing in my book From My Hand To Yours, and if it is at all possible I would recommend that you read Chapter 8 to gain an in-depth knowledge of how to apply my concepts. However, I can certainly discuss the essential elements involved in retraining the horse that rears.

The first step is to eliminate any physical pain as a cause for the rearing. Consult with the appropriate health professional and dentist in your area to diagnose and alleviate any possible pain – a high percentage of remedial behavior is caused by pain.

Once you are confident that your horse is physically comfortable and in the hands of an experienced professional trainer, you can begin to work to retrain the behavior. Initially, you will do Join-Up to establish a trust-based relationship and school the horse on the Dually Halter to learn to yield to pressure. Then, you will introduce the goggles (a piece of equipment that resembles racing blinkers), and tape the top half of the goggles off so the horse can no longer see above him.

You will introduce the goggles over several days without a rider by working the horse loose, long-lining him and even ponying him from another horse. Once the horse is comfortable with the goggles and moves in figure eights and goes backwards happily while working from the ground, you can start to introduce him to a ‘dummy’ or ‘mannequin’ rider. Details on how to create and use this rider are in From My Hands To Yours.

Once the horse is comfortable with the ‘dummy’ rider, both loose and on the long-lines, a professional ‘live’ rider may be reintroduced. The rider is to exert no pressure on the horse’s mouth whatsoever and will only sit on the horse in a relaxed fashion while the handler works the horse loose in the round pen initially. The next step is to move outside the round pen with a safe saddle horse leading the way, and start asking the horse quietly to achieve more each session.

Be very aware not to put pressure on the horse’s mouth unduly, and to be very clear and consistent in your requests. It may be appropriate to use the Giddy-Up rope/backing up/circling at some point, and further details on these suggestions can be found in “From My Hands To Yours.”

I hope my suggestions are able to help. Please endeavor to find a copy of my book and research the behavior more in-depth before you attempt to work with your horse. Remember, the most important point is to stay safe.

07/31/2024: How do you cure a barn sour horse?

Monty’s Answer: With patience and consistency. Basically you have trained your horse to be what we call ‘barn sour’ and it will take a lot of work on your part to re-school your horse’s thoughts about returning to the barn.

You insist you didn’t train your horse to be totally unruly whenever you turn back toward the barn but consider this from the horse’s perspective: upon returning to the barn, work is finished, the cinch is loosened, the saddle removed, feed is put in the box, a bath or a good brushing is administered, after which you are turned out with your buddies to rest and relax – left alone to do what horses do.

From now on, don’t ride back to the barn to do all these activities. Stop before you get to the barn, dismount, loosen the saddle and walk – leading your horse to the barn. Better yet – ride past the barn, stop, dismount, scratch your horse’s neck under the mane, talk and enjoy a few quiet moments, then turn and walk to the barn.

Let the horse stand for a while to cool off before removing the saddle and blanket, before receiving any feed, before being turned loose. Make the ‘end of the day’ reward occur somewhere other than at the barn.

Vary the routine to keep it from becoming boring or something the horse may begin to anticipate like he used to anticipate ‘charging’ back to the barn before. Make it fun for you both.

*07/24/2024:* Is it harder to get a very dominant horse to do Join-Up?

Monty’s Answer: Yes, it’s a bit harder, but when I say a bit harder I mean just that. While it may be slightly more difficult, I recommend that the horseman not dwell on the negative. The toughest Join-Up is so much easier than the best of the traditional methods that you should look forward to having fun with the process. Do Join-Up and count your blessings.

07/17/2024: Why do you dislike single-line lunging?

Monty’s Answer: I consider single-line lunging the second worst piece of horsemanship there is. Just think about it and it’s obvious. A secretary working with a telephone propped to her ear, balanced off her shoulder for any amount of time generally gets a crick in her neck and a backache. Hang the weight of even a light long line on one side of your horse’s head for any amount of time and it will affect how the horse carries its head, which in turn will affect how its body travels as well – out of balance.

Double line lunging (also called ground driving) incorporates a long line of each side of the horse’s body allowing it to move in a natural and balanced manner. This is what we desire. The horse will be more comfortable and able to concentrate on his lesson and the messages you are transmitting through long lines.

Don’t forget that you can continue to incorporate your body language in the driving or blocking positions as additional communication aids. On double long lines you can teach and the horse can learn contact. On a single long line, you can non-abusively only teach voice commands while your horse is circling – constantly out of balance.

07/10/2024: Join-Up has forever improved my relationship with the six-year-old wild mustang gelding I bought five months ago. However, he is extremely wary of anyone else who has not joined up with him, including my vet and farrier. I’m not able to get his hooves trimmed unless I trim them myself because he bolts across his stall when even calm, gentle people get close, and he will pull the lead rope right through my hands. Do you have suggestions on how to help my gelding through his stranger danger?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for this interesting question. As you probably know mustangs have been a big part of my life. Don’t blame your mustang for doubting and fearing unknown, or known to be painful, human beings. It is true that veterinarians have to cause pain on many occasions to get their job done. Your mustang does not care what the reason is, said simply, “I want no violence in my life”.

You have a sensitive mustang. As I read your question, I conclude that you understand that.

The answer to this question is to create a safe and secure space for your horse when these professionals come to do their work. I realize that there are people who think a chute is unkind. Ask those people what the alternative is. One does not want an injured veterinarian or farrier. I would create a chute. Let’s start by me sending you some videos that I find effective. Once you have created this safe space, then when the professionals arrive, you leave.

If you have a friend who handles horses well, you might ask them to come for the first few visits. Send me some video and use me to read those videos. This is the center of my value in creating a world of the non-violent training of horses. I will help you because your situation is, in fact, happening here on this farm virtually every day we work with the mustangs. We want no injured mustangs. We want no injured horsepersons. And certainly we want no injured veterinarians or farriers. Let me help you.

07/03/24: I’m a great fan of yours and was lucky enough to attend one of your two-day clinics in Hungary a few years ago, if I remember rightly you said that a horse should not be shut in its stable for more than 12 hours in every 24, it sounds excellent, please can you give me some ideas for a routine that would achieve it here in central Italy.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. You can well imagine, the answer to this question must be accompanied by circumstances regarding the availability of stabling within your geographic area.It just so happens that our California Horse Center is becoming a center for “motion” as an integral part of the daily routine of each and every horse. Please stay in touch on our media spaces to see a detailed explanation of what motion means to the daily lives of our horses.

On Flag Is Up Farms in Solvang, California, where the California Horse Center is located, we’ve made enormous strides in the direction of Movement Smart Stabling that meets the physical, mental and emotional needs of horses.

Have a peek at our progressive horse keeping spaces in these videos: https://montyrobertsuniversity.com/lessons#subject_1969888317

Often I will hear that the answers to the challenges of horse housing are impossible to achieve given the circumstances and enclosures available. I believe that nothing is impossible where the lives of our horses are concerned. I am of the opinion that answers are there, it is simply often they are difficult to come by. Every problem has a solution if it is sought out through a mindset believing that anything is possible. Watch our media for a variety of ways to solve these opportunities for our horses.

06/26/24: Are you hopeful about the path forward in terms of horsemanship and communication between humans?

Monty’s Answer: Circumstances of the past two years or so have lead me to be very confident that the world is finally seeing non-violent horsemanship as an advantage in causing horses to perform with a clear indication of enjoying their effort. There have been many decades where I felt it was going to be an impossible task. Recently however the victories of my students as well as professionals who have read of my work are winning major competitions en masse.

At 89, I feel extremely lucky to have lived long enough to witness this change. Polo, racing and the world of Western competition are leading us in the area of non-violent training. The world of the Western horse has changed dramatically in the past year or two. Polo made an enormous change about five years ago when the world’s #1 player adopted my concepts. We are working extremely hard at the moment and the Thoroughbred racing world seems to be listening and I believe acting favorably toward making the necessary changes to add that discipline to the list.

The world of the recreational rider has probably been the easiest to convince but the most difficult to monitor. South America was probably the #1 challenge, but we are seeing definite movement in the right direction. I am enormously confident that we have reached critical mass and the improvements made will continue after I am no longer a presence.

07/09/2024: How do I stop my fast horse without pulling hard on his mouth? I am a big fan of your work, and I have read your book. I am a hunter jumper, and ride English. My horse gets fast, and I don’t want to pull really hard on his mouth but that is the only thing that makes him stop. (Now, he doesn’t get dangerously fast, just fast enough for me to want to slow him down,) I have looked through the Q and A and my interpretation is that you said to back them up when they got fast, then proceed with a loose reign. My problem though is that I can’t stop him and back up without pulling hard on his mouth. How can I stop him and back up without causing him pain?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for sending through this question. It is gratifying to hear from a student who is studying my answers and resources to find the methods that are acceptable to horses. My years of studying equine behavior put me in a unique position to offer you ways to work with your horse safely and fairly, with their natural behaviors in place.

The particular answer you chose to inquire as to whether it applies to your horse who goes a bit faster than you ask, falls in the behavioral pattern that I would recommend. It seems your horse is not bolting so I will proceed along the lines that you want to allow your horse to listen to your hands without causing harsh pulling on his mouth. I am assuming that he is at a trot or a lope when his speed is of concern.

In a safe enclosure, with good footing, warm him up gently and wait for the unwanted speed to happen. My recommendation is to simply put him to work when he increases his speed without being asked to. With quiet hands, guide him in a tight circle, a few times around, and then straighten him on the fence again on a loose rein, keeping him working. If he chooses to speed again, put him back to work making circles. It is harder work to circle. When he sees the value in simply going down the fence guided by your gentle hands, he will soon figure out what is acceptable and what creates more work.

06/11/2024: About your methods of training horses, you question some traditional methods, for example the use of the whip, but still it’s the main item in horse shops. You’ve been a part of a horse market in the world for long, how is it changing?

Monty’s Answer: It’s changing, but certainly not enough to suit me. I am 88, and I would like it to speed up a lot. The production of pain administered by a human being to a flight animal is one of the least intelligent actions the human race has ever utilized. Horses seek a safe place. When we cause them pain, the flight animal sees it as an unsafe place. The word ‘break’ comes clearly into this picture because if you produce enough pain, you can cause the flight animal to give up, to be broken, to follow instructions not because they want to but because they are afraid not to. This to me is a pathetic action caused by people who simply haven’t thought this process through.



06/05/2024: I have a Dartmoor four year old, broken in and going nicely apart from when hacking out with others she kicks anything that comes behind her. Also in the outdoor school she backs up to kick others that are near her. How can I cure this?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. The behavior you describe is as natural as any equine behavior could be, especially for a female. It is very difficult to train away natural protective behavior. It is not a matter of training but it is a situation that needs to be managed with care. One must pay particular attention to reducing those movements that bring on this activity. Attempt at all times to keep the horse from those situations which encourage this behavior.

05/29/2024: My horse lives out in a very large camp (+-50Ha) with five other horses. They are very easy to ‘catch’ and ride because of practicing ‘Join-Up’. I do most of my riding in the field, alone for about two hours three times a week. I DO have a problem though, when trying to mount from a mounting block SUCH AS AN ANTHILL in the field. He won’t stand whilst trying to mount from a mounting block, but rather swings his behind away from me, THEN stands. I thought of placing a long rein on the off side, around his body, length-wise around and behind his tail and holding that rein securely, then try and mount but he is too ‘cute’ for that. Nothing seems to work. I have tried ‘patience’…but haven’t wanted to get him UPSET from my persistence, but rather lengthen my stirrup leather on the near side and mount like that. Can you advise please?

• Monty’s Answer:* Your horse should stand for you to mount without moving one foot. He should remain standing until you are comfortably in the saddle and then he should rein back for the first two steps, stand again and then walk when asked. This can be done and it can be done rather easily once you know the technique. I have a DVD called Fix-Up and it will give you ‘standing to mount’ along with several other remedial problems (see also ‘Standing Still’ lesson here in the Equus Online Uni).

You should be aware that failing to stand for mounting is the number one producer of serious injury worldwide. The Dually Halter is the piece of equipment that I recommend to execute the lesson on the DVD. Your horse should stand whether it’s for a mounting block or to mount from the ground. One should be sure that you have a correct fit on the saddle and that your horse is getting no pain from the mounting process. Fully schooled to the Dually Halter one should discipline the horse with the Dually anytime there is the slightest movement. If you follow the procedures that I have outlined your problems are over.

05/22/2024: I have two young horses turning five and they are both afraid of water and being bathed. I have avoided trying to force water on them and wonder what you do to get them to the point of bathing without fear. I am afraid of making them more nervous than they already are so I haven’t done a lot at this point. What is your method for this?

Monty’s Answer: I answer this question quite often. I tell people that if they have a spare stall that they don’t mind getting wet put a horse in there and you get a stool or a table so you can reach over the wall. You have a pistol grip on the hose and you start out with a fine mist remembering that a horse can stand out in the rain without any problem. It seems to be just when the water hisses from the hose under pressure.

The point here is to show the horse that there is no pain connected to the water from the hose. In a very short period of time the horse will stand for a fog shower. After that you can begin to put a bit more direct stream on your horse. When he will stand rather comfortably for this procedure, then you can move on to the next step.

My recommendation for a second step in this process is to slightly open the door, put the pistol grip through it and begin to spray the floor all around the horse. Gradually work up the legs and onto the body as he becomes relaxed with the process. If you chose a good hot day your horse will probably love it in a matter of 10 minutes or so.

05/15/24: My name is Caroline and I have just joined Equus Online University and find I cannot devour the information fast enough. I have been hungry for this information for 30 years! I love it so. The ability to learn this from you brings tears to my eyes and joy to my heart as no one else in my equine experience has done.

I realize though, even as you have found, the intellectual/visual knowledge does not always equate with the practical application. This discovery caused me much dismay yesterday when attempting your Join-Up techniques with my 10yo 16.2hh WBxTB mare, in a large paddock (with overgrown apple orchard in the center).

She will not be caught without tempting morsels and most definitely not if I carry anything that resembles a halter or lead rein. (I’ve just studied the catching of a horse in a large field as well). So I attempted to do Join-Up without the usual aids and she galloped in any direction opposite to me as I followed her, for a good 3/4hr until I began to see some of the signs.The first observed signs were the slowing of pace and reducing the distance. Then from afar I witnessed her licking and chewing and lowering her head. She was at a standstill and facing me. From where I was I walked across her axis and turned to 45 degrees with eyes down and relaxed, I think, but she didn’t move towards me. So I walked slowly in arcs towards her. I got really close but she ran off again at a great pace. An hour later I’d still had no more success so I left the field. I was exhausted and so was she.

I was wondering, in this situation would you expect /need the horse to be closer for Join-Up to work to be successful? What would you advise me to do next time. She has a lovely temperament when caught and when I tried follow up in the afternoon she was right there by my shoulder.

Today she continued her walking away but only walking and not far away. I was not intent on making her run away this time. I stood still and she eventually came for the carrots as I chatted to a friend over the fence! This didn’t really constitute Join-Up though? What do you think I’m doing wrong?

Monty’s Answer: EVERYTHING! Stop, think and change virtually everything you have described for me. If I was there with you, I believe I would say “We will not turn her loose in a large area until we have a reasonable Join-Up in an area where we can control her exit sufficiently for her to be no more than 30-40 feet from us when we ask for her to come to us.”

A round pen about 50 feet in diameter is the perfect solution. You may have to visit someone to borrow their pen or you may have to use some panels so as to shrink down the area you are currently using. Your horse is training you to do what she wants you to do and, the way I read it, she is succeeding in every aspect of refusing to be caught.

Study my Join-Up videos. Look at the round pens on the screen. Count the number of strides that the horse uses to negotiate the circle and view the round pens that are used when attempting to educate people on how to achieve a Join-Up in a reasonable fashion. When you get it right it is a simple process to get Join-Up with any and all horses.

I know! There are a lot of people who will say “He should see my horse! He is impossible to catch without food. I have accepted his inability to do Join-Up and I simply carry food with me and get him caught with no trouble at all. Mr. Roberts is a perfectionist and he believes that all of his techniques will work. I say that there are horses that won’t do it!”

These words are from an owner, with thousands of horse owners who would agree with the statement just made. It is not true. I have received hundreds of horses with the same tag line that I just expressed. Each and every one has been dealt with without a failure. Join-Up is part of the language Equus far more than it is with the language Human.

We constantly try to address the hundreds of circumstances such as the one in this answer. Physical damage which leaves the horse unable to execute all normal physical activity is the only aspect that I have walked away from. The balance of the problems that have come to me have been dealt with in the segments we have addressed online.

05/08/2024: Student questions below.

Student: Some horses I work with tend to grab their lead rope in their teeth, at that point can you still correct with the Dually Halter? What is the best way to get a rope out of a horse’s mouth?

Student: I have the same problem with my horse. I gently pull the rope out of her mouth. I don’t think you can school with the rope in the horse’s mouth. From my perspective the halter doesn’t twist correctly. You will only be pulling on the horse’s mouth and possibly hurting or damaging it. I try not to school when the rope is in my horse’s mouth. A smile in the rope helps keep the rope out of my horse’s mouth better. Does your horse grab just the rope or the metal piece too? My horse grabs the metal snap on the side of the halter. I was hoping Monty had some advice on this problem too. My horse loves to chew on everything and I want to know how to discourage that too. If you find anything that works please let me know.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you, for your question. It is quite a complicated one but I will attempt to make it as easily understood as possible. In no way do I ever suggest a method to solve this problem that includes pain. Pain around the mouth is a formula for problems down the road.

What I want to convey to you is that one should organize thoughts which cause your horse to not to want to put the rope in the mouth and this includes the snap. It is a simple process to cause the horse not to want the rope or the snap in her or her mouth.

IT HAS TO TASTE BAD. It may not have anything poisonous or against the wishes of a veterinarian for potential health problems. The ingredients of this material should be read and cleared by your veterinarian. Now to outline the process with recommendations.

I have found that the use of household aromatics along with sprays for human consumption that are less than palatable are acceptable. Both of these substances must be safe. Spray chili is another way to go. It could be a rub on or from a spray can.

Your horse will be the number one judge of whether this rope or the snap is worth chewing on. In all the years that I have done this I have never had a negative for my horse, health wise. I will now explain what I do step-by-step in this process.

I spray the equipment in question away from the horse giving it 3-5 minutes to soak in and dry. When I put this equipment on my horse I step back 6-8 feet and smile. One will be amused by the reaction if you follow my instructions.

There should be a smile in the line and the snap should be reachable by the lips and tongue of your horse. You will see a surprise on your horse’s face and I assure you that if you do this for a week or so this bad habit will cease.

To answer the question about what to do when the rope or snap is already in the horse’s mouth, DO NOT CAUSE PAIN. I put my finger in the corner of the horse’s mouth. Usually the mouth opens and the rope or snap falls out.

If you are afraid to put your finger in the horse’s mouth, use the tail of a wooden spoon. I remember many horses that I did this with and I have to say that it was without failure. The last one was extremely bad and lived in Germany.

05/01/2024: My horse is very cinchy, she starts wiggling immediately when you bend down to get the cinch. When you tighten the cinch she rears up, and if the rope breaks she falls back. I am concerned she is going to hurt herself or me. I know it is from someone traumatizing her prior to me, but how do I fix it? I tried cinching from the other side and that worked for only one day.

Monty’s Answer: The following is my recommendation for dealing with the condition already in place. With your horse in a box stall of at least 12 by 12 feet (4 by 4 meters), put a substantial stable blanket on him, and fasten all of the belts and buckles. Over the blanket in the area of the heart-girth, place an elastic over-girth. I prefer the type with a breastcollar.

These over-girths can be purchased at a good tack shop and are generally about 4 inches (10 cm) in width, and easily stretched by the human hand. Place the breastcollar appropriately, and buckle up the elastic over-girth so it is just touching the skin. Allow your horse a few minutes in the box stall to become accustomed to the over-girth, and then tighten a notch or two so it begins to stretch the elastic material.

This girth is easily expandable and the horse usually does not react to it as violently as he would a less forgiving cinch or girth. You should continue to tighten periodically until you have stretched the girth to snugly encircle the heart-girth area of the horse. It is appropriate to allow him to carry this apparatus around the box stall for up to three or four hours. Usually, within two or three days of this treatment, your horse will accept the elastic over-girth without a cinch-bound response. When your horse is comfortable, you can go to the next step in the process.

Once your horse can take the light, elastic girth relatively snug from the outset of the day, you can remove the blanket and allow the girth to come directly against his skin. Usually, this will not be of great concern to your horse. When this is accepted, initiate a pattern of putting the elastic girth on about one-half hour before the time you intend to saddle your horse.

Most cinch-bound horses will then take the girth or cinch quite comfortably if you tighten gradually over a period of five to ten minutes. If your horse is more severely affected, simply extend the time of each of these procedures until your horse is comfortable. Most cinch-bound horses will be relatively free of this anxiety within a month or so if you are diligent about following these procedures to the letter.

Further thoughts:

• Cinch-bound might be genetically influenced.

• Sensitive skin might play a role in causing a cinch-bound syndrome.

• Cinch-bound horses are usually caused by people.

• Handlers should use clean, appropriate equipment.

• Being in a hurry is often the cause of cinch-bound.

• Use a light, elastic over-girth.

• Follow the corrective procedures to the letter.

Please do not tie up when you saddle your horse. For more help, see my chapter 9 in the From My Hands To Yours textbook for the Pull back horse recommendations and be sure to get my Fix-Up DVD.



04/23/2024: I love my horse and I think my horse loves me. He follows me around already. Do I still need to do Join-Up?

Monty’s Answer: Join-Up is a condition that follows a logical line of communication. It is not a symbol of curiosity or an acceptance factor. It is a piece of completed communication that informs the horse that you are aware of their language and that you understand it. It has far less to do with love than with understanding.

I recommend Join-Up as a communications effort with every horse that I work with. It builds the foundation for an understanding of one another, which in turn results in trust and the earning of that trust.

04/17/2024: Is it beneficial to ride bareback?

Monty’s Answer: The better rider we are, the better chance our horse has to perform the tasks we request. Riding bareback is one very good way to learn to be a better rider. I rode bareback extensively as a child, and feel that it was helpful in training me to be constantly aware of the position of my horse’s body and his movements as he negotiated turns, lead changes and stops.

I am a firm believer that if we are to be a good rider we should learn to ride bareback and with a saddle. I further believe that we should at least know the basic principles for the correct riding of as many saddles as possible, Western, English hunt seat, dressage, park seat, Australian stock saddle or even an Argentinean gaucho saddle.

Knowledge is something none of us can have enough of; I even recommend that young riders should use a bareback pad at some stage in their education, as it is quite helpful for leg position.



04/10/2024: I am writing to ask about different techniques that could be useful in helping a filly that I train for Mrs. Charlotte Weber (Live Oak Stud). She is fine outside (trains out of a paddock) and under tack, but is claustrophobic in the stall, weaving and walking non-stop. We have tried different stalls, which provide different views, but nothing has worked. I do know that her dam is the same way and am afraid it may be a learned behavior or just in her DNA. I am not asking for free advice from Mr. Roberts and would be happy to pay for any recommendations he feels could help.

Monty’s Answer: The claustrophobic horse is the owner of a neurological system that is sensitive to anything they consider potentially dangerous. Equus Caballus is typically a flight animal with distinct tendencies to flee whenever there is discomfort from potentially dangerous objects or live animals perceived as dangerous.

My work with tens of thousands of Thoroughbred racehorses has caused me to help ultra sensitive horses. I must admit that my studies regarding wild deer has caused me to alter the typical thoughts where training domestic horses is concerned. The horse that walks the stall and kicks the walls digs holes in the floor or weaves is the type of animal that I am going to describe in answering this question. I have seen many trainers whip a horse for acting out in these areas I describe. I don’t believe I’ve seen one that responded positively to pain producing measures.

The measures I’ve found most successful fall under the heading of “friendly partners” most of which are four legged. I have used sheep, ponies, other horses, goats, and even birds. It should be said that my use of sheep and goats require measures achieving safety for the animals involved. The sheep and goats should be used singularly and the first few days require a small cage or pen in the corner of a box stall. This pen should be made of a material that is not easily broken by a kicking horse. The material should be of a nature that the horse could not easily break by kicking it. One should observe the behavior of both animals, horse and the small animal.

When the horse chooses to walk toward the pen, smell the animal and then stand close to that part of the enclosure, then taking the pen away should produce a partnership that calms the equine neurological system. I have used this on dozens of horses with virtually no failures at all. The stories that come back to me from owners would indicate to me that when this method is successful it produces story after story of these two animals and their ability to get along with one another.

In addition to the sheep, goats and ponies, I have a story to tell you that I consider to be one of the rarest choices I have ever seen made to calm an ultra nervous horse in his stable. I was sitting in feed room at Del Mar Race Track and was working on notes for a different project. I watched an extremely nervous horse being prepared for a morning workout.

When the horse returned from the workout he was neighing and patting his feet on the ground and as soon as he was released in his stall, he was running in his stall. Suddenly I noticed that a groom came out of a feed room near me holding a bird cage in his hand. The bird was a beautiful parrot and was calling out as if he was frightened of something. I watched as the groom hung the cage on a hook just outside the stable door of the screaming colt. Instantly the calling out stopped from each of the animals I described to you.

The horse began to rub his nose on the cage surface and the bird rubbed his head just inside the area where the horse was rubbing. I asked many questions of the team only to find that the bird had to be on the van or the airplane that the horse used to travel from one place to another. They described injuries that had occurred before this relationship was established. It turns out that this horse was very successful and raced in New York, Florida, Kentucky and California each of the two years that I tracked his career. “Friendship” was the answer.

04/03/2024: Your demonstrations are performed in front of thousands of people. They are informative and entertaining. What do you say to the skeptics that state no real lasting training success was achieved during the evening?

Monty’s Answer: I say they are absolutely right. My evening is designed to educate. If owners return to their homes and use the same techniques with their horses that they used before, there will be no lasting effect of the training. What I do in my demonstrations is bring to the people an alternative to violent training. I show them that it works, and it works very quickly. It is the responsibility of the horsemen in the audience to learn from my example and then take it back to their horses, if they expect it to be lasting or effective.

I ask German horsemen to remember these names: Lomitas, Quebrada, Risen Raven, Lavirco, Macanal, Spirit of Eagles, Royal Dubai and Silvano. These eight horses won eleven major championships and three Horse of the Year titles in the years that I have been associated with Gestüt Fährhof, Bremen. I influenced each of their lives, and I am very proud of their achievements. No breeder or owner has accomplished exactly what this group has. I suppose the skeptic should ask these horses for the answer to the question, “do the concepts of Monty Roberts work?”

03/27/2024: How do you cure a herd bound horse?

Monty’s Answer: Easy. You separate them… While that is too simple of an answer, it’s basically what you do. If your horse panics when his buddy horses leave the property without him, it is a herd bound horse and needs to be de-bonded.

A horse that goes crazy when its companion(s) are away is a danger to itself, others and property. Separating your horses gives them the opportunity to learn they can survive by themselves. If you have a small property and separation is not possible in your circumstance, you have another option.

Borrow a friend’s horse. Have an agreeable friend ‘trade’ animals with you for a short period of time. You take care of their horse while they take care of yours temporarily. Let your horse spend some time in a different location.

Simply shift your horse(s) around for a while. The de-bonding process will occur over a relatively short period of time. From a safety perspective, it is a necessary thing to do.

03/20/2024: I agree with the idea that whether working with animals or children you must first gain their trust before leadership. However, my question is, how do you know your horse trusts you and how do you gain that trust?

Monty’s Answer: If you were to stop and reflect on your own life, you would find that there are some people with whom you are familiar and who you trust. On the other hand, you will identify those who you find less than trustworthy. I suggest that you begin to observe your own behavior as you interact with these two kinds of acquaintances.

It is probable that you will smile more when you are with someone you trust. It is likely that your body language will reflect relaxation and comfort to a far greater degree than when you are with people you don’t trust. Conversely, when you are with someone you are skeptical about, you will tend to be rigid and a bit more protective of yourself.

When an untrustworthy person walks about during a conversation, be aware of what you are doing during the course of this interaction. I suggest that when you trust the person, you will comfortably walk to be closer to them, you will be relaxed as you converse with the confidence that you are safe. When you are unsure of someone, you will tend to stand, not walk relaxed, but in fact protect yourself by remaining a safe distance.

Now watch your horse. When he wants to be with you, he trusts you. When he walks with you with his head low and his neck relaxed, he regards you as a friend. When you see him lick and chew as he is walking along with you, you can log this as a great sign of trust. All of these observations are art forms and have no particular rules by which we can judge them.

Given these facts, it is certainly true that you will find it obvious when your horse trusts you, and just as obvious when he doesn’t. Practice these concepts, not only with your horses, but with your family and friends and even your dog or cat. You will find these exercises to be quite helpful in all walks of life.

03/13/2024: I am having farrier problems with my Off The Track Thoroughbred. I don’t want to sedate her any longer but now under sedation she is still a problem, help! My vet is also the farrier.

Monty’s Answer: This question does not address the measures attempted in correcting it. I would want to know do you have and have you learned to use the corrective measures of the Dually Halter? It occurs to me that your problem has not addressed the first measure I would use in this scenario. The Dually Halter I designed to get smaller and less comfortable when the behavior of the horse is negative. Conversely the halter gets bigger and more comfortable when the horse behaves.

I have dealt with people who use chains and instruments in the mouth of these horses that cause sharp pain during the process of correction. Horses are positive thigmotaxic and sharp pain tends to encourage them to go into and fight off things that cause this sharp pain. Using the Dually halter and studying the methods I suggest will correct these horses and I have proven that it works virtually every time.

There is ample footage available in this Uni, but to bring you a hint of what I do with the Dually Halter under these circumstances, one does not need a farrier because many qualified persons handling the legs of this horse will be a farrier in the mind of the horse involved. The handler of the Dually Halter will firmly cause the horse to back up when negative actions are observed.

Immediately after backing 10-20 feet the horse will be asked to move forward 10-20 feet and then the lead will be relaxed so that the horse finds this to be the comfortable position and he will very soon begin to seek the place where the Dually Halter does not school him and will tend to eliminate negative behavior when the lead line is lengthened and relaxation occurs. I have used these method for many decades now and have experienced significant improvement in a matter of a few days.

03/06/2024: It would be interesting to have a lesson discussing why Monty uses a rope instead of the typical whip when working with horses. Is it because the whip is like an extension of your arm, therefore too much movements are made while educating a horse? The rope, once thrown, just lies there with no more ‘’life’’ which is less threatening to the horse. But that is just me.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. First I should say that I don’t use a rope. I use a flat nylon line, 30 feet long. This line would not cause pain even if it unintentionally struck the horse in some way. My lines are weighted on the end by about 2 feet of double line thickness. Alternately, virtually every whip is designed to be painful when the end of it strikes the horse.

Many people who use the whip will tell me that they don’t ever intentionally whip the horse with these painful braided string like tips to them. Virtually every whip designed was originally a method of controlling speed and direction of horses pulling carriages or other trailing farm implements.

We produce our lines in pairs so that they can be used one at a time or for guiding the horse as if they were reins to control stop and go, speed and direction. We call this long lining and we do it for three to five training sessions of all of the horses that we start for riding. To my way of thinking the whip is regarded by the horse as an instrument causing pain. The soft lines tend to cause very little fear.

02/28/2024: Many years ago, we had the privilege of meeting you when you came to Calgary Alberta, Canada. Your way of working with horses changed everything we knew and did working with horses and for us was the only way to build a partnership with our horses. Several years after that meeting, while working with our three year old mare she did something she had never done, she threw my husband twice within 10 minutes.This gave me a really good scare and has left me with far less confidence when it comes to riding.

Now several years later, we have rescued a beautiful Appaloosa mare who is now four. We were very successful in Join-Up and building trust. We have had several lessons with an excellent trainer who fondly refers to her as Saucy Trixie, and she was given several weeks in training with his group. He has really been the only one up on her and she has done well.

I have no problem doing ground work with her and we have a great connection, however it is now time to progress to us riding her and to be honest I am apprehensive and anxious over that next step. How something that didn’t even happen to me so many years ago has affected me this way is unsettling. What can I do to change this? If I can’t get past this I am afraid I will never ride her. Any ideas or suggestions?

Monty’s Answer: Your question is one perfectly designed to help a huge percentage of future horse people. Please do not feel apprehensive or inferior because of your concerns. The thoughts that you have regarding what you observe are healthy. It is a fact that they are more healthy than those individuals who would simply march on with an attitude of being brave and fearing nothing. It is okay to face the reality of the incident that you witnessed, and thank God it wasn’t you that was at the center of the event.

It is my advice to any person who chooses to ride a horse that if one doesn’t feel safe riding a particular horse, you’re probably not. So much about staying safe on a horse is how you feel inside yourself. The person who feels the need to be tense is far more likely to have a negative experience than the person who rides with a sense of comfort and relaxation. I tell my students that horses are animals of synchrony. I can prove it’s true that horses synchronize with those near them.

My overall advice to someone posing the good question you have asked is to surround yourself with those who are knowledgeable. Choose a mentor with a strong reputation for experience over a sustained period of time. Listen to that mentor and follow well thought out instructions. Learn as much as you can on your own about what is safe and what is likely not to be safe. There are more opportunities for learning today than there has ever been since humans began to ride horses.

Remember all that is available to you from my organization. From My Hands to Yours, the Equus Online University and so many other forms of information that my organization is attempting to bring to the world of horsemanship. Violence is not the answer, so it is important that you use every opportunity possible to learn about yourself, your horse and the combination of both. Seeing another professional riding your horse under many situations should prove to you whether or not your horse is completely safe.

02/21/2024: Good morning! I am a member of the Equus Online University, and I have been using your techniques for the past 20 years! I have quite a few DVDs that I still go back and watch! I run a therapeutic horseback riding program for kids and adults with disabilities. All of our horses go through groundwork training and mounted training using your techniques before they enter the program.

I have one horse that we are struggling with. We’ve had her since she was born, and she’s never had any bad experiences other than working with the kids with disabilities (which can be stressful for horses!). She has gotten to the point over the past year where every time someone goes to mount she pins her ears, and she continues to pin her ears until they are on. Once they are on, she calms down. I have pulled her from the Therapeutic program and started working with her individually for the past three months. We started over with “join up “ and went through the process. When I step up on the mounting block, she starts pinning her ears and shaking her head and continues to pin her ears while I get on.

I’ve taken a step back and done a lot of groundwork, a lot of liberty work, and I can even ride her at liberty. However, we are still struggling with the mounting process. She will stand by the mounting block, we also have a mounting ramp that she will willingly walk up to. I’m at a loss for what to do. Our vet has checked her over and can’t find anything that would be causing pain.

I’m happy to schedule a 30 minute session if you have some ideas for us. Thank you for reading this email!

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for such an interesting question. It would help to know the type of saddle and the general activities that this horse was asked to share with human beings.

Obviously, the type of saddle and saddle pad would be critical for me to understand the entire problem which has developed with this horse. There is no doubt in my mind that at least one point in time this mare experienced pain even if it was more psychological than real. I have seen horses develop this mind set with no apparent cause of pain.

It is so critical to achieve the first saddle pad and saddle and even a rider without the suggestion that pain could come from what is usually the wither area even with the best of horsemanship and equipment as well. It would be advantageous to see a video of both the horse and the people who experience this behavior from her. I don’t know what is on her head at the time that the saddling and mounting takes place but that would also be a critical part of the study,

02/14/2024: I can’t seem to find an answer anywhere. It’s a simple question about Join-Up. I know in everything I’ve read from Monty, he talks about doing Join-Up with a horse about 4 times. But is there a specific period of time between Join-Ups? Also, is it possible to do join up with more than 1 person with the same horse? I have a 2.5 yr old quarter horse and I work with her for the most part. But my 2 kids ages 10 & 12 would like to work with her as well as my husband. Can we all do Join-Up with her? Separate occasions/ different days? What do you recommend and is this possible?Thank you so much for all your help. I have loved Monty’s work for over 20 years!

Monty’s Answer: Join-Up is an adventure into the language and the experience of Equus Caballus (the horse). If a lot of people simply try to accomplish Join-Up without much experience in learning the language of the horse, just imagine how confusing it would be to the horse when you think about learning human language. If someone communicates with another human and happens to say go when they mean stop, it would be similar to the horse trying to teach humans how to speak Equus, the language of the horse.

Somebody who works with any horse with the intention to cause the animal to communicate and be understood, they would need at least one human who had studied and really accomplished the learning of the horse’s language.

This does not mean that a family could never cause each member to achieve Equus the language. It does mean however that at least one member would have to learn the language well and assist any other members in getting it right, or very little would be accomplished in a bi-lateral attempt to accomplish their language.

Thank you for your question. It is obvious that more families should read this answer and take it seriously.

2/7/2024: Hello Mr. Monty. My name is Nandi (Loxi), and I’m 15, turning 16 this month. I live in South Africa. I love your training methods, and the ways you work with horses. My parents used to train horses using your Join-Up methods, but circumstances put a stop to that. I love horses, and my dream is to train, retrain, and work with problem horses, and also help people through horses.

Can I start training horses at my age? Or should I be older? I truly hope and pray I can. And I wanted to ask if you have any advice for me, for someone who use to work with horses, and be fearless around them as a little girl since 2-9 years old. But I lost my confidence working with them, I’m not scared of them, but I’m just so worried of making a mistake, and then messing things (and the horse) up. Do you have any advice for me on that?

I have been watching your instructions/ demonstrations, that I find on your YouTube channel, and hope to join your University soon.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for taking the time to ask this question. At 88, even though I have ridden all my life, I find myself watching more closely the various environments in which I ride. You are not only brave but intelligent to take care under the circumstances you have outlined.

When asked questions along this line, I often suggest that people become far more proficient in the use of the language Equus. There are so many ways you can learn it today. I have attempted to bring it to the world through books, DVDs, courses and to thousands on this website.

Once you are well-versed in the language Equus, you will perceive the horse and its intentions in a far better way. You will read environmental circumstances much more effectively and with each of these conditions in place, you will be a more relaxed and happier rider, at any age.

01/31/2024: I’m 14 years of age and live in Melbourne, Australia. My older sister (18) and I have two lovely horses, Phillip and Effy. I recently read your book ‘The Man Who Listens to Horses’ and I was amazed by all you’ve achieved. Phillip is a 7 year old gelding stock horse with the most beautiful temperament. He’s all round an excellent horse for beginners like me. Just recently Phillip pulled back when we went to untie him and broke the wooden post behind him. We now can’t tie him when tacking up and untacking. I would really appreciate your advice on the matter as we’ve run out of ideas. If you could please get back to me with your opinion that would mean so much to me, my sister and Phillip.

Monty’s Answer: Virtually everyone who has owned a horse has, at some time, experienced an episode where the horse pulls back while tied. Early in the horse’s training, if he pulls back and everything is strong enough to withstand the pressure without breaking, your horse will generally imprint in his brain that pulling back is not good.

Should your horse pull back and cause something to break free in the process, you are likely to have a phobia set in where the horse feels compelled to pull and break anything he is tied with. Two or three of these episodes will virtually assure you of a pull-back horse. The into-pressure phenomenon takes over in this case, and you can watch your horse glaze over, eyes tending to roll high in his head, and then with utter determination he will pull with all his might.

The phobic pull-back horse can break what a normal horse could not come close to breaking. He will crouch his body low and strain with all four legs in the ground to pull with every ounce of his power. If something breaks at this point, it is very likely that he will shoot over backward and often injure himself seriously. When this occurs, it simply exacerbates the problem as it further convinces the horse that he has to break his tie.

Pulling back can obviously occur any time the horse is tied; however, certain activities are more likely than others to evoke it. When the horse is standing tied with comfortable, proper-fitting equipment in a quiet location, the potential for pulling back would be at the lower end of the spectrum.

The condition that is most likely to promote it is when the handler opens the rear portion of a trailer before untying the horse.

This is a red-letter mistake. The confinement, footing and sound all combine to create an extremely dangerous environment for your horse. In general, horses that fly out of the trailer can easily produce injuries to people or animals outside as well as to themselves. In addition to untying the horse before opening the trailer, never tie a horse without securely closing the door behind him first.

Bridling or saddling the horse while tied increases the potential for pulling back. I am often presented with horses at my demonstrations that are frightened about being bridled or saddled. Many times this stems from an incident of pulling back while these procedures were attempted, so I recommend that when bridling and saddling your horse, you control him with your hands rather than tying him.

Horses that pull back are often brought to me at Flag Is Up Farms. I suggest that the person who executes the procedures be a professional trainer, or an extremely competent horse handler. I think it is most productive to suggest you study my full lesson in my From My Hands to Yours textbook where I explain to you exactly what I recommend and allow you to approximate my procedures as close as your facility will allow.

01/24/2024: Can I do a bad Join-Up and destroy my horse while I am trying to learn the concepts?

Monty’s Answer: Traditional ways can ruin horses, so don’t worry about trying to perfect your Join-Up. We all make mistakes everyday. I start off every day making mistakes of some sort. I can’t find my glasses or I misplace something. I make mistakes; we all make mistakes. Grievous mistakes are more difficult to throw away but if you have been a traditionalist don’t blame yourself for using traditional measures.

My father forced me to do things his way. I was beaten half to death if I didn’t, so I did it. That is what gave me the opportunity to say that I had tried it both ways. I could ask, “Have you tried it my way? No? And you don’t want to?”

Okay, then I would say “If I’ve tried it both ways and you’ve only tried it one way, you know less than I do about the whole situation.” That’s a fair assumption at least. The traditionalist doesn’t know my way and I do know his way.

I don’t want my students to beat themselves up over it. To continue to let it eat at you is counter productive. Does it bother me? Of course, but throwing it away becomes easier every time you succeed at throwing it away.

I have a strong feeling that nobody who’s acted in the traditional way sat down and thought that it was really what they wanted to do. Given a choice and there was a better way, I am sure they would re-think it. They train that way because it’s a peer influence. There’s no question. It’s influenced by those around us and we do what other people do.

When I think of the mistakes I made with Brownie! How he ever won a championship, I’ll never know. The only reason he won championship after championship for me is because he competed with horses that were treated the same way. Maybe I was learning to treat him better all along the way and he was born a champion so he stayed a champion and stayed in front of a bad pack. We likely wouldn’t win much today because horses are better, people are better, and things have moved on.

01/17/2024: I am a 50-year-old rider who recently got back into horses after a long break while raising children as a single mother. I now have two young geldings (2 & 3 years old) who I am working with and starting myself, with the help of a very experienced friend. My husband is very new to horses and wants to be able to ride with me one day. I am considering getting an older, dead-broke horse for the husband to learn on, and to help with training the youngsters (ponying, etc.). Do you think an older, experienced horse can help with the training of young ones?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. There has been significant study of “the visual learned response” by universities around the world. On balance, most of these studies have concluded that there is very little learned response, one horse to the other. I have read and personally seen some of these science trials conducted for this purpose. I still have strong beliefs that the influence of one horse upon the other is a significant part of the process of education experienced by equine individuals.

The tests that I have done, for instance with horses born deaf, clearly suggest that they know their language and they respond to the visual gestures very effectively. I have also tested horses born blind which later have had surgeries allowing them to see. The fact is that these horses know very little about the language Equus. To me this proves at least two factors rather conclusively. First, the language is silent and secondly horses learn from one another.

One only has to visit an Amish community to realize that their training techniques dating back hundreds of years include the use of a trained horse to guide the younger horse through certain activities like pulling carriages or executing activities around a farm environment. The Amish use no machinery so the horse is still a tractor, a bus, a taxi cab and even a water pump in many cases. It is also smart to put a “green” husband on a “dead broke” older horse.

1/10/2024: My husband would like to know if there is such a thing as a “coldback horse”. In other words, one that you have to lunge before each ride. We think not, but there are others who tell us yes. Robert says he’ll take your word before anyone else’s.

Monty’s Answer: The “coldback horse” is a phenomenon generally referred to by horse people whereby the horse tends to want to buck with the saddle or the saddle and rider in the first minutes of any given day. The inference is that when the back is cold the horse wants to buck. When the back warms up, the tendency is to accept the saddle and rider. When assessing this phenomenon, one wants to be very careful not to confuse a physical problem with a psychological problem.

Many coldback horses will generally outgrow it and resolve the problem pretty much on their own. One should be careful to exercise moderately before mounting. If we are dealing with a physical problem, the odds are that it will not resolve itself without dealing with the physical malady before expecting a resolution to what we term the coldback problem. At this point in time, I know of no other diagnostic solution than to X-ray the dorsal processes of the spinal column.

Once the X-ray study is completed, the competent vet will diagnose normality or abnormality of the dorsal processes, their spacing and their alignment. Should there be the problem of misalignment, it is likely that the vet will determine it to be ‘Kissing Spine’. I am discovering that many horses who have heretofore been termed buckers or horses with many negative labels are actually horses with anatomical abnormalities that can cause extreme pain with the weight of a rider. One should be sure to investigate the potential for physical problems before labeling the horse as having psychological problems.

What can you do to help this horse? The vet might use an anti-inflammatory between the dorsals or even the removal of some processes with no ill effect with the horse being able to carry the saddle and rider.

1/3/2024: I am afraid of catching my horse in the field. What should I do?

Monty’s Answer: If you are afraid to go catch a horse in the field, then do not do it. A horse can sense fear and has the potential to get you into a lot of trouble. Learn how to move around a horse and get an older, trained horse to work with before you take any chances out in the field. Once you can move around a horse well and you know where he is going, you’ll be more comfortable going and catching your horse. Learn the Language of Equus and study Catching Horses, which are chapters in my textbook titled From My Hands To Yours. Watching the series on Catching Your Horse in the Pasture on my Online University will also be beneficial.

12/27/2023: I just finished watching the five-part series on catching your horse in the pasture. It was wonderful! Thank you! My nagging question is this: What about catching your horse in a pasture where the other horses kick or bite at one another? I have this problem frequently with my mare. She comes to me just fine but will often be chased off by another horse. She used to come when I called her but there was a gelding who would herd her away from me. She would persist in trying to come to me and one time he grabbed her back with his teeth and caused a long wound. One lady I know had a hoof barely miss her head when a horse kicked at the horse she had just caught. My solution to this is to chase the other horses away by swinging my rope at them. Can you teach me a better way? (submitted from the Equus Online University)

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. It is gratifying to hear that people are watching and learning from our Equus Online University. I too thought that the pasture catching series was a good one. Many people question me regarding this subject as I travel the world. Your question is far more about husbandry and dealing with the social behavior of horses than it is about catching your horse in the field. It is our responsibility to create an environment for our horses that is appropriate for them. It is never acceptable to have horses in the same field that are consistently doing the things you have out lined here. If they respond to one another in this fashion, we must make a change.

With today’s technology, there are some very easy and inexpensive ways to separate horses so that this behavior is less likely to occur. In our series you could see that the horses in the field got along with one another fairly well. One must achieve a situation where that sort of behavior is typical and not the chaotic behavior that you describe in your question. This is not safe for humans or horses. The use of a solar unit to activate a tape will create a fence that is quite effective. These mechanisms can be purchased for very little money. You generally can buy them at a local feed outlet or tack supply. They are also easy to install and are now visible globally.

One must be sensitive to the sexual makeup of the field. Your question indicates the presence of mares and geldings together. One should also be aware of the elements of introducing horses to one another in the field. It takes a bit of time to allow horses to accept a new entry. The solar tape will assist you in this effort. One should observe the horses closely while divided by the tape and only allow them to come together when they are clearly accepting the presence of each of the new arrivals. I hope that you continue to catch your horses well, but that you also learn how to create a situation where they get along better than what was going on in your question.

12/290/2023: I am going to be working with an older horse that has done 50-mile endurance rides. The horse moves out well on the trail. The problem? It takes two people to saddle up this horse. Anytime the saddle girth is tightened the horse moves, foams at the mouth, and I was told just about fell over.

Also, this is the first time I have heard of a horse that does not like to be groomed / brushed. The owner was using a Wintec Saddle that weighed about 12 lbs and changed to a fancy endurance saddle that weighs 22 lbs. She has had the horse checked for sarcoids under the skin by the vet, had a massage therapist out, and well, now I am next. I understand Join-Up and she does have a round pen.

Additionally while attempting to lunge this horse, the horse turned and knocked the owner down. Is re-schooling starting with Join-Up, basic ground manners, and moving on to lunging in a controlled manner appropriate for this horse? I don’t understand all the drama this horse is demonstrating when having the saddle girth tightened. I am thinking this horse may have never really been trained with regard to being handled from the ground. Any ideas or suggestions greatly appreciated!

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your inquiry regarding the endurance horse. Wow! We need to go to work here as this sounds like a real challenge. One must remember that I am responding without physically seeing the horse and testing these responses. It is true, however, that you have described these behavioral patterns very well. At first I was convinced that we had a simple cinch-bound horse and I’m not convinced that we don’t. Then I came upon that silly word “brushed.”

When I read the word brushed, my mind went pinging across the sky and landed on skin sensitivity. It is rather coincidental that an endurance horse with skin sensitivity would be brought to me at this time. I am currently working with a certain Arab gentleman with a lot of endurance horses, and we are dealing with skin sensitivity. There is no question that riding for prolonged periods of time, often in the heat, increases the chances for skin sensitivity. What a coincidence!

An easy recommendation to make is that all surfaces that come in contact with the horse’s body should be made of natural fibers. It sounds to me as though the skin of this horse is on fire. Often this is brought about when man-made fibers interfere with the magnetic field of the horse’s skin. The time, the friction and the heat all combine to create an inflammatory process that can be overwhelming. The girth and particularly the saddle pad must be made up of natural fibers.

I have been working with a Canadian company for four years now to create the perfect saddle pad. The contact surfaces are of merino wool, the highest quality wool on earth. While there are wool cinches, one can easily cover the entire cinch with natural lamb wool skin. One can access Cavallo pads on www.cavallo-inc.com.

While I can’t be certain that there is a condition of inflamed skin, the behavior of this horse certainly makes a case for it. If there is a component whereby “cinch-bound” is a factor, then there is an entire chapter on that subject in my book, From My Hands to Yours. It is true, however, that I keep coming back to the word “brushed,” which speaks to a condition far different than cinch-bound.

Please remain in touch with us as I would very much like to follow this one through and assist wherever possible. I highly recommend the book From My Hands to Yours as it will inform you of my strong opinion against single-line lunging. Thank you for your well thought out question.

12/13/2023: Firstly, thank you for the work you and Pat do to bring peace to this time and space. I notice. I have recently purchased a 8-year-old paint who is well trained and willing to please. He is calling me to be the leader. Join-Up seems to be good but I envision a bomb-proof horse who absolutely trusts I am there for him. It has been 17 years since I worked with horses and my teaching were mostly about “power over”. This was the only way I thought I could survive my childhood at the time. I have since had a child who is now five. My most accurate teacher and guide to becoming a clear, loving and conscious parent is this horse. I am struggling with timing. I trust that my daughter chose me and yes I make mistakes… I explain everything and am unclear sometimes with her but how will my horse perceive my awkward and sometimes long learning curve? I am so apposed to violence that I a bit hyper vigilant. I am trying to sort out what is force and what is clear communication with the horse. Any insights? The context is that I live in the city and have a limited budget for equipment and want to make the most of our time and energy together. I work with him 4 to 6 hours per week. I have a Dually halter and a lot of love and compassion.

Monty’s Answer: It seems clear to me that you will quickly understand when I say that this question is fraught with potential pitfalls and misunderstandings where my answer is concerned. I appreciate that you have a question and that means that I should have an answer. That being said, I would like you to understand that there is a chance that the next person would ask the question and notify me that they only have two hours per week and the next one, one hour and then maybe even 30 minutes. Let me be clear that there is no substitute for quality time when training a horse. Problems can occur, or fail to be alleviated, if very little time is devoted to the subject at hand.

With this admonition in place, I am going to do the best I can to guide you through these issues using the scant information of your question but attempting to be as clearly “on point” as possible. Force is a term that is extremely subjective. I have met people who believe that the use of a bit and bridle is force. I have sat in meetings with people who believe that the use of fences is a form of force. These same people would strongly criticize my Dually halter. Clearly to take away the fences would cause thousands of deaths on the highways in a very short period of time. These deaths would not only be loss of horses but whole families of people could be wiped out as well.

One can push this term “force” to any degree they chose because of the subjective nature of the condition itself. My “line in the sand” so to speak is the overt production of pain. Discomfort is a condition that I believe absolutely essential in training horses and interacting with children too. One of the keys in making this judgment is the existence of a bilateral agreement before engaging in the act of creating discomfort in the subject student. It is not comfortable for a child to be kept from television or any form of entertainment for any sustained time. But if that child was told that a certain undesirable behavior would in fact achieve that condition, it is in my opinion, appropriate discipline.

The Dually halter produces a twisting shrinking feeling of discomfort. The rope is soft and no sharp metallic objects are used to produce pain. I believe this halter to be a tool which saves 1000s of horses from feeling the sting of whips or the piercing pain of a chain over the nose or a Chifney bit in the mouth. It is my opinion that it is incumbent upon every horseman to learn the language of the horse. Once that is accomplished than a logical set of non-violent procedures can be put into place so that remedial behavior is not produced and bad habits can be overcome. I say sit down, smile and think of ways to accomplish the given task while living within the parameters of the language Equus.

12/6/2023: Monty, what are your hopes for the new year?

Monty’s Answer: When you ask this question you are playing the role of a reasonably normal human individual. I fully recognize myself as utterly abnormal in that I never know whether it’s Wednesday or Sunday.

Christmas is a special time for my family and me. We try to have me home for Christmas and so far we’ve been successful. Christmas, however is to celebrate a birthday and that is one important day. I have very little concern for the rest of the holidays on the calendar. I don’t need them near as much as my horses and students need me. I am happy with that.

What I would like for the New Year is communication from people who have chosen to learn more from the horses through me and my concepts of training. This would please me more than anything I can imagine as I firmly believe that it will enhance the chances for people globally to move closer to violence-free training.

11/29/2023: My horse is never hard to catch, or overly nervous, but he snorts; a sound I have NEVER heard from a gelding. We have all kinds of wildlife around the farm. Sometimes we ride in a group and he sounds off and gathers all riders’ attention. What is he trying to say?

Monty’s Answer: I have a very strong idea of what he is trying to say. I believe that I covered this subject in my textbook From My Hands To Yours. On the chance that you read that book finding that it was not included, I will answer it here.

Horses have essentially the same senses as we humans; sight, taste, touch, hearing and smell. The act of smelling is to literally inhale particles of a given substance. We pass those particles over what is known as the olfactory plate. These microscopic portions of the substance involved, strike the plate giving off the essence of the substance involved.

Once the particles come in contact with the olfactory plate, then our brain kicks in to determine what the substance actually is. We can certainly identify such pungent substances as lemon, vinegar, and many foods that we have come to know. Horses conduct the same test as human beings in this area of olfactory exploration.

Horses have an ability to smell many times greater than that of a human being. While they may be less sensitive than a bloodhound it remains absolutely incredible how sensitive a horse’s sense of smell really is. We humans find it difficult to imagine the awesome abilities of certain animals to smell with sensitivity unimaginable in our world.

When a horse senses danger, there is a tendency for them to clear off the olfactory plate as it may be coated with several layers of smells. One of the processes of accomplishing this task is to blow air across the olfactory plate in such a way that it produces a snorting sound. Some horses are louder and more expressive in this tendency. Usually the wilder they are, the louder they are.

The aura of particles that are secreted from the biological realm of reproductive activity are sometimes met with the act of a horse curling the upper lip up and blowing through the nose, clearing out the olfactory system. While this is essentially for the same purpose, the fear of confronting a predator will usually get you the snort and not the lip curling.

It is probably fair to say that when a horse snorts he is saying “I need to get to know that smell better. I must learn who has produced that smell. It seems like a predator to me and I must investigate thoroughly before allowing this individual to get any closer.”

11/22/2023: Hi Monty, wish I could stop my Shetland napping walking from his field, along the road or track, and then when turning back towards his field along the road or track, napping again. What can I do?

Monty’s Answer: Refusing to go forward is called balking, napping, or jibing. I have found that it occurs largely because of pain caused by athletic injury, wear and tear, an accident or misfitting tack or harness. Before dealing with balking through techniques I describe here, you should take great care to eliminate the potential for physical pain as the cause of the undesirable behavior. It should be noted that the problem may have been fostered through physical pain that is no longer present. The pain, however, could have been the catalyst to the development of the ­remedial problem. Once the trainer has concluded that the horse is currently free of physical ailments, he can go on with the training procedures outlined in this section.

On my Equus Online University is an important lesson called Walter-Won’t-Go-Forward that outlines every step I employ in the procedure to assist a healthy horse to become more willing to go forward. Many issues can be created with a nappy horse such as rearing and bolting. In order to be safe, I ask you to carefully watch every step I take to be fair and firm with Walter-Won’t-Go-Forward. The lessons are in a series and you should re-watch those areas you feel may need extra attention for your particular needs. All of these procedures are also outlined in my textbook, From My Hands to Yours with illustrations.

I do use some extrinsic training equipment for this issue. The Giddy-Up rope, a length of thick cotton braided rope that can be swung back and forth behind the rider’s leg, introduces movement to the peripheral vision of the horse. This movement will be perceived by the horse to be dangerous and yet no pain comes of it. The horse is likely to advance quickly, moving away from the perceived intruder. The rider should be quick to praise the horse for moving forward and take great care to not require significant ­effort in the early stages. Too much work will reintroduce an unwilling attitude on the part of your horse. Very gradually increase the workload until your horse has regained con­fidence and enjoys the chosen discipline.

The rider should be diligent and watch for a positive response. The instant forward motion is achieved, the rider should cease to swing the Giddy-Up rope, and stroke the neck of the horse in congratulation. The rider might use clucking or chirping sounds during the use of the Giddy-Up rope to add to its effectiveness. By sending both visual and auditory cues, you are likely to achieve the desired result.

It is extremely important for any horseman to be reasonable in his demands where workload is concerned; you must never demand from a horse to the extent that you ­discourage his generosity. There is virtually no way to clearly outline here what is reasonable or unreasonable. It is, however, important that horse owners seek advice of professionals about the extent of the workload. There are horses who can handle a heavy workload, and then there are those who are a great deal more fragile. We must be diligent to watch for the signs of discontent when making demands on the energy reserves of our horses.


11/15/2023: Hello Monty, I have a 39-month-old Clydesdale gelding, his name is Monty, I have not had a horse before, but have always been drawn to heavy horses at shows in the UK. Friends of mine have Clydesdales and came first in the ridden section of the world Clydesdale show in Aberdeen last year. They put me in touch with Galcantray and I bought Monty as a yearling.

We have done well at the shows over the last two years and I have been following your courses for in hand, trailer loading, Join-Up, lunging, coming to the mounting block etc.

I have ridden him once n the sand school attached to a line, practicing walk and stop and change reign, it was a successful lesson. The instructor suggested some one more experienced than I ride him into a trot, the livery yard owner did this without a line and he threw her, running back to me. She did get back on and we did some walk and stop on the line and he was ok.

I’ve not been back on him, but been concentrating on long reigning and lunging and he has become pretty steady now on his commands. Also been concentrating on using the head to the left as a dead stop. So bit of advice really as I want to ensure I have reduced the possibility of me being bronked off.

I would not say I am an experienced rider but have some lessons planned with a more experienced horse to take it into a trot, practice my balance and leg aids. It remains my objective to cement the bond by being the person that backs him.

So I think I am about set to continue unless you can advise any other prior steps that I have missed.

Monty’s Answer: You need to ride this horse in a very small area. There should be a substantial fence surrounding this area. It should only be large enough for the horse to trot without stopping in corners. You should ride in this small area long enough to show him this is a comfortable experience.

Then gradually move to larger areas and gradually move upwards until he is comfortable with whatever you choose. You should learn the use of the Giddy-Up rope. There are plenty of videos on my Online University for you to visit and become familiar with the use of the Giddy-Up rope.

Should problems continue, please do a 4-5 minute video and send it through and I will try to extend this recommendation.



11/08/2023: Hi, I’ve been successfully doing Join-Up with my yearling filly for about 5 sessions. We have a great bond of trust, well at least I think we do; as I own the mare and bred her, and imprinted baby ever since she was 45 minutes old.

After a Join-Up session I tried to lead her out the back gate of our round pen, not the main entrance for in and out. This gate enters into a grassy yard area. I thought we would go this way for a reward of grass before going back to her herd pasture area. She will not go through this gate. No matter how many times I schooled her in the Dually halter. She does everything else I ask. Maybe this is a bad idea to lead her out another gate as this is not the primary gate she’s used to for the round pen?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you Miriam for your question. It is interesting to me to study the behavioral patterns of Equus. Going places that they haven’t been before, and seeing things they haven’t before, will always present a challenge to Equus Caballus. What I would do is find an old child’s horse and lead that horse through the gate you’re dealing with, several times. The older horses have seen more and done and will usually cooperate to a greater degree. I don’t know where your horse will be going out to a enclosed area, or an area open and not enclosed.

If the area is enclosed I would simply release your horse into the round pen and then lead your horse into the same round pen. You might want to lead your older horse around until the young one is familiar with your older horse and then simply lead your horse out and let the young one follow. If its enclosed then you’re going to lead back and forth several times. Once your young horse is acquainted with the actions I describe, they are probably going to be OK with it the rest of their lives. If the grassy area is not enclosed, then you will want to enlist a second person and have both horses lead through the same procedure so that you don’t have a loose horse getting injured in open territory.

Thus this has been an easy fix for me for decades. Once you learn the behavioral patterns of this reticent horse, you will be a better trainer for the balance of your days.

11/01/2023: I have signed up for your Introductory Course of Horsemanship in April now, and I would like a bit of information about how the following up after the course works. I am thinking that I want to make myself a career training horses, focusing on behavior. My current “horse situation” is that I have two middle aged Icelandic horses on a small hill farm with no particular facilities for training. I am planning to contact one of the riding schools in the area to inquire about possibilities to use their facilities and also potentially their horses. So what facilities and horses would be necessary/ideal for the work between the introductory course and the intro exam?

Monty’s Answer: Horses are horses and whatever you can do to become closer to them will allow you to better understand them. We are in the process of changing the world with the goal of eliminating of violence in the training process. Anyone who plans to take a course with us will be inundated with information about where to go next with their goals because goals differ geographically and with personal interests. Your two Icelandic horses will likely be good teachers of yours as you study their communication system I call Equus.

You can create circular training areas with bales in the corners of paddocks or other clever means of keeping the energy flowing with your horses while they express themselves while achieving the conversation called Join-Up. The riding schools nearby could supply extra practice ahead of your course in April. Or they may have more difficult horses to work with when you’re ready for that.

In any case, we look forward to seeing you on the premises soon!

10/25/2023: I would like to ask Monty what he considers the best size of herd to make horses feel comfortable. I currently have 3 mares living together who seem a bit anxious and a mixed group of 8 (2 geldings, a mare and foal, a yearling and 3 mares). The group of 8 seem really happy together but I am concerned that when I start feeding next month it may turn into a battleground to get first dibs on the hay! They are out 24/7 and I like them to live as natural a life as possible. I look forward to hearing your thoughts on this as I appreciate all the work you have done observing natural behaviors.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. You have opened the door to a very interesting phenomenon. Numbers in a herd are important, and they can be fairly easily handled by adding to your group in the least difficult way.

Horses don’t mind the size of the individuals in their herd. We have a mini horse on this farm called Poppy. She is only knee high to any family member you have. Poppy is likely too small to change the herd dynamic, but there are ponies up for adoption everywhere. These ponies make good herd members because it is very uncommon to ever have a pony attacking a full sized horse.

Often times the full sized horses will bond with a pony as their special property. Your small herd may be able to take on 2-3 ponies but they eat very little and they require no special costly elements in their life. If one can get them in mid-life, they are often still around when they are 25 or even 30. I have seen them alter the behavior of full sized horses dramatically by adding to a herd of full size horses. Let me know your thoughts on this subject and, if you care to, send me some videos of what happens.

10/18/2023: Join-Up has forever improved my relationship with the 6-year-old wild mustang gelding I bought 5 months ago. However, he is extremely wary of anyone else who has not joined up with him, including my vet and farrier. I’m not able to get his hooves trimmed unless I trim them myself because he bolts across his stall when even calm, gentle people get close, and he will pull the lead rope right through my hands. Do you have suggestions on how to help my gelding through his stranger danger?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for this interesting question. As you probably know mustangs have been a big part of my life. Don’t blame your mustang for doubting and fearing unknown, or known to be painful, human beings. It is true that veterinarians have to cause pain on many occasions to get their job done. Your mustang does not care what the reason is, said simply, “I want no violence in my life”.

You have a sensitive mustang. As I read your question, I conclude that you understand that.

The answer to this question is to create a safe and secure space for your horse when these professionals come to do their work. I realize that there are people who think a chute is unkind. Ask those people what the alternative is. One does not want an injured veterinarian or farrier. I would create a chute. Lets start by me sending you some videos that I find effective. Once you have created this safe space, then when the professionals arrive, you leave.

If you have a friend who handles horses well, you might ask them to come for the first few visits. Send me some video and use me to read those videos This is the center of my value in creating a world of the non-violent training of horses. I will help you because your situation is, in fact, happening here on this farm virtually every day we work with the mustangs. We want no injured mustangs. We want no injured horsepersons. And certainly we want no injured veterinarians or farriers. Let me help you.

10/11/2023: A horse I care very much about was put on a “patience pole” for HOURS. He cried out and turned circles and was so distressed. He didn’t calm down in the entire time he was restrained. I asked about what it was supposed to teach him and they told me it is to teach him “patience”.

So the horse is physically restrained, distraught, for hours. It looks like sacking out or flooding… is that correct? If not, how is it different? Each horse I saw on that pole exhibited high levels of distress and none of them seemed to have confidence or behavioral improvement afterward. I did look on the Uni, nothing there about patience poles that I could find. I also researched online and asked around and people just said it teaches patience.

Questions I have are “how?” “Is the level of distress and stress it causes fair to the horse?” “How do you tell if the training worked?” “Is This the only good way to do this?”

Please teach me what you can below. Suggestions on uni videos that can help are very welcome. I don’t have input in his training so I can’t change it. Just really want to understand this so I can decide what to do moving forward.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for this question. When I was a child there were alot more horses for farming or for pulling coaches and circumstances such as that. There was a great need for horses to exhibit extreme patience. When you went to town with your carriage you expected your horse to stand at a tie rail until you finished shopping. Sometimes these horses were asked to stand for more than an hour. If the horse was aggravated and began to twist and turn, negative occurrences will appear with the carriage or their body.

At this point in time, tie stalls were the order of the day. Very few horses enjoyed box stalls let alone a corral. I saw barns when I was a child that had 40-50 tie stalls, each stall was approximately two meters wide and three meters or so in length. There was generally a feed manger in the end that was used for tying. Those horses had to learn to stand, lie down and get up all in a very small area.

There was the need for conditioning young horses to accept this lifestyle. They did it and en masse at that. Breeding horses for the past 50-60 years has been greatly changed to genetically encourage horses to have more energy because the act of drafting vehicles was no longer a need.

Certain breeds of horses will still learn very easily to relax when tied for a period of time. We are in a genetic paragraph in the life of human and horse where action and energy is even more important than relaxation and acceptance of small areas to live in. The Thoroughbred horse and the Arabian horse is very difficult to condition to a tie stall. The Quarter Horse has been developed from quieter breeds. The element of a nervous condition will tax most young horses to fail the acceptance of being tied for long periods of time. It is up to we human beings to decide what sort of horse we want, why we want this horse, and how we ask this horse to live.

I wouldn’t want to attempt to train my Thoroughbred horses to stand in a tie stall. I would not appreciate my Quarter Horses standing in a tie stall. If I had draft horses or Shetlands I would be more comfortable to have them spend time in a tie stall for a shorter time if they had a job which required it. These are the principles of getting along with the personalities of the horses we chose to deal with.

10/04/2023: Hi Monty, I am an admirer or your work and really admire your non violent approach to training horses. I am just wondering if you have a view about an article I read that states that joining up is really the giving up of the horse.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. I suppose there is a necessity to go through every step of my concepts. It’s an interesting question because it is no doubt that the horses have a slight fear of any direct eye contact, square shoulders and a bold approach. I define that as communication rather than violence of any sort. We don’t hit them or cause pain of any sort.

It can be that we know another human being, we like this person and consider them a friend, but sometimes we direct them to give us space with words, not in a mean way. The horse has no words but they have a body language I call Equus. Ears back and eyes on eyes from the mare means go away.

I consider this gesture to be strictly communication and not a threat so as to cause real fear. It’s true that the flight animal will regard and respond to the slightest gestures to cause flight. Let’s call this one somewhere on the edge of fear, which means they go away. Let’s agree that this is communication and not an overt threat.

09/27/2023: Hello Monty, I am very afraid to get on a Horse with the spurs. I am afraid I will spur him by accident when I don’t mean it. Also getting off my horse as well. How do I get on and off my horse with the spurs?

Monty’s Answer: The answers to questions about spurs has to begin with me by saying that the sharp rowels (a spiked revolving disk at the end of a spur) on my spurs are covered with molten rubber. One can buy it in a hardware store and then I dip my spurs several times until it forms a ball of rubber around the rowels about the size of a ping pong ball.

This leaves me without worries as to an accidental use of the spurs. It has been very successful for me for many years now. My horses respond well and yet I know there is no pain or injury.

09/20/2023: I recently had a pony come to the farm. I was away so said to put him in a small paddock and I’ll move him later. It took me three days to catch him as he just ran around and around flat out. I tried Join-Up but no way! I watched Monty’s how to catch in the field video and used these strategies over the two days. Day 3 I tried Join-Up. He ran around then showed a couple of signs. I thought Monty would want all signs so I kept going. He then turned in and I thought Monty wouldn’t like that but I’m going to try. I turned away and he practically RAN up behind me! It wasn’t until I rubbed his forelock that he licked and chewed. I enjoyed the moment and thought as soon as he sees the halter, he will run. Nope, he was happy to be caught. It still amazes me ❤️

Monty’s Answer: The more you can close the gap or divide between the relationship of the flight animal and the human, the stronger the bond.

09/13/2023: I have a three-year-old gelding who frets the moment other horses go out of sight, he is extremely chummy. When I am taking the Shetland out to feed him, he won’t eat or even when he is with his Shetland and the Welsh in the paddock beside him goes out of sight because of how the paddock is set up, he is fretting. We tried removing other horses altogether for some time, but on their return, he was more fretful of them being taken away. He wants to be on top of them all the time, is not super respectful of staying out of their bubble space. He will pace, run and scream for them, won’t eat. I am not sure what would be the most appropriate way to handle this situation and teach him to not be so fretful. The horse is quiet as a lamb and a lovely horse generally. Any advice?

Monty’s Answer: Horses are flight animals. I use this term many times every day. I probably should include the statement that horses are herd animals. They feel safer and happier when they are close to their equine friends. It has been clear to me for almost all of these 88 years that the horse that achieves Join-Up with you, accepts you as a non-violent friend, is much less likely to demand to be with a group of four-legged friends than a two-legged animal that has never executed Join-Up.

The act of Join-Up will cause the horse to be far more comfortable with you under all circumstances. The same is true for wild deer. It is simply much more difficult to Join-Up with the wild deer than it is a horse. You don’t have to do Join-Up with a wild deer in order to process the principles of Join-Up that I have learned and executed for more than 80 years.

My lot in life has been to create an attitude whereby I can help others understand the principles of non-violent training in far less time than it took me to learn them from scratch. Anything you can do to assist yourself in that learning process simply reduces the amount of time than it takes to learn it. I can hasten your learning process by handing over to you the decades of work that I have done to prove the value of Join-Up and the art of non-violent training.

09/06/2023: Is getting a trot and canter a necessary part of Join-Up? It takes a lot of energy and work to get a trot and canter with just the long lines, and with a stick and flag, he will trot and canter.

Monty’s Answer: The trot, the canter, the stop, the turns, and the backup are all part of the results of your horse learning to do what you ask of him. Any action requested by the human being is improved and enhanced if Join-Up is in place. Cooperation is the essential outcome of a good Join-Up and virtually every horse understands that better than most humans do.

08/30/2023: Is Join-Up recommended before each ride? At the start of Join-Up, my horse only walks, then turns into me within a few minutes, doing at least two or three of signs of relaxation (eyes toward me, head lowering, smaller circle, licking lips).

Monty’s Answer: The full complement of Join-Up (the procedure) is not necessary once the horse has learned that you know his language. The fact is, however, that you are using Join-Up just to catch him in the pasture or the stall and throughout the process of tacking up and preparing to ride. The non-violent approach to living with the horse will include movements which will emanate from the act of doing a Join-Up. Once learned, it will be fun for you to experience your horse interacting with you on the given day.

08/23/2023: Hello Mr. Roberts, I would love to learn from you and your psychological peace of mind approach to the horse. I am an advanced equestrian (been riding since I was two years old, now I’m 36) in show jumping and training young/active and retired polo ponies (I don’t play polo). I do re-home many retired polo ponies ages 10 to 25 years old since most of them are very desensitized and great for beginners to learn to become an equestrian.

I founded www.ReplayPolo.com nine years ago after being in a car accident. A TBI (traumatic brain injury) caused me to be in a coma for two weeks and out of the saddle for months. It took eight or nine years to be able to ride at the professional level again. Now I have started re-homing retired racehorses of three to six years of age.

Due to my TBI injury, I have been reluctant since my stamina and toughness isn’t the same these days. I must learn a new way to train these young horses. I will be visiting a friend Memo Gracida in August in Santa Ynez and would be honored to come meet you and enroll in one of your courses for one to three weeks, which ever seems to be a good fit.

Monty’s Answer: Three years ago I was diagnosed with chronic inflammatory demyelinating polyneuropathy (CIDP). This qualifies me to understand the problems you have outlined. Fortunately my internal memory system has allowed me to continue my work through “muscle memory”. It is my hope that you will find, as you work, a muscle memory collection that you also received through the years. I believe I can help you for certain.

I am happy to introduce you to a system of training that is in line with the psychological properties of Equus Caballos. My muscle memories have been enhanced dramatically by my work with problem horses and the wild deer. Some of my procedures may seem to be fantasies but I have found them to be factual and practical answers to the needs of Equus the flight animal.

Please let me know when you have the opportunity to spend time observing and learning the principles of non-violent training that have been taught to me by the animals themselves. Reach my daughter Debbie to set up the time and I will be happy to help where ever I can.

08/16/2023" Hello Monty, I would like to know which are the correct measurements of the corral to do Join-Up. Does it necessarily need to be blind or covered at the sides? Can I use a circular corral made of wooden poles and steel wire but without any cover at the sides (blind side)?

Monty’s Answer: Probably the most important aspect of the Join-Up pen is that it is “safe”. No wire, and actually it’s an advantage if they can’t see out through the fence at all.

For the average-size horse, I suggest that a 50 foot diameter is optimal. If I were doing a lot of draft horses I might suggest 60 feet as the optimum size. One should remember that it is what we do inside the round pen is the most critical aspect. Proper size is convenient but not mandatory.

If one observes my work in all of its factors, one will remember that I achieved Join-Up with Shy Boy in the wild when it was two miles to the nearest fence. That is pretty inconvenient for the human being. Less than 50 feet in diameter is inconvenient for both the average horse and human.

Shy Boy was released and achieved Join-Up in an area where all the corners were square. My first Join-Ups were done in square pens. I learned quite early to panel off corners so that it became an octagon instead of a square. This is a great advantage to a horse in terms of a comfortable turn. In a smaller round pen, a circular pen is much easier on horse and human.

One should always remember that the most important thing about Join-Up is communication and your desire for your horse to be comfortable.

08/09/2023: I see a lot of iconic photos of Monty touching the horse’s face. When is it correct to touch the face and when is it not correct to touch the face. Is there a way to do it wrong and a way to do it right?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for this question. It is surprising that no one else has ever asked this question. There is hardly ever a time when it’s inappropriate to touch your horse’s face. Having said that, I don’t think it’s appropriate when riding your horse. But if your feet are on the ground and your horse is in a relaxed state, rubbing the face substantiates your peaceful attitude toward the horse. Horses will tend to relax more when the open hand rubs them between the eyes. No patting, just rubbing. Patting tends to pick up the heart rate while rubbing tends to reduce it.

08/02/2023: While reading your textbook, From My Hands to Yours, I had a question pop into my mind. The question is; how do you say sorry to a horse when you make a mistake? I’ve been just saying sorry, and rubbing the forehead for now.

The reason I ask this is because I wanted to know what body movement is most helpful to convey that. For example the head hung low and swing being an example of an I’m sorry from another horse. But how to use your body to say it? I tend to be forgetful or mess up, but not with other emotions coming up, it’s just part of having a brain injury.

Thanks for all you do and the wisdom you share! Eager to learn more in September.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you, for your question. It brings back memories for me of a time when I was about 15 or 16 years old. I was working with freshly captured mustangs intended for a wild horse race in Salinas, California. During these sessions, Join-Up was born.

I distinctly remember doing something that turned out to be wrong. Typically it would result in a mustang fleeing rapidly. Recognizing my mistake I found myself lowering my head and just walking away. I can remember distinctly sitting down in what we called the Green Corrals and leaning up against the huge 3×12 inch boards.

After a few dozen of these episodes, I found myself sitting, head in hands and then feeling the breath of the offended mustang. Later I learned that it isn’t necessary to sit down on the ground and quietly blame yourself but simply walking away with closed fingers, relaxed shoulders, eyes downward and shoulders on a 45 degree angle to the offended mustang.

I use this method today and it is just as effective as it was in the mid-1940s. Thankfully, I have learned to make far fewer egregious mistakes. And so my students get to see fewer of these movements. Your question will be responsible for me explaining these concepts more in the future.

I describe the story of the mustang mare that adopted me in my Round Pen about 40 years ago. Described in my book The Horses In My Life, if you read it, you will probably feel it has been exaggerated but in fact it is exactly what she did.

07/26/2023: Hi, Monty. I hope you are doing great. I write to you to let you know that your book “The Man Who Listens to Horses” touched me deeply. I spend daily almost four hours on the car driving back and forth from my home to my winery, so I decided to make good use of that time and bought the audiobook. I found myself crying and laughing while driving listening to the story of your life. I think you are someone really special and your life and work are amazing. Thank you for sharing them with us.

Your book and videos have changed the way I see horses. I was terrified of them. So much that I couldn’t ride or get close to them without being extremely scared.

I started riding about a year ago to get over that fear. I craved horses, wanted to be near them, touch them, smell them, feed them, groom them but I couldn’t because of fear. I started reading about horse behavior to understand their body language and that is when I came across your book. It has changed my life. I only wish I had read it when I was fifteen, not now, thirty years later. After reading it and watching the videos of your Online University I can partially understand and predict the horses reactions. I can enjoy being around these beautiful and noble creatures and I can ride without being totally stiff. Still working on that to be true. Also, since I started riding again I have befriended a horse trainer who uses your method and learn a lot as well through him. I have fallen twice, my fault, of course. I have bought a Criollo breed mare and intend to buy more. My life is now filled daily with horses and I couldn’t be happier.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for this extraordinary letter. It is your response to my work, shared by many, that has made my life acceptable to me. Somewhere you must have read that ‘my life’s goal is to leave the world a better place than I found it for horses and for people too.’ It is your exact response that leads me to believe that this goal is working for many people in many parts of the world. This should be shared by millions of people because so many need it.

07/19/2023: I’ve heard this a few times from people- “My horse is wonderful under saddle, they just hate groundwork”. Is it possible some horses dislike being worked on the ground, just like some horses prefer jumping to dressage? Or is it more likely that the horse experienced something bad in groundwork that caused them to behave adversely? Whichever option it is- should a horse with bad ground manners be restarted by a professional for safety of horse and rider?

Monty’s Answer: This is a very difficult question to answer. As I sit here in California trying to picture the circumstances you describe, it occurs to me that I need to see what you’re calling ground work. It is estimated that I have worked with over 70,000 horses all of which had some ground work involved. I recall some horses who didn’t like ground work but came to like it when I was working with them. I would love to see some video of what you are describing and I am sure that many people would benefit from the recommendations I make regarding your ground work.

07/12/2023: I have a young horse, 15 months old, who was foaled from my mare (maiden foal). I attempted Join-Up sessions when he was a weanling and had him separated from the mare for some time, no longer calling out. But once in the round pen he started calling out and still does even though he is not in same paddock (next to her but on his own). Let me say, nothing seems to encourage him to take flight. He will stand at the fence and call and call. He will move a few feet if I walk up to him but not like he’s frightened and wants to flee. I am perplexed and feel I am doing it all wrong and need help. Any advice you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks, best wishes from down under here in Australia.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for this question. The only thing I can do is sit here in California and visualize the actions of this young horse. The first thing that comes to my mind is to purchase a bamboo stick about 6-7 feet long (often found in plant nurseries). I would attach to that stick 5-6 plastic shopping bags and then I would proceed to walk briskly toward him, bouncing the shopping bags up and down on the end of the stick.

If he doesn’t flee from that, then he belongs in the “Believe It Or Not” book. As he tends to become accustomed to the plastic bags, I might change it to a large piece of tarpaulin rolled up, slapping it on the ground as I approached him. I could then move to a bed sheet that I could whip in the wind as I approached him rapidly. I don’t mean for you to overdo it or do I mean that he should be in a corral with dangerous fencing. See to it that your horse is safe and send me a short video of your results.

When your youngster will stand for each of these flight producers, he is ready for the saddle pad and the saddle.

07/05/2023: In long lining with my four-year-old, it’s hard to keep him trotting and it takes a lot to get him to canter. Often, he moves and picks his energy up when I use my flag stick. How can I get him to canter and maintain a canter just with the long lines?

Monty’s Answer: Impulsion comes in many forms for your relatively young horse. The principles of long lining a young horse are not as sophisticated as training more experienced horses. Remembering that we teach how important body positioning and your intention is, you should allow your horse to find his way around the pen with slack on the lines and soft hands. The young horse will investigate the components in his environment. Give him time to do that and settle into a steady forward motion before asking for anything more.

Visualize that you are using the Dually halter to introduce your horse to the long lines. Simply snap one of the long lines into each of the training rings of the Dually halter. The training part of the noseband will transmit any pressure that you apply through the two lines.

This set up gives you a good communication tool while preserving the precious tissues of the young horse’s mouth. The tissues over the bars of the horse’s mouth in the area of the corners are precious to any horseman. They should be treated with utmost respect as there is no second chance to create sensitivity once this area has been damaged during training.

Keep moving your horse forward with your eyes on the driving line of his body, your body angle moving your horse forward and ground driving with your lines as you would with reins if you were in the saddle. Habituate your horse to sound cues as well. Horses move when we cluck or “kiss” and can be taught to respond to your voice such as walk, trot or canter.

This ground work creates in your horse a willingness to listen to your hands and your requests. Once your horse is listening to your hands, you can have fun teaching your horse many new skills from the ground such as figure of eights and accepting obstacles, at any speed you wish. Be intentional and also have fun.

06/28/2023: My Arabian mare is 18 years old. I have been training and riding her for about 2 years now. I’ve had to do quite a bit of desensitizing, so that she is safe on trails and near roads. She now does quite well on any trail until we have to cross water. Even if it is only a 6 inch wide stream, she will balk and refuse to cross. No amount of persuasion, coaxing, and nudging will get her to go. I’ve tried backing her up in the water while I’m on the ground, but I have to push her with my shoulder and backing her up with her reins to get her to go. But it’s quite dangerous.

I’ve also unmounted and have led her through the water, but even that is dangerous, as she will try to jump and when she does she always lands right where I’m standing or walking, because I think she’s thinking in her mind that that’s probably a secure place to step. Last time that happened, she stepped on my leg and almost fractured it. Since then I have watched and rewatched your videos with Pat Roberts and try to do it her way, without luck. I’ve also tried using your giddy-up rope; it works for everything she balks at except for crossing water.

I’m guessing she possibly thinks that the water may have crocodiles in it, even even if they’re just baby ones (we are in Idaho). Or maybe she thinks that stepping in the water will make her sink like as if she was in a bog. I’m guessing that in her past years she may have never had much experience with water or that she had a really bad experience with water.

About a week ago on a ride we needed to cross a 3 ft wide stream of water, so I brought along a 20 foot lead rope. At the water she would not go across with all of the methods I explained above. So I got off and tied the reins up and put a halter on her with the lead rope. I crossed the water and coaxed her to cross the water; she did it with a great jump. Then we went back across and same thing. We did that about five times. Then I got back on her, and she willingly jumped the water again. And then we went back and forth across the water about 5 times jumping it every time. Then she tentatively started to step in the water. Then we crossed the water another five or six times walking through it.

The trick will be when we need to cross something that’s wider than what she can jump. I don’t mind wading out into the water, but what if the river is swift or deeper than what I can comfortably walk in? And if I’m doing any type of cross country/ endurance races, I sure don’t want to hold up my time by having to train her every time for every single stream or river that I cross. There is one ride that I’ve been on using a friend’s Foxtrotter, that you have to cross a 20 foot wide river about 16 times to get to a destination about 10 miles away. It’d be really awesome if I could do it with my Arabian. Ideally, it would be nice if she could test the edges of the water to see how muddy it is and then step in and have the confidence to go wherever. I read once that the Arabs used to put blinders on their horses and that would make the horses almost fearless. What are your ideas on this? Do you have any suggestions?

Monty’s Answer: Please understand that your 18 year old Arab mare is of the species, Equus Caballos. Virtually every horse born on this earth is reluctant to walk through water until a period of desensitizing is achieved. Your horse is no different with the exception of the fact that she is more sensitive.

If you could make an hour glass shape with panels about 6 feet high you could fabricate a water training devise. The hour glass would have the narrow center at least 8-10 feet wide. Do this in an area where no one will mind. If you dig a small ditch across that narrow passage, I suggest that the water portion is only 2-3 feet wide. Put a 30 foot line on your horse and walk through that area, stepping over the water course. Get yourself well clear of the passage way and ask someone to help your horse enter the hour glass shape and approach the water course.

Don’t make it extremely wide and difficult. Two to three feet can be negotiated with a minor hop. One might begin this process with a friend holding a broom handle with 4-5 shopping bags tied to it. If you horse refuses to enter the hour glass, you might need to add two more panels to the entrance so that she could be 20 feet from reaching the water course. One can then bring her into the elongated portion of the water course and stepping across the water, move as far as you can and then encourage your horse to come toward the water.

our friend with the plastic bags can push them through the panel and just move them back and forth behind your horse. Now the mare has a choice of the plastic bags at her heels or hopping over the water in front of her. As she works her way closer to the water, one can close the extra panels behind her so that when she backs up she bumps the panels. The plastic bag goes to work and if this is not successful, you’ve make your water too wide or too deep.

One does not want to hurt your horse in any process. You want her to take a chance in hopping over it. As she jumps over the water, see that she is headed directly toward her barn. When she comes over, you’re at the far end of the hourglass. Give her a rub between the eyes and walk back over the same course she traveled. Do this until she negotiates this little steam of water with no difficulties and then you make it slightly wider. Back and forth you go until your horse is practically walking over it without even hopping. Gradually increase the width and depth by adding more water.

I guarantee that I can take any horse and cause them to comfortably negotiate a river if necessary as long as they’re not experiencing pain. They will keep trying even if it begins with mud and ends up with a great river. It would be fun to train the horse you describe and my daughter now has a mountain trail course that even I was fairly certain that some horses would find the water obstacles to be impossible. I was wrong. Every horse that they have trained on the course soon learned to walk through the water without a problem. You can do it! The very violent horse may want your panels to be supported by steel posts in the ground so if they bump them they don’t move them. Don’t make it so narrow that they jump them and run into the panels. Start with as much as 8-10 feet width and then narrow the passage way as you progress.

06/21/2023: Does Monty have any videos or QA about riding bitless. When we try to put a bit in his mouth he gets his tongue over top. Is there a way to keep it over the tongue ?
John Pinkowski
Amy Weidman

Monty’s Answer: There certainly is a very effective way from keeping a horse from getting the tongue over the bit. In this effort I have come to appreciate a bit with tongue relief. That is to say, the bar between the left and right cheek increases its altitude as one travels toward the center of the mouthpiece itself, a high center. I like to have a roller in the center tucked up toward the top of the rise.

I’m not one to use chain curbs. I would much rather have leather under the chin and train with a soft touch. As the horse draws the tongue back in an attempt to elevate it over the mouthpiece, it simply won’t reach over the mouthpiece when the center is 2-3 inches higher than the bars on each side of the horses’ mouth.

I would continue to advise that black iron is far better than the shiny stainless steel mouthpieces that have become more popular. They are easier to clean but less palatable to the horse.

06/14/2023: I have several instructors for my two horses; a flatwork instructor, a horsemanship instructor and a jumping instructor. I have asked all of them this question and none of them can give me a definitive answer (perhaps there isn’t a definitive answer?) My question is this: (in your opinion) which of the horse’s senses is the most acute? Thank you for all your input and generous advice that you share.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for this question! Being curious about Equus Caballos keeps us all learning more about these wonderful animals. We teach these concepts in all of our courses here.

Horses qualify as the second most flighty of the flight animal species. The only species more flighty than the horse are the deer and antelope. There are many other flight animals and, as you travel the globe, you will discover vegetarian species which are far less flighty than the horses. Actions which are taken in order to save your life are taken without conscious thought when your life is at stake.

All flight animals react physically before they react with conscious thought. The five senses are sight, smell, hearing, taste and touch. A sixth sense is called proprioception which allows us to keep track of where our body parts are in space. Wild horses must prioritize their senses in order to survive. For the owner or trainer of horses, all of these facts will help you work with the nature of Equus in a more tranquil and effective way.

Horses have three distinct categories, or zones, which create their need for calling on their senses:

• The outer, awareness zone where the horse (or other prey animal) becomes aware of an outside stimulus (the presence of a potential threat) and will generally turn to face the direction of the approaching stimulus, but takes no further action. Studies have indicated this zone can range greatly in size from several kilometers in wild (or feral) horses, to only a few meters in older domesticated horses.

• The decision zone where the horse is now faced with a decision to flee from the approaching stimulus or remain in place, depending on the perceived threat posed by that stimulus.

• And finally, the pressure zone where the perceived threat is too close for the horse to use its natural flight tendency and must, instead, choose fight. Unlike many prey animals that are armed with horns or antlers with which they can defend themselves, horses have only their wits, speed and 50 million years of natural selection with which to defend themselves. Additionally, horses have developed a very unique fight response called positive thigmotaxis – or an ‘into-pressure’ response.

For me, these facts are exactly why I believe that violence is never the answer. Harsh treatment will cause the horse to attempt to flee until they are “broken” and give up. Horses that experience harsh treatment are, in my opinion, less likely to be successful partners with humans for the balance of their lives.

These findings are the specific reason that the world is changing rapidly. I am one of the first human beings to globally teach that horses will respond far more positively when violence is removed from the process of education. Thank you for giving me the opportunity to once again repeat one of my favorite sayings. Violence is never the answer. Violence is always for the violator and never for the victim. I believe that no one of us was born with the right to say, “You must or I’ll hurt you” to any other creature, animal or human.

06/07/2023: Dear Monty, thank you for all of your wonderful non violent work with horses and sharing it with all of us! I have had the privilege of meeting you when you started my Hackney horse, Brickell Jack, to saddle near Southampton in England about 15 years ago. He is still going well and is a horse in a lifetime.

We have made the mannequin rider version 1 and 2 and have successfully used it to start our standard Shetland to saddle for our grandchildren. Our 2 year old grandson enjoyed helping make the mannequin. My question is, how many times do you recommend to use the dummy rider on the starter pony?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for this question but it’s not an easy one to answer. There is no certain number of times for any of these training procedures. One must become accustomed to judging the ‘uptake’ of any request made by a trainer.

My experience is with a broad spectrum of all horses no matter the size or the attitude. I must watch the horse’s reaction to the mannequin rider and when there is acceptance without bucking, running violently, kicking or any other negative activity. I then conclude that the horse will accept the human rider.

In recent times I have included plastic shopping bags worn around the neck of the mannequin, on the stirrups and even the area where the hands of the rider would be. When the horse accepts the mannequin and the plastic bags, a positive experience is almost sure to follow, even for the first human rider.

05/31/2023: A horse I care very much about was put on a “patience pole” for HOURS. He cried out and turned circles and was so distressed. He didn’t calm down in the entire time he was restrained. I asked about what it was supposed to teach him and they told me it is to teach him “patience”.

So the horse is physically restrained, distraught, for hours. It looks like sacking out or flooding… is that correct? If not, how is it different? Each horse I saw on that pole exhibited high levels of distress and none of them seemed to have confidence or behavioral improvement afterward. I did look on the uni, nothing there about patience poles that I could find. I also researched online and asked around and people just said it teaches patience.

Questions I have are “how?” “Is the level of distress and stress it causes fair to the horse?” “How do you tell if the training worked?” “Is This the only good way to do this?”

Please teach me what you can below. Suggestions on uni videos that can help are very welcome. I don’t have input in his training so I can’t change it. Just really want to understand this so I can decide what to do moving forward.

Monty’s Answer: There have been many horse trainers who have attempted to cause horses to settle when tied. I have literally seen the horses dig holes in the ground two feet deep. I am of the opinion that tying a horse to something called a ‘patience pole’ has no value unless the environment around the horse can reduce adrenalin instead of increase adrenaline. Safe keeping of horses involves tying them for certain activities as a matter of course.

I am not a fan of patience poles. I know that they can produce relaxation in some horses. It is my opinion that the patience pole can be judged more by WHERE it is than WHAT it is. If the patience pole is in an area where the horse fails to settle down in an hour or so, then its probably in the wrong place. Its what’s around the pole that helps the settling down process. Another horse nearby can sometimes do the trick. I have even seen horses settle down with their favorite dog tied nearby. I have watched them settle down with grooming going on instead of simply leaving them by themselves.

Horses are herd animals and they often find themselves nervously elevated if left alone while restrained. You have happened on an interesting phenomenon in the personality of Equus and I hope that the people responsible for keeping this horse content will discover the best way to train as well.


05/24/2023: What do you do with a mare that pins her ears when you feed her?

Monty’s Answer: If a horse should own any part of the day, it’s when she’s eating. When you feed horses, leave them alone. Get the feed to them as easily as you can without mixing in at all, then leave them alone. Give them plenty of time to eat. This is not a time when they ought to be pleased with having you in their lives.

Horses that are cranky when they are fed are cranky because they want you out of their life and they want the tranquility of being able to eat without being bothered by a human being. You wouldn’t want them coming and hanging their head over your table when you’re having lunch, and they feel the same way. So, it is best to leave your horses alone when you feed them.

05/17/2023: Why do we mount on the left side? Is it merely tradition, or part of the horse’s physiology?

Monty’s Answer: We mount on the left because horses ridden by human beings were first ridden in war. You wore your saber down the left leg, if you got on the right and used your right foot to put in the stirrup you got all messed up with your saber. It became the near side of the horse a lot because of the military. They would teach young recruits how to get on their horse with their saber, rifle and backpack and they did it all from the left.

All the rules and regulations of the military were outlined from the left side. It became known as the near side, and the other side known as the off side because of those reasons. So through the millennium it became the habit of all people that worked with horses to work from the left side.

Most people who worked with driving horses would work from the near side because the harness was geared to be buckled from the near side, the bridle and headstall was geared to buckle from the near side. Horses are habitually worked with from birth from the near side so most horses respond better from that side.

05/10/2023: What do I do with my barrel racing horse that refuses to enter the arena?

*Monty’s Answer: Barrel racing is a unique activity. It is virtually the only contest where the horse is encouraged to run into the arena at top speed.This by itself is a technique designed to encourage undesirable behavior. Consider that the barrel horse is asked to run full out into the arena, blast through a prescribed course, complete the course and then run as fast as possible while usually being whipped.

Once outside the gate, I’ve witnessed barrel horse riders jerking the horse’s mouth with both hands to get him to stop. Then, consider that the rider will wait around for a while and ride toward the arena to ask the horse to do it again. Horses are not stupid. Why should the horse ever want to do that again? It amazes me how cooperative barrel racing horses are under these circumstances.

For this answer, I would like the reader to understand that there are several gymkhana events that essentially fall into this category. For the gymkhana trainer and rider, I would like to recommend these same procedures. It is necessary for the gymkhana participant to tailor the course pattern appropriate to the activity in question. I recommend that the training sessions for barrel racing horses should be accomplished with four barrels in the arena.

I believe that the horse should be brought into the arena in a calm, cool fashion and that he should be ridden at a walk for a few minutes. Then, begin the schooling process in a constant, ongoing fashion. When the third barrel has been executed, there is another barrel course in front of the horse. You should execute the second course and then return nonstop to the first course. The schooling session might be done at the walk, trot, canter and run. I recommend that the process then be reversed so that you end your training session at a walk.

You should allow the horse’s adrenaline to fully subside. I recommend that you dismount in the center of the arena and either sit on the ground, or walk with the horse for several minutes to completely disengage the horse from the training process. Having accomplished each of these tasks, then you should lead the horse out of the arena.

If it is possible to vary the gates used in the training sessions, this is desirable. The barrel racing trainer should pause to consider how long it takes to train a horse to run out through the arena gate. I suggest that this can be accomplished in one or two training sessions, and should in no way be a part of the daily training routine.

I maintain that whipping the barrel racing horse is highly overrated as a means to lower the total time. I have been impressed in recent years to see that many barrel racers are using a short piece of rope fixed to the saddle horn that they flick back and forth in front of them to encourage the horse to run faster. This is seldom a pain-producing maneuver and is far more effective than a burning whip.

05/03/2023: Hello my name is Aron I had a question. How can I get a better bond with a horse, and how can I have less tension when I start riding a horse? Thanks in advance.

P.S. Your book is so beautiful, I have already read it three times. So beautiful a story, I just wanted to say that.

Monty’s Answer: You have simply created a question that has but one answer and, for me, has been 100% successful in my more than 80 years of training horses.

It would be my one and only answer and that would be to learn as much as you possibly can about the non-violent training methods that I have discovered and perfected over the 80 years that horses have filled my life.

My books, my online university and the podcasts that are posted bi-monthly are filled with the elements that create horses which are willing, relaxed and more a partner with the human than they are separate from humans.

Today I watched a horse in the round pen for the third day. There had only been lessons in Join-Up and relaxation. With this individual who was raised in thousands of acres of the Central California hills prior to coming to me, had never received any training at all. Tomorrow I will enter the round pen with him for the first time.

There will be about 60 visitors to watch as I request this individual to accept his first saddle and rider. My estimate is that it will take between 28-32 minutes to accomplish this. My record with over 3000 horses in 41 countries has proven that the average is less than 30 minutes while the traditional breaking methods have been accomplished in 4-6 weeks.

Please take advantage of the videos that are offered in so many formats of the methods I’m referring to. Yes, you have to learn it. It doesn’t come into your mind in the middle of the night. But all who have given it a fair chance realize it works every time.

04/26/2023: Dear Monty, I read your wonderful platform of information often, but have never asked for help before. I met you and your team at Mistico outside Cape Town a few years ago / what a fantastic day it was! I am now healing for the next 6-8 weeks in bed, two falls off my horse. I can “feel“ some of the problem but need some help on how to overcome it!

I bought Punch from a big riding yard in Franchoek – my trustworthy English trainer and horse masseuse helped me find him. Punch had had many owners in his then 13 years! I didn’t really check this out / he passed vetting – sound – so he had not done anything spectacular to leave any marks!

He is about 15 hands, was rather underweight, nice clean legs, quiet Boereperd/ thoroughbred cross. These Boereperd’s are horses left behind in SA about 200 yrs ago – solid farm horses with an incredible smooth “post“ a trot you can sit in for ages, feeling at one with the rhythm.

Here comes the mistake: our summer, before Covid, I let my grandson, a small, lightweight, gymnastic trained and amazing bike rider ride in the arena/ he had a hard hat and my Hit/Air jacket on – no shoes! He did well for a while then asked me to take off the lead reign. In no time at all he road away and dug his heels in – he is a tiny 11 year old. Horse cantered, then galloped around the arena 4 times – I didn’t intervene – it’s 450kg of scared runaway! I told him to bail in the far corner as there were walls on 2 sides and posts and fences on the other! The Hit-Air jacket worked, Ben had a scratch, was shaken, felt squashed but OK. Punch ran for 20 meters and stopped – went to graze on edges. I had him taken back to his paddock, patted, took Ben with bare heels inside. He rode well, like a jockey and threw himself off on the corner I told him to! I didn’t think he would manage more than the 4 and 1/2 laps he did! I went to see my horse later, no signs of stress.

I then had another ride with my trainer at the far side of arena. I was feeling quite happy and confident thought we were working well, doing nice collected circles, nothing too complicated. Ralph was at the other end of arena instructing my groom on the lovely Arab I was hoping he might see how well we were riding and may have glanced over my shoulder, then I felt the buck, heard Ralph call, “Pull your reins.”

I waited for the bang:pop of the jacket and was then on my back in the wet sandy arena , with Punch off at a gallop again! Sad heart, 3 times this year – whatever the reasons… I have had lots of time to reflect in this month, not including MRI, Dr. injections for pain and weeks of bed rest. Verdict was ; corona equine syndrome!!! Some coincidence with words! The glut and leg pain has gone but the walking, with a Zimmer frame is difficult!

Although I don’t have a window to Punch’s past 13/14 years, I want this to work! What more can you share with me? Although the past 70 I have always ridden, danced, swim a lot in summer and I’m strong. Thank you for your wonderful platform to share our problems.

*Monty’s Answer: Thank you for sharing your experience. I am not so sure that in all of the years which I have taken questions from well meaning owners and trainers have I heard such a list of don’t’s with zero do’s.

#1: I never would have placed a child on this horse in an area described by you. This refers to, but not limited to, the size of the enclosure large enough to allow the horse to get up speed and run toward the corners.

I never would have suggested that the horse you describe was ready for you to ride in the area outlined. This horse needs to be ridden by you or another experienced rider in an area which would allow the horse to gallop no more than 20 meters before there was a secure fence preferably forming a circular pattern. An experienced rider should spend time on this horse in a rounded enclosed area with fences at least 2-3 meters in height.

One should be able to ride this horse at relatively fast gallop and then agree to come down to a walk when requested. Never should this procedure be done with the rider describes in this question. This should only be done with an experienced rider with many hours on horses with little training.

One should be able to ride this horse at a slow walk, trot , canter as well as a speedy gallop, all of this accomplished in the area I described. At the conclusion of a canter or gallop, this horse should willingly stop when requested and stand on a loose rein without motion.

Change your way of thinking as soon as possible. You will be outlining more injuries to more advisors as time passes if the same procedures used in the past are attempted in the future. I am happy to receive a short video of the behavior we have discussed here so as to know more about what I might suggest to make your lives safer than what you have described to me from past riding sessions.

04/19/23: Hi Monty, I have a problem while using the Dually Halter. My new 4-year-old Arabian horse has really bad ground manners. So I am working him with the Dually Halter. His weak point is backing up and staying out of my space. But he found a way around the mechanism of the Dually Halter. He takes his head completely to his chest and kind of locks it there. So I am not able to give the correct signal because there is no space as to say, because when I pull on the rope it is always leading a little bit to the side and not directly back.

When we are done with the Join-Up, he is backing up because of the body language but the problem of him ignoring the Dually stays the same. But as he had a trauma with the trailer as well, I really need him working with the Dually. I would be so happy if you can give me some advice.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. This is a problem that I see about 5% of the time and it is nearly 100% experienced by women or children. Please let your mind track the thoughts of the horse.

The rope of the Dually Halter over the nose is soft and far less demanding than the chain often used by traditional horsemen. Most of my adult life I’ve been well trained to respond firmly, consistently and quickly.

If the handler is less than firm and does not have educated hands with good timing for the release of pressure, the horse can quickly learn that they can drop their head to their chest and there is very little consequence in the way of discomfort.

The process of re-education is to cause the horse to be less comfortable when doing the wrong thing and more comfortable doing the right thing. Take the time to learn how to use the Dually properly and set up the horse to learn intrinsically.

If the problem is well established as you describe here, my suggestion is to request an experienced instructor or trainer who is educated in my methods to help you overcome it. Horses are far more intelligent than the average person allows. They read the human and look for ways to engage in the behavior without consequence.

The answer is to get help from an experienced trainer and when the horse buries the head on the chest, the handler can back the horse up firmly and rapidly. That handler should go lightly at first and cause the behavior wanted. Once the horse is in the favored position, the handler should achieve a rapid back up. After a few of these session this behavior will not seem so easy to achieve. I have seen a young student of ours 8-9 years of age take over after this schooling and have the horse responding without the resistance noted.

It is often that horses of this nature will eventually test those boundaries. Schooling may have to be repeated on several occasions before it becomes a matter of total cooperation.

The wrong alternative would be to use a sharper and more painful noseband. I do NOT RECOMMEND THIS because eventually these horses will test a weak arm again and then where do you go? I have seen horses in the warm-up ring at competitions with bloodied noses because of harsh leads. I believe this will eventually cause a determined horse to become dangerous.

The correct solution is to become educated in using the Dually halter, seek instruction from an experienced trainer and practice firm, consistent and well timed actions.

04/12/2023: I have a 9-year-old mare called Tilly. I have only had her for two days. I have groomed her, picked all four feet up, and lead her around the farm to enable her to get used to her new surroundings.

She is a sweet little thing, and things have been going quite well (I know its only two days) until today, when she followed myself and two friends out of her shelter into her field. After a short while Tilly went back into her shelter. We then followed her in (you have to go into the shelter, as this is the exit from the field). She was eating hay at the time. We had to walk around the back off her to get past. She was aware that we were coming past her, she allowed me and one friend to go past, but she then moved herself over stopping the other friend from passing, I asked her to move over by pushing on her butt, which she refused to do, and she then kicked out twice.

I realize you should not go behind a horse, but ask why she would do this, as we did not surprise her, she knew we were coming past her. I am a novice rider, so am worried that she might always kick out. Do you think that this was a one off due to the circumstances, or if not, is there a way that I can stop her doing it. I need to be able to trust her to a certain degree, I don’t think she’s a nasty horse at all (don’t think any horse is nasty really, I think they usually have a good reason to misbehave).

I would really appreciate your view on this, and look forward to your response.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. It is always a challenge to answer these questions without being on the scene to examine the behavior without visual support.

The circumstances would strongly indicate that in her past she had feeding arrangements which required her to be aggressive toward other horses. I believe she is saying, “I know that I have to protect the food brought to me.”

It is my opinion that you should allow her the opportunity to eat without what she perceives to be competition. This mare has created a habitual pattern that requires the human to leave her alone without the competition of humans or other horses. She doesn’t realize that we don’t eat hay. The mare simply knows she has to protect it if it’s her property.

This is not a habit owners should attempt to correct by any degree of physical reprimand. Once the habit is created, it is usually a lifelong behavioral pattern. We can live with it, and just be careful.

04/05/2023: I have all of your books. I have a couple of them autographed by you when I saw you on tour years ago. Monty, what is the biggest or main difference between a Rider and a Horseman?

Monty’s Answer: It seems to me that the answer is simply the greatest distance in the world. There are champion jumping riders who simply know nothing about training a horse. There are many jockeys in the world who can ride like the wind but really know almost nothing about the inner workings of the horse from the behavioral category.

The top riders on this earth of ours generally spend as much time learning the tiny factors that cause the horse to understand the chosen event. My life in the competition ring was filled with other trainers who would often say “He’s just a rider.” It seems to me that everyone knew that what that person meant was that the subject didn’t know the underlying factors that might make he or she a horseman instead of “just a rider.”

03/29/2023: I purchased a Dually Halter last year, but shortly after my 14-year-old gelding was diagnosed with Trigeminal Mediated Headshaking Syndrome and I’ve not been able to safely ride him for almost 10 months. My vet at Alamo Pintado Equine recently declared my boy in remission and gave the go-ahead to start riding again. Do you have any experience with introducing a horse with this condition to a Dually? The sides of his face where the trigeminal nerve traverses are sensitive to touch, but he is no longing shaking his head, even slightly. One treatment I’ve used with some success (along with an antihistamine) is a nose cover on his fly mask. Any thoughts on introducing the Dually given his face sensitivity?

Monty’s Answer: The answer certainly comes to me clearly. With this condition, the most important activity is to hesitate tying up and I believe that you should tie only with an elastic bungee tie. I would hesitate ever tying up so that your horse could create a solid pull.

03/22/2023: I’m stumped. I have a six year old Tennessee Walking Horse who is great in every way – good ground manners, excellent riding but in the pasture he runs my retired geldings. He is fine in a neighboring pasture but when they are together it’s off to the races and he doesn’t settle down.
Any suggestions?

Monty’s Answer: It is my hope that you are an owner of a Tennessee Walking Horse (TWH) who subscribes to keeping the gait pure and not using pain causing materials. I had the opportunity to show a TWH mare in 1959 and had no knowledge of what trainers were doing to artificially enhance the gait by mistreating her with leg-blistering substances. I liked the mare and she won several contests for me.

I realize that the problem you have outlined has nothing to do with the problems I have pointed out above. Getting along with another horse in the field is not involving actions by the human. Tennessee Walking Horses are still horses, and they will act as horses have in the herd for 50 million years. We must be very careful not to be an enemy with actions that cause two horses to get along in the field.

I have encountered this problem with as many as 10 to 15 different breeds. Most of the time I can find a way to discourage aggressive / defensive behavior in a field. It occurs to me that the best decision I ever made with this particular problem was to create a partnership between a gentle domestic goat and the horse in question. What I discovered was that when this horse was in the field with his goat, he stood the other horse off more aggressively than ever. His partner horse however stayed well away from him and didn’t experience the aggressive tendencies he dealt with formerly.

I remember one such case where I used two goats and caused them to be emotionally attached to a separate horse. I remember it working well with one pair but I also remember a couple of failures where the goats got together and ended up with the same horses.

There is a lesson on our Equus Online University outlining the plan for causing of a horse and goat to fall in love and stick together like glue.

03/15/2023: With the knowledge that some horses learn faster and some need more time, does it happen that horses can have a learning disability where you have to use different methods or tools to train them.

Monty’s Answer: My experience tells me that horses have extreme differences in their ability to learn. I’m not so sure that there is any great advantage to the horse that learns with dramatic speed. I take this position because over the lifetime that I’ve spent training horses I have found that those that train the fastest also are typically the quickest to take up bad habits.

I remember so well a horse that was the son of Bras d’Or, sent to me in 1959. He took forever to learn the most simple tasks and I was critical of him to his owners after about six months of training. I was young and dedicated and I simply kept working slowly and repeatedly. They named him Fiddle D’Or and he learned each of his lessons and then would simply repeat them without fail. He didn’t look for new things so he simply kept doing the job and doing it well.

He seemed to have the physical ability to learn each lesson. I decided to compete with Fiddle in the middle of 1960. My choice of competitions for him was ‘working cow horse’ and doing it in the Hackamore. His first show was in Clements, California and I remember so well arriving on the showgrounds and expressing to my friends that I just couldn’t believe how quiet he was. Nothing bothered him.

It was the opinion of almost everyone there that he was the best in his class. The judge placed him 3rd and as we were leaving and the judge came to me and was concerned that maybe he should have won the class. His position was that it was the middle of the season and he had not seen the horse before. He told me that he expected him to be green and not prepared to win in high level competition. Shortly thereafter we competed in his second show. Not only did he win it but he won every competition and ended up with the year-end championship.

One might take the position that it was unfair to wait until the middle of the season to begin his career but I have to tell you that it took him that long to learn the skill required. Once he learned them I could make mistakes showing him yet it seemed that he would cover for me and do it in the right way. Fiddle D’Or was extreme but I believe that close examination would explain that there are rapid learners and inordinately slow learners.

The next horse that I won a championship with was Johnny Tivio and it was amazing how quickly he learned any lesson I put to him. With four world championships, he could learn very rapidly and simply did not look to learn negative lessons. But believe me he was ultra rare.

03/08/2023: I listened to a podcast about your buck stopper! I immediately joined your university My daughter and I have a few race horses and she trains them. I am so glad I listened to that podcast! That buck stopper and the dummy rider (Betty) are the best things ever. She took in a big 3 yr old Thoroughbred that was owned and spoiled by a 70 yr old lady and I have a 3 yr old quarter horse that she tried breaking last year and. She was bucked off hard about a week into training so we just left her alone to mature a year rather than taking her to the track and blowing her mind! We bought the Dually halter made the buck stopper and the dummy rider and oh what a difference! So glad you are changing horses lives! Thank you!

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much. If the truth were known, we would be receiving far more correspondences like this. It’s fair to say that you are a rare owner who sees, learns and improves. I don’t want anyone to simply accept my recommendations but with over 70K horses on my record, they certainly have taught me many valuable lessons. Congratulations, good luck and keep watching for findings I’ve made that improve the lives of people and horses alike.

03/01/2023: I’m trying to train a colt and your guidance is needed. I’m watching the videos. He likes to nibble, rub his muzzle on my coats and I have made the mistake of involuntarily smacking him when he did connect. How can I retract this and gain his trust?

Monty’s Answer: It’s good to hear that you realize that smacking is not a good thing to do under any circumstance. If that has been done, however, then the best thing is to repeat Join-Up procedures with rubbing and never smacking again. You can move your hand rapidly toward his head and then simply rub when he quietly accepts it.

02/22/2023: Hello. I’m currently reading your book, which is very intriguing to me. I was curious if my family was to purchase a horse for my two young girls if the ‘joining up’ method should be done with each rider to earn trust and should this method be done every time a new horse is purchased?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for the question. Join-Up® is a way to cause horses to want to be with people. When one does a Join-Up, it will most of the time also work when new people are attempting it. I believe it is better, however, to have each person do a Join-Up who is going to be involved with the horse.

Horses know the difference between one human and another. I believe the more you can do to cause a broad spectrum acceptance, the better off you are.

02/15/2023: Hi Monty, I am looking for some advice on my mare Gabriella. I bought her over a year ago and I instantly fell in love with her for her loving gentle nature and her love for kids. Gabriella is a 14 year old Arabian mare. She has had 3 babies. She had only a month or two of being back into riding after spending a few years as a brood mare. She is honestly the most affectionate horse I have met in my life she loves being hugged, kissed, pet, groomed and will stand forever to do. She makes a point of putting her head to people’s level and will put her head in my daughter’s stomach to have her pet and hug her. She has always been easy to catch.

When it comes to riding, there seems to be a disconnect. When asked to trot or back up, she would point her nose to the sky but I have since taught her how to hold her head properly. She is a incredibly well trained horse. If you sit heavy, she stops by words. She leg yields, turns with reins by barely touching them. She used to do trails and shows before becoming a brood mare, but their seems to be a disconnect she doesn’t seem to enjoy riding. It’s like a tolerance.

The only time she seems happy being ridden is when kids are lead around on her. I want her to enjoy being ridden the way she enjoys and loves hanging out on the ground I don’t want to force her. Do you have any suggestions on how to get there?

How can I help my horse enjoy riding?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for writing. I appreciate hearing the story of Gabriella. It sounds to me that she has become as much human as she is horse. At 14, I can’t blame her that much for continuing being ridden after being a broodmare. It’s time you take on a younger horse for the riding part of the kids’ life and let Gabriella enjoy the rest of her teenage years just loving people. There are lots of activities in-hand that you and Gabriella and the kids can do, too.

02/08/2023: I was given Monty’s book as a birthday present from my mother in law in 1997. Ashamed to say that I had never read it til just now… I have lost my business due to the Covid crisis and have been struggling to find direction and purpose in life. I started riding again with a friend who has a race horse training center in Cape Town. We train his racehorses on the beach. I have always had a close bond to animals but was still not sure how to begin the process to develop this further.

That is until i finished Monty’s book and to my surprise found the web site to your learning center. This is incredible… what would you suggest for an initial course? I am a US citizen but live in France and am spending more time in South Africa. I was thinking perhaps the 2 week intro course in either February or May would be the best place to start. Thank you to advise me on what course you would recommend and if there are still openings. Thank you in advance.


Monty’s Answer: The Monty Roberts Introductory Course of Horsemanship is an introduction to my concepts. I appreciate your interest and stand ready to assist in your learning my concepts. There are openings in the courses and the dates you have suggested. I am enthused with every student who enters my courses. Just inform us of the dates you choose and we will take up the challenge with great interest in your future.

02/02/2023: I have been riding since I was 6 years old. I dreamed of having my own horse for as long as I can remember however my parents said no well at least “not yet” they said horses where expensive and yes they were right about that… I remember running out the door crying many times when I wanted a horse so badly more to the point I needed a horse. After many years, I finally gave up on ever getting a horse I started taking lessons. Finally I helped a trainer with a horse named Brumby and we got him to the point that he could be ridden. After months of training I finally brought Brumby home. I was over the moon with this! I’ve had Brumby home for about a year now and I have done all kinds of stuff on him however I don’t have an arena to work in so I’m working in a small flat spot and been working on trot to canter transitions. However, I feel like I’m doing the same thing ever single day and I don’t know how to switch up my training or maybe if there’s classes I can take with Brumby or just something different because when I’m jumping Brumby his heart just isn’t in it he is very slow and I continually have to be whipping him with the crop to get him moving over the jumps. Please help!

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. When I receive information similar to what you have sent through, I ultimately find that the rider is trying to use too much body movement in the saddle to do what they’re asking. A lot of young riders will tend to look where they want to go and when they do, their weight is generally shifted toward where they are looking. I would recommend that you work with my Giddy-Up Rope and learn how to use it by watching my Equus Online University.

Teach yourself to look straight between the horses ears. Use a right leg to get a left lead, and a left leg to get a right lead. Changing directions should be done with the least amount of body shifting as one can teach themselves. The Giddy Up rope is not painful but for 99% of the horses it will tend to shuffle them forward which gives the rider the opportunity to direct your horse in what ever direction you choose.
Using body weight to go left or right will almost always cause the actions that you describe. Sit in the middle and push the horse forward with the directions I have given you here and I think the outcome will become acceptable.

01/25/2023: Hi Monty. I know this is a long shot but my names Leanne and I’m from Preston. UK. I need your help with my horse Texas. He has a lot of trust issues and doesn’t like to Stand when being mounted and rushes in his transitions from trot to canter. I’m sure he has experienced a lot of trauma in his life which has contribute to this but i want to be able to help him I order for our connection to grow and for him to to trust people again. Hs is an amazing horse who needs help and I want to give him that. So please could you help us. His lack of trust is impacting and our relationship. I just want him to know he is safe. I keep trying to work with him but I seem to be stuck. Please help me to help him. Thank you.

Monty’s Answer: This is a problem that is universal. Many horses will learn to control their routine when being mounted. The answer to this question comes from a young man who came to work for me about 10-15 years ago. He told me that as a child he learned to cause horses to come to him while he stood on a fence. He taught the horses to move sideways and to present the stirrup to mount. He said always takes one step back before proceeding forward. It embarrasses me now to tell you I thought he was crazy at the time.

I thought it was too difficult to expect a horse to come to you perched on a fence and then move sideways to present you with a stirrup. I was preparing to leave on a month long trip and I challenged him with a horse that was sure to confound his efforts. This was a horse who would barge off when you made any move that appears to be with the intention to be mounting. After my month long long trip was completed, I stopped by the stable and asked the young man to advise me as to the success of his silly recommendation.

His name is Hector and he told me to go to the mounting block, step up on it and hold a 30 foot line while he held the horse at the end of the line, 30 feet from the mounting block. Hector advised me that his cue was to kiss (squeak) to the horse. When I did follow his instructions, he released the horse, turned sideways and presented me with the stirrup. I unclipped the line, put my foot in the stirrup and mounted him without so much as a quiver of movement from him. He then volunteered the one step back and I rode him off.

This procedure is clearly taught on our online university. I presented the procedure at a live-streaming event we held here on our farm called The Movement. We received a message that Queen Elizabeth II had watched this lesson and asked if I would please teach all of her people to train the horses of the royal family in this same procedure.

It is not difficult to learn and if you are unaggressive and use these same techniques that you will view on our online university it will work, I guarantee it.

01/18/2023: Hello from Turkey, Mr. Roberts. I have a two-year-old Thoroughbred and she has starting gate problem. She has a start problem. She enters the start machine, but when the side of his body touches the rails, she jumps like a rocket. I removed the rail material and touched it with the same material.She allows it, and even enjoys it. But if she touches the same fixed material as it enters the machine, she will go crazy. I put a sponge in place of the rails, she even feels and reacts (normally playing with a sponge) she is a very smart and very fast horse but she made me very sad.I would be very happy if you give advice for my problem. Thank you so much.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. My experience with starting gate rails goes back more than 70 years. I was riding races when I was 8-9 years of age and in those days the starting gate was just being invented. Strangely enough, the first ones to come out in about 1942 were without the protruding rails. I didn’t like them very much because your leg could be crushed against the sides of the stalls. I believe that the first rails were added about 1944 or 1945. I was as happy as can be because my foot ankle and legs would no longer be crushed against the sides. This joy only lasted a few months before I came upon my first horse to fight the rails.

At this time my legs took a beating far more than they ever did when there was no rails. To analyze this behavioral pattern, one must understand the principles of positive thigmotaxis and negative thigmotaxis. We humans are negative thigmotaxis, as a behavior exhibited when there is pain or pressure brought to the surface of our body. Those individuals, of any species, which go into pressure or pain are exhibiting positive thigmotaxis.

We human beings are negative except for one part of our body. When we humans are bringing in our first teeth it is extremely painful. We react to that by wanting something to bite down on like a rubber ring. Babies bringing in their first teeth are more likely to exhibit positive thigmotaxis than individuals of an older age. Babies desperately want to bite down on a rubber or pliable object. Horses are positive all over their body and the rails will be received without significant negatives by only a few horses.

When our horses exhibit positive thigmotaxis in the starting stalls, it can be extremely dangerous for riders and horses as well. The actions we must deliver for our horses are clearly exhibited on our Equus Online University. Its only been about 6-7 years ago that I decided to create a unique piece of equipment I call the T.O.P. Pole. It’s an acronym for training off pressure. The Online University clearly shows my methods of using the T.O.P. pole to educate the horse that it is less painful to move away from the stimulus than to go into it.

The results of this discovery have been accepted by our horses without a failure. The results at the race track have been overwhelmingly positive where horse have been schooled to accept the T.O.P. Pole. We did a survey at Santa Anita Racetrack to find that horses just leaning on a rail lose from 3-5 lengths at the start of any race. All of the young horses that I have started in the past five years have been free of any problem caused by leaning on the rails in the starting gate.

If you watch the videos online it is easy to include this training in the procedures of any knowledgeable horseman. It should be noted that my first effort to solve this problem was to use a very heavy blanket that covered the hips of the horse and had a padded area at the rails. It was pretty effective and found its way around the world. To cure this negative behavior before they get to the racetrack is far better than to wait until there is an obvious problem and then suddenly cover it over with a blanket on every attempt to use the starting gate.

2023/01/11: Hello Monty,

I am a professional show jumper, my husband is the former world champion 2010 in Kentucky Philippe le Jeune. I bought a horse because basically I felt sorry for him. He is the loveliest when not ridden although he is very sensitive to all noises.

When you sit on him, because he was used to being treated with violence, he gets very strong and gets scared of anything at any moment. He got already much better with me in 2-3 months. I never use strength with him and when he wants to pick a fight (I think he learnt that if he does this the rider is then scared of him) I never engage.

He already trusts me more but to ride him in a soft bit is impossible. He starts to trust me and in the ring is the bravest but I would like him not to be always so terrorized. Can you help me?

Kind regards, Lucia le Jeune

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. I am working with a horse right now who exhibits the same behavioral patterns that I am reading into your question. I congratulate you for your understanding of the obvious problems created by former human beings in the life of this horse. The answer to this problem is not easy to understand and it is filled with pitfalls when you get it wrong. I would love to have more time with you and I would ask you to set up a telephone coaching session that might be helpful to you.

You are on the right course to be fair to a horse who has had harsh treatment by other humans. He is reacting in fear and he is recognizing a set of circumstances in riding that rids him of riders in the past. Similar to the sensitive horse I am currently working with, your horse needs to be assessed at the moments he decides to react. I have created my Equus Online University to be a resource for questions just like yours. Through my daughter Debbie, you may want to work out the appropriate online lessons. Another option is personal coaching where I can see you riding your horse and dealing with the problems you have identified. 

Please be careful and don’t let this behavior go without a strong effort to change it. To hope for the best without a full understanding of this problem could easily mean serious injuries. It is impossible for me to travel anymore but my 87 years have prepared me to assist troubled human beings and troubled horses as well. Believe me when I tell you I can fix this horse in a matter of days rather than months. If I have the opportunity, I feel confident that I could help you as well. I have a student arriving from Wales as we speak. She was a brave talented rider when I met her about eight years ago. She is a fantastic trainer today with a property full of remedial horses and doing a fantastic job. Please let me help you walk through this problem together and I will find the answer. 

12/04/2022: I am listening to an audio book about Japanese Americans during WWII. They are talking about a Japanese concentration camp at the Salinas rodeo grounds. Just wondering if you remember that?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your inquiry. Please think back to a time when you were six years of age. December 7, 1941. Try to think of something to you at that age that was earth shattering. When I say what happened to me, I want you to realize that at six years of age, I knew it was happening to the whole world but the interment camp at the Salinas Rodeo Grounds was a personal experience thought by me to be aimed directly at me. I lived there on the grounds and these military men came and ordered us off the premises. 

Ginger, my first horse, lived there as well. Two years prior to the concentration camp, I won my first trophy while riding Ginger. Many things happened to my brain at the time of this banishment My father sent Ginger to a kill factory. Friends of mine were placed behind the concentration camp fence through which I could speak with them but only if the guards weren’t watching. I remember standing on one side of this fence as high as a two story building with barbed wire laced throughout it. 

I was speaking with Don Aikida who was on the other side of the fence. He had just become one of the most exciting track stars and football players Salinas ever had. I was in awe of Don Aikida and I didn’t care whether he was Japanese or not. There was a strong question in my mind as to whether I wanted to be an American citizen or not. Confused, I wasn’t sure we hadn’t done something which deserved the attack on Pearl Harbor. I remember asking my mother to show me Japan on the globe we had in our house. 

To show you how I remember every nuance of this distractors action against American Japanese, let me tell you that my parents took me to 347 Church Street and put our family in a single story house which cost them $35 per month. I had a three mile walk each day to care for the horses that we housed in a large farm barn on Villa Street. This had been a barn occupied by two Japanese families who farmed the ground around it. They were at that time inside the concentration camp on the rodeo grounds. 

I remember that Dr. Leach was the president of the California Rodeo Grounds and he seemed to think the world of me. We stood outside the fence while he explained to me that our time away from the grounds would probably be only a few months. I remember asking Dr. Leach what the trenches were that they were digging between two of the largest stable blocks that we had before the military took it over. These trenches were 2-3 hundred yards in length and 40-50 feet in width. He explained that one was a restroom for the women and the other for the men. 

Please stop and ask yourself how these conditions would be burned into the minds of a six year old, never to be forgotten. The same action was taken against Bay Meadows Racetrack near San Francisco and Santa Anita in the Los Angeles area. It seems that our governmental officials felt that 12’ x 12’ boxstalls would make great homes for Japanese families. I love my country and most of our citizens. It’s true however that mistakes can be made and concentration camps for Japanese Americans was one of our greatest mistakes. 

12/28/2022: I have a 14.2hh Connie X with a teaspoon of TB & British riding pony, highly intelligent and equally sensitive. He’s a lovely boy but he seems to be getting worse with his separation anxiety and the need to control his environment as I perceive it.

The problem is with his loading and being able to be taken to places. I have worked with him on this issue, I’ve conducted join up /follow up and he responded wonderfully, the trust he showed he’s demonstrated as I slowly nurtured him back into the trailer (static) using only his willingness as my guide rather than force the issue. Over two months having started with an empty partition-less trailer I’ve managed to reconstruct the trailer around him. We recently got to the stage whereby he could be closed in and left for a short time (5 minutes). However, he’s regressed to the point of having to start again when a vehicle was attached today.

I’m sure that I’m leaving many pertinent subtleties in fully appraising his issue such as his need to know and see everything, exciting moments sees him ask to go out to the field and not necessarily stay with the other two boys. The herd dynamics is that he’s not the top dog but he mirrors their every move whether in the stable or field.

I’ve sensed that probably he may have been through previous homes spending much time in stabled environs but being only 8, I can’t think that it would have been many homes. I would appreciate any thoughts on how best to proceed with him. 

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your inquiry. Reading into your words it is my strong feeling that you are extremely interested in the behavioral patterns of equus. In assessing your reactions to your horse’s behavior, I feel very strongly that you are over-emphasizing the subtleties of the thought patterns from your horse. 

I have to tell you that I would love to work with you and your horse. I don’t know where you live but you might be in the UK. Should you wish to rewrite your inquiry and include the location of you and your horse, then I could make suggestions on who might be best to help you. 

I feel strongly that you are deep in the area of being fair with your horse which is admirable. Conversely, it seems to me you are applying human thought patterns to your horse which is not uncommon but often times will lead you in the wrong direction. Let’s agree that your horse is ‘equus caballos’. We can agree that there are four legs, a long neck and a brain that is tuned to the world of the flight animal. 

What we need to do is usher our animal down the flight animal path, allowing a comfort zone for each of the tasks that we chose for him. I would love to hear from you and even to see some video clips before I begin recommending patterns to follow. As I sit right now, I would be guessing at these problems with a blind fold on. 

Do I think you can fix them? No, I know you can fix them! It’s only a matter of getting the environment right. The little evidence that I can pull from your communication would suggest that he is a highly intelligent animal. He is only doing what he knows to do. I am here to assist you if you chose to follow through with the information I need.

12/21/2022: Greetings from London England! I have been to a number of your demonstrations, the last one where you did your “80 press-ups at 80“, and I look forward to seeing you again!
 
You can probably tell by the funny name that I was not born in England. In fact I was born in Iran. Iran has a long history between man and horse. What is more impressive, however, is that Iran also has a long history between woman and horse, going back to the Parthian warriors who could shoot backwards whilst galloping at full speed (“the Parthian shot”) and without stirrups!
 
Mr Roberts, I have seen you, I have read your books, and I know that overcoming male violence is at the heart of your message. No doubt you are aware of what is happening in Iran right now. That is the worst possible form of male violence, and it is directed squarely against unarmed women.
 
I am trying to raise the conscience and compassion of non-Iranians towards Iranian protestors by portraying them as other than just victims. May I ask you to consider giving the brave women and girls of Iran a mention on your website and in your demonstrations; you have a huge number of followers, both in the United States and worldwide, and even just a single message of support from you would have far more reach than anything I could hope to achieve by myself.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for writing and requesting my thoughts. I am answering this on the 19th of December. As you know, Christians are taking this season as their number one celebration of each year. ’Comfort and Joy’ is the motto, especially at Christmas. There are many parts of the world right now which are not having comfort or very little joy. It happens to be a time when certain publishers are asking me for my final book. Recently I was asked to make a list of the most joyous occasions and a list of the most important human individuals in my life and also the most important horses I have worked with. 

When I was a young boy, Sister Agnes Patricia helped me understand that the violence perpetrated on me by my father was a generational pattern of behavior that I need not carry on. Given that I saw that the horses didn’t need violence to be taught, I learned that I too had a choice and could behave in the absence of violence.

The fact is that when I begin to think of the people who were most important to me, a very large percentage is from the females I have known. I answer this question one day after a very meaningful time with a lady coming to visit us whom I first met in the mid-1970s. Her name is Ada Gates and she is the first licensed female farrier on the racetracks of our country. The relationship between Ada, my family and many other friends has carried on since then. Ada lead the way and now there are many successful female farriers and as you probably know, and several successful female jockeys as well. 

The behavioral patterns of horses are, in so many ways, much closer to the behavioral patterns of the female side of our species. I am strongly of the opinion that the Almighty created humans and gave them equal opportunities to succeed in life as it comes through to us, no matter the responsibilities in question. I do not believe that any male has any rights to behave against the opposite sex and one day I believe the entire world will realize this conclusion. Iran is obviously operating under the assumption that males are superior to their female counterparts. Eventually this will be proven unfounded and exposed as unbalanced.

My wife and I have been married for 66 years now and she has always been, in name and fact, my partner in business and life. Our first two offspring were girls. My eldest, Debbie, is typing this as I weekly dictate my answers here and she is the director of my legacy. The horse show world is rapidly becoming a center piece for female excellence in equine competitions. All of us recently lost one of the most important world leaders to ever exist. Queen Elizabeth II and I were the closest of friends for 33 years. It confounds me that males could fail to place her at the top of the list of world leaders. 

If horses could talk I feel certain they would chose a female rider in most instances. Many people know that I believe that the most important word in the English language is compromise. In male centered cultures, compromise is usually rare. Testosterone and demand are partners in the world of male dominance. 

12/14/2022: Hello Monty, I hope you are well. Please may I ask for your advice?

I have a young horse, 5 years old, who has not had the best start to life (passed from dealer to dealer.) Prior to my taking him on in April this year, the longest home he has had!

I have worked incredibly hard with him using your techniques and trying to understand him and his manner. He is under regular physio due to discomfort in his pelvis but is so much happier already and we are all delighted with the progress. 

He was initially terrible with my farrier (refusing to lift his hooves) and threw us both round the yard rearing and striking out, through (I believe) sheer fear. I have worked hard with him to the point he now respects the farrier to a degree but I have to pick up his feet and pass them to the farrier. He is happy with that and my trust to look after him. However he has a real issue with people walking towards him with objects such as a saddle or farriers tool box, to the point ears are flat back, and he will square up to you, head in the air looking down at you. He will then lunge towards you and he can be very handy with his legs. 

I’m a bit cautious of how I should be dealing with this situation as I don’t want to get hurt or make him feel so threatened about the situation. He is only 5 years old and he is generally very willing but this behaviour makes him come across very opinionated!! 

He has a sweet nature generally and loves the Join-Up and the Dually Halter which he does respect brilliantly. 

Can you offer me any advice to help this little fella feel more at ease and help me feel more confident of what I can do to help? 

Thank you so much. I’m a huge fan of yours and have been since a little girl, watching your DVDs and reading your books. 

Monty’s Answer: It sounds to me from your words, that you have not been on my Online University. You are describing a large percentage of raw horses. I am pleased that you are using the Dually Halter and even more pleased that he respects it. It’s hard for me to believe he respects it but then follows through with the behavior you’ve communicated. 

You need to be clear with the Dually Halter when he displays the behavior you have outlined. With almost 800 lessons now on my Online University, I am sure you will find similar behaviors to that which you are trying to control. Believe me there is no harm in learning more than the simple answers to these few questions and the next horse you have may have similar behavior with what could be a slight different way of dealing with it.

Learning the language of the horses, Equus, is imperative to create very clear questions and answers between you and your horse. We are working hard to cover every challenge that horse owners experience and with the almost 800 lessons. You can just imagine that we’ve covered very many behaviors that would be similar to what you are experiencing. 

12/07/2022: I volunteer at “Spring Creek Horse Rescue” in Durango CO. In the last 6 months we received two foals who were sisters, a year and a half apart in age, but the same size due to malnutrition. The older one is not quite touchable, but we are being patient due to her traumatic experience in a kill pen.

The problem is, the older one came in with a very small halter that she has quickly outgrown, but will not let us touch her to get it off. We have tried sedation, but it didn’t work. Apparently her experiences have not left her yet. We do NOT want to do anything that will set her back in gaining her trust, but we’ve got to get the halter off.

If you have any ideas, please let me know.
Thank you for your time and I look forward to hearing back from you.

Monty’s Answer: It’s very difficult for me to describe how many people come forward with this business of ‘how to’ for any given purpose with an extra raw young horse. My method here on my farm is to use what we call a Gentling Facility. The chute is about the size of the space given to a horse in a two horse trailer. I have no idea how you attempted to administer tranquilizer to a horse that you can’t take the halter off. I would have to guess that it was hours of coaxing or involved a darting. I don’t recommend either one. 

I do recommend the acquisition of panels about eight feet long and about six feet tall. The minimum size would be three panels with the second and third panel being about three feet long by the same six feet tall. Attach one end of the larger panel to a secure tall fence or solid wall and then pull it away from the attachment so that it allows the horse to stand in a similar space to what they would find in a two horse trailer. In this position one is able to operate between the bars on the large panel or reach over the panel by stepping on the bars and spend significant time showing the horse, with your hands, that you don’t intend to hurt him. 

Use your judgement as to the step by step removal of the halter. Nothing should be done to create rearing or fighting in the chute at all. In the case of an extra raw horse, it might be several days of simply placing the horse in the chute where there is a nice portion of sweet feed so this area becomes a good place to be instead of a bad one. This communication triggers me to suggest that we approximate this system with panels and we find the appropriate horse, video it and place it on our Online University.

11/30/2022: I have a question! I am new to horsemanship. I am learning groundwork for my own benefit (I do not own a horse) and volunteer at a horse stable in Tavira, Portugal (where I have am currently living, moving from Colorado). I find myself getting extremely motion sickness as we do join up during my lessons. Round and round even though I look ahead, I subsequently get nausea. Today, I almost threw up. How do I handle this? I am 66 years old and the stables I volunteer with has many horses. The one I worked with today was quicker around the smaller arena. Would using a bigger arena help? Any insights are greatly appreciated. Thank you very much! MariaI have a question! I am new to horsemanship. I am learning groundwork for my own benefit (I do not own a horse) and volunteer at a horse stable in Tavira, Portugal (where I have am currently living, moving from Colorado). I find myself getting extremely motion sickness as we do join up during my lessons. Round and round even though I look ahead, I subsequently get nausea. Today, I almost threw up. How do I handle this? I am 66 years old and the stables I volunteer with has many horses. The one I worked with today was quicker around the smaller arena. Would using a bigger arena help? Any insights are greatly appreciated. Thank you very much!

• Monty’s Answer:* Believe me, I personally know of the circumstances you describe. I have conquered this dilemma with one visit to a good general medical practitioner who prescribed for me Scopolamine patches. They were designed for sea sickness, air sickness etc. They work like a charm for me and I highly recommend this method!

11/23/2022: Hello, Monty. I have a question about something my horse does that’s unexplainable and I would love to understand it. I have said a hundred times, if only I could ask Monty Roberts’. So here’s my question. While trail riding with others, my horse will not walk side by side with another and he will not pass another horse. If they slow down, he slows down. If they speed up, he goes with that. It’s so strange and frustrating. I cannot force him to pass someone no matter what I do. He came from a cattle ranch in northern New Mexico where he had a working job. His previous owner said he was out 6 days a week, 25 minutes a day until I bought him at age 6. My horse was very forward for a few years and I moved to Arizona with him where he is boarding with a herd. This strange behavior started then, which was 6 yrs ago. He’s now 16. Any feed back would be welcomed. It’s been very perplexing.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. While you believe that this is a difficult set of circumstances to overcome, you should realize that I have dealt with this, and similar behavior, most of my life. Please try to open your mind and allow me to present behavioral circumstances which are very apt to solve your problem.

First, I would ask if you have ever studied or dealt with the use of the Giddy-Up Rope This piece of equipment is featured in several lessons on my Online University . First let’s ask why a horse would develop these tendencies. Much of what I present is my best guess on what this horse experienced in his early ridden life. Often these horses are asked to ride along with fellow riders or cattle to drive at which time they are relaxed and enjoying their trip. Suddenly something happens that requires speed, accuracy and stamina. It might be a problem with another rider. It might be a problem with feral horse or it might be cattle.

At the time of this occurrence, many Western riders will use a rawhide romal or a quirt (whip) or some device that will demand of them at full speed and some hard work. I am not saying that we should arrest everyone who has used these techniques. Believe me when I tell you that they were commonplace in the Western states in particular.

When one studies the use of the Giddy-Up Rope the first surprise is that it can produce no pain. The behavior you have described can, in my opinion, ask the horse to go forward past an equine partner and canter up any given trail. Forty to fifty yards is sufficient and then a turn and circle back to re-join the partner trail horse. A half a mile later, one might create the same lesson with the returning circle being in the opposite direction.

On each occasion, returning to the partner horse should elicit a calm relaxed demeanor from the rider. The second part of this lesson would be to reduce the speed at a walk until your horse is well behind the other and then the use of the Giddy-Up Rope is extremely helpful in causing an increase in speed to catch up to the partner horse where then a totally relaxed rider is aboard and a walk with equal speed to the trail partner will encourage relaxation.

The goals in this lesson are meant to create a mindset whereby the horse can leave a position beside a trail partner and go at speed in a large circle and back to the side of the original partner. At that point the horse understands that its a nice place to be. The Giddy-Up Rope encourages, without pain, to leave that position with the knowledge that the rider is going to create circumstances for a return to that position in the absence of pain.

With horses of this sort, one can almost always find that pain producing objects were used, but seldom when just walking beside another horse. The Giddy-Up Rope can begin its life with you by simply encouraging forward speed WITHOUT another horse involved. This should be for a short distance and then relaxation for a longer period of time. Never should this horse receive stinging pain in an attempt to increase forward momentum.

11/16/2022: I’ve been trying to follow the guides from Monty Roberts and his daughter but my recently purchased OTTB continues to backtrack every time I feel like I’m making progress. The biggest issue currently being biting. What can I do?

Monty’s Answer: Bad behavior is almost always our fault and not the fault of the horse. I have worked with hundreds, possibly thousands, of horses that bite, and I have found a very simple and effective solution. When the horse reaches to bite you, you need to tap him lightly on the shin of his leg with your foot. I am not, repeat, NOT, encouraging you to strike a horse to cause pain.

What I am suggesting you do is to cause the horse to associate the thought of biting with discomfort in another part of his body, namely his front leg. This is a form of behavior habituation, and within 6 to 8 repetitions you will see that your horse moves to nip and then looks down at his leg. This training will make the behavior extinct within a short period of time.

Some horses will begin to show wariness at your feet being close to its legs once you use this consequence to biting. To offset the chance of this happening, you can habituate your horse to having your foot near his leg by rubbing your boot in that area. By doing this, the horse will learn that bumping is exclusively associated with his biting.

Most often, I find the issue begins by the handler feeding a horse from the hand, one of the most common mistakes made by horse owners in the world today. Many people hold the mistaken assumption that feeding treats will cause your horse to want to be with you and encourage affection. In fact, it causes your horse to want to be with your treat, not you, and if you are in the way they will nip or bite you.

If you wish to give your horse carrots or apples that is fine, but put them on the ground or in the feed bin rather than offering them with your hand. A horse is a prey animal, and as such, food is not seen as a ‘trophy’ in the same way as a predator, such as a dog, does.

11/08/2022: Good morning Monty Roberts. My name is Jerônimo Cubas Machado. I am not a horse breeder nor do I speak fluent English. I live in a rural colony in São José dos Pinhais, here in Brazil. I write to congratulate you for the intense life you have lived and for the extreme strength of will that you have shown in the difficulties imposed by life.

I didn’t even know you were, my daughter reads a lot, and the Portuguese teacher gave him this book to read as a school project, because he has a passion for animals and especially horses, and she was so excited that she practically told him every detail of the book . for me and my wife. I really admired your story.

My daughter has a horse too. We got it from a cousin of mine, when he was still a foal of 5 months. His mother had died of starvation, and my cousin knows that at home he takes good care of the animals. But I never had a horse or any big animal. Today this horse is 4 years old and has never been tamed.She said that she will try to tame him by applying her techniques.

In fact, I wrote just to express my admiration for you and for the life you live, I didn’t see in any moment in your book complaints about the difficulties that life imposes on a true warrior. Congratulations.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your letter and for your interest in better horsemanship. I encourage your daughter to immerse herself in the concepts of Join-Up® and studying my Online University.

I can assure you that there were difficulties in my life which were far greater in number and also in significance where my life is concerned. At 87, I can honestly report that I often go back to those bad times almost thanking them for occurring.

Many psychologists will allude to the fact that some of our most challenging times turn out to be gift-like. It would please me to sit down and visit with you regarding these experiences as I find that they often help my students find good experiences among the worst we have endured.

11/2/2022: After reading your excellent book Horse Sense For People, I plan to recommend the book and your blackboard system to many others. It is so valuable!

Unfortunately I don’t see how it can help my particular situation — but with your wisdom and experience, perhaps you can make some suggestions.
My younger daughter (now 45) has been completely drawn into a number of conspiracy theories, starting with anti-vaccine claims (e.g. that Bill Gates and Anthony Fauci collaborated to deliberately manufacture the pandemic) and escalating into other even more absurd theories.

I have studied the literature on how to deal with conspiracy theorists and moderate their behavior, and worked really hard at engaging my daughter in an ongoing conversation, providing her with bits of factual information that ought to cause her to reconsider some of her more extreme beliefs and intentions. To no avail. She seems to be dug in so deep, she is easily able to simply disregard any information that would challenge her beliefs. I’m concerned for how her poor decision-making is going to affect our grandchildren, who for a start are not getting the basic, routine jabs that protect against killer diseases.

I wonder whether you’ve ever encountered this sort of situation, and whether you have any suggestions for me.

A rather desperate parent.

Monty’s Answer: While this subject is not focused on horses and other animals, it certainly becomes an issue with our own species. It is my opinion that if someone becomes radically prone to categorically deny the value of one scientific recommendation over another, there are probably mistakes being made in both directions. It certainly is my opinion that no one of us should summarily accept the recommendation of anyone, whether they have strong credentials or no credentials at all.

In my opinion, there is only one solution to the issues you bring to light. When someone says “Take this vaccine or you may die,” if we are responsible human beings, we will look into every avenue of evidence that is available. It is my opinion that no one of us should simply say ‘no’ to everything or ‘yes’ to everything. As we speak, evidence is coming through that certain recommended vaccines are causing secondary maladies even more dangerous than those we attempting to cover.

Your daughter may be right more times than she is wrong. Likewise it is possible that she is wrong more times than she is right. It is my recommendation that you sit down with her and ponder all the evidence that you can gather. I have not had a vaccination for Covid but I must explain to you the sequence involved. I contracted Covid before there was a vaccine. On a doctor’s recommendation, I took four or five substances including one called Ivermectin. Within 24 hours, my symptoms disappeared and have not returned. I deal with the health industry on a regular basis and it seems that most of them rejected Ivermectin and were told not to mention it.

This approach seems very negative to me and I believe that a broader investigation of substances believed to help the pandemic should have been explored. It seems that most of the world was transfixed on creating an instant vaccine which would just cure the whole problem. I don’t know your daughter, nor do I know her attitude toward a complete study of all things possible in the area of health and treatments. I believe that the leading scientists became extremely narrow in their approach to this desire to find a cure for Covid.

I recommend that you take this answer and sit down with your daughter and explain that you believe that a broader examination of all treatments should be explored before one praises or rejects the early results of these treatments. In most cases, those who would follow your daughter’s line of thinking are often proved to be correct in rejecting until absolute proof is exposed. On the other hand, there have been many diseases where the first vaccine was extremely successful. My advice is to study without prejudice, accept solid evidence and reject casual theory.

10/26/2022: Hi Monty, I have been a fan & follower of you & your methods for over 30 years. I have incorporated my learnings from you in everything I do with horses. In fact I took on a horse 3 years ago, a very flighty & spooky TBx who now, with time & patience is a completely different horse. I also have a young connemara x cob, now 6, I’ve had her since she was 4, just backed.

My question is about her. She is so calm & quiet the problem is not to calm her, but to get her to move at all. Using all of your methods of Join-Up etc we have taken a wrong turn somewhere & she leans so much into pressure that the more you ask the more she pushes back. We have come long way & for me she now will move away from my leg, but only with short round spurs on, to focus the pressure.

But as soon as my 10 year old daughter gets on her she literally will not move. It’s like she just switches off. We’ve been down the pony club kicking road (lots of big kicks), tried just focused pressure with the spurs, it worked for literally two rides & again now she will not move. The more pressure applied the more she will push back.

Please help, how can we encourage her to move, not switch off.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. I know that your desires are admirable and I feel that you are trying to do the right thing by the horse in question. There is a percentage of horses who are into-pressure to the extent that they tend to encourage the traditional horseman to increase the pressure and to use objects which traditionally would demand the desired response.

Once these horses go away from pressure or a period of time, and then experience further pressure as time goes on, they will tend to reverse and take up their first response which is called positive thigmotaxis.

When the rider is alternately younger and the next one older and more demanding, the thigmotaxis horse tends to take up an almost angry response in the area of no pressure. Often times these horses are asked to become mounts for a young rider of limited skills. This decision causes these animals to smile and respond by going nowhere. Typically the demand on them becomes more harsh but they already know the game. The deeper the demand is, the deeper their tendency is to refuse a requested response.

If I were given this horse, the question is, could I cause the horse to respond more positively. The answer is a highly probable “yes”. However, these individuals are cunning and will wait for a rider who is slightly less experienced and will return to the undesirable characteristics in the beginning.

The use of my Giddy-Up rope can be explored on my Online University It is painless and one of the techniques I would use to get your horse going forward for me. It should be made clear that as soon as the Giddy-Up rope isn’t timed well, horses with this background will return to this behavior almost overnight.

10/19/2022: While cantering, my horse slings his head both directions plus straight up in the air. He was abused with a small bit that cut his mouth and in bad hands of a rider using a Mexican high port bit, plus spurs that caused bleeding in his sides. I’ve stopped all of that. I use the Dually Halter to help on the ground.

Monty’s Answer: First of all let me say, to blame the bit’s port is probably a mistake. It is the bottom of the bar itself against the jaw bones which form the floor of the horse’s mouth. In addition a large part of the blame can be attributed to whatever goes from the bit to the bottom of the horses chin. In other words I am referring to the curb.

The traditional horseman will use a chain or even a wire to create pain both inside the mouth and under the chin. When the reins are pulled the port actually rises above the tongue and it’s the pressure of the bars that meet the jaw bone along with the curb that causes the pain.

In the flight animal, sharp pain is usually the cause of the behavior you have described in this situation. I usually use a leather curb and mouthpiece that is large in diameter and rises above the tongue.

10/12/2022: My name is Christiane. I live in Germany, and since 1968 I’ve had a deep passion for donkeys and horses. In the riding school nearby, students and horses alike were often treated very rigid, sometimes even very cruel.

I thought at a young age, that there always had to be a riding crop or a longing whip, while working with horses. In all these years helping with the horses, and as my experience grew, I used less and less riding crops and just hold the longing whip in my hand while longing the horses. I was wondering how one could replace it and work the horse without it!

When you became famous throughout the world, I came to know of Join-Up and all the other treasures, you were ready to share! I want to thank you very, very profoundly, for never having given up, always then continued for caring for the gentle and kind way to treat this amazing creature of mother earth, by which we all are so fascinated, stunned and captured!!!

Thank you again, and all those who have helped you on the way, from the bottom of my heart, for creating such a world-wide functioning herd the horses can live in, feeling secure, carrying us and being able to serve us with a smiling twinkle in their face!

Much, much blessings and again thanks so, so much for this valuable heritage!

*Monty’s Answer: Recent experiences for me have proven over and over again that we must never say “You Must”. We can say “I would like you to” but when there is any force, it is consistently met with rejection by the flight animal. These concepts are proven to me every day.

As I have said many times, the wild deer have driven this concept more deeply into my brain than have all the horses in my life. Along with horses, deer are flight animals. I say the deer are 10 times flightier than Equus ever was. This, in my opinion, makes the deer a more effective teacher than the horses are.

If you watch my Online University you will see that I would recommend tying plastic shopping bags to the end of your lunge whip. It is more effective and the horses somehow tend to learn that it is not going to cause stinging pain. It is more effective and far more intelligent to utilize this action given to us by the horses themselves.

10/05/2022: I’m a great fan of yours and was lucky enough to attend one of your two-day clinics in Hungary a few years ago, if I remember rightly you said that a horse should not be shut in its stable for more than 12 hours in every 24, it sounds excellent, please can you give me some ideas for a routine that would achieve it here in central Italy.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. You can well imagine, the answer to this question must be accompanied by circumstances regarding the availability of stabling within your geographic area.

It just so happens that our California Horse Center is becoming a center for “motion” as an integral part of the daily routine of each and every horse. Please stay in touch on our media spaces to see a detailed explanation of what motion means to the daily lives of our horses. On Flag Is Up Farms in Solvang, California, where the California Horse Center is located, we’ve made enormous strides in the direction of Movement Smart Stabling that meets the physical, mental and emotional needs of horses.

Have a peek at our progressive horse keeping spaces in these videos: https://montyrobertsuniversity.com/lessons#subject_1969888317

Often I will hear that the answers to the challenges of horse housing are impossible to achieve given the circumstances and enclosures available. I believe that nothing is impossible where the lives of our horses are concerned. I am of the opinion that answers are there, it is simply often they are difficult to come by. Every problem has a solution if it is sought out through a mindset believing that anything is possible. Watch our media for a variety of ways to solve these opportunities for our horses.

09/28/2022: I have an Off The Track Thoroughbred (OTTB) who loves to bite, kick and is very pushy. I have been told by others to give a smack when she does that, however after watching your videos and your way of training I would prefer not to cause her any pain in order to teach her not to do these things. How can I teach her not to do these without touching her?

• Monty’s Answer:* Smacking a horse happens to go against my concepts for virtually every bad habit we can name. My textbook From My Hands to Yours has a section on the biting problems most often seen with horses. It is clear to me that I need a strong lesson on this activity, which should be front and center as a lesson for this format.

If a horse is biting, kicking, or otherwise engaging in negative behaviors, it is of first matter of importance to have the horse assessed by a veterinarian because these behaviors are sometimes triggered by pain, such as ulcers, which are so common in all domestic horses and especially race horses.

09/21/2022: Dear Mr. Monty Roberts,today I am writing you because I wanted to let you know that I gave my new born foal today the name Monty. I purchased his mom last year from a rescue place in Seneca SC , without knowing that the pony was pregnant, and his dad was a donkey ????.

We are going to set up an equine assisted therapy center at our SunHorse Ranch in Greenville SC that has a European standard . We are hoping we can have our opening end of this year. Furthermore, when our covered arena is constructed, I wanted to give the arena the name Monty Roberts Arena. However, we are still in process to build the barn , and an additional building with an apartment, therapy room, and a little cafe, where people have the opportunity to relax and wait during therapy sessions. It was always our dream to provide therapy with horses for children , adolescents, and adults with special needs and delay in sensory and motor skills.

When I started my journey with my own horse , and tried to become a good horse person, I had to read books and a lot articles about horsemanship and leadership because I did not have any knowledge about horses, and how to handle horses. Therefore, I tried to get a lot information that would help me to overcome obstacles with my horse. I really loved to see YouTube movies with Monty Roberts. Believe me, I met a lot other horsemen at this platform too. Besides, I visited a clinic with Buck Brannaman, and Chris Cox when they visited Greenville SC. Unfortunately, I didn’t find the time to see a Monty Roberts clinic. However, I always was impressed how easy it was for you horsemen to read , ride and handle horses. It was very impressive. Until today, I follow my instincts , and confidence , and knowledge , which I gained during the years with my own horse.

I am thankful for your shared knowledge , horsemanship, and leadership. Therefore, I wanted to give my very first own foal the name Monty, and my future covered arena the name Monty Roberts Arena because I believe strongly people like you have to be remembered because of the great legacy. You should know

I am not expecting anything from you, but I only wanted to let you know that your lectures and movies helped me to understand myself and my Quarter Horse, Low Bow, better. Now with little Monty, a new journey will begin.

Best wishes from
Isabella Burwell,
Bella Gioia with Monty,
Sunshine and Buttercup
(Palominos)
The Haflinger mares Cindy and Mindy,
Perrier (little pony), and my horse Low Bow.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your communication and ongoing interest. Obviously it is more than a simple Q&A. It happens to be the third communication I am answering this day. It is so clear to me that there is a strong need for me, in my 80s, to produce regular classroom formatted lessons.

Your communication speaks strongly to a burst within our industry for more professional information about the various circumstances met by horse enthusiasts the world over. I am in the process of putting this together and it’s people such as yourself who are strongly suggesting that I get on with it. Please communicate with me as to your thoughts regarding the information I’ve sent through to you.

09/14/2022: Dear Mr Roberts, I watch all your you tube videos. I think you are amazing! I am having massive confidence issues after a fall. My horse feels my fear and spooks when I get on. However, he is fine when my friend rides him. I didn’t fall off of Brodie, I fell off a riding school horse after a freak accident on a windy day.
Would you be able to offer any support? I’m absolutely heartbroken I can’t ride him. I’ve only had him since January and although he’s only seven he listens to every word I say. He’s very sweet and sensible. I scare him I think due to me being so nervous around him. He is an ex racer Thoroughbred. He was a slow burner and is very flat footed. He is quite lazy at times. Any kind advice would be amazing and I would be truly grateful.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. Not knowing your physical environment, it is difficult for me to make assumptions regarding spatial elements available to you. With that in mind I will assume that you could choose a small, quiet, safe place to ride. I would suggest an experienced horse person should be with you during these days of you coming back. A small pen in a building would be an advisable place to start. If you chose, I would invite you to send me a short video of a riding session and possibly I could help you further.

09/07/2022: I am a Mainer (lived in Maine) most of my life. But after my mom got sick, I moved to Lompoc, CA, to be with her. So I saw a parade in Solvang with the Mexican dancing horses, don’t know the word for it. I am reading The Man Who Listens To Horses! How do they train them? A mean way or lovingly? I can not put the book down. Thank you Monty.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. In no way do I want to blame anyone who trains horses without personally knowing and seeing what they actually do. Let me say that the Mexican Dancing Horses are typically trained by the oldest of Spanish methods. The Spanish Riding School moved to Vienna, Austria, over 150 years ago.

To say that the early Spanish methods were cruel is an understatement of the greatest magnitude. I am the first non-violent trainer ever asked to demonstrate my work in Vienna at the Spanish Riding School. It was difficult for me as there were many individuals who didn’t want me there at all. There was a strong attempt to cancel my sold-out demonstrations at the last minute of our stay.

The demonstrations went well and reports are coming back to me that the Spanish methods are being changed. At this time, the changes are minimal and certain maneuvers are being eliminated rather than changed. This is often how changes are made. I believe that once changes begin, the better minds tend to make these changes over generations of human beings.
There could be another book written about the extremely violent training methods which were utilized throughout this region of the globe. I believe we must let changes happen rather than attempt to force them to happen. Time will tell but I am confident that the old Spanish methods are on their way out.

08/31/2022: Hi Monty, I’ve followed your story from the UK over the past twenty years and would dearly love some advice please.

I have a 30 year old Arab x gelding who I’ve owned since he was 7. He’s the only horse I’ve ever owned, I saved for years to buy him as my parents weren’t in a position to afford a pony when I was a child. He’s very special to me and I love caring for him just as much now despite him being retired from ridden work for around 10 years now.

He’s always been very dominant in the herd and aggressive to other horses. He’s only 15 hands but that doesn’t stop him, he has a very strong will! He hates being stabled (I think because he sees himself as a leader) so he lives in a field 24/7 these days with access to an open stable/shelter.

He lives with a much bigger, much younger horse and has done for the past three months, so there’s just the two of them.

I’m struggling now because my horse is very possessive when I arrive and will chase, kick and bite the other horse. He’s arthritic now and I really worry he’s hurting himself as well as upsetting the other horse (who can easily move out of his way). My 15-year-old son comes to the farm with me and he’s just as possessive over him.

It’s almost like jealousy because my horse knows that when I’m there it’s food time, so I split the horses up to feed them their buckets. I’ve tried to set a routine so he knows to wait in a certain place but he gets so stressed and explodes into a charge at the other horse.

I’ve also tried ignoring them both and clearing the fields first before feeding to see if this helps, but the while time I am there he is so aggressive.

I’m worried there will be an accident, and I also hate him being so stressed at his time of life.

He’s never wanted for anything with me, but I do suspect that in his younger years he maybe had to fight for food. I believe this to be true because when I first brought him home he guarded food from me and was aggressive towards me. We overcame that over about two years and he is happy and healthy otherwise. He regularly sees the vet and farrier and has no issues. I do keep him on a low dose of pain killers for his arthritis just for his comfort.

Thank you so much for reading this long winded tale!! I would be very interested to hear your thoughts.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for allowing me to present a story to you that’s very similar. Shy Boy is now 30 years of age. That is very old for a mustang since they are unattended to by a veterinarian until they are captured and he was three years of age when captured in 1996. I have been through such a similar story as yours for the past two years now. At the age of 28 I wanted to give him a field partner as I thought it would be enjoyable for him since riding and most forms of controlled exercise were no longer in the mix. It worked fine for about a year and then we found that Shy Boy was too aggressive toward the mustang I chose as his partner.

It turns out that the partner grew to be much larger than Shy Boy but that didn’t matter when it came to Shy Boy controlling the partner. Shy Boy went into a fairly serious case of Cushing’s disease while with his buddy and angry about being medicated for his problem. My daughter Debbie talked me into trying a walk-out stable where he had a chance to be on his own in a 12×12 or a walk-out 12’x24’. This area he had to himself for about 18 hours out of a day. During the mid-day for about 6 hours he’s put out in a larger area of about 30 meters square and we call this a sand paddock. He has horses next to him in another sand paddock and these are horses he has become familiar with and they cause him no competition since they are fenced separately.

I can’t begin to tell you how much Shy Boy’s health has improved during this second phase of his old age. It is very easy to say he is far healthier today at 30 years old than he was at 29 years of age. You and I both know that physical life is something we will all eventually give up. Being happy and healthy to the last day should be our goal. Where Shy Boy is concerned, I believe we hit the mark. I would happy to spend time with you on my personal coaching system if you chose to get me more deeply involved with your horse.

08/24/2022: How do you determine what cinch or girth to use on a horse in Western and English disciplines? For Western saddles, most people I know are using the mohair string cinches and they seem to be about 5 to 6 inches wide and with the buckles about the level of the elbow of the horse. English girths are a bit easier to judge on what you need for length, but I have seen widths from 2 inches wide to 6 inches wide in various materials including stretchable neoprene web, leather, mohair, nylon strapping, cotton webbing, etc. Personally on my western saddle, I use a mohair string since. But that’s just because my family has always used those and we probably don’t know any better if there were a better way. On my English riding saddle, I currently use a variable width (2" to 4") neoprene with elastic nylon on one end for my English saddle. Is there a guidance that you would recommend for selecting cinches and girths?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for asking a question that gives me an opportunity to speak for the horses and their comfort. When it comes to any type of cinch or girth, my recommendation is always to choose the softest and widest for your activity. This is the better direction to go, rather than narrow and hard.

08/16/2022: We have a mule and a mammoth donkey we trail ride and the donkey goes slow on the trails and does not respond to kicking. I do not want to use a riding crop but want to ask Monty his recommendation how to make her move faster at certain times?

Monty’s Answer: Congratulations on your decision to not use a riding crop on your donkey. If everyone opened their minds to other possibilities as you have done, we would have a lot more good horse persons and a lot more happy horses.

I do have recommendations for you that I know will work if you are diligent to train with them consistently on the trail. It’s best if you can have your mule, or any other trail companion, travel more like your donkey does. Obviously asking the mule to follow behind and encourage the pace is an easy answer but I do not know if you have tried that.

Often I recommend to trail riders who have gaited and non-gaited horses to teach their slower horses to move more rapidly by ‘tickling the elbows’ of the slower horse to encourage them to keep up. Use the toe of your boot in the stirrups to touch the top of the horse’s leg at the elbow as it travels. This acts as an encourager for stepping forward, but without causing pain.

Also, the Giddy-Up Rope is a soft cotton braided rope of about three feet (one meter) that you can slap on your boot and swing from side to side. This can increase your chances to effectively over-ride what you’re dealing with, which is a genetic propensity to go a certain speed.

08/10/2022: Hello Mr. Roberts, how are you? My name is Evie and I am 12 years old. I lease a gorgeous Welsh Cob called Leo, and I love him to bits. He has had a bad experience with the horse box (trailer) when he was younger, when he went under the gate at the back and scraped the skin off his back, I was wondering if you have any tips on how to get him into the box. I don’t think he’s scared of the actual box, but the association of the box to coming off and scraping his back again. We tried to put him in a box and we struggled for ages, he was rearing and running away. Please can you give me some tips so that he won’t be scared.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for writing, Evie. It was unfortunate that Leo had a bad experience when he scraped his back on the gate of the trailer, but it doesn’t mean that his concern over the gate cannot be overcome. He needs to find that the experience of entering a trailer can again be without pain.

I recommend you park his trailer inside a paddock, blocking the wheels so that it can’t roll or tip. Then begin to feed Leo near the back end of the trailer. Day by day, incrementally move the feed closer to the trailer until eventually the feed is inside the trailer. When the trailer becomes a place of comfort, he will forget to consider it a place of pain.

Let me know if this works for you and Leo. Please send a photo of him inside the trailer. If you do your work right, he will be happy to be in the trailer.

08/03/2022: I need some guidance. One of my friends is asking my advice if there’s anything I could do or is even needed to do for her horse that sits down in the trailer when she travels with the horses. I can’t think of it being a good thing and just gets me thinking what causes this. She says she’s completely healthy but I haven’t encountered this before. This is what she wrote me (the translation isn’t good but I think you can understand the overall of the situation):

“Been doing loading exercises for a long time because in the trailer causes stress. Now, for the first time in a couple of years, we moved with the trailer and we decided to try (a short distance). The horses were in the trailer and the mare was still standing nicely when the gelding was on board with the hatches closed. On the way, there was a bit of a mess at the intersections and there we waited for that to clear, no worries, no panic and no rush. The hatches were opened calmly and the mare got up and backed up calmly out. Same thing the second time… I personally do not like this.”

Monty’s Answer: Are you kidding me? Is this a problem?! It is a problem of the first magnitude. This behavior can permanently damage rear quarters, stifles, hocks, and even the feet. As I heard the first part of this question, I was told we have a photograph of the action. I can’t begin to tell you how exact the picture was in my mind concerning what I was about to see.

This action and this position were exactly what I hoped it would be. I can confidently advise as how to deal with this particular action. This is called “positive thigmotaxis”. If we didn’t cover this behavior in the course you took, we should have. I sincerely believe that the action your friend is experiencing represents the #1 discovery of my career in terms of what we knew about equine behavior before my time and what we know now.

It will be impossible to completely edify you regarding my recommendations however I am confident I can come close to recommendations as to actions I will suggest you become familiar with on my Online University. If you go to the lessons on positive thigmotaxis and starting stalls you will have a good start on understanding this behavior.

Congratulations! You have a horse that mimics the behavior of the greatest racehorse that ever lived, Secretariat. The photo I have of your horse is virtually exactly like the one of Secretariat in the starting stalls. Fortunately, he could get off his bottom and giving the other horses a 15 lengths head start he could still win the races. I had not yet developed the procedure I use during his racing career. Since then, I have created an instrument I call the T.O.P. Pole.

If you remember any of Secretariat’s races, you will probably recall that the Belmont, his third leg of the Triple Crown, was won by about 70 lengths. The reason was that this time he didn’t sit down. There were only a few horses in the race and the judges allowed Secretariat to be the last horse loaded in the gate. Friends told me that the trainer had requested of the starter to punch the button as soon as Secretariat was in the stall. The video shows that this is what was done. He didn’t have time to sit down, broke with the other horses and won the race by one of the largest margins ever achieved.

None of this makes any difference to the fact that it is a dangerous activity for horses to commit. Our lessons on the University regarding the use of the T.O.P. Pole which should be utilized to the fullest in the case of this horse. I would love to follow on with the circumstances surrounding this training. One of my recommendations would be not to squeeze him into a single stall position during the course of this training and only move the partition close to him as the training proceeds. I welcome you to send me videos pertaining to the earliest TOP Pole training, and I will be able to follow this training until the horse is trained. This is a gift to me; it could be a learning aid to anyone who has a horse.

07/27/2022: Can you do Join-Up with a yearling?

Monty’s Answer: I recommend Join-Up sessions after the foal has been weaned and no longer calls out for his mother. Accomplishing Join-Up is a great way for your young horse to enter that period of his life when his mother is no longer a factor. Properly done, it will promote an understanding between weanling and human that will be beneficial lifelong.

I recommend two or three Join-Up sessions on consecutive days. I have seen significant value in bitting and using a surcingle at this stage. They have proven to simplify the starting process later, and schooling with the Dually halter, together with these sessions of Join-Up, is particularly helpful. Be gentle and patient with foals as they are small and ultra-sensitive.

Doing too many Join-Up sessions at this stage is usually counterproductive. It is a little like often telling a child the same story; your youngster will come to resent it and exhibit gestures of anger. Prudently accomplished, two or three Join-Up sessions will allow you to live by the concepts of Join-Up throughout the relationship with your horse.

07/20/2022: How do you stop a horse from being pushy and slamming you into things? A friend of mine has a horse that is like this and is now thinking of rehoming it. She has had enough.

Monty’s Answer: Horses need to be trained to walk, stop, back up and stay out of your space with a smile in the line, which means you let the horse have a bit of slack in the lead line. The slack in the line allows the horse freedom of choice and the possibility to learn from the consequences of his own choices. We will start this lesson with protocols for helping your horse learn to stand still on a loose line.

To begin this training exercise, stop your horse in a safe location (where there is good footing and no distractions) and step back away from him, leaving a smile in the line. Stand simply looking at your horse and when he moves any foot, school him with the Dually Halter. This means tightening the line and using the halter to guide the horse firmly back to the spot where you originally placed him.

Repeat this process until your horse stands for twenty to thirty seconds without moving a foot. Having accomplished this goal, step forward, give your horse a rub between the eyes and lead him around in a circle, allowing his muscles to relax. Then place your horse on another safe spot and repeat the process.

You can begin to build on the requirements so that in time the horse will stand for three, four or five minutes remaining completely motionless, without moving a foot. Training the horse to find value in standing still is fundamental. It doesn’t matter whether it’s for the veterinarian, the farrier or a rider mounting, remaining motionless is a part of reasonable ground manners for every horse.

For further study, there is a recommended series in my lessons on the Online University highlighting a horse named Kadina. It is important for us to focus on the goal of upgrading our horsemanship. With this series of lessons called Reward and Reverse, we have come up with some new practices to help you upgrade your horsemanship. What is ‘reward’ when you train with the Dually Halter? Reward is a smile in the line.

07/13/2022: I have been training and starting horses for more than 27 years. I have started training wild mustangs now. Most have been a pleasure to work with. With that being said, I have gotten one that’s a 9 year old Cibola Trigo Mare. She was a sales authority so BLM no longer can help. She is fearfully aggressive. When working with her, she has charged at me and actually got ahold of my face (I am fine). Since then we have continued to cautiously work. I do have a halter on her now and can lead her very well. I can also touch both sides of her up to her hip. If she feels the least bit threatened she’s blows up and has attempted to come at me. I just don’t know how to get past this. Or do I just need to give her more time. I just don’t know what to do.

Monty’s Answer: At age 9, any horse of any sex that remains violent toward humans should find another occupation than dealing with humans at all. I appreciate hearing from a person who helps bring mustangs into successful relationships with humans. It is my tendency to praise these individuals wherever possible. The fact is I want them to stay healthy and experience purposeful training while confident of a positive outcome.

A 9 year old mare who is attacking humans places my hopes in great jeopardy. In no competition that I know of is it considered fair to announce a violent confrontation between individuals – one of which statistically weighs between 150-200 pounds while the opponent may weigh as much as 1250 pounds. An older individual who has chosen this lifestyle that has developed over several years, is not making an intelligent choice.

07/06/2022: I am helping gentle five mustangs and they have made great progress. The owner only uses the Dually Halter with the mustangs. A suggestion by a neighbor who has experience with horses was to connect the reins on the bottom ring under the horses chin to steer/rein while sitting on them. What is your opinion about this? To connect the reins at the same point under the chin seemed counter intuitive to me.

Monty’s Answer: To me this recommendation is not acceptable, to connect the reins on the bottom ring under the horse’s chin. I have ridden many horses connected to the bottom ring when I knew the horse very well and it just seemed easier at the moment. It is not safe and is far less effective when communicating with the horse.

I have no idea why anyone would make this recommendation because I see it as having no positive reasons for its acceptance. I use the side rings often and with greater safety and more positive interaction than the bottom ring would ever generate. It would be interesting to hear the reasons for the recommendation.

06/29/2022: Hello Mr Roberts. English is my second language so sorry for the mistakes. My horse is very tall (16.3). About two weeks ago, I was saddling him in the stable and was on my way to go out with him. He walked on the door step and it cracked and made some noise. He got very scared, he went up and hit his head on the top. He backed up very fast and fell down on the floor with his saddle on. Since then, he gets very nervous when I put the saddle on him inside. When I want to go out, he stops and when he finally decides to walk, he goes out very quickly. We tried to put the saddle on in his stall and it ’s not better. Do you have any suggestions to help me? I am in Québec, Canada. Thanks in advance!

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your inquiry. Let me say that all horses who become frightened for their lives will take many repetitions of the same conditions in order to overcome the original fear.

Let me translate what I believe your horse would say if you asked him to repeat the experience in question. I think it would go something like this “While putting a saddle on and walking me out of my stable, I stepped on a rattle snake. It felt like he bit me but I am not sure about that”.

Circumstances which create a fear such as this must be repeated many times before the fear subsides. I am a firm believer in incremental uplift. In this situation I might suggest repeating the same movements with no saddle several times over. I then might put a saddle pad on and repeat in the same way. I personally would follow that with a surcingle. Some would call this piece of equipment a roller.

Make it a day or two of doing the same thing over and over again for an hour of so. It is my opinion that your horse will then realize that the creaky board was not a rattle snake and produced no pain.

06/22/2022: Sorry. Every horse I’ve ever gotten on takes off with me. I don’t believe in negative reinforcement at any animal. My sister died in her 50s and she loved horses. I’m now 65. For some reason I want to know how to ride a horse. Anytime I asked a person that knows horses, "how do horses think ?” They can’t tell me. They are beautiful creatures. I’ve lost my whole family from cancer, ALS, suicide, and taking care of my mom at home (she has Alzheimer’s because I don’t want her abused in a nursing home. She’s in late stages.) I really want to know horses. I don’t know how you can help me. I’ve always loved horses, but feared their size and not understanding them. I could be helpless. But I have a strong attraction to horses. I want to hug them and get to know them. Do you have any suggestions? I’m reading all your material. I have land for horses but I want to understand them fully.

Monty’s Answer: What I read in this question is deeply involved with the fear that you have about riding a horse at all. Reading this question carefully, what I glean from it is that when you’re on a horse, you are not relaxed. Horses taking off with you is a function of you telling them to do so.

Fear will tighten even the smallest of muscles and nerves and whether you like it or not, you are asking the horse to run away. My suggestion is that you ride a lot in very small enclosures. Gradually then choose larger places when relaxation is the centerfold of your desire to ride without horses running away.

06/15/2022: I have read all your books and followed your training for the last 10 years and am a member of your Equus Online University. I also had the privilege of meeting you at your ranch during a soldier’s retreat. I have used your Join-­Up and Follow-­Up to gentle over 50 horses in the last five years. Some have been green broke, some have been untouched and others abused. They have ranged from 2 years old to as old as 15, and your methods have always worked. I am now working with a 2 1⁄2 year old Tennessee mare that was turned out by herself, after being weaned and has had no contact with other horses.

During Join-­Up she gave all the cues and came into me and did follow up without hesitation. While she has never been haltered, after two days of working with her in the round pen I have been able slowly gain her trust. She has allowed me to touch her and rub all over her but she still has not allowed me to place the line or halter on her although she is very interested in the Dually Halter and long line and will even touch it with her nose when asked. I believe once I get the Dually on her, she will respond and progress quickly. I intend to use a chute, like the one in your gentling pen to get her used to the halter, or is this a mistake?

Furthermore, I don’t believe I have achieved Join-­Up in the true sense in that although she gave all the signs of Join-Up and Follow-Up, there appeared to be a disconnect between what she does and her truly understanding why she is doing it. I am not sure how to explain it but it is like she instinctively goes through the motions, but doesn’t understand the why of it, if that makes sense? So my question is, is this because she was not socialized with other horses or am I completely missing something?

Also, are there other things I should look for or expect from her in her training that I have not encountered with other horses I have gentled? I have searched the Equus Online University Forum and Question and Answers and didn’t see this specific issue addressed but did see your response to orphans in which you stated “Orphans present us with challenges that are so individual we must use our experience to tailor our training to the challenge on hand.”

This is the first horse I have ever worked with that was not raised with other horses and I would really appreciate your thoughts. Finally, have you ever worked with unsocialized horse and if so do you believe it can become a good reliable trail horse with the proper time and training?

God Bless, Jacky O.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. Let me reverse your inquiry by stating that I do believe that you can train virtually any horse to be a well trained trail horse. Since this is a mare we are discussing, it is probable that she will tend to defend herself if crowded into a small space by a group of other horses. This is the nature of Equus the female. If trail riding is desired while riding alone, there is obviously no problem. A small group of individuals familiar to your mare increases the potential for success in creating a safe trail horse. Just remember that Equus the female will tend to protect herself from invaders.

With regard to the Dually Halter, I am pleased to hear that you have a chute available. This is extremely helpful in putting on the first halter. I would suggest that you create an artificial arm. Use that arm to cause your mare to accept a human-like object in all areas of her body that you can reach safely. The neck and head are critical in this effort. I suggest you use a long line or a long rope and pass it over the neck of your mare while in the chute.

Use the artificial arm instead of your own as much as possible. Once you can place the rope around the neck of your mare, tie a bowline knot in it so that one can begin to alter the position of the head and neck with the rope. Completing that tie with about 3-4 feet of bailing twine on to the top strap of the halter and begin to pass the halter over the neck allowing it to hang down on the far side of your mare. One can begin to hook the halter with the artificial arm so that you can hold it by the buckle.

With the halter there, begin to massage her nose area with the glove on the end of the artificial arm. The glove should be soft and filled with material that would pad it so that there is no hard bumping of the nose area. You will have fun then using innovation to figure out how to get the halter over the nose.

The use of a conventional halter is easier to place and will habituate your mare to accept the movements so that later putting on the Dually Halter will be much easier. Keep us posted as to the progress. Have fun and I think you will be surprised as how quickly your mare will wear the Dually Halter. Continue to watch our Equus Online Uni lessons to watch for the areas where you are referring.

06/08/2022: I’ve had my head strong, stubborn mare all her life. She turned nine in April this year. In my 25 years of horses, I have never met a horse quite like her. She’s either angelic or a demon. She doesn’t have a middle ground. I feel I have done my absolute best for her. Learnt with her. Adapted with her. But the one task we cannot conquer is loading.

She either loads. Or she won’t.

There has never been an accident, or trauma, no bad experience. It seems to be when she chooses. I have used the Dually Halter and Monty’s techniques from Monty’s Equus Online University. I seemed to have cracked it for a few weeks. And now we have gone right back to square one. She will rear and throw herself over backwards. She will dart down the side of the trailer (so I blocked that off) I load her in the sand school, with the trailer parked in the gateway so she knows if she’s wants to leave it’s through the trailer. IF she goes on at home, there is absolutely no guarantee she will load at the venue to come home.

I am desperate for any help you can provide. We do endurance rides together, which she seems to enjoy. It’s most definitely her “thing”. Unfortunately due to the way her twin was lying on her in the Womb she has a underdeveloped shoulder so I cannot school or jump her as she finds this incredibly difficult. She has been checked and passed by her vet and has regular physio every four months.

I am aware that most of her behavior is probably down to me, as I babied her a lot as a young foal, so I have spent most of my time since breaking her at year 3/4 trying to rectify that.

I am prepared to learn as always, I am not prepared to give up on my mare.

I hopefully await a reply

Monty’s Answer: It is my opinion that I have never received a question where the owner has completed as many of my recommendations as there are in this case. The one thing I didn’t hear is parking the trailer so the only place she’s fed is in it.

I often say that you want your horse to WANT to load in the trailer and if there is any way to feed her exclusively in the trailer, they will usually take a different attitude in the trailer. Try it and get back to me. I want to be of help.

06/01/20222: This is a very interesting question that comes into my life with regularity. Most of our readers know that I have worked with wild deer for 50 years now. The flight animal will occasionally be struck by jealousy. I believe it has to do with their formative years which were completely dependent upon a herd mentality. Within the tight-knit herd grouping, there will be individuals who grow very close to one another. It is fairly often with deer that they will show extreme jealously when others come around.

We all know that people show this behavioral pattern and I have witnessed horses become close to me and warn people off when they come near me. I realize that most professional horsemen will say that this is just an opinion and that horses are not able to like people enough to express jealousy. I have agreed with myself not to speak of it very often because to many horsemen it sounds made up. I know it’s true and at the same time I realize that this behavioral trait occurs in a very small percentage of horses.

In people, often times they become attached to people whom they can trust.

05/25/2022: After 35 years with horses of all types, polo teaching, show jumping, racing the horse has taught me a lot. Yet there is for me a simple way to define the horse. The three R’s. They react, respond and remember. Never think. The day a horse thinks you won’t see me for dust! Would you agree on the definition?
Mark Paterson

Monty’s Answer: You pose an interesting question and it is clear to me that we have a lot more to do to fully understand our horses. There are times when I believe they think a lot, and then there are times when I believe they were simply reacting. I would have preferred that you ask, ‘Can they plan?’ Then I would clearly respond that I don’t believe they plan anything. Having said that, when we watch the wild horse herds move high in the summer and down low in the winter we can wonder whether or not they plan for the future.

05/18/2022: I am in the unusual position of having twins. My colts were born May 27, 2016, and are thriving, against all odds. They are physically perfect, X-rays are all clean despite having rubbery legs at birth. They were about four weeks early. I have found no information on training them. They are exceptionally bonded to each other, much more than to their brother who was born the day before.

They were on stall rest for the first six weeks of their lives and handled extensively. I work with a trainer who had the privilege of spending time at Mr. Roberts’ farm and he has been part of our handling of the foals. My specific question is, should I separate the twins?

I am concerned at how bonded they are, they move in tandem in the paddock, but I don’t want to traumatize them by separating them too young. If I separated them I would be inclined to move one off property. They will be gelded in the next few weeks. Any guidance you could provide would be much appreciated.

Monty’s Answer:* Raising twin horses is a task quite unique. Separating them is absolutely essential. You are right in thinking one would have to move off the property. This task is best accomplished if each of the youngsters has an adult horse as a companion. It is necessary to take some extra time so that the twin chosen to remove from the property has a chance to become acquainted with its companion.

I have found that an elder gelding is the best companion for these babies. If possible, one should continue to handle both individuals. Keeping them occupied and friendly toward a human will tend to reduce the amount of trauma that will inevitably be felt by the separated twins. Pay close attention to the safety factors of the eventual property, fencing and footing in particular.

Good luck and keep me posted on your progress.

05/11/2022: I have used your methods with several wild mustangs with great success. However, I recently obtained a six-year-old untouched mare from the BLM. My issue is that this is the first mustang I have worked with that wasn’t halter broke to begin with. I have tried Join-up with her and get all the signs but she won’t come in to me.I know it’s me, so should I just keep trying until I get it right or should I work on getting her halter broke with the Dually first? As always thanks for your assistance and God Bless.

Monty’s Answer: I am happy to answer this question because I have lived through that same span of time with mustangs and I know them as well as anyone could. With very few exceptions I believe that all horses are capable of Join-Up®. It is a part of their personality. I sincerely believe if I was with your mare for a short while, she would come to me. It is the study of their language that you need to master.

Without watching you it’s hard for me to discover the glitch you have in your language pattern. Please take the opportunity to watch all the Join-Ups that you can on the Equus Online University. It is my opinion that you can do this if you study.

05/04/2022: Hello Mr. Roberts. My name is Joe Shoremount. I’m 32. I live in Virginia and work as a Police Officer. I grew up on a horse farm watching my mom break young horses. She would always use your methods and that stuck with me. Growing up I always rode horses with my mom on the trails. As I got older and moved away my interest in horses seemed to fade away.

Recently I have rekindled my love for horses. I have have my own, a buckskin Quarter Horse named Boone who I love dearly. Working in the profession that I am in I suffer from high anxiety at work and often at home. When I am with my horse all of that fades away. I have read your book, The man who listens to horses. This has sparked my own interest using your methods. My goal is to get a colt someday, raise him and train him using your methods. I just wanted to let you know that you have really inspired me and I look forward to following your teachings as I continue down this path.

Best wishes, Monty, and thank you so much for all that you have done!

Monty’s Answer:

Thank you Joe for the encouraging words. Your letter and actions are a perfect example of what I want for the world. Your goal to start a young horse with no violence is what I have worked my entire life to hear. You will learn so much from our equine friend. I hope you will share your progress with us.

04/27/2022: How do you stop a horse who has been allowed to scratch and rub his face on people from doing it?

Monty’s Answer: The Dually Halter will be extremely helpful in creating a willing animal with appropriate ground manners. It will assist you with the process of leading forward, stopping, backing up and respecting the space of the handler: all essential procedures in the training of good manners. When we get this work right, we build a foundation for a good relationship throughout the life of our equine friend.

It’s imperative that you allow the horse to make the ‘mistake’ first, then school the horse back out of your space and then give a long slack in the rope in order to give your horse the choice to repeat the issue or not. Anytime he goes into your space beyond a point at your shoulder as you lead him, be sure to school him back out of that space until he learns what you expect of him. Whether it is leading or standing still, he should understand the boundaries. Horses are large and this issue can become a problem if not communicated by you clearly and consistently every time you are together.

04/20/22: We have a young pony who we rescued when he was only days old, as he’d been dumped in a field. At this time, we had to be very hands on because he was quite sick and he required twice daily antibiotic injections. Once he was well enough to mix with other horses, my mare took on the responsibility of big sister, cared for him, taught him to be “horse” and when introduced to the rest of the horses at the yard, she protected him.

As he was highly handled as a foal for a good three months, he’s been very easy to halter train, he likes going for walks and more recently we’ve been long lining him of which he moves forward.

He’s due to turn three in May and of course it would be great if we could back him, however we feel groundwork is the important first step and we’ve been trying to teach the theory of lunging to him over the past 6 months.

As soon as we step to his side to be in the correct position for him to move around us, he plants his heels in and refuses to move unless we step back or someone walks the circle with him. We are just not sure whether this is the correct way to teach him or where to go next.

Do you have any advice for us?

Monty’s Answer: From the words you have written me, I have concluded that you haven’t read a great deal about my concepts in the past. I often try to use the words “Single Line Lunging is the second worst piece of horsemanship in the world." I generally add that “Striking the horse for pain is the first worst piece of horsemanship in the world.”

If exercise is desired while your feet are on the ground, it is my opinion that Double Long Lining is the answer. On my Online University, you will see lessons on the problems caused by Single Line Lunging and the educational qualities of Double Long Lining. All horses will eventually resist the pressure of lung whips or even the presence of the human body or the sounds to attempt to achieve forward movement.

In a large percentage of horses tested they will eventually go in to these pressures and even use hind leg kicking to attempt to free themselves from the fallacy of Single Line Lunging. Please study these lessons and observe closely that when the horse is single line lunged the head and the neck curve outward of the circle. This physiologically dictates that the spine, hips and shoulders are all curving in a direction counter to the circle they are traveling. This creates body soreness and is one of the most misunderstood characteristics of equine movement.

You will be amazed at how your horse will improve after you install the lessons I am suggesting.

04/13/2022: Dear Monty, I have a horse that, when mounted, tries to bite other horses that overtake him. He also kicks where ridden in a group. Do you have any advice? Thank you!

Monty’s Answer: It is interesting to deal with this particular problem. The reason for the deep interest is that it is a natural defensive behavior and not one naturally accumulated by Equus. This behavior was seldom known prior to Equine domestication. In the herd, the rulers would let the followers know early on what was acceptable and what was not. Your horse could easily be one of those born leaders that is going to display this behavior regardless of human influence.

It would be fun to play with these tendencies adhering to my non-violent concepts. I have had success with this behavior by turning them away from the conflict and cantering them for a sustained period of time. Recognizing that topography might insist upon very small circles in this cantering effort, I actually found that the small circles were beneficial. They seemed to increase the effort expended while being admonished that their aggressive behavior is not desired.

I have had some fun in the past watching horses say “Oh, alright, it simply isn’t worth it to control that other disagreeable horse.” In my opinion, one cannot successfully eliminate all desires to control other animals but I have actually watched horses begin their anger-like behavior and then simply relax and walk on. I interpret that as them saying “Oh, Monty is just going to make me canter more circles. It isn’t worth it.”

I remember a couple of horses that disagreed with the circle cantering but successfully controlled their behavior by backing up for a sustained period of time. These reversals were often in the direction we were trying to travel so they were completely unrelated and did nothing but cause them to exert energy in a way that was no advantage to them. Both of these procedures were often successful with only 3-4 repetitions.

I suppose it is unnecessary for me to remind you that no violent striking of the horse has ever been very successful whether it was from yourself or the person riding the offended horse. Striking of any sort usually produces no improvement.

04/06/2022: You may have answered this many times, but why not a rope halter? I’m just curious.

• Monty’s Answer:* This is a very difficult question to answer because I need a lot more detail. I have used a rope halter hundreds and maybe 1000s of times in many instances whereby I desired control of a horse. I have tied or tethered horses with rope halters. I have lead horses with rope halters. I have ridden horses with a rope halter. And on many occasions I have used rope halters while clipping or shoeing horses.

The confusing part of all of this is to inform you that there are probably 40 to 50 different configurations of rope halters. It would be silly for me to list all of the variations which exist in the world of rope halters, but naming a few is OK. There are braided rope halters, and there are cotton rope halters. There are nylon rope halters and many other types of rope employed in the halters themselves. There are rope halters that grow smaller under pressure and those that don’t. There are rope halters with dozens of configurations of hardware used in the making of them.

To answer the question “Why not a rope halter?” would take at least 2 to 3 dozen answers to make any sense. My Dually Halter happens to be made of a flat nylon braided strap because I find it less intrusive. The Dually shrinks when the horse is less than cooperative. It then expands when the horse gets it right. The portion that institutes the correction is a round rope that is very soft. The Dually Halter on the schooling ring should never be used to tie the horse up. The birth of the Dually Halter was actually created by a rope halter that I first came to use in the mid-1940s.

Once again it would virtually take a book to examine rope halters of all design and usage. A mustang expert taught me how to use a rope to successfully gain more control over wild horses than any other piece of equipment that I have ever utilized. If you would like to think of specific questions to ask about specific rope halters, I would be happy to attempt an explanation as rope halters have existed for hundreds of years.

03/30/2022: We are doing Endurance riding with our horses. However one of our geldings refuses to jog in-hand at the vet. Any help please?

Monty’s Answer: There is no question that many horses are reluctant to jog freely in hand. Other than endurance horses, one of the most important factors in showing horses in conformation classes is how they trot in hand. During our early years of marriage, Pat was quite active in showing a particular mare in the halter division.

In those classes, if a horse was reluctant to travel freely with the longest stride possible that horse was seldom the winner. The Dually Halter will eventually solve this problem but one must persist in training virtually on a daily basis.

Use a long lead (at least 12 feet or 4 meters) and trot rapidly away from your horse. You will eventually be pulled to a stop and sideways by a horse that doesn’t trot with you in a manner which is free and easy. Like so many solutions, just smile, go to your horse, give a rub between the eyes and then run once more about 10 feet and meet the lead of the horse who is reluctant to lead as freely as you are moving.

The Dually Halter becomes uncomfortable when repeatedly drawn to a smaller size but comfortable again when the lead is in a loose position to form a ‘smile’ in the line. I have yet to find a horse that fails to free up the trot when being lead.

If one is training a donkey or a mule, it takes longer as they are not born to lead rapidly. Both of those species are intelligent and will eventually learn to lead quite well. Most horses will learn in a very short period of time that leading freely is the better option.

03/23/2022: Hi, my daughter’s horse is refusing to have his head collar on in the stable, ears back, turning his back on us. He is quite happy to have it on in the field. He had to have the season not competing or having lessons as he tied up in May and just been hacked 6/7 days a week as per the vet’s instructions. Just wondering what this change could be. Any advise would be very gratefully received.

Monty’s Answer: With regard to any activity whereby something is attached to the horses head, can be dealt with in a similar fashion as a head-shy issue. The horse you describe has probably been treated roughly by someone in the stable, but no matter what the cause, the facts still remain.

Please go to lessons of Head Shy Horses where the horse refuses to allow a bit to be put on. You will find that you need a squeezable bottle of honey and a kitchen wooden spoon that you hold with the honey on the narrow end and your hand on the broad end. One can easily see on these videos how the horse becomes fixated on getting the stick in his mouth. The use of the stick then moves to the halter and in record time he will ask you to please put the halter on.

03/16/2022: Hi there, I have been doing carrot stretches with a new young horse. Now he is looking for food in my pockets. How do you you suggest I do his stretches without the treats? This is the first time I have ever hand-fed a horse and it’s not going so well, as you rightly say! Also, treating him in the trailer while I let him stand in there and get comfortable? Is that wrong too? Thanks heaps!

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. Any time a human allows a horse to eat anything that is attached directly to the body of that human, it is wrong. Stretching can be done far more effectively when the food object is placed on a stick. I suggest that this stick is at least six feet long. One can feed a horse on a stick about three feet long and still have them attached to the stick rather than the human.

Your trailer aspect is easily corrected by putting the treat in the manger of the trailer. I have a student in England who has successfully trained her horse to stretch in every direction recommended by an equine physiotherapist. The horse in question will bend his neck both to the left and to the right without moving his feet while the treat is placed very near his tail. He will also stretch his front legs forward and put his head nearly to his hocks where he takes the treat.

Stretching straight upward he can reach well over 6 feet (2 meters). While all this is trained, he never offers to bite or even examine the human body for a treat. I have literally watched him start to do his stretches as he is approached with the stick. All of this took a few days to establish the pattern but within a month he was successfully doing his stretches.

As far as what to use and how to attach it to the stick, it is very simple. The stick is complete with a clamp on the end a little like a large clothespin. Those are available in DIY stores. With regard to the selection of treats, one can establish what your horse likes the best, but carrots could be his choice. My English student has made a deal with a young man that works in a local grocery store.

He sets aside apples that are a bit unsightly and they work beautifully. Pears, horse cookies, and any food product that your horse seems to prefer would be appropriate. Her horse has broadened his desires and I literally watched him get excited when a new treat comes along. I tried these exercises with my own horse and believe me it works “a treat”.

03/09/2022: My colt is a 15-month-old Welsh section D. I’m doing light in-hand work and trying to get him to respect me and know that I’m boss. He kicks out with his front leg or comes at me side ways, bucks or rears when he wants his food or doesn’t want to do something. I make him go back until he stands. Have you any tips you can give me please?

Monty’s Answer:* This is an unusual situation where two questions, back-to-back, brought to me conjure up the same answer. My first piece of advice is to visit every lesson the MontyRobertsUniversity.com that has to do with the Dually Halter. The Dually Halter is actually most effective with horses that fuss about leading forward. You should prepare yourself with a pair of gloves to stand your ground with the Dually Halter. Stand about 10 to 12 feet (3 meters) in front of the horse to prevent injuries to yourself, should he leap forward.

Every 5 to 10 seconds of standing, you should move his body left and right while the line is taught. You should pull him toward you when you are about 45 degrees from the body line of the horse. When he moves forward, quickly allow the line to go without contact. Give the horse a rub between the eyes and repeat several times per day until the horse learns that a tight Dually Halter is uncomfortable. Moving forward, the horse finds far more comfort. The horse will then begin to cooperate with the Dually Halter for whatever purpose the leader has.

It would be advisable to send short videos through from time to time and ask me to respond to the action they depict. Do not eliminate reversing your horse. It is very effective to back the horse up often and firmly allowing the Dually Halter to be relaxed in a positive manner.

03/03/2022: Hi Monty, I recently got a horse from an owner that didn’t work correctly with the horse, they dragged her when leading her and pushed her into a corner to catch her and now she completely stands still when I want to lead her. I don’t want to pull her because that is what they did, she throws her head up when I want to put the halter/bridle on her and she bumps into me or she tries to push me out of the way when I try to walk her. She is very forward going, she never lunged before, she is backed but I am still afraid to ride her because of the way she acts at the moment. I really don’t know what to do and I need some advice.

Monty’s Answer: My first piece of advice is to visit every lesson the MontyRobertsUniversity.com that has to do with the Dually Halter. The Dually Halter is actually most effective with horses that fuss about leading forward. You should prepare yourself with a pair of gloves to stand your ground with the Dually Halter. Stand about 10 to 12 feet (3 meters) in front of the horse to prevent injuries to yourself, should she leap forward.

Every 5 to 10 seconds of standing, you should move her body left and right while the line is taught. You should pull her toward you when you are about 45 degrees from the body line of the horse. When she moves forward, quickly allow the line to go without contact. Give the horse a rub between the eyes and repeat several times per day until the horse learns that a tight Dually Halter is uncomfortable. Moving forward, the horse finds far more comfort. The horse will then begin to cooperate with the Dually Halter for whatever purpose the leader has.

It would be advisable to send short videos through from time to time and ask me to respond to the action they depict. Do not eliminate reversing your horse. It is very effective to back the horse up often and firmly allowing the Dually Halter to be relaxed in a positive manner.

02/23/2022: I have this two-year-old Standard Bred filly. I can pick up her front hooves with no problem and clean both fronts. But when I start to approach her rear, she freaks out just by me approaching her back end. I have tried everything I know to do yet she won’t let me or the farrier pick her back hoof up with out a fight.
I don’t know why she is like that. She is very calm about letting me lift and clean her front, but don’t go near the back one.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question, it happens to be at the heart of a very large majority of horses, at least in the early stages of causing them to cooperate with the human being. First of all you should know that the human being is a predator. It is also true that the flight animal ‘horse’ does not feel comfortable with a predator approaching the rear end of the body. With these factors in mind it becomes necessary to work so that the horse trusts a human being in areas near the hind quarters.

The Dually Halter was invented for many reasons. One of the primary circumstances would be to negotiate the very movements that you are describing here. The first thing we humans must do is relax, smile, have your horse held with a relaxed line and then approach the rear quarters. When the horse reacts as you have described one must simply tighten the line and school the horse firmly with the Dually Halter by backing up.

Once this has been accomplished it should be repeated until one can approach the rear quarters and even move a hand down the hind leg on each side of the horse in question. The next move would be to attempt to lift the hind leg. It seems to me by the words I’ve read that this would cause a negative response. First, smile and then school firmly by backing up. Once this has been completed on both sides only move the next step forward when your horse calmly offers the leg in question.

After one is able to clean the feet and pick up both hind feet with a relaxed horse should one move forward the next step. The next step is to place the hind feet over your thigh as a farrier would do. This should be accomplished in 2 to 3 sessions for most of the horses I have dealt with.

Please understand that these elements are clearly dealt with on my Online University which is available by going to https://www.montyrobertsuniversity.com/library I would be happy to view your videos and respond to the action portrayed so that I can be more aware of the potential dangers a horse such as described could produce. https://montyroberts.com/mrilc-courses/personal-coaching-by-monty-roberts/

02/16/2022: I have a lovely leopard spot half Appaloosa half Friesian gelding, four years old. He came to me last June and I had professionals teach him nice manners and the basics – and now he is with me.

He is gentle, built like a Mac truck, and quite sensitive to aids (except canter) when I am riding him – but he has an adamant reluctance to canter. The trainers who worked with him were more firm than I – and yet had trouble with that.

When I lunge him he will trot until the cows come home, and any speed you like as long as it is a trot. When asked for canter he gets faster, hollow and flat and when I ask for canter (repeatedly), I have to make the lunge shorter and regretfully flick the lunge whip at him, and if he does canter I have to let the lunge line out as he is very heavy on it – and he either does a few canter steps and resumes the trot, or let’s me know he is going to leave. We are in an arena unfortunately. I do have some panels and could possibly make a temporary roundish pen in the arena.

Should I put in some gentle side reins to help him stay together? Should I try this only from on top?

He is a very lovely natured boy and I don’t want to chase him into the ground and damage his kind nature.

Many thanks,
Susan Thomas B.A.
Official Reporter, RPR
CART Provider
Captioner

Monty’s Answer: I certainly like your last sentence better than the rest of your question. It is clear to me that you have chosen a horse who was bred for hundreds of years to trot. The Friesian horses are bred to trot all day long. Their canter is typically not much faster than their trot. When breeding these animals to get a recognizable Friesian trot, certain anatomical structures are very different from most horse breeds. These specialists at the trot are often very uncomfortable at the canter. This is what you’re dealing with and to attempt to change the nature of this animal is physically and psychologically damaging.

The spinal column and its connection to the pelvic girdle are created specifically for trotting. When these horses canter it is often quite painful. If you were driving a carriage with a team of Friesians you would probably be very uncomfortable when they attempted the canter. Typically these horses can trot at 15 miles per hour and even more. A big advantage is they can do it all day. Their canter is very uncomfortable for them and they will canter generally for no more than about 100 yards and then return to the trot. You are fighting Mother Nature when you insist upon the canter from the horse like you have.

02/09/2022: I just wanted to know, my 6-month-old foal is getting sassy now and she won’t let anyone touch her belly to groom without kicking or biting, she is lovely other than that. Any advice?

Monty’s Answer: This is going to be a difficult question to answer without the ability to demonstrate what procedures I will use. I will attempt to outline the procedures in words. The first statement may seem ridiculous but it works. The foal needs to be touched everywhere that she currently cannot be touched. You need to rub her neck and around her head without being bitten. One needs to touch her side, ribcage and belly without being kicked. The question is, “how can you possibly do this and stay safe?”

I have a facility we call the Gentling Pen and it has two well built chutes in it. My students can reach through between the boards and touch the wildest of horses. They can carefully pass bamboo sticks through those boards with scary plastic bags on them. Once the horse has accepted the fact that the human can touch them without the need for fighting back, they learn quite quickly that humans can be accepted into their life.

While it is less than perfect, one can create a chute with a safely made gate and if you go to my Online University, there are several segments devoted to gentling horses in this fashion. It seems to me that that would give you ideas for how you might approximate the same activity for your dangerous foal. I do not recommend continuing work without the safety of the person doing it. Getting kicked can be lethal. Getting bit can be very painful. Neither of these activities are educational for the horse.

02/02/2022: Hey! I’m a student at your Equus Online Uni and I have a question for you! A horse I train almost does Join-Up, he joins me but when I want to rub his face he goes away fast. He is very head shy, shy in every way really. He does all 4 signs in the pen, and he joins me, I can turn around and look down, but when I lift my hand (closed hand) very slow to rub, he runs away! What to do?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you, this is a good question for me to address because I have experienced that sort of reaction many times in my career. What we need to do is find the character who twisted his ear. We might look for the human who hit him with some weapon or other to cause the head-shyness. Horses are not born head-shy, particularly when it’s a predator like a human reaching for this sensitive part of their anatomy.

Anytime the horse spooks and runs away, we should smile and recognize that it is either his nature or an aggressive human that caused the problem. Send him away more each time he flees from you. If the circumstances are severe one might clip to a Dually Halter and when you reach to rub between the eyes and he blasts away let the line go over your hip and then pull him back to you and attempt to rub again. Repeat this process until he is certain that you are not going to hurt him.

When the feeling of security finally enters his brain, he will rejoice with the rubbing between the eyes, I can promise you that. One can almost hear the horse say “Wow! I can finally trust the human to rub and not cause pain.”

01/26/2022: Good morning! I was wondering what your thoughts were concerning particular horse gentling training methods, specifically tying a horse’s lead to a tail ring and tying a leg to his neck. I have never had to use these training methods before, I just saw a trainer using them recently. I allow the horse to think for himself and increase the pressure until he does what I’m asking after I have taught him what I want him to do. I was just curious what your opinion was on these methods. It definitely gets the job done quicker sometimes, but I don’t feel like it helps the horse in the thinking and learning process. Thank you for your advice, I greatly respect and appreciate it!

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. One should remember that I was born in 1935. In that day and time I saw horses heads tied to their tail while the trainer used a pipe to beat the neck saying that it was a way to cause the horse to cooperate with a lighter touch. Further I saw horses head tied to a hind foot. I have even seen horses with hind legs tied up until the ropes broke the skin and they were standing in a pool of their own blood.

There is no question that many of these techniques were used in the early days of BREAKING the horse. I could list a dozen different forceful techniques that I came to dislike very much. The main goal in my training is to cause the horse to want to fulfill the requests made of him. None of these forceful techniques will achieve that goal.

In that regard it was interesting that you said that sometimes it gets the job done. I would ask you how you consider the job being done when the horse is only doing it because he’s frightened not to. If you saw the movie “The Horse Whisperer” you watched as they tied the horse to the ground and covered him with a plastic tarpaulin. They walked on top of him to bring on subserviency. In NO WAY would I consider that that was getting the job done.

I invite you to continue to explore my concepts and become a witness of the partnership they create in the absence of violence. You should know that I was in competition at four years of age while watching people use extremely harsh methods to BREAK their horses. I learned to love horses and to cherish the opportunity to work with them. I never considered horsemanship to be a job. For me it is a way of life and never a job.

01/19/2022: I read with interest the question “who’s the boss.” Well for me, since about 1993 when I saw Mr. Roberts for the first time, the horse and I are on equal footing. I have had my best times when Babe and I knew what we both were doing. Running barrels, Endurance or just pleasure. After watching Monty I learned that horses are pretty sharp. And I learned to listen she always knew what I wanted. Thank you Monty.
James E. Jensen

*Monty’s Answer: Thank you for the opportunity to respond to your findings. At this stage of my life, the greatest pleasure I can think of is to realize that I am beginning to reach my goal of leaving the world a better place than I found it for horses, and for people too.

If one is to make a difference then we must influence people because people are the intermediary between horses and human. We can estimate that I have worked with 70,000 horses in my life but please stop and think how many horses I am influencing with the hundreds of thousands of people I have encouraged to go non-violent. Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II made it clear to me in 1989 that I was to get my methods to the people who would then create a better world for horses.

01/12/2022: My new youngster paws the ground when he eats – not straight away but after 10 minutes. He has a hay net but he really paws the ground hard – not good!

Monty’s Answer: Horses were undomesticated for 50 million years. During the course of any given year, horses find food very difficult to come by at certain times. Often they find roots and parts of grasses that they have to dig up from the ground. This action will cause some horses to live instead of starve.

There is a tendency in all horses to strike the ground while eating their favorite foods. Over the centuries they often found seeds by scraping the ground. These horses survived instead of dying of starvation. Nature clearly placed a connection with digging to eating. This is not always seen in this day and age, but with some horses it is still there.

If possible, you could get a rubber mat or softer footing to place in the area where you feed your horse.

1/5/2022: Just a note on people dissing Monty’s methods. I’m working with an abuse case mare who I’ve likened to a bomb with a smoldering lit, short fuse. From owner #2 to #5, her life has been one of abuse. After her weaning she probably went to a trainer for rodeo work and then sold. The cowboy who bought her ran the rodeo circuit until he ran out of money and luck here in Davie, Fl. He sold the mare to a Latino who was no-nonsense. He sold her to the present owner who is an alcoholic and none too gentle when she’s lit.

The woman’s intent is to hand the mare over to me and I’ve been trying to gain her trust with remarkable results. Kindness is one heck of an aid for a horse that’s known nothing but abuse, fear and pain most of her life. I want to try Monty’s methods when she is handed over to me. I have his book. I’ll know when I have all of her trust is when she allows me to handle her hind hooves.

Right now no farrier can get near her, yet she does allow me to handle her fronts. For the moment I can grasp her fronts to shape the edges, but not the flats. She’s a mess, but I’m getting there. She’s gone from being a man-hater to allowing me to touch, stroke, pet, brush, comb and pick out her fronts, all in less than 11 months. I see her as a long-term love project given her first 20+ years. As I figure it, she’s changed hands every 3+ years with the current owner being the longest at 10 years.

Are there videos available for farrier training given how badly farriers have roughed her up? For the moment if someone tries to go for her hinds, they better be wearing a Tony Stark MK46 special suit.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. I was taught at an early age not to blame people for any opinions that they have regarding concepts that are new to any given industry. One must realize that those who learn old fashioned breaking methods will quickly admit that it is all they were ever taught and all they know regarding the training of horses. A minute’s thought would indicate that likely those individuals know nothing of my non-violent ways and if the concepts become the norm then they are basically out of business. These people will find any way to distance themselves from new concepts.

With this in mind it is quite clear that dealing with the horses legs and feet is one of the most critical areas of the work we need to do. The anatomy of the horse allows them to defend one of the most vulnerable areas of their body. Horses are world class kickers. They can strike the human with their front feet and control any actions they might find dangerous.

Fortunately, this is a remedial behavior I have dealt with in many of my lessons on non-violent training. There are several lessons on these concepts on my online university.

12/29/2021: I recently acquired a horse called Biscuit who was destined for euthanasia because he spooked when his 76-old-owner was tossed trying to mount while a truck came down the road with a tarp flapping. The rider never contemplated his surroundings, broke a hip severely, and decided to euthanize Biscuit. The owners are lovely, uneducated friends of mine. I said just let me take Biscuit away, and I did!

This horse had been ridden daily to their mailbox a mile down the road. As long as the lead mare was on the ride, or being ponied, Biscuit would oblige. He was massively herd bound and not interested in his human caretakers. The owners fed him treats to find connection. Ears would be pinned flat upon receiving his treats, but he would never offer to bite nor kick. He wouldn’t pin them at me, I wasn’t giving him treats though!

I’ve always been attracted to the underdogs, the throw away animals. I’m a bird rehabber, horse lover and owner. I’ve ridden this fellow in his environment, sitting some big unplanned maneuvers. He unloaded from my trailer like a FERAL, unhandled horse. I couldn’t touch him for two days.

When I move him gently in my round pen, he’s got an ear listening. I can look down and invite him mentally and he willingly stops, turns toward me, and gives me his attention. If I say his name, he will approach and stand. I must help him! He wants to be good. On the trail, I am able to sit a 180-degree spin (I attended many reining clinics!) but will he ever be safe out in the trail world?

I have him now, and he isn’t going to die. He has some good things glimmering through the fog. But man is he reactive being separated from his mares. I’ll end by asking: The ex herd bound, aloof, reactive horse.. How do I help him?

Monty’s Answer: The list of unacceptable behaviors in this particular question brings forth circumstances that are extremely dangerous. I will not blame the horse. If only I knew all of the circumstances leading up to the character you have described I would probably find a list of human interactions destructible to any horse, any where. I am going to answer this in the safest way I know how.

First let me say that I would never recommend riding this horse in any area except one that has appropriate secure fencing and a safe soil surface. I would eliminate any other horses in this enclosure with him. I would suggest doing videos of the procedures used in riding and handling this character. I would be happy to receive videos and reply. Or you could send them to a knowledgeable trainer you might know.

In addition, I would suggest viewing as many lessons on my Online University as you can possibly find time for. I would recommend The Mounting Block. I would also recommend all of the spooky lessons on the Uni and I would never handle this horse without a Dually Halter.

Please remember that he is a horse. He has four legs and the brain of Equus. His patterns of behavior have been generated by human beings. I promise you that in Join-Up, he would come to me without my calling him by name. Please do as much as you can to discover the techniques I have learned in these 86 years of mine. You will find him very different to what he was with his former owners.

12/22/2021: I have a four year old Missouri Fox Trotter gelding who is just a sweet as can be, we have done Join-Up and it has worked wonderfully. I have ridden this horse and he was great, but just lately and mind you I’ve only had him a couple of weeks, he drops his head so far when I try to ride him and he paws at the bit. I have never seen this or had this problem in my life. I have tried him in a d-ring snaffle and even with that he does the same thing. I put him in the round pen and gently walk or trot him and he does the same thing. I am just not sure what to do. I had his teeth floated, I have tried other bits and he does the same thing. I am not sure what to do at this point. Please help.

Monty’s Answer: First of all, I appreciate that you care enough for the health of the horse’s mouth to be sure that it is normal. Once the physical aspects have been tended to, I recommend the D-Snaffle with a surcingle and elasticated reins. Adjust the length of the reins until you have the horse extremely flexed, but for no more than five minutes.

Then make adjustments that would be about 5 minutes of work in each adjustment all the way from super-flexion to reins that are making very little contact with the mouth at all. Under these conditions I have found that every horse that I have dealt with the problem you described, has eventually carried a long list of bit styles and a desirable flexion. These procedures are outlined in my textbook From My Hands to Yours.

I might say that I am sure I have worked with well over 100 horses that had a tendency to paw at their nose when bitted up to work in circles. One should expect acceptable steady flexion for 5 to even 10 minutes before riding in a bit.

12/15/2021: I vastly appreciate your work, I’ve bought and read a number of your books and spent a year with your Online University, and I’ve got a Dually Halter.

I’m curious how you reconcile the advice in the post about introducing the bit with some honey on it with your oft-repeated assertion that horses not be fed by hand or given treats by hand. How long does the spoon need to be to make it clear to the horse that it is completely distinct from the human body?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. It might be interesting to hear that some horses need to learn to like honey. So far I have never met a horse that didn’t learn to love honey very rapidly. As you saw on my Monty Roberts University lessons, I used a wooden spoon and put a few drops of honey on the handle end. I don’t believe in feeding a horse from the hand, so I say that the longer the spoon handle is, the less likely you are to create a biter. The horse will associate the honey with the spoon and not your body.

Once you have the horse comfortable and happy with the honey and the spoon, put a drop of honey on the mouth piece of the bit that the horse is refusing to take. Some of the stories I could tell about exceedingly dangerous horses who refused the halter or the bit, would seem virtually impossible to a person who hasn’t had this experience in their horse handling career. Please write me back and let me know how it goes.

12/08/2021: I have 5-year-old mare that, when in a round pen, will change direction and turn into me and sometimes so close I can touch her, but she won’t Join-Up or let me even touch her. I’ve had her in the round pen five times now. She listens to what I want but will not let me touch her or even come close enough to put a halter on. She doesn’t give me any signals as far as dropping the head or licking and chewing. What else can I do?

Monty’s Answer: This is a question that I must answer because it would drive me crazy to leave you in your current state. If what you have is a horse, then she will go in a round pen without turning in to you close enough to touch. She will give the signals of her own language and she will do Join-Up.

If I have done Join-Up with approximately 70,000 horses in my time, I should certainly know whether there is a horse out there that certainly not Join-Up. All horses will Join-Up and all horses will use the signals I have outlined. It is the human in the middle of the pen that is the problem.

Please study my lessons in the art of Join-Up, get it right and your horse will do the things you are outlining. There are many video lessons to support your learning on my Equus Online University. I am as sure of this as I am that I am a human being. Let me know if I can help further.

12/1/2021: I recently got into a debate of sorts with someone on an animal Facebook group I’m part of. The person lumped Join-Up® with shock collars and racking shoes on Saddlebreds. I spoke out saying Join-Up uses horse behavior to connect with horses, and builds trust (this has been my experience in training horses since starting using Join-Up in the 90s). The person then threw a bunch of study citations at me. I have not yet gone through all these studies to see if what they found actually means Join-Up is as bad as other aversive training methods. However, I thought I would reach out to you to see what your position is on this and if you are aware that people are calling Join-Up aversive.

Monty’s Answer: It is clear that anyone who would equate violent behavior with Join-Up® has the intention of justifying the statement that I would say, “Your horse needs to know who is boss.” Since 1949 I have never struck a horse or caused them pain during the act of Join-Up or in fact at any other time. The person making this comment simply doesn’t understand Join-Up or perhaps feels a need to justify the acts of violence they have used during the training of their horses.

One other mind-set of some trainers might be that horses should be left alone to do whatever they want without a human to influence their decisions in any way, shape or form. This is analogous to stating that a parent should never correct a child for any behavior whatsoever. There is a scientist/professor in Australia who has influenced a generation of students who don’t understand Join-Up at all. They have produced a plethora of biased science papers. He is also a very entry-level horseman.

There are educational studies that have aligned Join-Up to a form of violence that they term ‘aversive training’. One can use this sort of term or simply say that it is the trainer’s way of saying “It is negative behavior.” My life has been guided by the natural behavior of horses since about the age of 10. The mustang mare I wrote about in The Horses In My Life was my professor. I accepted the fact that she was there to protect her young ones and to guide them to a behavior that would serve them best throughout their life. Join-Up is what I saw year after year and in many locations through out the Western United States. It was not what some mares did, it was what all the mares did no matter their location or background.

Join-Up includes the expression of negativity when you send the horse away. Your shoulders are square, your eyes on the horse’s eyes and it’s true that I have concluded that they feel you are driving them away and isolating them from their particular body of friends. When the mind of the horse changes, there is a far more important factor expressed by the human. Turning away to a 45 degree angle, dropping the eyes, and closing the fingers expresses an enormous message of positivity. Rubbing between the eyes, I have concluded, is the ultimate in approval of the actions which preceded Join-Up itself. That is the conversation, not aversive training.

With eight years of university training, mostly in human behavior, I learned that the disengaged parent was most often the parent of delinquent children. I never had a professor advocate for physical violence in order to express discontent with a given activity. I have concluded that the good professors advocated for an understanding by the child of agreed consequences that would come their way should they break the rules of our social structure. This is the reason that I came to believe that the mustang mares in the desert knew exactly what they were doing when they sent the youngster out of the herd. Believe me, they were there should their offspring enter a ‘danger area’.

Many times I watched a mare run out of the herd to gather up a youngster and run with the entire herd away from wolves, coyotes or a mountain lion. It seems to me that when these dangerous conditions threatened, there was an even better understanding by the offspring of what could happen if they continued their bad behavior. Hitting is for the hitter. A loud voice is for the vocalist. And neither are for the youngster who is simply frightened by these forms of behavior modification. I watched the behavior of eleven world champions in Western competition go ‘positive’. In racing, my championships are very near the 100 mark. Each of these clearly wanted to do their work.

Students using my methods are moving through competition to the extent that the world of competing on horseback is changing dramatically and clearly in line with the concepts I have brought to the horse training world. Simon Stokes (Germany), Denise Heinlein (Germany), Jake Harris (UK), Terry Pendry (UK), Kelly Marks (UK), Joanna Lowes (Wales), Ron Ralls (USA), Phillip Ralls (USA), Zane Davis (USA), Jason Davis (USA) have been extremely successful using the concepts that the horses have brought to us globally. It isn’t just that the violence is being reduced, and while that is a major factor, it is also that the principle concepts of Join-Up are guiding the forward march to violence free training.

Don’t allow the world of naysayers to randomly look for ways to minimize my concepts. They are not really mine, are they? They are the work of 50 million years of Equus Caballus who is begging us to get it right so that they can enjoy the world of horsemanship just as we do.

11/24/2021: I have a question for Monty regarding my horse Ted. Ted is a rescue and we have finally developed effective communication and a beautiful partnership. I have noticed a correlation with his defensiveness re-emerging at very specific times. It is related with his needing to urinate. I understand how this discomfort makes him edgy, as a nurse. He will only urinate in his paddock. I assume it is related to safety and he loathes splashing of his feet, he’s an incredibly neat horse.

I knew race track trainers at Golden Gate Fields that used to train horses to urinate pre-race or pre-exercise by whistling but have absolutely no idea how to train for this. I’m hoping you have some guidance and recommendations. I have attended the last 3 consecutive years of The Movement and am in awe of your innate ability to hear the horses and meet their needs. Thank you so much for your time and consideration!

Monty’s Answer: This is an area I have become very familiar with particularly through the racing industry. You are probably not aware of the fact that in Argentina the Thoroughbred race horses are never allowed to urinate in their stable. It is a unique industry with responsible people living nearby for every three or four horses that they are in charge of. Questioning these men, I learned that they train the horses to urinate only in a container on a stick. This is a very nice way to keep the stalls dry and these men have learned how to train the horse to use the container 3-4 times per day with precise timing. This is an extreme condition that isn’t necessary with pleasure horses.

So far as training the horse to urinate on the whistle, one must first realize that his feet need to be in the proper area so as to decrease splashing. Watch for the tell-tale pausing of the horse and stretching with the front feet that is normal. When this occurs, ride or lead to the soft area and begin the whistling before there is urine being passed. The two factors, soil and whistle, will bring about urination in almost every case. It isn’t a major mistake to miss it by a little bit but gradually you will learn how to line up these idiosyncrasies so as to cause urination which is predictable.

Whistling is effective as it sounds like water meeting water. You could whistle for your horse but there are more habit related activities than simply whistling. Activity, exercise and time is essential to habituate urination. Ride your horse for the period of time that is normal for you. Moderate exercise is a good way to build for the onset of urination. If one has an area which discourages splashing it is a good thing. A mound of sound will do the job under normal circumstances. A couple of wheel barrel loads of sand will often do the trick. As soon as your horse feels the cushion under his feet and hears your whistle, he is likely to urinate.

After each race in America, there is a urinalysis on each of the horses in competition. A portion of each urination is captured in a container by a veterinarian. It is then analyzed so that any drugs in the system would be exposed in the urine collected. Most people don’t realize that this goes on after each race, but I have been there and watched it many times. Naturally this is right after pretty extreme exercise and generally calls upon the urination process by giving small amounts of water during the cooling out process. The horse will then begin to stretch out while walking and let them know that it’s time to make their collection.

You will probably be the best friend of whomever cleans your stall. If you play with this theory you will be meeting the needs of your horse as well. The reason he chooses the stabling area is that it probably is the loose dirt factor telling him that the urine is not going to hit a hard surface and splash upon his legs. He is obviously a neat character and will be grateful for his own sand mound if you choose to follow these directions I have outlined. It is so gratifying to me to learn that their are horse owners out there that are interested enough to learn the what the horses need, thank you for that.

11/17/2021" As I progress through my relationship with horses, you are often on my mind. I am a true believer in natural horsemanship; using fair, consistent methods, trust, working together and asking. The rewards are too numerous to articulate, but of course, not necessary to explain to someone who already understands. My love and joy for these animals grows daily. I am continuously humbled.

I am basically alone in my beliefs at a barn where they still practice pain, intimidation and fear as motivators. I have often manipulated situations in order to protect a horse. It’s hard. It’s heartbreaking. It makes me angry. Then I think of how you have had struggle. And how far you’ve come. And how much you have brought to horses. And how much has progressed. It keeps me going. Thank you for laying this groundwork. I believe very soon it will be unheard of to be violent to a horse.

Thank you from the bottom of my (horse’s) heart for your bravery, endurance and courage.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your declaration. First I would like to say that without being rude, there is no such thing as natural horsemanship. I know what you mean and it is my belief that you are referring to non-violent horsemanship. It is simply my opinion that all horsemen should know what is natural for the horse so that we can come closer to their comfort zone.

Horses existed for almost 50 million years before any form of domestication or training was introduced to them. We should be well aware of this and grateful to the horse for accepting our requests in terms of leading, being ridden, groomed or simply picking up their feet to be shod or having their hooves cleaned. To me it is imperative we know what they go through for us.

It took me a long time to realize that being angry with people for how they treat their horses simply activates them to fire back at us. I have concluded that making a good example of good horsemanship is far more effective than acting out against someone we believe is being unfair. For the longest time people said to me, “You’re so lucky, you just get the naturals.”

I suppose ‘naturals’ has contributed to the term natural horsemanship but in fact we should think of our selves as guests in their world and realize the wonders of what they do for us. Without violence horse reward us with great energy and an attempt to give us the best of their ability.

It is wonderful to hear you say that very soon we will see no violence toward horses. At 86 I realize that I am the first to publicly state that active violence is never the answer. If only I could see the end of violence toward horses in my lifetime, it would be the greatest gift I could ever imagine. While that is highly unlikely all of us can hope it comes very soon.

11/10/2021: I am about to begin training a small little cob, about 13hh. He’s really frightened of the head collar. Do you have any advice? I know it’ll be a long road and it will all be built on trust. Many thanks.

Monty’s Answer: The problem you have outlined has consistently been the second easiest problem that I have approached globally. Often times it is to put a bit or bridle on but the methods used by me would be very close to the same for the head-collar (halter). My Online University has over 650 lessons on it at this particular time. One of the lesson series features the principles I use to put a bit or bridle on the horse in question. One should review that lesson and use these concepts. I will briefly outline for those who do not want to view the video lesson I have outlined.

It is that I request the horseman to visit the local grocery, get a large wooden spoon and on your way to the checkout, buy a large bottle of honey. One can quickly imagine that when the halter is held up to the head of the horse, there has been in the past a significant problem if the horses won’t allow it. If you first get the horse loving to lick honey off the spoon and then slipping it through the halter nose band, very quickly the horse will put his nose through there to get a good lick of the honey. Do this in incremental steps so as not to cause a nervous or negative reaction. Here is the Online University Lesson link: https://montyrobertsuniversity.com/training/2031188623

11/3/2021: I wonder if you could give me any advice please. On Saturday I have an Irish Sports Horse (gelding – rising 3) arriving but for the first time he will be on his own, and I wonder what to expect and how to help him settle in with no buddies. I have one goat in the stable next door. In three weeks I have a little mare coming from a rescue sanctuary, to be his buddy, but I’m unable to get her just yet as they are closed due to Covid-19 lock down, and they are not allowed visitors from the public. The stables are at my home. Thank you, any help would be appreciated. I purchased the Dually Halter and it arrived today.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. Your description of the circumstances around the arrival of this new horse would represent an opportunity rather than a challenge. When your horse arrives, try to make as much time as possible to spend with your new friend. Try to set it up so that the time is spent in a relaxed environment without challenges of any sort. It is my opinion that a human can be a better friend to a horse than a goat might be. I love goats for this purpose but primarily they are best used when the adult finds it difficult to spend the time when a new arrival occurs.

Spend time, walk your horse around the property, lead your horse in and out of the stable. The passageways and resting places should be visited as many times as you can, and as a human you should make every effort to reduce your heart rate through diaphragmatic breathing, to rub the horse and walk away and then back to the horse with the lowest possible heart rate, adrenaline and cortisol levels. As time progresses I think you’ll find your horse happy to see you coming and therefore will be a more cooperative partner for you.

10/27/2021: Does the Join-Up method or a variation of the method work for dogs as well?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. One must remember that dogs are predators. Over the millennium they have learned how to love another predator, human beings. This is only true however, if the human being deserves their love. The police dog might well tear a suspect to pieces while he loves deeply a caring trainer.

Dogs have been declared to be Man’s Best Friend and they certainly can fulfill that designation. Like any other animal we must earn love trust and dedication. The Join-Up® method is specifically designed to communicate in the language of Equus. Those actions to create the same response with dogs must fit their lifestyle which is significantly different than horses.

10/20/2021: Hello, Monty, I certainly appreciate your system of kind training. I haven’t much experience with horses, having only ridden a few times in my long life, but I do love them.
Will you be annoyed if I ask you for some help with a book I am writing? I only need an answer to one question. The book is an historical fiction novel. Here is my question. I’m writing a novel…my protagonist falls off his horse and disappears into a portal (he’s a time traveler.) Would the horse run off, or would it wait for a while for his person to return? If it would wait, about how long would it wait?

I have never been accused of taking flights of fancy before writing this book, and it just happened. So I’m letting it happen. (BTW, the 13-year-old son of the protagonist performs the duty of his father’s horse shire in the Battle of Kings Mountain in the Revolutionary War.)

Best Regards to you, and thank you if you can answer this question.

Nancy Bennett

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much. Scientific studies have shown without a doubt that horses want and demand a safe place to be. If that horse that you describe views you as a safe individual to be with, he’ll stay. Not for a few minutes, not for an hour; he will wait for you for a week, but for what he cannot assess.

10/13/2021: I have a two-year-old stud colt. He fights us to put a halter on. He will raise his head, bite and push because he doesn’t want the halter on. We leave a halter on 24/7 to avoid going through this every time. We need to break this so we can take off and put on the halter. Can you help with some ideas? Thank you.

Answer

Thank you for your question. I would start this answer off with a request that you listen to my answer with the idea that there could be many slightly different techniques depending upon the horse in question. What I will try to do is give you a scenario that has worked many times in my past.
The first thing that I would suggest is that you school the horse with my Dually Halter until there is complete respect shown by the horse. The procedure should ultimately cause the horse to back up readily in order to get relief from the Dually Halter. When leading forward and stopping your body, the horse should immediately stop and then back up as you move your body closer to the horse’s shoulder. If he fails to back readily, school with the Dually until he does.

When your horse will walk rapidly with you, stop and back up, then begin to make left and right turns intermittently punctuated with stops and reversals. When this has been achieved with complete cooperation, one can begin the educational process of causing the horse to accept any halter at any time. Leave the Dually on the horse, get a large normal halter and begin a process, asking your horse to accept the large normal halter over the top of the Dually.

Should the horse refuse to allow the larger halter to go up over the nose and buckle behind the ear, school with the Dually once again and repeat this process until you receive a reasonable non-violent response from your horse. It is then that I begin to use my tricks. At that time I would gather three or four large wooden kitchen spoons and a squeeze bottle of honey.

With the Dually Halter in place, reach over your horse’s neck and grab the crown piece of the extra large halter. Ask your horse to receive it over his nose and if you receive any acceptance at all, hold the large halter in place and allow your horse to mouth the handle of a wooden spoon dipped in the bottle of honey. If he is an exceptionally tough horse, one might ask him to lick the spoon before you attempt to put the halter on. Some horses need to learn to like honey.
So far I have never met a horse that didn’t learn to love honey very rapidly. Once you have accomplished the above suggestions, you might ask someone to help you because it can be difficult only having two hands to work with. When your horse learns that each time he pushes his nose through the opening on the halter, he gets to lick the honey, I am certain he will follow you all over your property asking you to put a halter on him. It has worked for me 100 percent of the time.

For those reading this answer, I might say this same procedure works with a few drops of honey on the mouth piece on a bit that a horse is refusing to take. Some of the stories I could tell about exceedingly dangerous horses who refused the halter or the bit, would seem virtually impossible to a person who hasn’t had this experience in their horse handling career. I don’t believe in feeding a horse from the hand, so I say that the longer the spoon handle is, the less likely you are to create a biter. I have a two-year-old stud colt. He fights us to put a halter on. He will raise his head, bite and push because he doesn’t want the halter on. We leave a halter on 24/7 to avoid going through this every time. We need to break this so we can take off and put on the halter. Can you help with some ideas? Thank you.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. I would start this answer off with a request that you listen to my answer with the idea that there could be many slightly different techniques depending upon the horse in question. What I will try to do is give you a scenario that has worked many times in my past.

The first thing that I would suggest is that you school the horse with my Dually Halter until there is complete respect shown by the horse. The procedure should ultimately cause the horse to back up readily in order to get relief from the Dually Halter. When leading forward and stopping your body, the horse should immediately stop and then back up as you move your body closer to the horse’s shoulder. If he fails to back readily, school with the Dually until he does.

When your horse will walk rapidly with you, stop and back up, then begin to make left and right turns intermittently punctuated with stops and reversals. When this has been achieved with complete cooperation, one can begin the educational process of causing the horse to accept any halter at any time. Leave the Dually on the horse, get a large normal halter and begin a process, asking your horse to accept the large normal halter over the top of the Dually.

Should the horse refuse to allow the larger halter to go up over the nose and buckle behind the ear, school with the Dually once again and repeat this process until you receive a reasonable non-violent response from your horse. It is then that I begin to use my tricks. At that time I would gather three or four large wooden kitchen spoons and a squeeze bottle of honey.

With the Dually Halter in place, reach over your horse’s neck and grab the crown piece of the extra large halter. Ask your horse to receive it over his nose and if you receive any acceptance at all, hold the large halter in place and allow your horse to mouth the handle of a wooden spoon dipped in the bottle of honey. If he is an exceptionally tough horse, one might ask him to lick the spoon before you attempt to put the halter on. Some horses need to learn to like honey.

So far I have never met a horse that didn’t learn to love honey very rapidly. Once you have accomplished the above suggestions, you might ask someone to help you because it can be difficult only having two hands to work with. When your horse learns that each time he pushes his nose through the opening on the halter, he gets to lick the honey, I am certain he will follow you all over your property asking you to put a halter on him. It has worked for me 100 percent of the time.

For those reading this answer, I might say this same procedure works with a few drops of honey on the mouth piece on a bit that a horse is refusing to take. Some of the stories I could tell about exceedingly dangerous horses who refused the halter or the bit, would seem virtually impossible to a person who hasn’t had this experience in their horse handling career. I don’t believe in feeding a horse from the hand, so I say that the longer the spoon handle is, the less likely you are to create a biter.

10/06/2021: Are you hopeful about the path forward in terms of horsemanship and communication between humans?

Monty’s Answer: Circumstances of the past two years or so have lead me to be very confident that the world is finally seeing non-violent horsemanship as an advantage in causing horses to perform with a clear indication of enjoying their effort. There have been many decades where I felt it was going to be an impossible task. Recently however the victories of my students as well as professionals who have read of my work are winning major competitions en masse. At 85, I feel extremely lucky to have lived long enough to witness this change.

Polo, racing and the world of Western competition are leading us in the area of non-violent training. The world of the Western horse has changed dramatically in the past year or two. Polo made an enormous change about five years ago when the world’s #1 player adopted my concepts. We are working extremely hard at the moment and the Thoroughbred racing world seems to be listening and I believe acting favorably toward making the necessary changes to add that discipline to the list.

The world of the recreational rider has probably been the easiest to convince but the most difficult to monitor. South America was probably the #1 challenge, but we are seeing definite movement in the right direction. I am enormously confident that we have reached critical mass and the improvements made will continue after I am no longer a presence.

09/29/2021: What do you see as the biggest challenge that we face with respect to moving forward in the adoption of your techniques?

Monty’s Answer: It is my opinion that the greatest challenge in moving forward non-violent horsemanship in the world rests firmly in the hands of the traditionalist. I have been told that I have no respect for tradition. In fact, that is simply not true. I respect tradition, which began with man’s desire to domesticate horses because of their size and strength and willingness to assist early humans in transporting people and objects from one place to another. Once arriving in the new location, horses volunteered to work the ground and help plant the seeds for the domestic human beings to live with.

Competition and extreme demand was thousands of years in the future. Drawings in the caves would indicate that pain, violence and demand entered the scene closely connected with competitions created by human beings. I respect all humans who brought horses forward into our lives. My position is that we should constantly work to improve this relationship and not simply demand from it.

09/22/2021: The following are words or ideas that seem to stand out in your book. Could you tell us what the word “Compassion” means to you in terms of your techniques with respect to both horses and to other individuals?

Monty’s Answer: Compassion is the act of understanding the needs of another. Where horse training is concerned it doesn’t mean that we need to simply love on the horses throughout our efforts to train them. Where horse training is concerned, compassion leads the human to understand how and why horses were created in the first place. Certainly any horse trainer with a reasonable amount of compassion for the flight animal would immediately eliminate pain and violence from the training procedures.

Yes, a compassionate human might take a sharp object and cut open the mid-section of a horse but only if that horse is under anesthetic and has a medical need for the surgery involved. I struck a horse causing pain for the last time in 1949. I was acting under the demand of my father at the age of 14. I told my father at that time that that was the last time I would hit a horse. Without violence from that time forward the horses gave me 11 world championships in the competition arena and dozens and dozens of championships on the racetracks of the world.

09/15/2021: The following are words or ideas that seem to stand out in your book. Could you tell us what the word “Communication” means to you in terms of your techniques with respect to both horses and to other individuals?

Monty’s Answer: Communication is the act of transferring information from one brain to another. Violence in training horses equals communication. The problem is that it communicates a need for fear and departure. The flight animal is extremely aware of the violent training afforded by the lion or the wolf. These carnivores communicate very clearly the need to flee.

Flight is what nature intended for the horse to use in order to live. Striking the flight animal in order to communicate is a fallacy. Striking the flight animal to cause pain is clearly one of the least intelligent acts the human being could ever engage in.

09/08/2021: The following are words or ideas that seem to stand out in your book. Could you tell us what the word “Connection” means to you in terms of your techniques with respect to both horses and to other individuals?

Monty’s Answer: “Connection” is a simple way to define that act of becoming educated so as to fully understand the needs and requirements necessary to live with our horses as partners and not as adversaries against one another. Discipline is essential, however discipline should be an act that while uncomfortable is not painful. Continuing a work effort when the horse gets it wrong is desirable. Stopping that work effort, giving a rub and a quiet voice is advisable.

When we get it right, any of us can watch the horse celebrate with us. When we get it wrong, we will observe the horse tense, nervous and clearly unhappy. All of this requires an education in the silent language of Equus so as to translate to the human brain the actual feelings of the horse involved.

09/01/2021: The following are words or ideas that seem to stand out in your book. Could you tell us what the word “Understanding” means to you in terms of your techniques with respect to both horses and to other individuals?

Monty’s Answer:

Understanding, for me, is defined as the ability to gather information sent to us, fully analyze it and decide how to act upon it. I often say that we should understand fully where the horse is coming from in terms of their needs in the area of living with human beings who are far different from Equus as a species.

If we fail to understand the needs of our horses, then there is no question that “breaking" them is the answer. The problem is the “broken" horse will do as he is told but will not do it because he wants to, only because he is afraid not to. Understanding the horse is a complicated issue that takes time to learn. It is not a simple act to understand and an appropriate education is critical.

08/25/2021: The following are words or ideas that seem to stand out in your book. Could you tell us what the word “Respect” means to you in terms of your techniques with respect to both horses and to other individuals?

Monty’s Answer: It is a strong opinion of mine that traditional horsemanship was void of any respect for the rights, fears or desires of the horses involved. A favorite expression of traditional trainers is “the horse needs to know who’s boss”. This statement qualifies the trainer to use force and pain to be sure the horse knows who is boss. There is never a mention of reward or praise where traditional horsemanship is concerned.

It is my belief that it is our human responsibility to learn what the horse sees as praise and respect. For these reasons the word “breaking” is quite appropriate in traditional training. When we lived in the caves we broke our wives and our children because we could. I suppose the uncivilized male human did what he felt was necessary to control his environment.

It has taken 6000 years to begin to realize that the flight animal will attempt to please us when we get our message correct without violence.

08/18/2021: The following are words or ideas that seem to stand out in your book. Could you tell us what the word “Responsibility” means to you in terms of your techniques with respect to both horses and to other individuals?

Monty’s Answer: Assuming responsibility is often a very difficult decision for individuals to make. One will often hear excuses for a given negative circumstance. When a horse under performs, I want to hear a trainer explain what he or she might have done to improve that performance.

I do not want to hear what a groom did wrong or about the mistakes a rider might have made. Those shortfalls will always be present. But I believe trainers should always look for decisions they made to improve, thus assuming responsibility for which they may have control.

08/11/2021: The following are words or ideas that seem to stand out in your book. Could you tell us what each word means to you in terms of your techniques with respect to both horses and to other individuals? Listening, responsibility, respect, understanding, connection, communication, and compassion.

Monty’s Answer: Let’s start with Listening: It is my opinion that listening involves far more than simply the ears of human or animal. Listening is the act of taking information in and acting upon that information in a responsible fashion.

We have all heard humans say to someone “you just don’t listen”. It is my opinion that they realize full well that the ears of that person are working just fine. It is a suggestion that that human being is not processing or acting appropriately on the sounds they have taken in through the auditory canal.

08/04/2021: Could you tell us a little about one of the difficult episodes of your life?

Monty’s Answer: One of the most difficult stories in my early career occurred in an incident in 1954. I was attending California Polytechnic University in San Luis Obispo (Cal Poly). I was on their rodeo team and their horse show team, as well. I was competing on the weekends and studying hard on the weekdays. I won two world championships while competing on the rodeo team; the Team Roping championship in 1955 and the Steer Wrestling championship in 1956.

This followed my world championship in Horse Mastership in 1950. One might look upon these circumstances and imagine that, at the age of 21, I was feeling pretty good about my ability to perform in horse competitions. It was during that space and time when I was approached by Greg Ward. Greg was the son of a farmer from Bakersfield, California. He had been an outstanding athlete at the Bakersfield High School.

Just before moving to San Luis Obispo and beginning courses in Animal Sciences, Greg was in an accident and rolled a tractor over on himself. He fractured his skull and was left with virtually no lateral vision to the right side of his body.

When he enrolled in Cal Poly, Greg informed me that he wanted me to teach him how to be a champion on Western performance horses. Greg offered me a fee and told me that his father had purchased a horse for him with a saddle included in the transaction. The horse’s name was Blackie, an older, very limited ex-ranch horse purchased by Greg’s father for $350 with a saddle in the deal. When I began to work with Greg, I formed the conclusion that I had made a huge mistake.

Sure, Greg was an athlete in high school, but Blackie was never considered an athlete and the saddle was worth about $50. I had cattle on campus to work my Western show horses with, and I happened to be feeding them on a day about a month in to my challenge with Greg Ward, Blackie and the saddle.

A moment occurred that is imprinted in my memory and shall be for the rest of my days. As I fed my cattle, a man came driving up in a pick-up truck. It was Bill Stroud, a former student at the University and a retired champion bull rider from the rodeo team. I remember meeting him with a big smile and shaking his hand. Bill then asked me about the man on the black horse attempting to change leads in the arena nearby. I guess I felt frustrated, but I won’t make any excuses.

“That’s Greg Ward on his horse Blackie. The horse cost his Dad $350 and they got a saddle in the deal. Greg has asked me to make him a champion with western competition horses and just have a look at what I have to deal with.” I continued, “In addition to what you see, Greg has no lateral vision from his right eye. How in the world can I make a champion out of that combination of challenged individuals?”

I think I asked Bill what he would suggest I do. I will never forget the piercing stare that came back at me at that moment. Bill looked at me and said, “I am ashamed of you.”

I was startled but silent. Bill went on to admonish me, “That $350 horse is Greg Ward’s teacher and partner in this effort. The saddle he is riding on is undoubtedly the only one he has, and at least he has some vision in that right eye. You started out with some challenges yourself and I would suggest you go to work and do the best you can with him.”

One cannot imagine how humbling it was. I felt two feet tall. Bill got in his pick-up and drove away, and it was one of the worst feelings of my life. I immediately went to the arena and began to give my best effort to Greg Ward and Blackie. Greg improved dramatically over the next four years. I got him jobs with some of the older, accomplished trainers and in 1962 I saw him at the Salinas arena preparing to show a beautiful three year old filly in the Hackamore division.

Greg told me her name was Fillinic and that she had tremendous ability. Greg won the Hackamore Competition and went on from there to win 16 world championships, far more than the 11 in my career that started 15 years before Blackie came on the scene. Fillinic went on to be a Hall of Fame broodmare producing a lineage of hundreds of champion horses with the NIC being the last few letters of their names.

Greg developed cancer in his early 60s and came to my house to thank me for my early work. He weighed under a hundred pounds at that time and was scheduled to show for another world championship within a few months. Greg won that championship in the National Reined Cow Horse Snaffle Bit futurity and died a short time after.

Of course, one already knows the lesson in this story. I can guarantee you that I have never have forgotten how to give a chance to anyone who has the desire to work and attempt success with horses, no matter the odds. I would count Greg Ward as being responsible for many of the achievements that have come my way, simply because he didn’t give up.

07/28/2021: What advice would you have for parents, in horsemanship and riding terms, but also in general terms?

Monty’s Answer: My advice to parents may seem to the reader to be a bit of self-interest. It is true however that I would tell any parent to set aside all violent tendencies and learn as much as possible about horses and the non-violent training of them. Tell yourselves that the horses are simply like children and their assistance in your education will undoubtedly cause you to be a better parent or teacher.

07/21/2021: So, in view of all of this experience with young folks, what advice would you have for youngsters just starting out?

Monty’s Answer: The advice I would give to all youth of today is to steadfastly attempt to advise the adults in your lives to set aside any violent tendencies and simply communicate your desires. I would further advise the youth of today to seek the best possible education, choosing a field which holds great interest within you. Set goals and go after those goals with a massive desire to learn, act upon and succeed wherever possible.

07/14/2021: One important category of relationships with other humans in your life has been the 47 children you took in over the years in addition to your own three children. Can you tell us about them? What motivated you and your wife, Pat, to look after all of these children? What did you learn from the experience or take away from the demonstration of such love and generosity?

Monty’s Answer: My university studies were principally in behavioral sciences. This acted to cause my extreme interest in working with the human species, the same as it peaked my interest in studying the behavior of animals. I became particularly active in the study of wild deer in my early 20s. These are the flightiest animals on earth. As a behaviorist I learned to move toward animals more flighty than horses in order to understand better the flight tendencies of Equus. Some children were almost as flighty as a deer. While others were inclined to act out aggressively.

There is a world out there waiting to be understood better than our species has accomplished since its inception. I also found that an aggressive child was often truly a flight animal who had been acted upon aggressively and learned to accept this as effective behavior. Often times these children, treated properly, will end up being passive adults who have simply had enough of aggression and find a life of greater contentment by eliminating their aggressive tendencies.

With 50 children to observe during their growing up process, my wife Pat and I saw every behavioral tendency anyone could imagine. They were actually a better university for me than any of the formal universities I attended. In actual fact, I received more love and generosity from my 50 children than I could’ve imagined.

07/07/2021: One of the things that strikes me is the way that your interest in communication is not only with horses but with people too. Can you tell me a little about the way that some of the ideas and techniques that you’ve used with horses translates into relationships with other humans?

Monty’s Answer: In actual fact, I find very little difference, human to human or human to horse. While it’s true that not all humans are flight animals, a huge percentage are just that. Children through to adulthood are often times closer to a flight animal than they are most adult humans.

Acting to communicate with a child bears great similarities, in my world, to an adult human acting with a horse. I like to say that offering a child negative consequences (non-violent) to an action considered negative is far better than striking the child or even restricting the child and using voice and words to frighten the involved youngster.

Just like horses, children will do the right thing far more often if they want to do the right thing than ever will happen if they are afraid of violent consequences, should they not do the right thing. Some children are more closely related to the flight animal than others are but almost all children fall closer to the flight animal category than they do to the category of predators.

06/30/2021: You write in your book: “Hold in your mind the idea that the horse can do no wrong, that any action taken by the horse – especially the young, unstarted horse – was most likely influenced by you. We can do little to teach the horse; we can only create an environment in which he can learn.” Can you expand on this idea for us?

Monty’s Answer: If one steps back and thinks for a moment that the prey animal desperately needs to survive, then the human must accept the fact that all actions of the prey animal are motivated by the predator. The horse that is eating grass is doing so in order to feed the body to remain strong and fast. The horse that abruptly stops eating grass and stares at the bushes nearby is well aware that the predator could be there.

The horse that breaks and runs away from those bushes is certainly telling the predator that he or she is fleeing for its very own survival. It is the actions of all predators that drive the actions of the horse. A human walking into an enclosure with an untrained horse must realize that they are perceived to be a predator. The human who uses a whip to cause pain proves that the horse was right. The human who has studied the communication system of the flight animal will surely conclude that violence is never the answer.

Horses can be “broken” and a human can cause sufficient pain to drive the horse into a state of submission. That horse will do what the human demands, but it is clearly my opinion that the horse will not complete that action, as well as he might, if he was completing the action because he wanted to and not because he was forced to.

I know, the traditionalist will say that the old methods have worked for 6,000 years and that we simply have to do it that way. I believe I have proven that to be a false assumption. We are all watching the world move away from violent training and discovering many ways to act as a partner with the horse instead of a demanding predator.

06/23/2021: You’ve identified a kind of language among horses that you call Equus. Can you help us understand a little bit about this language?

Monty’s Answer: Let me give you a few examples. A human eye, wide open and staring at the horse’s eye, is perceived to be predatorial. Square shoulders pointed in the direction of the horse will offer the same message. Fingers open, and hand as stiff as a cat’s claw, will also evoke an image of predation.
To alter each of these moves to be the opposite of what I described would send a message of safety and harmony. That is what I mean when I say “The horse and human should act as partners.”

06/16/2021: What is your method of connecting with horses. It’s the central idea of your book, The Man Who Listens to Horses and really of your life’s work? Can you describe how it works and some of the ideas upon which it is based?

Monty’s Answer: It would be wonderful if there was a way to briefly describe my work and how the concepts affect the horses. Like so many things in life, it is far more complicated than that. Allow me to explain that my concepts are linked with a ‘body language’ which is understood by the horse and found to be without negative consequence.

The flight animal needs to be safe, therefore the human needs to deeply study the body language used during the process of training. The horse needs to feel a zone of comfort and acceptance from the human so as to find enjoyment in completing the actions requested by the human.

06/09/2021: Should you have to hold a license to be a horse owner, in your opinion?

Monty’s Answer: There is a problem for me with this business of expecting horse people to hold a license, who is God here? I have never seen a governmental body that was terribly successful at creating a workable environment.

Of course, I would like everyone to know the essentials for caring for and dealing with a horse if they own one. I could however foresee so much red tape involved that many people would get a bicycle and forget the horse. In my opinion education is the essential ingredient in creating a better world for horses.

Many people are currently working hard to bring higher standards of understanding to the horse world. We have come many centuries in the horse world without licenses and I’m not so sure we would have ever domesticated these wonderful creatures if a license was required.

06/02/2021: Can you pick and choose which bits of Join-Up® you use in your management, or do you have to follow the principles to the letter in everything you do?

Monty’s Answer: Any improvement is better than no improvement. My position is that any time the horseman moves to engage non-violent techniques it is a step in the right direction. It is true however that virtually all teachers will agree that physical violence from one teacher affects the life of the student with all teachers.

Having said that, if you should choose to pick a non-violent procedure to achieve one lesson and a violent one to attempt another, you are sending mixed signals to the tenth power. It is my hope that horsemen will have a hard look at and take the time to learn how to live by the principles of Join-Up® whether or not they use the identical procedure to me.

05/26/2021: Do you have a different relationship with a horse started with Join-Up® than a traditionally broken horse?

Monty’s Answer: There is no question that you have a different relationship with a horse trained in the absence of violence when compared with one who has known the whip. Ask yourself how it would be for you with regard to your childhood learning, “Wouldn’t you have preferred a different relationship with your parents if they were forcing you with a whip instead of encouraging learning through communication and non-violent discipline?”

Ask yourself what sort of relationship you might have had with a teacher who grabbed you by the collar, slammed you down in a chair and said, “You will learn or I will use this whip on you”. Compare that relationship to teachers that you came to respect and who used non-violent techniques.
While writing a book about education, I met with UK teachers who had had the ruler used on them and a pointer across the knuckles. These methods were used in our recent past and in many parts of the world are still accepted.

05/19/2021: Does it take longer to start a horse using Join-Up® rather than conventional methods?

Monty’s Answer: The very heart of Join-Up® is to encourage accelerated learning. Critics have said that my horses learn too fast and therefore don’t remember their lessons. Anyone aware of horses in general will immediately agree that horses have a memory far superior to human beings.

Accelerated learning refers to the act of literally learning the lesson in question and once the horse has learned a given lesson they will tend to remember if for a lifetime. I will refer to the science study, of Join-Up® verses UK conventional. Pay particular attention to the learning curve based upon two days of testing at the end of the trial.

05/12/2021: Are your Join-Up® methods and competitive riding at odds?

Monty’s Answer: The answer certainly is that in no way do my violence-free methods sit at odds with competition. If they did, I would never have been able to achieve eleven World Championships.

The fact is, to train violence-free one can achieve a far higher degree of excellence than forceful training. Horses will perform closer to their optimum levels when they do it because they want to, than they ever will if they are performing because they are frightened not to. It is scientifically sound to make this assumption for the flight animal.

05/05/2021: Have you any plans to raise the profile of violence-free training by getting some top riders involved?

Monty’s Answer: I have the grandest plans you could ever imagine for getting top riders involved in learning my methods of violence-free training. It is one of the most exciting challenges of my career, and I plan to meet that challenge through the use of modern day technology. I find it hard to believe that with a touch of a button one can reach tens of thousands of people, with the responsibility to bring them the best information possible.

Within the content of this online exploration of my concepts I plan to bring to the students lessons from the greatest masters on Earth at the present time. I have commitments from the top Dressage riders, Show Jumping performers, racing greats and the absolute top trainers in Western competitions. They have agreed to share their secrets through my Online University.

These world-class riders bring to my students their methods for achieving world-class results. It is incredibly exciting to me to put in this effort, which has been brought to me by the tens of thousands of interested horsemen that have come to know my work. I consider this one of the great blessings of my life.

4/28/2021: Who inspires you?

Monty’s Answer: Looking back over my career, inspiration was found by me when assessing my father’s use of violence against me. His abuse was the antithesis of everything that I wanted from my life. Inspiration however can come from negative experiences too, and his violence was so profound that it touched me deeply and caused me to vow to eliminate it from every aspect of my future.

My father’s early negative inspiration was followed by some very positive inspirational moments in the training of wild young horses they became my teachers, ultimately they became my providers and for the rest of my days they will be my friends. Horses were patient enough to allow me time to learn but demanding enough to charge me a high price for making mistakes, thus educational.

Sister Agnes Patricia, my eighth grade teacher supported the horses’ plea for me to reject violence rather than seek revenge. She was a great teacher and augmented the lessons of the horses in a way that was indelible. Don Dodge, many times World Champion in Western competition was an extremely tough mentor who demanded perfection from me, never got it but kept trying.

Bud Heafey, a German Dressage rider, molded himself into an American English riding instructor who spent many frustrating hours with me in an attempt to create a better competitor in the English saddle. He was proud when I was victorious and very tough on me when I made mistakes. Neither of my inspirational riding instructors ever accepted the principle of Join-Up® and it was up to me to overcome that.

04/21/2021 Who is your favorite horse you’ve trained over the years and tell us about the most challenging horse you’ve worked with.

Monty’s Answer: While it is true that I have trained some fantastic horses in my time, Johnny Tivio will remain my favorite for the balance of my days. Lomitas, a German Thoroughbred racehorse (European Champion), would sit solidly in second place. Johnny Tivio was an absolutely unbelievable performance horse that was responsible for four of my nine World Championships.

While I personally have affected the lives of more than 50,000 horses, it is natural for some of them to rise to a memorable status. Some because they were so talented and one might say GREAT, others might become memorable because they were so overwhelmingly challenging. Until recently, Blushing ET was my most challenging and Brown Prince, my most dangerous.

In the UK, Prince of Darkness was the most challenging, and in fact was the inventor of the Monty Roberts blanket, used by more than a 1,000 horses at any one time. This is a type of padding protecting the horses at the starting stalls in the racing industry globally. Prince of Darkness was a resident of Newmarket and went on to win races and become a sire.

It is only at this current moment that I am facing what is now the most challenging individual in my entire career. Her name is Kilbride and she believes that starting stalls are simply a place where humans take horses to be ground up for dog food. Kilbride is convinced that starting stalls were invented to thin out the horse population and a place to dispose of unfavored animals.

Prince of Darkness was a ten-day job, Blushing ET was the longest ever until Kilbride at 80 days. I am now on 375 days with Kilbride and I can easily anticipate another 100 to 150. Having said that it was just this morning that Kilbride reached the highest level of her journey to accept the starting stalls. If it were any other horse I would say she would race in a week or so, but she is Kilbride.

The important factor in the Kilbride story is that this mare has been a virtual genius in bringing me an education that will assist horses from this point forward. She has taught me lessons about the use of the starting stalls that I never dreamed existed. If accepted and utilized, her lessons will help young horses for the balance of our relationship with this species.

Note: The Horses in My Life is the book that described my story with many of the horses who most influenced me.

04/14/2021: Are there some horses that are beyond hope and will never make good riding horses, because they have been so badly treated by humans in the past?

Monty’s Answer: While there are some horses that have been so mistreated that they are virtually unusable, I believe that the number is very, very few. If one fails to save a horse for some useful activity it is, in my opinion, virtually always because we are short of the mark in understanding how to meet the horse’s needs. I have literally never worked with a horse without significant improvement.

04/07/2021: What do you love most about working with horses?

Monty’s Answer: What I love most about working with horses is the incredible gratification I feel when the horse clearly demonstrates to me that they are in favor of my techniques. It is amazing for me to work with horses globally, watch them achieve and express a clear acceptance of my work and then listen to critics who have their opinions about why my concepts are not effective.

With a team in England, I completed a science trial where I worked with seven horses every day (30 minutes) for twenty-two days. It was an iron clad purely scientific study. The trial compared Join-Up® to UK conventional methods. Every aspect was kept equal and pure. I was over-joyed at the conclusion and as the preliminary results are coming in I am literally ecstatic.

It is absolutely true that if I began to describe for you all things that I love about working with horses there wouldn’t be enough room here to accommodate my answers. I am truly a human being who is doing what he loves to do.
Should horsemen choose to learn and utilize my techniques they too would experience this joy. It is an overwhelming condition of the mind by which ones entire life changes. When the full extent of my concepts are understood and utilized an appreciation for life in general comes over one, your friends, family and work mates will all benefit and your animals will find a joyous existence.

3/31/2021: What do you love most about working with horses?

Monty’s Answer: What I love most about working with horses is the incredible gratification I feel when the horse clearly demonstrates to me that they are in favor of my techniques. It is amazing for me to work with horses globally, watch them achieve and express a clear acceptance of my work and then listen to critics who have their opinions about why my concepts are not effective.

With a team in England, I completed a science trial where I worked with seven horses every day (30 minutes) for twenty-two days. It was an iron clad purely scientific study. The trial compared Join-Up® to UK conventional methods. Every aspect was kept equal and pure. I was over-joyed at the conclusion and as the preliminary results are coming in I am literally ecstatic.

It is absolutely true that if I began to describe for you all things that I love about working with horses there wouldn’t be enough room here to accommodate my answers. I am truly a human being who is doing what he loves to do.
Should horsemen choose to learn and utilize my techniques they too would experience this joy. It is an overwhelming condition of the mind by which ones entire life changes. When the full extent of my concepts are understood and utilized an appreciation for life in general comes over one, your friends, family and work mates will all benefit and your animals will find a joyous existence.

3/24/2021: What is Join-Up®? I’d love for my horses to follow me around the paddock.

Monty’s Answer: Join-Up® is that moment in time when the horse chooses to be with you instead of away from you. While Join-Up® is also the title for the full body of work that I do this term comes from that very moment when the handler through communication gains sufficient respect so that the animal prefers to be in their presence rather than away from them.

3/17/2021: What is the key to understanding horses, getting and keeping them onside?

Monty’s Answer: The key to understanding horses, getting and keeping them onside, is to eliminate violence from the training routine. All things should be done to engender trust. Trust is a condition one simply cannot achieve when there are whips and forceful methods used during the process by which horses become educated. One only has to ask oneself their personal preference in education.

One can transfer these same principles to children and virtually every other animal on the face of the earth. Often the user of force will state that he or she is gaining the respect of the animal; I say that respect is in fact spelled R.E.S.P.E.C.T., not F.E.A.R.. My childhood would be a strong example of these principles. Children are flight animals and horses are as well.

3/10/2021: How did you discover your skills?

Monty’s Answer: Since there were no human beings to offer even a gateway to the concepts I have discovered, it was necessary to reach to the animals for the secrets of communication and understanding. Thoroughly studying the subject in question, it was clear that no one had found even the suggestion of these concepts, in stone, on the early caves we so often depend upon to uncover historical events.

The wild horses of the North American continent had risen in population to approximately two million. In the 1940s, conditions offered ample opportunity to study these wonderful creatures. I was hungry for knowledge and fortunate to exist in an environment that was conducive to satisfying that appetite, the Mustangs became my professors as well as my friends.

Certainly there was human assistance as well, however it was more in the area of encouragement or discouragement that my two legged friends provided. The number of people providing encouragement was extremely small while there were legions of those who would ridicule me, or even resort to physical abuse. Those who brought encouragement to me were profound however and won out in the end.

3/3/2021: Do you think you were born with a special ability to relate to horses, or do you think it’s something you developed over time?

Monty’s Answer: Well, I guess my answer would be, “I don’t know”. Explore for a moment the possibility that you would visit a class of children learning to swim. Let’s say they were taking their third lesson. Imagine that you spoke with a child that seemed to be swimming very well. Suppose that you asked this youngster, “Why is it you’re swimming so well and the others don’t seem to have caught on?” I suggest that this child would say, “I don’t know, it seems easy to me.”

One should remember that I began showing horses in competition at four years of age. I suppose it’s possible to surmise that it is easier for me to think in the world of horses than the world of people. One thing for certain is that no one chronicled these concepts as I have outlined them. It is true that Xenophon wrote about working with horses in a slightly similar fashion. His writings date to about 360 B.C. and probably more closely approximate my work than anything written since.

I find it amazing that in 1996 when I launched my first book, most horsemen took the position that I was dreaming when I suggested that there was a discernible language that I dubbed the language of Equus. About four years later, traditional horsemen began to write that I wasn’t the first one to discover it saying they knew of people that talked about the language long before my time. In 2005 I heard, “Well, of course there’s a language. We’ve known it all along.”

At the current time, surveys have suggested that about 40% of all horses will receive some form of my concepts during the early training process. It is my hope that this trend will continue. It seems that this is an often traveled past for concepts considered new and original. This doesn’t bother me so long as the horses ultimately benefit from the discoveries I’ve made.

2/24/2021: You are so inspirational! I watched you as a kid growing up and grew up with horses but fell out after I lost my beloved Palomino, Love, but more recently again after 9 years of having horses again, I need your help. I feel I have let my horse down on so many levels trying different techniques…he was a rescue but more now than ever before his personality has changed. Our mare Alpha (oh she was amazing just an amazing horse I miss her so much ) had to be put down over 6 months ago and he started to change. I know a lot has to do with me if 98 percent of it…

He is head shy, hates needles, he is hard for vets to handle and has great potential. And he can be a sweet horse. I know he had to have been beaten in the past. I Love him though I don’t care about why he is being sour, I just want to know what I can do to help him not be…we recently got another horse for my daughter (we have 3 now) and I don’t want to mess him up…I want to make him the best for my daughter and I am dedicated to doing it right. I was abused as a kid so watching every video has inspired me and also reminded me that I can do better…I am not a believer is physical punishment, but I have popped a horse on their shoulder if they went to bite me.

I am seriously in tears right now because everything you say and have said is everything I believe and feel is morally right with God’s animals and it is the foundation of my soul… but I need help so I can help my horses…how and what do I need to do to help my horses and myself…I pray you respond because I don’t know which way to turn. Thank You for your time reading this email.

Monty’s Answer: I so appreciate this question. The reason I am impressed is that you are admitting that you need help. So many owners simply want to know how to solve a specific problem. It is my belief that those of us who deal with horses realize that all problems are caused by humans and they are basically sharing a common denominator.

Please understand that I have an Online University. It is extremely affordable and there are over 650 separate video lessons available on it. I have a textbook, From My Hands to Yours, that outlines my concepts from A to Z. Realizing that you need help, it would be foolhardy of me to begin to speak specifically about solving any of the problems that you have. I am simply not trying to help individuals with specific problems. It is my goal to assist the horsemen of the world in immolating my concepts so as to better understand each of the problems you face.

My Dually Halter would seem to me to help you if properly used. I guarantee you, I could fix these problems in a very short period of time. That is not the answer. I am obsessed with people who care to learn my concepts so that they can solve each of these problems in the absence of violence.

Striking the horse on the shoulder for biting is not the answer for biting horses. What is the answer, you might ask? These answers are available in virtually every aspect of what my team and I are sending out to the world for horse lovers who care enough to learn to solve virtually every problem you can think of without abusing the horse in any way. Perhaps you have read that I won 11 world championships. This accomplishment was reached having not struck a horse since 1949.

I was 14 and I hit a horse at my father’s insistence. When that session was complete, I told my father I would never hit another horse again. I have fulfilled that obligation. Pain and violence toward any flight animal is the silliest thing that any human being could ever do.

02/17/2021: I would like to ask Monty how I can help my horse who we bought as a gelding in 2016 from a rescue center close to where we live in Manitoba, Canada. Tully, as he was called, had been sold through an auction and was a Paint cross heavy horse, guessing perhaps Belgian. He was about five years old and had been lounged and haltered but nothing else. We brought him home to replace an older mare who we were retiring as she was in her 20’s so we kept them separate for a while on the other side of the fence then put them together with our two mares which he started to herd around and jump them.

We found out that he was not castrated properly so got our veterinarian to operate and geld him successfully. Then we sent him to a trainer who advised us he might always be spooky so we brought him home and I decided to train him myself along with my husband. We were able to ride him but after two spooks at ducks on the water and also a dog running behind him in the round pen I came off with stitches in my chin and was nervous of what to do to help Tully as this was not his fault just his quick reaction.

We had him at another trainer last spring but the trainer was quite aggressive with Tully and I really feel he needs quiet handling as he is very sensitive and always watching what is going on. Quick to react. I want to find a solution to this. I have had a lot of learning about horse training and really want to be able to give confidence to Tully and myself too. What would your advice be to help us both?

Monty’s Answer: For a deep understanding of, and personal lessons on, how to execute these concepts, I have a school: the Monty Roberts International Learning Center and you can book courses and physically learn how to execute these non-violent procedures. I am here at the Farm, dedicated to educating the world, and available to you.

Your question is broad based as I have ever heard. What you are asking me to do is explain each of the concepts I have learned in my lifetime. It’s all there in my From My Hands to Yours, a textbook with photographs and diagrams. It is impossible to include a full course in my concepts in one answer. It is also true that I have over 650 lessons on my Online University: MontyRobertsUniversity.com .

Those two items could in fact give you the full breadth of my concepts for a fraction of what you would have paid trainers. I would advise you to first study the language and nature of the horse, Equus. This will help build yours and your horse’s confidence. From there, all of the concepts will grow. All of us can relate to the flight animal at some point. Thank you for reaching out.

02/10/2021: I have a pure-bred Arabian gelding that dislikes head collars and bridles and I would like some advice on what I can try to resolve this issue.

Monty’s Answer: Assuming that this question is predicated on the actions of the horse refusing to accept the head collars [halter] or the bit and bridle, please accept my invitation to go on the MontyRobertsUniversity.com and view the videos provided there on this very subject. It is my hope that one of those contains the story of a horse being brought to me by the actor Robert Mitchum, quite a famous movie star of the 1940s and 1950s. I acted as a child stunt person for many of his films and he bought property quite close to Flag Is Up Farms.

It was about 1976 when he came with his wife on a Saturday afternoon. Mr. Mitchum told in great detail a story about a horse that he owned which no one could bridle for two years. He claimed to have some accomplished people working for him but said that the horse had to wear a halter 24/7 and putting a bit in his mouth and bridle over his ears was virtually impossible. Bob inquired as to our training fees at the time. Being quite close with his money, Mitchum’s eyes opened wide and he said with a forceful voice, “I am not paying that kind of money. I’ll get rid of him.”

I wanted to please Mr. Mitchum, so I invited him to come to the round pen where I said I would put the horse one week later. I told Bob that I would send the horse around the pen at a canter. At the appropriate time I would invite the horse to come in where I would stand holding the bit and bridle away from my body. I explained that if I could not get a halter on him or the bit and bridle in less than five minutes I would keep the horse for an additional month fee-free.

If Bob’s horse however, would come off the wall, come to me in the center of the pen, reach down and put the bit on himself and then allow me to slide the bridle over his ears, then Bob would have to pay me double my fee. Mr. Mitchum had a good laugh but then in a loud voice said “I am going to get five free weeks of training here, no doubt about that.” I knew Mr. Mitchum appreciated good Scotch Whiskey. Together we went to my home and Bob had more than one large Scotch. Mrs. Mitchum drove him home with the agreement that they would be back in seven days.

Admitting this was a very difficult horse, I spent about an hour per day with him for the seven days. The Mitchums returned on the following Saturday. I allowed his horse to canter the circumference of the Round Pen for 4-5 laps and then invited him to come in to me. Holding the bit and bridle out in front of me, our subject horse moved close to me and reached down, opened his mouth, putting it on the bit.

While he was savoring a tiny bit of honey on the mouthpiece, I slid the bridle over his ears with no effort at all. I have to say that Mr. Mitchum was very troubled but reached in his pocket and handed me my doubled fee. It was a lot of fun and I knew he could afford the trick I played on him. If you should decide to view the lessons on bridling the difficult horse, you will learn every aspect of the work I did. You will be able to do it too!

See this video lesson: https://montyrobertsuniversity.com/training/2031188623


2/3/2021: Who in the western horse world has influenced you and your training?

Monty’s Answer: It is absolutely true that I was alone in the concepts of gentle training in the early stages of my career. As I began to explore equine behavior deeper, I was influenced by Bill Dorrance. As I began winning championships in the Western Show arena, Don Dodge helped me immensely to take me to higher levels of understanding my horse and the training needed.

Inspiring and imparting to my students has always been very gratifying to me. It seems that it was about 1950 when I said that I didn’t want any student of mine to be as good as I am; I wanted every student to be better than I am. In the last three decades, I would have to say that some of my students have impressed me and even influenced my own daily routines. It is very gratifying as they are winning championships around the globe.

1/27/2021: Is there something that you think should be changed or shouldn’t have changed in the western world of riding?

Monty’s Answer: There is very little that I ever felt shouldn’t be changed. In recent years I have learned that every time I come to think we are very close to getting it right, something comes up that improves our techniques dramatically. We have the ball rolling now and extremely large number s of both pleasure riders and competition riders are signing on to violence free training. It is a life’s goal for me and we are meeting that goal.

1/20/2021: Do you use older techniques and are they as effective as more recent ones?

Monty’s Answer: Beginning in the early 1940s I came to the conclusion that violence should not be a part of human and horse relationships. The older techniques were all extremely violent and while it has changed dramatically there is still more violence, in my opinion, than is necessary. This is where I like to say “A good trainer can make a horse do almost anything. The great trainer can cause the horse to want to do it.

What do you know about how Western riding and equipment came to be?

Monty’s Answer: Western Riding evolved from the Spanish Vaquero. These horsemen came from Spain to raise cattle in the Western part of the United States, and in the early days the cattle were used primarily for leather. The saddle of the Vaquero evolved because of the needs to handle the cattle, which was significantly different from the European English saddle.

The saddle was designed and evolved in its design so as to meet the needs of a rider using a rope to control the cattle. The bit and bridle evolved for the same reason and were, in the early stages, significantly more severe than the English style. The bit and bridle follow that same evolution and are still evolving to this day.

1/6/2021: I hope you’re having a wonderful day and week, I am here to ask you a few questions regarding what you know about western riding and how it’s evolved. I’m a highschool freshman and I have a school project that involves me researching the evolution of anything that I please. I of course chose western riding because of how interested I am in it after riding for about three years. I need to interview some possible experts, so who’s better to talk to than the people who have been riding western for years? If you’d be up for helping me out that would be very much appreciated. If you end up seeing this I’d you could respond ASAP that would be absolutely perfect. My project is due on the 1st of February 2021, thanks let’s get started!

What are a few things that you find to be the most prominent in western riding over the years/something that has stayed the same?

Monty’s Answer: The only prominent feature I can think of is the Western saddle, bit and bridle. In fact not one of those has remained the same. The horses have been evolving for 50 million years and have not changed dramatically since 1939 when I began competing. If I had to choose one thing that was closest to being the same, it would be the horses.
Fortunately there is virtually nothing about Western riding that has stayed the same. I began competing in a Western saddle in 1939 and have won 11 world championships, each one involved a Western saddle. My riding, my equipment and my techniques to train the Western horse have profoundly changed over the 81 years involved. It is my belief that the only thing that has stayed anywhere near the same are the hats and the boots. Everything else has changed.

12/30/2020: I have a question about horses, what is the best way to calm them down? I have a horse that when I’m grooming and tacking up she won’t stop moving it makes it hard to get the saddle on and bridle on and when I get out to the pen to ride she is as slow as a sloth. What do you think I should do about that?

Monty’s Answer: Please do not feel as though you are the only person with horses who has this problem. It occurs in the world of horses with a consistency greater than most problems I hear about. Having received your question. I have learned that most of my lessons on the Online University where standing still is concerned, have to do with the farrier, the vet and for mounting. I promise you I will, in the near future, do as much as I can to include more lessons where standing still to saddle and groom is concerned.

The lessons for the vet and farrier are very similar to the grooming and saddling so I can recommend that you study those lessons while I am getting busy to create the saddling and grooming ones. Standing still is a behavior desired by virtually everyone who deals with horses. It has a common human error that is committed by most hands-on horsemen. That error is the failure to relax, breathe diaphragmatically and discipline them in appropriate manners.

Please become aware of my book From My Hands to Yours which outlines the overall human behavior I recommend where encouraging horses to relax and stand still is involved. If this virus ever goes away and I am still around, I would hope to see you on the road somewhere and help you with your horse. Thank you for your question. You have given me some homework to do which probably should have been done years ago but I will get busy on them now.

12/23/2020: I have three horses. One is a 2 year old, one is a 7 year old and one is 14 years old. I am curious as to why the behavior of these horses tends to change so dramatically when I work with them. Is it simply that we have to work for years to get full acceptance from our horses? My oldest one lets me do almost anything with him. The middle one is fairly spooky when I move in certain ways. The 2 year old is absolutely dangerous for me to work with. Is this just because they haven’t had a human around them and they need years to become gentle? Please help me understand what I should do to facilitate the process of gentling my horses.

Monty’s Answer: In answer to your question, I have to say to you that I believe it would have taken me a lot longer to learn the gentling process had I not been exposed to wild creatures early in life. As it turns out the mustangs that I worked with at 10 11 and 12 years of age were teaching me how to gentle horses without my even knowing that I was learning. Looking back on it it turns out that my #1 life skill is observation.

Subconsciously, I was observing certain behavioral patterns coming from the mustangs which were dangerous. My body’s nervous system was able to read these responses without my brain being involved. I found myself gentling young mustangs in record breaking short time spans. People tended to say I was a genius at gentling wild horses. I now know that they were very wrong when terming me a genius at anything.

My muscle memory would kick in and did what the horse needed without knowing what I was doing. Later in life, I was to work with wild deer and they were the ones that told me what I was doing because of their extreme sensitivity. The wild deer are many times more sensitive than horses are. What they taught me was how to be what I was about to do before I even did it. The fact is that the sensitive deer will charge you a very big price for getting any behavior wrong.

The horses charge you a lower price so your tendency is to get it wrong for a longer period of time. The horse will finally get it through to you even if you aren’t consciously aware of it. The deer with their large price will more quickly cause you to be aware of the mistakes you are making.

Try to work with your horses, and see yourself in a mirror at the same time. You won’t need a real mirror but look inward when your horse makes what you consider to be an error. We must take the position that the horse is never wrong and constantly look inward to find what we did to cause the action in question.

This works with positive behavior as well with negative behavior. We simply need to learn to repeat the actions that cause positive behavior and limit the actions that cause the negative behavior.

12/16/2020: My name is Danielle and I have a serious question for you. I have a 9 year old gelding that I ride. He is normally very agreeable and is well trained in the area of trail riding. It seems that we get along quite well unless something happens that frightens me. Sometimes I pass properties where dogs will come running and barking at us. Twice now my horse has bucked me off when dogs have arrived on the scene. Recently a speeding car came at us and actually appeared to be moving toward the shoulder of the road. The car was scary but without warning my horse bucked me off again. I have engaged a trainer and the trainer finds that even setting up scary situations, my horse doesn’t buck with him at all. Please tell me why my horse might buck only with me.

Monty’s Answer: Your horse is probably not bucking because of a fear of the situation which seemed to have caused the action. It is highly likely that your horse is bucking because of your reaction and not those of the external condition. It seems likely to me that your pulse rate shoots up, your diaphragm is elevated dramatically and the fear that shoots through your body tells your horse that you are not safe on his back. Your horse probably feels you are in an attack mode. His ancestors would buck off a lion or a tiger and he’s probably putting you in the same category. Your trainer has probably learned through trial and error to fight back any fear and is perceived by the horse to be a safe passenger.

12/9/2020: I have read statements that you have made about how breathing is utilized by the horse in communicating with human beings. Could you please explain what you mean by that and does the horse really hear me and should I pay attention to his breathing as well? Thank you for any help you can give.
Noreen

Monty’s Answer: Breathing is one of the most critical elements available to the human being when communicating with Equus. While we humans tend to be unaware of the breathing of our horse, Equus can read our breathing from as much as 200 meters of distance between us. The audible factor is far less important than the factor of ‘core relaxation’. I will define core relaxation as being related to the diaphragm muscle at the bottom of the human rib cage. While the horse has a diaphragm muscle, their body being parallel to the ground requires that the muscle is in a vertical position. Since the human is upright the diaphragm is horizontal with the standing human.

This muscle s critical to the communication with Equus as it controls the communication with horses where the sensitivity of breathing is concerned. As we stand, the diaphragm muscle can be rather flat just below the lung. As we learn to relax our core, that muscle tends to sag and move downward well into the intestinal cavity. When that happens the consequences are that there is much more space in the thorax area reserved for the lungs and heart. When the lung and heart have more space, two behavioral traits are experienced.The first one is that the lungs have the opportunity to take on more air. Each of the little sacs that contain the air we breathe become larger with the added space. In addition, the walls of the Alveoli sacs become thinner as this tiny object expands. The thinner walls allow for air to move more easily into our blood stream. With more oxygen our heart is required to pump less often while still providing our body with sufficient oxygenated blood. The soft relaxed core is instantly noticed by the flight animal and will be regarded as a part of a relaxed human without violent intent. The horse therefore is more relaxed and more accepting of the human movements.

It is only now that I can teach these elements to my students. I have worked with wild deer for 47 years and they have allowed me to learn what constitutes acceptable behavior between the flight animal and the predatorial animal called human. I am now able to do with wild deer what most University professors will state is impossible. One might ask, “Why did it take you so long to learn this?”

My answer would be that I’m only 85 and it seems to me that on one else has learned it so I learned it this quickly.

12/2/2020: I have a horse that I love very much and when I make a move to rub my horse between the eyes sometimes he just flies away from me. Other times he seems to enjoy it. What is the problem?

Monty’s Answer: When I was less than 10 years of age, I remember being so short that it was difficult to rub my horse between the eyes. His name was Ginger and I thought the world of him. Once in a while he would fly away from me when I give him a rub. Other times he would seem to enjoy the rubbing.

It wasn’t until 1973 when decided to work with wild deer that I became aware of how important eye movement is in the world of communicating with Equus. As a very short child, I would first look at his nose and try to touch it. Sometimes he would lower his head and allow me to rub between his eyes with no trouble at all. Other times he would fly away.

Throughout my growing up years I knew virtually nothing about why this was happening. The deer informed me that when I looked at the nose but reached for the forehead, I would snap my eyes up to the intended area. That would produce flight behavior instantly. Later I learned to drag my eyes only and the horse’s behavior would remain calm and inclusive of me.

11/26/2020: My name is Lisa and I am a I am a PhD student in Media Arts and Practice at the University of Southern California. One of my current studies is connected with the observation of audible breathing as it relates to the subtle language human to human, and animal to human. Please give me some insights to your lifetime of study in this area.

Monty’s Answer: It is impossible for you to realize how appropriate your inquiry is for me at this time. The world of horsemen know so very little about the intricate communication that exists between human and horse. There is a book that could be written on this subject. Horsemen in general are not deeply educated in the world of communication between equus and the human.

Good horsemen so often rise from those who commit communication with their horses to their muscle memory. Most horsemen, world class or beginner, communicate from muscle memory and experience success or failure based upon how clever that muscle memory has become.

In my case, I have had the rare opportunity to be deeply engrossed in an academic education and the rare opportunity to be involved with a day to day connection to horses from the age of three. I decided early in life to study communication with animals at a depth most universities never reach.

11/19/2020: Hello, my name is Federica and I am contacting you from Italy, Milan. Since I was 6 I have been riding a horse, purely English riding, flat work and show jumping but only for pleasure. Now at the age of 35, together with my husband, I am about to revive the dream of having my own horse. This is the point: I fell in love on sight and I must say reciprocated in trust by a beautiful 4-year-old Italian trotter (son of Timoko). The horse ran very little and was deemed unsuitable for sulky racing as it breaks at a trot and gallops. The crux of the matter is: in your opinion, using your principles and getting help from those who know trotting horses, is it possible to put on the saddle and use it as a horse for flat work and for walks? Thank you.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question which is a unique one. I have for my entire life insisted that we harbor the opinion that a horse is a horse. It is my opinion that all breeds (size appropriate) are perfectly suited to accept the saddle and rider, and one should not hesitate to use my principles to successfully allow this to happen.

11/11/2020: How do I stop my pony from moving when I try to mount? My family’s pony Dusty rarely stands still when I go to mount. He also doesn’t like being tacked up. When he sees the tack, he walks off to the other side of the yard, because he knows being tacked up means ‘work’. I do manage to tack him up and then the biggest problem is mounting, because then he either steps sideways or walks forward so that I can’t mount. When we first got him (nearly 2 years ago) he was fine, but then it just came on. I would be really struggling to mount, and he would be walking forward like a racehorse. Then a few months ago I decided I’d try and work with him, although I didn’t have any set things I would do. This is what I did though.
I’d attempt to mount (bareback) and when he moved, whether it was forward or sideways, I’d then push him back to the spot where we started. His habit had gotten so bad that whenever someone put their hands on him and at the same time stood on the side you mount from, he would threaten to kick, stomp his hoof, and then usually move sideways. Thankfully he didn’t move to the side I would be standing on, but it was and is a problem. Anyway, my working with him did help a lot, but now he’s gone backwards again. I’m going to try what I did again, but do you have a solution?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for giving me the opportunity to say to you that I went through the same learning process that I am going to ask you to experience. The first thing you need to do is eliminate is the possibility of a medical issue. Are you using a mounting block or are you perhaps causing him discomfort when you pull yourself up? A horse will avoid painful procedures and if this is the case, I strongly suggest the mounting block.
On my Online Uni there is a video lesson on this very subject. The Mounting Block lesson is something I learned rather recently. I now realize that within 3-4 days I could have your horse coming to the mounting block, moving sideways, and moving for you to get on. He will stand still and take a step back before moving forward. It’s there and you are invited to view the whole process: https://montyrobertsuniversity.com/training/2031188578

11/4/2020: What is your opinion on horse rugs? I’ve read that they mess up the horse’s own heating system, but I can’t just go off one person’s opinion. I don’t think they are really needed, because horses in the wild don’t have rugs, and they survive, at least they don’t die from the cold often. Though at the same time, if you had a show horse that had only ever had a rug, then swapping it to being without one wouldn’t be great for it. But for horses and ponies that rarely have rugs on it wouldn’t be a problem to not use rugs ever again. I’m of the opinion that rugs are not needed, and are possibly not good for our horses. But, I’m eager to learn, and not only learn, but learn the truth.

Monty’s Answer: You’re right! Rugs (blankets) are not needed. I am a lifelong student of the American Mustang and they are some of the healthiest horses on the earth. Their feet are typically far superior to the domestic horse. While they may have a rough coat at times, their ability to withstand variations of temperatures is extremely high.

It is nice to have a beautiful coat on a show horse and many owners believe that horses are more comfortable in the winter when rugs are used. I don’t have a big problem with that philosophy but when it comes down to the nature of equus, blankets are seldom, if ever, necessary — unless the horse has been clipped, of course.

10/28/2020: Just wondered if I could ask your advice please. My horse is ridden in a loose ring snaffle (she’s also got a full cheek french link snaffle). She’s 26 and good as gold riding out on her own but when she’s in company she’s really hard to hold, she won’t walk, she just trots, then she bolts with me and throws me off. It’s just like she gets way too excited. I’ve had her 10 years and her previous owner said it was as a result of hunting and fun rides. Others from the yard have asked me to go with them and I’d love to but I need more brakes before I do. Which bit would you recommend I try? I also have a martingale if you think that might help? Do you have any other advice? Thanks!

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. A 26-year-old horse that has enough energy to trot and pull is, in many cases, a dream come true. Many horses have no energy by the time they are 26 or don’t even make it to 26. I recommend a shank bit with a leather curb strap and some tongue relief, not a straight bar Pelham. I am referring to a bit with a 5”- 6” cheek for leverage. Ride your horse in an enclosed area and school your senior mount to stand still. Standing still is achieved by stopping, lowering the hands to release any pressure, and then allowing 2-3 steps from the energetic horse.
After taking 2 or 3 steps, stop with as little pressure as possible and back up a few steps. It is quite possible that this horse will not back up. In that case, teach your horse to back up by getting a reverse step or two and then release and give a rub. If there are forward steps, only let it be 2-3 steps and stop again. Don’t ride your horse in the open country with company until you have complete control with the curb and the leather chin strap.

10/21/2020: My mare is really uneasy with clippers. I’ve been desensitizing her for the last 12 months. No rush. I have managed her body no problem at all but her legs, she hates. I managed front legs but she was kicking out with her back. How do I go about it?

Monty’s Answer: It is commendable that you are incrementally helping her become comfortable with clippers around her body. It is often the sound and vibration which bothers a horse. If your horse trusts you enough to clip her body now, the next step is for her to become tolerant of the buzzing on her legs. With a horse who cannot have certain areas of their body clipped (it is often the ears) my first procedure is to use plastic bags on a stick to rub her all over with an emphasis on the legs. The process is to approach her with the handle end of the stick first, keeping the plastic bags behind you, and rub gently at her withers which is a sweet spot on most horses.

If she is relaxed with that end, turn the stick around and repeat the rubbing with the plastic bags this time. Timing your bags to go away when she relaxes is imperative and you should study my lesson series on Horses Fear the Clippers on my Online University. It is now possible to buy electric toothbrushes almost anywhere. Get one, and tape it to a bamboo pole or similar light stick of some sort. Make it long enough so that you are completely out of any danger. I recommend the use of the Dually Halter so as to educate your horse to stand while you are out of the kick zone. Stroke your horse first with the toothbrush off.

Once you have her standing, allowing the toothbrush and the pole to touch her everywhere, then turn on the toothbrush and begin at the wither. Continue to work broadening the area you touch. It may take some time, but every horse will eventually learn to like the massage effect of the vibrating toothbrush. Give her a good reason to trust the sound as well as the vibrating movement. In everything you do with your horse, start with what is easier for the horse and work toward what is most difficult. When she shows even a small sign of relaxation, take the toothbrush away. Remember to work on both sides of your horse.

When ready and relaxed, use rechargeable clippers (no cord) to rub without clipping at first until she can tolerate that vibration too. Another tool you could employ is a rechargeable handheld massager over the withers first and then down on the legs. The experience your horse has should be completely pain free in order for her to learn to accept your clippers eventually. I think you will find the learning goes quite quickly when you have taken the incremental steps to introduce each level of sound and vibration to her. Let us know how it goes.

10/07/2020: How do I stop my fast horse without pulling hard on his mouth? I am a big fan of your work, and I have read your book. I am a hunter jumper, and ride English. My horse gets fast, and I don’t want to pull really hard on his mouth but that is the only thing that makes him stop. (Now, he doesn’t get dangerously fast, just fast enough for me to want to slow him down,) I have looked through the Q and A and my interpretation is that you said to back them up when they got fast, then proceed with a loose reign. My problem though is that I can’t stop him and back up without pulling hard on his mouth. How can I stop him and back up without causing him pain?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for sending through this question. It is gratifying to hear from a student who is studying my answers and resources to find the methods that are acceptable to horses. My years of studying equine behavior put me in a unique position to offer you ways to work with your horse safely and fairly, with their natural behaviors in place.

The particular answer you chose to inquire as to whether it applies to your horse who goes a bit faster than you ask, falls in the behavioral pattern that I would recommend. It seems your horse is not bolting so I will proceed along the lines that you want to allow your horse to listen to your hands without causing harsh pulling on his mouth. I am assuming that he is at a trot or a lope when his speed is of concern.

In a safe enclosure, with good footing, warm him up gently and wait for the unwanted speed to happen. My recommendation is to simply put him to work when he increases his speed without being asked to. With quiet hands, guide him in a tight circle, a few times around, and then straighten him on the fence again on a loose rein, keeping him working. If he chooses to speed again, put him back to work making circles. It is harder work to circle. When he sees the value in simply going down the fence guided by your gentle hands, he will soon figure out what is acceptable and what creates more work.

10/07/2020: I board my horse at a sanctuary/boarding ranch, and we have a horse that got here from a feedlot rescue, being unloaded from a trailer and set into the pasture. She’s been in this pasture for three years, untouched. She is fat and happy and wore her feet on her own. But she needs vet work done…the owner has had multiple people out here to work with this horse and they have roped her to get her into a round pen and tried all sorts of things. The slight raise in our hands and she is terrified. No one has been working with her for some time now, and the owner and I were able to herd her into a smaller pen in the pasture.

We have a nice gentle woman who will just sit with her and try to gain her trust. But, like I said, a slight raise in our hands or anything and she cowers. This horse obviously had some sort of trauma and so far the closest we can get trust in three years is feeding her a treat and a slight touch on her nose. I have seen mustangs less afraid… what should the owner do?

Monty’s Answer: One cannot imagine how many questions come through regarding sanctuary horses. Even though it is a minefield of problems, I consistently congratulate those who would attempt to create a better life for these precious individuals.

Imagine if you were a flight animal and some athletic individuals showed up, raised their arms in the air, swung a rope in circles and then cast it around your neck so that they could pull you into a smaller enclosure. I submit the next time somebody raised their hand, the flight animal would attempt to flee.

There are so many ways to accomplish these efforts without roping and forcing. I need to continue to remind people about my Equus Online University and my textbook, From My Hands to Yours. Neither one of these efforts is inclusive of roping the untrained horse.

Those who assist me in promoting my courses titled “Gentling Wild Horses” should realize that we need to be more diligent these days to fill these courses, as more caring individuals are reaching out to create better lives for untrained horses that are looking for a home.

We will keep trying, so you keep watching and we will attempt to fill in the required information.

09/30/2020: Does your horse buck when picking up the canter?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for the question. Without knowing the age of the horse or what has been done to prepare for the acceptance of the rider as well as the requests the rider might make, I am put in a difficult situation. It is my hope that you have made yourself aware of each of the incremental steps I go through to prepare for these various experiences. If your horse wants to buck upon entering the canter, then I suggest that there has been less preparation than I would recommend.

You bring up a point which should be addresses on my Online University if it has not already been well covered. My textbook From My Hands to Yours probably does not address this issue sufficiently. Those of us who have spent a lifetime with horses often take too many circumstances for granted. Watch my Online University as I intend to cover the subject of transitions as completely as possible. Keep sending your questions through, as this is the second week in a row I have discovered with your help that, even though we have over 600 lessons on the Monty Roberts University, we still have ground we need to cover. The learning never stops!

09/23/2020: Hello! 200 lessons completed, Monty! I was recently watching Monty’s videos on flying lead changes and I love the idea of keeping it as simple as possible. I have two OTTBs (Off The Track Thoroughbreds) who are doing flying changes all of the time, but I have one Quarter Horse Paint who I would like to actually spend some time on flying lead changes.

Going through the videos, Monty has the opposite leg to cue for the flying change, and I like that idea as I’ve grown up Hunter/Jumper/Eq and it’s all about which rein to pull, placement of the legs, and pushing them onto the other lead. However, my concern is with keeping them balanced around the figure 8 and not falling in. Monty’s demonstration with his horse who seems to have the training / natural bend and balance keeps repeating of holding the outside leg around the turns for simplification. I suspect he or some people would use that inside leg for preventing the horse from falling it, but I’m curious on when coming back to the straight away and the X for the cue, how to differentiate effectively that leg that was asking for inside bend to now asking for the opposite lead?

I plan to play with this and input some of my experience. I’m really trying to go back to foundational flat work as I will admit it wasn’t as big of a priority as it should’ve been years ago when all of our horses were younger (and I’m now old enough to recognize that at 24).

But that is my main concern of balancing the act of letting them move forward naturally and keeping it simple with aiding them and reminding them to stay balanced, especially around a turn, so that we do not fall on our faces. This also goes into the fact that I’ve also done a lot of neck rope work and often ride in a bitless, both of which I love, and making sure all of this training is primarily coming from my seat, leg aids, and voice cues so as to help my horse the best I can and prevent confusion.

Thoughts or experiences? Thank you!

Monty’s Answer: It’s great you asked! After reading your description of the challenge at hand I have come to the conclusion that your understanding of legs and leads is far short of what I consider necessary. When you wrote that riders use the inside leg to keep falling in then I know that your understanding is off track. As I answer this question it causes me to question whether we have adequately covered “riders’ legs” and “horses’ leads” to the degree necessary on our Online University. Recently there was another circumstance with a rider I have worked with for many years doing something which I consider totally unacceptable.

Please forgive me for not diving into the question you pose with words in an email. It is critical that a proper video be made so as to demonstrate the techniques which I have used successfully for well over 60 years. It would be great to create an ongoing dialog with you as I set up this project to create the physical actions necessary to answer the questions you pose. Everyone out there who is interested in lead changing should watch for upcoming video presentations that will completely describe these actions.

09/19/2020: Our horse, Aslan, likes to bite the lead rope and when we school him with a Dually Halter, he tries to move our elbow. How can we correct it?

Monty’s Answer: The best choice that I know of with horses who chew on the lead rope is to spray the rope with a substance that tastes awful. My staff use chili powder and dress the rope with the chili mixed in oil and seem to do quite well at stopping this habit. Cross ties can also answer this question but obviously that is only when the horse is tied. I am not one to do a lot of schooling while holding the horse on a rope. It tends to create aggravation between horse and human.

My suggestion would also be to study the Dually Halter lessons on my University again, or watch the DVD that came with the halter. They emphasize how timing and schooling keeps your horse alert and in partnership with you, rather than letting his mind wander.

09/09/2020: I am feeling very grateful to “Join-Up” with you on here. I saw you live at Solihull Riding club in the UK, many years ago – fantastic – you stopped a horse from biting in about two minutes – amazing!

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your communication regarding a learning curve you experienced after seeing one of my demonstrations. It is so gratifying, at this stage of my life, to sit back and watch the next generation make sense of concepts that I have recognized and dealt with regarding equine behavior. I would like to encourage anyone who feels they have gained from suggestions I’ve made to respond in the way you have. It is my belief that this encourages the next generation to use the non-violent techniques that have enhanced my career for all these decades.

Below is a link to my lesson on biting. It works well. https://montyrobertsuniversity.com/training/2031189070

09/01/2020: Is there a good way to train/compete in barrel racing? I would love to try it but really dislike the use of whips/spurs. Is there a good way to do this for the horse?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for asking this question because I have for decades felt that there was too much use of spurs and whips in barrel racing. As these two items are used, I feel it is highly likely that they create a slower time than they do a faster time.

Spurs in particular tend to harden the muscles and tense the body which actually tends to slow it down. If one uses the whip only from the third barrel to the ‘out gate’ I suppose there is a possibility some horses would tend to speed up. It is my opinion that a properly trained horse wants to run the barrels as fast as they can and needs no whips or spurs.

The judicious rider will have someone timing the segments of the barrel race and then will repeat those actions which causes the fastest time. It is not rocket science, nor should it be a forceful effort. Test it, and let us know what you find.

08/26/2020: Hello Monty, I’m Brazilian and it’s a pleasure writing to you. Here in Brazil we have a breed of horses whose main quality is the comfort of the rider, the breed is called Mangalarga Marchador. In this sense we have marching tests to evaluate the best horses with the best gear and their types. Assessing the rider’s comfort, elegance of the gait and morphology of the animal. In the United States of America do you also have a “test" in any event in order to choose the most comfortable and soft horse? If so what proof would it be?

monty’s Answer: Thank you for an interesting inquiry. Let me say that I was made a qualified horse show judge by the American Horse Show Association in 1949. I relinquished my judges card in 1966 when we began our work here at Flag Is Up Farms principally in the Thoroughbred racing industry. This certainly does not mean that I forgot all that I learned about judging the elements you have outlined. You probably know that I have conducted demonstrations in Belo Horizonte at the championship show for the Mangalarga Marchedor.

It is fair to say that I was very impressed with the gait of these horses and could fully understand how they became important to the large agricultural properties. An owner who could ride for long distances and come home without being sore and exhausted was fortunate to have the Mangalarga Marchedor as his transportation. You probably know that I was not impressed with the methods used by the professionals who were executing the procedure we would call ‘breaking the horse’. It was filled with unnecessary violence.

The Peruvian Paso, the Paso Fino, the Tennessee Walking Horse, the Rocky Mountain horse and the Icelandic horses apparently began their domesticated life in geographic locations fairly near one another. I have always been impressed with the ’tolt’. I have to tell you that the older I get the more impressive these horses are. I have had very little to do with any of the tolting horses in my career but that does not keep me from appreciating many of the qualities they bring to their owners and the rest of the family.

We have tests in the USA but I don’t believe the Mangalarga Marchedor has been included in these tests. The Peruvian Paso and the Paso Fino have very specific tests. The Icelandic have tests set up by the ‘owners associations’ which are in various locations, coast to coast in the USA. I have seen some of these tests and I was very impressed. The TWH has incredibly large shows to test their respective gaits. There are a few competitions for the Rocky Mountain horse but I believe this is far fewer than the others that I mentioned so far.

There was a time in the 1950s and early 60s when I was in charge of putting together judges conferences. These were to teach the horse show judges what to look for and how to score the various disciplines that are brought forward in the USA horse shows. Your question strongly leads me to remember a deep interest I had in how to judge the ‘Western Pleasure horse’. They are popular in the USA and Canada. Their gait is absolutely critical to their score.

When I was in this position, I attempted to help every potential judge define the requirements having to do with selecting the winner of each competition. In that quest, I would suggest that they watch closely the back of the horse and score with the highest numbers the ’top line’ that traveled level with the ground surface. This was important at all three gaits in the Western Pleasure Horse. In addition, I would want the horse to have a very steady head and neck that remained sensitive to the rider’s requests.

In addition to what I wanted the horse to do, I taught my judges to view closely the shoulders of the rider. The smoothest gait will produce the motionlessness of the rider’s shoulders. The rider should execute the walk trot and canter with the Western Horse without seeming to request anything from the horse. This requires the best horse to be quiet and yet very sensitive. In the Hunter division it was mostly Thoroughbreds and I used similar parameters to find the best in the class in the ridden Hunter division.

My wife Pat chose a mare in the early 1960s to compete in the Western Pleasure division. The mare’s name was Julia’s Doll and she rose to a position of the third highest in the USA. There were tens of thousands of competitors in that division but this was an incredibly ‘level moving’ mare which granted the rider the smoothest experience one could have on a horse’s back. I believe a judge has to view every motion made by horse and rider and choose the competitor who is the best at the actions I have described.

08/19/2020: Hi Monty great to see you live streaming recently! I have just taken on a 15-year-old female Warmblood, on loan. She has a history of being abused and is quite twitchy with me. Can you give me some pointers on gaining her confidence so she doesn’t see me as a threat. I have tried food treats and gentle talking but she is clearly on her guard with me. I so want to make her happy.

Monty’s Answer: It is true that for the past 10 years or so my principle work has been with remedial horses and not those that are simply in training without the mistakes of human beings. It sounds as though you are a brave lady to take on a 15-year-old horse that has been abused in the past. As a realist I would say you have one chance in a hundred to overcome these behaviors that have taken 15 years to imprint themselves on the horse in question. For her, it is great that you have taken up the challenge. For you, it seems a daunting task.

In your question, I never heard the term Join-Up®. I never heard the words Dually halter. What I did hear, loud and clear, were the words ‘food’ and ‘treat’. I have so often said that food is a very bad reward for a horse. In nature, no blade of grass has ever run from a horse. Consequently, horses do not well at considering food a reward. Used with the remedial horse, selecting food to be a part of the learning process generally does one thing, 100% of the time. This new remedial consequence is called ‘biting the human being.’

There are almost 650 lessons on my Monty Roberts University. I believe it is fair to say that virtually half of them mention to start your relationship with your horse with Join-Up. It is probably true that a large number of them discuss the use of the Dually halter. Both of these procedures are, in my opinion, just about mandatory for me when dealing with any horse exhibiting negative behavior. My textbook From My Hands to Yours would be a pathway for you to find how I would choose to deal with the behavior you have given me a glimpse of. Please inform us of how it is going.

08/12/2020: What is the most subtle evidence of acceptance from a horse? Working with a mustang who I’ve never seen lick and chew, blink, sigh, yawn. Yet I’ve gotten him through haltering and even cinching bareback pad. Do I need to go way back to beginning? I have not done Join-Up…he’s at a rescue and they don’t have the perfect facilities.

Monty’s Answer: Please keep in mind that licking and chewing is the manifestation of the reduction of adrenaline. It is a sign of relaxation. I cannot remember a single mustang who didn’t eventually lick and chew. You don’t have complete relaxation and you ought to continue to try to get it. Read all you can about Join-Up®. Send away, and invite in, repeating this process until you get relaxation.

Learn as much as possible what the human should do and what should be expected from the horse. Licking and chewing and lowering the head are two very important gestures. I guarantee you, you will get it when you successfully conduct the human gestures I have outlined for the Join-Up process. I would suggest not going much further until you caused this relaxation to occur.

The facility is not important, the actions are. Find or create an enclosure that has sides that are at least 5-5.5 feet in height, straight up and down. For safety if you use panels, a clearance from the ground of 10-14 feet is best. A diameter of 16 meters is right for a saddle horse, about 50 feet across, remembering that every two feet more adds four around.

08/05/2020: Hi Monty, I’m a new horse owner and I have a 20-month-old colt I’ve never done a Join-Up with. He’s already pretty connected to me. Would it benefit me to do one and should I wait until he’s a little older?

Monty’s Answer: My book, From My Hands to Yours, has a section on what I recommend regarding when and how much to do in the area of Join-Up. If you read that, you will realize that you are already well past the point where I would have done my first Join-Up with them. It is my position that Join-Up done properly will always be beneficial.

Twenty months is a prime time to be sure that the horse is familiar with a partnership with human beings. I recommend the first is shortly after weaning. By twenty months I would be doing 2 to 3 Join-Ups within a week’s time. Get busy and I think you will find it beneficial.

07/29/2020: My mate chomps at the bit when she starts to get anxious she has a nervous problem from previous riding , how do I stop this she stops for a minute when I say no ?

Monty’s Answer: Don’t just say no. I can say no to you, and you and I know what it means. The horse will understand tone and is sensitive to the vibrations of the spoken word. If it helps you to say the word ‘no’ because you feel there is an improvement in the behavior of your horse, then go ahead and continue to say no but simply realize that no and whoa are far beyond any capability of the horse to differentiate. The answer to your question, as it comes to me after 80 years of dealing with horses, is to learn what I have discovered in terms of causing the horse to be comfortable and responsive to requests made by you.

I realize that it is impossible for you to paraphrase each and every problem you and your horse share. The good news is in this that because of my 80 years of study, the information is there. In recent years it has been reduced to the written word in eight books. It is clearly defined in over 600 lessons on my Online University.

There is no way that I could ever seek out from afar each of the actions you are doing properly, nor could I identify what I consider to be actions I consider improper. The point is that I clearly believe I have surpassed all other horse persons in the area of living in the world of Equus. It’s also fair to add that I have lived since the discovery of motion pictures, videos and the computer, which have helped to document and verify Equus.

If I have any exceptional powers, it is my opinion that they lay in the area of ‘observation’. I miss very little in what a horse is trying to convey. Modern technology has allowed me to capture these behavioral traits. Read about them. Visually assess them and put them to work. You will be amazed at the uplift you will experience with your horse.

It is my solemn promise to you that if you follow this advice you will answer the questions that I simply cannot identify without my presence. Should you follow my advice I promise you will likely not assume that I fell short of my answer to you. At 85, I don’t care how many books or video lessons are purchased but I do care how my inquiring horse persons solve the problems. Give me 6-8 months of following this advice and then please report to me the outcome I have generated.

07/22/2020: Hello, I love everything you stand for with making the world a better place for horses. If I could just have one minute of your time with a quick reply. I’m working on a project to help my clients who have been in riding accidents or just lost their confidence. Have you ever taken a hit on your confidence when working with horses or other aspects of your life, if so what did you do to boost yourself up and overcome it? Thank you so much for your time. I have looked up to you my whole life.

Monty’s Answer: You have to realize that I wasn’t in the horse business until I was three years old. You must be aware that as a child there were many circumstances that frightened me. You should know that my father was one to cast me into situations fraught with danger. My work with horses in a non-violent fashion as I grew up lead me to understand that they mean no harm to a human being. It was then my responsibility to handle each situation as aware of their environment as much as I could possibly be.

Once I was fully aware of the underlying principles of equine life, I could never lose my confidence. I often say to students ‘Look in the mirror. You are the problem, not the horse’. Change your own actions that simply don’t take your confidence away. The better you are a student of the horse, the more confident you will be. When we get it right, there is every reason to be confident.

07/15/2020: I have started to ask my horses to ground tie, often side-by-side for tacking up and just working with them on the ground asking them to be quiet and stand by themselves without fussing against the gate, or a rope or anything. I have also started to take a few minutes before every ride to let them stand tacked up quietly, ground tied, and have noticed them actually dozing off and kind of meditate. It has made a huge difference in how quiet and calm they are on the trail. What do you think of this technique? Is it a good thing to ask horses to stand ground tied while tacking up?

Monty’s Answer: Congratulations for taking the time to make these observations. I have no problem with the ground tie procedure. I simply would want no chance that the horse could step on a rein and injure his mouth. I feel sure you have taken measures to prevent this.

Your discovery that relaxation extends itself to circumstances later in the day’s experiences is impressive. It is so true that relaxation and cooperation build on the human observation that these circumstances are comfort inducing.

07/08/2020: I’m attempting to separate my gelding from stable mate. He has severe separation anxiety. What do you suggest?

Monty’s Answer: Don’t leave him alone! My best advice is to take him to a neighbor’s place where they have a safe holding facility and leave him near other horses to begin the process of separation. If it is absolutely necessary to leave him alone, he must be left in the safest possible stable, and do that only if there is no other alternative.

Separation anxiety is rapidly becoming one of the most important remedial problems of our time. I suppose with properties becoming smaller, and horses being kept in close proximity, this bonding process is becoming more and more pervasive. Horses are herd animals. They rely upon the presence of other familiar animals to feel safe. It might be a goat, or a sheep, it might even be a dog or a cat.

People can even be a calming influence if the horse regards the person as a friend. There is a lesson in this somewhere. Read my textbook, From My Hands to Yours, as it will expand on many details that I am not able to include in this Question and Answer format. Please read chapter 10, page 178 containing details on separation anxiety.

07/01/2020: I’d love some advice to help more safely handle my 11-year-old Quarter Horse gelding. He is a former ranch horse who we believe was handled roughly; he can go from being relaxed, to spooky and reactive. He typically seems to be more reactive when in an enclosed space, and feels “trapped”. I have worked hard over the past year to build up his trust.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much. This is an interesting and informative question. One must first remember that horses never forget anything. With that in mind, we must be aware that circumstances involving their environment will call to mind past experiences.

It is gratifying that you have observed the volatile behavior when your horse is in an area small and confining. It will be fun for you to continue to investigate what promotes these behaviors. I suggest that you then begin to repeat these experiences incrementally deepening the environmental factors.

Once you recognize an area of concern, then rub your horse, scratch his withers, rub his head and attempt to cause him complete comfort without the suspicion you could be violent.
You will see a gradual improvement and it will cause you to become more aware of all of the traits, positive and negative, your horse expresses. Thank you for the question and let us know how it goes.

06/24/2020: I need help with a behavior that my youngster is doing. She has always pawed at the ground when she is getting impatient, for example when tied up or you have asked her to stand still and she wants to go and investigate. However, over the past few days when I give her a treat she eats it and then tries to paw me to get another one. I appreciate a lot of people will say don’t give treats, and if this is what I need to do to stop the behavior then that is what I will do, but I do like to reward her with a treat when we are training.

But I was wondering… I have read online that if a youngster gets nippy when teething to never tell them off as it can become a game to them and I was wondering if instead of telling her off (when she has pawed towards me I have been telling her no in a firm voice and making her take two steps backwards) would it be possible to use this to train her something new instead of telling her off. So when she paws, to pick up the leg and tell her paw as we would a dog and then give her a reward for this or would this encourage an unwanted behaviour and therefore it’s best to let her know that in no circumstances is it okay to lift a leg in my direction?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for this question. At this time I am going to go back to the first day of any Horsemanship 101 to give you the information you desperately need. Without knowing it, you are training your horse to become more proficient with the use of bad manners. Take a breath, sit back and realize that you need a whole new perspective on improving the behavior of horses in general. It is with that in mind I will outline the basic elements you need.

Having pondered your question, I decided it is very valuable for tens of thousands of horse owners. Your question reminds me that I still have a lot of work to do. Your mindset is about as far from my concepts as you could get. Please let me say that my textbook From My Hands to Yours has ample information regarding your question. My Online University has many offerings that speak to the elements you have outlined. No blade of grass has ever run from a horse. While predators consider their food a trophy, no horse for 50 million years has had to stalk or kill in order to devour a blade of grass.

Horses are flight animals and, in addition, they are classified as grazers. Horses typically eat grass. This grass grows from the ground and never runs away from them. Their food is provided by nature and is most often never touched by human hand before being eaten. With this in mind, one must realize that the food for horses has never run from them, so food from the hand is not accepted by the horse as a treat. In your question, you outlined that your horse displays unacceptable and dangerous behavior. Giving a treat to stop this behavior is unacceptable and will cause the horse to increase the bad behavior. Never feed from the hand.

Backing the horse up whenever bad behavior is expressed is a good idea. Attempting to reward the horse against bad behavior with food from the hand is a fallacy without any question. In my books and Online University I outline that the instant bad behavior is experienced, you can bump the shin of the horse with the side of your foot to distract him. A few repeats of this discipline will cause the biter to contemplate biting and then quickly look down at the shin.

You have taken the time to insert this question when information regarding this subject is explained in detail in the two formats I have recommended. The Dually Halter will assist in the disciplinary actions you create when putting together your reaction to this bad behavior. Let us know how it’s going and if need be, ask other questions as you progress through this effort.

06/17/2020: I have a horse who is a retired lesson horse who I adopted from my trainer. He turns 26 this month, I started the Dually Halter with him and my question is, will I be able to change some behaviors he has done like biting me when I mount him since he has been allowed to do this his whole life?

Monty’s Answer: While this sort of question comes through to me quite often, it must indicate that the world of ‘equine understanding’ must process the answer and adopt some of the practices, but not all. I must not be doing a very good job of getting my points across.

At 26, the behavioral patterns of any horse are well established. The behavior of biting humans is trained into the horse by homo sapiens. In the case of a retired lesson horse, just imagine the number of times that a child has brought a treat to give his favorite animal. Every book I’ve written and every lesson I’ve given has informed students that feeding from the hand causes biting.

Attempting to change the behavior of this 26 year old is virtually impossible and frankly not very fair. You must accept the fact that you will have to protect yourself and attempt to learn ways to avoid serious injuries to yourself or others while choosing to escort this horse through his final years.

I could go through the chapters I’ve written on why horses bite, but let me ask you to read that chapter in my textbook, From My Hands to Yours, and attempt to be fair with a horse that has given his life to humans learning to ride.

06/10/20 I would like to ask some advice from you about a 7-year-old mare. She is an Oldenburger sport horse. She was been started in a traditional way, and the owner told me she was totally fine with the first rider. She was been started by a young girl who is the daughter of the owner.

After a couple of rides, she just stopped in the corner of the riding arena and started to kick towards the center, but slowly she became normal again. Her jumping carrier started fine, she jumped every fence without any problems. Then at the first competition she refused to jump any fence and started to spin with the rider until the rider fell off. Then the owner asked a professional jumper to ride her and she was jumping at the competitions as well. This has been the situation for more than four years.

After that, the owner decided that he wants his daughter to ride this horse again, but the old problem came back. She is 100% fine during the training, she is 100% fine when there are more horses in the arena, and she is also 100% fine at the warming up area. But she is only jumps one or two obstacles during the actual competition before she starts to spin around and refuses to go forward again, she rears up and bucks the rider off.

She is very easy to handle, transport etc. The owner said that this problem only starts at competitions and only when a female rider is on her. When a male rider is going in the arena with her, she is quite nervous at the first jump, but when the rider is confident and rides firmly enough she jumps without any problems. She has been competing at 120 to 130 cm jump height.

My idea is, that this attitude comes from a lack of confidence and I think she learned this behavior. Do you think it would be a good idea to try to go in the arena at a competition, but much lower height, 80 to 90 cm, jump one or two fences and just finish it, before she decides to refuse to go forward again?
She was checked by the vet, teeth and everything, but because she is fine during the training I do not think that this is a physical problem. Please let me know what do you think.

Monty’s Answer: After the hundreds of questions that have come through for my online Q&A, one would have to believe that there is simply no longer a new one. Obviously that is not true. A question has come through from Hungary. It was couched so as to not reveal the names of the people or even the horse. I will attempt to answer this because I suppose it’s time to face some facts about the mind of the horse, how it works and how we attempt to learn to relate to their behavior. Let me use the words of a friend of the owner who was translating from the Hungarian language.

“We have an Oldenberger mare that has been with us for at least four years. My daughter did the first riding of this mare and she was started with very little problem. After a few months of riding, we began to negotiate cavalettis and small fences. There was no problem and the mare appeared to have the ability to compete right through the world of showjumping. After a limited number of rides, our mare would simply stop, facing the fence and kick out with both hind feet toward the center of the arena. My daughter worked her through this and the mare seemed to be progressing quite well. We entered our mare in a few small show with low level competition and small fences. She seemed to progress and we believed we had a good chance to have a showjumping winner.

As we progressed through the early stages of our showjumping mare’s career, the problem returned but in a slightly different way. We could handle her with no problem. She loaded on the vehicle and with no behavioral negativity we went off to several of these small competitions. Gradually she began to return to the early negative behavior. At first she was fine in the warm up ring, but began to stop at the warm up fences, reverse her direction and kick out behind. My daughter is a good rider and there was no problem with her staying on the mare, but it took some time to get her to negotiate the fences in the warm up ring. Just as I was feeling our mare was improving, we then discovered that entering the competition ring she would return to the same negative behavior.

We sent the mare to a man who has a good reputation with showjumping horses. We believe he has not fully defined how he handled our mare, but he took her to competitions and gradually had her jumping 120 to 130 cm., even when facing these fences in the show ring itself. When our daughter tried to duplicate the circumstances outlined, the mare would go to the warm up ring beautifully. She would pop over a few warm up fences with what seemed to be no problem at all. When asked to enter the show ring and was actually in competition, she immediately reverted to the early negative behavior. Our mare would not jump one fence when asked to do so when it was actually in a competition in the main arena of several different show grounds we traveled to.

We simply don’t know what to do at this point in time because we have beautiful mare in the prime of life and she has decided that while she will jump with a man on her back, she will not jump for any female rider, even one of the highest professional levels. A professional female rider can in fact get her to jump some fences in the warm up ring, but when our mare is asked to go into the actual competition ring, she changes immediately. When competition and a judge is involved even the highest level female rider cannot negotiate one fence. We have tried everything. We have traveled to different locations and even presented to have a competition with friends as officials. As soon as she is asked to g into the main arena, jumping becomes impossible.”

Okay, it’s my turn to answer this incredible question. First I have to through away 80 years of studying the minds of a horse. If I am to take this question and accept it as written, then I must decide that against all studies horses know when they are in competition and when they are not. I would have to assume that a horse can identify an official and separate that official from the rest of the human race. I would have to go further and conclude that a horse can look at a given riding area and decide whether it is a warm up ring or the main competition area. This question would also ask me to agree that horses can differentiate between the difference between men and women and decide who they want on their back before they agree to behave or misbehave.

Of course, none of these things are true. Horses cannot read the newspaper about an upcoming horse show. Horses cannot fill out an entry form nor can they decide what city they are going to and that it is for competition. When the horse is on the new ground, they cannot decide whether they are being scored by judge or whether they are warming up in a insignificant area or an area very important. Horses cannot relate to a structure of purse money and they have no idea what a trophy is or even a small ribbon (rosette). Any horse including the one in this question, waits until the rider gives them these answers. They simply read the messages sent from the core of the rider through the human body. We must realize that horses simply never forget.

The circumstances described in the life of this horse paint an unmistakeable picture of a young lady who clearly gave the horse a feeling of uncertainty, way back in those early days. The mare waited until the next thing happened and then as the requests moved upward she tested the rider’s core and decided when to take charge. This mare believed that taking charge was the answer to finding a safe place. Whether it was small jumps or large, a little arena or a large one, the mare was still reading the core of the rider. No horse can differentiate competition from non-competition. It’s the human that sends the message through that there is an elevated sensitivity within the care of that rider. The change was clear when moving from the warm up ring to the main arena.

When this mare was sent off to a male trainer, she became a winning jumper, not because it was a male rider, but because this particular male rider had confidence in his abilities and clearly showed no insecurities down deep in his core. The mare found comfort in that and went to work.This is not rocket science. It is perfectly clear what has happened here. If I had the opportunity I believe I could discover insecurities in the core of the female riders chosen to attempt jumping competition with this mare. I could fill this page with the names of female riders who can ride this sort of horse as well and some better than any male on this earth. Security and full understanding of the horse’s needs is what is critical here. It should not be a story of this mare reading the minds of her riders.

It is not the mare that needed to be trained in some unique way to accept all riders on her back. She has been habituated to reading her first rider who gave insecurities through to her. That’s the way the mind of equus works. Each of our horses was born with primary goal of life which is to be in a safe place. Horses have only two goals in life. One is to reproduce and the other is to survive. Once one begins to believe that their horse can differentiate between a judge and an attendant in a warm up ring, that person is traveling down the wrong path. Typically in all of these cases it is the people in the life of the horse that need to be educated and it is seldom that some other way to educate the horse is the answer to the question.

06/03/2020: While listening to the Live Ask Monty, I had a question about training my gelding. (It is long.)

Some background on my horse: I got him when he had just turned 12 and he has just now turned 15 a week ago. He’s an Anglo Arab (Thoroughbred-Arab cross) that has some distant history as a dressage horse and more recently was a lady’s endurance horse.

He lived mostly in a stall with small turnout. Now he lives out in a herd of 25 horses on two 60-acre pastures. When I purchased him, he did flex positive for arthritis in his hocks.

When I ride, I mostly ride out in the open fields and trails, and he loves it. He will NOT pick up his right lead for canter ever, including the round pen. He will do so when he’s running with his buddies in the pasture. He also hates, truly hates, ridden work in any arena at home. Away from home it’s different as he is usually too interested in the new surroundings. He is sluggish at the walk and trot. When asked to canter he balks, swishes his tail and throws up his head. If I get the canter, it’s for a few strides and he quits. I have recently purchased a Giddy Up rope but have not had the chance to use it in the arena yet.

My question is this: how do I understand the line between potential pain response from him and a learned behavior of getting his own way?

His previous owner was very indulgent when he didn’t want to do something. He’s extremely intelligent, brave and sensitive. I have learned more from this horse than any of my previous horses.

Thank you for taking the time to consider my question.

Monty’s Answer: A few weeks ago I turned 85 years of age. It seems to me that it is time that everyone around me should understand that I have fully developed the way I want to live. They should realize that I have certain preferences and habits that they may find less than acceptable. Let me say to those people that my life has been established and whether I like it or not the decisions I have made over these past 85 years are, essentially, mine to live with. If my friends, relatives and individuals closest to me do not care for my choices, my message to them would be, “Get over it.” It is my choice to live this way, and it is not appropriate to try to change me at this point in time.

If Blue is 15 years of age, let’s use five times that to establish the age in human terms. This would make Blue 70 if he was human. I suggest that you accept Blue for what he has established is his chosen lifestyle. If it involves anything dangerous, then yes, use the Dually halter, control the danger and go on from there to get along with Blue in the best way you can. As far as the Giddy Up rope is concerned, that is an item to cause the horse to go forward more agreeably than without the Giddy Up rope. With a 15 year old, I’m not sure the Giddy Up rope is the piece of equipment I would suggest. The equipment needed is a human brain that will love a horse named Blue.

In no way do I want you to be unsafe. It is virtually impossible to think of the Giddy Up rope as a piece of equipment to cause a greater amount of safety for the horse or yourself. If Blue is ready for retirement and you are ready to retire him, then do it, but love him in retirement if you ever loved him at all. I remember retiring Johnny Tivio, with four world championships, he was a ‘go-getter.’ He would attempt to be the very best at conquering challenges which required speed and agility. When I retired him, I rode him often and I let him do what he wanted to do. It was fun to sit on his back and watch him make his choices. I loved him and wanted a good retirement for him.

At the time of retirement, Johnny Tivio was 11 years of age and had accomplished a most incredible list of achievements. He died 14 years later, on his exact birth date and his last 14 years were what I believed to be the most fun for him. He was a cutting and reined cow horse. I let him work cattle in those last years. During those years, I never scolded him for making a mistake, but I have to say during that time he was virtually perfect. I often laughed when he did what seemingly impossible. We would simply stop and I would stroke his neck telling him what a great horse he was. Begin to see life through Blue’s eyes, and let him know you appreciate him in retirement.

05/27/2020: know this will not be responded to or only the auto-response that you always send. That’s OK – I don’t need a response, but I hope Monty might see this or be told about it – though on the other hand, he’ll probably get lots of messages like mine. I hope so.

I’m a psychotherapist and have worked with trauma for 25 years – often due to family violence of one kind or another – and I’m filled with respect for you, Mr. Roberts. You allowed the Sister to influence you when you were young, and developed a way of knowing who to trust, especially Mrs. Roberts and the Queen. You have lived, I’m sure imperfectly because none of us is perfect, an exemplary life. I’m so grateful for your work with horses and humans, and feel quite sure that represents your attitude to all living creatures. Your life is a blessing to all of us.

Monty’s Answer: Please do not ever harbor the notion that a message like this is less than music to my ears. If my life has been led as you have described, and I believe it has, then to be reminded of the wonderful work of people such as Sister Agnes Patricia and The Queen is a joy far more important than most people would ever realize. Please do not think that the decisions I made as a child have been entirely easy.

None of us can report that we live in a perfect world or that those around us respect and encourage us to live in the fashion that Sister Agnes Patricia wanted for me. Your experience will tell you that you yourself have disappointments within a close proximity that you only wish could see the light. Your message and your presence is critically important to me especially in April, 2020. I pray for your safety and your contentment.


05/20/2020: I wanted to know, if I am training a three-year-old filly to respond to my hands, can I use the Dually halter and the driving lines or long lines with a saddle instead of a surcingle?

Monty’s Answer: There is no problem using a saddle. Watch my videos so you can fix the stirrups under the horse so that they can be used as guides for the long lines.

05/13/2020: I’m a new subscriber, Monty, and I am thoroughly enjoying reading through your Online University site, and watching the videos that are available. As well as being horse-aware, understanding and interpreting their language, I can see that you are also very human-aware! You have a restful, non-threatening way about you that allows your message to be easily heard and accepted. I am thankful to have this learning opportunity!

My question for you: in your work with PTSD sufferers, have you found that there are certain signs to look for, and body language that can be used by another person to convey safety, and to reinforce trust? A loved one lives with painful past trauma. Looking back over the years, I realize that at times the storm passes over quickly, and at other times the suffering is prolonged. I cannot see, however, what exactly made the difference. It would be wonderful to have sort of a template to follow, signs to look for and body language or spoken language, to employ that would allow trust-building and relaxation to take place.

Thank you for being a source of helpful information and positivity!

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your thoughtful inquiry. There are two factors that were massively responsible for the outcome of my life. One is easy for me to recommend. The love of flight animals and the time I spend with them critically causes me to understand the level of tranquility they possess. Also, the factor of fear rears its head when they feel threatened. Tranquility and fear guide their entire life. Anger and acts of violence do not even cross the mind of the typical flight animal. These factors being stated, I can say unequivocally that I recommend becoming deeply acquainted with flight animals. Recognize their needs and their overall personality and you will have fifty percent of what a human needs to be reasonable with themselves and others around them.

The other factor informing my existence was the violent acts of my father in those early years of growing up. His violence was so grave that it tended to cause me to be obsessed with changing my life to create a personality the opposite of what my father was. It isn’t easy and I know that I went through years of flashing to violence on many occasions. The chain of violence is extremely hard to break. Without Sister Agnes Patricia and the horses, I don’t know if I could have been successful in meeting and accepting these concepts. There were times when I simply wanted to hurt other humans. Don’t kid yourself. This is a fact that crosses the brain of every victim of violence I have worked with throughout my nearly 70 years of experience.

Obviously, I would never suggest that parents beat their children so that they see the fallacy of violence. It is also true that I would never recommend to a child that they volunteer to be violently treated so that they can learn to break the chain. These factors must be thought through, studied and accepted into the lives of people who want to lead their existence on this earth in a tranquil fashion and in the absence of violence. Sister Agnes Patricia and The Queen have encouraged me to study these factors and to pass them on to the generations to come. To say that I am proud to be their assistant in this endeavor would be a great understatement. I only wish I would have started earlier and worked harder, but I am trying to make up for it now.

05/06/2020: I think there may be a few over-fresh horses coming out at the end of lockdown, with riders who will be challenged to sit a buck. I’d love to get some advice from you on the “staying on” part. I think I can sit a buck pretty well as riding racehorses taught me to grip with my ankles. There are many roads to Rome though. How does your dressage-trained rider stay on for a rodeo? Would you have some words of wisdom on this please.

Monty’s Answer: Isn’t it coincidental I was planning to ride Chrome today so I could school a particular Thoroughbred to respond to the Dually Halter while being led from another horse. Since Chrome has had an uneventful month or so, I was wondering what to do with him because he will tend to buck when he is fresh. I think your idea is a good one and should be valuable to horsemen worldwide. To my way of thinking, the most important part of these ‘fresh horse’ rides is what you do before you get on. Prior to putting yourself in the saddle, there is very little chance of being injured by a fresh horse. Once you have a leg on each side of him, you belong to him. The fresh horse can buck you off even if he is the kindest character you could ever imagine.

It is what Equus is. Equus represents a flight animal with a world of energy and a deep temptation to buck and play, especially when fresh. Whether the bucking is entertainment for the horse or a serious attempt to get one off of his back, injuries occur under either of those conditions. Before I get on Chrome today, I intend to first put him in a turn out to ’stretch his legs’ and then have him saddled and released once again in a safe enclosure, watching that he doesn’t roll. While I have round pens, any small enclosure with good fencing and reasonable footing will do. I have some rectangular ‘turn outs’ on our farm which are about 20 by 40 meters (20 × 40 yards). I have used these with Chrome before and found him to be very prone to buck, run and play for four or five minutes. After about four or five more minutes, with no bucking, I then feel safe to mount.

There was a time in my life when I would simply saddle a horse of this description and get straight on. I found it to be fun to have some bucking and playing under me. Remember, I spent two years riding bulls in professional rodeo. Do not fall into this same category. There is no fun in wearing a cast and it is not right to subject your horse to being listed as another horse who caused an injury. It isn’t fair to the species and we should show them far more responsibility than my former actions would express. Injuries are not fun to horses or humans; if you have followed my techniques from the beginning with your horse, I would suggest to even resort to the long lining experienced in the early stages of the process of training the horse one now rides for pleasure.

Somewhere in my eight books I suggested that one of the ‘Golden Rules’ of good horsemanship is to print with a bold red marker on a piece of paper, ‘SAFETY FIRST.’ Place one of these reminders in your tack room, another in your feed room, one in your car and one more on the refrigerator that you visit several times a day. The lack of attention to safety has caused more people to give up on horses because of irresponsible accidents or even just the fear of having an accident because of the dangerous behavior of the horse involved. People tend not to admit that they gave up their horse interests because of fear. The fact is, however, a huge percentage of those who do give up their horses are doing so, at least in part, by a fright they received.

04/29/2020: I am amazed at your work with horses in the circle enclosure. When they Join-Up with you it makes me want to cry. I love the way you explain what they are going through.

Your non-violent training thoughts and practice is very encouraging to me. I have had some success in Canada with a team of Zebu oxen and in India with Tarparka breed of bulls, pure white. I am going to have to deal with some older bulls in the US soon. I started training them for one year and then couldn’t get back into the U.S.. So now they will be 5 years older.

Do you think if I built a round pen like you use, and brought one in, he would respond with the same result as when your horses Join-Up?

Monty’s Answer: Admittedly, I have never attempted Join-Up with the the breed of cattle that you speak of. I have done Join-Up with many domestic breeds of cattle. I have along with certain breeds of pigs sheep and even goats. I suppose one of the odd breeds that makes me the proudest is the Pacific Coast Mule deer. I spent two hours with them this morning and I certainly believe there is no harm in getting close to them or in a large family group at this particular stage in my sheltering in place.

It is my recommendation that you be as careful as possible. Don’t expect miracles in a short period of time. Time and skills of observation will cause you to be a success. The lack of either one of those will tend to cause you to fail. I would be interested to have you communicate to us about how it is going and further communications.

4/22/2020: I am 78 years old and worked with horses in the 1950s and 60s. I hated the methods of training. I decided to look at YouTube and see what is going on today and found everyone is using a creation of your method. I bow before you and say “where were you when I needed you?” You changed a whole industry. It is exciting to watch you work. I love horses too.

Monty’s Answer: In my first book, The Man Who Listens to Horses, I tried very hard to tell you where I was in the 1950s and 60s and I believe I did a pretty good job of describing it. I won my first world championship in 1950, my second in 1956, my third in 1957. In the 10 years following 1957, I won eight more world championships with the last coming in 1966. So that is where I was when you were wondering why so much violence was used on horses.

At that time, I was trying to suggest to my father and other competitors that violence wasn’t the answer. I was criticized and considered weak. Later I was thrown out of the Hall of Fame along with my best horse, Johnny Tivio. It happens that my ejection from the Hall of Fame came in 1997 right after my first book was launched.

It was not possible for most of the horsemen of my era to accept the statements I made in that book about those who resorted to what I considered criminal violence. That is where I was, George, and it has taken me all of these 84 years to finally watch the world come to its senses about the fallacy of violence towards these flight animals. As I travel the world at the behest of Queen Elizabeth II, I fully realize there is a lot more work to be done. But many observers have indicated that we are well past 20 percent in our journey.

Most of my college generation would indicate that more than 20 percent is considered critical mass which means it will simply take time but the entire change is inevitable. Whips in racing leads the parade right now of regulations against violence towards horses. One might say 6,000 years leaves us with no pride about getting it changed. Whatever took us this long, when you think about it.

4/15/2020: I suppose you receive letters like this all the time being the amazing person you are but I just wanted to let you know how much of an impact you’ve on my life.

Similar to you, I’ve always loved horses. My grandad had a small holding in a little coal mining village in Wales, where again similar to you, I was riding horses before I could walk. When I was 10, I had an accident and it knocked my confidence completely. I had this love of horses and longed to that connection again but was so full of fear. Looking back, it was a blessing in disguise, as my mother gave me your book to read.

There I was a young child reading about you, your upbringing and your relationship with horses and to this day, it’s been the best book I’ve ever read and one that has had the biggest impact on my life. Not only did reading your story enhance my confidence and understanding of horses but of people too. I then went on to watch the horse whisperer film and all I could do was think that, that film was because of you. I explored Join-Up and started exploring horse behaviors. And I started riding again and met the horse that helped me too, Sonny!

You really are an inspiration to me and I want to thank you for that! Basically, it’s been a dream of mine since I was 10 to meet you and see your work in person and tell you all of this. I watch ALL your YouTube videos and TV programs and I’ve read your book another 100 times since. Finally, thank you for confirming to me that the connection I feel with horses is true. I feel lucky to have felt it. Thank you for everything! How can I be a better student still?

Monty’s Answer: Your letter makes me feel as I am still growing up and makes me want to meet you some day. Your words cause me to feel a though you should be awarded the #1 position of all that I consider to be my life’s goal. I remember so well at the age of 11 during one of the most trying times with my father. I recall a meeting with my most influential teacher in primary school and I told her that my life’s goal was to leave the world a better place for horses and for people too.

You epitomize a person that leads the world in this goal of mine. Anytime I am available I will be asking all of my assistants to invite you to receive a free ticket or if it’s possible to meet you in person. It sounds as though you consider me to be a gift to you. Please believe me when I say you are a gift to me. You represent exactly the gift that I would wish everyone in the next generation to be.

4/8/2020: After many years with horses, I’m just beginning my journey with Join-Up, my past practices have been more organic (what comes naturally) with a bit of information from here and a bit from there.

I’m bringing a stallion (14 years of age) back into work after 8 or more years and was wondering if you considered stallions any more of a challenge to get to Join-Up? He is a kind boy, cutting bred and trained by his breeder as a young horse but I have never ridden him before and would like to get him to Join-Up as part of my process.

Currently, time and finances don’t allow me to join your study program as much as I would like to. Finding myself now widowed and having to cull all but our breeding stallions and one mare I would like to get back in the saddle for myself and my late husband.

Monty’s Answer: Congratulations on all fronts. Your stallion probably has several years to enjoy working with you. Unless he is aggressive, then Join-Up should be no different from the young horses. I advise students all the time that this is their, the horses’, language. It is their procedure and it is a fact that I learned it from them. I am sorry about your loss but proud of you for choosing to explore the world of human horse partnerships.

1/1/2020: I always read other people’s questions as they are very often very interesting, and your thoughtful answers informative and useful. But every question, and every answer, seem to lead me towards one foundation question, or one underlying mystery. My own question is:

Why, how, as a child, were you able to recognize that your father was wrong, both in his treatment of horses and of you – and then choose not to be the same yourself?

The more usual scenario is that beaten children believe their parents are right and good, and feel they themselves really are to blame, eventually becoming violent parents themselves (either believing it is the correct thing to do, or finding they are not able to stop themselves). I have often wondered about this – your insight, and your physical, mental and above all emotional resistance to all the damage being inflicted. So many of us take a lifetime to come to the same outlook, if we ever manage to.

Bless you for your lifelong efforts to pass on your insight, skill and experience to benefit horses – and humans.

Monty’s Answer: It is very interesting to me to receive your question. Your thoughts are insightful and certainly profoundly true. All of my university courses made it clear that physical abuse by parents creates a chain reaction. This insures a high percentage of physically abused children will follow in the footsteps of the offending parent. Believe me, I wanted to follow in the footsteps of my father. There was a very strong pull within me to be violent. If it wasn’t for Sister Agnes Patricia, who began to influence me at the age of nine, I very likely would have followed my father’s behavior and possibly even worse.

When you pose the question “How did I recognize that his actions were unacceptable to horses” that was easy. I love horses far more than I loved myself or other human beings. It was much easier for me to recognize that his actions were wrong when he used violence on the horses. It was far more difficult for me to conclude that his actions were wrong when he was violent with me. There was a deep understanding within me that I would get back at him and the horses could not. I was far more angry about the horses than I was about myself.

Sister Agnes Patricia shall always receive the credit from me for causing me to shed my need to utilize physical violence back toward my father or other human beings. This lady, now in heaven, was clearly responsible for seeing to it that I did not use the same violence on people that my father used on the horses or me. All of my studies of behavioral sciences validate the notion that familial violence creates a chain which is very difficult to break. Sister Agnes Patricia began when I was 9 to cause me to see that using violence would only be acting with the same negativity which I detested from my father.

Not wanting to live a violent life and die a violent human, Sister Agnes Patricia and my eight years in University clearly caused me to reject those actions and break that chain. My younger brother followed the violent pattern. He has been dead for about 10 years now, filled with cancer which took his life. He was one of the most violent men one could imagine with many arrests for violent actions. I am the luckiest man in the wold and the female of our species is primarily responsible for the incredible good luck that I have had throughout my 84 years.

Sister Agnes Patricia was a Notre Dame nun teaching in a school where I was required to be tested as my education was on the road due to horse show competitions and as a child stunt person in the movies of the 1940s. Sister Agnes Patricia came into my life at the age of 9 and lived until I was 57 years old and had already met Queen Elizabeth II. These two ladies guided me into the path of good luck and certainly acted to keep me from following the path of violence. Patricia Roberts and I married when I was 21 and there is no question that these three ladies formed a pattern for which I will always be grateful.

03/25/2020: During the breaking in of my beloved mare, something went horribly wrong for her. Somehow she became a rodeo horse. She was rejected because she didn’t buck properly. Her tail was broken and she was tazered. Then when she still wouldn’t buck properly, she was given a chance to be rescued. She wouldn’t float for the person trying to rescue her so I was asked to see if I could get her onto my friend’s horse truck. She got on, reluctantly, and the whole drive home I said repeatedly, “What have I just done?"

Those first two months, she saw numbers of horses go through the crush to be butchered. Its left its scars. She was wild when she came to us. You couldn’t touch her, couldn’t get close. She would stand in the center of the round pen and pivot on the spot keeping herself as far from you as she could. She has come so far; leads, ties, swims. Is there is anything I can do to make life, and the yard, not so scary? It’s something like PTSD. She has her flashbacks and just becomes terrified, freezing. You just wait for all hell to break loose. It hasn’t yet, but she gets that look in her eye like she isn’t there. She quivers and you can’t do anything because it is like you are no longer there. She’s absent. I have seen that look in World War II veterans.

I can’t get her to walk near the yards or take another step forward, even backwards, or lunging. She just stares and it’s like a black hole opens in her mind. It’s sad to see. I can turn her around on the spot and when she comes back to me, she won’t dare get closer once she goes into this black hole. We walk away, walk along the road on the opposite side, etc. but those yards and gates.

I would like to add she’s a pet. I can’t ride very well. I am not meant to ride at all, I just want to know what else I can do to help. I am happy where she is at as far as a pet goes, but I do feel for her. Is there something you can do for a horse with that kind of trauma? Have you seen PTSD in a horse before?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your story about the beloved mare in your life. Remember that your mare does not have PTSD. There is no D – she was not born with these problems and disorders tend to be circumstances which refuse to heal. Your precious mare has been injured, probably both physically and mentally. Injuries heal and disorders tend not to heal. The question here is how can we heal this injury. My answer is that I hear “Join-Up” screaming out at me with every sentence you have written. Study my Join-Up techniques. There are over 600 lessons on my Online University. They are short and to the point. Study them and follow their suggestions.

Your precious mare is precious to you and I promise you will gain as much in your coming together with her in a partnership as she will gain receiving your actions in a partnership. In the meantime, you will have fun. You will learn so much and she will enjoy the journey maybe even more than you do. You don’t have to ride her in an attempt to solve her problems. You can be there for her to work when she is wrong and relax and be appreciated when she is right. I sit here today wishing I could be there with you to watch this mare shed her demons. I can hear her asking you to please understand the problems and cause me to shed them.

Let us know how it goes with your precious mare because if you use my bookFrom My Hands to Yours and couple that with the Online University, I believe you will be amazed at what a friendship you can create when you and your mare come together in a partner ship which I believe is certain to happen if you use my concepts and all of my non-violent techniques. If you have before and after videos, send them through so that we can rejoice with you and see the difference from where she was and how she has become. We wish you well.

03/18/2020: My pony will move his head in a full clockwise circle over and over again. He will do it if he’s at the gate and ready to leave the arena if I allow him to. Last week we put him out in the field alone. He is boarded at a barn and I’m not allowed to take any other horses out with him. I’m guessing that he does this when he is stressed or bored because he is fine when I work with him and fine when the barn owner puts other horses out with him. My question is, should I try to stop it or just accept it as part of his personality?

Monty’s Answer: If this is something he fails to exhibit when riding or handling him, then lets consider it his property and accept the fact that all individuals are just that. Every human has some trait we can label a fingerprint. It’s theirs and probably should remain theirs without interference if it hurts no other individual.

03/11/2020: I honor your answer, your deep respect for Her Majesty the Queen (and The Queen Mother) and your deep understanding of horses and the mistakes humans make that can cause tragic accidents with horses through their LACK of understanding. [Refer to the January 29, 2020 Ask Monty edition]

In my family, we have always loved the Royal Family. We are related through my English branch of the family to Mrs. Campbell-Preston, who was Lady in Waiting to The Queen Mother. The story of The Queen Mother’s inviting you to England that first time and how moved she was to witness your Join-Up® work is a precious one I carry in my heart. Queen Elizabeth’s love of horses is such an integral part of who she is, in particular her passion for horse breeding, as you know.

I personally would like to thank you for all you have given to deepen everyone’s understanding of Equus.

With great respect and love,
Martha Magee

Monty’s Answer:

Dear Martha,

Thank you very much for your supportive communication regarding my answer. We must remember that Queen Elizabeth is the most influential world leader in all of our history, both for animals and for humans. The Queen’s love of horses has been, and will be for a long time in the future, a positive factor in equine welfare.

03/04/2020: Looking for ideas on how to help a horse that is on stall rest and can only be hand walked post surgery. He gets so, quite understandably, full of energy that he gets explosive, which makes going for a quiet hand walk challenging to say the least and I don’t want him to injure himself or me! How can I help him calm is mind and body?

Monty’s Answer: This is a situation met by many owners. Follow the advice of your veterinarian on substances you might use to help quieten him to an extent that he is safe for you to lead. There is never an easy answer, but a conversation with your vet might suggest that a tranquilizer is necessary. You might think that this may be harmful, but I promise that a horse’s hoof landing on your head is far more harmful.

A good area with secure fencing and good footing is very important. Walking in an straight line back and forth is generally one solution. Often there is a hallway or breezeway with reasonable footing or footing that can be made reasonable, and then walking where two walls discourage bad behavior is a possibility. Schooling with the Dually Halter is an option if the need isn’t already a factor. Studying my methods will find the use of the Dually Halter to be a safety measure practically unsurpassed.

02/26/2020: Hi there, I have a problem with a jumper. After his jump he just goes absolutely mad, bucks, rears and just freaks out. Now I’m an experienced trainer and unfortunately I can not find the solution. He has been checked by the veterinarian and all is good. Please, I will appreciate the help. Just to let you know, I do train using [the language] Equus.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. I am pleased to hear that apparently you have been using my techniques with your horses. This is a problem that I see globally horses tend to express energy after effort jumping tends to bring this out more than most activities, the best results I have had have come through an effort to calm this moment, in time, by doing a lot of low level training. By that I mean trotting and cantering over polls on the ground, or poles set at two feet make it easy for the horse.

When you begin to address this issue, please go through and study a good amount of lessons on causing the horse to learn to stand still. I believe you will find several lessons on the art of causing a horse to stand still on my Online University The main effort is to allow the horse to make a mistake and move, but only two or three steps and then back up with a firm request from the Dually Halter. This will be effective for you when your on the ground simply teaching the horse to stand still.

When you are in the saddle, learn to keep your hands down and relax. Expect your horse to stand still, do not demand for him to stand still. Let him move two or three steps then make him back up to the original position. Please let me know if this has been helpful to you, as I have had tremendous success with horses that have this remedial behavior.

02/19/2020: Monty, my mare typically kicks when I release her for Join-Up which does not seem too “safe” of an environment. Any advice on how to make her get rid of this habit?
I do the orientation and then release at 2 o’clock but initially she would not leave. Then when I send her off, she does that but for a while she kicks and she speeds a lot, even cutting through the circle, then she changes direction at her own convenience as obviously I try to keep a bit of distance and she seems to be unpredictable. She is clearly a dominant type of mare and I started working with a Dually halter one month ago which seemed to pay off significantly in terms of her respecting my space, standing still etc but Join-Up is not really working (or only partially working for now, she does not seem very interested for the first 10 to 15 minutes). Should she be long-lined before trying Join-Up as a rule?

Monty’s Answer: The behavior described is seen seldom, but is a concern. I have been successful overcoming this situation by carrying plastic bags on a stick with me. Using the plastic bags to send her away will generally stop down any kicking.

The un-asked for turning is probably because you are not placing your body slightly behind your mare’s forward motion. Use the plastic bags to send her in the same direction, for an appropriate number of revolutions, the flight distance of a horse.

At some point before I decide to attempt Join-Up, I typically toss the plastic bags toward the gate and achieve Join-Up from opposite the gate of the round pen. This is outlined in my textbook From My Hands to Yours and there are many examples on my Online University.

02/12/2020: In Ireland at the moment there is, as you probably know from Caitriona, Patrick, Claire and Caroline, a growing interest in horsemanship that rejects violent training methods. Catriona has been of immense help to me from a distance, and I did a course with Caroline Jennings a few years back (and with Kelly, many moons ago).

But, there is a growing group that seem to say that any method that is not their method, which they term “positive reinforcement” is wrong. Their method is clicker training, to the best of my knowledge.

I must admit, the results look great, and I support any good non-violent training method. Indeed, I have a small, once abused, pony, that could probably do well with this training. I’m sending you a link to this website, and while I think there are a lot of good practice in what Philippa Christie says, I really object to the inference that any other method is wrong. The method involves treats – non-stop treats.

As a Montessori trained teacher, this kind of motivation goes against the grain as the ideal would be that the student would respond from an intrinsic desire to do the right thing, and not for a treat. I feel that followers of the clicker method would work towards non-treat motivation, I don’t know enough about it at the moment to say if this is the case or not. The Irish exponents of this first came to my attention when they posted the study that “cast doubt” on natural horsemanship and Monty’s methods in particular, and negative comments regarding natural horsemanship escalated.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your recent communication, I have communicated with the public many times on this subject. It seems however that one can always improve one’s explanation for any given training method. Let me try to do that for you in the next few paragraphs.

First let me say that horses are flight animals. They never stalk, kill or devour any other species which means that it is difficult to make a case for food being a reward. No blade of grass has ever run from a horse. They don’t need to stalk it and they will have difficulty considering it a reward. Treats are, in my opinion, the best method in the world to train a horse to do one certain behavior, it is the best method of training a horse to bite their handler. Have a look at the clicker trained horses fed treats and you will witness an enormous group of equine individuals who consistently bite their handlers.

It is also true that most horses who bite are also head shy. This makes sense because the human who is bitten will generally slap the nose of the biting horse. It is my opinion that marker training can be very effective. I would explain that the marker, not the treat, indicates the behavior witnessed is desirable. For the flight animal, it’s my position that food is a bad reward. I have my own set of markers and reinforcers but I would rather not begin to describe them because I believe that they are actions that might vary greatly from trainer to trainer. These markers and reinforcers are actions of mine which clearly communicate acceptance of the action.

It is my position that these markers are extremely important but what they are is far less important. Markers should never be violent, I mark bad behavior with non-violent actions which must be completed within 3 seconds of the behavior expressed. In behavioral science this method is PICNIC. PICNIC is an acronym for positive instant consequences and negative instant consequences and the definitive word is instant. The NIC can never be violent and the PIC can not be food, in my world. My students have created many of their own PICNIC actions and I enjoy studying their various mindsets.

My studies in behavioral sciences clearly define for me, that food for the flight animal, particularly the grazer, is not a positive action. Any action that results in weakening a behavior falls squarely into the area of consequences. A positive (+) consequence is when we add an action that results in lessening a behavior. A Negative (-) consequence is when we take something away that results in lessening a behavior.

Sincerely, I could write a full book of my 80 years of discovery regarding the training of horses which follow the scientific patterns that I was taught in four different Universities. Please don’t feel that I believe I have all the answers. Each one of us is still working at getting our training right for the horse.

02/05/2020: Hi Monty, I have a ex racehorse mare that I struggle to get in from the field. She’s good to go into the field and is happy while out there. But when I try get her in from the field she’ll plant her feet and if I do manage to get her to move she’ll continuously canter circles round me, she has run me over before, until we’re back to the yard. Also, if other horses get too close to her on either side she bolts and runs in blind panic and has run through and into fences on multiple occasions. Any advice you could give me would be greatly appreciated.

Monty’s Answer: If you don’t have Dually Halter, then you need one. I will explain more about the equipment in the next paragraph. First, you need your own physiology to be right using diaphragmatic breathing. If your adrenaline is up, your horse’s will likely rise as well. Breathing and relaxing will create a calmer environment for you and the horse.

Second, appropriate equipment is essential to help build your confidence. Use a longer lead than most people use. I use a 30-foot line, but if your hands are smaller, a 17-foot line is sufficient for training. With this, if she is inclined to bolt you have more line in your hand to bring her around with. To train, find a time when you can focus on her, with no deadlines. Use an area with good footing, appropriate for safe training. I suggest you school your mare to stand still, walk when you walk, stop when you stop, and back up when you back up.

These skills will transfer to more challenging areas. Once you have your mare living to the rules you have trained for and once you get this behavior modified, go to the field and repeat the process. It may not be easy, but I know it will work.

01/29/2020: Following on the original question from Eve about starting horses and vulnerable riders, here is Part 3 of Eve’s query: As an example, I know she is an exceedingly capable horsewoman but, as a responsible trainer, how do you know when a horse is ready to carry someone as precious as The Queen?

Monty’s Answer: This is probably the most interesting segment that has come through with this question. Ask any parent if they consider their children to be as precious as Queen Elizabeth II. Ask almost all husbands if their wife is as precious as Her Majesty. The same could apply to closest friends. Human life is precious. The horses I consider so precious to me are constantly being blamed for hospitalizing or burying many human beings. If we don’t take every measure possible to ensure the safety of riders, then we are adding to the reputation that horses have in the emergency rooms of the world.

It is my opinion that as much as 90% of the so-called accidents caused by horses were in fact caused by humans. These accidents are generally the fault of a human who thought something was okay when it was clearly an act of carelessness. It is scary that any human being on this earth could ask the question that has come through but one must not blame the questioner – the blame goes to the horsemen of the world who have failed to fully educate people intending to deal with horses in a manner sufficient to enlighten them to the dangers of careless activities. It is my hope that I have helped over 400,000 who read my Facebook page and the 90,000 people who read the questions and answers on this newsletter. We now have more than 800 searchable Q&As free to access on my website, representing over 16 years of diligently posting them, here.

If only the world knew the efforts made to be sure that the precious Queen Elizabeth is safe while riding, this question probably would never had been asked. I happen to know first-hand how incredibly diligent those tasked with this responsibility are. We are always hoping and working to increase safety globally. Never in the history of the world has there been more access to good information regarding the safety of horse and rider. My family is committed to continuing this study and dissemination of good horsemanship well into the future. Many of you are students of my Monty Roberts University We also have a podcast with over 150 episodes called Horsemanship Radio I am honored to share what my eight decades of experience with horses has taught me, and continues to teach me. Thank you for being great students of horsemanship.

1/22/2020: Common sense tells us that there are certain breeds/temperaments that would be better suited to these [vulnerable] riders, even having taken this into consideration, are there any extra measures you like to put in place when starting horses when you know your riders will be little more delicate or vulnerable?

Monty’s Answer: Believe me, to read your words once more with even the slightest assumption that I would agree with your early comments in this segment, the first comment has to do with breeds. While it’s true that a final reading of the history of some breeds will prove to be less apt to act out dangerously with the first rider, every horseman should assume that every horse, no matter the breed is apt to act out dangerously with the first rider. All of Equus is related, and all of Equus has experienced 50 million years of acquiring their natural tendencies. It is scary that any one who has dealt with horses would place the humans described in the early riding of any breed of horse.

Please understand that I haven’t taken this into consideration because, in my opinion, that would be the definition of insanity. There are hundreds of extra measures that I use with every horse I put a first rider on. For me, sincerely, it would be a book. Join-Up would be the first chapter. The second chapter might describe the dozens of equipment objects which I use on every horse I start. Then there might be a chapter on the various ways to use that equipment. This would likely include the horses’ response to the equipment in question.

There would likely be a chapter on the spacial requirements for starting a horse. The footing, the fence, the size and many other elements which would speak to both safety and efficiency. There would be a chapter on the number of times the horse would be considered in the starting mode and not yet ready for even a slightly inexperienced or health hampered rider. It is my opinion that you can now see that this question would require as many as two or three books in order to promote the safety that I am referring to.

1/15/2020: Thinking specifically about the safety of riders who are more vulnerable such as those with physiological injuries (e.g. like myself, having previously had spinal surgery); more mature riders and young children in the context of starting horses.

Monty’s Answer: We will now move on to segments we will name Preparation. This, the second segment, stands my hair on end and causes my skin to crawl. No one, even slightly meeting the description you have outlined here should ever be the first rider for any horse no matter the preparation or the apparent attitude of the horse.

To read your words about your own physical vulnerabilities as though you would consider being the first rider on the horse is absolutely bone chilling. Under no circumstance could I ever allow anyone even slightly fitting the descriptions you have outlined here would be asked by me to be a first, second, third or even fourth rider. Let’s end this segment with those words etched indelibly.

1/8/2020: Some horses will instinctively buck during the starting process, what would you consider to be the safest or best way to ensure from the outset that this is not a ‘go to’ option when horses encounter fear or excitement?

Thinking specifically about the safety of riders who are more vulnerable such as those with physiological injuries (e.g. like myself, having previously had spinal surgery); more mature riders and young children.

Common sense tell us that there are certain breeds/ temperaments that would be better suited to these riders, even having taken this into consideration, are there any extra measures you like to put in place when starting horses when you know your riders will be little more delicate or vulnerable?

As an example, I know she is an exceedingly capable horsewoman but, as a responsible trainer, how do you know when a horse is ready to carry someone as precious as The Queen?

Monty’s Answer: This is one of the most complicated questions that has ever come through to me. Many of my students have heard me say very often that safety should be a primary issue of every procedure we endeavor with horses. I often say one should take a red marker pen and make a sign saying safety first that you put up in your stable and then attempt to always live by it.

The question, based upon choosing a rider for that first experience the horse has with a human on its back, is probably the quintessential heart and soul of the question you’ve posed. Your entire question has several aspects within it. I have chosen to answer this one segment at a time. Any student of the Monty Roberts Online University should mark this one down so as to follow it, answer after answer, segment after segment.

Segment One:
The first sentence is definitely the wrong way to consider this issue. One should always accept the premise that every horse has the tendency to instinctually buck when taking its first rider. Yes, I know, you’ve seen a lot of horses that didn’t buck with their first rider. But believe me when I tell you that all horses have DNA from 50 million years of surviving because they have a tendency to eject from their backs any living creature that ends up in that position. One cannot blame the horse for this. It is, in fact, the primary reason that they have survived for the 50 million years.

Next week we will move on to segments I will name “Preparation.”

1/1/2020: Why does my horse refuse a jump?

Monty’s Answer: Probably, you have overmatched him at some point. Get the fences lower, let him have fun and rebuild his confidence. Elevate the fences gradually, attempting to discover his maximum capability. Horses don’t simply refuse a jump for no reason. If I ask you if he has ever refused a cavalletti, I believe your response would be ‘No’. If that’s the case, then a simple answer is that the fence was too high.

Obviously, that simple answer may not be the whole story. It could be that the fence was scary, and he had never seen it before. It’s possible that the ground was too slippery or the going too deep. There are many reasons why a horse may refuse a jump. With that in mind, however, one should realize that horses are generous animals and willing workers. If the environment is set up properly, they love to jump. It is a natural activity with them.

My statement that the horse was probably overmatched is a well-founded general explanation for a horse stopping at a fence. To qualify ourselves as good horsepeople, we should take a hard look at all of the factors involved, come to a conclusion and act in the best interest of the horse to solve his problem. Lowering the fence will be one of the answers in a high percentage of cases involving refusal.

When we are acting responsibly with our horse, we will work to set up a scenario in which he feels good about successfully jumping a fence, and then reward him appropriately. One of the most effective rewards I have used is to have the fence high enough for the horse to feel achievement in jumping it, while still low enough for him to accept. If the rider dismounts as soon as the horse has negotiated the fence, leads him around and allows him to feel pleased with himself in having accomplished his feat, that horse will be a more willing partner.

If you are clever about this, you can arrange your training program so that the schooling session for any given day is conducted over fences that are educational but not overly taxing. Once you have accomplished this, then you can ask the horse to tackle a fence that is a bit of a challenge, ensuring that he approaches it going in his favorite direction; you can then accomplish the jump, dismount and finish the day’s session on a positive note.

You can play with this scenario until you reach what is generally fairly obvious as the horse’s physical limit. Through this method, you can optimize the performance of your horse. However, a good horseperson will observe the horse’s responses carefully and be very careful about increasing the demand.


12/19/2019: Why do you do your Join-Up demonstrations using an English saddle and never a Western? Is that why lots of cowboys think Join-Up is for dressage queens?

Monty’s Answer:

There are many reasons why the saddle that I choose to use for my demonstrations has evolved to its present form. It is not an English saddle. It is not a military saddle. It is not a Western saddle. It is a modified exercise saddle of the kind used on most Thoroughbred racehorses for morning workouts.
The saddle I have chosen has practically no tree at all. As you might imagine, as I travel the world doing my demonstrations, I deal with horses of all sizes and shapes. If I had a full tree in a saddle, it would be virtually impossible to cause it to fit the wide array of horses that I work with.

I buy these exercise saddles from a company that provides them for the racing industry. Once the saddle is in my possession, I then take it to one of the saddlers who have been trained to make the modifications I have designed. The first thing they do is to replace the billet straps (those straps that the girth connects to on each side of the saddle). They attach billets about three times the length of the original ones. This allows me to use a very short girth, which will fit a tiny horse or a pony when it’s taken up to the top on both sides. If the girth is attached to the longest notches, then it will fit even a big draught horse.

I use a soft girth with elastic on the offside connection. While the saddler is replacing the billets, he builds into the front of the saddle a special handhold similar to the one you might see on a bareback bronc rigging. This allows my riders to remain in the saddle even through sessions of bucking.

D-rings are attached in three strategic locations. One is at the extreme rear portion of the saddle. Two more are placed in the front of the saddle about 8 inches or so from the pommel. The rear one is part of the attachment for the mannequin rider that I use for horses that want to buck. The two in front will allow me to attach a breast collar so that the saddle can’t slide back.

It is true that my riders can feel the horse and use leg aids that are more difficult to achieve with a Western saddle, but the primary reason why I use this type of saddle is that it is light in weight. If I traveled the world with a Western saddle, the airlines would be levying thousands of dollars of overweight charges. The inconvenience of the size would also be a factor. And, as I have already mentioned, fitting all the horses I deal with would be virtually impossible.

To answer the question in full, please let me assure you that the dressage people of the world ask me why I don’t use a dressage saddle, while the Western people inquire why I don’t have my riders use that sort of equipment. It has nothing to do with dressage, Western or English. It is a saddle that has been especially adapted to dealing with horses being started or remedial horses across the spectrum of size, breed and discipline.

12/18/2019: My horse has difficulty taking the bit. It was recommended by someone that I use a bitless bridle for her, but I don’t know how to use one and no one will help me. They will only help with a bit. My horse has never bitten, reared, bucked or been difficult in any way. She just gets very scared of the bit.

Monty’s Answer: I sympathize with the problem you are having. Horses often come to me in the same condition you have outlined in your question. I will never understand how professional horsemen can feel that violence and brutality can solve the condition you have described. This behavior is one of the few where I recommend a food substance.

I place honey first on a stick and ask the horse to take the stick in the mouth, licking the honey off. I then put honey on a bit with no bridle and repeat the process. Before long, the horse will follow me around and attempt to put the bit on himself. I have had good outcomes from this process.

Often horses become fearful when they hear the sound of metallic bits. In such cases Mylar or Happy Mouth bits are quite effective. These are made from a plastic-type substance that will take the honey quite well. The honey taste will remain on the soft mouthpiece, and you can put it on and take it off many times with your horse still experiencing the taste of the honey.

Note that it is quite possible to work without a bridle on the bit. It is easiest to work with the bit as a solo object, without reins either. Get in a mood to have fun with this. I recommend that you work with your horse in a box stall (loose box). If you put the horse’s tail in a safe corner, then it is easier to approach the muzzle area. Don’t be forceful with the honey-coated stick; start by putting it in the corner of the mouth and on to the tongue. Continue this work until you can pass it through the front teeth and on to the tongue so that the horse tastes the honey.

Experience is always valuable in these areas. I would like you to realize that with my decades of work with horses I can take the most difficult sort and cause him to reach out consciously to take the bit in two or three sessions of forty-five minutes to one hour. When you can achieve this level of acceptance from your horse, it is fun. When it is fun, it happens faster and more effectively.

Wherever a bitless bridle can be advantageous to the horse owner, I recommend using the Dually halter. It can serve as a normal halter and is invaluable for educating the horse. It comes complete with its own DVD to help you in learning to use it.

12/11/2019: You work mostly on horse problems such as biting, kicking or refusing to go into the trailer. Do you think your methods could make top horses even more successful, get dressage horses more concentrated in the arena or make show jumpers show more spirit in the course? Have you ever been successful in working with top sport dressage or show jumping horses?

Monty’s Answer: When you create a partnership with your horse, causing the horse to do his work because he wants to and not because he is forced to, then you improve the performance of that horse no matter what the discipline is. I have worked with dressage horses for both Camilla du Pont and Charlotte Bredahl. Charlotte, who was an Olympic bronze medal winner in Barcelona, uses my methods and has horses in training with me.

At one time, my partner Jeff Lovinger and I owned a wonderful Thoroughbred who didn’t make it to the racetrack, so we put him in a hunter/jumper program on my farm. Now deceased, Napur became one of the world’s best show jumpers for several years and was shown by Hap Hansen and Will Simpson in both the United States and Europe.

Rough Frolic led the United States for several years as a hunter and was one of the most successful in that division. It happens that Rough Frolic retired early from racing and went on to be what is known as a strip hunter in the United States. These are judged on conformation as well as performance.

These are not the only two top competition jumpers that I worked with, but they are the most noteworthy. However, please do not think that any equestrian discipline is unique. Where horses are concerned, the similarities far outweigh the differences, regardless of the breed, the size or the activity. A horse is a horse, and the needs of these animals are not limited to particular disciplines.

I have ridden eight World Champions in the show ring. While all these were in the Western division, I also showed many hunters and jumpers and won one national championship in the saddle, which involved hunters, jumpers and Western horses. I can state categorically that the general needs of the horses in each of these disciplines are quite similar. To achieve high performance from the cutting horse, reining horse, hunter or jumper, certain elements of cooperation must be accomplished. It matters not what the discipline is.

Probably the most important horses of the latter half of my career have been on the racetracks of the world, and I can tell you beyond a shadow of a doubt the same elements are important there as in the above-mentioned disciplines. I have been fortunate to work with over four hundred international stakes winners in racing competition. I had ‘Horse of the World’ two separate years. Those individuals needed the concepts I have discovered as much as any of my cutting horses or reined cow horses did.

12/4/2019: How can we learn to listen to horses? Can anyone learn the horses’ language or does it require a special talent?

Monty’s Answer:

For the past 30 years I have set out to show the world how my concepts have improved the lives of horses. It has not been easy. The books I’ve written have helped and my Monty Roberts University online has exposed my concepts globally. There are massively more ways to learn today than there ever has been in the 6000 years since we domesticated the first horses. It does not require a special talent, only a desire to learn.

An email was delivered to me recently from a woman who had attended one of my demos in the 1990s. She wrote “My mom sent me these scrapbook pages that she did, and I thought Monty might enjoy seeing them. She and I were at that demonstration and it really changed how we handled horses. I remember it was quite a scandal in the horse community there at the time, like he was a witch doctor or something. I’m really glad those times have changed!”

“I remember, I started my first colt shortly after going to that demonstration. I think that was the nicest thing they could say in rural Nevada at that time. “Gently” breaking! I have another horse that I rescued from a typical cowboy that hobbled and blindfolded him as a 3 year old in a pen full of cattle. It took lot of Join-Ups to get his trust back, but he is 25 years old now, and he’s been my best bud, and an awesome jumper, for all those years. Thanks for all that you do for the horses and for the veterans!” Cass H.

11/12/2019: My horse refuses to accept a turnout rug. I have been kicked several times and my hands have been burned because the horse bolts away from me as I attempt to put the rug over the body. He has pulled back and broken the tie several times. Please help me!

Monty’s Answer: This problem exists worldwide. I should be clear that I recommend one never place the first rug or blanket on a horse that is tied up. It is also true that one should never tie up a horse for rugging if there is any anticipation of trouble at all. If one discovers a fear of the rug, then there should be no attempt to rug up until there is a certainty that all fear is alleviated.

Carry out all of the procedures that I recommend for the spooky horse, including Join-Up, training to the Dually halter, plastic bags on a stick and even a large tarpaulin. Once you are proficient in applying my concepts regarding spooky horses, then I advise you to repeat these processes until it is possible to cover the horse in a plastic tarpaulin without evoking spooky behavior. Anyone reasonably familiar with proper handling of horses can get it done in two or three half-hour sessions.

The Dually halter should be used to educate the horse to cooperate with the halter rather than resist it. Plastic bags should be presented to the horse so that he learns to relax, which causes the bag to go away. This should be repeated until several plastic shopping bags fixed to the end of a light bamboo cane can be rapidly moved towards the horse, stroking his body and legs and even up between the hind legs.

When the subject horse will allow the plastic bags to fly all about him and touch him over his entire anatomy, then one is ready to move on to the plastic tarpaulin. It can be rubbed over the horse at first, and even spread out on the ground to walk over. The Dually halter will greatly assist with cooperation during this process. At that point, one can begin to place the tarpaulin over the horse, first rolled up to reduce the stimulus and eventually wide open and tossed over the horse, the same as one would do with a rug.

11/20/2019: Do you recommend martingales, draw reins, tie-downs or chambons?

Monty’s Answer: I would like you to think about this answer­ carefully. I am being asked here for an opinion on equipment that is fully extrinsic. I believe that a horse properly trained by my methods virtually never needs one of these. If I were asked if I have ever found them to be helpful, I would have to answer honestly that at one time or another, I have might have found all of them to be helpful.

It is difficult ever to say never but the need for extrinsic equipment, that is equipment which forces the horse to do it, should be used very sparingly. If you get your methods right, you almost never have to have it.

11/13/2019: What do you do with a horse that repeatedly runs to the gate?

Monty’s Answer: You need to cause your horse to be uncomfortable when he is near the gate and completely comfortable when he is away from it. You can accomplish this by several means; however, I recommend cantering in small circles while near the gate. Migrate away from the gate, stop your horse, rub him and let him relax. Begin to ride again, and if he barges towards the gate, just smile and repeat the process.

You should be aware of the fact that horses that tend to run to the gate are horses that have been ridden out of the gate. As soon as a horse shows any tendency to display this undesirable behavior, it is a good idea to refrain from riding out of the gate from that point onward. You should do your work in the training session, dismount in the center of the enclosure and lead the horse out.

Should the horse in question continue to run to the gate, I would suggest schooling him to back out of the gate. Follow the pattern of dismounting in the center of the work area, lead the horse in several directions, ending up at the gate, then turn the horse away from the gate and back him through the opening. I have seen this process work very well in many instances.

In the rare case where the horse continues to cause problems with this behavioral pattern even though one has followed the recommendations above, then I strongly recommend seeking other exits from the enclosure. Confuse the horse by using many gates if possible, exiting each of them under the guidelines described above. You might say, “There’s only one gate,” to which my response would be, “Think about making another one.”

11/6/2019: Do you still go to England to visit and work with the Queen’s horses?

Monty’s Answer: Yes, in fact, England is on my current schedule for two months of every year. While I tour the country to do demonstrations, each visit will include at least one stop involving Her Majesty and the horses of the royal family. So far I have made something close to thirty-five trips involving the Queen and the Queen’s horses.

However, these are directed more at the people involved in training horses for the Royal Family than for the horses themselves. Her Majesty continues to be vitally interested in my getting my message to as many horsepeople as possible, and certainly this includes those who train and care for the royal stables.

Her Majesty’s interests include an incredibly wide range of horses and disciplines. There are those horses that are kept for personal rides virtually daily, as well as those that race. The native ponies of Scotland have become very popular with the Royal Family, and many of these ponies have been seen winning championships at major English horse shows for decades now.


10/30/2019: You work mostly on horse problems such as biting, kicking or refusing to go into the trailer. Do you think your methods could make top horses even more successful, get dressage horses more concentrated in the arena or make show jumpers show more spirit in the course? Have you ever been successful in working with top sport dressage or show jumping horses?

Monty’s Answer: When you create a partnership with your horse, causing the horse to do his work because he wants to and not because he is forced to, then you improve the performance of that horse no matter what the discipline is. I have worked with dressage horses for both Camilla du Pont and Charlotte Bredahl. Charlotte, who was an Olympic bronze medal winner in Barcelona, used my methods and has a horse in training with me at the moment.
At one time, my partner Jeff Lovinger and I owned a wonderful Thoroughbred who didn’t make it to the racetrack, so we put him in a hunter/jumper program on my farm. Napur became one of the world’s best show jumpers for several years and was shown by Hap Hansen and Will Simpson in both the United States and Europe.

Another Thoroughbred I worked with, Rough Frolic, led the United States for several years as a hunter and was one of the most successful in that division. It happens that Rough Frolic retired early from racing and went on to be what is known as a strip hunter in the United States. These horses are judged on conformation as well as performance.
These are not the only top competition jumpers that I worked with, but they are the most noteworthy. However, please do not think that any equestrian discipline is unique. Where horses are concerned, the similarities far outweigh the differences, regardless of the breed, the size or the activity. A horse is a horse, and the needs of these animals are not limited to particular disciplines.

I have ridden eight World Champions in the show ring. While all these were in the Western division, I also showed many hunters and jumpers and won one national championship in the saddle, which involved hunters, jumpers and Western horses. I can state categorically that the general needs of the horses in each of these disciplines are quite similar.

To achieve high performance from the cutting horse, reining horse, hunter or jumper, certain elements of cooperation must be accomplished. It matters not what the discipline is. Probably the most important horses of the latter half of my career have been on the racetracks of the world, and I can tell you beyond a shadow of a doubt the same elements are important there as in the above-mentioned disciplines.

I have been fortunate to work with over four hundred international stakes winners in racing competition. I had ‘Horse of the World’ two separate years. Those individuals needed the concepts I have discovered as much as any of my cutting horses or reined cow horses did.

10/23/2019: You’ve created special programs for veterans, abused children, people with Post Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD). What is it about the impact of horses on these people?

Monty’s Answer: Those familiar with my thoughts on healing should know that I don’t believe there should be a D in PTSD. The D in PTSD should have been an I and stand for Injury. Going to war and coming home with extreme trauma is an injury and not a disorder. Injuries heal and disorders tend not to. This helps veterans avoid becoming a victim of a system that does not train them to re-enter civilian life. Instead, the horses help participants grow to trust again.

Trust is the essential ingredient in horses helping humans. When humans can get their anatomy to convince a horse to trust them, then the horses realize that trust is possible. Horses are flight animals and to gain their trust, we must get our physiology right. Emotional control, breathing and communication are part of the skill sets that participants gain from the horses in order to achieve Join-Up® in our Horse Sense & Healing program.

We accept veterans and first responders plus their supporters. Since 2010, we have been amazed at the healing and the ripple effect through families that horses have had. Read more about the program here, and consider supporting the program through the non-profit. The horses and our military and first responders deserve it.

10/16/2019: You have a great love and a very special attention for mustangs and you’ve trained a lot of wild mustangs. Are mustangs different from domestic horses? Why are they so special?

Monty’s Answer: One should remember that mustangs are feral and not just wild horses. These horses were wild in Africa before domestication in Spain and Portugal. They were brought across a narrow strip of water to work the cattle in that part of the world. The Spanish explorers brought them to the Western United States to work the cattle for the leather they produced. They are intelligent, athletic and, if properly treated, can love their work.

10/09/2019: You have worked a lot with race horses, during all these years has anything changed for the better in the race industry, in your opinion? Is the training system of race horses more ‘horse friendly’ in the US? And in Europe now?

Monty’s Answer: It’s true I have worked in the racing industry most of my life. It has changed for the better. In my opinion the U.S. lags behind the rest of the world in making the needed changes. Scandinavia probably leads the world and the UK and Europe are still well ahead of the curve where the U.S. is concerned.

10/02/2019: About your methods of training horses, you question some traditional methods, for e.g. the use of the whip, but still it’s the main item in horse shops. You’ve been a part of a horse market in the world for long, how is it changing?

Monty’s Answer: It’s changing, but certainly not enough to suit me. I am 84 and I would like it to speed up a lot. The production of pain administered by a human being to a flight animal is one of the least intelligent actions the human race has ever utilized. Horses seek a safe place. When we cause them pain, the flight animal sees it as an unsafe place. The word ‘break’ comes clearly into this picture because if you produce enough pain, you can cause the flight animal to give up, to be broken, to follow instructions not because they want to but because they are afraid not to. This to me is a pathetic action caused by people who simply haven’t thought this process through.

09/25/2019: How can a horse owner get helped with a problem, can they write to you?

Monty’s Answer: I answer a lot of questions throughout the week, whether on tour in person, by email through this newsletter, in the classroom facilitating a course or through my Online University where there are approximately 800 archived Questions and my Answers and over 575 video lessons on different situations involving horses, with notes and challenges. It is probably far more educational than an email or a telephone call can ever be. The courses in my school and the 70+ instructors holding courses can also add an educational component to produce better trained horses.

We are here for the horse owner who has a challenge, and I appreciate people who are willing to reach out and learn. In my opinion, there is no such thing as teaching, there is only learning. I believe it is my obligation to create an environment in which the student can learn, whether human or horse.

09/18/2019: How can we learn to listen to horses? Can anyone learn the horses’ language or does it require a special talent?

Monty’s Answer: For the past 30 years, I have set out to show the world how my concepts have improved the lives of horses. It has not been easy. The books I’ve written have helped, and my Monty Roberts University online has exposed my concepts globally. There are massively more ways to learn today than there ever has been in the 6000 years since we domesticated the first horses. It does not require a special talent, only a desire to learn.

An email was delivered to me recently from a woman who had attended one of my demos in the 1990s. She wrote “My mom sent me these scrapbook pages that she did, and I thought Monty might enjoy seeing them. She and I were at that demonstration and it really changed how we handled horses. I remember it was quite a scandal in the horse community there at the time, like he was a witch doctor or something. I’m really glad those times have changed!”

“I remember, I started my first colt shortly after going to that demonstration. I think that was the nicest thing they could say in rural Nevada at that time. “Gently” breaking! I have another horse that I rescued from a typical cowboy that hobbled and blindfolded him as a 3 year old in a pen full of cattle. It took lot of Join-Ups to get his trust back, but he is 25 years old now, and he’s been my best bud, and an awesome jumper, for all those years. Thanks for all that you do for the horses and for the veterans!” Cass H.

09/11/2019: How did you discover and define Equus – the horses’ language?

Monty’s Answer: It is fair for me to say that mustangs, the wild horses, out in the wilderness gave me the fundamental basis by which I began to understand their communication. I first learned to listen to horses while observing wild mustangs in Nevada at the age of thirteen. Sent there to round up horses for the Salinas Rodeo Association’s Wild Horse Race, I spent hours silently watching the feral horses interact with each other.

I soon realized horses use a discernible and predictable body language to communicate, to set boundaries, show fear and express annoyance, relaxation or affection. In a moment that would change my life, I understood that utilizing this silent body language would allow training to commence in a much more effective and humane manner, encouraging true partnership between horses and me. Join-Up would become the foundation of all my work with horses and later people, too.

09/04/2019: Many people think if they don’t have big issues with their horse, they don’t need to learn and use the proper language to communicate with horses. What are your thoughts on this matter?

Monty’s Answer: Many people think a lot of things. It is not for me to say that their system, whatever it is, is not as good as mine. If they are happy with what they do, keep doing it. But the more we learn, the more we know. Those who believe they have the best system often find that the use of the proper language to communicate with horses is superior if they take the time to understand it. I often say to my students "My way is the only way for me today, but if you show me a better way, that will be my way tomorrow.” I am still learning. My techniques have morphed in such a way so as to improve right up to this very day.

08/28/2019: Your most famous concept is Join-Up® – can you explain what it means to horse people who have no idea of what it’s all about?

Monty’s Answer: Join-Up can be defined as that moment when the horse chooses to be with you as opposed to away from you. Horses cannot lie and it should be remembered that a good trainer can get a horse to do most anything but the great trainer can get the horse to want to do it. Join-Up is the process of communicating with the horse to create an environment of cooperation. Join-Up can be achieved with all horses of any age or background. It is as effective on wild mustangs as it is on the gentle child’s horse.

The practice of Join-Up is a commitment to a path that two species travel together in search of commonality, friendship and survival. This is my journey, what the horses taught me and what we have shared. It replaced my pain with joy, and replaced resentment with a willingness to serve. The process has no time constraints; it has no definable beginning or end. The process does not begin when you arrive at the barn to meet your horse; it begins when you wake up in the morning and exists even as you sleep.

But Join-Up is also a philosophy of living and working with horses. Join-Up is far more than one procedure. It is a way of life for humans too. I tell my students to live by the concepts of Join-Up for the life of the horse and for yourself as well.

8/21/2019: Is it true that each autumn you go to the UK and work with horses owned by Her Majesty Queen Elisabeth II and start her young most precious horses there?

Monty’s Answer: It is true that I start each crop of Thoroughbred yearlings for Her Majesty and have done so for the past ten years. I have been fortunate to receive an MVO distinction from Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II and we maintain a friendship since 1989, when she first requested I demonstrate my methods with her horses. It was The Queen who encouraged me to write my autobiography, The Man Who Listens to Horses, which has sold more than six million copies.

8/14/2019: What inspired you to dedicate your life to travel all over to educate and spread non-violent methods of working horses?

Monty’s Answer: Queen Elizabeth II is a very inspirational world leader. Her encouragement ranks high on the list of those who are responsible for my obsession. Education is the only way to plant the seed of change.

8/7/2019: What inspired you to learn more about horses and their communication system?

Monty’s Answer: Seventy-two prepubescent fractures from a violent father set me on a course to break the chain of violence in my family. Watching my father kill and injure many horses deepened my resolve to make the change.

7/31/2019: You’ve been traveling all over the world to show people non violent methods of working with horses, starting green horses, working with remedial, abused horses. What was the biggest challenge in your work?

Monty’s Answer: I have traveled and done my work now in forty-three countries. There is no question that the biggest challenge are the people and not the horses. The doubters, naysayers and outright violent people slow down the process.

7/24/2019: You have set yourself a mission "to leave the world a better place for horses and people”. It’s a great mission, but can one man change the world?

Monty’s Answer: No one man can change the world. What one man has to do is stretch to change the world. Through the demonstrations of an improved technique, others will take up the cause and collectively change the world. I have been fortunate enough to have the influential people such as Queen Elizabeth II to increase the numbers assisting me.

07/17/2019: Unfortunately my five-year-old Haflinger mare lost her eye because of an accident. I wondered how you would work with her, because she can not see anything on her left side and your training methods are based on body language. Have you ever worked with a (half) blind horse and how would you do that?

Monty’s Answer: It was 1984 and during the Los Angeles Olympics that I was notified to appear in Superior Court dead center in Los Angeles. It was memorable because they called it the traffic challenge of the century as the Olympics were in full swing. As an expert witness, I remember taking the stand to testify in the case of a young lady being severely injured while riding a borrowed horse which had only one eye.

The case happened to be against the owner who loaned the horse to the young lady. I didn’t have a connection with either side of the lawsuit. I was called by the attorneys to give expert testimony regarding the issues faced by the rider of the one-eyed horse. I felt I was doing a good job when the judge interrupted the proceedings and said he had a few questions himself.

The judge then asked me if I had ever given advice to someone who intended to ride a one-eyed horse. I responded by saying I had done that on many occasions. The judge then asked me if I was in the habit of teaching people to ride, train or handle horses in general. My answer was yes, most of my life. The judge asked me if I felt the rider or handler was placed in the safest possible position when riding or handling the one-eyed horse. I responded by saying “Other things being equal, a horse with two eyes is safer than a horse with one eye.”

With that the judge announced that he appreciated my testimony and in the future he would use that knowledge to find that an instructor/advisor was not giving the best advice possible to someone intending to ride or handle a one-eyed horse. The judge indicated that the owner of the horse should have given the advice stating that this was less than an entirely safe situation. The judge went on to say that in his opinion no professional should give any advice about handling or riding a one-eyed horse to anyone at any time.

He said that there is evidence that there are many horses on this earth with two eyes and if they are safer then that is what the inquirer should be riding or handling. I had a private conversation with the judge at the close of the day. He advised me against risking my reputation as a professional against giving any advice regarding a one-eyed horse. He said its simply too risky, and he reminded me that one has probably no idea regarding the ability of the inquirer or in fact, what that person might be intending to do. I hope you understand, Noa, why I have followed that advice without exception since 1984.


07/10/2019: My question is, can we train our horses not to be reactive to herd behavior? I have a six-year-old mare who was taken away from her mother relatively young, at 11 months. She displays a lot of naughty behavior, e.g. is moody around other horses, pins her ears if they get close, tries to kick, squeals, can also challenge her handler i.e. me, and can be quite argumentative and stubborn when riding, she is more reactive to young horses not so much to mature horses, a friend has suggested she go out with a herd to learn some manners….your opinion would be much appreciated.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. It gives me an opportunity to outline my thoughts on this business of separating the young from its mother. First let me outline that most young horses are weaned as babies between 5-8 months of age. I am of the opinion that a young horse will do better when weaned at around five month of age.

The problems you have outlined have virtually nothing to do, in my opinion, with the date of weaning. There are two major factors in producing the type of behavior you inquire about. One is too much inappropriate contact with human beings and too much time before warning. Those who have suggested more contact with a mature herd are probably not so far off.

It is my sense of your question that there is far too much inappropriate contact with human beings. I suggest you learn through From My Hands to Yours a more appropriate handling of this mare as it is described in my textbook. May I also suggest the concepts I use be visited on the Monty Roberts Online University which has more than 500 short lessons specific to my concepts. Let us know how circumstances progress with your mare and we will attempt to help wherever possible.

07/03/2019: Dear Monty,

First off I want to thank you for opening my eyes to a better way of training horses. When I was younger and first got into horses it was through an older gentleman who had a talent for horses but was much like your father in his methods. Looking back, I am ashamed at the methods I used “breaking” horses under his guidance on his ranch. I remember in particular a bay colt he had me tie high to a dally pole and sack it out with a rolled up feed sack and the fear in his eyes as he could go no where. Then he would saddle him tied that way and get on because the idea was he couldn’t buck when tied high to the dally pole. His methods worked to get him riding but that horse was so scared of people that he was dangerous when not under saddle. He eventually sold him at a kill pen.

Last night I saddled up and rode a young colt for his first ride that reminded me of that colt I ruined years ago. What a difference your methods have made for me in the last eight years. He was so calm and willing to learn, following me around like a dog when I got off the saddle because he trusted me and truly wanted to be by me.

Sorry for getting off topic. The question is, is it good to have other people ride your horses. Will it help them to trust humans more if they are ridden by multiple people? Some people don’t want others riding for various reasons such as teaching bad habits, don’t ride same as they do etc. I have several horses I let anyone ride because they put up with a lot of mistakes. I have a mustang for years that I never let anyone ride but me. What is the best approach?

The reason this is in my head is because I am working with a 12-year-old gelding that was given to me. Seemed in good care, good ground manners, didn’t show fear of people or signs of abuse, he was just a pasture pet that had never been ridden. I have him riding good for me and he trusts me and enjoys being around me and other people, but when someone else tries to get on him he will not stand still and prances around in a circle snorting. Never moves an inch when I put my foot in the stirrup.

Should I push him to accept other riders now or give him more time? I’ve probably started 100 horses with your methods and understand a horses lack of trust when there is evidence of abuse or fear instilled in them. I don’t believe that is the case with this horse so this is new territory for me.

Monty’s Answer: What I want you to do is put all of those original, old fashioned methods on a piece of paper, touch a match to it and just plain forget about them. That’s the way it was for 6000 years. Fortunately the world is moving away from the old techniques and beginning to strike violence from the procedures regarding the training of horses.

Horses are neophobic. This means they are skeptical and/or frightened of anything new. When we put a bit on a horse we seek to put the best one we can find. When we put a saddle on a horse we seek to find the most comfortable possible. When we put an unfamiliar rider on a horse it certainly should be someone who knows what they are doing.

Once a horse has carried a collection of competent riders the tendency will be to accept new riders with less skepticism. Once your horse has performed for several riders they know nothing about, and these new riders perform reasonably well, the better chance you have that your horse will accept unfamiliar riders far more comfortably.

Please take advantage of my Monty Roberts Online University to experience the many lessons available there. The lesson on The Mounting Block introduction occurs to me to be a good pathway to answering this question. One can control the movements of a horse at the mounting block with a much better chance to cause a horse to relax and accept a new rider.

There are so many lessons which relate to your question, it occurs to me it is a fertile road map to expand your use of my concepts and to cause your horse to want to become a partner instead of the old way of attempting to force your horse to be a partner. Congratulations on the growth of your knowledge concerning non-violence.

6/26/2019: I’ve spent years working with horses, most all have problems and I usually can solve them, by trying different things. But I have this one mare that I don’t know where to start. She has definitely been so abused that she doesn’t trust anyone. I had her to where she would let me touch her face and now out of no where, she has decided to not let me touch her at all, she bolts and runs. If I do get close, she freezes and acts like a bomb ready to blow, eyes wide. Can I ask where you would start with her? When you get a halter on, she will let you do anything, but I would like her to be that way, without a halter or rope. She just doesn’t trust, so what ever was done to her, is ingrained in her big time. Really would like to know your thoughts.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for this very important question. Oftentimes this behavior is the result of perfectly normal treatment of one sort or another for a problem. The doctoring of head wounds, ear problems or dental work all rank strongly in creating the head shy condition. Of course the number one cause is human violence.

Hitting a horse for nipping or acting out to cause pain with a twitch or any other instrument also contribute greatly. Like so many behavior problems we address with horses, we need to relax, take a breath and think through what might help us. One of the things that has been very foremost in the work I’ve done with head shy horses is to go to the market and buy the little squeeze bottle of honey. While there, purchase a wooden kitchen spoon.

Go to your horse, and put a drop or two of honey on the opposite end of the spoon from the large spoon portion. Hold the cup like portion of this instrument in your hand and see what you can do about placing the honey portion in the corner of the mouth. If this proves to be impossible, put a few drops of honey on the rim of the horse’s grain bin. You even might add a few drops to the top of the grain.

Horses typically learn very quickly to love honey. It’s generally a very short period of time until you can put the stick in the corner of the mouth. Add more honey and make a little game of it so that the horse awaits your arrival with the honey on a stick. Take this procedure with you to the bit and you will successfully reduce ear sensitivity or head touching sensitivity of any kind. This procedure is well documented on my Online University and one should see the videos and repeat the solution.

06/19/2019: I’m wondering if we can hypnotize horses, in some way or another? I was searching and digging for how horses think. I was wondering about it, if we can do it.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for a very interesting question. I wish I knew the answer because the academic world would consider me to be well aware of how horses think.

The fact is, I don’t know anything about people hypnotizing other people. Several professors have never given me a definitive answer as to how hypnosis is done on the human. I simply don’t know whether horses can be hypnotized nor do I know anyone else who can certify that they know whether horses can be hypnotized. It is my opinion that there is too much conversation from people who claim to know what a horse is thinking but can never seem to prove their conclusions.

06/12/2019: Are there any experiences or examples that you witnessed that you consider to demonstrate spirituality in your horses?

Citation: Ball, A., Kapler, D., Cline, K., & Thompson, C. (2019). Caring for the Spiritual Part of Therapeutic Horses within a Quadrant Approach. Unpublished Manuscript.

Monty’s Answer: This answer will raise eyebrows. It is my opinion that very few people believe the circumstances of this interaction. It happened, I was there and it will remain with me for the rest of my days.

The female of virtually every specie is a nurturer. In the DNA is a desire to give birth, care for and educate an offspring. The desire to protect that offspring is one of the deepest qualities with in Equus Caballos. The lowly mare will take on a lion or a tiger to save her baby. This will often cost them their life and maybe even the lives of both mother and child. It is one of the strongest patterns of behavior nature has instilled in Equus. I was asked to put the first saddle and rider on a mustang mare untouched by human hand.

It happened she was a mother. Her foal had been weaned from her for approximately two and a half weeks. At the appropriate moment, an assistant brought a western saddle into my round pen and placed it in the center on the soil. I began to walk toward the saddle and my mustang mare went by me at top speed. She savaged the saddle using both front feet and her mouth to rip it to shreds. The out gate was directly across from where I stood. I circled the round pen staying as close to the fence as possible.

It is distinct in my memory that I was the next item on the menu. I simply felt I was 100% correct when the mare left the saddle and went straight at me. I went into fetal position on the ground next to the fence. The mare stopped squarely over the top of me. I could see her front feet tapping the ground just an inch or so from where my hands gripped the earth. I could feel her hind feet doing a tap dance while touching the toes of my boots with half of her steps. After about fifteen seconds, the mare broke away from me and made one more attempt at the saddle just as I began to rise, she wielded and returned to me at top speed.

The mare repeated the same dance she had done seconds before. At that point I heard a thumping on the back of my jeans, right at the area of the calf. I could imagine what it was and somehow I managed to twist my neck enough to see that their was milk dripping from her udder, one side on my left calf and one on my right. My jeans began to soak with the milk of this mare. I called to my assistant to view this closely because he was seeing something that, quite possibly, no other modern horseman had ever seen. The mare allowed me to stand and we carefully used a different saddle. She was ridden on that day and went on to become a mustang champion.

6/5/2019: What example(s) of communion in empathetic intimacy have you experienced or witnessed in your horses, if any?

Monty’s Answer: Horses are sensitive to our emotions and physiology. The primary example I can give you concerning “communion in empathetic intimacy” has to do with a horse I worked with just yesterday. She is an untrained four year old. I caused her to trust me through Join-Up® and accept her first saddle and rider.

After that experience, I successfully caused her to follow me in the enclosure, an act which was clearly empathetic. At the conclusion of my demonstration I hurried away from the horse to the other side of the pen and asked an audience of 50 persons to clap their hands together just one time, loudly. The horse did not just come to me, but ran to me as fast as she could.

To the extent that she could, she wrapped her body around me to be as close to me as she could possibly manage. Any intelligent viewer would label this action as communion in empathetic intimacy.

5/29/2019: What example(s) of experience of wonder or curiosity have you experienced or witnessed in your horses, if any?

Monty’s Answer: Only a few minutes ago I observed a cervidae (deer) viewing me in wonder and curious as to whether I might be carrying a little piece of apple with me. He is bonded to me and I have produced apple slices in the past. There is no question that he views me and clearly states “I wonder if he has a piece of apple. I am curious as to whether he is carrying a piece of apple.” I believe he looks to me and wonders whether I have a piece of apple or not. He is bonded to me and is satisfied I will cause him no harm. His view of strangers will cause him to utilize all measures to survive. In the case of a flight animal, this is to flee. His view of strangers will cause him to utilize all measures to survive. In the case of a flight animal like my horses, this is to flee to eat another day.

5/22/2019: What example of experience of dread or terror have you experienced or witnessed in your horses, if any?

Monty’s Answer: Every horse, every day has given me some evidence that experiences in the past have produced dread or terror. A perfect example of this is a horse I worked with in the last hour. One can accomplish virtually anything with this particular individual, unless you are in sight of a racing starting gate. Stevie Wonder could see the terror within the brain cells of this horse when he is near a racing gate. Since I did not see what caused this, I won’t speculate.

5/15/2019: What examples of careful observation have you experienced or witnessed in your horses, if any?

Monty’s Answer: Every flight animal that I have ever worked with has expressed to me “careful observation.” It is clear to me that horses, antelope and certainly all of of the cervidae species rely upon careful observation in order to achieve one of the only two goals they have in life, one being survival. The second goal all flight animals possess is reproduction. It is clear that careful observation enhances their possibility to succeed in that area as well.

05/08/2019: According to author James Harrod (2011), a definition of trans-species spirituality is marked by five behaviors in animals: reverence, careful observation, the experience of dread or terror, the experience of wonder or curiosity, and communion in empathetic intimacy. In a quest to understand if horses possess spirituality, we ask the following question: What examples of reverence have you experienced or witnessed in your horses, if any?

Monty’s Answer: Throughout my more than eight decades of working with horses, I have concluded that while I believe in a Creator I do not believe that horses have the capacity to stop and think how the Creator might view any given situation. I do not believe that horses have the capacity of perceiving circumstances outside of their sphere. It is my belief that horses are reactive to the circumstances within their sphere.

5/1/2019: Hi! I am preparing to train a horse that I would love to race! I am new to this but not to horses, my family has been in the horse industry for ever. I have horses that come from Secretariat and Seattle Slew, I am super excited about this. What is the best thing that I can do to start the training?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. Please try to move your mind to the fact that these are simply horses. If I have a particular expertise heading the list of my equine experiences, it is the starting of young Thoroughbreds and preparing them for a race career. Each and every concept I have learned from these eight decades is consistent with the needs of the young racehorse prospect.

We have an Online University. It is loaded with lessons on the starting elements of young horses. There are 550 lessons available and at least half of them are appropriate to visit regarding the early training of horses intended to race. There is also my textbook From My Hands to Yours available.

If I have over 500 appropriate lessons online and a textbook filled with explanation photographs and drawings, it is difficult to wrap all of this in the answer to your question. I appreciate the inquiry but the answer is massive and requires sufficient interest to dig into all of the material available to you. I am happy to answer specific questions once at trip through the mentioned elements has been completed.

4/24/19: Today I tried your suggestion of bumping the Dually halter instead of a steady pull. It seemed to work better and I think we can make progress. But I’m also trying to make sure I don’t ask too much of him, like trying to keep his nose at the perfect spot by my shoulder.

Also, does a horse not concentrate or behave as well when he is worked with in his “own” pasture? What I’m trying to ask is if he thinks he doesn’t need to behave/listen to me because “ It’s my pasture”; kind of like a territorial problem?

By the way, I also have a Giddy-up rope. I have read “The Man Who Listens to Horses” and “Shy Boy”. I’m also subscribed to the weekly Ask Monty emails. I look forward to them each week.

I love my Dually halter! I hope you didn’t mind this long email but I love to hear your opinions.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for the follow up. I do not regard the pasture or any other location as an invitation for any horse to misbehave. Once you are in the presence of your horse all aspects of respect and proper behavior are expected and required. Thank you for the effort to get these things right. I am here if you need further info.

4/17/2019: Hi! I had a question concerning Join-Up, and it is, can you do Join-Up with an already bomb proof horse? My horse is a 18 year-old Quarter Horse, and he’s about as solid as they come. It’s like nothing fazes him, when I try to send him away, he just stands there and does nothing. Am I not being clear enough in my signals, or is he confused by what I’m trying to get him to do?

Monty’s Answer: While it’s true that I believe Join-Up is most important in the young or untrained horse, I often do Join-Up with older horses that have been thoroughly trained. If a horse is bonded to human beings to the extent that they have lost their desire to flee, I often use plastic shopping bags on the end of a stick, which are generally quite successful. Please don’t feel it is necessary to cause pain by striking the horse. If he does not respond to the shopping bags or the normal clicking sound or line tossing that I use, then just love him and accept the fact that he is a wonderful horse.

4/10/2019: I value your opinions, which I look forward to reading every week on questions and answers. One of which works so well when you gave advice for someone who had a ‘biting’ horse. You suggested tapping them gently with your foot whenever they go to nip – it totally surprises them as normally you’d use your hand to shield or even reprimand. It really does work thank you.

My question to you is nothing to do with biting, but in your wisdom and affinity with studying horses, do you think that they get bored and unhappy if they are not ridden or worked very much even though they are well cared for? I have an ex-racehorse who is now 12 years old and I only have time to ride once or twice a week just hacking out. He is stabled at night and out in four acres during the day with a companion, but sometimes I just think he may need more stimulation with his breeding. I care about his happiness, which is the only thing that worries me sometimes. I am lucky to have my own stables and grazing at home, so therefore I am seeing him from my window all the time. Every time I step outside he looks to me and asks “what are we doing now then mum”!

Monty’s Answer: After a second read of Christine’s Question, Monty adds this to his answer:

I really appreciate your desire to meet the needs of your horse. It is clear that you have a strong affinity for this animal and I have a feeling that you are simply worrying too much in the areas you describe. Each of us should remember who Equus the horse is, how long he has been around and what his historical patterns of evolution have taken place. It has been 50 million years and evidence shows that they were quite happy to exist with a family group and graze on open plains for more than 49 million years before there was even a human on earth.

Sometimes we have a tendency – I admit to it myself – to think that we are more important to the horse than we generally are. It is my opinion that it is OK to make this mistake because the human can rationalize love, bonding and a commitment to the needs of others. Horses are quite happy to simply live with their friends and graze on available grass. What you want is to feel good about your commitment to the horse. That is not a bad idea. It sounds to me like you are being very responsible to the every day needs of your horse. Please worry less about the emotional needs that you feel for him.

4/3/2019: Hi, total long shot me asking but need some serious help before I’m really injured. My horse has started bolting. It started when I moved to a yard that has trains passing by, I moved yards hoping it would stop but it hasn’t! I have now fallen off three times in the last few weeks and he is now so dangerous. I’ve had back done, teeth, everything checked… please could you help me!

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. It is a serious one. Please stop what you are doing. Do not mount this horse until you have sought assistance from a highly educated and recognized horse person. Horses get the blame for creating accidents when in fact it is the human who creates the accident.

Horses are flight animals. They use their right to flee whenever they feel they are in an unsafe place. It is not right for me to answer this question without knowing all the facts involved. What I do know is that injuries to the human being are never the answer to any problem. Get help and advise me so that I can follow the effort to correct this problem. Stop putting yourself in dangerous positions with this horse.

3/27/2019: I value your opinions which I look forward to reading every week on questions and answers. One time you gave advice for someone who had a “biting” horse. You suggested tapping them gently with your foot whenever they go to nip – it totally surprises them as normally you’d use your hand to shield or even reprimand. It really does work thank you.

My question to you is nothing to do with biting, but in your wisdom and affinity with studying horses, do you think that they get bored and unhappy if they are not ridden or worked very much even though they are well cared for? I have an ex-racehorse who is now 12 year old and I only have time to ride once or twice a week just hacking out.

He is stabled at night and out in four acres during the day with a companion, but sometimes I just think he may need more stimulation with his breeding. I care about his happiness which is the only thing that worries me sometimes. I am lucky to have my own stables and grazing at home, so therefore I am seeing him from my window all the time. Every time I step outside he looks to me and asks “what are we doing now then mum!”

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your question. It is my opinion that horses in general are very generous. They are active and I believe they do get bored if idle for prolonged periods of time. Many equine behaviorists, including myself, believe strongly that this is the primary reason for horses developing stable vices. Crib biting, box walking, weaving and several other negative behaviors often occur with an idle horse.

Be as active as you possibly can and include your horse in those activities. Ride more often if possible or simply just run with your horse in his field if you possibly can. I believe they know if you like them and want to be with them. It is my opinion they are healthier in every way when we spend as much time as possible with them. Some groundwork exercises, such as games you might play with him which you have created, can be fun and rewarding.

3/20/2019: Monty, don’t you think your methods are being used by people who are too inexperienced?

Monty’s Answer: Yes, you are right. Inexperienced people are going to use these methods. They are going to work with horses, and any method they use is a problem. What is the solution to the problems encountered by inexperienced people? Education. And I am here to tell you that you have a lot of opportunities to learn.

With courses, with books, with DVDs, with my Equus Online University lessons, there are opportunities all over the place for an education that will support hands-on experience. Inexperienced people simply need to get experience and education in order to improve their horsemanship skills.

Experience is part of the learning process. Don’t you think that too many children in the first grade are inexperienced? Yes, and they are looking for an education. It’s the same thing in the horse industry.

3/13/2019: Do you believe that, one day, there will be no harsh or violent horsemanship anymore?

Monty’s Answer: It is difficult to imagine that every violent human being will be changed at some point in the future. The violence we see by one human toward another human is overwhelming, and it’s 2019. I do believe that if there is a chance to eliminate violence, it will probably come first to man-and-animal relationships and later to human-to-human relationships. Whatever the outcome, I guarantee you I will not be around to celebrate that wonderful day. It is simply my hope that I can leave the next generation one step closer to violence-free training.

3/6/2019: I have been around horses for most of my life, never owning a farm but working at one from a young and “stupid” child. Doing the silliest and most dangerous things around horses, always trusting them and being seriously naive. Strangely and luckily I was never thrown by my horse. I rode bareback, with a saddle, with no bridle, with nothing at all. She took very good care of me and I her.

Now at 58, I am questioning something I don’t have a clue how to answer… even understanding the present herd dynamics of five mares, one of them being mine and the youngest.

I am limited where to ride my little 8 year old Arabian mare. I am not fond of riding alone around the 100 acres of land and don’t wish to ride on a busy road as she still spooks sometimes and has dumped me four times now while training her.

My question is: Is it safe and/or possible to ride within the confines of the 4 acre paddocks with the other 4 mares loose and in April one new foal?

Walk and trot, circle and figure eights, up and down the fence line, nothing crazy or fast.

Thanks for your expert opinion and I LOVE your books!

Warmest regards, ride like the wind!

Monty’s Answer: The fact that you asked is a good sign you are willing to learn. It would not be on my list of recommendations to ride in any field with any number of horses, let alone a group of mares. Adding to that, one that is about to foal is a further complication. Near the foaling time, mares will begin to become protective of the foal they are carrying. In addition it is simply not safe to ride in any area with limited riding skills and where there are loose horses which can express dangerous behavioral problems at the bat of an eye.

Alternative riding areas are not a part of your question but I have to say there must be a safer place for you to ride. Please take a red crayon from a child’s crayon box and write the words SAFETY FIRST right over the room where your saddles are kept and then live by those words so that well intended horses are not blamed for injuries you might acquire simply because you were not attentive to safety measures.

Again, thank you for asking. I am sure you will re-think this and alter your riding plans.

2/27/2019: My horse is terrified of the sound velcro makes, it’s a nightmare with rugs, fly masks, etc, because a lot of them have velcro on. Any advice welcome, as she throws herself backwards. She is a Welsh section D. She’s had a lot of homes until I had her because of behavior problems. She wouldn’t be ridden, she threw everyone off, turned her bum on you in stable, wouldn’t be caught. She is in her forever home with me and I’ve taken her back to basics and started with getting her to trust me, grooming and just being relaxed when touched etc. I joined your Online University and we have come on leaps and bounds, she’s enjoying being ridden, we’re still in early stages and she’s doing great. Just velcro and carrier bags are our nemesis.

Monty’s Answer: Horses go faster when you squeak or cluck to them. I have written that the reason horses pick up speed with the squeaking sound we make with our lips and tongue is because it emulates the sound of breaking twigs by a hungry lion. A tiny twig broken under the foot of a predator will send most horses off at a high rate of speed.

The sound of velcro is like a major branch, not just a tiny twig. Having said these things, horses can become accustomed to almost anything. If a certain sound is repeated often without pain or injury connected with it, horses will eventually accept that sound. Recently I had occasion to have an animal housed near an emergency generator. The generator would start automatically whenever there was a power outage.

We recently has a lot of bad weather and many power outages. I noticed cuts on the nose and face of this animal. Literally I saw an explosion of fear upon the engine start up. What I decided to do was move the animal further from the generator, have someone hold him and then we physically started the engine several times, gradually moving our ‘victim’ closer and closer to the generator. Within about a half an hour he could put his nose near the generator and allow it to start and stop without any reaction at all.

The lesson in this is not to hide the velcro, but start out with it further from the animal and gradually move closer and closer, ripping the velcro apart over and over again. It’s amazing to see the race horses at the major tracks of the world allowing velcro closures to be ripped off their legs after each workout, only tolerated because it is repeated many times without pain and injury.

2/20/2019: I have a gelding standard bred and I have had him for a few months more than two years. He has behaved very well and I got a saddle for my birthday recently and have ridden him a fair bit. But lately he has been trying to bite me but not while I am riding him, when I’m brushing him that’s when he usually tries to bite me.

It’s not like he tries to bite me really quick, he goes slowly and puts his lips up and half bites with his lips not straight away with his teeth. I was just wondering if you would have any good tips about how to stop this without violence.

Monty’s Answer: Bad behavior is almost always the fault of a human and not the fault of the horse. Since you are writing to me as a student, I will assume you have not fed this horse from your hands but do you know if this is also the case of others who have handled him? Feeding a horse from the hand is one of the most common mistakes made by horse owners in the world today. Many people hold the mistaken assumption that feeding treats will cause your horse to want to be with you and encourage affection – in fact, it causes your horse to want to be with your treat, not you, and if you are in the way they will nip or bite you.

If you wish to give your horse carrots or apples that is fine, but put them on the ground or in the feed bin rather than offering them with your hand. A horse is a prey animal, and as such, food is not seen as a ‘trophy’ in the same way as a predator, such as a dog, does. I have worked with hundreds, possibly thousands, of horses that bite, and I have found a very simple and effective solution. When the horse reaches to bite you, you need to tap him lightly on the shin of his leg with your foot. I am not, repeat, NOT, encouraging you to strike a horse to cause pain.

What I am suggesting you do is to cause the horse to associate the thought of biting with being distracted by a bump on another part of his body, namely his front leg. This is a form of behavior habituation, and within 6 to 8 repetitions you will see that your horse moves to nip and then looks down at his leg. This training will make the behavior extinct within a short period of time.

Some horses will begin to show wariness at your feet being close to its legs if you use this consequence to biting very often. To offset the chance of this happening, you can habituate your horse to having your foot near his leg by rubbing your boot in that area. By doing this, the horse will learn that bumping is exclusively associated with his biting.

There is a particularly good lesson on my online university where I utilize the Dually Halter in a session to focus the horse on my requests to move and do the ‘Dually Dance’ which is also an effective distraction and a leadership lesson. Go to https://montyrobertsuniversity.com/training/2031189068

Please let me know how you and your gelding progress.

2/13/2019: Do you think it is possible and realistic to have high level performance sport, or racing, with no whip use at the competition? What about no whip use at all, even at home?

Monty’s Answer: According to tack shops, the whip is always the number-one selling piece of equipment around the world. It amazes me that we have dealt with horses for approximately 8,000 years, yet failed to learn that the whip is probably the most ineffective tool. If our goal is to create resentment in a horse, then I suppose I would have to change my view, but if cooperation is sought after, the whip is certainly the wrong choice of equipment.

A long time ago I was asked to write an essay on the use of the whip in the racing industry. Bearing in mind that the whip is still a whip, no matter what discipline, and that a horse is still a horse, no matter what his breed or lifestyle. You should realize that when I speak to the issue of the whip, I am dealing with the use of it where the intention is to strike the horse causing him pain.

I understand that there are disciplines where the whip can be used strictly as an instrument of communication. Dressage is a discipline where the whip is often used only with a touch to convey a message. Certain competition driving is conducted in a fashion where the whip is an effective method of communication. Please assimilate the information I am offering with the understanding that my objections refer solely to the whip’s use to inflict pain.

2/6/2019: Hello, my name is Jack. I’m nine years old, and I have a pony issue! My pony is a 13.2 Gypsy Vanner called Bonnie. She’s my best friend. Everything about her is perfect except her feet. From her knees down to her hooves is too dangerous for me. She freaks out bucking, pawing and jumps about. I want to be able to pick my ponies feet up myself, instead of getting an adult do it! Please help us!

Monty’s Answer: It might be a lot better to have an adult help you in the early going. Injuries to young horse people generally result in them moving away from horses. I don’t want you to be injured. I would suggest that an adult who has handled horses’ legs before at least gives you a start on the process of solving the problem. If you go on my Online University you will find lessons on handling legs. I recommend an artificial arm be used before risking your own arm. There are directions on how an artificial arm is made. There is also a chapter in my textbook, From My Hands to Yours, on handling equine legs. It describes how I use the artificial arm.

Please remember that safety is a very important issue.

1/30/2019: Since I began to ride over sixty years ago, I have almost constantly been encouraged to carry a whip. In some cases, horses that were always whipped, don’t tend to respect the rider unless he carries it. I was taught to USE it too, and it can be very effective in getting what I want from the Horse!

I never really liked to use a whip, or crop, as we call it. Around age 17 I rode a horse who had been spoiled, Once there were no trainers about, I commenced riding, using the crop only when the Horse REFUSED to obey my signals, otherwise using natural aids only.

At the end of that hour I rode with no further use of the crop, and indeed, rarely ever used or even carried it again. For many years now, I always ride every horse without carrying a crop and almost always have no need to ask for one.

I am most definitely of the opinion that any horse trained without punishment, will never need punishment!

Many riding schools in Britain insist that riders carry a crop. I rode one Thoroughbred horse, who had been sold cheaply to the riding school because he was dangerous, bucking people off. I didn’t carry a crop and although he bucked initially, he didn’t throw me and after a few rides, stopped bucking. He was a marvelous ride!

The week before I first rode him, I watched him dispatch one of our trainers. When he napped (refused to go forward), she hit him. She landed about ten feet from where the horse was standing, all I thought was, don’t carry a stick on Malone!

I do believe that any use of whips, sticks, or crops is unnecessary, and counterproductive. I equally firmly believe, that if they were not used, they never would be needed.

You might have concluded, from the forgoing, that I am an experienced, or even professional rider, but no, I have only ever been a weekend rider, and not a particularly strong rider at best. I always believed that animals should be understood, not bullied. I didn’t like being bullied either!

Mr. Roberts, I have four of your books, all of which I have read,and reread. I have given away five or six copies of “The Man Who Listens to Horses” and have another already for someone else.

I have two of your videos, Shy Boy and Join-Up. I watched you live at the RDS Dublin and I am very impressed with almost everything you do.

Monty’s Answer: In this particular incident, our beliefs and concepts are so far apart that it’s difficult for me to be fair with an answer. Whatever works to cause the horse to want to do the procedure is OK with me so long as it is not violent. My belief is that the use of pain is always counter productive and never productive. One can disagree with that notion but that is where I stand. As the world turns you are seeing more and more success coming from trainers who produce less and less pain in the training process.

Correction to my answer to the above, from Monty: Thank you for sending me the story of your journey to take violence out of your enjoyment of riding horses. Unfortunately I read this too quickly and with an assumption in mind that you were going to ask how to justify the occasional use of the crop or whip. I read this part and jumped to conclusions which is something I try never to do:

At the end of that hour I rode with no further use of the crop, and indeed, rarely ever used or even carried it again. For many years now, I always ride every horse without carrying a crop and almost always have no need to ask for one.

Your honesty is refreshing and I am glad you shared your inner dialog about respect for the trainers versus respect for horses. I hope you will forgive my haste and write me any time you need assistance finding alternatives to harsh training.

1/23/2019: I’m hoping you can remember little Smurf who you worked with at Ottly college 2017, I’m sure you will be very pleased to hear we have managed and worked with him with great success to pick up his back hoofs with out kicking out any more.

The reason why I am messaging you is have have a huge problem to desensitize him to people. If you can remember, he is extremely scared of people and although I can desensitize him from any object, people are a huge problem for me, I have had him for coming up to 3 years now and although he half trusts me he still snorts at me in the stable and backs away, if we are out he does this mad panic like I’m going to beat him (I’ve never laid a finger on him) and his fright just takes over to the extent I’ve been to hospital several times with rope burns and broken fingers this year alone. I’m wondering when you are in the UK next so maybe you would come and do some one on one work with me or I could bring him to a venue that you are working at?

Monty’s Answer: I remember Smurf very well. He is not an easy case. People have not been kind to Smurf in the past. It is my opinion that horses have the greatest memory on earth. Please don’t blame him for what others did. You assumed these issues the day you agreed to take him in. Try your level best not to blame him for his fears. They are well founded memories.

Smurf can teach you so much about the stresses of being a horse. If you will just take a breath, relax and learn from him why it is so important to find a safe place. I have been through this so many times in my career and it’s the Smurfs of the world who have taught me the highest percentage of my learning.

1/16/2019: I’m hoping you can remember little Smurf who you worked with at Ottly college 2017, I’m sure you will be very pleased to hear we have managed and worked with him with great success to pick up his back hoofs with out kicking out any more.

The reason why I am messaging you is have have a huge problem to desensitize him to people. If you can remember, he is extremely scared of people and although I can desensitize him from any object, people are a huge problem for me, I have had him for coming up to 3 years now and although he half trusts me he still snorts at me in the stable and backs away, if we are out he does this mad panic like I’m going to beat him (I’ve never laid a finger on him) and his fright just takes over to the extent I’ve been to hospital several times with rope burns and broken fingers this year alone. I’m wondering when you are in the UK next so maybe you would come and do some one on one work with me or I could bring him to a venue that you are working at?

Monty’s Answer: I remember Smurf very well. He is not an easy case. People have not been kind to Smurf in the past. It is my opinion that horses have the greatest memory on earth. Please don’t blame him for what others did. You assumed these issues the day you agreed to take him in. Try your level best not to blame him for his fears. They are well founded memories.

Smurf can teach you so much about the stresses of being a horse. If you will just take a breath, relax and learn from him why it is so important to find a safe place. I have been through this so many times in my career and it’s the Smurfs of the world who have taught me the highest percentage of my learning.

1/9/2019:* The vast majority of horse people will use a whip or stick at some point, mounted or dismounted. Where is the threshold for what you consider to be “cruel” use? Is there a hard line or a blurry line in your opinion for what is abuse?

Monty’s Answer: It is not my intention to address the fine line between attempting to improve performance and/or being cruel. It is my opinion that any time you deliberately strike a horse with the intention to cause pain it enters the category of cruelty. In addition to being cruel, it will eventually be proven to be a mistake when it comes to improving performance.

One of my ‘middle of the night’ thoughts is that it is actually fun to think of ways to cause the horse to accomplish a goal you contemplate without the production of pain. A good education will set your mind to work producing procedures which will accomplish this goal that then allows one to cause the horse to want to do it instead of forcing the horse.

1/2/2019: Do you ride with a whip or use one on the ground? Do you call it a whip? Or a crop? Or something else? Do you think what you call it is important and if so why?

Monty’s Answer: Since 1949 I have not ridden with a whip. I often use the Giddy-Up rope which is a collection of cotton yarn braided soft so that it can cause no pain. It is my opinion that striking the horse causing pain is ultimately counter productive in many ways. I have been able to achieve 11 worlds championships without the use of a whip.

My position has been clear for my entire adult life that causing pain to the flight animal is virtually never productive. Obviously treating an injury can be painful and surgery can produce pain. Whipping to improve performance is a fallacy.

12/26/2018: Monty, I have a question: How does someone find a career in training horses and horses in general? I want to get into a career training and working with horses. So thought I ask you for some advice. Thanks Monty!

Monty’s Answer: Without knowing your age or your motivations it is difficult to advise you. It is however easy to recommend that you get the best education possible from the best people you can find in the horse industry, who are willing to teach you. I have an Online University with over 500 lessons at this point in time. I am happy to have you continue to seek information from us and give us more information about you.

12/19/2018: When you feel overwhelmed or unfocused, or have lost your focus temporarily, what do you do?

Monty’s Answer: When I feel overwhelmed, and that is often, I have learned to:

1. Breathe with my diaphragm
2. Think circumstances through very carefully
3. Start down the list of what I believe to be the most appropriate solutions

12/12/2018: What are bad recommendations you hear in your profession or area of expertise?

Monty’s Answer: Some of the bad recommendations I hear often in the horse industry are:

1. “Just hit him on top of the head when he rears.”
2. “You need a sharper pair of spurs.”
3. “You need a more severe bit.”
4. “Stop him opening his mouth with a tighter noseband.”
5. “Just get rid of the horse. He does that all the time, and his mother was the same way.”
6. “Every horse needs a whack every now and then.”
7. “Just bring me a lunge whip, I’ll make him load.”

12/5/2018: What advice would you give to a smart, driven riding student about to enter the “real world”? What advice should they ignore?

Monty’s Answer: The advice that I would give the student is to become as educated as possible in the behaviour of the chosen animals they work with. Once accomplishing that education, I would ask them to believe in themselves, listen to the highest rated performers but always stay true to the education you have completed. The thing that I would most strongly advise them to ignore is that ever present advice from riding instructors, “Just give him a good whack.”

11/28/2018: In the last five years, what new belief, behavior or habit has most improved your life as a horseman?

Monty’s Answer: Living up to my list of sayings has assisted me greatly in the last 30 years. It was really the completion of my first book that promoted these sayings, which are simply expressions of the things I have learned mostly from the flight animals I call my professors. My obsession with better understanding the flight animal has served me well to improve my horsemanship.

Recently a deer has been my greatest professor of the subjects ‘into pressure’ and the flight animal. He was rescued as a triplet and would have perished if not for his mother who saw fit to bring her three fawns to our front yard, the smallest one weighing 3.5 pounds, unable to nurse and barely able to walk. He is thriving now and will soon be part of our release program. He has been a source of joy and a university of concepts for me.

11/21/2018: If you could have a gigantic billboard in every barn, metaphorically speaking, getting a message out to all the riders in the world, what would it say and why? Are there any quotes?

Monty’s Answer: I would put a very large sign with words I heard in the early 1940’s. My sign would read, “Blaming the horse for being wrong is like blaming the night for being dark.” Horses can only act with their natural God-given tendencies, they cannot lie and they cannot contrive.

11/14/2018: How has a failure, or apparent failure, set you up for later success? Do you have a “favorite failure” of yours?

Monty’s Answer: This is a wonderful question which has come to me in various forms but I like your phrasing. I often tell my students that mistakes (or failures) are our greatest learning tools. The key to causing our failures to assist us is to become keenly observant and seeing our mistakes for what they truly are. So many people want to make excuses for why something turned out in a negative way. Close observation will generally show us we needed to do it differently.

There are two personal failures I have experienced which have served me well when I finally came to observe them clearly. Number one was the use of violence toward animals or other humans. I was imprinted to violence by a violent father and subconsciously I reenacted that behavior. When I learned to take a breath and see the fallacy in violence, it improved my life immensely. It doesn’t mean I never rise to anger, but this lesson caused me to include a certain saying in my list of sayings, which I consider mainstream to my concepts, “Violence is never the answer. Violence is always for the violator and never for the victim. No one of us was born with the right to say You must or I will hurt you, to any other creature, animal or human.”

The second failure took me considerably longer to gain wisdom from than the first one. I had a habit of becoming very angry with my critics. I took the position that they were always wrong. Further, I saw them as uninformed people with no right to criticize me. Later in life I feel as though I woke up one morning and it occurred to me that my critics were my best friends. I say I woke up one morning because it was literally at that moment I realized I was getting up extra early and working hard to get my work right, so that I would not be criticized. With that work ethic in place I became much better at executing my own concepts. Without critics, we tend to get lazy, satisfied with ourselves and less likely to reach the level of excellence we all strive for.

11/7/2018: What is the book (or books) you’ve given most as a gift, and why? And what are one to three books that have greatly influenced your life as a horseman?

Monty’s Answer: The book I have given most as a gift is the child’s version of Shy Boy. I can’t resist giving a child that book if they are interested in this wonderful mustang who is still alive and well at 25 years of age on Flag Is Up Farms. The books that have influenced me most as a horseman are first of all the overall collection of journals put out by the American Horseshows Association throughout the 1940’s and early 1950’s. The next would be a textbook of behavioral studies titled ‘Flight Animals and their Behavioral Patterns.’ It was presented to me in 1954 and written by Dr. Stephen Applegarth. It is a primer on those facets of behavior most important to study flight animals.

10/31/2018: I have a Dartmoor four year old, broken in and going nicely apart from when hacking out with others she kicks anything that comes behind her. Also in the outdoor school she backs up to kick others that are near her. How can I cure this?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. The behavior you describe is as natural as any equine behavior could be, especially for a female. It is very difficult to train away natural protective behavior. It is not a matter of training but it is a situation that needs to be managed with care. One must pay particular attention to reducing those movements that bring on this activity. Attempt at all times to keep the horse from those situations which encourage this behavior.

10/24/2018: A couple of weeks ago you had a question about separation anxiety. I was going to ask you a question then about how to help my old mare’s son cope with her being put to sleep. So this could be a long read.

The decision to have my mare (Tears, 32 with melanomas and a heart murmur) put to sleep at the end of the summer was half taken in the spring as she’d not come through the winter brilliantly weight wise but was her usual bright self, but she was assessed by us almost everyday, this hot summer we’ve just had here in the UK probably didn’t help as her melanomas became much more aggressive and there was very little grass.

My four are split into pairs as Tiggy (who you loaded at The Grange a few years ago) and Winter get on rather too well, he gets very riggy and will mount her hence why they are split. Tiggy out with his mother and Winter with a Welsh Sec A companion pony, on a 2 in/out routine. So Tiggy and mum were in on Wednesday night (13/9/18) and everything appeared fine. Tears ate her dinner that evening and had a lie down, which wasn’t unusual for her at all, we topped up her hay and water and left her lying down chilling out.

In the morning when we went to feed up she had passed away, we think not too long after we’d left, most probably of a heart attack, no signs of thrashing about. So Tiggy had all night to say goodbye to his mum and was very calm, Winter didn’t want to come in at all (she’s an orphan). We let Tiggy out so he could go and groom Winter for some normality of routine, both horses were happy with this. We had some stress from Tiggy and couple of whinnies from Winter when Tears’ body was being removed, Tiggy then screamed the place down for about 2 hours then started to calm himself.

So now we have to have a whole new routine and shuffle of stables. Winter in her now previous stable would weave like a demon, (and did before I bought her to my yard)) so she dug holes in the concrete floor, which I filled with sand then put a rubber mat over! Now however she’s been in Tears’ stable for two days and I’ve seen no sign of her weaving, all the horses seem much more chilled out. Tiggy is not racing around like a lunatic. They now share a field that’s split down the middle so they can see each other, the pony is in with Winter.

So my question is do you think that Tear’s passing has released Tiggy from the stress of trying to look out for both “his” mare’s and Winter from being bullied by essentially an over protective mother, because they didn’t get on at all, and she can now try to be the boss?? I’m hoping that over the next few months Tiggy will become less riggy with Winter and they can all go out together eventually.

Monty’s Answer: Every professor I had at University lectured against any idea that horses could grieve. There are some animals who clearly grieve. Many of the primates fall into this category and the elephant is famous for deep grieving. According to all scientific studies the flight animals will typically walk away from a dead friend or family member.

What one must do is remove the body and then take on a system by which the remaining animals can follow the patterns I recommend in From My Hands To Yours, where over-bonding is concerned. This is a behavior that can negatively impact the life of your horse and also the human family who interact with those animals. I have clearly outlined procedures for separation anxiety in From My Hands To Yours and my Equus Online University.

10/17/2018: A couple of years ago I went to a clinic and this supposed trainer was so violent, I could not have imagined that in these times that anyone could be as terrible as he. I came home and cried and promised my horse that no one would ever raise a hand to them. I have never seen anger. I have never used harshness around our horses in thirty years. I took your beginners course and it was fantastic and one of my best takeaways from it was to slow down, read your horse and if you do not understand, walk away and think things through and try again later…after the adrenaline of frustration has worn off. Just a very basic thought.

Monty’s Answer: It occurs to me that you are a star student. If only people who deal with horses could emulate the words you make in your statement, the world would be better off. There are still individuals who are, or claim to be, influential and teaching that violence is okay.

If one could sit down and think with all their brain cells at work, to act with violence toward the flight animal is one of the least intelligent activities any human being could engage in. While a violent breaking process can produce a broken slave which will attempt to do your bidding, there simply cannot be a relationship that has harmony between the animal and the human.

10/10/2018: I have an older mare of which I have done a couple of sessions of Join-Up! When she turns to face me and licks and chews, I drop my eyes and try the follow up, my mare turns her head away! Why is that? She also does the same thing when I go to catch her in the paddock!

Monty’s Answer: It is very difficult to answer this question without watching you work. Two areas concern me where you may not be getting it right. The first is that you mention the licking and chewing as you are requesting the Join-Up. Typically the licking and chewing is well before the Join-Up.

The second thing that comes to my mind as I listen to your words is you may not be using your eyes correctly. You mentioned dropping your eyes when she looks at you. Timing is critical here. If your eyes challenge the horse, there is the tendency for the horse to look away. Perhaps you could send a video and we could take a look at it.

10/3/2018: You’ve said your goal is to leave the world a better place for horses and people as well. What advice do you have for others who would like to make this their own mission?

Monty’s Answer: It has always been my position one should send the next generation out like ripples on a pond. If the world is to accept my concepts, it will be the next generation or the one after which succeeds in accomplishing this goal. No one human can accomplish global change. It takes hundreds to change thousands and thousands to change millions. I am pledged to keep trying with every day I have left in this life of mine. My advice to others would be to learn my concepts and possibly even improve on them but then dedicate yourself to spreading these messages to the largest group possible in their lifetime.

9/29/2018: You’ve said your goal is to leave the world a better place for horses and people as well. What advice do you have for others who would like to make this their own mission?

Monty’s Answer: It has always been my position one should send the next generation out like ripples on a pond. If the world is to accept my concepts, it will be the next generation or the one after which succeeds in accomplishing this goal. No one human can accomplish global change. It takes hundreds to change thousands and thousands to change millions. I am pledged to keep trying with every day I have left in this life of mine. My advice to others would be to learn my concepts and possibly even improve on them but then dedicate yourself to spreading these messages to the largest group possible in their lifetime.

9/19/2018: How can this benefit not just horse owners, but those working with other animals and our personal relationships?

Monty’s Answer: It is my steadfast opinion that the animal kingdom is far closer to humans than modern man has perceived it to be. It seems to me every corporation that has attended my clinics has perceived the following statement to be the strongest takeaway for them: the good trainer can make a horse do whatever he wants it to. The great trainer can cause the horse to want to do it. If that lesson is lived out by with every parent, boss or in fact every human this world over, all relationships would be improved.

9/12/2018: Non-violence in horse training, why is it important?

Monty’s Answer: To answer this question would literally take a book. To bring you the essence of its importance, it is everything one should know, and live by, while training horses. The flight animal is negatively impacted by pain and violence throughout any and all procedures. To me, non-violence is the hallmark of everything that a good trainer does with the horses who he or she works with. Violence is never the answer; it is always for the violator and never for the victim. No one of us was born with the right to say ‘You must or I’ll hurt you’ to any other creature, animal or human.

9/5/2018: What is the best way to deal with separation anxiety. My gelding has become attached to a mare on the yard. They are in seperate paddocks next door but one. I want him to be able to come away from other horses and stand in on his own. When I do this is runs back and forth to his stable door and shouts and he not concentrate on his work when I ride him in the school. I feel he would attach himself to anything, not just her. Any advice on what I should do. Thanks.

Monty’s Answer: Don’t leave him alone! My best advice is to take him to a neighbor’s place where they have a safe holding facility and leave him near other horses to begin the process of separation. If it is absolutely necessary to leave him alone, he must be left in the safest possible stable and do that only if there is no other alternative.

Separation anxiety is rapidly becoming one of the most important remedial problems of our time. I suppose with properties becoming smaller, and horses being kept in close proximity, this bonding process is becoming more and more pervasive. Horses are herd animals. They rely upon the presence of other familiar animals to feel safe. It might be a goat, or a sheep, it might even be a dog or a cat.

People can even be a calming influence if the horse regards the person as a friend. There is a lesson in this somewhere. In my textbook From My Hands to Yours it will expand on many details that I am not able to include in this Question and Answer format.

All of us that work with horses must remember one of their strongest desires is to be in a safe place. The herd animal believes safety is enhanced by a bonding process. We should keep in mind the act of Joining-Up is the invitation to a bonding process. Build on that. Be for your horse what he needs you to be which is kind, non-pain producing and often present. My recent work with wild deer has provided proof of the depth of these recommendations I have outlined here.

8/29/2018: Regarding the horse called Smurf, I would appreciate your opinion, positive or negative, on a thought I had. Another drop in my thimble of knowledge from you. This has to do with the recent lesson on the Uni featuring Smurf, the pony who doesn’t like his rear legs touched. Get a long blanket and roll it up in a configuration that combines a saddle blanket and a bedroll. Put it on his back and secure the "saddle blanket " with a saddle. Let the “bedroll” unroll off his rear end, and allow him to deal with that curtain?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question and suggestion. If readers have a chance, they should acquaint themselves with Smurf and his issue with people, especially farriers, picking up his hind legs.

After the procedures I outline in that lesson, including Join-Up and work with the artificial arm, I often then go to work with plastic bags on a pole, rubbing vulnerable areas until it is acceptable to the horse. Then I use more plastic bags, gathered up and secured with a long line, that can be threaded through a stirrup. One can hold the bags on the line and allow the horse to accustom himself to the bags drawing close to him from behind, making crunchy sounds. If my horse wants to blast away from the bags, I can simply let the line out through the stirrup and not get him in danger. Then I go right back to work with the plastic until the bags on the line are acceptable as well.

My concern with your suggestion is when you write "secure the “saddle blanket” with a saddle." This sounds as if the blanket must stay with the horse. This could run him into the fence or cause an explosion for which I can provide no release. You will want to allow the horse to express himself and find that nothing causes pain. This is how the horse will find you a safe place and the plastic not as bad as he once thought. Please let me know if I have read your suggestion correctly. I am pleased you have submitted it.

8/22/2018: About two months ago I bought a beautiful five-year-old Criollo horse. I have been training and starting many horses but this is my first own horse. She is very good with walking with me and stopping when I stop and she is not scared of anything, literally not scared of anything.
But now she starts pushing with her head and the other day she bit a friend of mine. I don’t feed her from the hand so that is not it either.

I didn’t have the space to do Join-Up, but this week I had and I started Join-Up, but whatever I do she doesn’t go away from me. It looks like she doesn’t have any flight behavior. I threw the rope at her, opened my fingers, pretending like I am an angry bear and nothing works. And of course I don’t want to use a whip or hit her. She is not aggressive towards me at all, she just stands there and doesn’t want to move. I am afraid when I to start her under the saddle that she won’t move either.

I feel like she doesn’t see me as a leader and she is starting to disrespect me. What would work to fix it is a Join-Up. But I can’t do one if she doesn’t want to move away from me. I think you can compare it to a mule or maybe even a donkey.

I really hope you can help me, I really want to be able to work with my first own horse.

Monty’s Answer: Let’s get innovative. I often answer that I would use plastic shopping bags on a stick that might set your animal to flight. But you could test all sorts of things that would motivate her to go away from you. Failing that I would suggest what some Argentine trainers have tried after studying Join-Up with me at Flag Is Up Farms. They have had success with the introduction of another horse, familiar to the horse, that would respond significantly to your gestures to motivate going away. At liberty, in an appropriately sized round pen, send away both horses.

Typically horses will follow another horse and one can get a reasonable Join-Up. After achieving Join-Up, remove the second horse and continue on to the long lines for ground driving your horse. With the use of the lines, one can often induce forward motion with the lines themselves. One must consider the mistakes that might have been made with this horse in its five-year life and often one will find that they have been forced and then given up on going away. There is always a way to get his job done but often it takes an extreme number of ideas and there have been many times when I have racked my brain to overcome this behavioral pattern.

8/15/2018: Your methods have been life changing in my relationship and enjoyment with horses. Thank you!I have a Friesian-cross gelding that is usually very lovely to ride, however, he occasionally has places where he acts very fearful and fractious. My boarding facility is next door to a park that has a trail. He is unusually tense going out and is very much wanting to rush home and throwing a temper when not allowed. How can I tackle this situation of random spooky behavior and rushing home?

Monty’s Answer: Rushing home is often called Barn Sour, which is a misnomer because the horse loves the barn and is not “soured” on it at all. You can help your horse with patience and consistency. Basically you have trained your horse to this habit and it will take a lot of work on your part to re-school your horse’s thoughts about returning to the barn.

You insist you didn’t train your horse to be totally unruly whenever you turn back toward the barn but consider this from the horse’s perspective: upon returning to the barn, work is finished, the cinch is loosened, the saddle removed, feed is put in the box, a bath or a good brushing is administered, after which you are turned out with your buddies to rest and relax and left alone to do what horses do.

From now on, don’t ride back to the barn to do all these activities. Stop before you get to the barn, dismount, loosen the saddle and walk, leading your horse to the barn. Better yet, ride past the barn, stop, dismount, scratch your horse’s neck under the mane, talk and enjoy a few quiet moments, then turn and walk to the barn.

Let the horse stand for a while to cool off before removing the saddle and blanket, before receiving any feed, before being turned loose. Make the “end of the day” reward occur somewhere other than at the barn.

Vary the routine to keep it from becoming boring or something the horse may begin to anticipate like he used to anticipate “charging” back to the barn before. This will likely help with his tenseness and spookiness too. Make it fun for you both.

8/8/2018: I’m totally fan of yours and your methods. I discovered you when I was teenager and today I apply your advice every day since I was 15 years old. I have an important question for you. I work with mules and donkeys. Join-Up is good for mules, I can see, but for donkeys? Is it the same? Or are there differences?

I would be very honored to have an answer from you, like the best gift of my life. I hope you forgive my bad English. And thanks for being in the same world of us.

Monty’s Answer: Donkeys are another question. They sit in a very different position as to behavior than do horses or mules. Donkeys are typically far less sensitive, as flight animals, than either of their counterparts.

One can do Join-Up with donkeys, however the handler should realize that they will be slower and less reactive than their mule might be. I have done Join-Up with zebras, and while they are more sensitive than donkeys, they are far less flight reactive than horses.

When I was very young I was given the assignment to train a donkey baseball team. They literally played baseball while riding donkeys. It was educational to say the least. The audiences found them to be a laugh-a-minute because the donkeys would consistently cause the baseball players a ton of grief. They were unpredictable, had a mind of their own and would consistently do something to cause their rider to find the ground.

While I make these statements, donkey owners should not be dissuaded from doing Join-Up with donkeys. It will be a greater challenge but the donkey, having done Join-Up, will probably be significantly more cooperative than the donkey that did not do a Join-Up. The best thing about a donkey is that they can give birth to mules and Hinnys. When a stallion is crossed with a female donkey, the result is called a Hinny.

8/1/2018: Hi Monty. I have been a huge follower of yours for my whole life. I’m 16 years old and the owner of 13-year-old, 16-hand Warmblood, Apollo.

When I got Apollo, he was on a full Sugar diet which made him loopy and hyper, nearly uncontrollable. I took him off the sugared diet as soon as I could and then took him right back to the beginning, using your Join Up method. It took me a few attempts but eventually he came to me and accepted me as his leader. He’s competed at Hickstead before and placed well.

But Apollo still has a HUGE fear of the horsebox and will spook at absolutely silly things. I’ve tried multiple times but can’t get him to cooperate with the box.
If possible, I’d like information on how to come onto one of your live shows in the UK. I’m an IH Member and it has been a huge dream of mine to meet you.

Monty’s Answer: This is a question very welcome to me. It isn’t often that I have a clear answer for people from other countries and seldom am I prepared to offer them the services of people absolutely at the top of their game to execute the answer.

Since you are a UK resident please accept my invitation to attend one of my demonstrations on the October tour. Please bring the horse in question and if it is not used in the demonstration proper I can agree to work with Apollo.

Not only would I work with him, but I will have a team available to extend the effort. In addition I will have team members present who can outline for you our recommendation for further learning for both yourself and Apollo too.

This is an easy problem to deal with. It is my hope that Apollo will be as easy to change as the question seems to to answer. I look forward to seeing you and Apollo. Please contact the IH team for arrangements to present him to us.

For the rest of our readers who are interested in helping their own horse overcome a fear of the horsebox (or trailer, float or truck), I can advise you to first achieve a Join-Up with your horse. Once done, school your horse with the Dually Halter, fitted correctly, to create a cooperative partnership, moving together.

Then start incrementally to accustom your horse to the elements of the trailer. This could be walking over tarps, bridges and other scary objects that create a fear of the horsebox. I have videos to illustrate this on my Equus Online University and a section in my textbook From My Hands To Yours. Or come learn with me on tour, like Chelsea.

7/25/2018: I sent you a video of our eight-year-old gelding horse named Cricket. This time he did go away and trot a little bit but this was my third time trying this. I think the sweet corn is distracting him but that’s not the only problem (I’m the problem). Sorry for the delay; we had rain and then the video didn’t want to send properly.

Monty’s Answer: Today I viewed your emailed video regarding Cricket and the fact that he does not go away sufficiently to create a good Join-Up. If you are not on the Equus Online University, you should be. Watch the videos on the release of a horse you intend to do Join-Up with. Your release was in the center of the pen and I much prefer it to be near
the fence, across from the gate. We label the gate as 6:00 on an old fashion clock face. Directly across from the gate we put the number 12 which represents the top of the dial. I like releasing my horses at 2:00 because they tend to have ‘gravity’ take them toward 6:00, or the gate.

Cricket is a gentle horse that you released in the middle of the pen and simply walked away. This is not a proper release of a horse you intend to do Join-Up with. Please watch as many Join-Ups as possible on the Equus Online University. Stimulating the horse to go away can often be done by shaking a pole with 4-5 plastic shopping bags attached. It’s a simple process to cause your horse to go away even if the plastic bags are not a sufficient stimulus. One might try a can full of gravel and use the sound to stimulate. A plastic water bottle making a crunchy sound will sometimes do the trick too.

Get innovative, there are ways to send your horse away that you will find successful.

07/18/2018: I have bought a eight-year-old, 13.3 hand Welsh section D. I haven’t ridden for 20 years previous to this, so I’m a little rusty. She had a bad time before I bought her and is so nervous of everything, and will do everything I ask her eventually, I’m not rushing her because I feel it won’t help, but velcro is her nemesis. There is a huge list. She will load and I feel she wants to trust.

She has not been really ridden since I had her, except to be sent away for two weeks to be broken in, so I have read as much as possible about your techniques and used them to the best of my ability. She will now be caught and happy to be groomed, she lets me tack her up and ride her. I just really don’t know how to help her move forward and be confident.

We had a “horse whisper” come to yard and she did everything I asked her on course, then he got a bag on the end of a stick and shoved it onto her face, she obviously reacted badly and he said she’s untrainable and dangerous. I don’t want to let her down, any help gratefully excepted.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. Please let me say that I do not believe any horse on the face of this earth is incapable of being trained. While it’s true I have only worked with approximately 70,000 horses, I can honestly say that every one of them had the capability of learning. If you are not on the Equus Online University, it would be a good place to start as it is far more educational than any words in an email could be. It’s true that the plastic bags on a stick could be an entry point to accepting the sound of velcro. A spritz bottle of water is something I used just yesterday on a horse frightened of hissing sounds.

Velcro should not enter the training program until your horse is comfortable with the plastic bags on a stick. There is however, a way to use plastic bags on a stick and many ways not to use them. The videos are much more demonstrative regarding the use of plastic bags on a stick. My experience yesterday with the spritz bottle was very effective and included the use of a quiet gentle horse who didn’t mind the spritz bottle at all. I stood the two of them next to each other and sprayed the gentle horse many times before adjusting the direction toward the spooky horse. Within 5-10 minutes I could use the spritz bottle on the spooky horse with virtually no negative reaction at all.

Remember the important term, incremental. Start with plastic bags all rolled up on the stick and held in place with rubber bands. First use the stick-only end of the instrument involved. When relaxation is attained, reverse the stick and begin to incrementally open the bags. Use the whither area as a sweet spot to gain entry to those areas sensitive to the plastic bags.

When one has achieved acceptance of the crinkly bags and the hissing spritz bottle, then begin to use the velcro at a distance. Do not place the object on the horse but wait until the sound of the velcro is acceptable. The Online University will be a valuable tool for you in so many lessons having to do with sensitive horses. Videos are far more educational in these individual problems than simple words could ever be. Please keep us informed as to the outcome once you have altered your training.

7/11/2018: One of our ponies, Dizzy, who is a non ridden family member nowadays, exhibits aggressive/defensive behavior only when her head is over the stable door, i.e. ears back and biting at thin air in our general direction as we approach her or even just pass by her stable. She was initially also a nervous mare in all respects but has settled down in all other areas except this one. I’ve tried ignoring this behavior altogether, i.e. avoiding her as much as possible in the stable door scenario and only interacting in the stable or outside the stable.

I’ve tried ignoring it and treating her as I do the other two mares in the family i.e. strokes and other gentle friendly loving interactions at the stable door, but neither of these strategies have made any difference. I seem to be unable to reassure her that no one is going to hurt her when she is standing in that position.

I’m sure she’s been treated inappropriately by people in a previous home, and this is her way of protecting herself. But after three years I owe to her to try to figure this puzzle out and to try to help her overcome this behavior pattern which is based on a past experience that won’t happen again as long as I have breathe in my body!

The problem for me is I don’t know what that past experience was (although we did see the people we bought her from smacking her for pawing at the ground) and I don’t have any ideas on how to change this outcome for her.

Please can you suggest some alternative course of action?

Monty’s Answer: This is a question that I have answered many times, each with slightly different circumstances. The underlying cause of this is that we have domesticated horses for 6,000 years placing them in increasingly shrinking accommodations. Horses become territorial. After all, there was 47 million years when they lived on grassy plains with no human intervention at all.

Imagine the difference to the horse’s brain when at one point they could see as far as the eye could perceive with no interruption to a grassy environment when compared
with today the normal box stall or small corral that we tend to provide for them. It is my opinion that horses incriminate human beings most often when food is involved.

My suggestion is that we should never feed horses while in their normal accommodations. It is far better to remove them from the stable, feed, then bring them back to the stable and let them find the feed already there. In addition, we should not enter the stable during that time when the horse is actually eating. It tends to promote this behavior.

Horses with a “half door” that allows them to put their heads outside the box stall are at elevated risk to develop this territorial behavior. They tend to feel that they have to protect their home and then they often get a slap on the nose for doing what they believe to be a natural act. You see it on a global basis.

Equestrian facilities with large numbers of humans roaming about seem to be a breeding ground for territorial behavior. Equine heads out the door tends to satisfy humans that they are being nice to the horse. This environment actually produces many problems including territorial protection. Please share with us how you implement these suggestions and your outcomes.

7/4/2018: I am an incoming first year college this school year (from the Philippines). I don’t know if this is the right email address I should use to address my very personal and informal way of seeking advice. I also don’t know if you can or will read this lengthy message but anyhow, I’m taking my chances.

I have been reading a lot about you and since then I have always been inspired by your life stories regarding your successes in ranching and expanding acres of your land. I, too, have found an interest in Agricultural-related field of work because I got this big dream to become just like you someday (and to live a life surrounded by beautiful and lush nature).

However, I have been troubled about choosing the right choices for College. In the school that I will be enrolling I have two choices open for me: (1) one is Industrial Engineering and (2) two is Agricultural and Biosystems Engineering. My dilemma is that I think Industrial E. is good because it can help me strengthen my interpersonal and communication skills because it’s what I really lack about and which is also great for starting a business one day and perhaps, I could take an MBA after or so. But this course I think would delay my learnings about Agriculture and it would take me several years to understand Agriculture by then. If so my situation is to take Agricultural and Biosystems E. I might also lose the chance of learning how to integrate myself in business skills. Another thing is that I am also not sure if Agri-BioE is a good course if I have a plan on ranching. I’m not really sure about my future especially that I lack resources if I ever plan on taking further graduate studies. But what do you think about those courses? Do you think they can help me or is there any other way around?

I know decisions like this should come from me but I want to seek from the advices of people who know better so that’s why I’m sending this letter to your known email address I found on your website. I will be patiently anticipating for your wisdom on my personal matter. I’m really sorry for this long email, you can disregard if you think it’s twaddle.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. It is highly likely that you are asking this question of the worst person in the world. When I went off to University, I was in a state of confusion very much like our have outlined for yourself. My university could offer me general agriculture, equine studies, agri-business or biological sciences which included the
behavioral sciences. I was hungry for all of these areas so I made the decision to triple major.

This meant six years of University training rather than four years. Some of my courses worked for two majors instead of just one and that was helpful. Many years after graduating, I was asked to become involved in behavioral sciences at Zurich University in Switzerland. By then my work was well known and my first book was in 6-7 languages and I would be working to quantify a new area of behavioral sciences.
I agreed to conduct courses, write papers and give lecture spots for two years after which I was allowed an honorary doctorate in behavioral sciences. Many people would say ’it’s just an honorary doctorate’. The head of the department at Zurich told me that I could answer that comment by saying, “I got my doctorate the hard way.”

The advice you are seeking from me is impossible for me to process. It is your life and your future. You must make the decision, but I suggest that you set your goals high and get the best education circumstances will allow. What I did worked for me but I don’t consider myself normal. Let us know what conclusions you come to when you make them.

06/27/2018: Knowing your main concern is always for the safety of the horse and rider, what advice would you have when you find yourself involved with a runaway? This can sometimes quickly involve trees, fences, ditches, open barn doors, or any number of hazards. Any thoughts would be of great interest.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question, I think. After 80 years of actively riding, one cannot imagine the number of times that I have faced the runaway situation. Like so many dangerous moments, it is critical one controls pulse rate, thoughts and actions. Everyone wants to pull the reins on a runaway horse. If it is truly a runaway situation, this normally encourages the horse to run faster and farther. One can do much better simply thinking and looking forward with the intention of guiding your direction.

One solution is quite simple. If you have ridden a true runaway horse and lived through it, don’t ride him again. Runaway horses are not fun and are often the precursor to an emergency room visit. If there is any thought that a horse might be predisposed to running away, be sure you are in a relatively small area with substantial fencing and optimal footing. Runaway horses are most dangerous when they come to unacceptable footing. I have seen runaways in parades. These are generally on pavement and most often result in injuries to horse, rider or both.

Most of the circumstances I had while riding a runaway was when I was doing stunt work for motion pictures. We were not always able to judge the horse they put me on but, believe me, we learned to make the necessary tests before an accident occurred. I recall a day when I realized, while making a movie, a runaway was actually beneficial as far as the director was concerned. I learned to relax, loosen the rein and attempt to read the environment I was to confront ahead of me. The horse that is harshly dealt with by the rider will tend to run away further and faster. It is my recommendation no one less than an all out professional should ride a horse that has any tendency to run away. Life is too short to make decisions other than I am recommending.

6/20/2018: I have a horse who has developed a bad cough over the last few months and I have been working with my vet to treat him, he has had approximately 14 needles over the last three weeks and still has more to come. He is really over it and I would love your advice for anything I could do to help him know I’m trying to help him. Both today and yesterday when giving him his intramuscular needle he turned and slightly bared his teeth at me and he isn’t a nasty horse at all so I really don’t want him hating me. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. This is an area that is very difficult to negotiate without causing your horse to distrust. One recommendation is to allow someone else to produce pain while you just rub and produce no pain at any time. Another factor I recommend is the element of distractibility. I recommend all sorts of distractions not unlike a doctor’s office would do for the human child.

A nurse flashing a toy, some sound in the room, lights switching off and on, there are hundreds of small distractions that tend to lessen the sensitivities of the nervous system. One can play with this depending upon the environment available and you might come up with distractions I haven’t even thought of.

There is far less pain involved in these procedures than one tends to give credence to. You know yourself that the tiny sting of a needle is often barely perceptible to someone who has regular injections. Mind over matter is the answer to this problem. The slapping of the neck before an intramuscular injection is introduced specifically for that reason. I have confidence, given this recommendation, you will come up with a long list of distractions you can employ with your horse.

6/13/2018: Some trainers believe it’s very disrespectful for the horse to turn away from you in the round pen. They insist the horse turn inward.

Monty’s Answer: There are many people dealing with horses who agree with the assertion that a horse turning away from you in the round pen is disrespectful. For me, for a human to make this decision is absolutely disrespectful to Equus the flight animal. If a student of equine behavior stops for just a moment to think about this scenario they will quickly realize that the flight animal flees from danger keeping his tail pointing toward the danger with virtually every step.

If the horse stops and turns toward you and then changes direction, it is being trained by you or encouraged by you to allow him the latitude of this move. When letting the horse express his flight mode, allowing him to go away, it is my opinion that it is imperative the human encourages the turn by eyes-on-eyes, sending the horses head away from you and encouraging his departure. This reserves the internal turn for a time when the human desires the horse to come in to them.

This action follows, if done properly, the full complement of conversation between horse and human which is essential when encouraging the horse to want to come to the human being. The person who believes the internal turn is desirable has likely never tried it my way.

Also, when the horse turns away from you to change directions, he cannot see you for just a couple of strides. Coming out of this turn builds trust in your horse that you have not caused any reason to be untrustworthy. Thirdly, remember that after achieving Join-Up with a horse, I next work with him on two lines in the driving position from the ground. Asking the horse to turn inward to change directions would cause him to be wrapped in the lines.

One should remember my Join-Ups go back well over 70 years and I guarantee you I have tried them in every way possible. Make the test yourself, if you don’t mind compromising the future of horses that are encouraged to make the internal turn. It will produce a horse less likely to do a good Join-Up.

6/6/2018: I live in Victoria Australia, and last weekend a lady who was out riding alone on a bush trail in the high country of Victoria near Mansfield failed to return to the camp area where she had left her vehicle and horse trailer. She and her horse survived four nights in freezing conditions and were located together yesterday morning. Apparently she had suffered some kind of event leading to loss of memory and disorientation. Her family said she was a very competent and knowledgeable horsewoman and this came as shock to them.

What I consider amazing is that her faithful horse stayed by her side and she said when she tried to sleep under a bed of dry wooden branches he would nudge her awake each morning.He could easily have wandered back to the campsite as horses always know where to head for home. However he was so loyal he stayed put and probably made it easier for the spotter plane as he is chestnut and thus would not camouflage easily.

I think the media said the horse’s name is Depict. He deserves a medal! What are
your thoughts?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for this thought provoking question. My first reaction is to say that this lady is deserving of being considered a knowledgeable horse woman. The circumstances allow me to believe this lady regularly found a lot more to congratulate this horse for than she did to discipline her horse for. I don’t know the age of the horse but my guess would be that it was not a youngster. This horse had settled into the belief that this human being could be reasonable and even supportive instead of a pain-producing predator.

There are many stories of animals assisting humans in a time of need. Primarily, however, these stories involve another predator. The dog and the cat make up the highest count and one must agree that a lot of that has to do with the numbers of pets. Over the centuries however, horses were with humans in a much higher numbers than they are today. It is my opinion that flight animals have had fewer reasons to accept the human as a partner. Because the flight animal would become subservient when dealt with violently, the human tended to activate our predatory tendencies and thus the term “breaking” became synonymous with taming the horse.

Obviously this lady found ways to create a partnership with her horse, instead of a slave and master relationship. She should get a gold medal from somebody because horses cannot lie. Her horse cannot lie. Her horse perceived her as a friend and set aside the fact that she was a predator.

5/30/2018: I recently acquired a six-year-old mustang mare. I was told she trailered well, but she walked right up to the trailer and stopped. She didn’t act scared, but when we tried again she went right up, stopped and sat with her rump right on the ground. We chuckled about it and after a few seconds she snorted, got up and walked right in. She does this every time. While this doesn’t hurt her, it would be nice if she would walk in without sitting first. Any suggestions would be helpful. I do not know much about her past; she’s a rescue.

Monty’s Answer: It sounds as though you could have a very funny act on your hands. She is obviously quite stressed with the prospect of loading and traveling. This could be the result of negative experiences in her past. To assist her, you will need repeatedly to create situations that will be comfortable so as to reduce the stress level by reinforcing in her mind the belief that trailers and travel can be safe and comfortable.

Apparently your mare has figured out how to control the situation. I would school your mare to respect the Dually training halter. Once this is accomplished, she will choose to load without sitting down. The Dually halter is designed to allow the horse to train itself to come up off the halter willingly when a request is made. There is a specific set of procedures that must be accomplished before the horse is likely to act in a cooperative manner.

My Equus Online University and DVDs describing procedures are extremely helpful, but there is no substitute for practice in becoming proficient with any piece of equipment with which you intend to train a horse. I often say that the Dually halter is no better than the hands that hold it, and the way to get the hands better is to have them practice its use.

I recommend strongly that every horseperson work with easy, cooperative horses before progressing to those more difficult. As one becomes better with the easy horses, each procedure will tend to educate both you and your muscles to make the right moves in order to achieve the desired result.

5/23/2018: I have been a follower of yours for a long time but a number of years ago my life changed – having horses was not possible for a while. Recently two mules have come into my life. They need much handling – their attitude is not bad but they don’t do much. Do you do Join-Up the same with mules as horses? Is the answer I’m looking for found on your Equus Online University?

Monty’s Answer:

Thank you very much for your question. What this communication caused was for me to realize that we don’t have a lesson concerning mules on our Equus Online University. Being a good friend of Dr. Robert Miller for about six decades now, it’s time I asked him to choose someone well versed in mule behavior to contribute a meaningful lesson on our Online University.

It’s true that I do Join-Up with mules, and even donkeys, in much the same way that I do with horses. But please note, it’s not exactly the same. It is my distinct opinion mules are significantly more intelligent than horses. This being the case, any procedure must be accomplished in the “mule world,” which is not exactly the same as the horse world. Mules may take longer to respond to certain procedures. On the other hand, they may capture other procedures much faster than any horse would.

Mules are hybrids, which means there is an uplift in the areas where hybrid vigor increases intelligence. They have a certain understanding for their ability to survive. Mules hurt themselves about once for every ten times a horse produces self-inflicted wounds. A horse has enormous capacities for memory when compared to the human being. There is seemingly nothing that a mule ever forgets. Breaking a mule using conventional methods has historically been considered extremely difficult. The traditionalists would suggest they simply need to be forced more vigorously than the horse does.

When I was growing up I remember trainers saying something like this: “Do you know how to break a mule? The first thing you have to do is get a 2×4 board. You hit them between the ears with it just to get their attention and then you proceed to break the mule.” My position is that nothing could be further from the truth.

Mules have been broken with violence for centuries. That doesn’t make it as effective as non-violent methods. It simply means most trainers thought it was necessary. A mule reasoned with, and brought along in a non-violent fashion, will consistently be a better partner and a more effective assistant for any tasks attempted. Join-Up works with mules and we will attempt to explore the nuances for my Online University.

In the mean time, use my methods but be sure to take a breath, wait a bit and then move forward when you observe your mule understanding what it is that you are asking it to do. Look carefully for how to give positive consequences. A rub between the eyes is good. Also, the act of ceasing the work when it’s acceptable, will cause the mule to quickly do the work requested so that they have the opportunity to stop the work. We must choose the right trainer for our Online University to help bring these principles forward as soon as we possibly can. Stay in touch with us. We will make this happen.

5/16/2018: I have a question about my mare. She was started and has been entirely trained on gentle methods of Monty and his similars. We always do some degree of pen work to Join-Up before a ride. Sometimes it takes nothing, she is already so attentive there is no need to drive and we begin our work for the day. Sometimes, particularly when in heat, we have to do a full Join-Up session. I watch for the ear, the licking, the head low. She usually takes very little time to begin responding, and when I allow her in she trots in, head low, super respectful, then raises her head (not high, just to normal carriage which is about my eyeline) and lets out a huge snort. It is unsettling, almost startling, and at first sight seems defiant and dominant, but then she continues to breathe heavily from the exercise. Is this a normal reaction from her being out of breath or an aggressive act?

Monty’s Answer: Your question comes on the heels of several Q&As that have come in recently and also quite similar to circumstances involving current work that I am doing with various breeds and disciplines. I have pondered your words carefully and I have made a conclusion you are attempting to alter the communication system of our four legged equine friends. I am convinced that you are reading too much into certain behaviors your mare exhibits. Please remember that I haven’t seen your circumstances, and I am communicating based on your words and without sure and certain knowledge.

For much of my life I have ushered myself through periods of time where I formed the same conclusions you have outlined in your question. Looking back over those years I now realize if I simply go back to work and investigate my own gestures and my own behavioral responses I generally find that Equus produces the communication system they have perfected for 50 million years. There is no question that every animal has its own personality, its own likes, dislikes and idiosyncrasies unique to them. Please go back to your mare with the idea that she is the only one that is right in this scenario and then work on your communications efforts to achieve the desired behavior.

When you say “Sometimes it takes nothing, she is already so attentive there is no need to drive and we begin our work for the day” it is interesting to me that you have unilaterally decided that there is no need to drive and then you say circumstances are less than perfect. Unilateral decisions by the two legged human as to what the horse requires is usually a mistake. One should work hard to decide what Equus responds perfectly to and then repeat that, just as the book reads. When there is a unique behavior, then take a hard look at alerting the typical required communications efforts. The horse is always right. It is the human who needs to meet the horse’s needs.

As these questions come in, it causes me to want to go to every location described and see this critically unique behavior. I do a lot of that as you well know, traveling well over 100,000 miles per year. But the number of times there is actually critically unique behavior is virtually zero. Of course, it’s not possible for everyone to work with hundreds of horses before asking a question, but remember I had to do thousands of horses and come to my conclusions, for there were no humans with any information about concepts that it seems were never discovered.

5/9/2018: For about four weeks I am the owner of a 4-year-old Icelandic Horse (gelding) named Tívar. His first owner told me, that Tívar has grown up almost “free”, i.e. he had only contact to humans when he was fed, controlled by the veterinarian or when his hooves were done by the smith.

During the first week I could work with him without any problems: I could put the halter on him and go for a walk, brush him or put a blanket on his back, he did everything very well and in my opinion even had some fun during this work and had no negative experience. Then, suddenly, two weeks ago, he started running away from me and doesn’t want to put on his halter any more. Encouraged by your video with Lauki, I decided to do some Join-Up with him (for about half an hour), but unfortunately had no success. Did I do wrong or too long or too short? Are there any alternatives to convince him to work again together with humans?

I’m looking forward to your answer and thank you very much for your work with horses and humans!

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. Please understand that it is my belief that to blame a horse for anything is like blaming the night for being dark. Horses simply do not say okay to anything and then arbitrarily change their mind to say it’s not okay. Something happened to cause the horse to exhibit this behavior. Even if your horse is a miracle compared to the billions before him, we will do best when we live by that theory.

The second part of this equation is the Join-Up. It is my theory that all horses will do Join-Up. When they don’t, we are doing something wrong. I haven’t observed your procedure so it would be wrong of me to speculate as to what you are doing wrong. Study the gesture language. Your eyes, your fingers, your shoulders, the direction you travel and your speed of travel create the centerpiece of the gestures.

I predict this horse can be a very good professor for you. When you get it right he will get it right as well. This is one of those situations when you want to see the problem your horse has, look in the mirror. I would love to think that I know that you are the problem. I don’t know that, but what I do know for certain is that the best way to fix the problem is to make the assumption that you are the problem. The horse will do the rest.

My textbook From My Hands to Hands and Equus Online University were created to cover all these concepts in simple words and helpful videos, any student of the horse will find valuable. I am glad you took the first step to ask the questions. I hope you will be a good student of horses and study from my lifetime of training horses in the absence of violence.

5/2/2018: What are the top six lessons you learned in life?

Monty’s Answer:

1.
If I could travel back to 1942, at the age of 7, I wish I could have treated my father the same as I now would a horse. It means I wouldn’t blame him for anything and I would attempt to discover how he was treated as a child. Perhaps I could have helped him lose his desire to act out in a brutal fashion toward me.

While a primary school teacher saved me from acting out with violence against him, I wish I could have learned faster how to process this disastrous childhood at an earlier age than I eventually accomplished. There was great pain, physical and mental in those early years. I needed to be more cerebral.

2.
If I could travel back to 1949, I would tell myself the world is simply not going to change overnight, you must commit the balance of your life to making the changes you perceive as absolutely necessary to be fair with the horses, I could have saved myself a lot of pain and suffering expecting a more rapid change than ever was possible.

3.
If I could travel back to 1960 and tell myself to be more patient with a certain filly, I might have altered in a positive way my overall success rate. I know now that she was shouting to the rooftops that she wanted to be a world champion. She was very sensitive and made mistakes that I couldn’t seem to forgive her for.

Today I know, had I given her quiet opportunities to learn before putting pressure on her to demand success she would have lived up to her own aspirations. She is long since dead and her owner died a few years ago. I owe both of them a huge apology for denying this filly her rightful championship.

4.
If I could travel back to 1972, I would tell myself that all business associates are not necessarily honest and loyal. I could have much earlier realized a situation seeming to be disastrous at that time could end up being the best thing that ever happened to me. We all need to learn to use lemons to make lemonade.

5.
As I travel back to an overview of my entire career, I only wish I could have learned earlier in life that the harder I work, the luckier I get. I remember clearly competitors saying that I got good horses because I was simply lucky. It took a long time for me to learn to strike lucky from my lexicon.

6.
If I could travel back to my first days as a mentor for the next generation, I would emphasize earlier and stronger the need to create goals. Put them “out there” where they seem to be unreachable and then put those arms to work reaching for them. No goals, no gold. Sincere goals will fuel any career to a successful conclusion.

4/25/2018: An article in one of our daily newspapers about modern pentathlon made me angry. I am wondering if an experiment would improve the horse-rider-partnership of the sportsmen and women.

One discipline of the Modern Pentathlon is Show Jumping. The horse-rider team is drawn by lots. The rider has 20 minutes to get to know his partner. They get to know each other riding in the warm up parkour for 20 minutes. In the article the horse of a famous German sportier is blamed two times for the failure of the rider in the competition. The horse is said to be “bad” or “dumb.” I did some investigation about the training method for riders in the modern pentathlon and found a video which the sportswomen is interviewed, holding “her” horse. The horse continuously pushes her with his head which she does not correct. That tells me that there yet there is no horse-rider relation in terms of respect. And I could hardly find more than two times the word TRUST in the articles I read.

My question is: what if these riders would use the 20 minutes to do a Join-Up with their horse instead of riding? Or do a Join-Up and make the riding shorter, looking much more for a good communication than for the right point to jump off ? Would you go into an experiment the next time you come to Berlin in a training facility of modern pentathlon riders, to find out together with them if Join-Up before the competition would change their chances for a good ride? I would organize everything and make a request. I do not know anybody in this area but I will find them and I am convinced that I would be good in convincing them if you agree to give it a try.

Monty’s Answer: Welcome to my world! You speak with good sense. It is situations such as you have described which constitutes a huge percentage of my life. Let me tell you a few of the things I hear most often when I act to solve problems such as you have pointed out.

“We cannot be seen to accept the concepts of any one individual.”

“We do not have time for this ‘namby pamby’ so-called horsemanship.”

“These are the rules, like ’em or leave ’em, I did not make them.”

“It’s as fair for one as it is for another. We are looking for the best.”

Once in a while I find a logical human being who will listen to my reasoning and sometimes even act upon it. Yesterday I met several individuals at a Dressage Convention and I would estimate about 50 percent of them attempted to see the points I made.

Remembering back to those first years after meeting The Queen, I was operating at less than 10 percent who would give me any consideration whatsoever. We’re getting better, and at 83 I am still DEMONSTRATING my concepts, not just talking about the issues.

We are making progress. There is no question that it is too slow, but I refuse to grab a whip and try to force people to think my way. I would work very hard to make your idea come to pass. Continue to communicate and we will do all we can to comply with your wishes.

4/18/18: Okay, here is an off the wall question. How do you deal with a spouse or partner that doesn’t care for horses but that is your passion?

Monty’s Answer: One must realize the enormous percentage of husbands who conversely have to put up with wives who love their horses more than their husbands. Yours is a unique situation! I would suggest that you do what you can to advise your wife how much better the horses are than a collection of girlfriends. You might also suggest you could become interested in hunting which would cause you to travel the world, or that you’ve taken up motorcycle riding. Women often find these hobbies unattractive.

Horses are wonderful animals and you could choose to educate your partner to their lovable nature, by purchasing a small foal for her next birthday, the cutest foal possible. If she doesn’t fall in love with the foal, think long and hard about finding another partner! Of course I am joking, but wouldn’t I tend to see it through your eyes instead of hers? Good luck, keep me posted!

4/11/2018: What do you suggest for horses that throw their heads while being ridden? The traditional remedy is a tie down, which like the buck stopper, is inert until he bumps into it. I suspect you may have another idea?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. My quick response is that the problem is with the hands that hold the reins, generally speaking. The type of bit and all that is connected to it may very well have something to do with the problem. It is generally the horse’s desire to get rid of pressure or pain. There are many examples of what I do in my textbook From My Hands To Yours. To answer this question fully
would take a full chapter, but, believe me, it is not tie downs or any other form of restraint.

Please understand that there are many physical issues that are potentially at work here. Allergies to pollen, inflammations of mouth, ears, or even eye irritation can contribute to head tossing. Be complete in your investigation, eliminating traditional pain and pressure.

4/4/2018: We have two horses that we purchased this past fall, they are both very good horses, since we are new to horses. One is Cooper, a nine year old, and Tank a thirteen year old. Cooper is very good with our Eme who is eleven, she cleans his feet, leads good and just general getting familiar with a horse. Tank is the boss, but also very good, it is harder for him to focus, but he is very smart. We have trouble with his hoof cleaning, he does very good for both back hooves, but gives trouble with front. We ask, he gives but puts back down, this goes on for a time, then he finally gives, do you have any suggestions that would help, some say lunging, maybe turning in tight circle? What would you suggest? Tank knows what we are asking, it’s like he’s a little kid and just doesn’t want to have his feet cleaned.
Help!

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your inquiry. I answer this question just two days after I was presented with a horse who behaved exactly as you suggest. My recommended procedure for this action is to fit a Dually Halter properly, and then cause the horse to learn how the Dually works. There are many videos available and one comes with each Dually.

My website is complete with Dually halter hoof handling videos. I would pick up the foot, and allow the horse to put it back on the ground if he chooses. It is then that I would tighten the halter and cause the horse to back up six or eight good steps. I would then ask him forward to the same spot and repeat the action.

When I do this the horses usually continue this behavior for three or four repetitions and then they decide it’s better to simply hold the foot up for you to attend to. No one needs to be angry and the handler need not stop the horse from the unacceptable behavior but the consequences are negative if he chooses to misbehave.

3/28/2018: Do you think it is beneficial to ride bareback?

Monty’s Answer: The better riders we are, the better chance our horses have to perform the tasks we request. Riding bareback is one very good way to learn to be a better rider. I rode bareback extensively as a child and feel that it was helpful in training me to be constantly aware of the position of my horse’s body and his movements as he negotiated turns, lead changes and stops.

I am a firm believer that if we are to be good riders we should learn to ride both bareback and with a saddle. I further believe that we should at least know the basic principles for the correct riding in as many styles of saddle as possible: Western, English hunt seat, dressage, Park Seat, Australian stock saddle, even Argentinean gaucho saddle.

Knowledge is something none of us can have enough of; I even recommend that young riders use a bareback pad at some stage in their education, as it is quite helpful for leg position.

3/21/2018: I was recently taken to a racetrack here in south FL. I was stunned to see that after a race a chain is placed from the halter across the upper gum under the upper lip. Is this necessary for safe handling of these exquisite animals?

Monty’s Answer: The racing industry has many practices that I would change. The use of the chain over the gums is utilized most of the time when leading. I believe there are better ways to do it without a painful chain. But I would put the chain down the list from many other practices, including the use of a whip.

I believe correct schooling with a Dually Training halter would negate the need for this chain. But that requires a handler take the time and effort to educate himself, which is a lack in the racing industry.

3/14/2018: I have a two-year old filly who from birth has chewed manes and tails (her mother’s, those of other broodmares, other foals, etc.). I have tried all the old taste deterrent remedies – nothing works. As a last resort, I put her with my old broodmares (who stand no nonsense!), but she even found one of them gentle enough to allow her to eat her lovely tail up to the dock.

I have tried homeopathy. I am contemplating ‘remote’ healing. She is the sweetest little pony with no other vices. I am tearing my hair out now! Now I have had to separate her, which is arguably the worst thing to do, but she is eating her way through my herd and could cause herself internal damage. Any constructive comments would be most welcome.

Monty’s Answer: This is a major problem on most breeding operations. Over the years we have had problems with tail eating. I think it was about 10 years ago one of my grooms from Mexico created a preparation that was very successful.

He used the hottest chilies the they grow in Mexico. He mixed them with cooking oil then put the mixture in a blender and chopped it very fine. Using a glove, they rubbed it on the tails every day. We never had tail eating since that time.

If your pony can eat this mixture then you have to take him to Mexico where everybody eats such hot food! If you don’t have Mexican chilies you could use cayenne pepper. It is just as effective but makes a bit more mess. But chilies are nice and clean.

Many people believe that chewing tails may indicate physiological needs rather than behavioral challenges such as boredom from being confined in small enclosures and unable to exercise freely. At my place, Flag Is Up Farms, we put out salt blocks and feed a mix that contains minerals necessary for healthy horses. I encourage horse owners to ask their vets about the best mix for their horses in their locale. There is no reason for this being a dietary problem if your horse’s diet is balanced.

3/7/2018: In 1997 you were in my college’s round pen at West Oxfordshire college. Well I learned enough from that one day to keep me mostly in one piece. Until the day was in the wrong place, wrong time, with one very grumpy stallion who decided I’d make a good football as I was turning him out in a round pen.

Well I have a opportunity to get back to the what I love, fixing up injured horses and stating young ones, but I have a few practical how’s to get worked out and the small issues of flash backs every time I see a round pen. I walk OK sometimes have a degree in falling over. So was wondering how the ! I get to where I want to be, could you think of a way I can do Join-Up, Follow-Up and get a horse tacked up and accept the spooky hedge monster etc.? I’m in the UK and have been asked by a dear friend to set up and run a 80 box rehabilitation centre next year in Wiltshire. I have been looking at your courses at Kelly’s but I have the opportunity to get over to America too.

So ideas on how to go forward would be much appreciated. In the mean time I’m working on the going in and out of round pens.

Monty’s Answer: Your question and your history puts a deep fear within me that I know nothing about what you can actually do physically nor do I know much about what would be required of you. Any courses you could take would be helpful. I have courses here in California involving wild, remedial, and normal horses.

To give you advice it would be absolutely essential for me to know more about you based on what I can see with my own eyes. No horse enters a round pen and does his best if he is frightened, physically challenged or psychologically challenged. We need to be sure that our horses are safe and we need that for our humans too.

It would be foolhardy for me to be giving you recommendations until I have visual proof of what you can do and how the horses respond to you. These elements are absolutely the same for everybody I advise. It is very important that a trainer is in the right frame of mind, to be able to cause a horse to learn.

02/28/2018: I’m pleased to say I have had great success using Join-Up and your halter in the range of horses which include Polocrosse and Warmbloods for dressage. I have a dilemma however with a Thoroughbred three-year-old racehorse who is with a young trainer (recently set up from overseas in Victoria, Australia) who is experiencing trouble at the barriers. This I believe I can manage with your halter.

But my dilemma is with my desire to Join-Up with this filly. As the syndicate manager, I don’t want however to have the owners feel that I may have interfered and taken “the edge” off the filly’s desire to run.

I know you have had a lot of experience with gallopers. Presuming the horse has the ability, do you believe there is any risk in reducing the desire to gallop through Join-Up?

No doubt a silly question as I believe I know your answer but would appreciate your insight.

Monty’s Answer: As I answer this question I find myself at Santa Anita Racecourse in California. I am here to deal with an individual horse who has had a great deal of trouble with people. Today proved to be a celebration for me as he performed so as to impress the trainer, his ride and certainly myself, as he negotiated his morning session.

It has been my privilege to work with hundreds of champion racehorses globally. For me, Lomitas and Alleged head the list. Each of them was regarded among the best on earth. Both came to me with deep issues of trust for those of us with two legs instead of four. They ultimately performed admirably.

More to the point of answering your question, I believe I have clearly proven that the relaxed horse and the one who feels safe is far more likely to perform than the horse who is agitated, hyper-sensitive and clearly feels they are in trouble under the circumstances of competitive racing.

Join-Up® has been the centerline of my work with virtually every Thoroughbred brought to me for various remedial problems. Please do not concern yourself about Join-Up taking away from the competitive spirit. It simply allows sensitive horses to conserve their energy and use it in their natural desire to run.

02/21/2018: I live in Australia, where we have mobs of kangaroos roaming freely across the countryside. These animals are so well camouflaged as to be practically invisible until you’re upon them, whereupon they suddenly start hopping away in all directions. As you can imagine, there are very few horses that will tolerate this behavior without shying to varying degrees!

Is there some way I could at least minimize my horse’s shying to the roos, so I don’t come flying off her each time? Would Join-Up help her to be more relaxed overall? Her big shies in response to the roos are unsafe, as well as unpleasant, for both me and her… and likely also for the roos.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your inquiry. It is true that I have had this question come to me several times while in Australia. Without the knowledge of where you live it’s difficult for me to pinpoint my suggestion, but I will attempt to give you a general answer in hopes that you can find a location similar to what I describe.

Much of my time has been spent in the Sydney area. Outside of the city, there are many properties which are complete with horses, mostly for family pleasure. Since there is a lot of open country to ride in, these riders find it wonderful to ride through the eucalyptus trees and over the rolling foothills around the Sydney area.

The circumstance you describe happens all too often for these generally novice riders. My recommendation to them is to find an animal park where kangaroos are often on display. There are many parcels around Sydney where kangaroos are predictably present much of the time. I suggest that one attempt to get as close as possible to a number of kangaroos and ride for sustained periods of time so that your horse is allowed to see the movements, the smells and the actions of these unusual creatures.

All horses are neophobic, and yet they can become accustomed to almost anything so long as it doesn’t cause them pain or frighten them because of the fact that they are a “new look.” There are many areas around Melbourne and certainly between the two cities many properties have heavy counts of a predictable nature where kangaroos are concerned.

I helped one young girl in Perth. She liked to ride her horse through the grape vineyards. During the season when the grapes were ripening, the kangaroos were plentiful. I had her ride a safe distance during these weeks when kangaroos seemed to be everywhere. Only gradually did I recommend that she ride her horse closer to the kangaroos. Eventually she could ride straight through the grapevines with kangaroos popping out everywhere.

Incrementally accustom your horse to the sight of kangaroos. Horses will get used to almost anything.

2/14/2018: Just retired from military. I was able to take advantage of one of your sponsored Join-Up seminars, Horse Sense and Healing, thanks so much. Getting back into horses now, getting one for my daughter and one for myself. Even though I am purchasing older, well broke horses initially, my intent is still Join-Up with them initially and accomplish ground work before ever mounting/riding to hopefully establish that friendship first. How often should I Join-Up with them initially and/or should that depend on how we are “communicating”? Also, say months or even years down the road when things are going well, is it still smart to Join-Up every once in a while? Thanks so much!

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for getting back to me and it is gratifying that you are continuing to see value in working with horses. The fact is that all horses have different personalities just like people, so it does matter that we become flexible too. A few Join-Ups, where the horse is concerned, is generally enough. I find that three or four often does the trick.

That doesn’t mean its enough for you. We humans often take longer to learn than the horses do. It is clear that you are on the right path when you ask the question, should Join-Up be reinforced periodically. Under horse training circumstances, what you are suggesting is absolutely true. Where post traumatic stress is the issue, then Join-Up should be accomplished far more often for the person than the horse.

Please continue your quest to get better with horses and communicate with me as events progress.

2/7/2018: I purchased a six-year-old Arabian mare 1.5 years ago. I did not realize it at that point but she has obviously had learned to continue to pull until something breaks when she is tied especially at a hitch rail. I think it starts as panic but she is smart and does not stop until something gives.

She learned to break bungee cords. A Blocker tie ring and tying overhead gets me a short period of standing still and some work has improved her reaction when something pulls on her head in general. My goal for her is to be my primary trail horse but I am looking for a kinder method than just tie her solid and hope she doesn’t hurt herself.

Do you have any material to purchase that addresses this issue or any thoughts? I have not addressed this before. I primarily use your methods and John Lyons methods when working with my horses. I have started two from scratch so this is really only my fifth horse in 30 years of riding. I am in Southern Indiana if there is someone in this area you would recommend.

Monty’s Answer: Virtually everyone who has owned a horse, has, at some time, experienced an episode where the horse pulls back when tied. If your horse successfully breaks free several times, she is likely to develop a phobia where she feels compelled to pull back when tied. Certain activities are more likely to evoke pulling back; loud, sudden noises or movements in the horse’s environment, or tying the horse in the trailer with the back door open.

Horses are naturally into-pressure animals; the behavior your mare is exhibiting is to move into the pressure she feels on her poll. Your goal is to re-train her to yield to pressure without causing unnecessary pain or fear. I would suggest your first step should be to school her with the Dually Halter until she is comfortable moving off the pressure.

You will need a solid smooth wall, 8-feet high and 24-feet wide, with a tie ring in the center of the wall approximately seven feet high. Attached to the tie you will have a thick bungee rope (such as ‘The Leader,’ available through tack shops). You need to create a D-shaped enclosure with round pen panels attaching to either end of the wall, approximately 10-12 feet from the wall at the center point.

Take your mare into the enclosure; attach her to the bungee rope and exit, closing the round pen panel after you. If your mare chooses to pull back, the bungee rope will stretch approximately 10 feet, at which point she will bump her hindquarters on the panels and be unable to go further back. The bungee rope will continue to exert a gentle pressure on her head until she steps forward, releasing the pressure. She is in a safe environment to be able to experiment with the pressure and learn to move forward and accept being tied.

The environment I have briefly described for you is depicted in great detail in my book From My Hands To Yours. You will find diagrams and photos as well as a detailed explanation, and please also feel free to contact us for details of training programs that we offer here in California. Also I have a series on my Equus Online University that covers this issue: https://montyrobertsuniversity.com/training/2031188870

Pull-back horses can be extremely dangerous as when they panic, they can hurt themselves and others, so it is imperative to keep yourself safe and create a safe environment for your mare. Good luck, and please contact us with any further questions you may have.

1/31/2018: I am from Australia and have been looking after an abandoned Brumby foal. He had fallen into a hole and his mother had left him. A friend rescued him and gave him to a non horse family. We looked after him while they were on vacation. He is now 5 weeks old. My question is, he was getting much bigger and stronger in the weeks he was with us and starting rearing and testing us.

He is bottle fed but starting to drink his formula from a bucket. I’ve tried to mix hard feed in with milk powder to get him to start eating hard feed. He is also eating grass on his own. He is very handled and not scared at all, and has had a halter on a few times and handled it well. He is feeding every 2-3 hours and sleeps immediately after for an hour or so. Through the night he feeds every 4 hours or so. He is kept in a grassy house yard away from the herd and can’t even really see them. Photos attached.

Would it be best to let him into my herd to learn right from wrong and bring him back in much later, or do we continue hand rearing and teaching him discipline ourselves? I feel like he will be a handful and dangerous for a non horse family.

Thank you. No one really knows what to do with him here in Australia!

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your inquiry regarding the Brumby foal. I must speak with you in general terms, as I am unable to see the specific behavior of the foal in question. It is however clear to me that the foal has already begun to feel more human than horse. If we are to raise a foal such as this to be as normal as possible, we must take every opportunity to allow them the company of horses more than with humans.

Please be aware of the need to eliminate food coming from the human body. I have had good luck when I was able to find a nurse mare that would accept a foal like this. This is not easy to accomplish and I get the feeling from reading your words that it would be virtually impossible for you. The next best results I have received was when I could allow the foal to mix with other mares and foals, and take nourishment from a goat. I have found that if one can fabricate a bit of a stand for the goat, the foal can nurse at about the same level as a mare’s udder would be.

I have trained goats to get a bit of sweet feed when they jump up on the stand and enter a small hallway designed to keep them from falling off the stand. These are not easy to accomplish but the difference they make in the adult horse is dramatic. The male foal that is reared by humans will virtually always be an aggressive adult very dangerous for humans to work with. A female foal will also be dangerous, but not as bad as the aggression shown by the male.

Reducing the contact of humans should be your primary objective. While it is acceptable to school to the halter and do some leading, it is not acceptable to enter the social existence of these young horses. They should be given the right to be of their own species and not take on the thought that they are part human.

1/24/2018: Why does my horse sweat in the trailer? I’m wondering if this is just something that will work itself out over time. I have an eight-year-old quarter horse mare that we’ve had about 1.5 years (2 MN riding seasons). She’s a basically calm horse and is calm whenever I take her out of the trailer.

I have a three-horse slant trailer (gooseneck). I have probably hauled her almost 50 times since we’ve had her. I’m a very cautious hauler – no sudden starts or stops, gentle turns, so I’m positive it’s not my driving. She will readily lead or send into the trailer. Initially, she would paw, even when in with other horses. She has progressed quite a bit.

She would paw upon loading and when you stopped. I ignored it. The pawing is essentially gone, rarely, upon returning home after being hauled alone, she’ll paw a couple of times. Though appearing calm and collected in the trailer, the first summer she would not eat hay during travel and would sweat going and coming.

This past summer she has progressed to eating hay while being transported with other horses and eventually, when hauled alone. She no longer sweats when hauled with at least one other horse. Towards the end of my MN riding season (2017), she would not sweat going alone, but would be sweaty when we arrived home. Last outing….got home….good and sweaty.

She’s quiet and relaxed when I go into the trailer to unload her, no rushing and is content to stand there with me. I can move her forward and back, stop her and bring her forward… all willing and relaxed. Unloading, she steps off (backs) sensibly, and carefully. As I have seen so many steps in the right direction,

Do I just need to be patient?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. Congratulations on the description I have read because it seems to be exactly what I would recommend. It pleases me that you have moved incrementally and it seems you have touched on just about every potential solution with patience and sensible actions. It is clear to me that your horse enjoys company traveling.

I have dealt with horses more severe than yours by introducing a small animal of some kind to be company. A pet goat or a sheep will often live nearby and would provide welcome company while transporting. Obviously there is an added element which sounds a bit unnecessary because you have done what appears to be a pretty good job of solving problem yourself.

1/17/2018: Hello, I have a 24-year-old part Morgan mare that I haven’t had for quite a year yet. When I got her she was like a giant puppy dog, always following us around and nuzzling us and wanting affection. It seems lately she wants nothing to do with me. She does not come to me like she used to and if I go up to her she’ll typically walk away from me.

We recently moved her to a large pen, maybe an acre in size and I don’t think she likes it. Before that she was in a 360 acre pasture with a herd of cows. She has always been the only horse at my place. Is she mad at me for keeping her in a pen? I don’t know what else could be going on. Please help.

I am a new horse owner, had a horse 20 years ago but none since. Any help would be appreciated.

Monty’s Answer: First let me say that I do not believe that your horse is blaming you for the environment in which you keep her. This does not comport with equine behavior. I’m not sure of the length of time when she was friendly with you, but obviously something has been acted upon her with which she tends to take exception. I would do three or four Join-Ups with her and when she begins to come to you willingly, spend quite a bit of time rubbing her neck, head and shoulders, intermittently walking away and encouraging her to come to you with the body language gestures I have written about many times.

Pay close attention to what your body is saying. Where are your hands, your arms and even your fingers? Make sure that your body parts welcome her, rather than reject. One of the gestures people tend to ignore are the movements of the eyes. Make sure that your eyes don’t flick with rapid movement and certainly not in the direction of your horse’s eyes. Learn to drag your eyes with long slow motions and allow them to concentrate on the legs and shoulders of the horse which will still give you a clear indication of where your horse is at all times, but tends to keep the horse from moving away. Write us a quick note and let us know how it goes.

1/10/2018: I’ve bought a traditional cob for my daughter after loosing our mare to cancer last March. We went and tried her, my friend also rode her, she ticked all the boxes so three weeks later I bought her.

I’ve now had her five months. She is safe on the roads, she has hunted her safely BUT she was very spoiled in her last home and her life from young was rubbish. If she doesn’t want to do what you ask she will swing her head to move you. If she doesn’t want to walk she will plant to the point of we could be there an hour.

My confidence has been lost and my daughter who had a bad fall last June breaking both her arms is struggling… we’re not giving in but need expert advice … we are not loaded with cash, so struggle to take her to a training facility but advice would be welcomed. Especially by yourself.

Monty’s Answer: Refusing to go forward is called balking, napping, or jibing. My recommendation is to first consult with your veterinarian to rule out any physical pain the horse might have, as physical pain can be the cause of undesirable behavior. It should be noted that the problem may even have been fostered through physical pain that is no longer present.

Almost every balker that I am asked to work with turns out to be a horse that resists backing-up. For some reason, many horsemen seem to think that schooling a horse to back-up will cause him to be a balker. Nothing could be further from the truth. I recommend you read my textbook From My Hands to Yours about these issues and employ the Dually Halter for cooperation without pain.

You should work to create circumstances so as to intrinsically school the horse not to resist the Dually Halter. When your horse resists the Dually, it becomes smaller and less comfortable, and when he cooperates, the Dually gives immediate reward by expanding, and becoming quite comfortable. Pay particular attention to learning the use of the Dually Halter. Negative behavior such as you have described with the use of his head are key to suggest the need for the Dually Halter.

As you work with your horse, carefully remember the most important issues of using the Dually. Your description of this horse’s behavior would suggest that I emphasize the word INSTANT in its use. When schooling with the Dually, be firm but being firm takes second place to being instant. Many novices will watch me work with the Dually and remark that I was too hard with the horse. In actual fact one must be firm but especially quick.

When loading a horse, reverse is a direction that we should own in a partnership with our horses. The horse that is not trained to back-up willingly may use it against us when he chooses. The horse that will back comfortably and willingly, either from the ground or while you are riding, is far less likely to be a balker than a horse not trained to back-up.

For riding the balking horse, one method I have devised is to first place ordinary blinkers on the horse so that he can’t see behind. This is the type of blinker that closes off the rear half of the horse’s visual plane. A horse has a difficult time going into a place he cannot see. With the blinkers on, the door is open in front of the horse, but he is discouraged from moving backward. So, riding a horse with blinkers will sometimes be sufficient to discourage balking. This method, with the Giddy-Up Rope, is also detailed in my textbook.

1/3/2018: I’m a Portuguese woman aged 57 (only started to ride at the age of 54). I’m riding a Lusitano horse and love him very much. I fell off my horse when cantering, breaking four ribs. This was last June.

I’ve been riding my horse again since last September but I cannot canter anymore since my fall. I know my horse senses my fear and kind of does not respect me. On the other hand, I always feel the need of holding on to my reins creating a lot of tension, so I’m completely confused and stuck with this problem.

I’m would be happy again if I could feel the freedom of cantering again. Can you help me ?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you so much for the question you sent through. It is often I hear of this problem but I can’t remember answering it on my Question and Answer column. The first goal that must be accomplished is to get your confidence back. We will not solve this problem until you are relaxed and confident.

My first suggestion is for you to choose someone who is an excellent rider to assist you in getting back to normal. The second thing I would suggest is that your mentor locate an absolutely fool proof horse. This may or may not be a Lusitano, but it should be one that is easy to achieve the canter with.

My third suggestion is that your mentor leads your horse from the back of another horse. You should find a safe enclosure with good footing and allow your mentor to speak with you as he/she encourages your horse to canter.

The fourth item is to remove the lead rope but continue a close position with your mentor while you canter. Let your mentor know that you do not feel confident and that all of your teaching should be in the direction of raising your confidence, not pointing out your mistakes.

Finally I would say to you that there are many parts of life that I am not confident in. This is not a black mark on your character. It simply means you don’t want another fall. Please continue to communicate with us with your goal to be comfortable at the canter.

12/27/2017: We have met several times now in England. I have a young race horse with a small mouth. She came to me very head shy as a 8-month-old filly. I was recommended as a behaviorist and she came to me for handling as a baby then backing and bringing on as a yearling and two year old. She is very immature, so I advised the owner to leave her as a three year old to run and train. Whilst, in the mean time, handle her and keep her sane whilst ready for backing.

I have now started her training, which I start with bitting, and she is highly rejecting it. Big time! You cannot get near her ears and this tells me she has been twitched in this area. With a little patience and time she is starting to accept this. I have now introduced the bit. She absolutely hates it near her mouth and no way can I put my hand or fingers near her mouth never mind the bit! Any suggestions please?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your interesting question. It’s only been three weeks ago that I was handed a horse that fit this description and a whole lot more. You couldn’t touch his head and you couldn’t touch his body. He would kick and strike depending on which end of him you were nearest. There were times when I expected him to kick and strike at the same time. This horse had a halter growing into his head and been impossible to catch for about three months.

Within two to three days I had him saddled, and on the fourth day he would literally put the bit on himself and allow my hands to slide the bridle over his ears while he played a game with the bit. Clearly it is impossible to answer correctly all of the facets of your question without seeing the horse in mind. Let me describe for you however the procedures I used that I believe were the key to success with this individual. Let me state that the first thing I did was buy a little honey bear from the store.

My bear had a convenient spout at the top of his head so that a neat few drops of honey could be applied to the top of a hand full of grain. Strangely horses need to acquire a taste for honey but when they do, it is usually all-out love. After the hand full of grain I placed a small amount of honey in his empty grain bin. When I noticed him licking the free standing honey, I knew I was on my way to success. It was the third day of playing this game that his taste for honey was apparent.

At this time I began to put honey on the handle of a wooden spoon. Within a few minutes he would take the spoon in his mouth and love the taste of his honey. While the licking was going on I gradually got closer to his ears, massaging the top of his neck. I refused to take my hand away when he rejected my neck massage. He soon learned that the honey would remain for his pleasure if he allowed my hand to massage his crest getting ever closer to that spot between his ears.

It was on the fourth day that I was able to put the honey in the center of a snaffle bit. I had to help the bit into the corner of his mouth at first. Within 15 to 20 minutes he was literally looking for the bit, opening his mouth and accepting the bit into it. Another 20 minutes or so and he allowed my right hand to caress him between the ears with the crown of a bridle with no bit attached. An additional 10 to 15 minutes and this horse would literally take the hanging bit and then the bridle over his ears.

There is a great interest in me to have you follow through with some videos to us with your mission to bridle this difficult animal. I have won several bets with this procedure, and it would please me if you too could bet your friends using this technique. If it’s possible to use a High Def video camera, I would love it. The horse I described to you was privately owned and I have no video evidence that what I have told you is gospel. I think you might make our Online University if you were to be successful as I was.

12/20/2017: I have been spending a lot of time with my sister’s horse Lucky. He is a 17 year old gelding who hasn’t been ridden for some time as he used to be lame but is under vet care and better now. We have spent a great deal of time doing ground work with the
Monty Roberts Dually Halter. Also we give him walks with lots of exposure to anything and everything on the farm and along the country roads. With Lucky’s continued improvement we have begun to ride. We have found him to respond well riding bitless with the Monty Roberts Dually Halter.

We are also riding bareback as he really does well, has more whoa then go and we did not want to put the extra weight of a saddle on him as of yet as we are still babying him and hoping he will continue to be well.Though he has access to pasture all day, being late in the year there is not as much to eat. We supplement with hay in the evening. He doesn’t touch it during the day being content in the field. However, when we ride in the field he puts his head down to eat and it is difficult to get it back up. I will take the Giddy-Up rope with me on the next ride and am considering using a gentle small round ball spurs.

Would this be in keeping with your views, or do you have any other suggestions. I value your opinion and am so grateful for all the knowledge you have shared with me and so many others. Thank you, thank you, thank you.

The world is a better place with you in it. God bless you and yours.

Monty’s Answer: It’s gratifying to have people communicate with me who have significant care and concern for the horses in their lives. Both remedies you mentioned in your question are acceptable. I would make every attempt to ride where grass is not available and when it is I would exercise the procedure of stopping and backing up each time there was an attempt to eat from the ground.

12/13/2017: Some years ago we attended your special training, Join-Up and long lining courses. We also read your books, which fundamentally changed our way of seeing horses as the species they are, not like a dog that can attach and feel devoted to a specific owner, but more that it is important as a human to behave in a consistent and non violent way, using a communication system that the horse understands. Like you say, to be a good leader and earn trust.

In your special training we discussed whether a horse can love a specific human being, and you said, “No.” But a recent experience with one of our ponies that we have owned for ten years has made me maybe wonder. This pony is a 130 cm mare, today 20 years old, tinker type, top showjumping pony. She has, and always had, a craving for integrity both with humans and with other horses. You can’t just rush into her box and grab her. She is not afraid of anything, but she just doesn’t accept humans behaving like bad leaders. If you hit her, she would never forgive you I am sure. The farrier still after all these years sometimes has to have help from one of our young children to lift her back feet so he can shoe her.

She has taken all our seven riding children up the classes all the way to championships and one of them is now one of the top three showjumping in ponies in Europe. We have a lot to thank this mare for. She is now 20 years old but still going strong as ever. One year ago, this pony was taken over by our five-year-old son, and it is just amazing to see how she behaves with him. She is licking her mouth when he comes. Letting him do anything with her. Bending her head down to the ground so he can put the head collar on, following him without lead wherever he goes. And standing still waiting when he climbs up on his little stool, her standing loose outside the stable, no adult at hand, waiting for him to crawl and kick himself up on her back. If our adult rider or I take her out, she does not wait and if we let her loose she would certainly walk away to the grass or even run away from us.
Sometimes if we don’t close the box properly she can almost run over us and squeeze us in the door to get out to the way, but would she do something like that if he stands in the door, never!

When he rides, without leader, now also aged five competing in showjumping up to height 65 cm, she is so careful not to loose him so you can see she almost looks up on him sitting on her back. It looks really special. Now when he is getting better riding, she canters quicker, but always careful to not frighten him. A few months ago when he learned to trot, he would tell her to go quicker with his short legs and with his voice but was she doing that. No, she was just taking a few trot steps, Always slowing down immediately before he lost balance. I should also say that from the very start he was riding without a leader or a rope so it has been entirely up to her to decide how to teach him riding. If one of us adults would sit on he back and asked her to move on, we would have to ride very fast indeed, because this is a very energetic pony, almost hot. Also when you turn towards the stable, she would normally want to trot with an adult and pull, but with him she keeps a steady pace and he can sing and relax, not even needing to hold the reins. He loves her, on that we have no doubt. But it would be tempting to say that she seems to have
very special feelings and a strong bond to him also. What do you say Monty, can´t there be a little love from her towards him after all?

Monty’s Answer: Your story is an absolute dream when it comes to promoting horses as partners of humans. Since you were in my course, several things have occurred which have actually caused me to take pause in my comment ‘Horses can’t love.’ You must understand that my scientific education was filled with facts about how animals think and why they act the way they do. My science classes would never have allowed that horses can love human beings.

Some of my students have disagreed with me and of course I have responded as if I was an authority on the subject. I have to confess to you now, that in the past 10-15 years I have watched science change their opinions on many issues. In addition there are certain factual activities that I have witnessed with horses that would suggest to me that they can create a deep attachment to human beings. Love is a funny word, with a lot of ramifications, but I now can cite examples that I believe prove that horses can nurture a relationship with certain human individuals.

I am witnessing one at this moment in time. In this particular case I believe that most of the attachment or fondness comes from the human side, but I am watching a growing connection that is clearly moving from the horse to the human too. I have always said that I am scratching the surface of really understanding the behavior of these wonderful animals. Perhaps someday we will be able to quantify the affection that horses can generate toward certain humans.

12/6/2017: Hi! My name is Megan Winckler. I teach at Bon Homme Hutterische Colony in South Dakota. One of my seventh grade students is reading about and writing a research paper on Monty Roberts and his accomplishments. He was hoping you could answer a few questions for him:

Is Shy Boy still around?

How many foster children did you have?

How much do you get paid for training a horse?

Have you changed anything on your ranch since the book The Man Who Listens to Horses?

Do you think more people are choosing to train horses the way you do or still the way your father did?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your questions. I would be pleased to answer them.

1. Shy Boy is now 24 years old, he is healthy and being ridden occasionally, and seems to be full of life!

2. We raised 47 foster children and they are now widely scattered over the world. Most have had very positive life careers.

3. Over the years I have had many fee schedules which came to me as a professional trainer. In recent times about 70% of the work I do is a part of my non-profit foundation which is global.

4. There have been some limited changes in the 52 years of Flag Is Up Farms. One addition since the book has been the creation of an international quarantine station, mostly used for horses that are traveling to Australia and New Zealand. Apart from that, the changes are simply the various horses that come and go.

5. Unfortunately there are still many horses trained in the old traditional way. Almost all of them receive some sort of violence in the training. If I have made a difference it would be around 20-30% of the horses in the world. Statisticians state that once you pass the 20% you have reached critical mass. This means that the work in question will probably continue after it’s founded.

11/29/2017: I live in Spain and I have a question that I thought someone there would either know or would know someone who would know…can you pass it on to whoever you think could help me?

I have lived here for 23 years, and until this year fed my horse and mule straw as forage, as it was all I could get. I have now sourced “foraje,” which looks like dried oat grass, and smells wonderful, unsurprisingly they love it!

However when I got my first load in June, each bale weighed 32 kg, but as they have dried out, they now weigh between 20 – 24 kg. So my question is, do I feed by weight or by bulk? as there is a huge difference in what 4 kg looks like back in June and now. I can’t find any information out there on this, I am assuming you don’t get that kind of difference in hay in the UK. I realize some of the weight is moisture, but does that also affect nutritional value?

My two are turned out in a dirt corral, as it hasn’t rained since May there won’t be anything on the land until it does, so I want to get this right. Would really appreciate any advice, or suggestions as to how I can find out.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for an interesting question. As the weight variation in hay is related to moisture and very little else, I would recommend feeding by volume. My concern in answering this question is that if the difference in weight is substantial then I would worry a bit about the curing process which could cause mold to develop that can be harmful to the horse.

If your hay is significantly heavier, carefully observe as it dries by pulling bits of it from the center of the hay before feeding, smell it and break it up to be sure there is no mold or mildew present.

11/22/2017: Can anyone learn something from being around horses?

Monty’s Answer: Everyone can learn from horses and I believe that if I had a chance to train all world leaders with horses, this earth of ours would be improved overnight. Humans could become more trusting, less forceful and better communicators.

11/15/2017: What can horse friends learn in your demonstrations?

Monty’s Answer: Horse friends can learn at my demonstrations that violence is never the answer. It has been my lifelong desire to change the traditional methods of training horses that typically have been very demanding.

11/8/2017: Are horses similar in character, or are there different horse characters as human characters?

Monty’s Answer: Horses come in all shapes and sizes, and I probably work with as many different horses as any human on earth ever has. I sincerely believe that no two horses have ever been exactly the same, and if they are not as varied as people, they are close to it.

10/31/2017: Animals are often used therapeutically, the horse in particular. Why is the horse particularly suitable?

Monty’s Answer: In my work with troubled human beings, I have found great assistance from horses. It seems to me that when one can cause a horse to trust them, the trust is transferred to the human so that they can also trust. I believe that horses do not cure us of anything, but they provide us with a tranquility that causes us to heal ourselves.

I could write a book on this, but it is a complicated issue that provides the human with a large number of opinions. I spent a lot of my life working in this area and forming my own conclusions. The bottom line is that I feel horses are extremely helpful in this process.

10/25/2017: Why should no one eat a horse?

Monty’s Answer: Over the millennia horses have helped us so much with so many aspects of our lives that I simply feel we have no right to eat them. They have plowed our fields, carried us into battle, transported our families and even provided us with hundreds of forms of entertainment. For me, horses are too close to our lives to be considered food.

10/18/2017: Horses play a central role in many religions, even in Christianity. What might be the reason for this?

Monty’s Answer: It is my opinion that the flight animal, a herbivore, and the fact that they are preyed upon by virtually all carnivores, is the reason we humans are intrigued by how different they are from us. Over the generations I believe that we human beings have been infatuated by the freedom they enjoy to fly over the grasslands with incredible athleticism.

10/11/2017: Based on your method of training, I have gentled three mustangs over the years. I still have two of them. One went with a friend of mine who is a very gentle trainer. I used the gentlest of processes to ask my horses to do what I’ve asked of them and may never have consciously frightened them in any way. I have had one for 14 years and one for 9 years. Circumstances have created a big gap in how much they had been ridden in the last three years, and yet they have both behaved beautifully, even on the first day of tacking up, for this I am ever so grateful. My question is do you think that I can easily transition to a bosal or some other halter type reining headstall?

They are great horses and as I am 78 years old I don’t think I’ll be having any rodeos with either of them.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your complimentary statements about using my methods. It is so timely to hear from a horseman such as yourself. Recently we adopted a New Mexico captured mustang that was labeled utterly untrainable. While I had my challenges, I soon discovered that the greatest obstacle I faced was his superior intelligence. When I got it right, so did he.

In these recent weeks, we have created a series of lessons utilizing the training sessions of Diego the mustang. Gentling began with the fact that he was extremely dangerous just to get a halter on. The region of his head and neck could easily cost one their life if he didn’t feel he was in the safest place. And then it was the front legs, the back and the areas of the hip. The hind legs were a no-go zone the likes of which I don’t believe I have ever seen before.

Diego’s intelligence level allowed me to incrementally move step by step to observe the acceptance of humans and only today Diego had his second session with a live rider using the Dually Halter in both sessions. The Dually Halter qualifies as a bitless bridle. I now believe that, if we were good enough, we could teach Diego to read and write. You have offered me the opportunity to describe an experience this 82 year old horseman has never encountered even though these concepts have been tested by 70,000 horses.

The number of horses that I have trained and ridden in hackamores and other forms of bitless bridles is incalculable. I love the hackamore, and I believe that I am the only horseman to ever win back to back world championships with the same horse and the same hackamore. This is not such a great feat when one considers that very few horses have ever been asked to compete in the hackamore two years running. It just so happens Fiddle d’Or was a horse that seemed to be willing to give it a try. I was young enough and silly enough to go along with it and then it was successful.

10/4/2017: I’m am a student of your methods for over six years. I’ve been riding horses for about 45 years, first 15 years English in Germany and for the
last 30 years Western in Alberta, Canada.
For me the first months, maybe years, it was hard to ride on a “long rein.”
English was a contact on a shorter rein (collected). In the University I learn a lot of great things from you. Thanks for this.
Now my question: I’m now almost 73 and like to learn to drive a horse! Can you give people like me lessons and advice in your online University?
Maybe this is even helpful for other Uni students?
Sorry about my English but I’m an old German!

Monty’s Answer: It just so happens that we recently filmed a lesson series about driving on our Equus Online University with Michael Wakefield, Carriage Association of America Master Driver. The series of lessons launches this week on October 4, which is today. If you’d like to learn more, register with the promotional code DAYPASS and see what it’s all about. Go to: http://montyrobertsuniversity.com/library

I happen to believe that driving a horse is a segment of gentle that all horses should experience before they are considered to be completely safe. Each one of our own horses that reach the status of Willing Partners™ is required to drive in a carriage with relaxation and complete acceptance. Communicate with us if there are questions subsequent to the time you see the lessons on this Uni.

9/27/2017: First of all I just want to thank you for sharing all your amazing knowledge with the world. I am from Australia and I have been following you ever since I was a little girl from reading your book about Shy Boy. I saw a couple of your clinics over the years when you came to Australia and am always on the look out for when your back.

I come to you quite upset about a situation that is taking place. I have recently saved a palomino welsh gelding pony from abandonment after he was dumped and left behind in a paddock to starve who has become my daughters pony after getting him back to health.

I then got myself a Thoroughbred mare and working towards my 30 year dream of competing. Both horses are in a 40 acre paddock with two other mares and I come see them twice daily.

My problem is that my daughter and I dream of riding together but my Thoroughbred absolutely hates the pony to the point where he has quite a few bite marks on his back. I pull them both out of the paddock to feed and are fed about 20 meters away.

If the pony finishes his feed and goes to go back into the paddock, the Thoroughbred will just charge. Even when there is no food, she will just chase him to bite him.

I have been taking them on afternoon lead walks together for the last two months to see if that would work but does not seem to have made a difference. I understand I can’t force them to be friends but I can’t even float them together and am so upset that I’ve failed helping my daughter’s dream of riding with her mum.

I am desperate for any advice or help you could offer and even a direction to look for help and would be forever grateful. Thank you.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question but must admit that it is an unusual set of circumstances that you describe. Certainly it is not unusual to have one horse be extremely dominant in a pasture setting. Typically however, once the two of them are brought out of the field and ridden or transported in a trailer the dominant tendencies generally fall by the wayside very quickly.

If the dominant horse continues to be aggressive toward the pony while out of the pasture and active in other circumstances, then there is a serious problem. Dominant behavior is a natural phenomenon. It is not typically anything that one can train away. The handling of dominance is usually most successful through tactics of good husbandry.

My recommendation is that you bring in a qualified professional to view the actual behavioral pattern you describe and hopefully there will be a window of opportunity exhibit itself so that a recommendation could be potentially successful. If you follow this course of action and a plan is outlined I suggest you re-communicate with us and maybe even send through some video.

9/20/2017: Many years ago, we had the privilege of meeting you when you came to Calgary Alberta, Canada. Your way of working with horses changed everything we knew and did working with horses and for us was the only way to build a partnership with our horses. Several years after that meeting, while working with our three year old mare she did something she had never done, she threw my husband twice within 10 minutes. This gave me a really good scare and has left me with far less confidence when it comes to riding.

Now several years later, we have rescued a beautiful Appaloosa mare who is now four. We were very successful in Join-Up and building trust. We have had several lessons with an excellent trainer who fondly refers to her as Saucy Trixie, and she was given several weeks in training with his group. He has really been the only one up on her and she has done well. I have no problem doing ground work with her and we have a great connection, however it is now time to progress to us riding her and to be honest I am apprehensive and anxious over that next step. How something that didn’t even happen to me so many years ago has affected me this way is unsettling. What can I do to change this? If I can’t get past this I am afraid I will never ride her. Any ideas or suggestions?

Monty’s Answer: Your question is one perfectly designed to help a huge percentage of future horse people. Please do not feel apprehensive or inferior because of your concerns. The thoughts that you have regarding what you observe are healthy. It is a fact that they are more healthy than those individuals who would simply march on with an attitude of being brave and fearing nothing. It is okay to face the reality of the incident that you witnessed, and thank God it wasn’t you that was at the center of the event.

It is my advice to any person who chooses to ride a horse that if one doesn’t feel safe riding a particular horse, you’re probably not. So much about staying safe on a horse is how you feel inside yourself. The person who feels the need to be tense is far more likely to have a negative experience than the person who rides with a sense of comfort and relaxation. I tell my students that horses are animals of synchrony. I can prove it’s true that horses synchronize with those near them.

My overall advice to someone posing the good question you have asked is to surround yourself with those who are knowledgeable. Choose a mentor with a strong reputation for experience over a sustained period of time. Listen to that mentor and follow well thought out instructions. Learn as much as you can on your own about what is safe and what is likely not to be safe. There are more opportunities for learning today than there has ever been since humans began to ride horses.

Remember all that is available to you from my organization. From My Hands to Yours, the Equus Online University and so many other forms of information that my organization is attempting to bring to the world of horsemanship. Violence is not the answer, so it is important that you use every opportunity possible to learn about yourself, your horse and the combination of both. Seeing another professional riding your horse under many situations should prove to you whether or not your horse is completely safe.

9/13/2017: I would like to know if the moon influences the teaching of the horse… for example, it is of common knowledge here in Venezuela that it’s often better to tame or break the horse in a waning moon, because if you tame or break him in a crescent moon the horse comes out to be a sweaty horse…. is this true?

Monty’s Answer: There are many things in life that have escaped my education. Following the moon to adjust any procedures in the training of horses has never entered into my concepts. I have studied behavioral sciences and at no time have I ever concluded that any lunar actions have affected the outcome of the training I have done. I have watched a significant number of horses entering procedures to accept their first saddle and rider and have a firm belief that nothing about the moon, the stars or any celestial bodies could act so as to improve the procedures I saw.

The general concepts of breaking horses in Venezuela need extreme revision regardless of the moon’s position shape, color or existence. It is typical for Venezuela to use old world methods including violence. I have a completely different outlook on causing the horse to accept his first saddle and rider.

9/6/2017: I recently bought a wonderful 19 year old mare. As my first horse, she is fantastic in every way. She’s taught me so much already. Her only true bad behavior shows up when she’s being saddled, and especially when she’s being cinched up. She’ll pin her ears, bite at the air, bite at me (I always tie her lead short so she can’t reach me) then she’ll be fine. I believe she used to be saddled very harshly, and has developed a defense mechanism (biting) because of that. How can I break her of this? She’s a very intelligent little mare and I know she can learn. Age is just a number!

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. This behavior is often experienced and many times misunderstood. I find that usually there was pain involved at one point in the life of the horse and not necessarily at the time the question is asked because of continued misbehavior. It is always a good idea to remove the question of physical pain before entering the area of behavioral modification. Once it is clear no current pain is causing the negative action then several procedures can be helpful.

First I recommend one trains the horse to accept “cross ties” with no anxiety. With that accomplished, I recommend the use of a surcingle. They are light and easy to handle and can easily be covered with either real sheep’s wool or artificial sheep’s wool. I recommend placing the surcingle right behind the withers and girthing up at the rate of about one girth-up per minute for 15 or 20 minutes. I recommend repeating this action 2 to 3 times per day for about a week. Should you chose to use a saddle and ride during this procedure you are apt to destroy the process of solving this issue.

One must remember the girth as well as the surcingle is completely covered with a soft cushy material. From that point forward one should observe the potential improvement in the behavior of your horse during the girthing up procedure. It simply is too much trouble for the horse to act out aggressively if there is no pain related to girthing up. When your horse is behaving acceptably with the use of these procedures one should advance to the saddle.

In girthing up the saddle, one should continue to use a full covering of the girth with the soft material. It is possible that the negative behavior will reoccur at the time one begins to use the saddle. Usually several saddlings without any pain will reorganize the horses thoughts so that they don’t expect pain and therefore will eliminate the negative behavior.

8/30/2017: Monty, I have a question for you. My mare, Dixie, is 13 and when I take her out of the field she pulls me to grass and I can’t do anything about it because she is so strong and I’m so small. I’ve been starting to lunge her to get her to respect me and she does, but what I don’t understand is why does she pull me to the grass when I take her out of the field. Monty what should I do because she thinks she’s the boss. How can I show her I’m in charge when handling her, riding and lunging she is great it is just handling her that she just pulls me about. Monty, what would you do to teach her manners and how would you do it?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your inquiry. You have outlined a problem that many people have. Since very few people are as big as a horse, and virtually no one is as strong as their horse, the answer is “horses do it because they can.” The horse will pull you to the grass if it can pull you to the grass and then it gets a big bite of what it’s after. If you are lucky, and you’re in the pasture, you can take the halter off while it’s chewing its trophy.

It would please me if I could ask you if you have a Dually Halter. If you’re not strong enough to control the horse with the Dually Halter, then we have a problem. If you have a Dually Halter and school your horse to respect it long before there is grass involved, you have a much better chance to solve this problem.

One may have to bring in a friend or family member who is much stronger to deny a reward by using a Dually Halter, always entering the pasture, turning immediately back toward the gate and causing your horse to stand still while removing the halter never causing the horse to blast away from you.

It would be wise for you to use the Equus Online University to discover the art of schooling with the Dually Halter and educating your horse to stand still. These are valuable lessons, clearly outlined and demonstrated on the Online University.

8/23/2017: I have been riding my Paint Horse in a rubber Nathe. She is five years old. If I were to use a snaffle loose ring bit, would this bit be a sour taste in her mouth? Would it be a sensory overload? I have looked at sweet iron bits online, but they seem to be very thin. This particular brass bit has another metal mixed in so it doesn’t bend. But I am worried about the sour taste for her? Please advise. Just to clarify, the bit in question is in fact copper loose ring snaffle that I am concerned about leaving a sour taste in my young mares mouth.

Monty’s Answer: I am a strong advocate for using “black iron bits.” These were the normal bits for thousands of years before the advent of stainless steel. I find that horses prefer black iron and perform better with it than stainless steel. I further recommend that the black iron bit has copper inlaid in the mouthpiece. The combination of black iron and copper seems to me to be preferred by virtually every horse I work with. Copper creates saliva which lubricates the mouth and horses enjoy sweet iron.

To keep a sensitive mouth, in my opinion mouthing is one of the most important procedures where training the young horse is concerned. It is critical to cause the horse to respond to cues from the reins and bit with the most subtle cues one can accomplish. The tissues over the bars of the horse’s mouth in the area of the corners are precious to any horseman. They should be treated with utmost respect as there is no second chance to create sensitivity once this area has been damaged during training.

We all want a sensitive mouth, but we are responsible for either creating that sensitivity or destroying it. The bit is our partner in that effort. The only things that can be harsh about a bit are the hands that hold it. The well-trained horse with a properly fitted bit can have the reins tied on with fishing line and one should not have to worry about it breaking.

To start the young horse, I use the Dually Halter and teach the horse to respond to light rein pressure off the training rings on the Dually. I am also a proponent of mouthing the horse before saddling or riding. The definition of mouthing is to accustom the horse to bit and bridle (usually a snaffle). It is to cause the horse
to be comfortable with wearing this device and responsive to being guided by it. It might seem strange to the reader who has seen my demonstrations to grasp this concept. I do not see the horses used in my demonstrations until the time of the event.

For my full instructions on the incremental and gentle process of mouthing, see my textbook From My Hands to Yours.

8/16/2017: Does it matter to a horse what the words are that you say to him?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for asking the question regarding horses and how they process words and or sounds. Please be aware that I am fully in favor of all of the statements made by our online student, Kiki, below who took the Monty’s Challenge and sent her answer in. She gives us a fairly comprehensive answer, and I agree with each of the elements outlined in her answer. The only comments I would make to expand upon that answer is that there was no reference to diaphragmatic breathing. Diaphragmatic breathing is that practice whereby we can use that diaphragm (flat muscle separating lungs from intestines) which can extend by dropping down, an act which causes the thoracic cavity to become significantly enlarged.

Causing the area of the lungs to be larger does more than just allow for a greater volume of air. When this occurs, it automatically lengthens our vocal chords. Any singing, acting or speech coach will tell you that diaphragmatic breathing will lengthen the vocal chords, consequently enriching the quality of voice. Breathing high or raising the diaphragm will cause it to take on a dome shape. This shortens the vocal chords and reduces the volume of air. Adrenaline will automatically tend to cause the human anatomy to elevate the diaphragm.

Conversely the reduction of adrenaline will tend to cause the human anatomy to power the center of the diaphragm, creating the desired affect. It seems clear to me that the earliest riders learned to cause their horse to relax, stop and also to stand still when they said the word ‘Whoa.’ Horses will habituate to virtually any sound, so you could teach a horse to stop when you say, “YIKES!” But the word Yikes tends to cause the human to breath high in the chest which does not allow for diaphragmatic breathing. Your horse will eventually stop when you say Yikes! but he will habituate more successfully when you say Whoa!

Recently, I met a man named Dr. Peter Levine. He took me one step further and said “Why don’t you try the word Voooooo (rhymes with Booooo).” Wow! When I tried it, I quickly learned that putting your lower lip behind your front teeth to make the V sets one up to more easily lengthen the vocal chords and you begin to use the letters OOOOO. I tried it by alternating the Whoas and Vooos. Surprisingly I discovered that the Vooo does cause a greater vibration within the chest cavity. Should one choose to school your horse with the Vooo it is my opinion that you will be more successful than using the word Whoa. Give this one a try on your own.

It is likely that I am the first person to ever write about what causes a horse to go faster when using a high squeak or cluck. Defining the act of causing a horse to go faster by using the kissing or clucking sound undoubtedly relates to a response to a predator breaking twigs in the bush, forest or chaparral. I learned it in a funny way by watching a David Attenborough documentary and realizing that the lioness moves her advancing foot sideways a few strokes to clear any twigs from the ground before pressing her weight down which would undoubtedly break the twigs signaling the prey animal to get the heck out of there.

As our student Kiki below suggests, one can train any action with any word depending on the number of times that you use the word and request the action. To enhance the learning process, if one uses the closest sound to what innately produces the desired action, the faster one can expect to get the desired results. If you want to take a long time to teach your horse to stop, run him fast and yell out Yikes! You will eventually get it but your horse might be very old and unable to run fast at that point. As horsemen each of us should be working hard to meet the needs of our horse by giving him the clearest possible communication.

From our student Kiki: To me this is a two-fold question. Are you just “making friendly conversation, or are you teaching a command?

On the first situation, I would say that I do believe they appreciate – sometimes even need – that we talk to them, but words or language is of no importance since horses aren’t using words themselves, nor have a proper spoken language. The important thing is how you use your voice.

Let’s agree that you can influence a horse a lot with your voice, like you can soothe a horse by talking in soft, low tones. Contrary, I knew a lovely person once who made all animals jumpy and nervous simply because she had a very sharp, shrill voice and talked very fast.

(And here I could go into personalities and body language as well, since talking slowly and softly generally slows you down, making you appear calmer – and I’m sure your mental picture of the shrill voiced person is of someone with jerky, fast movements – but I digress.)

Now, if you angrily scold your horse with the words: “Good boy!”, or murmur loving praise by saying: “I’m gonna kill you, you dirty ape” (or whatever expletive that comes to mind) the horse will still react to your tone of voice, not the words because (I believe) they communicate more with emotions and body language than we do.

Mind you, repetition creates mindsets, so maybe not use “good boy” too much to berate your horse or it just might get an unintended reaction once you use it to praise…

And with that caveat in mind I am moving on to the other situation: teaching a command.

Some research has established that horses can be compared with 3-year old kids in intelligence when it comes to understanding and capability of learning, so they are supposed to be able to learn over a 100 different words.

And we do use a lot of word cues and various clicking of tongue sounds with our horses; Whoa, trot, lift the foot, stand still, no – and so on. So, obviously, they can learn and understand quite a lot of words and other cues/signals once we have repeated it enough times for them to understand.

The important thing here is not confusing a horse with different signals for the same thing or vice versa; same word for different things.

If you want him to trot at the word “Pie!” then you should always use that word for trot and nothing but trot.

Likewise, if you want him to stop at the word “Custard!” you can’t also use it to slow him down, or shout five other words at him until he actually stops.

So words are important then? Well, yes and no, just mind the difference!

General communication with your horse is based more on immediate emotions – like when we separate wanted and unwanted behavior by way of praising or scolding, calming or exciting noises. Or just “hang out”, being in each others company.

Commands/cues are clear and (preferably anyway) void of emotion, asking promptly for a specific reaction. For example, you don’t generally modulate your tone of voice to get either trot or canter, but you do when you reward the following effort.

Summary: Tone of voice is more important than what words you use in communication. But words repeated enough times to be connected to a specific event/reaction will eventually be understood by the horse. What words/sounds/cues you decide to teach him is up to you, so choose with care – and have fun communicating with your horse!

8/9/2017: Thank you for the “Preparing for the Farrier” Equus Online University lesson series. My BLM mustang, Monty, received his first trim today without a hiccup. What a superstar! He impressed the farrier, an observer, and even me. The incremental learning process complimented by the Dually Halter as taught in those lessons was a total success.

Now my question: Could you shed some light on the “Wild Horse Trim” also known as the “Wild Horse Round”? My farrier, a very well educated and skilled young man, advised against the trim. His view basically was that the round comes too close to the expansive capillaries in the hoof all at once and often creates soreness for a week or so. He believes that the hoof will naturally wear gradually to the modeled contour from the hard packed coral. I saw no signs of that contour naturally happening with Monty or our other mustang, Ellie, over the past seven months. Ellie especially appeared to be recently trimmed by the BLM before the adoption last June and has begun to flare on the inside of her front hoofs. I opted not to have the “Wild Horse Trim” done on Monty this time wanting to leave things on a very positive note for him and pending further research.

Monty’s Answer: Our Equus Online University Team was happy to hear you liked the Preparing for the Farrier lesson series. Currently I am enjoying working with some extra wild mustangs and I am not close to getting all the feet trimmed. Congratulations on your obvious success. My tendency is to agree with your farrier to the extent that rolling the toe can produce the symptoms he describes.

To me it’s a matter of degree. Personally, I would give a slight roll to the toe but I would not trim to the extent that some people recommend. Weakening the outer wall of the hoof can produce the soreness your farrier describes. I somehow feel however that he would agree to a slight rounding of the toe so that there was not a tendency to have the foot apply enough pressure to the toe to chip it just before leaving the ground.

We used to say that these slight compromises were simply common sense but in this day and age the world tends to move in extremes. Share this message with your farrier and I think he will probably agree to meet you somewhere in the middle.

8/2/2017: I have a four-year-old dales x cob that I have started and backed using your methods. She is very confident and good in the saddle, the only trouble I’m having is moving her forward. She will back and turn but not go forward I have tried everything I can think of. She is very good in hand and long lining I just need help to push her forward in the saddle. I ride on a Dually halter, which she is used to and behaves well on.

Monty’s Answer: Before I attempt to give you the appropriate answer, you should know that this is a question I hear quite often globally. There are lessons I’ve written in my textbook From My Hands to Yours about refusing to go forward called balking, napping or jibing. It occurs largely because of pain caused by athletic injury, wear and tear, an accident or misfitting tack or harness, but it could also be a learned behavior.

In the days when driving and working horses in harness was the order of the day, balking was commonplace. A misfitting collar was often the culprit. This piece of equipment was the main contact point as the horse pulled his load. Significant pain could quickly produce a balking draft horse. Before dealing with balking through techniques I describe here, you should take great care to eliminate the potential for physical pain as the cause of the undesirable behavior.

It should be noted that the problem may have been fostered through physical pain that is no longer present. The pain, however, could have been the catalyst to the development of the remedial problem. Once the trainer has concluded that the horse is currently free of physical ailments, he can go on with the training procedures outlined in my Equus Online University called Walter Won’t Go Forward or the balking, napping or jibing lessons from my textbook.

Almost every balker I am asked to work with turns out to be a horse that resists backing up. For some reason, many horsemen seem to think that schooling a horse to back up will cause him to be a balker. Nothing could be further from the truth. As with loading, reverse is a direction that we should own in a partnership with our horses. The horse that is not trained to back up willingly may use it against us when he chooses.

The horse that will back comfortably and willingly, either from the ground or while you are riding, is far less likely to be a balker than a horse not trained to back up. In my From My Hands to Yours textbook you can read more about the equipment I use to create a horse that has overcome his unwillingness to move forward. You will have a happier horse when he is content to go forward.

7/26/2017: I would like to ask Monty a question regarding a Haflinger mare we have who sometimes runs about her pen bucking exuberantly, then runs up to the fence where the neighboring gelding is and kicks at him through the fence “firing both barrels.”

My dear husband is very concerned about this. Personally being as these pens are about 60’ x100’ I will feed other horses first, then her when she settles down a bit. I feel that we sometimes have to pick our battles. It is difficult to do much when a horse is running loose in a turn out.

If this question is given to Monty also give him our thanks as we purchased Dually halter kit and my husband has been reading the book “From My Hands To Yours,” which is helping in more ways than one as Monty basically says much that lines up with what I tell my husband about horses. While I have had much experience with horses, I do not know everything and am gleaning from the book and videos (old dog, new tricks).

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your question. While I am suffering from a lack of information regarding your circumstances, I will attempt to answer as well as I can. First, let me say that I did not receive information that you tried feeding her first. Perhaps if she were occupied with her own food she would be less likely to act out against other individuals who are getting theirs first.

Secondly, my advice would be not to feed her in the pasture at all but to remove her from the field, and feed the empty field as well as all the other horses then return her to her field and food at the same time. There are a lot of psychological reasons for this, but suffice it to say that there is a territorial component to this problem so think of it in this way and you may come up with other solutions.

7/19/2017: What’s left for you for the future?

Monty’s Answer: You ask this question of an 82 year old man? Actually, I do have an answer for this question. My plan is to learn as much as I can to leave to the next generation so horses can have a better life after I am gone.

7/12/2017 Our names are Kalley Hunter and Molly Walker from McMinnville High School. We are currently doing a project about gentling horses and bringing awareness to how sensitive horses are. We were wondering if you could answer a few questions we have for our project. Thank you for your time!

Monty’s Answers: Why do you think people are so rough when training horses?

It is my opinion that the reason people are so rough in training horse is that about 6000 years ago humans captured and began to domesticate horses. Since we are predators, the drawings in the caves will indicate that we used violent, demanding and coercive techniques to execute what has come to be called “breaking.” This is to cause the horse to submit and become willing to perform for us.

The fact is it worked, and so breaking was handed down through the generations to become the accepted way of training horses. No evidence has come to light regarding any change in those techniques until my time on the face of this earth. Circumstances surrounding my upbringing caused me to investigate, experiment and discover that one can even get horses to cooperate more in the absence of violence.

How do you develop trust with a horse?

The short answer to this would be to be trustworthy. The horse can never trust us until we prove that they are safe doing so.

Why is it important to be gentle with a horse?

It is important to be gentle to a horse for the above reasons, namely to gain their trust.

How intelligent do you think horses are?

The intelligence of horses exists in a very narrow range. They only have two goals in life. One is to reproduce and the other is to survive. In that very narrow range, I take the position that they are much more intelligent than human beings. Look what we do to one another. Watch the critical mistakes that we make, mostly in the areas of ego and greed, and you will see that horses are extremely intelligent where they need to be.

7/5/2017: After 35 years with horses of all types, polo, teaching, show jumping, racing-the horse has taught me a lot. Yet there is for me a simple way to define the horse. The three R’s. They react, respond and remember. Never think. The day a horse thinks you won’t see me for dust! Would you agree on the definition?
Mark Paterson

Monty’s Answer: You pose an interesting question and it is clear to me that we have a lot more to do to fully understand our horses. There are times when I believe they think a lot, and then there are times when I believe they were simply reacting. I would have preferred that you ask, ‘Can they plan?’ Then I would clearly respond that I don’t believe they plan anything. Having said that, when we watch the wild horse herds move high in the summer and down low in the winter we can wonder whether or not they plan for the future.

6/28/2017: I am in the unique position of having twins. My colts were born May 27, 2016, and are thriving, against all odds. They are physically perfect, x-rays are all clean despite having rubbery legs at birth. They were about four weeks early. I have found no information on training them. They are exceptionally bonded to each other, much more than to their brother who was born the day before.

They were on stall rest for the first six weeks of their lives and handled extensively. I work with a trainer who had the privilege of spending time at Mr. Roberts’ farm and he has been part of our handling of the foals. My specific question is, should I separate the twins? I am concerned at how bonded they are, they move in tandem in the paddock, but I don’t want to traumatize them by separating them too young. If I separated them I would be inclined to move one off property. They will be gelded in the next few weeks. Any guidance you could provide would be much appreciated.

Monty’s Answer: Raising twin horses is a task quite unique. Separating them is absolutely essential. You are right in thinking one would have to move off the property. This task is best accomplished if each of the youngsters have an adult horse as a companion. It is necessary to take some extra time so that the twin chosen to remove from the property has a chance to become acquainted with its companion.

I have found that an elder gelding is the best companion for these young twins. If possible, one should continue to handle both individuals. Keeping them occupied and friendly toward a human will tend to reduce the amount of trauma that will inevitably be felt by the separated twins. Pay close attention to the safety factors of the eventual property, fencing and footing in particular.

Good luck and keep me posted on your progress!

6/21/2017: I have read all your books and followed your training for the last 10 years and am a member of your Equus Online University. I also had the privilege of meeting you at your ranch during a soldier’s retreat. I have used your Join-Up and Follow-Up to gentle over 50 horses in the last 5 years. Some have been green broke, some have been untouched and others abused. They have ranged from 2 years old to as old as 15 and your methods have always worked. I am now working with a 2 ½ year old Tennessee mare that was turned out by herself, after being weaned and has had no contact with other horses.

During Join-Up she gave all the cues and came into me and did follow up without hesitation. While she has never been haltered, after two days of working with her in the round pen I have been able slowly gain her trust. She has allowed me to touch her and rub all over her but she still has not allowed me to place the line or halter on her although she is very interested in the Dually Halter and long line and will even touch it with her nose when asked. I believe once I get the Dually on her, she will respond and progress quickly. I intend to use a chute, like the one in your gentling pen to get her used to the halter, or is this a mistake?

Furthermore, I don’t believe I have achieved Join-Up in the true sense in that although she gave all the signs and Joined Up and Followed Up, there appeared to be a disconnect between what she does and her truly understanding why she is doing it. I am not sure how to explain it but it is like she instinctively goes through the motions, but doesn’t understand the why of it, if that makes sense? So my question is, is this because she was not socialized with other horses or am I completely missing something?

Also, are there other things I should look for or expect from her in her training that I have not encountered with other horses I have gentled? I have searched the Equus Forum and Question and Answers and didn’t see this specific issue addressed but did see your response to Orphans in which you stated “Orphans present us with challenges that are so individual we must use our experience to tailor our training to the challenge on hand.”

This is the first horse I have ever worked with that was not raised with other horses and I would really appreciate your thoughts. Finally, have you ever worked with unsocialized horse and if so do you believe it can become a good reliable trail horse with the proper time and training?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you. Let me reverse your inquiry by stating that I do believe that you can train virtually any horse to be a well trained trail horse. Since this is a mare we are discussing, it is probable that she will tend to defend herself if crowded into a small space by a group of other horses. This is the nature of Equus the female. If trail riding is desired while riding alone, there is obviously no problem. A small group of individuals familiar to your mare increases the potential for success in creating a safe trail horse. Just remember that Equus the female will tend to protect herself from invaders.

With regard to the Dually Halter, I am pleased to hear that you have a chute available. This is extremely helpful in putting on the first halter. I would suggest that you create an artificial arm. Use that arm to cause your mare to accept a human like object in all areas of her body that you can reach safely. The neck and head are critical in this effort. I suggest you use a long line or a long rope and pass it over the neck of your mare while in the chute. Use the artificial arm instead of your own as much as possible. Once you can place the rope around the neck of your mare, tie a bowline knot in it so that one can begin to alter the position of the head and neck with the rope.

Completing that, tie about 3-4 feet of baling twine to the top strap of the halter and begin to pass the halter over the neck allowing it to hang down on the far side of your mare. One can begin to hook the halter with the artificial arm so that you can hold it by the buckle. One can tie the halter off so that it is hanging around the horses neck allowing her to learn that its no danger to her. While it is there, begin to massage her nose area with the glove on the end of the artificial arm. The glove should be soft and filled with material that would pad it so that there is no hard bumping of the nose area.

You will have fun then using innovation to figure out how to get the halter over the nose. The use of a conventional halter is easier to place and will habituate your mare to accept the movements so that later putting on the Dually Halter will be much easier. Keep us posted as to the progress. Have fun and I think you will be surprised as how quickly your mare will wear the Dually Halter. Continue to watch our Equus Online Uni lessons to watch for the areas where you are referring.

6/14/2017: Let me begin by saying that we feel very fortunate to have “discovered” a video of you doing a demonstration of a dealing with a horse which was reluctant to load in a trailer several years ago. Since then we have read your books, watched your videos, and purchased a Dually halter. We are subscribers to you weekly online newsletter. We have recommended your non-violent methods to scores of horse owners. Thank you for your life-long commitment.

My wife and I coach a Special Olympics equestrian team. The team has a small herd of five horses, all living in the same paddock. We have three mares and two geldings. As is their nature, they have established a specific hierarchy, with one of the mares on the top. This mare was one of the last horses to join the herd and did not make her move to climb the ladder until one of the other mares suffered a brief period of lameness.

Since ascending to the top, she has managed to completely change the behaviors of the other horses, with a negative impact on the their suitability for our special riders. Several of them are now overly guarded of their backsides. They either turn to face horses coming from behind or kick at unknown horses approaching. In our practices, they often shy away from the top mare.

At a recent competition, we were advised by the safety steward that we might have to put a “kicker” ribbon on our previously “most dependable” mare. We understand that there is little we can do to change the natural dynamics, but wonder if removing the offending mare is our only option to regaining dependable behavior from the others. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Monty’s Answer: You have no idea how pleased I am to receive the words from your recent question. Recently my concepts were brought into question by one of my greatest friends, a critic. He is a scientist and a professor and joins the ranks of people who would qualify as critics of mine. This gentleman, I’m sure, has an extremely high IQ and has completed extreme education. I call my critics my greatest friends because they consistently cause me to work harder to perfect my work in order to prove or change my long standing beliefs. I have indeed changed over the decades. I believe, without question, I am significantly more effective with my horses today than I was in the past. Much of the credit goes to those who would criticize my work.

When a qualified professor and well known scientist hones in on a particular criticism I pay close attention. Often times their findings are laughable only because they have no particular experience or knowledge of Equus in the real world. Recently one of these critics set about to have students do a trial and at the conclusion of this effort he published his findings. This brilliant man announced to the world that where horses are concerned there is no such thing as alpha or a hierarchy at all. He claimed any behavior appearing to be a hierarchy was simply a mistake on the part of people who really didn’t understand the science of Equus.

I recently answered this by saying that any horseman that has two or more horses in a enclosure knows full well that horses live in family groups governed by a hierarchy that is real and very visible. In some of my writings I have outlined the exact same hierarchy within the family group of totally wild deer that I have studied for 43 years. With the deer the only difference I note when compared with Equus is that it is simply more intense. As with Equus the highest form of a leader within the family is virtually always a female. At the moment in my deer family there is one doe about 10 years old that I call Lumpy. Lumpy is not the largest. She is not the prettiest. But she is always the authority.

Kim and Ruby are definitely the largest and healthiest. They are about six years old and probably twice as strong as Lumpy, but whatever Lumpy says, is obeyed. That is a hierarchy. When she chooses, Lumpy will square up on one or more of the family members, arch her neck and slap a front foot on the ground similar to a judge banging his gavel in the court room. That judge might be older and frail but he is the boss. Kim and Ruby along with about 30 members of the family will lower their heads and defer to Lumpy without hesitation.

You have a similar situation in the scenario you have outlined to me. The mare, as you point out, always needs to protect those body parts behind her midsection. If one is dealing with a trail riding group, around 80-90 percent of all kicking incidences are perpetrated by a mare. We simply must obey nature in regarding the female as the perpetrator of this behavior. It is not that they are individually mean nor do I believe that the intentionally want to harm another horse. They are acting under the guidelines of millions of years to create a hierarchy.

It would take a book to explain all the reasons that Mother Nature set up Equus in this way but its there. Its visible and clear. For this reason I have chosen to include only geldings in my Willing Partners™ family of horses. They are trained to be bomb proof and to provide novices and elderly riders with as safe a relationship with a horse as we can possibly provide. It is my opinion that we cannot interfere with nature in an attempt to train these idiosyncrasies out of the horses we deal with. In this incidence, there is another hierarchy more powerful than any others. Mother Nature is the leader.

Removing the offending mare will improve the situation. It is my position that all you have to do is wait and watch as the next mare rises to become the matriarchal leader. I strongly recommend that Equine Assisted Therapeutic Riding, lesson horses in groups, etc. should be as much as possible conducted by geldings. Statistics will back me up. This does not mean that there are no dependable mares. I am giving you the best advice I can based on the statistics that are there.

6/7/2017: Thank you for all you’ve given to the horse world. I have watched every video and read your books and and have gained more understanding of horses in the last two years than in the previous 30. I still have a long way to go and still struggle with a few problem horses. I bring in rescue unwanted horses all the time and do my best to turn them into good riding horses so they can find good homes. My 13-year-old daughter does this with me and does great from Join-Up to under saddle.

My question is how critical are the signs for Join-Up? I have done Join-Up with over 50 horses and every one seems to be a little different. Some that were all but wild when I got them seemed to have read your book and did a text book Join-Up. I have a mustang that at first tried to turn on me, rearing up and striking. I was able to drive her away and within minutes was doing a textbook Join-Up.

Where I have doubts is when I don’t get clear signs. One may have smaller circle with licking and chewing but doesn’t lower head. Another may not lick and chew, etc. If the end result is that they come to you, and Join-Up and Follow-Up, is that okay?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question, but I also thank you for the information about Wisconsin having more horses than cows. I should have known that, but I didn’t.
With regard to the communication system of Equus, it is absolutely true, just like humans, every horse has a unique personality. I have often said if you numbered the gestures of a Join-Up one, two, three and four, it generally happens that one, the ear, is number one. Often number two is making a smaller circle and then three is, most of the time, licking and chewing. Dropping the head is most often the last of the four gestures.

Then, I go on to say that this is a conversation. Some people say, “hello.” Some people say, “hi ya,” while the young ones would say, “what’s up?” In a human conversation, certain elements are left out and others are emphasized. If you are getting a good Join-Up, you have succeeded in the goal we have set for your horse. The more horses you work with, the more likely you are to be able to encourage each of the four gestures. Remember, the order of the gestures can change as well. It is a conversation, not a script.

5/31/2017: I’ve read Monty’s responses about biting and nippy horses and how to deal with that behavior on the ground. My question is how to deal with it while in the saddle? I have a young mare and she will turn and nail me in the shin with her teeth (ouch) when I’m asking for her to do things she doesn’t want to do, like turning left or going in a direction she doesn’t want to go. Saddle fine, no pinching. She does it on the ground sometimes when I am grooming or picking up a foot and my back is to her head and the tactics he covered has yet to work on her.

Monty’s Answer: This problem rarely occurs in the horse industry. Normally it is related to a youngster that is either extra sensitive or aggressive. Ruling out all medical reasons for her discomfort, you need to ask why she acts out in this way. By process of elimination, you may come to the conclusion that you consistently ask your mare to do something that she doesn’t want to do.

Now, the question is what do you do when she acts upon her urge to attack your leg. The fact is, if we are going to stop this behavior, your mare must do it and receive negative consequences for the behavior. So when you have again asked her to do the thing she doesn’t like to do and her head comes around to your right leg, your responsibility is to get her attention from the other side. I’ll explain how in a moment.

After achieving attention on the other side, she must be asked to do some significant work. It becomes my obligation to give you tried and proven tools to do the job. My number one recommendation is a Giddy-Up rope. It’s made of soft braided yarn. There are many areas where one can learn about this tool and how to use it. The Equus Online University and From My Hands to Yours textbook being my best recommendations.

When your mare makes the move, bring the Giddy-Up rope down behind your leg on the opposite side of the mare. For those of you who have a colt, please realize that you can use the same technique. This will typically make a loud sound but cannot cause pain. If you are in a Western saddle, tapping the leather is just as effective as tapping your horse.

The object is to take the horse’s attention to the opposite side to the negative behavior. They can’t help it, they will tend to bring their head back to the stimulus on the opposite side. If the horse does not respond as indicated, repeat it even louder. Remember that the Giddy-Up Rope is truly a painless tool. The goal is simply to get attention on the opposite side.

Before I discovered the Giddy-Up Rope, I used a spur. This can be effective but should never be used to the extent that it goes as far as bruising muscle or breaking the skin. This is why I adopted the habit of coating my spurs with rubber. Spurs should NOT cause pain but should send the message across. Thankfully these are now available made properly and sold at tack shops all over the world.

My recommendation of the Giddy-Up rope is far and away better than the spur routine. It is however necessary to learn how to use it effectively, quickly recognizing that it takes one your hands off the rein depending on your level or ability. I strongly recommend that a novice rider get help or not ride a horse with these issues anyway.

The work that one would choose to do after the horse’s head returns to a more normal position is highly dependent upon the personality of the horse involved. My recommendation is to canter small circles at a rate of speed that maximizes the work load on the horse that is involved. I recommend about ten revolutions less than 30 feet in diameter.

The direction of the circle should be opposite to the action of biting expressed by the horse involved. I found that typically these horses will reverse the action the next time they use this behavior. They will tend to try both sides simply to see what they could get away with, as I judge it. Remember one should be on good footing to execute the circles.

Over the decades I have found that this concept will be effective after three to five repetitions. Once the behavior stops it generally stays away for the life of the horse. If three to five daily sessions are completed without success I strongly recommend bringing in a professional, reading them this answer and allowing an expert to execute the concepts I have outlined. Keep us posted!

5/24/2017: I am your student from Croatia. I attended your demo in Hungary two years ago. Also, I did my Intro exam three years ago with your instructor Kata Pataky. Since then, I have worked with several horses and trained them using your principles and have been riding dressage and showjumping for the last seven years.

I have a question for you: where is the fine line between extremely remedial horse that can be retrained and have a normal life in spite of his past and a horse that is prone to injure somebody in future and should be put down? What are the red flags?

Monty’s Answer: Answering your question requires a lot of information and some visual appraisal of the horse analyzed. Putting a horse down is the final failure by humans to discover the needs of that animal. There are some horses that are simply too far gone mentally. Certainly putting a horse down because it is physically compromised and its quality of life has ended can be advisable. Putting a horse down for a remedial problem is quite another.

Dealing with the remedial situation, it is fair to conclude that a horse, primarily stallions or mares that have become significantly aggressive, is a reason to consider euthanasia. No horse is worth the life of a human, and I recall so clearly loosing one student about 60 years ago to an aggressive stallion. She asked me to advise her and I did. I told her to cease handling the horse and I suggested a team of professionals who had a facility that might have saved his life. This student was an advanced professional at the time and she failed to take my advice. Her children, about 8 and 10 years of age, grew up without a mother. It has bothered me for all these decades.

This does not mean that I am quick to advise euthanasia, and I didn’t even make that request in the case I related. It should always be a last resort, however novices and even intermediate horsemen should not deal with aggressive equine individuals. Aggression is not the only criteria by which a horseman can come to this decision. Bucking with a rider can work its way into being unpredictable. Rearing over backwards, in some cases, can become too dangerous to live with.

It is risky for me to give any advice about a time for euthanasia. It should always be governed by an extreme expert and only after that individual has had extensive personal evidence that there are more ways to lose than to win. I recommend calling in an expert. No horse is worth a human life so it should be viewed by the best experts available and euthanasia should be the last resort.

5/17/2017: Dear Monty, when riding a racehorse, why is so much pressure/force put onto the reins by the jockeys when the horses are racing? I once rode a friend’s retired racehorse in a field near my home, trying it out. After cantering round the five-acre field I wanted to return to my friend at the start and as usual gently put pressure on the reins and knees into the saddle to slow down and walk but instead as I put the usual pressure on the reins the horse went faster. I forget how I finally managed the horse to know I wanted it to walk and stop, but it finally did. I see pictures of ridden racehorses with the bit pulling the whole mouth right up to their eyes (almost) and jockeys standing in their stirrups to do this. What is the purpose for this?

Monty’s Answer: The description you provide makes several assumptions I view differently from your take on the situation regarding racehorses. It is essential that any successful jockey learns how to cause the horse to use the bit and reins as part of their balance when moving forward at a high rate of speed. Loose reins on a racehorse cause balance to be very difficult.

Pulling the reins as tight as you have suggested is bad horsemanship and may be conducted by a less than perfect jockey. In visiting with jockeys, I often advise fairly loose reins during the center portion of the race involved. The winner of any race will generally be a horse who relaxes for a significant portion of the race involved.

Close observation will show that when the horses have passed the finish line jockeys will ask them to “pull up” by standing in the stirrups, relaxing their entire body and allowing the reins to become relatively loose. When we transition the racehorse to become a riding horse, it is essential we take time to train them to come off the pressure of the bit.

It is my recommendation that we do this in a confined area in the name of safety for both horse and rider. Use a surcingle and the biting up process to soften your horse’s attitude to the bit. Use a bit with some leverage as the snaffle suggests racing and a bit with leverage suggests relaxation and flexing off the bit pressure.

A further recommendation is to create as many cues as possible for coming off the bit instead of pushing into the bit. I use a lot of forward position for forward motion and then a sitting down relaxing and feet slightly ahead to achieve relaxation and flexing off the bit. Simply humming with low tones or using the word whoa will help the cueing.

5/10/2017: I have recently been thinking about my future career. I want to be a horse trainer but I have no experience. I have big dreams but I need experience. What could I do to get the experience I need?
Abigail

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question, and congratulations on your desire to become involved in the training of horses. There is one thing I can guarantee you after spending a lifetime of training horses. I assure you no one can give you a pill or tablet that will suddenly cause you to know how to train horses. Even academic studies fall short of your entire need.

Please understand good horsemanship comes with a necessity for a lot of hard work. I recommend aggressive goal setting. I further recommend that once the goal is set, a strong study is set to determine the best form of acquiring the information necessary. Books are good and courses too, but do not eliminate the hands-on experience.

Volunteering to work in horse training operations is a big part of any horseman’s education. It is critical to choose the right people so as to provide you with the best information. My recommendation is to insist upon working in the absence of violence and being mentored by those who embrace this concept. This is a critical aspect.

Training horses can seem glamorous to young people, and I personally think that it is glamorous. When we get it right, training horses is extremely fun. There is very little fun, however, in the act of demanding from these wonderful animals and allowing violence to become a part of our regimen. I hope to hear from you in the future.

5/3/2017: Please could you just advise me. I brought a 7-year-old Connemara x Irish Sports Horse mare, 14.2 hands high. She’s very head shy. She wasn’t big enough for the people who bred her so they put her on loan. They didn’t get on with her so gave her back very thin and unloved. The owners fattened her up then I got her. I love her to bits, but when I get to the stable in the morning to give her her breakfast and put her out if I go and speak to her over the door, she pins her ears back and bites the wall and stomps her front feet at me if I go in the stable she will turn away from me so I stand quietly till she comes back over to me. I know she doesn’t mean it, but why is she getting so angry with me? I don’t want it to get worse.

Also, today I thought I would get the poo picked up out the field while she was in the field just to see how she behaved. She followed me round but kept rolling near me what does this mean? She just worries me, she seems to be quite aggressive sometimes and I wondered what rolling near me meant. She will also nip me as I change her rug or brush her and bites me when I pick her front feet up, her ears aren’t back. I can’t say she’s being aggressive to me. I don’t want to smack her as everyone else tells me to because she’s obviously been smacked before and I don’t want her to be frightened of me. If a horse is nipping, is it always really bad as they will nip each other in the field? Is she just communicating with me? Please help me with any advice; I would be so grateful.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question and for your thorough explanation as to the remedial behavior of your horse. It is clear to me that you have not read From My Hands to Yours nor have you visited lessons on my Equus Online Uni. Many of the behavioral traits you have described here have been answered on lots of occasions, but that is what I am here for.

Please check with your veterinarian that she is healthy. Ruling that out and looking at the behaviors, there is a clear suspicion in my mind that your horse has been fed from the hand. This is a process which damages behavior greatly. I further suspect your horse has been hit in the area of the muzzle for the biting, another forbidden activity in my regime.

You may have a skin-sensitive horse. For grooming and for picking up the feet, she should be secured with a fairly short tie and then these procedures should be conducted with soft tools and a soft hand also.

All feeding while the horse is in the stall should be eliminated. When the horse is outside, place the feed in the stable and then bring your horse to that stable to find the feed. Leave your horse alone during the feeding time. The unacceptable behavior you have described is because your horse is exhibiting territorial protection.

As to the rolling near you in the field, I can only suggest your horse is itchy and wants to roll. I would further surmise your horse is very comfortable in your presence. The act of rolling in the wild is seldom done without a lookout horse present. A lone wild horse is easy prey for any of the larger predators. She is relying on you for protection.

4/26/2017: I re-homed a 7-year-old Irish Cob gelding. Doing well in hand following your lessons. Riding introduced, first wouldn’t go, then wouldn’t stop and has bolted twice, thankfully in a confined area.

Bolted, through fear I think, in indoor lesson and on lunge with instructor, races away at gallop then bucks when at area limits as if pack of wild dogs might still be there! Then looks to check, and relaxes. Seems like a prey reaction to me, but instructor thinks he needs sending away to relearn that riding is OK. Can anyone talk to me and advise?

Monty’s Answer: In processing your question, let me say that I have dealt with this behavior with a huge number of horses. If I were to see the action you describe, obviously I could answer with more certainty but it seems evident to me that fear and the flight impulse is responsible for this behavior. I have many recommendations where this problem is concerned, and early on I would suggest keeping your feet on the ground.

If you have read my books you know that I do not abide by single line lunging. I would double lunge in a relatively confined area until your horse can be guided by the lines without moments of fear and flight. At that time I would begin to add objects that drag behind. Each of these small objects should be attached to a saddle, a girth or a surcingle and fixed with a bow knot so that you can immediately trip them away from your horse at a safe distance.

Bolting in the manner that you describe has often been on my list to solve. I would recommend that you seek advice from one of my certified instructors near you. You will find a list and a location for them on my website. It is my desire to keep you safe. This is probably not a difficult behavior to overcome but staying safe in the process of dealing with it is absolutely essential.

4/18/2017: I have a 17-hand sports x draft horse who every time we go to canter throws his head down snatching the reins away leaving me with no control, no neck or head in front me. How can I stop him doing this? I’ve have come to a dead end and don’t know what to do. Help please.

Monty’s Answer: Remembering that horses are into pressure animals, this remedial behavior simply supports that concept. We humans must understand that the horse needs to be trained to come off pressure rather than push into it. It is clear to me your horse simply controls your hands so that he is not impeded by your desire to control his direction and speed.

It is critical that you select a bit that has appropriate leverage so as to produce discomfort when he demands freedom from the reins. My system for encouraging the horse to yield involves the use of a surcingle with the necessary rings so as to enable you to stable your horse with the bit and surcingle in place then tighten the reins to achieve some flexing.

It is my position that the horse will learn with about 20 minutes of reining as described per day. This method will allow your horse to find comfort by flexing at the pole and discomfort when pushing into the bit. Twenty minutes is sufficient and longer than that may cause them to simply stand, pushing into the discomfort rather than backing off of it.

When riding, be respectful of freedom on the reins as much as possible. When asking for flexion, use your hands to create cooperation if he tries to push through. One might stop and back up to create a negative instant consequence and then ride on with relaxed reins. Many riders hold too forcefully in my opinion but the world is changing. I address this in my textbook From My Hands to Yours and also in video lessons on my Equus Online University.

4/12/2017: I’m having problems teaching “standing still.” When I move away from his side to stand in front, he walks forward as well, as this is what we teach. Is there a vocal or physical cue that I’m missing to ensure my horse understand the difference between walk forward and stand still?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for this question. It is my opinion that schooling to stand still is a specialty of mine. One can look up the supreme champion of England that came to me as a horse that wouldn’t stand still. I went to work with my Dually Halter and in one day I set him on a course for which he not only was supreme champion of the UK, but became an international champion as well.

The Dually Halter is a fantastic tool in this exercise. One should remember that your eyes mean everything to the horse you intend to convince to stand still. When you go out in front of the horse you should be looking in the eye with at least one finger extended on the hand that controls the lead. Square your shoulders and give the horse the choice to move, but only a couple of steps.

Keeping the horse from moving is not the answer. Allow the horse to make a mistake, wait until he has taken 2-3 steps and then use the Dually Halter to cause the horse to back up to the original spot where he was asked to stand still. Only allow your horse to move and walk with you when you have taken a step to one side and then cross the horses body axis, asking him to move forward. You can find these lessons here: http://www.montyrobertsuniversity.com/training/2031188394

4/5/2017:
Hi, my name is Sophie and I’m currently in my second to last year of high school. I was wondering, do you class what you do as natural horsemanship?
I’m hoping to do a project on the pros and cons of traditional versus natural horsemanship next year.

Monty’s Answer: Let me attempt to help you by explaining that there is no such thing on the face of this earth as natural horsemanship. The nature of the horse is to live on vast open grassy areas. They are flight animals living in family groups. Horses are not only constructed to live as herbivores but they also have a mindset which includes only two goals for their life.

Goal #1 is to survive and Goal #2 is to reproduce. Nature has constructed Equus to be hyper-vigilant with acute hearing, eyesight and the ability to smell the potentials for predation. For us to catch the horse, remove him from the wide open areas and isolate him away from his family is as unnatural as anything could be.

To put a halter on a horse is unnatural. The same goes for the saddle, the lead rope and certainly for the human body. The knowing horseman will take into consideration that we are interfering with nature so as to create an animal which will partner with us for any given discipline without hesitation or refusal. The question is how do we do that.

It should be understood that traditional horsemanship took place for 6000 years. Virtually all traditional horsemanship included large measures of violence. It was typically called ‘breaking the horse’. This was often conducted by tying the horse’s head to a fixed object and then creating actions through stimulus referred to as “sacking out.”

The fact is, these actions often worked. The horse’s will to fight was broken. They did what the horseman wanted them to do, not necessarily because they wanted to, but because they were afraid not to. Champions were created with the traditional methods but remember they only had to compete with other individuals that were trained the same.

The evidence of these actions go back as far as carvings in the cave. These facts progressed through books written in several languages dating back to the time of Xenophon about 431 BC. I was born in 1935 and I saw traditional horsemanship embracing the descriptions I have given you all around me.

In the modern world there is very little chance for horses to roam the grassy plains in their family groups. It is foolish to believe that we could simply just release them, take down the fences and let them run wild. I believe that horses should be used by human beings creating a partnership, not a slave-master relationship.

It is my opinion that we can live with horses without violence and with proper communication we can cause these wonderful animals to want to do what we are asking of them. I firmly believe that my concepts are responsible for producing dozens of champions without the use of violence of any kind. This is my life’s goal.

Is it natural horsemanship? Many people would say it is. I would term it to be non-violent horsemanship designed to create a partnership, always to request and never to demand. I am still traveling the world in an attempt to convince traditional horsemen to reject violence and learn my methods. The world is changing quite rapidly.

3/29/2017: I’ve read where you discovered and share why ‘clucking’ or ‘kissing’ to the horse helps encourage forward movement from the horse. I think it is like an impulsion to their senses. I have never heard why horses respond to a different type of sound to encourage stopping or standing still.

Monty’s Answer: It pleases me to answer this question since I have just completed reading a book written by an accomplished psychiatrist called Peter Levine. While I’ve always known that horses respond to low, guttural sounds for stopping, and the high pitch sounds cause them to go faster, I really didn’t know why this happened until I read Peter Levine’s book, “In An Unspoken Voice.”

If you are familiar with a lot of my writings, you will know I have extensively studied behavioral sciences. This question calls upon a behavior conducted because of certain sounds. I am able to control and/or reduce my pulse rate, adrenalin levels and cortisol levels through an action termed diaphragmatic breathing. All horsemen should learn to execute this form of relaxation.

Dr. Levine points out that diaphragmatic breathing can be enhanced as a reducer of pulse rate by adding a certain word through your voice box. He recommends VOOOOO. Soon after I read this, I got my pressure cuff on and tried out his VOOOOO. Amazingly I discovered a greater reduction in blood pressure and pulse rate when I added his guttural sound. It really worked.

People who practice yoga will make the sound of Ohmmmm, and I now know why they use it. The VOOOOO causes me to understand that it lengthens my vocal chords and immediately vibrates my entire respiratory system. It seems to allow for a greater relaxation of the entire human anatomy. I improved my ability to lower my pulse rate when I added the VOOOOO to the scenario.

All of this is to say that when riders say “Whoa” they are utilizing this very phenomenon. I am certain that any horse could learn to stop on VOOOOO just as quickly as they learn on Whoa. Remember the horses are animals of synchronicity. Sitting down in the saddle and using such words will encourage the horse to relax and slow down and stop. Any rider could make up his or her own word cue.

It is fun to keep learning. It is my opinion that there is still a lot to learn and just when I think I know just about everything about horses I learn something new. Over time when I learn something new it tends to open the doors for even more learning. Horses have been the victim of harsh treatment all too long. It is time to take a breath, step back, keep it simple and work on your ability to learn more about your horses.

3/22/2017: I recently lost my beautiful Arab. I had owned him for 13 years and he reached a grand age of 26. I miss him terribly. I wasn’t looking for another one, however I found one. Straight out of a racing yard, three-year-old Ikraamm, out of Champion racer Street Cry Son of Machiavellian bred in the USA. Ikraamm is 15.3hh gelding. I have now had him at home for three weeks. I have ridden him everyday out hacking, and he is a very relaxed chilled out guy.

I have read ALL your books and watched many videos. I wish to do Join-Up and use all your techniques with him. I do not have a round pen nor do I have an arena to do Join-Up, however I am on the look out for some kind of second-hand pen.

In the last week or so he has started to get very aggressive at times with (usually) me. Feed times he is worse, but he will put his ears flat back at me and come at me with teeth or back legs and he turns his backside on me if I enter the stable if I try to take his hay net or fill up his water. I have to have one eye on him in case he comes at me. I have tried ignoring him or waving my hands to get him to go away but he comes back. I will not hit him as some people have told me to do. What can I do? It is getting to the point were my dad is having to go in and get his hay net down and change his rugs. I am only 5’1, so not very tall not that it is relevant.

When I have attempted to lunge him he turns his back end on me and tries to kick me. I feel that if I took him in the round pen he would come at me teeth or legs. How can I discipline him correctly without myself or him getting injured.

I realize this is most probably me that is now giving off vibes of negativity to him because I am expecting him to come at me. It is extremely hard for me to not think that when he has flown at me so many times. What can I do? Please help, as I want to stop this whilst he’s young before it gets worse.

I have had so many people suggesting old school methods of disciplining him such as hitting him on the nose, hitting him in the face, taking a broom in the stable and tapping his leg or shoulder… I don’t want to do any of these things as I want to do your methods. I do not want to create a head shy or nervous horse.

Any advice will be hugely appreciated.

Monty’s Answer:

Thank you for your question. This is a question I receive quite often about aggressive behavior. Please let me lead off by saying that your safety and your health are absolutely paramount in answering this question. A gelding that has become aggressive is fairly rare. Colts will have testosterone and the female Equus is far more often aggressive than the gelding ever is.

There are several aspects to your question that give me pause. Your reference to the loose box or stable caused me to raise one eyebrow. When you added the word ‘feed’ to it the other eye brow popped up. Before going into my recommendations let me suggest to you that there is a strong possibility that this is not the right horse for you. The last thing I ever want is a message that you have been injured or worse.

A gelding with this remedial problem should never, ever be fed in the stable. One can ‘feed’ his box. There was no mention about how much time he spends away from the stable so that concerns me as well. An aggressive gelding should spend as much time in the field as he does in the stable. One should always feed the stable without the horse, with this behavior in mind.

One should remember that horses were designed to live on vast open grassland where they can see great distances in every direction. The modern day world tends to house them in small enclosures and feed them twice per day. This encourages all horses to become territorial. They will attempt to protect their territory.

Do not strike your horse under any circumstances, no matter the advice you get. Causing pain will only exacerbate the problem. My next and last recommendation is that you seek the help of one of my certified instructors. The Suffolk area would not be so far for some of them to travel. The contacts are here: http://www.montyroberts.com/certified-instructors-page/

I would also recommend my Equus Online University for general lessons in handling bad ground manners: http://www.montyrobertsuniversity.com/library

When you feel unsafe, stop, get help and inform me.

3/15/2017: I would like to start by thanking you for everything you have taught me! I have been on your Equus Online University for four months now and have completed over 430 lessons and I love it. My partnerships with my horses are flourishing and I am seeing improvements everywhere! Thank you again!

I adopted two ponies from RSPCA in June last year, they have been growing and recovering from a harsh start to life. They were a part of a herd of over 50 horses on a property where there was not enough feed and no running water – the owners were carting water in for them using buckets.. safe to say they were never going to keep up with that… The ponies were extremely underweight! I don’t believe they were ever physically abused but they just weren’t looked after properly. They are two complete opposites! The filly is extremely friendly and always first to see you and follows you everywhere! The gelding is very stand offish and until the last week was VERY hard to catch.

Four days ago we had a huge turn around and he is finally catching me! I watched your video on ‘Join-Up with Polo’ and ‘The hard to catch horse’ and I believe the trick of leaving the pellets at the rail so when he is tied up and getting a brush he finds them, was a huge help!

In mid December I hopped on him for the first time as his first rider. He took it well and I have been happy with his progress, he had a week break over Christmas and new years as we were away and I got back on him last week, he was concerned so I didn’t push it and got off him when he was relaxed and asked my husband to come out and lead me around again the next day while he got his confidence back. We did that the next day and he felt much better. The day after that I had my husband there again just to start me off and he was fine this time however he started swinging around and going to bite my left leg or stirrup.

He can occasionally look like he is going to bite me when being lead – opens his mouth and moves mouth towards me, but he has never done it while I was in the saddle. I don’t feed him out of my hand and I ensure his pellets are sitting there when he gets them at the rail. I also noticed that on the ground he was doing this more often after this ride.. The day after he was exactly the same! I checked over his left (near) side as that is the only side he does it to and there are no out of place sensitivities.. I have tried tapping with my right leg while in the saddle to distract him but it didn’t seem to make a difference. I also tried stopping him and backing him up but no change there either. On the ground I also tried the leg tap or coronet band pressure but he only ever seems to do it when I am walking away.

I do see him play bite with a gelding in his paddock a lot and I am wondering is he getting more comfortable with me and maybe trying to play? The older gelding that he plays with bit a friend of mine a couple weeks back and has never bitten before or since and no other horse bites on the property.

I have been squaring my shoulders and sending him away through my body language if he does it while I am on the ground when he doesn’t have his halter on or when he does have his halter I school him if he does it but I’m not yet seeing a difference.

Am I on the right track or do you have any tips to help! Should I maybe separate the two playing geldings?

The filly is progressing really well and has no issues with biting or anything for that matter!

Thank you again for all you do! Your Equus Online University is amazing and I thank you for making it so affordable!

Monty’s Answer: After reading the scenario you have so clearly described, I have to say that you are extremely unusual. There is virtually always a clear mistake that people are making or the absence of one of the procedures I recommend. In your case, it appears to me as I read it, that you are doing everything I have outlined.

Obviously I am not there with you when these things happen and perhaps, if I were to be there, I might see additional procedures you could use. But, as this is outlined, you are doing the right things. Since the horses I have worked with that expressed the same behavior you have described have all improved, I have to say that there is a way to do it. I just can’t see it from my vantage point. Let me emphasize that schooling with the Dually Training halter to get precise cooperation is critically important.

3/8/2017: Firstly I must say how much I love your methods. Without a Dually Halter I don’t think I would have achieved so much with my ex-racehorse that I am retraining for dressage (and jumping, and hacking out).

However we do have an issue with loading on my horsebox. Lucy pretends she can’t step onto the ramp. She plants, changes the subject (oh, look at that tree over there, that’s an interesting sky etc etc!) It is very difficult to get her unstuck.

Stick with bags lifted behind her worked for a while, then running the bags over her rump and down her back legs worked. Then tickling her chest worked. A couple of times holding the stick and bags behind her and guiding her to the ramp (and up) has worked. I always use a Dually Halter and a 20 foot line. Sometimes simple pressure and release works. Sometimes walking her in a circle gets her energy up sufficiently that she then almost leads me up the ramp.

I’ve tried leading her over poles, small logs, halting, backing up, all to get her engaged. This works some times but not always.

When she is ready to load there is no stopping her, but until she is ready it is like leading her through glue! She jumps onto the ramp and then canters up it. She can’t step on and walk.

Once I’ve got her on the first time, loading after that is easy (on that day). But she always jumps onto the ramp and canters up. However, the next time we are back to square one.

I’ve tried practicing every day, I’ve tried only loading her when we’re going anywhere. Sometimes she has several good sessions loading and I think we’ve got it sorted, other times it almost seems to make it worse.

She travels really well – I have to take extra hay rations as I can guarantee that most of her hay will be gone by the time we arrive for competition or training.
Often she will refuse to come off the lorry, enjoying the views from up high!

I would like to try somehow raising the ramp so it’s not so steep, but am unsure how to do that as it needs to be very strong to take the weight of the ramp, but then would also need to be moveable so I can move it out of the way so I can move the lorry when we get back home. And the step up needs to be reduced. It’s not that much – my other horses manage, but not Lucy!

Interestingly my other mare will only load for me – she was harshly treated before I got her eleven years ago and she really only trusts me. My gelding was terrified, but using pressure and release, leading forwards, backing up he will now load and travels well. Any suggestions would be gratefully received.

Monty’s Answer: I have read your question with great interest. It moves me to want to be there to see exactly what you are doing and the responses of your horse. Years of experience have trained me to process the human word and I have gotten pretty good at determining potential problems that are only inferred by the words I read. Having logged each of your sentences it is my opinion that you have not successfully trained the horse to the Dually Halter.

I have trained thousands of horses to the Dually and I know what they do when I get it right. Your question tells me that your horse is not respecting the Dually. Please study the use of the Dually, your timing, and be firm in your positive consequences and the negative consequences communicated to your horse.

In addition I feel that there has not been enough loading on and off. It is my opinion for a sustained period of time your horse should be loaded and allowed to eat a handful of sweet feed from the manger and then unloaded. Every horse will eventually learn to walk in calmly and exit calmly if they are indeed familiar with the routine you create.

I don’t know your trailer but I would prefer unloading through the front if at all possible. It is my opinion that the respect for the Dually Hater is the primary issue in this case. Create a resolution within yourself until there is perfection in your horse’s response to the Dually.

2/27/2017: I’m at a bit of a loss as to what to do with my six-year-old mare. She seems to lack confidence in herself when out hacking, she sees and hears everything that’s going on. Getting her to concentrate on me is a real mission. She seems fine with things that would spook other horses i.e. people up ladders working, diggers etc but dead ferns in the hedge are really terrifying! We have an inkling that narrow places and wider spaces are the main problem areas, if we’re on a lane that’s wide enough for a car to pass comfortably she’s happy and will walk out with confidence, as soon as it narrows or widens too much she becomes almost withdrawn and starts to panic.

A couple of months ago I started to work on stopping her napping going out of my yard with considerable success, so she’s happy to leave it’s now the bits in the middle. Some places we go I can see why she gets worried, we have a bridge to cross and the parapets are about hock height on her, so that’s kind of understandable. A friend comes with us on foot for her to lean on when really needed which probably isn’t the best idea but the mare would run backwards in a panic, now she’s calmer with my friend around. Any advice would be gratefully can received.

Monty’s Answer: This is an interesting question and it calls for a bilateral solution. One is that the scenario you’ve described would encourage me to explore your horse’s vision. Several references in this scenario makes me worry a bit about your horse not being able to see things clearly. I am not a veterinarian and I feel that the potential for this to be a problem with vision is probably a low percentage. It is true however that it can be the case and should be eliminated before discussing hands on training problems.

Its always advisable to start these conversations by encouraging you to achieve Join-Up with your horse, if you haven’t done so already. This builds trust between you both. Having said that, it occurs to me that if I were in your position I would ride my horse in a safe area where the negative behavior occurs so I could somehow put the horse to work vigorously.

I prefer cantering in small circles and I am thinking this may be possible if one could ride near an hedge where the potential for putting this horse to work in an open field is available to me. There are two aspects of this method that have worked well for me in the past. One is to create a distraction with the work so that the horse sees the problem and then vacates that concern by getting ready to go to work. The other aspect is that the horse views the work as a negative instant consequence and decides that the scary object is not as scary as they first thought they were.

2/22/2017: Mare chews on reins or slobber straps: My seven-year-old mare is obnoxiously obsessive about trying to chew on the leather slobber straps or reins. I have to unclip the reins just to get the loose ring snaffle in her mouth as she is so bad. Can’t use mecate reins that are so popular without slobber straps. She is an Anglo-Arab mare very Thoroughbred looking except for her Arabian teacup muzzle. I used your heavier bits successfully on my quarter horses but she relaxes with a bit that is lighter weight. Any idea as to make her quit the gnaw factor.

*Monty’s Answer: Everybody who has ever had a horse, has experienced some level of the horse’s desire to chew on leather. Some horses are far worse than others and it seems that the habit depends on whether they have no negative consequences for doing the chewing. Some people will resort to slapping their nose or yanking the rein from their mouth. Either of these decisions will have more negative consequences than positive ones.

When I was very young there was no modern day substances in aerosol containers and so we often used hot chili marinated in a bit of vegetable oil and simply coated the reins with the a rag that we kept in the tack room. Today there are advanced substances that are extremely effective in solving this problem. Recently I was schooling a Thoroughbred yearling to accept the starting stalls (starting gate) that he would be asked to use later in life.

Of the 19 young horses I had to school, only one decided that the metal doors were a delectable 5-star entree. He would literally rake his teeth and if he managed to get near the padding, that was the best dessert he could imagine. The local tack shop had one of these new aerosol containers with a substance that when sprayed on the target areas, immediately ceased all attempts to devour them.

These remedies come with all sorts of names and are different depending on the country you are in but I can guarantee they are effective. If you choose to, you could go back to the chili in the vegetable oil but I think the newfangled idea is better. One can repeat this process on lead ropes and tie racks too. I am seeing a lessening of the habit when the action of chewing is not allowed in general.

2/15/2017: I need help with my 13-month-old foal. His hormones are taking over and he can get aggressive. How do I handle it? I block him and tell him back, but once he’s decided to shake his head around and wants to bite nothing is stopping him.

Monty’s Answer: First let me say that your 13-month-old yearling is only doing what is natural. Age 13 months for the horse is very similar to 13 years for the adolescent human. If your young horse is an orphan, it tends to increase the potential for this behavior. If your young horse has been loved and coddled and treated like a human child, it also increases the potential for aggressive behavior.

A further example of exacerbating this problem is if your young horse has been fed from the hand, this is the outcome. Your question immediately causes me to suspect that one or more of these negative habits has trained your horse to bite. I don’t know whether castration has been completed or considered but it should be instantaneous. If any one of the negative human habits has taken place with this youngster then we can state categorically that he is trained to bite.

These negative behavior patterns will persist and worsen unless you first take immediate actions to eliminate them. Then study the methods I use to create good ground manners and eventually you might just have a chance to reorganize the patterns of this youngster so that he will eventually be a pleasure to work with.

2/8/2017: I sincerely hope this message reaches you. I am British and been a horse girl all of my life. I first watched you in County Durham, England in 1996 and I’ve used and promoted your language Equus ever since, so I’ve admired your work for over 20 years.

I became a high school teacher at Whitley Bay High school and brought many students to see your demonstrations over the years as part of our extra curricular programs I would run voluntarily. You once sent me a thank you note and a copy of your book, which I still have and treasure.

I am now married to an American serviceman and live in Idaho, USA. I brought my three horses with me from England. I’ve watched quite closely over the years your veteran programme become a more important part of your work and legacy and firstly I’d like to thank you for this. My husband has had several deployments and is now still in the Idaho National Guard in Boise. We live on about 12 acres in a nearby farm.

My question to you is, as a military wife and life-long horsewoman, how can I get involved to help the veteran program you run? I no longer teach high school since leaving England 18 months ago but I still have a great desire to make a difference. Now that I’m a military family and am aware of the affects of war on our servicemen and women, I’d like to help somehow.

Monty’s Answer: To follow your career as outlined in your correspondence is very interesting for me. It isn’t often that I receive communication that brings together such a wide collection of interesting circumstances. It pleases me greatly to hear of your long time interest in my work. With regard to the military aspect, let me welcome you to investigate as I will suggest.

The first thing that I would recommend is that you continue to study the concepts in my books and in my Equus Online University containing the principles which I have found assist those of us who suffer Post Traumatic Stress which may occur for many reasons, not simply military. I would further suggest you continue to communicate with us so that you might come on a course to edify you as to Join-Up® and its therapeutic affect on this who suffer from Post Traumatic Stress.

2/1/2017: I bought a new horse mid-October and I think I am out of my league with him. He’s a 12 year old, 17.1h sports-bred gelding, currently competing in national level jumping competitions. Under saddle and once tacked up, he is the nicest horse in the world and I have developed a very strong bond with him, on my part at least. As I suffer from anxiety attacks, I sometimes completely lose my nerve and he is a calm, patient teacher to ride as much in the show ring as at home.

The problem is, when loose or on his headcollar, he is dangerous. I have known snappy and unhappy horses, but he is something entirely different and does actually scare me despite my best efforts to remain calm and assertive without ever showing aggression or violence.

He has a history of having been abused but has worked out how to fight back and win against people. He can go from looking relaxed (loose bottom lip, soft eye, sideways ears), to twisting around and attacking his handler. He had a full vet check when I bought him and I do not believe that it is pain but more that he is expecting to be hurt.

One thing that we have all noticed about him is that immediately after showing aggression, he sticks his tongue out of the side of his mouth and curls it around (Not just the tip, but as far out as he can put it before curling it up). I am still attempting to get a picture or video of his behavior. Is this his way of exhibiting how much stress he feels he is under?

When loose or in his stable, it is any time that he is approached apart from when being caught that he will attack. For example I can walk up to him without so much as a grimace if I am putting his headcollar on, but if I need to do anything else, he will go for me. I know it is because he is reading my intentions By attacking I do not mean lays his ears back or simply nips, but he will launch himself forwards and grab any part of a person he can reach with all his strength.

Though he scares me, I am quite prepared to keep working with him. I don’t believe in giving up because I am not experienced enough, I made a commitment in buying him and I want to do my best to learn to handle him. The last thing I want is to have to give him up, as I know it will end with him being destroyed or being locked inside for the rest of his life. I am not an expert but what I can say is that he is not happy with the way he feels he has to behave. There is a very good, clever horse in there and he deserves to be happier than he currently is.

My biggest fear is that if he hurts me then the matter will be out of my hands and he will be put to sleep, and I do not believe that it is right or fair that he lose his life because of how people have made him behave. I have tried working on a basis of quietness and mutual respect, but I worry that it is not enough. He responds to the Dually halter very nicely, moving with me perfectly through everything I ask of him, so it is not just a plain lack of respect all around, but more that he gets ‘triggered’.

When working on touching his ‘trigger spots’ in the Dually halter, he is tense and rigid but will allow me to work with him. He has very good ‘social skills’ with other horses (his body language is easy for anyone to read), but I honestly do not have the confidence to do Join-Up with him as I am pretty certain that he would attack me.

Taking him to one of your Recommended Associates is no longer an option as the one who was within a feasible distance (who actually started my other horse) has since moved country. Please, what can I do to help him? Is there any way that I can make his life one that he enjoys, rather than living in fear?

Monty’s Answer: Please sit down and think this situation through using a calm mind and analytical approach. Understand that when I answer these questions I must be responsible, honest and informative all at the same time. There is a huge responsibility when giving advice about an aggressive horse. The scenario you have beautifully outlined would cause me to believe that I would not want to deal with this horse myself.

That being the case, how can I justify giving you recommendations when I wouldn’t take the chance of working with this horse myself. If you were not the one who used abusive and violent procedures that caused this animal to forever experience flashbacks, then how could we ever justify you being injured as a result of one of his flashbacks. You have clearly described a horse that is impossible to predict. Consequently there is a high probability that you will eventually suffer the consequences of his negative actions.

One aspect that I would like you to consider is that horses of this type will virtually always put someone in the hospital or the grave. When this circumstance occurs, it is Equus in general that will be blamed. In the emergency rooms of this world, horses are a red letter culprit when it comes to dangerous activities. We should be mindful of the fact that this is the case under the best conditions, which gives us no right to risk the clear scenario that you have outlined in your question.

Fully appreciating your desire to see it through, I feel for you in your desire to save his life. Please allow me to feel a sense of responsibility when it comes to saving yours. I believe your description to be honest and fair and if that is the case then none of us has any right to advise another to take the chances you have so clearly outlined.

I could write a book on the chances I have taken in my career and the extra effort that I have exerted to save the lives of aggressive horses. Experience and thousands of horses have caused me to answer this question the way I have. My best recommendation is that you join with me in recognizing the terrible effect that violence can have on the flight animal. Become a spokesperson for changing the traditional horse training methods many of which have utilized violence. You will be doing every horse a great favor.

1/25/2017: Horse Trailer Loading Difficulty: The mare is a 24-year-old Arab-Highland cross and is 14.2hh. She has loaded well, with only slight hesitations, into an Ifor-Williams trailer (head space for two 16.3hh horses) a couple of times before.

This particular time she loaded well on the journey out but on the return trip she flatly refused to load. She approached the ramp to within about 6 feet and stopped, backed up some distance and planted herself with body leaning back and legs bracing forward. The only way to get her to move forward was to put her on a circle and within the circles moving closer to the trailer. When she was within the 6ft distance of the ramp the backing-up scenario started again. Eventually she was willing to at least stand near the ramp so we then had to physically lift each leg forward step by step onto the ramp and into the trailer. This whole episode took three of us close to one hour.

The question really is: is she afraid of being transported in the trailer, hence the refusal to load for the return journey, or is she simply being extremely stubborn? Traveling takes about 20 to 30 minutes and she does come off the trailer very slightly damp on her neck but looks totally calm when off loading.

This episode took place on open moorland so any artificial help such as walls or other implements are non-existent. A halter which tightens across the nose when pressure is applied is used but seems to have no effect on her mental determination not to be loaded.

On behalf of all of us, horse, rider and helpers, I thank you for your input into this quandary.
Kindest regards,
Mrs. Verena McConnel

Monty’s Answer: There is no way for me to clearly express to you how often I hear the scenario you have just outlined. Respectfully allow me to say to you that there is one major mistake in how you address the problem. The statement I am referring to is the one where you say “the only way” to get her to come forward. Clearly it wasn’t the only way because your description does not include my way.

My Equus Online University and my From My Hands to Yours textbook and my live demonstrations are loaded with the answers to this dilemma. Please remember that I have received more than 2800 non-loaders in my live demonstrations. One should also be aware of the fact that I have had no failures. With that in mind let me say to you that there are many, many ways to come by the needed information.

One might ask, “Do you think your horse would have loaded for me?” The most often heard response is ‘Of Course! But that is just you.’ Believe me – it is not just me. I have more than 80 instructors globally now and each can duplicate my loading procedures. You indicate that the loading took place in a wide open area with no alternatives available. This is a dilemma that one should, at all times, try to avoid. Learning to load properly should be accomplished in an environment with facilities appropriate to handling the difficult horse.

Please use these educational opportunities, school your horse to the Dually Halter and then come back to me with the results. Schooling with the Dually at home utilizing tarpaulins, mock bridges and difficult objects under foot, will enhance your horses responses to the Dually. Remember please that your horse is just a horse and no matter what the difficulties are where loading is concerned your horse will handle these challenges if properly prepared.

1/18/2017: I hope you can give me some advice please, I have a four-year-old Appaloosa mare from a stud farm. She never had much human contact, the problem is I am trying to lunge her but she keeps turning into me when I try to lunge in outdoor school. I did get her to follow my fiancé in a circle to get her used to my commands. Should I continue using my other half to walk in front of her or do you have any other ideas?

Monty’s Answer: After reading your question twice I have made the decision that you are single line lunging. Please utilize my Equus Online University to discover how I feel about this activity. I have often said that single line lunging is the second worst piece of horsemanship on earth. It follows only striking the horse for pain.

There are so many reasons why single line lunging is off my list of accepted procedures. They are clearly defined in my textbook, From My Hands to Yours, and demonstrated on our Equus Online Uni in the clearest possible way. Give you fiancé a break and learn the procedures that will assist you in executing a perfect circle.

1/11/2017: I recently saw footage of a demo you did riding a Western horse where you removed the bridle to show he would yawn and that you believe this is a sign of the horse being relaxed and that they wouldn’t do so with high adrenaline.

I have a horse who (when I bought him at 9 years of age) had a blind wolf tooth on one side which was slightly further forward than normal position, and I therefore assume would have interfered with the bit at some point. The curious thing is that having had the tooth removed the horse now yawns repeatedly and very expressively before and after I put the bridle/bit on. I am curious why the horse yawns before being bitted as well as after? Initially I worried that the yawning was a sign of stress/worry or similar but it makes sense about the adrenaline when you said people do not yawn on TV.

Generally putting the Dually halter on and off the horse does not exhibit the same behavior, only when I have the bridle ready to put on?

Thank you for your help and for everything you do for horses. I love your Equus Online Uni and have learned so much, please keep adding lessons.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your interesting question. If one traces the root motivation for any of the body maneuvers we express, the yawn is a very interesting subject. I clearly recall my professors describing the yawn as an activity with which to increase the oxygen supply to the brain. It makes sense to me that we typically yawn when we are sleepy. It most often occurs when we are attempting to not sleep.

Scientists state that when we fight off sleep, we are taking oxygen from the brain and so we conduct the yawn to replace it. Any application of the yawn to conditions of stress would be strange to me. Your question as to the yawn connected with the introduction or removal of the bit and bridle is totally unknown to me. I will watch closely for any signs that educate me to this condition.

1/4/2017: I was at your first demo at Stoneleigh many years ago, and have so much en-joyed your Books, and Demos ever since, I wear your baseball hat walking with my dog and playing with my horses. It has all been the most wonderful journey with you, MANY, MANY, THANKS, from me and my fantastic horses, and all the other horses that have benefited from your life’s work. We have someone working in our recently planted woodland at the moment, logging with his 2 horses and he has booked to attend your Demo, here in England on November 5th, he can’t wait. My question is can you do Join-Up with donkeys?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your kind words. I have done Join-Up® with donkeys before. They are so intelligent that they are extremely difficult but once a donkey has joined up with you, he is a friend for life, if treated fairly. Often people act out with laughter and/or aggressive moves thinking they’re having fun with a donkey when, in actual fact, it is offensive to the animal.

I am a great fan of donkeys and mules. They have incredible minds that exceed virtually all of our horses. My position is that donkeys are more intelligent than horses, especially in the areas of self-preservation. They have less of a flight mechanism and usually assess first where horses will flee and then assess. They have a reputation for being stubborn but I have always taken the position that they are smarter than the people who are trying to make them do something.

12/28/2016: I hope you can help as I have a very nervous, untrusting horse. He’s a 15.2hh colored Trotter cross I have gained after the last year total trust with him and he is actually completely different from when we first met. When he feels threatened or scared he tends too hide behind me. I’ve got him to the stage now where I can lunge with full tack and no problem, I have also stood on a mounting block and leaned over his back but I am now at the stage where I feel a little nervous to completely sit on his back.

As I don’t want to ruin or destroy all the trust that we have gained with it goes potentially wrong and never be able too feel the love, trust and bond that we currently have as he is very special too me. Even though I have previously owned many horses, he has definitely stolen my heart for some strange reason.

I have photographs showing severe neglect where he was obviously starved and apparently beaten for a year or two of his life which made him mentally scarred, please can you help? As I would love nothing more than to enjoy beach rides and the rest of his life peacefully I have noticed that you are in Guildford, Surrey, England in October which is very close too where we live and wondered if he could either be a potential candidate as an example for your show but also solving this issue.

Monty’s Answer: Allow me to say that you and your horse represent the absolute “bulls eye” where my career is concerned. It is my obsession to help owners such as yourself and horses such as the one you have described. Without blaming you for anything, let me say that far too high a percentage of owners with great similarity to you make mistakes in the area that you are about to enter. The results of their errors can certainly cause serious problems. Virtually always the horse is the one who receives the criticism.

Let me answer in a very positive way that I would enjoy seeing your horse and meeting you on my upcoming March tour in England. If there is an opportunity to use your horse in the demonstration, I will do so. If your horse proves inappropriate for the demonstration itself I will promise to set up a work session to assist you and your horse in the hours preceding the arrival of the public. Please understand that your very situation is critically important to me and know that if your horse could speak it would be important to her too.

If it is possible for you to come with your horse, please apply using the form on the Intelligent Horsemanship website, indicating that you have spoken with me.

12/21/2016: I was wondering whether you could give me some advice. I am having some trouble with loading my Thoroughbred onto a horsebox or trailer. She rears up, goes backwards, and gets a bit strong and she’s in control of me. The other thing is she doesn’t like the noise of her feet touching the ramp. If you have any tips for me, I would love a bit of help with her, because she loves it when I do take her places but can’t get her to load so we don’t end up going, which I get very disappointed about.

Monty’s Answer: Each of my demonstration evenings concludes with a horse that “won’t load.” The reason I have chosen loading to be the last event is that it is very often chosen as the favorite segment of my demonstrations. We believe that one of the reasons loading gets high marks is that it is the #1 remedial problem on earth. Virtually everyone who has had a horse or two will have experienced refusing to load.

With this in mind, I have tried to make loading education an important part of my books, videos and public presentations. The Dually training halter is the centerpiece of the procedures I employ. A long line (10 meters) is also extremely important. Learning the incremental steps to create a desire within the horse to load is essential when we choose NOT to use violence and keep our horses as cooperative as possible.

Most horses resist walking on unfamiliar surfaces. A wooden panel similar to a bridge is a good way to cause the horse to walk on a wooden surface without resistance. One must realize that narrow pathways are also helpful. Horses do not like to enter a dark space, particularly one that is surrounded by metallic walls. If one thinks for a moment, it becomes clear that that description fits the trailer quite well.

Please accept my invitation to look up as much information as you can from me about loading. It is one of my favorite problems to solve. Do not forget that we have an Equus Online University with more than 400 lessons on it, and there is a mountain of information that is important to you regarding the elements necessary for non-violent loading. Please keep us posted as to your progress and we wish you the best of luck.

12/14/2016: My daughter has recently purchased a five-year-old, very green Arabian. He follows her around the pasture like a pet and when we try to work him in the round pen he will not lunge. She throws the lunge line to encourage him to move and he stands and looks at it. What are we doing wrong? If myself or my daughter walk in front of him he will follow but I do not think this is Join-Up the proper way.

I too grew up on a farm with a father that used to break horses like yours and I always hated the treatment! The ropes, hobbles, twitches etc. I did not know of your method until I was in my late thirties but I always sort of had the same idea as yours just not as refined.

If you have any suggestions on how to get this guy going I would truly appreciate it. I have just stated following your blog and you tube videos and hopefully I will come across something like we are dealing with now.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. It is with regularity that I receive correspondence from people who have difficulties with their horse that won’t go away from them. It does present us with a problem, but at the same time we have to congratulate the horseman who has generated a relationship with a horse whereby it prefers to be with you instead of away from you. I congratulate you for that.

My first response to your question is to suggest that you take a hard look at the body language you are using to achieve a natural flight process. Often times we become more familiar with our individual horse than we are about the communication system of the horse. Sometimes we think of our horses as close friends which tends to reduce our ability to communicate effectively with them.

Horses are flight animals and I feel strongly that they should not lose their natural instinct to flee. When I confront this particular situation I often use something that the horse considers a flight trigger. Plastic shipping bags on a bamboo stick or similar pole will activate the flight response if shaken in such a way so as to send the horse away from you. It has been effective for me.

Let me remind you that we have an Equus Online University with more than 400 lessons. I simply can’t remember how much information is there based upon the horse that doesn’t want to go away, but I am confident that it is covered. There is so much information on there for such a small cost that I recommend strongly you use the archived videos to acquire information across the spectrum of my concepts.

12/7/2016: Hi Monty, I have a horse communication question. I had a VHS tape from the eighties where you talk about horse’s language. One thing I can’t remember is when the horse is standing in cross tie’s or in the middle of a riding pen, saddled and starts to yawn and yawn, what are they really saying?

Monty’s Answer: The business of equine communication is not only an infant, it’s an embryo. The world has not yet allowed equine communication to be born, let alone be understood. I have jumped into the center of the storm, attempting to translate the silent gestures suggesting what they might mean by each one of these body language efforts. See my textbook, From My Hands to Yours, which includes a dictionary of Equus depicted through photos and illustrations. I am completely willing to encourage the study of this communication as long as possible.

In the world of biological sciences, the yawn is clearly defined as an act of taking in large amounts of air often because of fatigue. There are other thoughts but it appears that our brain needs more oxygen at the point where we involuntarily conduct the yawn. It will usually be accompanied by low adrenaline, low cortisol levels and a slow heart rate. Most people believe that we yawn because we are sleepy.

It is clear to me that horses yawn when their brain needs oxygen. We can take this in several directions because as humans we often yawn during states of boredom. Horses are, by their very nature, hyper-vigilant. I believe that we can justifiably say that the horse that is yawning is a happy horse. Evidence of that will show that an unhappy horse has a higher heart rate and thus is more vigilant.

11/30/2016: I have a two-year old Warmblood mare who is good to handle, lead, groom, load and so on, but when I take her into the round pen to try and do Join-Up with her, and send her away, she turns aggressive, tries to crowd in on me or turn her back at me and kick. I manage to keep her at a distance with a lot of spinning of the rope and waving of a stick with a plastic bag at the end, but it requires a lot of energy and I get exhausted. This behavior is worse on the left circle than the right. When I allow her to stop, however, she comes quietly to me with her ears forward and is not aggressive. How can I stop this aggressive behavior when she is asked to trot or canter in the round pen? I feel we cannot move forward in her training if this issue is not solved. Thank you for your advice.

Monty’s Answer: You pose an interesting question. I would have several questions for you before I would would be terribly happy with speculative answers that I might give. I will do my best however and ask, is there any possibility that your two year old is an orphan? The behavior that you describe is often that of the orphan. If your filly is not an orphan then I would ask if she was raised with humans in extremely close proximity.

The behaviors suggest the actions of a hand-raised equine individual treated as a member of the family. I love my horses, but I often advise my students to regard them as horses every minute of every day. Students who care for their horses will often make the mistake of regarding them as they would human friends. This usually results in behaviors similar to what you have suggested in this question.

My advice is to engage the Dually halter to create a world of ‘yes and no’. If you study my work, you will understand the elements of PICNIC. It is described on our Equus Online University and is a prominent feature of the textbook ‘From My Hands To Yours’. These are the concepts that we come to know while playing the ‘yes no game’ with our students. Discipline should not be eliminated but utilized with undesirable behavior.

No violence is accepted in my concepts. Striking the horse is not disciplinary. It is viewed by the horse to be an unjustified attack and tends to interrupt a partnership relationship. Properly used, the Dually halter allows the horse to make their own mistakes and receive the negative, but painless, consequences that bad behavior invites. I wish there was some way for me to know more about you and your horse but let this be a start.

11/23/2016: I have minis (which I use for therapy) and have gotten a new one. I’ve noticed that she doesn’t seem to really look at me. She seems to like attention, but when we are working up close, she doesn’t seem to look at my eyes. I’m trying to find a round pen I can use to do Join-Up. Am I worrying unnecessarily?

Monty’s Answer: You’re right, I think you are worrying unnecessarily. Believe me when I tell you that your mini is looking at you. The fact is that you can barely find a place to hide from her. The equine, including minis, have a clear vision of almost 360 degrees. You are being seen, but I worry that maybe your mini is telling you that you are invading her eyes at times when she believes it is inappropriate. Humans often do this.

Remember that when the human looks straight into the eyes of Equus, they are gesturing that they want the animal to go away. Because they are a prey animal, they will be enticed to advance toward you when your eyes are off theirs. Remember that the predator is viewing the prey animal eye-to-eye when intending to attack. Use my Equus Online University or my textbook From My Hands To Yours to better understand these principles.

I also advise that you seek the potential for an instructor in your area. We now have 82 globally all of whom have been fully educated to help the horse owner with these concerns. Please remember that the mini requires a world that is reduced in size and this includes any round pen like environment that you might create. Minis are still horses and you can have fun learning about Equus no matter the size.

11/16/2016: I’m looking for some advice. My brother recently bought a horse. We have never owned a horse before, let alone worked with one. He started with Join-Up with her. He got to where he could put a saddle on her back and ride her, then he was gone for two and a half weeks. I was supposed to keep working with her while he was gone along with my other brother. We were going through Clinton Anderson’s book, just doing ground work. She was doing very well until we got to “lunging for respect.”

About the same time she came into heat, and the neighbor’s stallion started coming over. Since then she has been becoming more and more difficult to work with, though before she was a dream. Last time I did lunging with her she started kicking her feet up behind her. Then my brother returned a couple days later and when he went out with her she was horrible. She started pinning her ears back and charging at him, and running close by trying to kick him.

I didn’t think we were doing that badly with her, but I’m very worried. I was told that being around the stallion can have a really bad effect on mares. I’m hoping that keeping him away now, she will go back to her wonderful self. But part of me feels like this could be from training her incorrectly, since I’m new to the equine world as well. Is she ruined now? I was shocked that she would behave in such a way, she has been so good for months. She is a 12-year-old Thoroughbred, a granddaughter of Sir Ivor. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Monty’s Answer: You have presented me with a scenario which is extremely difficult for me to process. You have begun the training with your horse using someone else’s concepts. The person that you have chosen openly promotes violence to horses and to people too. He has a YouTube presentation where he visibly uses violence in the training of the horse and advocates for it in an interview format as well.

Since my body of work has as its main thread “violence is never the answer,” you are asking me to deal with a horse that has clearly been trained by methods that are poles apart. I am happy to invite you to enter the world of horse training in the absence of violence but each person dealing with this horse would have to be agreeable to completely changing their behavior and attitude.

It is interesting that I read the words, “lunging for respect.” My father often used the word respect when he was beating me for some action that I had inadvertently done. I recall one of my teachers later asking me how to spell the word respect. I spelled it for her, and then she advised me that in the world of my father, respect was spelled F E A R. It suddenly made sense to me.

It is clear that the actions that you took to lunge this horse created anger and not cooperation. The teacher of these methods I’m sure would say, “you didn’t hit hard enough or often enough to accomplish your goal.” The goal in this case is to use pain and violence to achieve submission and compliance. My world is built around causing the horse to want to do it, not forcing the horse to do it.

You ask, “is the horse ruined?” The answer is I don’t know. I haven’t seen the action taken nor have I seen the horse’s response. I would also ask, “ruined for who?” I feel confident that I could cause the horse to cooperate and become a partner. The question is, can your group of people accomplish the same thing. I don’t know the answer to that, because I have too little information on them.

There is no doubt in my mind that the original mentor suggesting the violence could take this horse, beat it into submission, and cause it to be subservient and compliant. If that is what you want, then I am the wrong person to come to. If you want to completely change your attitude toward training horses, then you have come to the right person. I will help in any way I can.

There is a massive amount of information available to you regarding my concepts. I have a textbook, “From My Hands To Yours.” I have eight books incorporating my principles. I have an Online University with over 400 lessons, and we have 82 certified instructors globally, each of whom are listed on my website. You represent the target of my existence, I want this world to be better for horses and for people too.

You are welcome to continue to dialogue with me, contact an instructor near you, read my books, or even attend courses here on my farm in California. It is your call. We are here to help if you find that you’re ready to go in our direction.

11/9/2016: I have a five-year-old Thoroughbred who is a darling. She recently had a leg injury which required intensive treatment a leg cast for seven days and then skin grafts. She is now all healed apart from she refuses to lift the left hind (injury was on the right hind).

She appears to be sound in the field I can touch it. She will occasionally rest the right hind so is able to weight bear through that leg. She will lift a couple of inches with difficulty then immediately slam it back down. No problem previously still under vet so pain has been excluded.

The problem is we are unable to trim her feet safely let alone pick it out. Tried to persistently work on it unsuccessfully to the point we are considering she may need put to sleep if basic care cannot be given safely.

I don’t know where else to turn for advice as the vets and farrier are also at a loss.

Monty’s Answer:

Wow, this is a challenge. Because I am dealing with a life, I know how to save it and I only hope that I can get sufficient information through that will be successful for you and your horse. We recently had a horse sent to us for one of the courses. His name was Phoenix and he was a retired racehorse with similar patterns of behavior to which you have described in your question.

Fortunately we have a video of Phoenix complete with three days of remedial work that went from ‘utter disaster’ to ‘complete success’. The owner had been paying to tranquilize Phoenix for each farrier procedure over a two year period of time. He was dangerous and obsessed with hurting someone who tried to pick up any foot. On the last day of the video Phoenix stood with no line on.

At the present time I am helping several horses globally with Phoenix’s video. It would be advisable to email through asking my team here in California to get you the video of Phoenix as well as the Dually halter and long line that was part of the training process. In the meantime it is my suggestion that you go on my Equus Online University and view as many videos as possible about the Dually halter.

This was the tool I used to create a series of reactions to his behavior that were negative when he broke the rules, and positive when he cooperated. Without violence or medication, one can step back from the remedial behavior, smile, let him express his negativity, correct him with the Dually halter and then reward him with no pressure on the line and watch him improve.

Learning to fit and use the Dually halter is absolutely critical to solving this problem. There is no need for violence or medication in the application of the principles that I have used globally on so many horses that express this negative behavior. In this case, the reason is quite clear. It is important to realize that horses simply don’t forget. Your horse still believes the pain is coming.

In this video you will see me using an artificial arm, with a rigid “thumb.” This will allow you to pick up a foot with far less potential danger to the handler. In these cases please understand that safety is the primary issue. Injured farriers, veterinarians or owners will not be happy and are far more likely to express anger than those that are not feeling pain. Humans react to pain also.

11/2/2016: I want to thank you for your training techniques, they may have saved my little mustang mare’s life. I bought her three years ago as a wild, untouched, BLM mustang. Through your techniques I was able to gentle her, gain her trust and help her overcome her fears. Two nights ago we had a terrible lightning storm with two strikes directly over and behind our house. The next morning I found my little mare severely wounded when she tried to run through the fence.

I haven’t mastered the technique of teaching her to get in a trailer but I got her, a couple of years ago, to get in the trailer to eat, but I only did that for about a week. Needless to say I needed to get her to a vet asap. With the help of my husband and a good neighbor she loaded and we got her treated. She’s never been off the farm and I worried the stress of being injured, going to an unfamiliar place and having medical treatment would be too much for her but we had no choice.

She was such a trooper and so well behaved even when she wasn’t sedated. I couldn’t believe how brave and trusting she was! She required shaving, wound probing, a drain tube in her head, several shots but not once did she put up a fuss! After the vet was done, we needed to get her loaded again. She resisted only for a minute until the vet walked up behind her and gave her a gentle push and she stepped right in!

Thank you for all that you taught me and I was able to teach her, she’s such an awesome little horse! Keep up the good work, you’re such an inspiration to us, we love you and your work!

Monty’s Answer: I suppose it is most appropriate to answer this email with three words. Congratulations, congratulations and congratulations. To compare your story with some of them that I receive is just an outright joy that causes me to keep working hard and trying to get the world to realize that violence is never the answer. You have become a new hero for me and I would love to have permission to reprint your email of endorsement.

On this day I have answered several questions regarding horses that have suffered the acts of violent training. Unfortunately some people still think that it is a necessary part of dealing with these wonderful animals. You have obviously taken the time to learn the concepts of violence-free training and it has ultimately given you a great reward. It is hard to thank you enough for your months of work and for your success.

10/26/2016: My mare used to be a trail riding horse before I bought her. So now, when she wants to, she’ll follow you around. Mostly in the arena and round pen. So when I did Join-Up with her, I didn’t really do it. I didn’t begin at 2 o’clock and I let her come in to me when she just started licking and chewing, no dropping head. She followed me around the round pen (just like she always does) but after we got out of the round pen she had NO respect at ALL for me. If she didn’t want to move she wouldn’t move. If she wanted to go she would go, otherwise it was a different story. Last night I rode her to the hitching post to untack her but she wanted to go back to her pen but I wouldn’t let her turn around, so she BACKED UP most of the way to her pen. After tapping her with the lead rope 15 billion times she FINALLY went forward. Should I just train her in the Dually halter? Or can I do the Join-Up again? Because I don’t feel like she accepted me as her leader.

Monty’s Answer: In this particular case I see every reason to use the Dually training halter and a 30-foot line. The Dually halter becomes smaller and less comfortable when she decides to resist it or to go away. The 30-foot line allows you to let the equine mistake happen, and then cause it to create the negative consequences after three, four or five steps in the wrong direction, or twenty or thirty seconds of refusing to come forward.

Please learn the use of the Dually halter and how to fit it. Our Equus Online University has detailed information on the fitting and use of the Dually. There are significant numbers of video lessons about the use of the Dually in schooling unacceptable behavior. My textbook “From My Hands To Yours” has an entire chapter on how valuable the Dually halter is, particularly with the behavior that you have outlined in your question.

Check our website to determine whether there is a certified instructor within a reasonable distance so that you can get solid information regarding each of the negative behavioral patterns that you have described. In addition, do not hesitate to communicate with me as to the progress, or lack of it, that occurs during the course of improving the situations outlined by you in the question you have sent through.

10/19/2016: We recently acquired a rescue horse, who is about 12 to 14 years old. She seems to have good ground manners, and doesn’t seem to be spooked by much. Since she is new to us, should we use a Join-Up session with her, or is this unnecessary at this point? I love your non-violent methods and am currently watching all of your training videos so that I can use them myself.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your question and I have to say that I really appreciate your efforts to educate yourself in the art of horsemanship. In answer to your question, I would indicate that doing Join-Up® is a procedure I have never known to hurt anything. To the contrary, I have witnessed Join-Up achieve some seemingly miraculous results even from middle-aged horses that didn’t indicate a remedial problem at all. I would do Join-Up, observe it closely, and report back to me as to your thoughts.

10/12/2016: My name is Hope and I am from a little village in North Wales (little village but a long name: Garndolbenmaen). Around 5 years ago I purchased a Thoroughbred Mare named Orphan Annie. Her name was a result of her mother sadly passing away whilst giving birth to Annie. She was originally bred to race but never made a career out of it. Her first year with us included putting weight on her, treating the rain scaled and getting her to trust us. She was a nightmare to lead into the field and had many times pinned either my mum or I in the corner of a stable and once broke my mothers ribs and foot. I, however, was determined to get her broken in and rideable. It may have taken us a few years but now we can enjoy taking her for a ride and lead her into a field without any issues (although we are still a little cautious of her!). However, there is an issue with getting her into a trailer which is a shame as this little Mare has a lot of potential to do well.

I have tried many techniques including the following:
Rope behind her
Your Dually
Halters
Food
Blindfolding
Fencing on either side of the ramp
A new, larger trailer with more windows to allow more light in
Leaving the trailer in a field with her
Patrician out
Our other horse in the trailer

As you can see I have tried many things but I can’t seem to get her in. She is happy to get her feet on the ramp and stand there but as soon as you put a little pressure from the front or back she will either rear up or pull back off the ramp and we have to start the process again. When we do finally get her in she is relaxed and travels well but the daunting fear of having to get her back in to go home looms over us which means we no longer take her to places. She shows no fear and when I have worked with her and the trailer will lick and chew. I have stood in my trailer crying and begging for her to get in but nothing seems to work and I am now running out of options. Is she being stubborn or is there a fear behind all of this that I haven’t noticed?

Mr Roberts, I have always admired the work you do (so much so I read your auto-biography when I was in school while all the other girls were reading chick flicks), I have been to your shows and cried every time you joined up with a horse, I have your autograph and have followed your instructions from your books. I want my Mare to trust me and get into the trailer so I can take her to lessons and competitions and show her off to the rest of the world. If you ever find yourself in the UK or near Wales would you please kindly consider visiting me and showing me how I can overcome this?

Monty’s Answer: Dear Hope, your name intrigues me and I believe that you send your letter through in the true hope that I can help you. If you only knew how many letters I get that are similar to yours you would be shocked. Please remember that I have now done over 2,800 non-loaders in front of public audiences without a failure.

You are clearly misunderstanding some of my recommendations. I think it’s time that we specifically deal with these problems one-on-one. I will be at Myerscough College near Preston on the 15th and then Hartpury College, Gloucester on the 21st October. It would be my pleasure to help you on one of these evenings.
If it’s possible to bring your horse remember that I tell each owner that if I can’t load the horse then I am obligated to ride it home for you. I will not only load your horse, but I will cause your horse to load herself. Please give me a chance to help you through this situation. It will be my pleasure to get her right.

On the Intelligent Horsemanship website you will find a form to apply to bring your horse to a demonstration. Please complete this form indicating that you have been in contact with me. If you cannot bring your horse, I look forward to meeting you at one of my demonstrations where you will see my methods in action. No force, no food, no blindfolding, just pure communication.

10/5/2016: I’d like to do Join-Up with Lucus, but as it’s a pretty busy barn and I’m just leasing, I don’t want to announce it. Meaning, I’d like to tack him up at least with a saddle and take him to the round pen before my free ride. Is still effective if he’s already saddled?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. If your horse is wearing a saddle during Join-Up it makes absolutely no difference. It is true however, that the horse’s head should be free of any restraint. This means no bit, bridle, or reins tied back to the saddle.

A halter on the horse’s head is no problem. One should be aware that horses will sometimes want to roll after a Join-Up. This would not be a good activity with a saddle on. Please review videos here in my Equus Online University so that Join-Up can be executed in the best possible way.

09/28/2016: My 12 year old ex-race horse Standardbred has a lot of energy now in the springtime. She gets a little to excited during a ride although I have been riding her during the winter. I want to exercise her before I ride and on days that I don’t ride. I have tried double long lines to lunge her knowing that one long line is extremely harmful to their body. (I have read all of your books and am in full support of those methods). But with long lining she still does Join-Up with me although I make no signals for it and no eye contact, she does the signs and starts dragging her nose on the ground and therefore I can’t exercise her. She always thinks I want her to do Join-Up again when I just want to exercise her. I don’t know how to get her energy out without it being too dangerous for me to ride. How can I exercise my horse and ride safely again?

Monty’s Answer: Please understand that when I long line a horse, I am in charge of the amount of exercise the horse is doing and I require that horse to follow the requests from the long lines so that Join-Up is not an option. Perhaps you should take a hard look at your procedures to accomplish the long lining exercise. The behavior that you have outlined should simply not be a factor during the long lining process.

If your horse starts to come in toward you, use your outside line to keep the horse out on the fence, and you can maintain forward motion with a flick from the inside line. Please review the lessons on my Equus Online University and the relevant chapters in my textbook, From My Hands to Yours, for further clarification.

09/21/2016: Last year in March I went off and suffered a separated clavicle which stopped my riding until mid-January of this year. In December when I could use my arm normally again, I asked the owner of the stables if I could stop by once a week and groom a mare that I once rode as a lesson horse. I am continuing to do that, we both find it quite enjoyable. Taking care of the horse and getting my hands on her does wonders for me.

My grooming routine also includes doing a Join-Up with her in the round pen and after that taking her for a walk. A few months ago, I took a friend with me to see the horses. When I took the mare into the round pen I asked ask him to close the gate behind me. As he stepped up to close the gate, the mare bolted and broke away from me, running in the pen with the lead rope still attached. I got her calmed down, removed the lead rope and did the Join-Up.

Since that day, whenever I take her into the round pen, with no one else nearby, she wants to bolt and I can hardly restrain her to get the lead rope off and close the gate. Finally two days ago, knowing she wants to bolt, I held her tight going in to the pen but now she bolts out of my grasp anyway and I cannot restrain her. In other words, this behavior is continually getting worse.

I take this as a sign of great disrespect on her part for me. Our Join-Up sessions are wonderful after the fact, but I worry about this behavior as being dangerous should I possibly get tangled in the lead rope and she could trip on it and hurt herself. Also, I am worried that one of the young ladies that works with her might get similarly injured.

Is there anything you could tell me about how to rectify this problem? Right now I believe I should stop working with her. What a shame, we had so many nice grooming days together when we both got so much out of it.

Monty’s Answer: It’s always a problem when horses are handled by several different individuals. It’s even worse when certain individuals fail to follow reasonable horsemanship skills. Let me predict what probably happened to cause all of this in the first place. Someone was in a hurry or simply found it exciting to watch this horse run and buck across the pasture.

Bringing the gate closed and unclipping at the same time quickly followed by a smack across her bottom to get the action the misinformed handler would enjoy. When I educate the staffs of the breeding farms I advise to walk the horses through the gate into the field, turn the horse toward the gate and unclip only when every body is ready for it and standing totally relaxed.

The human individuals should exit the fields quietly encouraging the horses to walk away and not run away. Your statement clearly leads me to believe that someone broke the rules with regard to the horse in question. I am not sure that you are in a position to train this horse but I can tell you what I would do to stop the problem.

I would put a Dually Halter on and fasten a 30-foot line to the training ring. I would then put the traditional halter right over the top of it. I would enter the field, turn my horse toward the gate and remove the traditional halter in a fashion so that the horse in question is certain they are being released. When the horse bolts away, I would have the 30-foot line over my hip.

The horse would come to meet the line after about 10 to 15 feet and spin around quite surprised. I would repeat this procedure 2 to 3 times the first day before releasing both halters. I would then insist that the horse be done in that fashion each day its put in the field. Do not engage in this training technique if you are not comfortable with the use of the 30-foot line in this fashion.

If not trained to use the line like this, it is likely that the hands of the holder will be burned by the rapidly moving line or you could become entangled in the line if unaware of the dangers. Someone who has handled a horse for a significant period of time could execute this procedure and have good results with it.

9/14/2016: A halter with knots in it seems like a humane way to discipline horses. What is your opinion of knotted halters?

*Monty’s Answer:

“I don’t consider the knotted halter to be a training halter at all.”

Dear Ken,

I have no problem with knotted halters. The knots in these nylon rope halters used to be for the singular purpose of forming the halter itself. Those hand-made nylon rope halters last forever. I have some that are more than 50 years old and still as effective as ever. You will seldom break one, they don’t cost much to make and they are quite effective when used properly to tie a horse for long periods of time.

As the decades went by, someone pointed out that the knots were uncomfortable when there was tension on the halter. This, they asserted, made them a training halter. The theory was that when one tugged on the halter, it was uncomfortable, so the horse yielded to the pressure thereby performing the act requested by the horseman in charge. These statements are actually quite true.

My history with knotted rope halters precedes the Dually Halter by several decades. The birth of the Dually Halter came about because I observed that the principles involved in the Dually Halter causing it to shrink are far more educational for the horse than the knots ever could be. I don’t consider the knotted halter to be a training halter at all but for many reasons the Dually Halter is a training halter superb.

With a training ring on each side, it allows you to longline and even ride comfortably and effectively with the Dually Halter. The bottom ring provides a position that simply creates the action of a traditional halter. With this position one can tie the horse up and not have pressure from knots or from the shrinkage of the Dually Halter. They are two different tools, both with significant value.

9/7/2016: I live in mainland Greece and rescued a mare and foal in February this year. They are a breed of horse called Thessalian and I think the foal is an Aravani (pacer). They were both in very bad condition but have improved greatly since they have food and water. The foal is now 8 months old and I can easily halter her and also pick up her feet. The mare has an old injury of a broken pelvis, which the vet thinks was from a rope injury whilst she was hobbled. It must have been left untreated and has healed badly.

However, I have two questions please.

1) Would it be helpful to the mare to do some gentle schooling as I cannot ride her? If so, what would you suggest that I do?

2) I would eventually like to ride the foal and I don’t want to build up any problems in the future by being too hands on now. What is your advice with regard to working or interacting with the foal over the next few years before she’s started?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. It is so appropriate for me right now because I am on the course called Gentling Wild Horses. Along with this live course with real, live horses I might suggest to you that my textbook From My Hands to Yours is loaded with ideas involving the Gentling Process. The Dually Halter has a prominent chapter in this book and is a mainstay in the process of leading and handling. I just completed teaching courses where we had three extremely wild, untouched horses that advanced to being led and allowing their feet to be picked up in three days of about 30 minutes per day.

In these three days Join-Up and Follow-Up was achieved and each horse allowed for haltering and leading. In addition to the book, the Equus Online University is loaded with videos that actually show many of the procedures we consider extremely helpful with the very questions you pose. These elements are impossible to just simply write out in answer form as they are procedural in nature and not conducive to a few words to answer the questions.

8/31/2016: What can I do to help my horse become more balanced? I have had him a month and he is a nightmare to ride, not what I had in mind at all. He has changed, he is unbalanced in the school and keeps wanting to bolt and spooking when hacking? What can I do to help this? Shall I try little agility courses to build his confidence up? I’m stuck and losing confidence.

Monty’s Answer: In my position, one fields a lot of questions. With that, one tends to read into the question elements of the student’s abilities. Its probably a bad idea to try to guess what is going on in these situations, in just a few words from a well-intentioned students trying to get information. I would ask you to realize that I have few other options and since I want my students to be safe I feel compelled to attempt to ascertain what is going on in their life with horses.

At the risk of being all wrong, let me tell you that I read into your question some strong messages that you are overmatched when comparing horse to rider. ‘Unbalanced’ is very vague term that means so many different things to so many different people. In your case, as I read your question I saw a horse in my mind’s eye. The horse was disunited or as many in our industry say ‘cross-lead’. The overall environment of your riding effort seemed to be chaotic.

Have you checked the saddle fit and have you had his teeth checked? Once one is sure that there are no health or pain issues, build on your horse’s confidence by achieving Join-Up with your horse and and then some ground work with the Dually Halter. Then proceed with some sessions of double line lungeing to build on your ground work before introducing saddle and rider again.

An experienced horseman reading this question would find it scary to make comments because there is a strong feeling that I am putting my rider in jeopardy. I get the feeling that you are pulling when you should be releasing and squeezing with your legs when you should be relaxing them. I get the feeling that I desperately need to see what is going on before I advise as to solutions. Each year I conduct a Riding with Respect clinic for just this very kind of situation.

We provide safe horses for those coming great distances and we take on horses and their riders for the ones who reside a bit closer. It is my goal with each of these clinics to fill people with a much improved sense of control and comfort with their riding. To seriously advise based upon the words in your question would be a mistake.

8/24/2016: I know people who say they find out a lot about horses’ temperaments and personalities by ‘reading’ their facial features. They say that things like swirls, eye shape, Roman nose versus dished face, etc. can tell you if a horse is naturally sensitive, exceptionally intelligent, likely to be stubborn or hardy, and so on. Do you think this is true? Can you actually ‘read’ a horse’s face to discover things about their personality and needs?

Monty’s Answer: There are many people who come to me with these theories regarding expressions, swirls and other anatomical features. I simply don’t want to disagree with these individuals but I have not found any of these features to have a great deal of importance.

Personally, I have had outstanding horses with a lot of white around their eye and incredibly inept ones with beautiful white-free eyes. Further, I have never found that the swirls have told me much about a horse’s personality. If one finds value in these indicators, use them. I don’t think there is any harm in it in any way.

8/17/2016: We hear all of the time how we can “dull” our horses to the aids by using them incorrectly. Correct placement and timing are essential or the horse just learns to ignore our leg, hand or seat. Can we dull a horse to the language of Equus? Could someone teach a horse, like Shy Boy for example, to ignore the cues by using the language of Equus incorrectly?

Monty’s Answer: It is a greater worry with me that a student would conduct Join-Up® sessions over and over again without observing closely whether or not they are working. It is not a strong consideration with me that a novice can harm a horse with incorrect motions. The horse still knows his language and simply waits for us to get it right.

You need only to achieve 4 to 10 Join-Ups with a horse, more than that could become annoying to a horse, much like a too often repeated story. After these few Join-Ups, one should aim to live by the principles of Join-Up. The principles are found in the language of Equus, which is gestural.

08/10/2016: Have you found that people in different countries and cultures have different and interesting ways of dealing with horses? Or is there a universal horse language?

Monty’s Answer: As a matter of fact, I do believe that there is a universal horse language, but I have to say that we human beings approach our horses with what seems to be millions of different ideas. As long as I see that there is no violence in the methods people use with their horses, and the results are positive and fair to the horse, then I don’t think there is any harm in diversity. I have spent a lifetime interacting with horses and have quantified the gestural communication system of horses in my textbook From My Hands to Yours.

08/03/2016: What would you say is the most pronounced characteristic of a horse’s personality, if you were to generalize? (The single thing that humans should keep in mind when dealing with horses)

Monty’s Answer: The word “flight” comes to mind immediately upon hearing this question. Every horse owner should be mindful that the horses action or “misbehavior” may be fear based and not an act of defiance.

Horses do not want violence in their life. They devour no other animal, live as hyper-vigilant flight animals with only two goals in life. The only goals a horse can have is to survive, and to reproduce. They are extremely uncomplicated and would much prefer to have a partnership than to be demanded from.

07/27/2016: How long did it take you to learn to “listen” to horses? Did you make any mistakes in the process? Any amusing or unexpected results?

Monty’s Answer: If I am still learning then my learning process has continued for well over 70 years. I often say that I am the Wilbur Wright of the horse industry. I sincerely believe that I am just scratching the surface of what there is to know regarding communication with these wonderful animals.

It is the next generation that will bring that level of learning to its ultimate place. It is amazing to me how little our training procedure had changed for around 6,000 years. Violence is never the answer.

07/20/2016: The language that you devised, Equus, how many movements (words) does it entail? Or what is its vocabulary?

Monty’s Answer: Please understand that I never ‘devised’ anything. It is also true that I did not invent or create this language. I only observed what nature already had in place. I then emulated these gestures of which there are at least 200.

The dictionary definition of communication is “an act or instance of transmitting information.” Horses living in a herd have to communicate to survive. Domestic horses tend to be vociferous; however, in the wild it is important to be as silent as possible in order not to attract attention-not to attract predators.

When brought into domestic environments, I have seen mustangs panic at the sound of domestic horses whinnying. I have seen them run to the corner of their enclosure, huddle tightly together and lower their heads to about knee level. I believe they are concerned that the domestic horses will alert the predators, which the mustangs believe are certain to arrive.

I have experimented by removing all but one mustang from the enclosure, noting that the remaining individual will fail to call to his removed friends. This simply does not happen with domestic horses.

Domestic horses use sound mainly to signal where they are and to be sure that they have a location on their friends. Horses will learn how to react to certain human sounds like “whoa” and “trot,” but this is habituation rather than communication.

Surprisingly, the human communicates using as much as 80 percent body language. Although we base many of our communication systems on the spoken word, body language is the most powerful conveyor of our emotions and intent. Certainly intonation, volume and demeanor of the speaker are virtually as important as the words he utters.

In Chapter 1, Chapter 2 and at the end of Chapter 4 of my textbook, From My Hands to Yours, you will find a dictionary of the Language of Equus. It is illustrated to educate the reader in the signs and signals that I use to communicate with horses.

07/13/2016: What would Mr. Roberts like to tell us for the future of the sustainability discussion? And will human and animal ever find its way back to a “heavenly” state? Or, if not heavenly in the sense of the bible, so at least in a way as it was in times of indigenous tribes prior to their conquest? This is a hypothetical, more philosophic, question.

Monty’s Answer: Please allow me to remind you that I am 81 years old and rode my first horse in competition at the age of four. After meeting Queen Elizabeth II, I worked with over 11,000 horses in front of public audiences. These took place with 2750 public events. I have traveled over two and a half million miles and worked in front of approximately 3.5 million attendees. It is now time for me to advise and hand the baton to the next generation.

There is no way that I can predict how this human species will come to understand animals better, be more at ease with them, and work more in partnership rather than in a slave/master relationship. It is up to the next generation to make these decisions. I have given my concepts to the public with an opportunity to utilize the non-violent approach, throw it away, or devise a new set of rules.

07/06/2016: Has the method of Mr. Roberts ever been evaluated? If so, when and by whom? How and where?

Monty’s Answer: Right or wrong, I would have to admit that I turned in the opposite direction of traditional horsemanship. Everything I do is as new as it might be from the Wright Brothers on the day they first flew their airplane. My stock answer is, “My way is the only way. For me. Today. If you show me a better way, that will be my way tomorrow.” I am solidly on a path to reduce violence in the training of these flight animals.

With regard to scientific trials, please communicate with Debbie Loucks at debbie@montyroberts.com for information regarding a comprehensive science trial. This effort was set up to compare UK traditional methods with those that I use. It conclusively finds that the horses performed far better and with less stress when my methods were used than they did when traditional methods were used. These tests were conducted with heart rate monitors on each horse for 22 days.

Let me suggest to you that every corporation on earth has violence within it, on virtually every given day. I generally follow that statement with this one, “Words can hurt as much as whips can.” Trust within the corporate family is absolutely essential to an efficient, smooth-running group of human beings with a similar goal in mind for their company.

Use my website to ascertain what corporations have chosen to work with me to improve the outcome of the companies involved. http://www.montyrob-erts.com/ab_about_monty/ab_about_monty_career/

06/29/2016: I only want to support the good treatment of animals but I am a novice horseman and need to know why your method is sometimes discussed as not being gentle. I don’t mean to provoke you but I want to know why people would say this if it wasn’t true. Are there even more gentle developments of those methods?

Monty’s Answer: Whatever discipline one considers, there will be critics especially in this day and age of computer sciences. They will often sound like a mighty army while they may be a small group of totally uninformed human beings. I could write a book on the misconceptions of people regarding aspects of communication between human and horse. Please let me advise you that I simply do my work and the horses or the humans respond to it.

6/22/16: Mr. Roberts’ method is said to rely on body language. Is that true? From Indians, e.g. Lakota, it is said that they can communicate with horses in a different way, with spoken language. But there are no empirical proofs for that. I think that I was able to experience that twice in my life. But that is no proof, I just wanted to mention it. Maybe this is nothing special at all and many owners of animals “talk” with their animals, who don´t answer in German or English but in their own way. What exactly can Mr. Roberts tell us about human-animal communications? Are there empirical findings about that? They can be scientific, psychological or statistic?

Monty’s Answer: As a German citizen, it is likely that you have been affected by the writings of Karl May. I have been told that Mr. May wrote about the native North Americans who communicated with horses. I was told by respected individuals in the publishing industry that Karl May wrote his books while in prison in Germany. I have been advised that he died in prison and his mother had his books published with Mr. May never being in America.

In addition let me advise you that I have worked for years with a man called John Grinder. He is a co-founder of Neuro-Linguistic Programming (NLP). Mr. Grinder has advised me not to use the word “language” when referring to communication between human and horse. He reminds me that language tends to refer to the spoken word with syntax. That is not what I do, but in fact I use gestures that clearly evoke predictable responses from the horses.

6/15/2016: There are probably many trainers who claim to be the true or original horse whisperer. The Horse Whisperer movie is said to be not the movie about Monty Roberts´ life but that of another person. That person is said to be Buck Brannaman. Can you please give us an clear answer about that?

*Monty’s Answer: Please let me address this first question by telling you what actually transpired after I met Queen Elizabeth II in April 1989. Her Majesty requested that I visit 21 separate UK cities. The Queen herself set up the people to host demonstrations in these locations. During my meeting with the Queen that April, she strongly requested that a book be written about my work. I began to write The Man Who Listens to Horses.

During my 21 city tour, a man came to me from the audience, at Duchy College in Cornwall, England. He introduced himself as Nicholas Evans. He said that he was impressed with the demonstration and was motivated to write a book about this experience. I did not take him seriously on that evening. About two weeks later, I received a telephone call while in California. Once more, I was visiting with Nicholas Evans.

In the next few days I was in contact with the Queen, who adamantly asked me not to get involved with a novel. She wanted a book from me, that was truthful, and accurate. I informed Mr. Evans that I was not available for endorsing or advising on a book about my work. He was clearly not happy with me and said that he would contact a man that I knew very well. This man was an American called Tom Dorrance.

Mr. Dorrance communicated with me that he had read the manuscript and was not interested in assisting in the writing of the book nor the production of the movie. He told me at that time, that he was recommending one of his students, called Buck Brannaman, to help with this effort. Later I was to learn that Mr. Brannaman was chosen and did assist in the setting up of the scenes for the movie called The Horse Whisperer.

Later I was contacted by the Disney Corporation who had purchased the rights to the movie. They asked me to attach my name to the book and the movie, as an endorser of the contents. The Queen very strongly advised me against doing that, and so it didn’t happen. You should note that I do not whisper to horses anyway, and the man responsible for the term, John Solomon Rarey (1827-1866), worked for the Queen’s grandmother, Queen Victoria.

6/8/2016: I am 63 yrs old this year, I was raised around horses from birth. My Dad loved them and started his own cross-breed that made for a beautiful animal. He gave me a wonderful little bay gelding when I was 10.

Unfortunately, at the time I seemed to have more interest in conveyances of the motorized type and didn’t pay enough attention to Teddy. So, guess-what? Dad sold Teddy!

It took me a long time to really come to my senses, but I have regretted for many years the outcome of my lack-of-interest. There is still one descendant of Dad’s herd here on the farm as well as two of my daughter’s horses; her daughter’s mini and two more, belonging to my son. I don’t do much with them other than to make sure they have feed and aren’t injured and help the granddaughter with her mini when she visits. It seems there’s always too many other, more-important things to occupy my mind.

Just a few days ago I had the most amazing encounter with a wild/feral horse. Anyhow, I was driving around out in the bush west of my home, here in central Alberta when I came across a lone horse, about 100 yards distant, grazing in a recently-logged-off and scarified area.

I stopped the truck, took a picture and watched the horse for a few minutes and spoke to him once. He looked-up at me for a minute then carried on grazing. I then decided, what-the-heck, I’m going to see how close I can get to this fellow. So I started slowly walking his way. Each time that he lifted his head and appeared about to take flight, I would retreat a couple steps, turn my body at about 45 degrees to him and cast my eyes downward till he settled into grazing again. (Incidentally, I have read some of your work and was enrolled in your online university for one year).

Now this is where things got really interesting! I was now about 20 feet from the horse and he seemed fairly calm, having only flared his nostrils and blown softly a couple times. I could now see that he was an intact stallion and terribly scarred-up all over both sides of his back. The scarring and the fact he was alone, leads me to think he’d recently got run out of his herd. He was a nicely set-up little guy maybe 14-1/2 hands and if I had to guess, about 4 or 5 yrs old. Short-coupled; head and feet just-a-bit big for his body, with I believe, a touch of draft in him (he had a bit of long hair on his fetlocks). Predominately Dark Bay running into a Liver-Chestnut splash over the rump. All-in-all a nice-looking little fellow.

So at this point I had come to a large poplar log between us, so decided to just, set-a-spell. The horse then proceeded to circle around so that he was down-wind of me, alternately grazing and nonchalantly studying me. All the while, I too, tried not to stare at him too intently, just casually glancing up, then back down to his front legs.

After a couple minutes he started coming in the last 15 ft to me, till he got to where it looked like he would like to make one more step, but that would have required him to step over a small log and a gouge in the ground, which had been left by the scarifyer. This would have brought him in about two steps and I believe he was not comfortable with that idea. (I still chuckle to myself as I recall watching him ponder this)!

I thought I’d help him out, so slowly began to reach my hand out to him. He too reached out, to within about 8 inches of my hand, just briefly, then after a few seconds, quickly turned and trotted off about 20 feet and turned at about 45 degrees to me and stood casually looking at me for a bit.

I stayed seated on the log with my eyes mostly downcast but glancing up now and again. Suddenly he turned to face my way, from 20 feet out, square-on and let out the most powerful snort I have ever heard from any horse! I mean, like he put every ounce he had, into it I’m sure. Funny thing is, by this time I was so deep into this amazing encounter I didn’t even flinch, in spite of this sudden and powerful out-burst.

After standing looking right at me a bit with eyes wide and flared nostrils , he calmed down then quartered away, alternately cropping grass, glancing back and moving away till he disappeared over a hill some three hundred yards off. Finally Monty, I have come to my question! Did I miss my cue there? When he turned and moved away after sniffing my hand. Was it my turn to move towards him and I didn’t realize it?

Twenty-twenty hind-sight tells me he was enjoying this little game just as much as I was, and that, that was his invite for Join-Up? Also, what was that resounding snort? (Remember this came after the hand sniffing and retreat.) Was that perhaps a scare tactic, to see if I would take flight? Or, was he just (ha ha) voicing his disgust, at my lack of knowledge, of the rules-of-the-game!

A little background on the horse. He was in an area frequented by people on quads, dirt bikes and such, and so, used to seeing humans regularly, although never me, nor me him. Whether he had ever had contact with humans I do not know.

In closing I want to thank you Monty for sharing with the entire world, your vast knowledge of equine behavior and showing people how they can better interact with horses and other creatures, even humans. I have done some partially successful Join-Ups with some of our horses except for one docile little mutt who refuses to go into flight mode! So I want to study more of your lessons and put them into practice, therefor I intend to re-enroll, as soon as funds allow.

I apologize for such a lengthy story but, I was so fascinated, by this chance encounter, I just had to share, in hopes that other readers may find it interesting. I want to point out that the terrain we were in allowed me to keep some sort of obstacle; a tree, a stump, a fallen log, etc. between us, (just in case) at all times.
Although my Buddy showed no sign of aggression I thought it best to be careful. Thank you, and I do hope you will be able to find the time to respond. Sorry, I know you are a very busy man.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for sharing the details of your encounter. You probably already know that my life has been filled with similar episodes. I have been able to write regarding about 10 percent of similar encounters. My life has been blessed with so many opportunities to communicate with the wild animals inhabiting this earth of ours.

There are so many educated people that have a hard enough time believing what I’ve been through as it is, I have never told the story about the dove on the fence of Flag Is Up Farms. I drove by in my pickup several times and realized that she just kept sitting there. I stopped, got out of my pickup, went to her and put my hand out.

I held my hand about six inches from her and watched as she elevated her wings and then just made a hop to sit on my finger. I had an employee in the pickup who was astonished by what he saw. Something had told me that this bird was ready to have a meeting with a human being. Nobody has to believe this but it’s true.

You had your encounter, nobody has to believe you either. Hold your memories as they belong simply to the two of you. I certainly can believe you, because I’ve had so many similar occasions. I will paraphrase how I see your episode taking shape and coming to a conclusion.
Let me suggest that there is a strong possibility that this horse was 11 or 12 years old and had been kicked out of his harem by a younger stallion. Let me say that it’s possible he was looking for some sort of meeting with another animal he thought he could trust. He wasn’t going to test the difficult terrain for that last few

inches, but as you suggest, he moved to a downwind position, this is not uncommon.

As the scent of your humanity drifted on the wind, let’s predict that it loaded up his olfactory plate. Let’s suggest that his mind was so preoccupied with you he suddenly realized he could no longer smell you. It was then that he blasted a huge volume of air across the plate to clear off the accumulated smells. He once again could identify odors with clarity, it was then that he probably decided not to take a chance on you.

Recently I had a similar letter from a man who took walks in the woods. This time it was a deer with the same sort of experience that you had with the horse. I suppose it’s fair to say that the closer I can bring people to the acceptable body positions the more of these kinds of experiences we will hear about. I would suggest traveling to the area as much as possible. You may even find another horse if your body positions are right.
Thank you so much for your inquiry. Savor this moment for the balance of your days. This horse will undoubtedly remember you. Remember, horses never forget anything, and I am sure this was a special moment in his life.

6/1/2016: Isn’t it dangerous at your age to work with horses when they are wild and out of control?

Monty’s Answer: It is always dangerous to work with an animal much larger than we are. It is true that I am less athletic today than I was 50 or so years ago. I love my work and when I no longer feel safe doing it, I’ll know. I didn’t get into the horse business until I was about four years old. The horses have been my professors for the other 76 years.

Having participated in the revolution to train horses in the absence of violence, I am continually inspired by the improvements in the concepts of Join-Up®. My decades of observation and experience keep my timing and techniques improving, even at 80. I firmly believe I am safer than most anyone who steps into the round pen.

Ask someone who has attended one of my recent demonstrations and see if you agree that the horses are relaxed and trusting when we get our work right.

5/25/2016: You have been working many years with horses. Are there still challenges in your work?

Monty’s Answer: Certainly the answer to this question is a resounding yes. Of course there are challenges, and I now can testify that if we want to, we can learn no matter how old we are. The past month has been one of the most productive of my life in terms of learning.

5/18/2016: You have been in Austria before; can you tell if there is a difference between the horses here in Austria and in other countries of the world?

Monty’s Answer: Since the horses are 50 million years old, I believe it is true that they are extremely similar over the entire globe. In our lifetime, we could note no differences in Austrian horses or horses from any other country.

5/11/2016: In Austria, the number of horses is growing constantly-do you think the problems with horses are also growing?

Monty’s Answer: The problems with horses are not growing at all, in my opinion. It is the problems that people bring to the relationship. We desperately need better education and more understanding of who the horses are and what they need.

May 4.16: Monty, is the language Equus changing over time?

Monty’s Answer: It is my opinion that Equus is not a language per se, but a communication system. The word ‘language’ refers to the arrangement of words and phrases to create well-formed sentences. Since horses’ communication is done with gestures, it is a bit different. Evidence from the drawings in the ancient caves show a system which has been in place for thousands of years. If it is changing, it is barely noticeable.

4/27/2016: I’m just starting my gelding and my wife’s mare. They are 3 and 4 respectively. They’ve both done well with Join-Up and do well on a lead. Maybe not relevant but I like to give a little history. So my question is, I really would like to learn to jump, so should I incorporate anything special in to initial work with my gelding?

Monty’s Answer: It has been about six decades since I was active in show jumping. The discipline has changed dramatically during that time. It is however, a strong interest of mine to watch the top people and to monitor the overall changes in the discipline. It has been my pleasure to help Will Simpson (Gold Medal winner in the China Olympics).

A visit this past week with John Whitaker was gratifying. He has been strong in his support for my concepts and has echoed my advice to the showjumping world that relaxation within the horse is far better than high adrenaline and stress ever was. As you well know my concepts are non-violent and the show-jumping world has moved that way.

You can help your horses’ introduction to jumping by creating a safe and fun learning environment. Keep force out of the jumping arena, work on good balance, and work incrementally without over-matching yourself or your horses so that your confidence in jumping can grow. Create a low-adrenaline learning environment so you can both enjoy the work.

Causing the horse to ‘want to’ is massively better than demanding that the horse obeys. We are still a work in progress to completely change the world, but I believe that my concepts are equally effective in virtually every discipline you could name. Thank you for your inquiry, stay in touch with us for any related circumstances.

4/20/2016: Your horse-language “Equus” is there for many years now-what is your recipe for success?

Monty’s Answer: First, I would like you to know that the horse communication system has been present for millions of years. I only discovered what nature already had in place. If I had a recipe for success, it would be through observation. I feel that I am best when I watch closely what horses are trying to tell me, and then act in an attempt to meet their needs.

4/13/2016: Last night a new foal was born. As he is Aguadeiro’s son I have named him Aguardente, firewater. He has a dun color with a dark stripe on his spine and Aguadeiro is really taking on the father’s role of protecting him, mostly keeping Lucas (gelding) away. How do stallions (he is now a gelding) know a foal is theirs?

Monty’s Answer: In the past I have written fairly heavily about urination and defecation. Both are connected to the psychological behavior of a horse. Having studied wild horses in their natural environment, I have concluded that stallions have a system of identifying individuals that live within their family group. It is my opinion that these stallions will take their harem and their offspring to certain water sources and then be sensitive to the smell given off their bodies because of the water they have been drinking

In addition to the water sources, I have watched stallions take the family group to areas where there was a particular bush or plant growing, it is my belief that they are very clever about identifying the scent of their family members by the water and the food most recently present in their diet.

4/7/2016: I wanted to get in touch to thank you for sharing your wisdom and insights with me and my friend Holly on Saturday night. As I mentioned when we spoke, I am a professional golfer and Holly is my caddy on tour. This is my first year on tour and I am really looking forward to growing and developing my skills in competition.

It was incredibly valuable for us both to hear you speak and learn how you approach your craft and your life. Like you, I love what I do and I hope that will help me to enjoy a long and healthy life.

My ambition this year is to earn a full card for the Ladies European Tour next year and following that I aim to play on the LPGA tour in America.

I have taken time to look into diaphragmatic breathing as you suggested and have begun to practice based on the tips I have found online. I have a tendency to take too much on in my mind, and often get a lot running through it at once. This can lead to anxiety as my default rather than relaxation. I know I need to work on this as much as I do other aspects of my game.

Do you play golf? If the answer is yes and you would ever like to play a game, it would be my pleasure to organise a game at any course in London. My home is at Wentworth Golf Club and The Centurion Golf Club. It was Neil McLean who was speaking about your work at a golf lunch in Dubai and so I have him to thank also for putting the idea in my head to go to watch you.

Monty’s Answer: First let me put your mind at ease as far as my golfing skills are concerned. I have played golf, a significant number of times, whilst I was traveling as a professional at horse shows and rodeos. I must admit, I was never a very good golfer, even with a bunch of cowboys to compete against. I remember breaking the 100 once, and that was an invitation for a very large scotch. Don’t volun-teer the pain it would be to escort me around a golf course.

It interests me that you have made your way to me for the purpose of improving your game. I promise you I could improve your game as I read your metabolic temperaments as you spoke with me at Hadlow college. I have worked with many professional athletes, and received great joy from many of their achievements. I feel that you represent skills and challenges at the same time.

I would be happy to communicate with you and your caddy as I believe she would be of great value, assisting you to understand my recommendations.

3/30/2016: I have a beautiful Welsh Section D pony. We have been together four years now and it has been some journey. When I bought him I was totally unaware that he was a remedial pony. After many challenges I was told he was dangerous and should be shot. I had some well-meaning but bad advice at first, then I was the introduced to your methods and I can’t believe what a gentle creature I now have, because he has a voice and we listen, he still has his feisty character which he now demonstrates in a more passive way, so first I have to say a big thank you for teaching us the right way and that it is never too late for us humans to learn to listen to our horses.

The issue we have is when we are out hacking which we sometimes do for a few hours, he may want to urinate and he won’t. I can feel he is uncomfortable and he is obviously reluctant to trot or canter, in fact his gait becomes unbalanced. I can imagine him crossing his legs.

I have tried dismounting to allow him to go but he just won’t! Can you train a horse to go to urinate when out to alleviate his discomfort and where would I go to get help?

Monty’s Answer: The short answer to your question is, “Yes, a horse can be trained to urinate on cue.” I have seen it to the extreme in Argentina. In that country all of the racehorses urinate on cue and into a container fixed onto the end of a stick.

One must create situations where urinating is most likely to occur. The primary circumstance is shortly after exertion or hard work. If one provides the horse with deep litter or sand and then accompanies that with a whistle or other signal, urination should follow.

Repeating this procedure many times will cause the horse to urinate on the signal. One must attempt to have a surface where splashing is not a factor. It takes some time and effort, but it can be done and I have witnessed it.

3/23/2016: I have a four-year-old paint and she is a loving mare. I’ve had her from birth and did all the ground work for riding. She is a strong will horse want to do things her way and if she doesn’t like it she will stand on her hind legs.
I started to walk with her but I can do just a certain time then she start to show me she had enough if I try to push her further, gently, she wants to stand up. I just scared she will fell back-wards and hurt or kill herself.

Her mother was never like that and I don’t know why she is the way she is. All the members at my Pony Club say she is spoiled and I don’t know where I failed her. I do my best to be as gentle as possible to all my horses.

She really don’t like it if I use my legs and don’t want to listen to me with my voice commands. If I lunge her she do exactly want I want her to do but if I get up she can get so mean. Please help, everyone say I must just sell her to someone but my horses are my family and I really want to ride her one day. I really don’t know what to do anymore.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you so much for including me with your goal to be a better horse person. I have considered every word that you have written and I feel that it is absolutely necessary for you to learn a good deal more about why your mare does what she does.

Please allow me to suggest that you go on my Equus Online University via our website and I would request that you study as many lessons from that internet site as you possibly can. You can use the promo code ‘daypass’ for 24 hours access for a free trial.

You probably know that I am coming to South Africa and I would love to meet with you and possibly even meet your horse. Please continue to communicate and I will try to be as much help as I can.

3/16/2016: I love mustangs and know you do too. In light of the exceptional number of these amazing horses you’ve worked with, what do you love most about them? Are there certain traits that make them stand out to you among other breeds?

Monty’s Answer: Please understand that mustangs were brought here by the Spanish explorers. Their ancestors had been domesticated for hundreds of years. Typically they emanate from the North African barb horses.

When I speak of the mustang and how much I love these horses, I am referring to the wild variety. They have survived for more than 200 years because they are, in fact, subject to the survival of the fittest. They are hardy and honest.

My affinity for these wonderful animals is mainly because of their natural attitudes, they have not been adulterated by human connection. I love the way they respond to our actions with down-to-earth predictability.

It is my opinion that the true mustang is the best equine professor that we could ever hope for. They caused me to coin the phrase, “I’ll let the horses do the talking for me.” They have the answer to every question we seek about horses.

3/9/2016: If you met a person who was skeptical about your methods, and you had the chance to demonstrate one thing to them to change their mind, what would you choose to show them and why?

Monty’s Answer: My choice would be Join-Up®. Join-Up is proof that horses can trust humans and virtually all humans know that horses cannot lie.

3/2/2016: I have a dream to rescue and rehabilitate mustangs, using your methods, and let them live out their lives on a semi wild sanctuary. I’d want to join up with each one so it would be trusting enough to receive care when needed, but I’d only need to train a few as riding horses. Do you think if the trained horses were handled and ridden often, would it be okay to let them run with the others when turned out? I’d hate to keep just a few separated while the rest get to roam and play together. I thought if they were handled and ridden regularly, and the herd was gentled (just not trained riding horses, as I wouldn’t be able to keep all of them well ridden) the trained ones wouldn’t go wild, but I’d like to know your opinion.
Thank you so much. You are my horsemanship mentor!

Monty’s Answer: Your ideas are wonderful. I certainly appreciate the direction your mind is going, primarily because these horses have been misunderstood for centuries. While your concepts are well meant, you must realize that working with mustangs can be extremely dangerous. It is not that the horses mean to hurt a human, but they feel compelled to act out as they perceive the necessity of volatile actions in order to survive.

My first recommendation to you is that you either get a very good education on handling wild horses, or you bring in a hands-on person who has been trained in gentling wild horses without violence. Your question hits the bulls eye as to why we have courses in our international school, taking up this very subject. It has been fun for me to watch talented young people come to understand how cooperative these animals can be.

Another consideration is that one must provide a facility which is as well designed as possible, to be effective in handling wild horses and keeping them safe. One could put SAFETY at the top of the list of prerequisites in the handling of mustangs. You probably know that I indeed love mustangs and have allowed them to be my mentors for well over 70 years now. It has been a center piece of my learning.

It just so happens that yesterday I turned a four-year-old mustang out in the field with Shy Boy. It appears they will get along fine. Shy Boy will not get wild again, and the younger, wilder one, will probably become better settled and accepting of human beings in his life. One should learn all of the nuances of handling mustangs before we set out having a very good cause but insufficient knowledge.

Do not, for one moment, believe that I am telling you that you don’t have sufficient knowledge. You may be a genius at working with mustangs. It is possible that you have all the answers, but I have not met you, nor have I seen you work. It would be irresponsible of me to simply, casually encourage you to learn on the job. An injury to you would be blamed on these wonderful animals who mean no harm to us humans.

02/24/2016: Since a very young age I always had a passion for horses, but being a bit of a wild child never took the time to develop this area or in fact to think about others. After a 30-year break from riding, I took it up again about three years ago. I am now 63 years of age and over the past 25 years have managed to turn my life around. Being recently retired I would like to know if it is too late to train in behavioral problems for both equine and humans.

Monty’s Answer: It is my firm belief that learning never stops. I further believe that until our last breath, we are able to help others if we’re on a correct path. If I had stopped my work at 63 years of age I would have eliminated everything I have accomplished in the last 17 years. I can honestly say that if that were the case, it would have involved a huge percentage of everything that I have demonstrated to the world.

02/17/2016: During your lifetime you have made enormous positive changes in your quest to leave the world a better place than you found it for horses and humans too. What would be your legacy wish for the continuation and propagation of your work worldwide?
Stuart Randell

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. My wish is to leave the world a better place for horses and for people, too. My hope is that, when I am gone, my methods continue to transform the training and the treatment of horses, as well as having a positive effect on those people (sufferers of PTSD and victims of abuse) who need it most. My concepts are proven to satisfy most of the horses and people I’ve worked with.

02/10/2016: I would very much like to discuss equine dentistry with you. I have a three part question.

1. Do you think that the need for equine dental treatment in the UK has increased in parallel with changes in horse management? Is it possible that moving away from access to a natural environment to confinement in stables for a large part of each day, winter and summer alike, is causing dental change? Especially when these animals are often confined in small paddocks without trees or other natural features when turned out to graze for a few hours each day.

2. Has there been a similar change in the USA?

3. How would you advise people to acclimatize their horses to treatment by an equine technician, especially if they are using the modern electrical equipment? What would you include in the technician’s training to ensure that they employ the best possible approach when handling the horse, especially when using electrical equipment?

BACKGROUND TO THE QUESTION

I am now in my mid 60s and spent my formative years on a family friend’s farm, stables, riding school and hunting yard with about 70 horses. I cannot recall any horse in the 1960s and 70s being given dental treatment, apart from one horse which was treated by the vet each year because she had a deformed mouth from a previous accident.

Only the hunters and a few horses owned by staff and one or two liveries were over-wintered in-doors. All the rest lived out all the year round. They had a plentiful supply of hay with natural forage and shelter over a large range of fields. All the horses, hunters and liveries, were turned out over the summer months.

I believe that the lack of dental treatment in those days was not due to neglect, but rather lack of need. Living in a more natural environment with natural forage, trees, bushes etc horses and ponies did not need dental treatment in the way that they do now.

Would you agree with this? Is this the same in the USA?

I understand that there is currently some controversy in the UK over whether all equine technicians have the correct qualifications and training, especially if they traveled to the USA to train before training was provided in the UK. I have noticed that some technicians in the UK are now using electrical equipment. It would therefore seem important to acclimatize horses and ponies to the sound and feeling of this equipment. My experience was that my 18yr old cob, who has had a difficult life and probably came originally from the Travelers, has never properly accepted clippers and reacts to anything new that she is not familiarized with yet a young technician, without my knowledge, was employed by the yard and tried to go straight into her stable and use electrical equipment on her. Of course the horse reacted. Thankfully a subsequent visit from an older technician using manual methods went smoothly.

Monty’s Answer: I agree with virtually all statements made in this question. I would add to the circumstances the fact that so much of the modern day feed is processed. Chopping, cubing and pelletizing are processes which remove the horses natural ability to masticate their food. The very fact that horses are often stabled steals from them the browsing that will assist in natural dentition.

A part of this question would lead me to say that all equine dentists should be trained in a non-violent form of handling the horse for dental procedures. This is important even if electrical instruments are not involved. The addition of the sounds and tactile elements of electrical instruments make it all the more important that we should effectively desensitize before we do dental work.

2/3/2016: I have been a member of IH for over twelve years now and have followed your work and attended many of Kelly’s courses. Apart from being able to transform the way we work with horses I have also been able to use your philosophy and methods with difficult children who I used to work with. I was also briefly involved with using horses in a therapeutic way with war veterans. I am now retired and work voluntarily in a prison. I would love to have the opportunity to talk with you about how it would be possible to use your methods with inmates or even the prison officers. So many of our offenders are, like our difficult horses, victims of horrendous abuse. Our penal system is so punitive and robs its population of any self-esteem and sense of hope. Humans are after all only animals and I am convinced there is a better way to deal with criminals than shutting them in cages. Many thanks for all you have taught me over the years.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you so much for your inquiry. It gives me the opportunity to ask the question about the number of victims in the following scenario. An old lady is walking down the street when a very large man jumps out and bashes her to the ground, takes her purse and runs off down the street, disappearing into an alley. I ask, how many perpetrators did you see? One. Correct, I respond.

Then I inquire, how many victims did you see? One. That is not correct. I ask my students to follow me down the street and up the alley. I ask them to find the perpetrator and inquire as to how he was raised and what his idea of a good life actually is. One will virtually always find that he is a victim too. Anyone who would perpetrate a crime such as this is likely to be a victim.

The fact that he is a victim doesn’t absolve him from also being a criminal but, at the same time, it also does not eliminate him as a human who could possibly be helped. So many of the horses I work with fit this category. Instead of calling them hopeless savages I believe that most of them can be rehabilitated if the concepts and the effort are expended to meet their needs.

1/27/2016: I work in adult education and am passionate about lifelong learning. Do you believe it is always possible to learn more about horses and are you still learning now at 80, or do you feel that horses have familiar responses and, once you have trained enough horses, you’ve learned everything you could?

Monty’s Answer: It is absolutely true that in this, my 80th year, I believe that I have learned more than any other year I have experienced. It is my firm belief that learning only gets more attainable as the years to by. I am of course eliminating circumstances of aging that would limit brain functions. Do not seek an excuse from me for getting too old! I believe learning never stops.

1/20/2016: I am passionate about bringing Natural Horsemanship and Spiritual Healing and Communication together for the benefit and well-being of the horse. I would love to know how Monty feels about this and whether he feels it is possible. So many people own and spend time with horses, but they just don’t see or understand them!

Monty’s Answer: Recent years have seen me hard at work using horses in an attempt to heal the stresses of combat veterans. It is also true that I have worked hard to find value in horses helping autism, youth at risk and battered wives. There is an enormous value for the human being able to learn trust from the flight animal. We know they can’t lie, so when they choose to trust you is it profound.

It should be known that I am critically interested in all aspects of improving the welfare of horses. My education is in pure science. It is my opinion that a concerted effort will find within that world the answers we seek. I am of the opinion that the term ‘natural horsemanship’ is an oxymoron in itself. I will keep working on it!

1/13/2016: I watched a demo with you a couple of years ago, after reading your books and can honestly say it was the best night of my life. I actually cried, I was so moved by it. Having been in a previous relationship where I was treated badly and experienced daily anguish, I really felt an empathy with your methods and was so fascinated by your life and how you had developed these new ways of communicating with horses.

Also your work with war veterans is amazing & so inspiring. However, some of my peers and associates criticized me for liking you, and said that your methods were actually harmful to horses and caused great stress. I still see people saying this here and there on various groups I am in, and just fail to see why they think that?

So my question is: What do I say to them in response? How do you deal with them saying that your methods are stressful and harmful to the horse? As I truly want all the horsey people I know to try your methods and see how wonderful the partnership between human and horse can be improved. An understanding can be reached on a deeper level of feeling and understanding. That’s a beautiful thing!

Monty’s Answer: Throughout history there is a great effort to maintain the status quo. It is difficult for people to break with tradition and accept new ideas. I suppose this is a good thing in many instances because a new idea should have to jump through critical hoops before it is accepted and included in our everyday life. Having said this, I too find it difficult to believe much of the criticisms I receive.

No one who is honest with themselves could actually watch my work and come away honestly feeling that I was causing great stress to the horse. This seems to be something they have to say in order to balance the playing field and give tradition a chance. We have had traditional horsemanship with violence for 6,000 years. I believe it is time for a new set of concepts.

Terry Pendry, head stud groom to The Queen, has advised me that I should always say, “I let the horses do the talking for me.” The critics that you mention would do well to take a step back and observe the question of the horses before arbitrarily forming the conclusion that there is stress or harm brought to them. I pride myself in the fact that my horses are never demanded from.

1/6/2016: Monty is so open and honest in everything he says and does that I feel he answers all relevant questions through his writing, his Equus Online University and during live appearances. I would like to give him the chance to get feedback or views from “Joe Public” on things he wants to know more about. What would he ask me and my friend?

Monty’s Answer: It is 30 years now that I have been doing public demonstrations. It concerns me that a low percentage of my audiences actually go home and put my concepts to work for them. I suppose I would like to ask each audience, “Are you willing to go back to your horses with an open mind and a dedication to put these concepts to work so as to reduce the violence endured for centuries.”

12/30/2015: We look to you to teach us and help us learn about horses – their language, their needs and how we can live in harmony with them. What are you still looking to learn about – is there anything about horses that is still a mystery to you? Joanne Irving

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for inquiring of me and stating that you look to me for help to learn about horses. Your question is asking me to tell you if there are still things I want to learn about. Let me state that I have no idea what I still want to learn about. All of these questions are still out there in the universe somewhere. And each of us must continue to be observant so as to discover their needs.

Some people consider me a genius, others have great problems with my concepts. Let me be the first to tell you that I am no genius. The Wright brothers knew more than anyone on earth about manned flight on that day at Kitty Hawk. What they actually knew was a scratch on the surface of manned flight, and since I am the very first to introduce my concepts, I too am scratching the surface.

Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth asked me to write my first book in 1989. I wrote it and it became a bestseller. I must confess that I have learned more since 1989 than I ever learned prior to 1989. There is still so much to discover and then to process and deliver to these animals that rely upon us to meet their needs. Each of us must work diligently to perfect the application of these concepts.

12/23/2015: If you could turn back time, what one thing would you change and why?

Monty’s Answer: I learned a long time ago not to worry about what I might have changed in the past. Everything has a time, a place and a purpose. I used to say that if I could do it over again I would go public earlier but looking back on it I realize that the world simply wasn’t ready for me any earlier. It’s true that I am still pushing through great rejection of my concepts. I am pleased that I even did it.

There is not one thing in the lives of any of us that we can dramatically change after the fact. So any energy that we expend trying to discover what we should have done is taking away from the time we to finally get it right. There are so many things that I should have done differently. While I can’t change those now what I can do is attempt to get it right for the balance of my days.

12/16/2015: I expect you have become a very good judge of character over the years. Horse owners can be tricky I think! I have seen you at Myerscough five times and I wonder if you assess the human person before taking their horse into the training session?

Monty’s Answer: I feel that I have become a better judge of human character. It is with that in mind that I have to answer your question by saying yes, I do assess the person bringing me a horse for a demonstration. I have reached a point where I find it very difficult to work with a horse and then send them back to someone that I feel will be unfair or unreasonable. It makes me a liar to the horse.

12/9/2015: What is the one thing you would like to change about humanity and be remembered for?

Monty’s Answer: Dear Adrian, Humanity needs so much changing. How could you ask me to define the one thing that humanity should change. It is hard for me to calculate the number of changes that I would like to see made. But when pondering your question, they all fall into the category of non-violence. We humans tend to believe we can fix anything by over-powering it, when in fact nothing could be further from the truth.

12/2/2015: Knowing the difficulties you had in your childhood, if you could visit the young boy or young man you once were, what would you say to him now you’ve had 80 years’ experience of life?
Helen Palmer

Monty’s Answer: Most people who follow my work know of Sister Agnes Patricia. She was a primary school teacher of mine. Each of the pieces of advice she gave me would be incorporated into this answer. They came to me seventy years ago, and they are as true today as they were then. They have formed the body of my concepts and she is the reason that I entered the world of non-violent horsemanship.

If I had the opportunity, I would tell my younger self to listen carefully to those who love and advise you with care and consideration for the future. I wanted to be violent with my father, and she reminded me that he deserved it, but that I would be doing the same to him that he was doing to me. I would tell my younger self that violence is never the answer. It’s for the violator and not for the victim.

11/25/2015: Dear Monty, I adopted a mustang filly from the BLM in May. She is between two and three years old and was born on the facility in Palomino Valley, Nevada. She is in good health and a very gentle, kind horse. I have halter trained her, lunge her, pick up her feet, tie her, can catch her easily and pony her off the other horses for a mile or two once or twice a week. She is a delight. BUT, about a month after coming to us she started pacing up and down the fence, always to the north (which is the direction she came from) for about 60 feet, then turn and go the other way.

Before I adopted her, I watched her on three different occasions for a couple of hours each time. She was busy then too, but I didn’t think of it as pacing. She was in a pen with maybe 100 other fillies (all about the same age). She would roam around that pen visiting different bunches of horses, play with the gates and just check things out, but didn’t stay still for long.

We have two other horses, a mare and a gelding. They have bonded with her, but she is on the bottom of the pecking order. The others don’t hurt her, but do let her know when they want her to back off. They have separate pens, but are allowed several hours together after they have eaten. The pens are plenty spacious for them to run and I have an arena and some large pastures which she has been turned out in, but goes right back to pacing if she doesn’t have anything to do. I have given her toys, but she ignores them. If I go to her, she will stop and happily do anything I ask, then goes back to pacing.

The vet thinks it’s behavioral. I have not experienced this before and am wondering:

1. If there is some kind of problem
2. If there is anything more I can do
3. If this will go away

Do you have some ideas for me?
Thank you,
Sue
Coleville, CA

Monty’s Answer: There is a problem, and that is all horses tend to be bored at times, and will often express that by pacing to and fro. The racetracks and equestrian facilities of the world are full of horses which ‘boxwalk’, pace or weave. These are considered stable vices and are not uncommon. You are dealing with a natural tendency with the horse in question. It is doubtful that there is any physical problem.

My experience over the decades is that a horse like this needs more in the way of a herd. It is not always convenient to create a herd, one must realize that her nature is to wander over thousands of acres with a family group of many. I have made use of animals other than horses to help me create company for the behavioral pattern that you describe in your question. I have found them to be very effective.

Goats, sheep, dogs, even a cat have helped and would you believe that in one case I had a horse fall in love with a parrot. This made it easy for this particular talented gelding to travel on an airplane, while before his parrot friend, he was banned from flying due to his volatile behavior in the tiny enclosures that are the normal method of transportation while in the air. It is dangerous and they simply denied the horse the right to fly.

This particular horse happened to have a parrot that lived in a cage right outside his stable. I was called in to assist with this dilemma as the horse had extreme earning power if he could be flown to racetracks all over America and Canada as well. I noticed that he relaxed and loved being near his parrot. It was considered ridiculous in the early going, but people ultimately agreed that it was the answer to the problem.

My recommendation is that you first introduce a goat, sheep or other animal to your horse, where the small animal can be safe but in close proximity to your horse. Within a few days, the small animal can probably live right in the stable with the horse. Nature has fortunately set it up so that these smaller animals eventually fall in love with the horse, so they will tend to stay together even in the field. It is often successful.

11/18/2015: I have a nine-year-old sport horse mare who I have had from four years old always been bad to clip. The first time she knocked a wall down I think it is partly fear and worry and the rest is being naughty doesn’t help she is ticklish. Over the years I have been kicked by her she doesn’t even like being brushed in certain areas like her tummy or stifle. When clipping she runs away and tries to kick. I have spent time rubbing them over her body which is fine until it starts cutting her hair. I have hobbled her before and twitched for safety reasons for both of us which helps but don’t know what else to do. I don’t like it and she makes me angry when she miss behaves. I spent an hour the other night just getting her to accept them on her leg I had her loose so she could get away and with the time it did help but she kept kicking and flicking her forelegs every time I touched. She is so sensitive and also very twitchy and I’m scared I will catch her and she will kick me. Please help.

Monty Answers: The first possible cause of your mare’s behavior could be physical pain or discomfort. Ulcers and other ailments to the digestive tract or reproductive organs could be an underlying cause for the behavior you describe. It is therefore critical that you consult a veterinarian as a first line of investigating this problem. Once you rule out or address possible physical causes then you can address the behavior with training, with the help of a toothbrush.

It is now possible to buy electric toothbrushes almost anywhere. Get one, and tape it to a bamboo pole or similar light stick of some sort. Make it long enough so that you are completely out of any danger. I recommend the use of the Dually Halter so as to educate your horse to stand while you are out of the kick zone. Stroke your mare first with the toothbrush off.

Once you have her standing allowing the toothbrush and the pole to touch her everywhere, then turn on the toothbrush and begin at the wither. Continue to work broadening the area you touch. It may take some time but every horse will eventually learn to like the massage effect of the vibrating toothbrush. Give her a good reason to trust the sound as well as the vibrating movement.

This mindset must become part of your horsemanship before you will be completely successful with any challenge that your horse exhibits. One must be prepared to take some time with these challenges, accomplish a diminishing of the fear, and then habituate your horse to accepting the frightening object. Enter this with the knowledge that it will work and you will be successful.

Horses can read your pulse rate, your adrenaline levels and any level of anger that you have within yourself. Try, at all times, to set up your procedures so that you are in a safe place and you can keep your adrenaline down and have no anger. Once you have done this, then I recommend that you smile, go about your work, and watch how successful you will suddenly become with your horse.

11/11/2015: My name is Brooke and I’m a current student at Marcus Oldham in Victoria, Australia. I love working with horses and creating bonds with them, especially the ones I buy from the slaughter houses here in Victoria who just need to be shown some good old Tender Loving Care and guidance.

I have chosen to create an assignment based on your natural horsemanship methods. I have read From My Hands to Yours and many of your online e-books, watched your Join-Up and Shy Boy videos and am consistently watching your updates on YouTube.

I also came to your clinic in Sydney in 2013, which I really learned a lot from. I would really appreciate if you could write back to me regarding why you have chosen and developed your methods as opposed to breakers and trainers of the English and thoroughbred industry?

Also do you believe that, to prevent being disposed of or abused, most if not all horses can be reached and helped with your methods of choice? if so are there limitations, if not how to read and determine sooner rather then later, a horse that is unreachable and deemed unsafe.

Monty Answers: Thank you for your inquiry. Please, be aware of the fact that I never created or invented my body of concepts. The only credit I can take is for observing what nature already had in place. The abuse I suffered as a child growing up caused me to desperately want to level the playing field for horses and for people, too. It was simply a hope that I could break the pattern of violence I observed.

My choice of these concepts came not from my intellect, but from the requests made of me by the horses, children and battered wives that I dealt with from the time I was 4 years old to the present day. The only credit that I should receive is for what I consider to be my inherited ability to observe and indelibly imprint those observations onto my brain so as to be able to act upon them at a later time.

With regard to information brought to me by the thousands of horses that I have dealt with, let me say that I have come to the conclusion that way over 90 percent of all horses can be dramatically improved upon through the proper presentation of the concepts horses have taught me over my 80 years. Only a very small percentage must wear the label that indicates man has gone too far.

It is my hope that before my time is up I can convince a critical mass of human beings who can process these concepts understanding that violence is never the answer. The longer I navigate this earth of ours, the more I realize how non-violent answers have been there over the millennium without being nurtured or understood by most human beings. I’ll just keep working in an attempt to get it right.

11/4/2015: I have a question to ask you, if you have the time to answer. I am an adult that is very passionate about horses and have been my whole life I am always willing to learn as much as I can, however health issues have prevented me from having a horse, up until recently. I have been riding for 3 years and am quite inexperienced.

I have just bought a horse for my sister and myself, “Trigger,” a 15hh QH Palomino Gelding who is nine years old. Apparently he has done natural horsemanship before, barrel racing, stock work and trail riding, but I would question, if at all, how well he was trained in this, as he was bought from some non-horsey people who had him in a less than 10×10 backyard.

I received an email about Lesson 1 and have been watching your videos on Join-Up. I’ve been working on the basic steps of Join-Up, but have never done it before. We do not have a round yard, but his paddock at the moment is very small approx. (40m x 50m, but a weird shape) like a quarantine paddock. The first time I tried Join-Up, he ran around his paddock at trot most of the time, (I did have to send him forward though) looking for the horse in the next paddock and total ignoring me, then he started to move his ear toward me, then he drooped his head and started licking and chewing. Then all of a sudden he just like stood still and when took a step back and moved my body slightly sideways, he came straight in, and then just followed me. This took less the 5 minutes and I had never seen anything real (except in videos) like it before. I have been researching about JOIN-UP, because he is very hard to catch and when he sees the halter he walks away, the first day before I did JOIN-UP he did not just walk away he trotted away, (like saying “you’re not putting that on me”). But after join up he was very happy to be haltered, but he still lifted his head quite high, but stood still for me.

The questions are:
Once you have done Join-Up, should the horse always want to be with you and follow you every time you are (let’s say going to see him in the paddock)? Because I have been working on Join-Up for the last four days and the problems I have are:
When I go to his paddock he comes up, but shortly after I enter his paddock he backs off and walks away. (not all the time but some of the time). I try to be very aware of my body posture when approaching him so that he knows I am not-pushing him way. When he does that I say like, if you don’t want to stay and be with me then you have to go away far, and then I start Join-Up all over again, but he usually joins up really quickly. What am I doing wrong, how can i improve, or am I just being to impatient?

I have been using the lead rope (it is about 2-3 meters long) in a round action to keep him going around. So when he sees the lead rope, even when it is still or if I just move it a bit, he like backs off, I never hit him with it and I have been desensitizing him to it when he is standing still. Moving the rope over his body down his legs, over his back and everything? I don’t know if he was ever been abused before but he seems very wary of his halter, bridle. I have also used a long line to keep him going too. What can I do to improve his confident, and what am I doing wrong is there any issues with what I am doing?

Sometimes when he has joined-up, he gets distracted and looks around at everything, (he can be a bit spooky at times), but last evening he was really great and we took him to new areas on our property and he was very calm and still happily joined-up. Is there anything wrong with this, of so what can I do?

He has a preferred side, but I have been working both sides. One direction he will quicker than the other. Is this an issue, what do I need to do?

Sometimes he seems really lazy about joining-up, he will JOIN-UP then just dawdle about to follow me, if I walk faster he just keeps walking slowly, he usually walks behind me several feet, but I think walking behind me is because I am teaching him not to barge into human space, as he does and also does it when it is feeding time and he gets quite anxious when we ask him to move back out of human space.

This morning I worked on Join-Up and worked both sides he also turned really well, but tried to turn once without being asked, he stood up, seemed to just stand there and look at me once to say “well what”, and when I changed body posture and took some steps back and motioned that is was good to come in, he just turned away. (There was another horse being fed however, so he wanted to go that corner of the paddock). Another time when he started to come in I stopped so he stopped. What do I do?

Every now and again once he has done Join-Up he wants to put his head down to eat grass, so I change my body posture and ask him to move either to follow me or move right or left. Also I have seen videos that have shown that when a horse gets distracted/spooked when you lead them, you need to ask them to pay attention to you again and they showed to do this by moving your body so that the horse pays attention to you again. Is this correct and what do I do in this situation, he can be spooky and looks at new thing I don’t want to mess up anything?

In general once he has joined-up he is very relaxed, holds his head in a lowered position and licks and chews. Where as the first time I tried to catch him his head was so high I couldn’t even reach it.

There are some other issues, but if you have the time to help me, I would be most grateful, I understand that most of the issues could be me and my inexperience, but I want to learn and fix them so please tell me, I don’t mind if people tell me I am doing something wrong.

Monty’s Answer: It seems to me through your explanation of the behavior of your horse that you are tending to micro-manage the communication of Equus; the flight animal. From the tenor of your writing I feel that you are being far too human. You seem to be expecting your horse to act like a young human being that has memorized their lessons for the day. It simply doesn’t work that way in the real world.

Join-Up® is a conversation. Conversations, by their very nature, are slightly unpredictable and vary with personalities and can even change on a daily basis depending upon the mindset of the individual in question. My recommendation is that you continue to study Join-Up and all of the aspects that you have out-lined in your question. Don’t expect it to run to a script.

It pleases me that you are taking the time to learn more about your horse’s personality. If more owners would do this there would be far fewer problems in our industry. Continue to be observant and feel free to continue communicating with us so that we can stay aware of your learning curve and become more aware of the idiosyncrasies of the horse in question. I must say he sounds very normal to me and should not be expected to be totally predictable.

10/28/2015: I am considering the purchase of a lovely pony for my daughter, but are worried as it has scrambled once on the previous owner’s double float when placed on the left hand side. When pony is on the right hand side it leans on side of float at right hand turns only and looks like it is about to scramble at any stage.

My float is a wide single and we tried pony on this. It leans badly to right on right hand turns and drops its shoulder and hip to the right ready to scramble. I am wondering if anyone has tried a racehorse barrier blanket on a float scrambler with success.

Monty Answers: This question pleases me greatly. How well I remember traveling around Newmarket, England, testing the very question you pose. The horse was called Prince of Darkness, and he clearly settled the point with me that his phobia was only the foot rails in the starting stalls that drove him to scramble.

The factor that causes scrambling in a vehicle is virtually always traceable to a time when the stall was a bit too narrow, the partition went all the way to the floor, and the driver was a bit too heavy on the throttle and/or made the turns too abruptly. It is virtually 100% for these reasons.

Once the behavior is entrenched into the brain of the horse, it is very difficult to manage. A wider stall will help. Having a partition that is open at the bottom is essential. A stall on a 45-degree angle to the direction of travel helps greatly. Many call this a slant load or herringbone.

The blanket acts as a heavy bit of padding protecting the racehorse from the rails that jut out into the stall itself. I have never found them to be of any assistance in the scenario that you describe in your question. Often times a wide single trailer will do the job. Perhaps you can give it a try before you buy the pony.

10/21/2015: My name is Brooke and I’m a current student at Marcus Oldham in Victoria, Australia. I love working with horses and creating bonds with them especially the ones I buy from the slaughter houses here in Victoria who just need to be shown some good old Tender Loving Care and guidance.

I have chosen to create an assignment based on your natural horsemanship methods. I have read From My Hands to Yours and many of your online e-books, watched your Join-Up and Shy Boy videos and am consistently watching your up-dates on YouTube. I also came to your clinic in Sydney in 2013 which I really learned a lot from.

I would really appreciate if you could write back to me regarding why you have chosen and developed your methods as opposed to breakers and trainers of the English and thoroughbred industry?

Also do you believe that, to prevent being disposed of or abused, most if not all horses can be reached and helped with your methods of choice? if so are there limitations, if not how to read and determine sooner rather then later, a horse that is unreachable and deemed unsafe. Looking forward to your response.

Monty Answers: Thank you for your inquiry. Please be aware of the fact that I never created or invented my body of concepts. The only credit I can take is for observing what nature already had in place. The abuse I suffered as a child growing up caused me to desperately want to level the playing field for horses and for people too. it was simply a hope that I could break the pattern of violence I observed.

My choice of these concepts came not from my intellect, but from the requests made of me by horses, children, and battered wives, from the time I was four years old to the present day. The only credit that I should receive is for what I consider to be my inherited ability to observe and indelibly imprint those observations onto my brain so as to be able to act upon them at a later time.

With regard to information brought to me by the thousands of horses that I have dealt with let me say, that I have come to the conclusion that way over 90 percent of all horses can be dramatically improved through the proper presentation
of the concepts horses have taught me over my 80 years. Only a very small percentage must wear the label that indicates man has gone too far.

It is my hope that before my time is up I can convince a critical mass of human beings that can process these concepts understanding that violence is never the answer. The longer I navigate this earth of ours, the more I realize how non-violent answers have been there over the millenniums without being nurtured or understood by most human beings. I’ll just keep working in an attempt to get it right.

10/14/2015: Mr. Roberts, I feel I know the answer already but want to hear it from the horse whisperer’s mouth. I have been using your Join-Up methods with jaw dropping success, took a 4 year-old pregnant mare on a one-hour trail ride on her third saddle session with the help of Join-Up and your Dually Halter-I’ve heard you call it a “self training” halter and I TOTALLY AGREE.

My question is, I find the horses I’ve previously joined up with, may still be joined to me even two or more days after my last session with them. As in, I bring them back to the round pen for a session and they are locked on my moves and I therefore feel no need to do a traditional join up with them again. Is that correct?

Monty Answers: The question of how many Join-Ups, how often do I do Join-Up or my horse loves me and won’t go away anyway, often crosses my desk. Let me attempt my answer in this fashion. Join-Up is a conversation. It is a coming together of two minds and two bodies. If there is a strong feeling within you that your horse is joined up and wants to stay joined up, then I suggest that you simply walk briskly and observe your horse’s behavior.

If you have a mindset that would suggest to the horse that you really don’t care if he follows you or not and your horse still follows you, then give your horse a good rub between the eyes and go on about your day with no worries. If your horse breaks away from you, then proceed with Join-Up in the same fashion that you did with your preceding session. I often say that there is no need to tell the same story over and over again until your horse finds it extra boring.

Similarly I tell people that somewhere between four and ten full-on Join-Up sessions are generally sufficient for the life of most horses. Some extra wild mustang types might exceed ten Join-Ups but I would consider that rare. I go on to advise that Join-Up, a conversation, is a procedure that one should live by the concepts of for the life of the horse. Perhaps simply a step toward your horse and then a step away would be enough the bring your horse to you. Then you should clip on and go about your day.

The important factor in this answer is to cause you to realize that Join-Up is a conversation. Further, you should consider Join-Up as a element of your relationship with your horse that is without a script. It should be an ongoing organic existence between you and your horse. The rules should be elastic and appropriate to the environment of the moment as opposed to any effort to cast your actions in stone. It is my hope that I have brought an understanding to you.

10/7/2015: I have a little farm in Battle Ground, Washington. My husband, Tom and I have been for the past two years ground training Zoey, my 4 year old horse and we now have Sadie a 1 1/2 yr old. Zoey came to my farm as a very wild BLM Mustang and had barely been handled by people. It took me months before she could trust me and would finally let me touch her. I got a old copy of an early book of yours, The Man Who Listens To Horses. Tom read it and I am now reading it. I also recently got your book Shy Boy. Tom just finished this book and I will start on it next.

What I want to know is, is it okay to take my time at training these horses? My farrier says don’t rush it, that taking my time is smart and all of the ground work that I am doing will pay off. When I walk in the corral, Zoey usually follows me around in-stead of running off. She appears to be interested in being with me and tries to fol-low the commands on backing, turning in circles and leading with the correct lead. I also have put a saddle blanket and saddle on her, but have come just short of get-ting on her.

Now that we have the new horse, Zoey has become very jealous of the new horse, kicking her and biting initially, so we have them separated unless we are close by. I suspect that this jealousy is usual. Zoey hasn’t been around another horse for years and here is this new horse in her corral. Yesterday we did have the two horses out in the pasture together and they were for the most part getting along. Then Zoey started after Sadie and was verbally reprimanded and she stopped then tried again and Sadie ran to my side for protection.

Tom and I will keep working with the girls on the ground work and eventually we will get back to the saddle with Zoey. Its been 4 weeks now since the girls first met. I guess I shouldn’t rush it but just be consistent with my training.

Monty Answers: It appears that you are writing a question to an 80 year old man asking for permission to take a very long time to do what I might want done in a few days. I often say, “Get your procedures right and then go at them like you have all the time in the world and success might come in the first session.” You have not told me what your level of riding is like. With this in mind I could never recommend that you donate yourself as a first rider of any horse let alone a mustang. If you have not ridden to an expert level then you should not be a first rider.

It is also true that you have not mentioned your age and I have to tell you that I no longer want to be the first rider on any horse and yet I have been riding tens of thousands of horses since the age of four. I won nine world championships in the show ring and two in rodeo and I know enough to state that it just isn’t worth it to expose yourself to the potential injury from a horse that has not had a rider on. In fact, I would go so far as to say that unless you are an excellent rider who “has extensive experience as a first rider,” I can’t recommend it.

There are plenty of young athletes around that have been trained to ride as “first timers.” It is my bet that the fee they would charge is far less than that of the doctors and the emergency room. Horses have a bad enough reputation with the hospitals as it is. Should you become injured by your horse statistics will go into the books blaming the horse for causing injuries to another human. It is my opinion that you would not want this for your horse or for yourself. I do not want to seem simply negative but I am trying to give you prudent information.

Reading your question leaves me with the strong opinion that you have not done the full complement of procedures that I recommend to everyone that intends to introduce their horse to its first saddle and rider. Have you had a surcingle on the horse, tightened the girth and allowed the horse to talk trot and canter with that equipment in place? Have you worked the horse on double lines? Have you desensitized the horse to plastic bags all over it body? Have you made up or utilized some form of mannequin rider to test your horses acceptance?

From My Hands to Yours is my textbook on the procedures I recommend. It, along with my Equus Online University, is loaded with suggestions and education in the area of causing the horse to accept its first rider. Please avail yourself of easily available advice on how to accomplish this procedure while keeping yourself in the safest possible environment. I recently viewed a video from a scientist who considers himself a horseman. It was extremely scary to observe what this man was suggesting as adequate preparation for the first mounting.

In no way am I trying to persuade you to give up your thirst for knowledge about training horses. It is also true that I am not asking you to compromise your feeling of bonding with your particular horse. I am advising you that it is all too often that I am asked to advise people that have already taken their chances, sustained their injuries and have become too frightened of horses to continue their work with them. This is difficult for me to process given that with more than 75 years of first rider experience I have seen the pitfalls first hand.

Please take my advice and seek further information before taking unnecessary chances.

9/30/2015: I’ve had my horse for four years and he’s been a dependable, level-headed horse. This is very good as I often ride alone, and I need him to be trustworthy. About a month ago he started having days when he didn’t act right – jumpy and just so different than his normal behavior. At first I didn’t realize anything was wrong because he was controllable when I was riding. Three times he’s broken away from the trailer when I’ve had him tied and that’s a major problem. To make a long story short, it finally hit me that there was something bothering him, and as I’ve seen the effects of Lyme before, decided to have the vet take blood and test him. Sure enough, he had a high, active Lyme count and he’s been on Doxycycline for over a week now.

My problem is he’s learned a bad behavior in pulling away when he’s tied and he’s also kicking in the trailer which he’s never done before. I’m not tying him now when I saddle him, but making him stand ground-tied. I don’t want to add any stress to his life, especially as he’ll be on doxycycline for 30 days. I rode him for 2 1/2 hours yesterday and he seemed much more like himself, but the kicking in the trailer worries me because I don’t want him to get hurt.

How can I get him to ride in the trailer without fussing? He self loads, and always has, so that’s not a problem. Also, how can I teach him to be tied to the trailer again without trying to break loose? I don’t want to do anything wrong, and make the problem worse, so as I read your newsletters and love your advice, decided to ask you before going ahead with anything.

Monty Answers: Thank you for the elements of the question that you sent through. My textbook From My Hands to Yours has a chapter devoted to the horse that kicks in the trailer or in the stable. I have learned several valuable lessons so as to employ techniques that stop down this unacceptable behavior. From My Hands to Yours, my only textbook, has a chapter on the use of the Kicking Rings. They are humane and effective.

Pulling back is one of those unacceptable behaviors that is absolutely pervasive in the horse world. I have seen the Pulling Back syndrome expressed in every one of the 38 countries in which I have worked with horses. This behavior also has a chapter in From My Hands to Yours. In addition my Equus Online University has a video lesson on the act of Pulling Back and breaking loose.

To get you off and running, the Kicking Rings look like bracelets but are impossible to fully describe in this sort of written response. Know that there are drawings and words in the book which bring clarity to the procedure. In addition to that, Pulling Back is covered in a video lesson on my Equus Online Uni and I would advise watching it as opposed to reading it. Let us know the results you experience.

9/23/2015: My name is Celia and I will try to be short. I have started to ride 2 years ago. I was riding several horses but I liked one more – a Furioso North Star. At some point, I decided to buy him and I did it. Everything went just fine, we even competed as a beginner couple at an endurance competition. Last year the weather was so bad that I couldn’t work with him – or even see him – about 8 months. When we met, I noticed that I started to be afraid of him – sometimes. Not always. Just have moments when I fall psychically and he feels it. I was sure that after 8 months of inactivity he would go crazy in the field and I think that this is how it all started. Currently I moved him in another place, where I can go no matter the weather and there is a good personnel that is able to train him and also me. But I just feel I need to do more – I mean, I guess the problem is in my mind. The fear comes from what he could do, not from what he already did. Are there some exercises or techniques I could use in order to build a stronger relationship of trust with him? I should trust myself more, because when I am confident he is fine, if I am losing confidence he is losing his trust in me and therefore I am losing my trust in him. Complicated.

Monty Answers: Thank you very much for your inquiry. In your explanation I heard almost nothing that was unnatural or uncommon. Horses weigh a half ton or so and can move quickly so it is the nature of human beings to be from slightly to phobically frightened of these animals that inherently can be dangerous. It is also clear that horses inherently fear human beings who are, in fact, predators.

The words in your statement indicate to me that there is a significant need for you to become educated about horses to the extent that you understand this and therefore can deal with them in the absence of fear. It is necessary that you learn that horses mean you no harm. Horses are neophobic and they are also phobically frightened of predators. Each of these elements can be overcome.

It is my strong recommendation to you that you go, at once, to my Online University and observe as many lessons as you possibly can. These will cause you to become cognizant of the behavioral patterns of horses. They will also edify to the extent that you understand and therefore fail to fear of the horse’s behavior. There are over 360 lessons for you now – each one a treasure trove.

In addition to my Online University, my textbook From My Hands to Yours is the written set of standards designed to clearly outline my concepts. If somehow you could put your mind around all the information found on these two locations, I absolutely guarantee your fear of horses and their fear of you would be reduced in a significantly positive way.

Please come back to us after you have put this information to work and let us know the outcome. For your pony’s sake, study those lessons on Spooky Horses and the message that one can allay those fears that may have been exacerbated by less than competent human beings going before you in the formation of the behavioral patterns your pony is expressing.

9/16/2015: What would be your tips to help a horse accept the shower of its legs first and then all body? (Of course not during wintertime or too cold weather.)

Monty Answers: So often I hear the statement “My horse hates water” and I typically respond by asking “Does he drink water?” They will say “Of course he drinks water.” I then ask them to, with an open mind, realize that he doesn’t hate water at all. If deprived of water, you will find that horses crave water. It is only when the water is sprayed at them in what appears to be a frightening fashion, that you recognize that they can be frightened by the sight and sound of water under pressure coming at them.

Purchase a pistol grip water sprayer for the end of your hose (hose pipe). Place it on the hose, open the faucet and stand several meters from your horse and just spray the ground where you are standing and gradually move closer to the horse. Incrementally close ground until you can see that the water is bouncing off the ground and slightly touching his legs. Remain in that mode until your horse clearly is relaxed. Only move to a direct contact with a relaxed horse that has incrementally allowed the water to touch him.

Typically within 5 minutes or so you will be able to spray the feet and legs of your horse. Only after these incremental procedures are well in place does one attempt to spray the horses’ body or even the upper legs. Within a short period of time virtually every horse will learn to enjoy the spray of the water and it will alter their thinking to the extent that other scary procedures will be easier to cause your horse to accept them. Plastic shopping bags would be an example of the next scary object.

09/09/2015: I have recently bought a Shetland, which was known to be nervous around humans, but we now realize he is more than just nervous, but awfully scared of humans. We have allowed him time to settle down with his new surroundings and the other horses, and since then asked advice from others with experience of nervous horses, but nothing seemed to help. He runs away or flinches if we move our hands from afar and even tries to run through the electric fence when we first enter the field. Recently we have been sitting in his field for several hours, and holding out pieces of carrot, which he takes, which is obviously a very exciting breakthrough for me, but I was wandering if there was anymore tips to help such a scared pony?
Regards, Danielle

Monty’s Answer: It would please me if I could somehow inform you of the number of individual equine animals that I work with, in any given year, which exhibit exactly the same behavior you have described in your question. Just as with humans, each horse has a different personality and has received abuse of various descriptions. Nothing you have outlined surprises me. It sounds, however, as though the behavior you have clearly communicated is completely normal given the circumstances, which more than likely occurred.

While you feel it is a breakthrough to have the pony accept food from your hand, I have never found this to be an appropriate measure to deal with the fear of an abused animal. Your question would nearly require a book on the fear response of Equus. On the Equus Online University, we have many lessons that deal with these challenges. Join-Up® is an essential element to attempt in the beginning. The ‘lake and stream’ procedure could well be of great assistance in this case. One must read the pony’s reactions.

Reading your animal and moving to accepted measures is critical to an incremental approach to solving this problem. It just so happens that I am currently working, two sessions a day, with a family group of wild deer. If you think your pony is sensitive to the movements and presence of human beings, just imagine that when I make a mistake the deer will leap 15 or 20 feet and run 40 or 50 yards frightening the balance of the herd so that it takes hours to get back to the point you had achieved earlier.

In addition to the deer, I am currently working with several mustangs that are simply a scaled-down version of the sensitivity exhibited by the deer. In the next week I plan to do several video lessons for the Equus Online University that have to do with a new form of gentling that I have recently discovered. It has to do with inflatable exercise balls, which many other trainers have utilized but I have discovered what appears to me to be a different approach to their use. Watch for these lessons in the next months.

It is clear that you need answers now and not months later, so let me simply tell you that I would start with this pony in a safe place with good fencing and appropriate footing. I would work on Join-Up for extended periods of time keeping my pulse rate as low as possible. I would eliminate the use of all food from the hand and I have written in many areas about the fallacy of feeding from the human body. From My Hands to Yours is the textbook of reference in this and many other areas you outline.

Plastic shopping bags on a stick will also come into play in my process, but only after the Dually halter has successfully caused the animal to cease the habit of blasting away from you. Please don’t despair. There are so many ways to overcome the problems of abused equine students. It can be fun to successfully cause your animal to trust you and bond with you, but it does not happen without patience and the skills required to read the needs of the animal involved. You can do it if you try.

If there is anyway to get this pony to me in California, I would love to include it in a course. I have no idea regarding your geographic location, but in addition to that there are the courses here where we can instruct by using animals of a similar nature to yours. I just completed a course which turned out to be extremely gratifying. It was called “Gentling Wild Horses” and could be the perfect educational environment for you and your pony to experience my procedures in action. Watch for new dates for this course.

09/02/2015: Any tips on the best way to approach this task? My instructor tells me to have the horse face the water and then kick or whip them until they go through. Intuitively this feels wrong.
Best regards
Warren C., England

Monty’s Answer: First of all, let me inform you that we are experiencing the longest draught in history in California. It seems to me that any horse would welcome a pool to walk through at this stage of the game. I often hear people say to me that their horse hates water. I remind them that I don’t believe that since he drinks about 5 gallons per day. They chuckle and say “I mean the kind they have to walk through.” If a horse doesn’t have to walk through water relatively frequently then it is something new. Horses are neophobic. In addition to being new, it is in the horse’s nature to fear the bogs that their ancestors had to stay out of or lose their lives.

When the water is murky neither the horse nor the rider really knows if it is safe to walk through it. Whipping and spurring is virtually never the answer to any of these problems. The best way to begin the journey of walking through water is to lead the horse from another horse once the subject horse is responsive to the Dually Halter with a safe 17-foot lead line. With a ridden horse that will go through the water to show your student how it’s done, it becomes much easier to successfully school to walking through the water. Once accomplished, then with rider on, have the experienced horse in front once again and then repeat until your horse actually wants to walk through the water.

For further study, there is a lesson on the Equus Online University pertaining to this subject called WALKING THROUGH WATER | Willing Partners™ Water Crossing with Pat Roberts http://www.montyrobertsuniversity.com/training/2031188737

08/26/2015: I have a 10-year-old Tennessee Walker mare whom I have owned for seven years. Five years ago her first trip to the mountains was with a group of other riders. She was doing fine until we encountered backpackers, which terrified her. Despite the other horses walking past calmly, her reaction was to rear, spin and bolt. It did not matter if she was in front, mid pack or at the rear of the line.

I set out to help her overcome this fear; my first attempt was to feed our horses in the pasture with a backpack on. She did not have issues with this after the first day. My next effort required the cooperation of the group of riders I usually ride with. I rode in the back of the line of six horses. If a backpacker or hiker was seen ahead, the other riders would alert me. Before my horse saw the hikers, I dismounted, led the horse up to them, stopped to talk a moment, mounted and continued our ride.

After repeating this a few times with success, I changed it a little by mounting while next to the backpackers. Again, after a few successful lessons, I then mounted before passing them and rode her past. This proved to be very helpful for her and soon she was able to pass hikers on a loose rein. We had no issues the next few rides where we encountered hikers.

Last weekend we took our first ride in the mountains this year near the Pacific Crest Trail which is busy with summer hikers. She did okay with the first several people on foot on the trail. The problem began when we began to ride faster than a flat walk on a seemingly remote section of trail. Our horses were doing a running walk when we encountered two backpackers ahead. We slowed down and the horses in front calmly walked by while my horse reverted back to fear, slamming on the brakes, rearing and spinning.

I stopped, dismounted, lead her over toward them and talked with them for a few minutes. Once the horse seemed quiet, we walked by and I mounted to continue my ride. The rest of the group, except for one understanding rider who stayed with us, went on ahead while I encountered hiker after hiker with the horse going through the old fear reaction. I tried to ride by one hiker and she tensed up and turned her butt toward them which I immediately corrected. She has never kicked but if she is so frightened, I cannot assume she would not.

She stands quietly while I talk to backpackers but if they reach to pet her, her eyes get big and she backs up. When on the ground I keep myself between the hiker and the horse. I like this horse and want to feel safe wherever I ride. I also want the hikers we encounter on the trail are safe. I will start over with the dismounting and riding by exercise that worked a few years ago. I am not sure what else to try. Do you have any suggestions or in-sight? I would like to understand why she is so frightened by people she encounters on the trail, with or without backpacks.

Thank you, Janis P.

Monty’s Answer: It is an interesting question that you bring to me. First of all let me say that I am proud of you for the approach you took and the innovations that you accomplished during the course of this journey. Please remember that all horses are neophobic. This simply means that they are extremely frightened of anything new. This could include different lighting or speeds of travel.

What I didn’t hear in your list of innovations was to come home and invite your local boy scout troop to come to your property for a hot dog roast, then have whole troop put on their biggest back packs and be prepared to jog past your stable 50 times in each direction. Nor did hear that you had the entire boy scout troop walk and trot past you while you rode on your favorite trail.

We happen to ride very similar horses, you and I. Nice Chrome, my horse, cannot even tolerate a chair in his arena that may have been there for up to three years. He is fine with it unless someone turns it over. Then it is new and he might try to spin out from under me. He comes to the mounting block perfectly. But if someone puts it in the arena it becomes a horse-eating predator.

All horses are neophobic but that doesn’t mean they all possess this characteristic at equal levels. Some are mega-neophobic. ‘New’ might mean that the lighting is different or as you suggest the speed of travel is different. Backpacks at home might be different than backpacks on the trail. These mega-neophobic horses have to experience as many of their phobias in every environment.

Chrome is not a horse that I want to ride down the trail for fun. I simply don’t think there is any way that I could expose him to each of the environmental circumstances that he would define as new. I think you did as good a job as you could but possibly you should do more of the innovations that you found success with. Change up their look as much as possible and you could be successful.

08/19/2015: Please help me find this answer. I heard you figured out why horses move when we make a sound with our mouth like ‘clucking’ or ‘clicking’. I haven’t found where your answer is and I am very curious.

Monty’s Answer: It occurs to me that it is quite curious to understand how one might have heard of the first half this question without being advised of the second half. Recognizing that these things happen I am happy to once again repeat the circumstances. It all occurred during the time when I was teaching a course at the Monty Roberts International Learning Center here at Flag Is Up Farms in Solvang, CA. I was working in the round pen.

A lady student inquired as to why I made the clucking and squeaking sounds while sending the horse away. I replied that when one makes these sounds the horse goes faster. “Why?” she asked, “Why do they go faster when you make these sounds?” I told her that I didn’t know why but it did work and when you want them to go faster make these sounds: it will be effective.

At the close of the day my Course Instructor came to me and reminded me of the fact that I had told my instructors to never tell students to do something just because you say so. You must give them good, solid reasons why they are given instructions to execute certain procedures. It is not fair to ever say “Just do what I tell you to do.” Good education requires that the student is informed as to why it works.

Its hard to describe how embarrassed I was that I had broken my own golden rule. I left the classroom, had an early dinner and went to bed before 9 o’clock. I have this life-long ability to run film or video clips of certain actions through my head just as if I was seeing a movie for the 2nd, 3rd or fourth time. Connected to this ability is the characteristic enabling me to see circumstances that I missed in earlier viewing. It is handy for a horseman.

It happens that I am a fan of David Attenborough. He is the preeminent presenter of animal documentaries on the face of the earth. A lot of his work is done in Africa and I recalled to mind a documentary on the stalking of lions. It tweaked my brain during the course of this journey. I watched a female lion stalking a Thompson’s gazelle. Tucked in close to the ground I watched as she quivered each foot before applying her weight to it. With that evidence I knew I had the answer.

Clearly memorable is the fact that I leapt out of bed at 2 in the morning awakening Pat with a loud shout “I got it!” Upon entering the classroom that morning I admitted to the group that I had broken my own rule. I explained to them the circumstances surrounding the clicking and squeaking and asked them to adjourn to an area outside the round. They formed a semi circle around me as I explained my sleepless night. We were standing under a beautiful eucalyptus.

Earlier I had noticed that there were small dead branches that had fallen from the eucalyptus. I gathered a handful of these and began to break them with my fingers. The different sizes made different sounds most of which fell directly into the category of clucking and squeaking sounds I made the day before. I asked them to now tell me why these sounds made horses go faster. One of them did a big a-haw! but the rest seemed to be a bit confused.

At that point I asked the class to ‘hone in’ on the image of the lion quivering the foot before pressing the ground. I explained that it was my position that an effective predator would come to know that breaking twigs would send the prey animal bounding away before their hunt could be successful. I felt like I had given birth to a whole new understanding of equine behavior. With that I exited quickly to the office on our farm. I had to make a phone call to seal the deal on my discovery.

The call was to Debbie to describe my 24 hour experience and to request that it be published in some format or other so that I would get credit for being the first to ever write about the breaking of twigs stimulating the horse to increase the speed of travel. Its another one of those things that I thought the world knew but I am happy to continue my effort to pass my discoveries along. I hope this answers the question.

It is highly unlikely that Mr. Attenborough ever observed this seemingly insignificant move of the lion quivering the foot. It is also unlikely that the documentary team put it together with the act of causing the prey animal to flee. It is, however, true that they leave me memorable footage of the lion’s foot with closeup, clear definition. It took me more than 70 years to understand why horses go faster when you cluck and squeak.

08/12/2015: Are your methods finally being accepted by the top trainers and professionals in the horse world?

Monty’s Answer: The majority of people who study my methods, use them and believe in their value, are simply lovers of horses. It would be wonderful if I was regularly approached by professionals to challenge me to demonstrate how my methods work. I wouldn’t care if they called my methods “alternative” or “touchy-feely.” I’d like people to recognize how my methods are more efficient. My methods cost less, are faster and safer and more humane than traditional training techniques for horses and humans. I invite professionals to consider my methods from the economic and safety standpoint.

My concepts are usually taken up by the people who enjoy their horses and use Join-Up methods as an alternative to traditional violent methods. Lovers of horses pull the traditional people along reluctantly to recognize the value of the concepts. I recently had Temple Grandin, author and animal advocate, on the phone and she said it like this: “The problem with being ahead of your time is that by the time people realize you were right, they will say it was obvious all along.”

A few years ago, there was a group of some of the best Polo players of the world gathered around my Round Pen to watch my work, many returned to learn more. Nacho Figueras, Joel Baker, Adolfo Cambiaso, Memo Gracida and the late Carlos Gracida all endorsed my work as a better way to start and train their horses. There are now approximately 3,000 horses trained in Argentina for world class Polo in my methods. This is a vast departure from the traditional methods. The upper levels are giving me confirmation that it’s better.

This is just happening now and I am 80. Why didn’t they listen to me when I was 20 and I had some time to do lots more?! I am happy that it’s happening in my lifetime though while people can avail to my 70+ years of experience and to challenge me to delve deeper into the concepts. I am very happy I didn’t retire to “go fishing” when most others do. There is much more we can all learn before I am out of here but I want to impart as much as I can before I go, and I hope that more professionals will become students again.

8/5/2015: I have a question. I watch a lot of horse videos, also from other horse trainers. Some of them, when working in the round pen, want their horses to turn in the other direction with their head turning inwards saying that it is impolite for a horse to turn their hindquarters to you. I noticed with Join-Up you don’t mind if a horse does that. Is it impolite for a horse to do so or not?

Monty’s Answer: At the time that one is sending the horse away, it should be desired of the handler to control the direction of flight as much as possible. Sending the horse’s head away from you is the act of controlling the horse’s direction. Backing off to allow the horse to turn toward you is allowing the horse to control the flight direction. As long as the handler is pushing the horse away, it is best for the horse to flee the handler throughout the turns.

When the horse turns away from you, he needs to let you come through his “blind spot,” which is a small section in his vision field behind him. So going through this procedure and finding no harm in it, is further trust-building. Once the handler goes passive, then the horse is given freedom of choice. When the handler is ready to invite the horse to come to him, and desires that the horse turns toward him, the horse can advance closer to the handler.

The act of fleeing is the natural way for the flight animal to move away. Study my books and videos to learn that your eyes on the horse’s eyes is sending away. When you turn your horse to go the other direction, you are turning by sending away at the eye so the horse should not come to you. Study closely my recommendations for the driving positions your body needs to be in to clearly communicate this.

Trainers who use a single line to lunge horses always pull inward to turn so as not to wrap their horses in the line. This traditional form of long lining has created the obvious pattern of making inward turns the routine. There are many reasons I recommend double line lunging, not the least of which is for a healthier anatomy. When you initially train your horse to turn away from you when changing directions, it will add consistency when you go to the double long lines and it is necessary to turn outward.

7/31/2015: I bought my gelding last year. He is terribly head shy and fights like crazy when trying to put a bit in his mouth. I managed a couple times but he does not respect it. I am now using a hackamore. Seems better. He’s happier with it and because I use your training methods and with your halter he has learned to trust and respect me. We have more to do. My question is what did they do to him and how will i ever get a bit back in his mouth?

~ Michelle B.

Monty’s Answer:

For nearly three decades I have been doing public demonstrations. When asked what remedial problem I am considered best at remedying, I consider it to be loading on a trailer or a horse transportation vehicle. It seems to me that head shy and refusing to be bridled would be a solid second.

It was with this in mind that we decided to do an early lesson on my Equus Online University that clearly outlines the concepts I use for dealing with the head shy horse including the horse that refuses to take the bit and bridle. No words that I could use here would be as educational as seeing it happen in video format. Please avail yourself of those lessons if at all possible. Start with this lesson dealing with Georgia, a head shy horse:
http://www.montyrobertsuniversity.com/training/2031188623

From My Hands to Yours, the textbook, also has a chapter on Head Shy. Each of these educational efforts recommend that you utilize a gentle, well trained gelding to assist you in the head shy category. We call this method Centaur. If putting the bit and bridle on is the most challenging part of this question, then I recommend the use of honey on a stick.

I recommend using the handle of a wooden kitchen spoon. Put a bit of honey on it, and eventually it will be sought after by the horse. The act of putting the handle between the teeth and the mouth becomes very simple. Once this is accomplished, then put the honey on the bit and soon your horse will be following you around to help put the bit on.

If the ears are still a problem for the crown of the bridle itself, get back on your gelding and desensitize the entire top of your horse’s head. Use straps of any kind to simulate a bridle and you will be well on your way to accomplishing the same success that you see on the Equus Online University.

Let me answer the question of “what did they do to him” by saying that it simply doesn’t matter what they did to him. One has the behavior to deal with and the methods I have given you will successfully solve the problems you’ve outlined. People do funny things, and it would only be speculation with no assurances we would have it right anyway.

Putting lip twitches on would do it, and then there is the twitch that causes pain to the ear. In addition, one may find they grabbed and twisted an ear in order to control the horse. Rest assured that very often the head shy horse who is difficult to bridle has been treated badly by human beings using violent methods.

Having gone over these protocols and educational tools for dealing with head shy horses, let me note that your use of the hackamore or any other bitless bridle for your horse is a great alternative if your horse is safe being ridden in this way. I am a fan of bitless riding and the hackamore was my primary piece of equipment during my entire upbringing.

The Dually Halter does provide one with a perfectly acceptable bitless bridle, and you will see it used often on my farm. There are however times when I find a bit more effective. It is not that I am insisting that people use a bit or that they refrain from using a bit, but when one is asking for world class stops, spins and lead changes a bit is often quite helpful to your horse.

Good luck and let us know how these suggestions help you.

7/22/15: Monty was recently asked by an equestrian magazine to give his top three tips for horse persons today. Here is the third.

Monty’s Answer: My third tip is very appropriate for me to discuss as I have just met Dr. Noel Fitzpatrick; he is known as the SuperVet for small animals in the UK. I would have to say that I totally agree with him that it is so important for humans to realize that our animals deserve a good life every bit as much as our friends and family. We all have a place on this earth and it is our obligation to learn how to enjoy our animals. We will reach a higher level of contentment in our lives if we successfully learn to love our animals and calmly and lovingly meet their needs.

7/15/15: Monty was recently asked by an equestrian magazine to give his top three tips for horse persons today. Here is the second of the three. Next week we will publish Monty’s third tip.

Monty’s Answer: My number two tip is to remind the readers that there are more educational opportunities for horse owners today than ever there has been since this old earth began to spin. After the violence is removed, the next obligation that the horse owner has, is to become educated as to the needs of their horses, training techniques, nutrition, foot care, and medical care head the list of challenges for the owner in the area of becoming fully educated.

7/8/2015: Monty was recently asked by an equestrian magazine to give his top three tips for horse persons today. Here is the first of the three.

Monty’s Answer: To give readers my top three tips is a chance for me to express the heart and soul of my mission. The stand-alone, number one tip is to remove all violence from the relationship that you have with the horse. Replace that violence with clear communication in the language all horses understand. I call this language Equus, and it is a silent communication much like signing for the deaf.

Question:
Writing to pick your brain as I’m sure through your experience and travels you have come across a horse like mine. His name is Royal. He is a 6-year-old Canadian gelding. I acquired him through the OSPCA so I don’t have much background info on him. All I know is that he was seized from his previous owner because they neglected him and he was extremely emaciated. He is now healthy and happy. Great guy, great ground manners, leads well, lifts feet, good to groom, stands in cross ties. Lunges off line well and really pays attention to his handler.

The problem I’m facing with him is that when any type of tack (saddle pad or saddle) is introduced to him, he steps 10 feet back. He’s extremely fearful, nervous to the point he starts to shake. With some persuasion, I can put the saddle pad on and off on and off, then the saddle. We haven’t worked up to doing the girth up on the saddle yet but I had a anti cast roller laying around so I figured well, this I won’t get to do up tight to secure it, there are no flaps to scare the poor boy. So again with some convincing, I was able to put it on and off, on and off. Then I was able to do up the girth. Once anything is on him, he is reluctant to move. I let him take his time to take this new piece of tack into stride. He stood still for the longest time, then all of a sudden he exploded. Running around that round pen as fast as he could, bucking for a bit but not big bucks, just as if he was trying to kicking at his belly to get the darn thing off. He then stops and starts to shake and just stands there, will not move. I enter the round pen, and encourage him to move with the anti cast roller still on him, he runs around and at one point does a nice little trot. So we end things on a good note, I remove the tack, give him a treat and back to his pasture he goes.

A couple days later, I repeat the above but get the same initial reaction as if he’s never seen it before. This goes one now for five sessions. I have tried Googling a solution to this problem but have come up empty handed. My question to you is how do I allow him to accept this tack without being so nervous that he wants to crawl out of his skin?

Thank you for your time,
Chantal B.
Ontario, Canada

Monty’s Answer: Quite possibly to your surprise I have met Royal, at every city I have ever traveled to throughout my career. I say this to you because everything you told me about Royal verifies that he is normal. Whatever made you think that horses want something on their back and a belt around their girth? They have 50 million years in their DNA telling them that this is probably a lion or a tiger. This is an normal response.

Please let me inform you that everything I have ever written videoed or created as a lesson for my Online University addresses these issues directly or indirectly. Please do not fall into the trap of expecting knowledge about horse behavior to fall out of the sky and land in your lap, clearly understood. These issues need to be studied, learned and correctly acted upon. My entire life has been devoted to better understanding the behavioral patterns of Equus.

It worries me that you have undertaken these early training efforts with what seems to be no idea as to how the horses brain works. Please heed my words that horses can be dangerous with no intention of creating harm. In the end when horse cause injuries, they get the blame even when they are acting completely normal. Please hear my warnings.

No one can blame you for using whatever methods you thought might be acceptable but it is my message to the horse world that one can be blamed for acting without seeking the knowledge necessary to execute training procedures with no attempt to gather the information necessary to execute in a safe manner. It is not fair to your horse or anyone else to fall short allowing the horse to take the blame.

Monty’s additional words:

Dear Chantal,

It is true that I find myself often saying that my critics are my best friends. They keep me getting up in the morning, and learning to be a better horse person as well as a better role model for horse people. Recently I personally answered a question of yours. For good or for bad, I personally answer every question on the Ask Monty newsletter. It has been brought to my attention that there have been five negative responses to my answer regarding your horse and his sensitivity to the girth area. If we were in a court of law, I might hear the judge say that the charges are that you failed to answer the question, talked down to the person asking for your help and spoke to her in a demeaning fashion. My plea would have to be GUILTY.

At this point in time I have had the question and answer read to me three different times. I failed to fully explain my recommendations for dealing with sensitivity to the nerve endings in the girth area. I used language that would indicate that you knew less than you should have known when in actual fact that is exactly why you were inquiring of me. I would like to make several excuses for why I believe that my answer was curt and short of the mark. The fact is that there can be no excuses for this inappropriate communication. I should know that better than anyone in the horse business as it is my mantra that communication is the center of all understanding where dealing with the needs of your horse is concerned.

Recognizing that there could easily be many people who may have wanted to criticize my answer, I am now communicating through this open letter back to the Ask Monty forum so that those who may have questioned my answer can see that I am trying to be the best source of information that I can, and doing it with understanding and compassion for those who seek information from me. I answer was not good enough by any measure, and I will attempt, herein, to put it right once and for all. If you are a regular reader of Ask Monty do not hesitate to speak your mind whenever you feel the need to. Remember that I appreciate compliments as much as I appreciate the criticisms that cause me to be a better person.

While I sincerely believe that I spoke the truth without deliberately meaning to demean, criticize or evade my reader, I failed to completely edify the questioning party as to my recommendations for successful problem solving the problem that she sought to put right. Girth-bound (cinch-bound or girth sensitivity) is a global phenomenon that exists in virtually every horse to one extent or another. Most horses can deal with this problem with two or three saddlings. It is true in this case that we have a condition which appears to have become chronic. Often times we hear these horses referred to as girth-bound or cinch-bound horses. This long lasting phenomenon must be carefully dealt with as it can be extremely dangerous.

There is no question that while I did mention my Online University as being a source of information about the malady of the girth bound syndrome, I failed to point out that there was a whole chapter on it in, From My Hands To Yours the only textbook I have ever written. While these answers are meant to be shorter than the chapter of a book, I will now take the time to give the salient points of that chapter. I recommend the use of a stable rug or stable blanket to reduce sensitivity and then to use what we call an overgirth or thin elastic strap that can go over the stable rug and around the horse in the area of the girth. This should be tightened gradually, over about a 20-minute period of time.

With the overgirth in place, the horse should be allowed to remain in a box stall (loose box) for about another half hour or so with the elastic band fairly tight. After that, I recommend that the handler should place a normal surcingle over the rug being sure that there is elastic in the girth. This surcingle should be equipped with a breastcollar (breastgirth) so that it will not slide back from the girth area. Once again the handler should tighten the girth gradually over 10 or 15 minutes until it approximates the tension of a normal saddle girth. After that, the horse should spend another 20 minutes or so with the surcingle in place. With these procedures complete the horse is ready for the saddle.

One should remember that these procedures are time approximate and the handler should be aware of the horse’s overall behavior and only move forward with these efforts as the horse has settled into a mindset of acceptance. The extreme case could require as much as 50% more time than I have outlined in this scenario. Removing the surcingle and placing the saddle should be done smoothly but in the shortest amount of time possible. The saddle girth should be tightened incrementally over 10 minutes or so. As the days go by, these times can easily be shortened until eventually the horse can be fully saddled in about 20 minutes or so. Once more I stress; read your horse.

Do not at any time attempt to mount your horse until you determine that there is a calm, cool acceptance level. I recommend releasing the horse in a small area (50 foot round pen or so) or a small corral 30–50 feet square. It is advisable to see the horse canter with a cool demeanor before mounting. I recommend schooling your horse to come to the mounting block as is shown in my Online University. In doing so, the handler can read the acceptance of the horse, particularly when making the side pass movements when approaching the mounting block. I believe this to be the safest set of procedures to follow when dealing with the behavioral pattern that I came to envision while reading your initial question.

Please accept my profound apology for an answer that was short of the one given here. With the encouragement of the criticisms that I received I intend to redouble my efforts to be as fair as I possibly can with anyone seeking my advice. I note with interest that the criticisms came from others and not from yourself. While I appreciate your patience with me, I also appreciate those that would stand up for your right to have a more complete answer than the one I gave you. I will continue to do my work in the knowledge that it is important and profound both for horses and those who love them. Please remember that it is my life’s goal to leave the world a better place than I found it for horses and for people, too.

~ Monty

6/24/2015: I saw you last year at the Grange Equestrian Centre and was fascinated by the amazing work you do with so many horses. Shortly after I purchased the Dually Halter for my 5-year-old cob and it helped dramatically when leading him in to the stable, and also your textbook From My Hands to Yours which has also helped dramatically. But in the last month or two I have experienced my 5 year old cob who was first backed May last year putting his head down while riding and yanking the reins out of my hands. I’ve tried researching into it but have found no answers of why he may be doing this. I am emailing you wondering if you have an idea on why he is doing this and if you have any tips on how to stop him doing this I would love to hear them.

Kind Regards,
Natasha W.

Answer: If you are a student of mine and I had time to watch you ride while observing your horse’s behavior toward you, I would have a much better chance of answering this question correctly. With none of these facts in place I will attempt to speculate given that I have seen this behavioral pattern hundreds of times in my career. Let me list each of the concerns that I might well have, given the chance to watch you ride.

Let’s you and I agree that all things being equal the horse finds no fun connected with pulling the reins out of your hands using a bit in his mouth as his only tugging tool. First lets eliminate the fact that he might be reaching for grass or other food objects. You didn’t suggest that possibility so lets agree that this isn’t his purpose. Lets you and I agree that your horse is ridden in a menage (riding arena) with no grass growing from the ground.

What would enter the horse’s mind to attempt to pull you over his neck without some reward for doing so? Let’s suggest that maybe you were riding him with reins that are too tight for substantial periods of time. This will actually numb the bars of the mouth much like a limb of yours that goes to sleep. Lets agree that the horse wants some freedom, pulls hard and gets the desired results. Remember I am not saying you do this.

Let’s agree that his opinion is that your riding with too tight a rein and he does this a few times, gets his reward and forms a habit of doing it repeatedly. If I found myself in that position I would immediately stop my horse firmly and reverse him (back him up) until he went soft on the reins. I would then loosen the reins and walk on. I would conduct this action repeatedly.

Let’s you and I agree that these habits are often encouraged because of a bit that the horse finds unacceptable. Another agreement we might make is that he finds the curb used on the bit unacceptable. We could also agree that each of these speculations may actually exist to one degree or another. Horses simply do not choose to execute the action described by you without receiving what they perceive to be a reward for doing it.

Please remember the words “ritualistic habituation”. As human beings we are creatures of habit. Without even knowing it, we create rituals. Often these rituals are viewed as negatives to our horses. Eventually the horse becomes habituated to certain actions aimed at alleviating the problem he perceives. The intelligent rider will calmly observe and then make adjustments that will serve the needs of the horse while creating behavior acceptable to the rider.

~ Monty

6/17/2015: My new horse brought at 7 months suffering from neglect unfortunately I couldn’t have his in foal mum to. Never been handled. Now I’ve owned him 5 months he’s had everything health wise and castrated 3 months ago. Dually holder works wonders. Leading and handling great. As soon as I take him away from the yard alone his anxiety increase a lot! He lives with one other 5 year old gelding who when I ride foal Sven is happy home alone. Out in the field together Sven is very on edge and wants to get back to stable even though other horse is calm and happy? His whole world is centered around the stable yard were he will be happy with anything plastic bags, road signs, balloons. Cars, lorries and tractors also fine not at all spooky as long as his yard is nearer the better? How do I say it’s ok to walk out with me or go out grazing?

Lusy S.
Somerset, England

Answer: The term separation anxiety generally relates to one horse wanting to be with another. The fact is however, being separated from what is considered to be a safe place can often be just as challenging. A horse in this condition must be separated from a place he finds safe. The key however is to make sure that the new place is just as safe as the new spot.

Footing and fencing are critical issues to creating a safe environment for the horse that is anxious or anxiety ridden when transitioning to a new location. My textbook From My Hands to Yours has three chapters that should help you. One is called Separation Anxiety and then there is Barn Sour and Balking. Each of these will provide you with good information on the problem you have addressed.

~ Monty

6/10/2015: I am 58 years old and recently retired from teaching. I have always wanted to learn how to ride a horse. Nothing fancy, just enough to know what I’m doing when riding on trails. What do I look for when selecting a riding instructor? Or is it already too late to consider learning?
Thank you very much for your time.
Nancy B.

Monty’s Answer: At 80 years of age and still learning, I would be the last person on earth to tell you that 58 is beyond the point of learning. If I look back on what I knew at 58 and what I feel I know at age 80, I would say that fully half of my learning curve has been executed in the last 22 years. This does not mean that the age of 58 comes with no challenges. One must prioritize differently when starting at the age of 58.

A teenager can dream of winning massive competitions and train to compete in events requiring skilled athleticism and sometimes a reckless disregard for their safety. These goals are not recommended by me for people who are beginning a riding career at 58. This, however, does not mean that the thrill of riding should be stolen from someone who wants to begin to ride in their late 50s.

Safety is a huge issue. It should be regarded as living with all capital letters and each one is RED. The second priority should be trainer selection, followed by horse selection and a plan regarding care and proper handling of the horse involved. I recommend an experienced instructor with impeccable credentials as to honesty and integrity. One cannot do enough research into the background into this individual.

There are ways to use my organization to provide counsel and advice in each of these areas. You have started by asking the right questions which is good but only the first step in creating an acceptable environment for a happy outcome. Horses often get the blame for creating dangerous incidences which in fact could be seen from great distances by an accomplished advisor/instructor.

Please stay in touch with us and make sure you subscribe to our Equus Online University. We have a DVD called The Perfect Match: Monty’s Guide to Buying a Horse http://www.montyroberts.com/shop/dvds/dvd-perfect-match/. This question has triggered the intention to include lessons in this area on the Online University within the next year. I look forward to helping you with this project.

6/3/2015: Dear Monty, For the past three years we have had a wonderful Haflinger mare at the farm I work at. She had a wonderful personality and loved being around people. We sold her in December and the woman who had bought her contacted us and said she was no longer working out for her. So we bought her back. As soon as I loaded her on the trailer I could tell something was not right about her. Our sweet, always calm mare was so nervous she was almost panting like a dog! When we look at her all we see is a shell of her. She has dead eyes and hides in the corner of her stall. My only guess is maybe she was being beat on. With health problems ruled out, do you have any suggestions how to help get her out of this slump and bring her spirit back?
Thank you,
Katie

Monty’s Answer: In short, yes. In these kinds of cases, the horse is the only one who really knows the truth. As we find ourselves at this moment, the truth really doesn’t matter. She has her condition and there is no way we can wave a wand and eradicate that condition. What I can do to help though is to suggest the only successful way that I have found to treat horses with this problem.

It is quite coincidental that I had a horse with extremely similar circumstances just two days ago. This was a mare born, raised and trained in Argentina. She was brought to a high level as a Polo pony and while she did her work on the field she was totally separated from any trust or partnership with a human being.

This eight-year-old Polo mare refused to be caught in a field and it required two-three people to catch her in a stable. Everything about the human was unacceptable to her. In the case of this particular mare, the changes came very rapidly. While this is not always the case, it often surprises me how quickly they return to an acceptable level.

Without knowing all of the details in your particular case, I will attempt to advise you as to what might very well be successful on your Haflinger as well. The essence of the recommended procedure is to do my concepts in every way that I recommend them in my writings and my video material. Join-Up® is the first element recommended. It took me about 15 minutes to get Join-Up and Follow-Up when it normally requires about four and a half minutes.

Once I achieved Join-Up, however, it was incredible how quickly she came around. After a good Join-Up and Follow-Up, I moved to plastic bags on a stick. I let her worry about the plastic bags and actually encouraged her to go away. I employed the Dually Halter and a 30-foot long line to stop down her retreat. When she came back to me, I took great effort to reward her and rub her all over.

This procedure added about another 20 minutes to the round pen time. We then went to a paddock about five times the size of the round pen. I repeated the stick and bag routine for about another 20 minutes in that paddock. I could see the improvement building rapidly. At that point I took away the 30-foot line and began to approach her loose in the paddock, waving the plastic bags as I approached.

She was perfectly happy for me to approach her, rub her and walk away. Soon she was following me and the look in her eyes seemed to let me know that she was ‘beating her demons’. A call from her owner today indicates that she is catching her in the field, she is eating better and lying down to sleep which she would never do before.

This particular training procedure was videotaped and I believe it will make about four wonderful lessons on my Equus Online University. I recommend that you watch for them and also that you read as much as possible to better educate yourself so as to implement this training in the most effective way.

One thing I like to explain to owners is that the bag was the ‘bad cop’ and I was the ‘good cop’. I also explain that horses don’t behave without a reason for that behavior, and this recommended procedure will help her well into the future. It involves the following positive consequence each time she is caught.

The procedure is simply to place a handful of grain where she is tied for grooming and saddling. I tell the owner to catch her horse, lead her to that spot and allow her to steal a handful of grain from a feeder on the floor. Give her a few strokes of brushing all over, put her out in the field and after five minutes or so repeat the process.

After about three weeks or so, one should begin to do this ‘stealing the grain’ procedure about once in every five catchings. This will ensure that the horse has something positive to think about when being caught.

5/27/2015: Would starting a six-year-old horse using your method be any different than starting a two-year-old horse? I would love to hear from you.

Monty’s Answer:

The fact is that I have put the saddle and first rider on horses up to twelve years of age. There are differences, and I believe that most of those differences are caused by whatever environmental circumstances have occurred during the growing up stages. My recommendation is that one should disregard the differences and simply respond to the behavioral patterns that are expressed during the starting process. I believe it will be fun for you to watch the outcome, no matter the age.

5/20/15: I have completed Join-Up and decent follow-up with this mare, she comes to me in the field and she will let me touch her all over. She really seems to enjoy my presence and I enjoy hers. She’s a 5 yr old TB with very little training, but she has never been abused either, so she’s been very receptive to all of your techniques. She willingly does (almost) everything I ask her to do, but I’ve been having some trouble with her nipping. She is not hand fed by anyone and I have never hand fed her myself, so I’m fairly certain that is not the cause. She does it whether I have a lead line on her or not, but she only does to when she’s following me. She’s not really biting, she’s just kind of lipping, I’ve never even felt her teeth, but I’m concerned that this will progress and turn into biting. My best guess is that’s she’s trying to get my attention, or perhaps she’s trying to control me. I tried bumping her with my boot, and maybe I’ve been doing it wrong, because she seems to expect it and she’ll move away from me. If she’s trying to get my attention, should I ignore her? I’m willing to try whatever, thank you in advance! Nina Foy, Maryland,USA

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for following my concepts with interest. I have read closely your description of the circumstances regarding your five year old Thoroughbred. It is my opinion that you have put your finger exactly on the problem when you suggest that she seems to be trying to control you.

My suggestion is that, with the use of the Dually Halter, you wait for the negative behavior and then you simply decide to go in a different direction, left or right. One should grip the line and walk into it so as to strongly request she follow you. I believe that this will occur for about five repetitions of the actions of the Dually Halter and then you will watch your mare reach to nuzzle you and think better of it and simply walk with you.

I would repeat this for several days before I would feel confident that you were making permanent change in her behavioral patterns. It would be good to hear from you as time goes by so as to follow the progress of these recommendations.

5/13/2015: I’m a student of one of your instructors in Europe and am about to take my introductory exams. I’m currently working a lot with young horses and hoping to visit Flag is Up in the future to take the advanced course in the future. My question is, do you think there is a benefit to moving quicker in a horse’s training and introducing new things at the same time, assuming that the horse is not being forced/stressed

When I started my first young horse, my initial instinct was to move very slowly, raising the bar incrementally and giving the horse lots of time to become accustomed to each stage. For example, I would introduce the saddle and spend lots of time doing in-hand work with the saddle on, a week later I would introduce the bridle, another week introduce the long lines, etc. This also made sense with my own level of training at the time, ensuring I didn’t make too many mistakes and gained confidence in the techniques.

More recently, I’ve been experimenting with doing a full Join-Up, tack up and long line in one session and I’ve been surprised by how quickly the horses have adapted and dealt with everything. For example, I’ve found many horses to be much quicker to get used to the lines around their legs by just getting on with it and doing it, as apposed to before, when I would incrementally desensitize them to the lines over a week or two. It was as if by giving them too much time to think about things, they were actually taking longer to get used to them. I assume this is because of their natural distractibility when introducing lots of new things at once. I have also occasionally felt I was losing the horse’s attention during training sessions by not providing enough of a challenge.

Is this something you have experienced? I know that in your demonstrations you introduce many things during one session, but would you do the same when starting a young horse at home? Is there an optimum balance between taking too long and rushing, or does it change every time depending on the horse? I’m not concerned at all with how long the starting process takes, but I am interested in helping the horses learn in the most efficient way and maintaining their cooperation throughout.

It’s important to note, that I don’t mean just immediately introducing the tack and long lines – the horses would all be happy and consistent leading in hand with the dually, have done at least one Join-Up before, and have done some basic desensitising/leading in hand through obstacles/outdoors. The

When it is time to take the step of introducing a saddle, bridle and long lines, is it better to do it all in one go?

Monty’s Answer: In my studies of human behavior, one of the very interesting aspects of it was to measure the learning curve of young students in primary school. I discovered that most schools will try to bring an entire class along keeping each student about level with the learning of the rest of the students. What I have found that this does is to encourage the underachievers to move forward as fast as they can and that is good. What is not so good is that the brighter students will be held in a holding pattern where learning is concerned.

Most child psychologists will agree that one of the worst problems for bright students is that they become lazy and disinterested. This is the time when these students will usually look to some negative activity to heighten their interest. It is my opinion that horses are no different. While it is an art form to decide just how fast to move along, do not loose sight of the fact that moving too slowly is just as bad as moving too quickly.

Personally, I am one to move along fairly rapidly and then to use repetition in the following days to more deeply imprint the material in the horse’s brain. I suggest that you work with a lot of horses so that your natural skills come to the surface. Keep them interested!

05/06/2015: Starting my young horse is exciting and daunting at the same time. I want to create, and keep, a really light mouth on her. What tips can you give me to start and stay right on track please? ~ Sheila, Australia

Answer: The horse is affected by everything we do, for better or worse. Every move we make, the velocity and body language connected with it, is registered in his brain. Our putting constant pressure on the bit will dull the highly sensitive area of his mouth. If it was our intent to create a “hard-mouthed puller,” this is how to accomplish it because a “puller” means a horse made insensitive in the mouth by constant pressure.

A puller is simply going into-pressure and consequently is one who refuses to respond to subtle cues from the hands. The tissues have been toughened and conditioned to the point that the horse pushes into them to resist cooperation. To create a light mouth, you must give signals with hands acting appropriately by using only the gentlest amount of pressure required. Once the desired response is achieved, you must be quick to release the pressure, which acts as the reward. Reward, through release of pressure, is probably the most critical factor in sustaining a light mouth.

(Excerpt from From My Hands to Yours: Lessons from a lifetime of training championship horses)

Question: How do I get my barrel racing horse to settle before the competition? It’s getting hard to get him to even enter the arena anymore.

Answer: This is a question that comes to me from almost every group of people I address. Barrel racing is a unique activity. It is virtually the only contest where the horse is encouraged to run out of the arena at top speed. This by itself is a technique designed to encourage undesirable behavior. Consider that the barrel horse is asked to run full out into the arena, blast through a prescribed course, complete the course and then run as fast as possible while usually being whipped.

Once outside the gate, I’ve witnessed barrel-horse riders jerking the horse’s mouth with both hands to get him to stop. Then, consider that the rider will wait around for a while and ride toward the arena to ask the horse to do it again. Horses are not stupid. Why should the horse ever want to do that again? It amazes me how cooperative barrel-racing horses are under the circumstances.

For this answer, I would like the reader to understand that there are several gymkhana events that essentially fall into this category. For the gymkhana trainer and rider, I would like to recommend these same procedures. It is necessary for the gymkhana participant to tailor the course pattern appropriate to the activity in question. I recommend that training sessions for barrel racing horses should be accomplished with four barrels in the arena.

I believe that the horse should be brought into the arena in a calm, cool fashion and that he should be ridden at a walk for a few minutes. Then, begin the schooling process in a constant, ongoing fashion. When the third barrel has been executed, there is another barrel course in front of the horse. You should execute the second course and then return nonstop to the first course. A schooling session might be done at the walk, trot, canter and run.

I recommend that the process then be reversed so that you end your training session at a walk. You should allow the horse’s adrenaline to fully subside. I recommend that you dismount in the center of the arena and either sit on the ground, or walk with the horse for several minutes to completely disengage the horse from the training process. Having accomplished each of these tasks, then you should lead the horse out of the arena.

If it is possible to vary the gates used in the training sessions, this is desirable. The barrel-racing trainer should pause to consider how long it takes to train a horse to run out through the arena gate. I suggest that this can be accomplished in one or two training sessions, and should in no way be a part of the daily training routine.

I maintain that whipping the barrel-racing horse is highly overrated as a means to lower the total time. I have been impressed in recent years to see that many barrel racers are using a short piece of rope fixed to the saddle horn that they flick back and forth in front of them to encourage the horse to run faster. This is seldom a pain-producing maneuver, and is far more effective than a burning whip.

(Excerpt from From My Hands to Yours: Lessons from a lifetime of training championship horses)

4/22/2015: I camp with my horse and when he is tied to the side of the trailer to be tacked up he starts pawing. I don’t want him to hurt himself or my trailer. What is the best way to stop this behavior. He also does it when I tie him inside my indoor arena.

~ Joan Patterson

Answer: A horse that paws is not only destructive to his own anatomy, but often destructive to the property around him. If he is not content being tied up, this is a behavioral issue that should be overcome in order to have a healthier horse, mentally and physically. There are many environments where a horse should be trained to quietly stand still. A common error is to engage and even reward the behavior.

There is a phenomenon in horses that occurs when they move their feet, creating an increase in their need to move more. Horsemen have heard the adage, “He who controls the foot, controls the horse.” When I work with a horse, the first training is with the Dually Halter, asking the horse to walk when I walk and stand still when I stand still. This is not only for good ground manners. It is about the control of movement.

Start with your horse in a Dually Halter and a 17-foot lead line and work on your timing until you both could be mistaken for a pair of dancers, back and forth and standing still. You horse’s nose should follow you at your shoulder and when you stop, he should not take one step in front of your shoulder. If he does, correct that step with several steps back. When you can’t get this wrong anymore, you are both ready for the next phase.

Work your horse as you would normally in the daily routine. Ride or exercise to completion, get off your horse and allow him to relax for a moment. This is how you communicate to him that he has finished and preferably on a good note. If you are far from the barn, get back on and walk him back but I prefer to stay off and give full relaxation. Unsaddle and take your horse to the wash rack.

At Flag Is Up Farms we have several hitching posts and wash racks where horses can be tied, providing shelter under trees. We have placed thick rubber mats there for the horses to stand on. Rubber mats absorb a lot of the sound pawing makes and absorbs the shock of the pawing as well. Many horses lose interest in pawing simply from this rubber matting because they don’t receive a reward for negative behavior.

Give your horse a good shower and use a scraper so he is not overly wet. He should be fairly relaxed from his work and ready to rest. If your horse has an issue with being tied up (or on a high line), this is where you need to learn patience. Let him experience other horses coming and going and only untie him when he’s relaxed and not pawing.

We are assuming he is not a ‘pull back,’ since you did not mention it. Once he has settled and remained quiet for at least an hour, reward him with a good rub and return him to his stable. He should be fine to be tied from one to four hours at a time. Leadership is formed by how well you can exhibit to your horse that he will be fine to be tied. Watch how quickly he will realize it is good to relax after his work.

You can incrementally increase the time he is tied. Often horses even come to use this as “nap time.” Now you can choose different places to tie him and take that rubber mat with you. The trailer would be one spot and in your indoor arena another. I have experienced horses that once seemed stressed to the max to be tied, learn to become content with their post-training time. I hope you will make this a routine part of your training.

4/15/2015: Can I leave the Dually Halter on to haul my horse in the trailer?
Thank you,
Belinda

Monty’s Answer: The Dually Halter is a great tool for the training to load in the trailer. The Dually Halter and a 30 foot line are the best pieces of equipment I know to simply and effectively train a horse to load and lead. If you have a horse who is difficult to load, please review my procedures for training a horse to load on the trailer. My first suggestion is to train on a day when you don’t have to travel.

Once your horse has become comfortable loading and unloading, you should be able to begin loading with a regular halter. If you are at a point where you still get some resistance, put a Dually Halter over the regular halter, load your horse, and then remove the Dually once your horse is loaded and the back end is closed. Never tie your horse in a trailer while the back gate or ramp is open or before putting up the butt bar.

Your question gives me an opportunity to share my thoughts on safely trailering a horse. A horse should be transported with protective shipping boots that fit properly without reducing the circulation of the lower leg. I recommend a poll protector attached to the crown of the halter to reduce the potential for injury. I also like to tie the horse in the trailer so that his head cannot reach the floor between his front legs. This lessens the potential for a neck injury when the trailer brakes.

Give the horse some hay to munch on during travel time. I believe in stopping at approximately four-hour intervals. Also stop where the horse can be unloaded on safe footing, offered some water, and a little exercise, ideally. Wherever possible, provide the horse with water brought from home. The use of flavored electrolytes while still at home will accustom your horse to a particular taste, allowing you to make acceptable water from another area by adding the same taste.

I am a firm believer in partial partitions in the trailer. There should be a minimum of 30 inches (approx. 76 cm) free space between the bottom of the partition and the floor of the trailer. The injuries that occur to horses because of the absence of this space far out-number any injuries that occur because of this space. I further support the need for padded, smooth surfaces throughout the interior of your truck or trailer, free of any protrusions.

The method by which the horse transitions from the ground to the floor of the vehicle is critically important to the safety of the horse during loading and unloading. If a trailer is used and a typical ramp gate attached, then the ramp angle should be as shallow as possible, and there should be great attention paid to the traction provided by the surface of the ramp.

If it is a step-up trailer, you should attempt to provide the lowest possible distance from the ground to the floor of the

trailer. If the trailer is inappropriately high, then seek out a sloping area where the trailer can be parked to reduce the distance the horse is required to negotiate entering and exiting the trailer.

And remember, never tie your horse in a trailer while the back gate or ramp is open or before putting up the butt bar.

4/7/2015: We have a horse that doesn’t like to be tied up very long. When she is tied to a hitching post or horse trailer she try’s to sit back to get lose. She has been known to break the rope & get lose. How do you stop this?
Joye Jones

Monty’s Answer: Virtually everyone who has owned a horse has, at some time, experienced an episode where the horse pulls back while tied. Early in the horse’s training, if he pulls back and everything is strong enough to withstand the pressure without breaking, your horse will generally imprint in his brain that pulling back is not good.

Should your horse pull back and cause something to break free in the process, you are likely to have a phobia set in where the horse feels compelled to pull and break any-thing he is tied with. Two or three of these episodes will virtually assure you of a pull-back horse. The into-pressure phenomenon takes over in this case, and you can watch your horse glaze over, eyes tending to roll high in his head, and then with utter determination he will pull with all his might.

The phobic pull-back horse can break what a normal horse could not come close to breaking. He will crouch his body low and strain with all four legs in the ground to pull with every ounce of his power. If something breaks at this point, it is very likely that he will shoot over backward and often injure himself seriously. When this occurs, it simply exacerbates the problem as it further convinces the horse that he has to break his tie.

Pulling back can obviously occur any time the horse is tied; however, certain activities are more likely than others to evoke it. When the horse is standing tied with comfortable, proper-fitting equipment in a quiet location, the potential for pulling back would be at the lower end of the spectrum. The condition that is most likely to promote it is when the handler opens the rear portion of a trailer before untying the horse. This is a red-letter mistake. The confinement, footing and sound all combine to create an extremely dangerous environment for your horse. In general, horses that fly out of the trailer can easily produce injuries to people or animals outside as well as to themselves. In addition to untying the horse before opening the trailer, never tie a horse without securely closing the door behind him first.

Bridling or saddling the horse while tied increases the potential for pulling back. I am often presented with horses at my demonstrations that are frightened about being bridled or saddled. Many times this stems from an incident of pulling back while these procedures were attempted, so I recommend that when bridling and saddling your horse, you control him with your hands rather than tying him.
Horses that pull back are often brought to me at Flag Is Up Farms. I think it is most productive to explain to you exactly what I recommend and allow you to approximate my procedures as close as your facility will allow. I suggest that the person who executes the procedures be a professional trainer, or an extremely competent horse handler.

The Procedure
I have a solid, smooth wall, eight feet high (approx. 3.5 meters) and 24 feet (approx. 8 meters) in length. There is a 14-inch (approx. 31 cm) power pole set in concrete just be-hind and in the center of the wall. It has a tie ring on a long bolt that goes through the wall and the power pole. When you view the wall from the horse’s side, it is smooth and featureless, except for the ring dead in the center and about 7 feet (approx. 2 meters) off the ground. My wall is made of wood jacketed with smooth steel, and is free of any protrusions.

When I prepare to school a pull-back, I place a tie in the ring that is about 3 feet long (approx. 1 meter). I then use two 14-foot (approx. 4 meters) panels that are about 5 feet (approx. 1.5 meters) tall. They have 6 horizontal bars and are constructed of very strong material. I fix a panel to each end of my solid wall. I put a steel fencepost in the ground just outside each panel at the point where it makes an intersection with my wall. I then move the two outer ends of the panels toward each other until they are 16 feet (approx. 5 meters) apart. At that point, I put a 16-foot panel in position so that it joins the two panels together. I then set two more steel posts to secure the intersections of those panels. This creates a “D”-shaped enclosure, with my large wall being the flat portion of the “D,” and three portable panels creating the semicircle portion.

The wall and panel configuration can vary, as long as it is safe. This arrangement lets me uncouple the panels at a junction and lead my horse into the D-shaped enclosure wearing a high-quality, unbreakable halter. With caution, I fix the tie to the halter and exit quickly along the wall, climbing over one of the panels. It is critical that whoever attaches the tie can physically move quickly and smoothly out of harm’s way. A horse that pulls back, and then jumps forward, can cause serious injury.

The tie I use is very important in this procedure. I suggest a commercially produced stretch tie. A 3-foot (approx. 1 meter) length will stretch to about 10 to 12 feet (approx. 3 to 4 meters) before it gives your horse anything solid to pull on. At that point, your horse’s hindquarters are up against the panel, restricting him from pulling back any further. Usually, the horse will freeze in the pulling position, and the elasticized tie simply keeps pulling until he yields. A few days of this will usually produce a horse that no longer pulls. I suggest that you continue to tie the horse up exclusively with an elasticized tie for a year or so. It is important to tether only to substantial objects more than 5 feet (approx. 1.5 meters) above the ground. I have experienced a high level of success using this procedure, and I strongly recommend it for anyone who has a horse with this problem.

~ Monty (from his textbook From My Hands to Yours)

3/31/2015: Each morning I turn my horse out in a small field. He spends most of his day in the field and then I go out to catch him to bring him in. I can’t catch him. Round and round we go. And I guess he thinks I need exercise because I have to go a mile and a half before I can catch him. What can I do?

Monty’s Answer: The first thing you do is smile. This means don’t get angry with him. That will only run your adrenaline up and you probably already know that horses can read intent. This being true, the horse’s adrenaline causes him to think that you might hurt him. Once you get him caught, tell him how nice he is with a friendly rub between the eyes.

Lead him out of the field and take him to the area where you normally saddle him. Tie him with a lead long enough to reach the floor and then all of a sudden realize that you have left a rubber feeder there on the floor with about a cup of sweet feed in it. You can tell him “Oh, darn, I left the feed there.” It’s important that the horse does NOT associate your body with the food, but instead he should associate the behavior with the food.

Get some brushes and brush him a little while he eats. Don’t tell me you don’t have time to give him a brushing. Remember that my answer is going save you all that time chasing him. A quick brushing over will take about the amount of time it took to devour one small portion of grain.

Put him in his stall and repeat the process the following day. One can speed up the learning process by taking the rubber tub to the gate of the field, bouncing it around a bit until he sees it then returning it to the tying post. Go back, enter the field and see what he says about catching him.

I have to tell you that we conducted this very experience in the past week. We have a horse named Colonel, and his rider is called Victor. Colonel made Victor walk to the end of the small field every single day.

Sometimes it looked like he was going to catch him but then he would just slip away and negotiate a few more yards and eventually get all the way to the end. At the end of the field Victor could use good balancing techniques to hold him against the fence and then you could see him just relax by the fence and allow himself to be caught.

I told Victor that I would like to do this experiment with him before I decided to advise people about it. I had not used this method for probably 20 years because once I have done Join-Up with the horse I find I don’t have this challenge. Occasionally you find a horse that has done Join-Up in the round pen who needs this procedure but not that often.

So it was a Saturday when we did the first procedure on Colonel. We actually brought him in and went through the procedure of putting him away and then we put him back in the field. I think we went through the procedure 3 times that day. Victor does not work on Sundays but I went to the stable, got the rubber feeder, showed it to him at the gate, replaced the rubber feeder back where he is tied to be groomed and saddled, went back to the field and he was standing right at the gate.

Remember that I am not terribly familiar to him. I went inside and he allowed me within 2-3 steps to stroke his neck and take hold of the halter. When I went to connect the lead however he jerked away from me firmly and took me to the end of the field. I smiled, walked along a few strides behind him and when we got to the end of the field, he allowed me to stroke his neck, and connect the lead.

I walked him back through the gate and to his tying post where he is groomed and saddled. He ate his handful of grain and struck the rubber feeder with his front foot. I took him to this stable, gave him a few minutes, put him back out in the field and he actually ran around a bit while I replaced a handful of grain in his rubber tub.

I showed it to him at the gate, returned it to the post and went back, showed it to him at the bars of the gate and he came walking directly toward the gate. I went away and replaced the tub at the post. Went back to the gate, walked in and stroking his neck, holding his halter, he allowed me to connect his lead. I took him to his post and he finished another handful of grain.

I repeated the process 3-4 times more. Each time he immediately came to the gate and was easy to catch. When Victor came to work on Monday morning he couldn’t believe the difference. Victor no longer has to walk to the end of the field and now I have a problem. Colonel is easy to catch and Victor will probably start beginning to gain weight because he is not walking so far each day. I am making a joke of course because Victor is very slim 130 pounds and in good condition.

As time goes on, should you be adverse to giving him any grain at all, he could have a handful of his favorite food like chopped alfalfa with molasses, or some other food you feel is healthier than sweet feed. This is the epitome of Ritualistic Habituation, which is a process of incrementally and repetitively creating a sense of familiarity with the procedures.

Remember no food should come from your hand and remember you didn’t even “know” the food was there…the horse just found it on his own.

3/25/2015: Hi – I have purchased a Dually Halter today. Can I use this for lateral flexing? I assume so, as it can be used to ride in. I am excited to get the halter and to learn more from the DVD that will be included. Thanks for the answers to my question in advance.
Marsha Conner, Mankato, MN

Monty’s Answer: Yes, although the Dually Halter is not something I have used for lateral flexing, now that you ask me this question I believe that it would be rather effective. The Dually does provide us with a perfectly acceptable bitless bridle, and you will see it used often on my farm. It’s an effective tool for riding with the reins attached to the training rings, creating a type of side pull. While there are many more uses too numerous to list here, the Dually will help you in nearly all areas of forming a partnership with your horse.

03/18/2015: My horse backs up without being asked. Whenever he doesn’t want to do something, like stand still, he begins to back up at a rapid pace. How can I stop him from doing this? Thank you so much for all you do.

Monty’s Answer: During the course of answering this question, please promise me that you won’t take it personally when I tell you that you have trained your horse to do this. Now, in all fairness to you, I am not saying that you consciously trained him to do this. When I was a child, working with my father’s riding school we called this ‘running backwards’. Its actually the same as balking.

Balking carries the name ‘napping’ in Europe. Many race riders will call it jibbing. Running backwards is simply an extension of the act of balking. It usually grows out of the act of balking. It is closely related to rearing. Balking usually causes the rider to get tough and ask the horse to go forward. If the horse simply refuses, he will often pop up in the air causing the rider to go defensive.

Horses will rejoice with the fact that the rider went defensive and generally spin around and go in the direction of his home stable. Instead of rearing, some horses will back up uncontrollably. Fearing injury, the rider will once more go defensive allowing the horse to travel in whatever direction they chose instead of the direction that the rider would prefer. Either can be dangerous.

If you have not read the chapters in From My Hands to Yours textbook on balking, rearing, barn sour and separation anxiety, you should do this. These bits of information will include the Pacifier and the Giddy-Up Rope as well as rubber on your spurs. The lesson on the Online University is titled “Walter Won’t Go” and is extremely helpful as it is filmed in real time and very effective.

Please don’t feel that you are the “Lone Ranger.” Every single one of us who has ever ridden extensively has known the feeling of this syndrome. In my early days it was always dealt with extreme violence and significant pain to the horse involved. Believe me, this effort was seldom fully successful and even if it worked it produced a horse with significant resentment to man.

3/11/2015: I recently bought a three-year-old gelding who is semi-wild. I did Join-Up quite quickly and was able to catch and halter him easily which I did very other day for a couple of weeks, taking him for walks etc. I then sent him off to start his training with an experienced horse handler who is quite a natural horseman. Unfortunately my horse was put in the round pen with a horse that was difficult to catch for about a week before I realized. I was not happy and asked that he be moved but I think some bad habits had rubbed off.

He had begun to be long reined but I lost my confidence after this and brought him back home to carry on as I had been. He was more hesitant in being caught but I didn’t have a big problem and so I started working with him on the ground for 30 minutes for a couple of days – always allowing him to digest what we had done; flicking a rope round him moving him round me on a long line etc and all was going really well. But then he next day I when I approached him and started to put the halter on, he moved away, it didn’t help that he was in with a 8 month filly that I had bought at the same time as she would get in the way and move off taking him with her.

I left it not wanting to establish the wrong thing when I could see it wasn’t getting anywhere. So I spent some time re-watching Join-Up and thought I’d reestablish this and catch him that way. Unfortunately I couldn’t move the filly out and I had to use a 20m by 40m paddock. I tried for an hour and within the first 20 minutes had him turning and licking his lips coming up a bit but as soon as I began to approach to stroke his head he’d be off again. Similarly the filly didn’t help this process. I thought if I persisted he’d eventually settle enough for me to approach and have him follow me, but I had to give up. Now I am feeling desperate that I have instilled more bad habits and to the filly too. Please can you help?

Yours Sincerely,
Lisa Guy

Monty’s Answer: Dear Lisa, it is clear that you need to work with this horse without the filly. I am not fully aware of your property’s circumstances but catching the filly is important, too. It is my opinion that you need to catch and remove the filly and then concern yourself with catching the intended horse. Isolation is an important factor in the early stages of catching.

Once your subject horse has been caught, it is important to cause a Positive Instant Consequence (PIC) to be established. In this case, the positive consequence might be that the subject horse is taken to an area where the filly is. If you then release your horse in a small area near the filly, that is a good PIC.

It would be a good idea to have a cup of sweet feed in the bin in the area used for the subject horse. A few trips like this and I believe your subject would come to you in the field like a magnet. One might feel that this would take a lot of time but when you compare it to the time that catching requires it is minimal to say the least.

Once you habituate the coming to you in the larger field and then getting a very positive outcome, a significant change is inevitable. One could move from this format to one where the filly is in the field, you catch the subject horse and take him to a small enclosure where there is a cup of sweet feed waiting for him. Repeat this action several times.

You can easily solve the problem by devoting a bit of time to the early aspects of this format. This is an example of the psychological components of what I call Positive Instant Consequences, Negative Instant Consequences (PICNIC). It will assist you with virtually every challenge you face in this horse’s future. It works like magic!

3/4/2015: I have been a horse owner for four years, but have loved horses most of my 55 years. It was nearly a month after I bought Tye before I brought him home. During that time, my cousin recommended I watch a video about your methods, which led to me to your website and the university. It also led me to finding a barefoot farrier, who led me to the book, “Soul of a Horse”.

To say the least, I am inexperienced, and although my horse, nine years old at the time I purchased him (he picked me after I prayed about it, but that is a whole other story) was nine years old, he’d been “broke to ride” but hadn’t been ridden much. His owner said he had never bucked, and to this day, he has not. We have been learning together for the last four years and we make a good team.

At my age I needed a good gentle horse that I didn’t have problems “catching”, and I got that very horse with Tye. Shortly after I brought him home I did join up with him and after that, I can walk up to him in a ten acre field and put a halter on him. I even did walked up to him after a dog chased him ¾ of a mile from home. One thing I had problems with him during my first year, was getting him to take a bit of any kind.

I tried honey, you name it, he didn’t like bits and still doesn’t. I did some research and came up with bitless bridles, and after doing a good deal of research, I purchased one. As with anything new, Tye had to get used to the bridle. I love it, he seems to likes it, (as much as a horse is going to like a bridle) and I’m not worried about hurting his mouth or his teeth; I cringe at the thought of something metal clanking against my teeth.

I’ve heard of horses taking the bit in their teeth and running away with the rider. With a bitless bridle, he can’t take the bit in his teeth, I feel I have more control and the experts on bitless bridles say the same, plus I feel it is more humane as its more like placing your hand on the side of his head and pushing his head in the direction you want him to go. What is your opinion of bitless bridles and why aren’t they used more often?

Donna Covey
Princeton, MO.

Monty’s Answer: The subject of bitless bridles comes into my conversations quite often. Because of how my career has progressed, I believe that people often think of me as a person who doesn’t place much importance on the bitless bridle. The fact is that my career was heavily laced with the bitless bridle during the 1960s.

Fiddle d’Or was and is the only horse to ever win the world championship with the American Reined Cow Horse Association two years in succession. I am a firm believer in the use of the rawhide hackamore. Other instruments that have come to be known as the hackamore definitely have importance.

One should be extremely aware of the fact that any head gear that goes on a horse is only as good as the hands that hold it. I believe that bits in the mouth have an important part to play in the life of any well trained horse. It is my further belief that any horseman that has entered the world of high level horsemanship has a further obligation.

Each of us who want the best for our horses need to learn the use of headgear of any kind. Bits or bit-less, we should teach our hand to be adept regardless of the instrument involved. Further, we should be able to allow our horses to learn the acceptance of any reasonable headgear that we choose to utilize.

The Equus Online University has lessons on the horse that refuses to receive the bit. Believe me, if the horse is properly prepared they will learn to love the honey and I promise you I could get your horse to accept any reasonable bit in a short period of time. Follow the lessons on head shy for the ears and the top of the head.

There is nothing wrong with a horse being guided by a bit in the mouth. The only thing that can be harsh are the hands that hold it. One should remember that the well trained horse will respond to any reasonable request if given positive consequences for positive behavior. It is an absolute guarantee that this will happen.

2/25/2015: From Monty: This week I will share a great question that came up at one of our Night of Inspiration events. A caring owner described her hesitation to do all the steps to achieve a full Join-Up. She asked what I thought of doing the parts of Join-Up that did not involve the “send away.” She shared that she was only doing some elements of the conversation involved in a Join-Up. She asked me if this was acceptable. She said she wanted him to be ready for Join-Up.

Monty’s Answer: To this I had to answer “You’re asking the wrong person.” If one has studied the fundamental aspects of Join-Up, then one would say Join-Up is appropriate at the earliest possible time. Join-Up is the foundation for trust and bonding. It is not the frosting on the cake. If one is building a house, the first thing you do is put in a foundation. One does not walk around hugging the stacks of boards that are going to make the house later. One does not wait for love of the roofing materials that seem so cold and impersonal. Build the foundation.

The bonding and the personal attachment with your horse occurs far more properly and profoundly subsequent to a complete Join-Up than it ever does prior to Join-Up. With a lifetime of experience in this area, I have formed an opinion that Join-Up precedes all other efforts. Thousands of horses have assisted me in forming this conclusion. There is nothing wrong with building trust by being benevolent, however it is not the same as Join-Up. If one has already created a friendship, Join-Up can certainly still work. I am only suggesting to you that Join-Up is the foundation and the quicker you can get at it, the more effective your work will be.

The most effective Join-Up I believe I ever did lives on today in a horse that, without any question, recognizes me every time I’m in his area, desires to come to me and is clearly pleased with my presence. Not one reader of this answer has ever accomplished one like this one. Shy Boy was a mustang as wild as a deer. The first time I met him we were on 40,000 acres. There were helicopters, four wheel drives and steady cams on 4 tracks. I was really concerned about the fearful objects that clearly frightened him.

It would be impossible to quantify the mileage conducted in the Join-Up but it all started at 5 o’clock one morning and at 5 o’clock the following morning he would stay with me, following me without hesitation. There were challenges to come be-fore saddle and rider but he consistently used me as a safe relationship to nurture. Within 48 hours our bonding was velcro.

If Shy Boy could speak the English language, I am sure he would tell beginning students to “get on with it.” Learn the fundamental aspects of the movements of Join-Up, execute them and teach yourself to live by the principles of Join-Up for the balance of the horse’s life. The horse will respect you and genuinely work to get things right in order to please you for the balance of the relationship.

Solid estimates of the number of horses that I have worked with in my career suggest that it nears 70,000. As I answer this, Shy Boy is 21 years of age which is exceptionally old for a mustang. Remember that they are loaded with internal parasites when they are captured. This injures the blood vessels which rarely re-main intact after age 15 or 16. Not only is he 21 but he is happy and couldn’t be a more cooperative member of the equine staff of this farm.

Shy Boy is ridden 3 to 4 times per week and continues to help younger horses learn their lessons. He simply doesn’t do anything wrong and you wouldn’t find a horse more eager when the time comes for him to go on his ride. If only Shy Boy could speak and write English, it is my opinion that he would answer this question exactly as I have done. Build that foundation. Wherever possible, cause it to be the first thing you do with your horse. It will produce results. I guarantee it.

2/17/2015: Hi Monty, first, I’d like to thank you for your tremendous work and dedication to making the world a better place for both horse and human. I first saw your work at a live demonstration many years ago in England. Ever since, I gave been in awe of your work and continue to follow and learn your methods. I’d like to ask your advice on something on which I have been unable to find an answer in any of your online materials. I have a 2 year old appaloosa colt, who I have owned since he was 7 months old. He has worn a Dually halter since I first owned him, and has always been responsive to his training, and respectful on the ground. Recently, when we work in hand, he is chewing the lead rope. The act of chewing the rope appears to soothe him. But it makes it very difficult to effectively use the Dually, when he’s holding the rope that would apply the pressure in his teeth! I’m in somewhat of a dilemma about what to do about this. Is this behavior acceptable – perhaps a sign of teething? Or should it be discouraged? My trainer has always told me that he should not be allowed to do this, as it will lead to biting. Quite honestly, the act of trying to remove the lead rope from his mouth leads to more of a fight and attempted biting! The vet has checked his teeth, and all are OK, although he has not lost any baby teeth yet…I’m not sure if this is a passing phase, or something which should be nipped in the bud?

Any advice you can give would be much appreciated.
Many thanks
Paula, CT, USA

Monty’s Answer: There is a product called ‘No Chew’. It is found in most of the stores that sell animal products. A quick spray of the area on the lead rope within about 2 to 3 feet of his head will put a stop to this very quickly. The horse handlers who work for us also use chili powder mixed with olive oil. They apply it with a cloth and it does the trick. Let us know how this works for you.

2/11/2015: I have been a horse owner for four years, but have loved horses most of my 55 years. It was nearly a month after I bought Tye before I brought him home. During that time, my cousin recommended I watch a video about your methods, which led to me to your website and the university. It also led me to finding a barefoot farrier, who led me to the book, “Soul of a Horse”.

To say the least, I am inexperienced, and although my horse, nine years old at the time I purchased him (he picked me after I prayed about it, but that is a whole other story) was nine years old, he’d been “broke to ride” but hadn’t been ridden much. His owner said he had never bucked, and to this day, he has not. We have been learning together for the last four years and we make a good team. At my age I needed a good gentle horse that I didn’t have problems “catching”, and I got that very horse with Tye. Shortly after I brought him home I did Join-Up with him and after that, I can walk up to him in a ten acre field and put a halter on him. I even did walked up to him after a dog chased him ¾ of a mile from home.

One thing I had problems with him during my first year, was getting him to take a bit of any kind. I tried honey, you name it, he didn’t like bits and still doesn’t. I did some research and came up with bitless bridles, and after doing a good deal of research, I purchased one. As with anything new, Tye had to get used to the bridle. I love it, he seems to likes it, (as much as a horse is going to like a bridle) and I’m not worried about hurting his mouth or his teeth; I cringe at the thought of something metal clanking against my teeth.

I’ve heard of horses taking the bit in their teeth and running away with the rider. With a bitless bridle, he can’t take the bit in his teeth, I feel I have more control and the experts on bitless bridles say the same, plus I feel it is more humane as its more like placing your hand on the side of his head and pushing his head in the direction you want him to go. What is your opinion of bitless bridles and why aren’t they used more often?

Donna Covey

Monty’s Answer: The subject of bitless bridles comes into my conversations quite often. Because of how my career has progressed, I believe that people often think of me as a person who doesn’t place much importance on the bitless bridle. The fact is that my career was heavily laced with the bitless bridle during the 1960s.

Fiddle d’Or was and is the only horse to ever win the world championship with the American Reined Cow Horse Association two years in succession. I am a firm believer in the use of the rawhide hackamore. Other instruments that have come to be known as the hackamore definitely have importance.

One should be extremely aware of the fact that any head gear that goes on a horse is only as good as the hands that hold it. I believe that bits in the mouth have an important part to play in the life of any well trained horse. It is my further belief that any horseman that has entered the world of high level horsemanship has a further obligation.

Each of us who want the best for our horses need to learn the use of headgear of any kind. Bits or bit-less, we should teach our hand to be adept regardless of the instrument involved. Further, we should be able to allow our horses to learn the acceptance of any reasonable headgear that we choose to utilize.

The Equus Online University has lessons on the horse that refuses to receive the bit. Believe me, if the horse is properly prepared they will learn to love the honey and I promise you I could get your horse to accept any reasonable bit in a short period of time. Follow the lessons on head shy for the ears and the top of the head.

There is nothing wrong with a horse being guided by a bit in the mouth. The only thing that can be harsh are the hands that hold it. One should remember that the well trained horse will respond to any reasonable request if given positive consequences for positive behavior. It is an absolute guarantee that this will happen.

2/4/2015: Mr. Roberts,I have a 17 year old stallion that hits his hoof on the rail of his stall when he thinks it is time to eat.I feed a supplement he obviously really likes and will ignore hay even if he is hungry. He learned this habit from a mule about five years ago. He bangs during the night and every morning about 4:00 am. Needless to say my neighbors have been awake at all hours of the night along with myself. I have tied him with his head up to prevent him from banging and teach patience but it is not effective when he is in his stall. He’s pretty smart actually looking for an area he can bang on when he is in the pasture. I really don’t want to use hobbles and will use it as a last re-sort. Any suggestions on what I can do to stop this really bad habit?
Thanks,
Paula
Phoenix, Arizona

Monty’s Answer: Since your horse is likely territorial about his stall along with his behavior of banging on his stall, I suggest you change your routine before you feed him. Remove your horse, feed the stall and then return him to feed uninterrupted. If he paws impatiently outside the stall, rubber mats assist with the noise and concussion on his legs. Rubber mats, lining the stall, may help as well. Let us know if this helps.

1/28/2015: Does Monty have a formula about how to achieve a light responsive mouth? Does he start riding in a halter, if so how long before he starts introducing a bit and would he still ride with the halter as well as a back up? Which bit does he start with? Which bits does he progress with and how much would he expect of a youngster at each stage of training the stop and turns and what to do if they start to lean on the bit? How much does ground work flexion and long-reining help with lightness and are there negative effects of starting off straight away in a strong bit, such as a Pelham, which would achieve quicker results?
Thanks,
Alice G., UK

Monty’s Answer: The process of causing a horse to accept the bit and bridle is known, in most of the horse world, as “mouthing” the horse. I have heard the procedure called “bit-ting” the horse, “bitting up” the horse and “schooling to the bit and bridle.” Whatever term you use for this procedure, it is causing the horse to accept communication from the hands of the rider through the reins, and ultimately the bit.

I call mouthing one of the most important procedures where training the young horse is concerned. It is critical to cause the horse to respond to cues from the reins and bit with the most subtle cues one can accomplish. The tissues over the bars of the horse’s mouth in the area of the corners are precious to any horseman. They should be treated with utmost respect as there is no second chance to create sensitivity once this area has been damaged during training.

We all want a sensitive mouth, but we are responsible for creating that sensitivity or destroying it. The bit is our partner in that effort. Regarding your question about ‘strong bits’ remember my constant admonition that there are no harsh bits. The only things that can be harsh about a bit are the hands that hold it. The well-trained horse with a properly fitted bit can have the reins tied on with fishing line and one should not have to worry about it breaking.

To start the young horse, however, I use the Dually Halter and teach the horse to respond to light rein pressure off the training rings on the Dually. I am also a proponent of mouthing the horse before saddling or riding. The definition of mouthing is to accustom the horse to bit and bridle (usually a snaffle). It is to cause the horse to be comfortable with wearing this device and responsive to being guided by it. It might seem strange to the reader who has seen my demonstrations to grasp this concept. I do not see the horses used in my demonstrations until the time of the event.

With a few exceptions, I don’t even know who owns them or where they come from. I want as much separation between myself and the horse as I can possibly have. This means that I would consider it inappropriate to even give instructions to the owner regarding mouthing.

To be given the chance to mouth a young horse before the start of saddling, bridling and riding is a high priority for me (outside of the parameters of a demonstration). For the past 40 years or so, I have taken every opportunity to acquaint the horse to the bit, bridle and reins before saddling and riding.

I am a strong advocate for using “black iron bits.” These were the normal bits for thousands of years before the advent of stainless steel. I find that horses prefer black iron and perform better with it than stainless steel. I further recommend that the black iron bit has copper inlaid in the mouthpiece. The combination of black iron and copper seems to me to be preferred by virtually every horse I work with.

I recommend that you accustom the horse to the surcingle, which can be accomplished in the round pen or even in a box stall. Once the horse can cope with the surcingle comfortably, I begin the process of mouthing. You should always take care not to have protrusions from the walls or fences of the enclosure you use for mouthing.

I will place a black iron snaffle with a brow band headstall appropriately on the horse’s head. You don’t need to have riding reins on the bit as a pair of side reins are used instead. The bit should sit in the horse’s mouth so that it effects a slight smile on the horse. Once the bit is touching the corners of the horse’s mouth, the handler should adjust it upward until it is about one-sixteenth of an inch higher than the corners would be in a natural state.

I suggest that the side reins be adjusted quite loosely at first. I recommend that the handler loose lunge the young horse in the round pen in sessions approximating 15 to 20 minutes in length. You can execute this event using all three natural gaits of the horse. It should be noted that exhaustion is not a part of training and you should be careful to monitor the horse’s comfort throughout the procedure.

After the horse has accepted the surcingle and the snaffle bit with loose side reins, the handler should then begin a process of shortening the side reins until the horse is nodding off the bit. Take care not to tighten before the horse is fully comfortable as he could object to the tension and potentially suffer injury by rearing or acting out in another negative fashion.

The side reins should be equipped with elastic to allow the horse a flexible tension and not a solid one. The handler might continue to loose lunge, creating impulsion by simply tossing a light driving line behind the horse to move him forward. Be sure the environment is safe. One should study the footing and the walls closely so as not to create an environment that could be dangerous for your animal.

After two to three sessions, you can often introduce driving lines using the side rings on the surcingle at approximately the same position where a rider’s knee might be. The handler should always be sensitive to how much work the young horse is doing and how he is accepting that work.

I recommend that mouthing should take place for 10 to 12 sessions before saddling and riding. The knowing handler will vary the length of time according to the needs of the horse. The nervous, fractious animal should be mouthed for a greater number of sessions than the quiet, cooperative one.

It is extremely important to use effective safety measures, only advancing when your equine student is fully prepared for it. I have provided an illustration here so that you can see each feature of the mouthing apparatus.

Many horsemen ask me how I suggest handling the horse that tosses his head while being rid-den and I tell them that this mouthing procedure can be employed. It is most likely that a bad set of hands has caused this problem. I have found it effective to allow the horse to toss his head, simply meeting the side reins and stretching the elastics.

Normally, horses will stop the head tossing after four or five sessions as recommended in this section. I have used this method of mouthing a horse for well over 50 years now and have found it to be most effective. When I finally saddle and ride the animal schooled in this fashion, it is amazing how cooperative he is with his turns, stops and reining back.

~ Monty

Monty’s Points:

I recommend the mouthing process whenever it is possible:

» Start mouthing in a round pen.

» Use a black iron bit with copper inlay.

» Use a long line with a surcingle and side reins.

» Use side reins with elastic.

» Do 10 to 12 sessions of mouthing before riding.

» Limit mouthing sessions to 20 minutes or less.

» Mouthing procedures can be used for horses that toss their heads.

» Safety is critical. Advance only when your equine student is ready.

1/21/2015: Hi Monty, firstly thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge of the horse, I have a just turned 2 yr old Quarter Horse cross Scottish Highland filly. I have had her since she was 10 months old, very lively and inquisitive young girl, exceptional manners on the ground, takes all new things in her stride, has been exposed to sheep, cattle, dogs, loud machinery, the beach, and is great around other horses. I have done a lot of ground work with her including Join-Up, and she can do all the basics, i.e. disengages hind and forequarters, backs up beautifully, moves of pressure, and accepts desensitization, walks, trots, and canters in hand with respect, unfortunately I can’t keep up with her. She is respectful around food and accepts it’s mine until I allow her to take it. She has just been exposed to the saddle and cinch with no issues. So you’re probably thinking what issues do we have? It’s quite a basic problem that when I go to the paddock I call to her and she usually calls back, she always wants to great me with her nose, she will push it in my face and take a big sniff, is that okay because that usually follows with a sneaky nip, it’s not aggressive but all the same whenever I’m in the paddock she follows me she at some point tries to nip me, I do tell her off and she will turn her head away and start chewing, is this acceptable behavior or should I treat it as a sign of dominance? Thank you Monty!
Gillian Stacey

Monty’s Answer: It is frightening for me to attempt to give you a responsible answer to the question regarding the behavior of your horse. When you say things like “She is respectful around food and accepts it’s mine until I allow her to take it,” this is a picture that is crystal clear. Those words tell me that you are ultimately feeding your filly from your hand. If you are following my techniques, you know that is considered by me to be the third worse piece of horsemanship on earth.

When you go on to say…“she always wants to greet me with her nose, she will push it in my face and take a big sniff, is that okay because that usually follows with a sneaky nip.” These are the words of an owner guilty of anthropomorphism. By these words, you are treating her similarly to how you would treat a child. You are clearly attaching human attributes to those of your two-year-old filly. This, in my concepts or the concepts of any other good horsemen, is patently unacceptable.

When you send through a quote “whenever I’m in the paddock she follows me; she at some point tries to nip,” you further support my case for human misunderstanding of the proper interactions of an owner with their horse. These are unacceptable behaviors of the tenth power. It is my opinion that you desperately need to either read my textbook, From My Hands to Yours, or visit any of about ten different lessons on the Equus Online University, or preferably both.

Believe me, I am not trying to be overly critical of an owner who expresses love for her horse. What I am desperately trying to do is be responsible for giving my owner information as to what is appropriate as expressions as love for your horse. Several that you have outlined are well off the mark. I am here to help.

1/14/2015: I can’t tie up my five-year-old horse. He has broken everything I have put on him including a tied on lead rope with no snap on a good quality rope halter which he broke just past the lower knot under his jaw. We have tried a lot of stuff — a power pole and a 12,000 lbs mountaineering carbine with a lariat, so we could just clip him on so he didn’t know he was being tied. This worked after a month hit or miss, I brought him home put him on a hitch rail he has broken off before and he busted the rope halter in a split second. He is not a big horse, all Quarter Horse, very athletic just can’t tie. I wrote you before a month ago, sure need some advice. He is a tobiano black and white gelding, has a 4 year old pasture mate, he rides great, a little wild but is pretty good once he finds he can’t act up.

Monty’s Answer: Virtually everyone who has owned a horse has at some time experienced an episode where the horse pulls back when tied. If your horse successfully breaks free several times, he is likely to develop a phobia where he feels compelled to pull back when tied. Certain activities are more likely to evoke pulling back: loud, sudden noises, or movements in the horse’s environment, or tying the horse in the trailer with the back door open.

Horses are naturally ‘into-pressure’ animals; the behavior your horse is exhibiting is to move into the pressure he feels on his poll. Your goal is to re-train him to yield to pressure with-out causing unnecessary pain or fear. I would suggest your first step should be to school him with the Dually halter until he is comfortable moving off the pressure.

Having completed this, you will need a solid smooth wall, eight feet (about two and a half meters) high and twenty-four feet (eight meters) wide, with a tie ring in the center of the wall at a height of approximately seven feet (two meters) high. Attached to the tie-ring you must have a thick bungee rope (such as ‘The Leader’, available through www.jedlickas.com; or check with your local tack shop or farm supply to see if they stock the product). The next step is to create a D-shaped enclosure with round-pen panels attaching to either end of the wall and curving to meet approximately ten to twelve feet (three to four meters) from the wall at the center point.

Take your horse into the enclosure, attach his halter to the bungee rope and exit, closing the round-pen panel after you. If he chooses to pull back, the bungee rope will stretch approximately ten feet, at which point he will bump his hindquarters on the panels and be unable to go further back. The bungee rope will continue to exert a gentle pressure on his head until he steps forward, releasing the pressure. He is in a safe environment in which he can experiment with the pressure and learn to move forward and accept being tied.

The environment I have briefly described for you is depicted in great detail in my text-book, From My Hands to Yours. Horses that pull back can be extremely dangerous, as when they panic, they can hurt themselves and others. It is imperative to keep yourself safe and create a safe environment for your horse.

1/7/2015: I was wondering if there could be a post about how to train a horse to mount from the other side. Where I ride it is often impossible to maneuver a horse to mount from the left, and whilst I can mount from the right it would be great to “kiss” and have him step towards me. I followed the training for normal mounting and it worked well, but I’m not sure if by doing the same training for the left I will confuse my horse. I wouldn’t want him to step sideways down a rocky slope for example! Should another sound be made? Should I make him associate an alternative signal with stepping to the right?
Any help would be much appreciated!
Best wishes for the New Year!
Imogen, UK

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for writing and for using the training from our lessons on the Mounting Block http://www.montyrobertsuniversity.com/training/2031188578. Schooling a horse to the mounting block, having them stand and wait patiently until the rider is prepared to move forward is essential to this exercise. Although we most often mount our horses from the near side, I recommend you train as bilaterally as possible for every condition.

It wasn’t until about three years ago that I was shown it is possible to train a horse to actively move forward, seeking the mounting block, moving sideways, assisting the rider to mount. After training about a hundred horses to execute this procedure, I now know that we can expect this from all of our horses. Having said that, a horse does not know his right from his left but will come to you and the mounting block with the same cues, whether from the left or the right.

The mounting block is not an essential tool for many riders, but it becomes a part of developing the proper mind set within your horse. It helps build the right foundation for patience and understanding of a partner’s needs. If you follow the lesson, standing on the mounting block and leading your horse to where his nose is just past your knee, then making a “kiss” sound, he will move to you whether you are on the near or off side. Practice this before you head to the hills.

Question:

Dear Mr Roberts,

I have a 9-year-old Thoroughbred mare that I purchased almost two years ago with three weeks’ training off the track. At the time I was 13, and with the help of my instructors I have been training her in dressage, cross country and show jumping since I got her. From the time I got her she has shown a lot of promise in all areas even though she would always bolt off in jumping. The past six months however, she has really been acting up, especially in jumping. She would balk and refuse even the smallest jumps. Also when I first got her she was terrified of most tack and equipment, especially whips. A couple months ago, I decided to see how she would go bareback, because I remembered that she had done well bareback some time ago. I expected her to play up and either bolt, refuse jumps or start bucking again. However, she was an absolute gem, even in jumping. I began experimenting with different activities and found she was much calmer and much more responsive without the saddle. Is it possible that she links the appearance of certain tack and equipment with the bad memories of pain and other things from her racing days? And could this be why she is acting up? Could the increase in difficulty of the training have finally brought back bad memories?

Sincerely,
Hannah

Answer:

Thank you for writing and making the effort to be a good student of your horse’s behaviors and comfort. It is also encouraging to hear you are retraining your mare from the racetrack to other disciplines. It is a wonderful feeling to find those activities that your horse enjoys by ob-serving their demeanor as you pursue them.

Most experienced horse owners reading your question will undoubtedly want to know if you have had your mare checked by the vet for any source of pain. The obvious place to start is your saddle. Re-read your question with that in mind and I think it will point to the saddle as a source of pain, whether ill-fitting or inappropriate for the activity.

As to your question about her skepticism of tack, whips are an obvious problem for any horse that is exposed to whips to cause pain. Horses are not born afraid of whips; they are taught to fear whips through pain. Anything that looks like a whip to a horse that has been hit will naturally cause fear in that horse. Pain destroys trust in horses.

Ill-fitting equipment can also cause pain, even if it is unintentional on your part. Remember too that horses are neophobic so any new equipment will be perceived as potentially dangerous or even deadly to a horse. They act to survive until they perceive that the object is not a threat. If your horse trusts you, their ability to trust their environment greatly improves.

Don’t underestimate the power of incremental learning. If you and your trainers feel you have put too much pressure on her to accept her lessons, stop and reassess your goals. This is the lesson I learned from Brownie and I recorded it in The Horses in My Life book. Brownie gave his all, but I needed to meet his needs too.

A strong recommendation from me would be to enlist an experienced trainer to start with the smallest kind of equipment you could use. A snaffle bit and pair of side reins and a surcingle might well be the first level in this incremental approach to cause the acceptance of tack and equipment. After carrying these objects for a couple of days, an hour each day in the box stall one could move to the next step if it seems appropriate.

The next move I might make is to add the long lines to the snaffle and the surcingle. When your horse is accepting the long lines and responding very well, one could add a small and then larger and larger pad under the surcingle. All of these accepted, then one could move to the first saddling.

Start with a small saddle if possible and use the long lines having the stirrups act as guides. A strap between the stirrups can hold them at the sides. I would work my way up to a very large saddle and then add small plastic bags to the saddle, moving to larger bits of plastic. There is no end to what you can do to cause your horse to accept any equipment that you chose to use.

~ Monty

Question:

I recently purchased a dressage horse that the owners said had failed to show promise in dressage and they would sell him at a good price. Unfortunately I came off of him and now I am afraid to ride him again. I hope you can help. What happened was I was going to dismount, so I took my feet out of the stirrups and the metal stirrups touched his sides and he ran off. I went one way and he went the other. How do I build my courage back up to ride him again?

Answer:

It occurs to me that there is no better time in the past 65 years or so of my career to answer this question. The reason for that statement is because recently I was sent a German-born Warmblood that was purchased and brought to the US for high level dressage competition. After causing significant injury to two separate people, this horse was sent to me to see if there was any way to rectify the situation. I have now had four months or so of training him, and he is vastly improved.

There is no way to identify what his negative experiences were, but it is clear that there were negatives that left him a fragile ‘basket case’ of sensitivity. The injured riders were high level competition people, which does not mean that they were prepared for an equine kamikaze. What we did with him stretched us not only to keep the riders safe but to keep our horse from killing himself as well. These procedures require enormous experience and an aptitude for dealing with ultra sensitive horses that have moved to a state of being potentially lethal.

It is likely you are obligated to secure the services of an extremely talented professional. The answer to this question should not encourage the thought that I am preparing you to find an immediate answer. Most of the problems I have dealt with regarding remedial dressage horses has been to execute desensitizing, which appears to be in answer to lunge whips and dressage whips that have implanted fear deeply into the nervous system.

Another remedial problem often seen is rearing. The act of holding and spurring often produces rearing. When the dressage horse rears, most riders go passive. The horse comes to feel that rearing is the answer to causing the rider to back off of their demands. Do not allow me to leave you with the impression that I am sweeping all dressage riders and/or horses with the same broom.

You may have made a purchase without careful consideration of the horse’s needs. Perhaps you did not go through the necessary process of assessing the horse before you rode him. If you are not an advanced level rider I cannot blame you for losing confidence. Like wise, I am not blaming the horse for reacting as he did. In fact, it is true that the most sensitive horses generally produce the highest scores.

At this point, you need to seek professional advice in a trainer, preferably one who understands my concepts and professes non-violent techniques, who can meet you and your horse. I created a DVD called The Perfect Match which is my guide to buying a horse, for this very conversation http://www.montyroberts.com/shop/dvds/dvd-perfect-match/

Please write and let us know how it goes.

~ Monty

Question:

Dear Monty, I have a 17 year old Welsh Pony and when I put her in the round pen, she won’t move. I have successfully completed join-up with my 11 year old Standardbred with all the clear signs and also follow-up. It was the first time I did join-up with my Standardbred but I have owned and ridden horses for many years before. I would say I am an intermediate and experienced rider. I have never inflicted pain upon a horse and always believed that there was another way to train a horse.

So, I have completed Join-Up with one horse but with my Welsh Pony she simply won’t move. I have been assertive, eyes on her eyes, body square with hers and throw the long line behind her but she doesn’t move. I don’t think that she is in pain because she can run or walk when she wants(I watch her) but when I try to make her go, she won’t. I have stopped that day because I did not know what else to do. Also, I used to ride her and she would go, but recently she just decided to stop. I can’t get further then out the gate. I think she stops because she is lazy or stubborn and knows that I won’t hurt her, so she doesn’t move and then she gets away with it because I just don’t know what to do. I would really appreciate a reply because she is quite stubborn and she over eats so I try to exercise her, but she tends to not move whenever she wants. When I try to pick up her back feet, she tries to kick at me and has a couple of times. The aggression on her face shows, and I am trying not to be scared of her but it is very hard when she tries to hurt me. What can I do about my troubled pony?

Thanks so much,

Natalie

Answer:

Dear Natalie,

It sounds as though I could use your pony for an entire night’s demonstration event. I would quickly ask if you have used the Dually Halter. The next question would be ‘Have you used the Dually Halter to stand still?’ The next question would be ‘Have you trained your pony to stand still while using the Dually Halter?’ Then I would ask if you have tried plastic bags on a stick to send the pony away. I would then ask you if you have done Join-Up® in the round with a horse that will go away. I would estimate that there are more than 20 questions that I could raise as to an exploration as to how to solve the problems that you outline.

From My Hands to Yours (textbook) and the Equus Online University are each loaded with answers to the questions that you bring up. Obviously I am not seeing you with your pony, so I am required to speculate as to the reasons for the behavior that you describe. Please look into finding the answers to the questions that I have posed here and if you are still having trouble with it, communicate again and I will try to fill in the blanks regarding the problems you discussed regarding your question.

Sincerely,

Monty

12/10/2014: Dear Monty, I am a long time follower of your amazing work and I try as much as possible to use your philosophies and techniques in my training. I am very much aware of your feelings toward hand fed ‘treats’ for horse (and other animals) and I’m curious on your thoughts on allowing horses to graze in hand. Do you feel this can have an effect on the horses attitude towards people? What effect/s do you feel it could/does have? Is there a difference, in these effects, between the horses that take a sneaky bite of grass when your shutting the gate, for example, and horses that are allowed a pick at that grass in the down time at a competition?
Kate Fremlin

Monty’s Answer: I find your question extremely interesting and I hope that students will benefit from an exploration of the effect hand grazing has on the behavioral pat-terns of our equine students. I feel that it is critical for me to be very careful not to take from horse people those elements that they find fun with and that have no dramatic effect so as to create negative behavior. You have touched on a subject that requires a factor of “it all depends” where the answer is concerned.

If a horse owner has an effective companion or competitor for a significant period of time, my answer might be a vastly different from the horseman who is dealing with an animal, let’s say, younger than 10 years of age. A horse that would graze quietly, exhibiting no negative behavioral tendencies, can often be grazed on a line without breaking any of the rules of good horsemanship. If one sees the horse begin to control the human body movement, trouble could be following very quickly.

This is a situation whereby an art form is in play. A good horseman must be able to read the effect of procedures such as hand grazing on the good or bad behavior of the horse in question. Once this is done then there is the matter of the equipment used which is another issue all together. Hand grazing could be considered a slippery slope. It is far easier to create bad behavior by hand grazing than it ever is to allow the horse to graze in a pasture on its own.

I don’t like my answers to be as vague as this but this particular question is difficult to pin down without details informing the art form of being a good horse person. Please continue to write to us with your progress and we will help as able.

12/3/2014: I have seen and heard a lot of debate over horses rubbing their heads on you. Could you please clarify for me as to whether this is a good or bad thing? I’m under the belief that if I have entered my horses space, it is acceptable, but should be discouraged if the horse does this after entering your space (a display of dominance?) My horse only does this if I enter his space, and I have been allowing him to rub his head on me. He doesn’t to this with enough force to push me around, he is quite gentle about it.

Confused,
Jamie Buswell
Australind, Australia

Monty’s Answer: If you allow your horse enough time at this business of rubbing his head on you, he will eventually rub too hard. Given enough time it will probably be head butting you if this progresses. Whether you step into the horse’s space or not, rubbing his head on you should not be accepted. I would use a Dually Halter and back him up firmly each time he does it. The reverse needs only to be two or three steps and he will soon learn the consequence for rubbing.

11/26/2014: Hello! I have an 8 yr old ‘killpen’ horse that a ‘horse flipper’ bought and sold to me, so no telling what past she has had. Quarter Horse mare, 2006. In excellent physical health. She had been trained and broke, ridden, lunged.

I have her and a cow on 36 acres. The cow is not socialized and charges frequently at people. She is not mine, and never allows anyone to work with her on any level. My horse seems to be obsessed with the cow. So when I lead her into another pasture to lunge, or ride, she panics, physically looks around, spots the cow and flees back to the cow, and if I have her on a lead, she bucks and jerks and goes into a panic.

I thought about separating the two, but I have no other companion animals, and I would get more but I worry the same thing will happen with any other horse or animal I add in. I do not want to scare her or hurt her, emotionally or psychologically, but I know I need a change, and I need it soon. I have had her for almost a year and it has only gotten worse, my mare and the cow are inseparable.

Do I separate them? I do have access to well-handled, trained companions, horses, and other animals, do I add one or several? Is there a routine I could develop?

Thank you so much, I really need help. I have been unable to ride her or work well with her, she is so focused on where the cow is, and when she panics, she does not stop, she stays strung up until she gets away. I do not ever yell at her, hit her, scare her, I try to remain as calm and gentle as possible. I do not enter the pasture if I have had an emotional/stressful day and have not calmed down.

Thank you again.
Alexis B.
Texas, USA

Monty’s Answer: Separation anxiety is covered by a chapter of the same name in my textbook, From My Hands to Yours. There are some complications to the procedures that I outline to care for the problem you described. It would be wise for you

to get the book or somehow read the chapter on separation anxiety. There is no question that these two animals need to be separated. The question is, how to go about it?

The first consideration in this matter is to have your horse in a safe place with good walls or fences when you make the split. I feel confident that the cow will take care of herself but it´s the horse I would concern myself with regarding potential injuries. Once the separation is made then one must plan a course of action whereby there are two enclosures available in this scenario.

Bonded animals are a problem globally. It is wrong of us to blame the animals but they simply believe that they will not survive without their friend. It is our obligation to create an environment that is conducive to separation. I feel your frustration, but it is absolutely essential that you take the proper measures at the earliest possible time. These behavioral patterns can be dangerous.

11/19/2014: What do horses need to keep them warm when traveling in a trailer the winter? Does it depend on the type of horse?

Monty’s Answer: Transporting horses in winter time can vary tremendously depending on the geographic location. If we are talking about transporting across the Northern reaches of Canada, Scandinavia or Northern Russia, it is very different from the challenges of transporting across Spain, Italy, northern Africa or the southern part of the United States. The fact that you mentioned transporting in the winter leads me to believe that we are concerned about freezing temperatures.

The most often made mistake in this incident is that we will tend to keep the horse too warm. This can lead to more problems than traveling with a horse that is a bit cold. It is always a good idea to condition your horse to accepting electrolytes in the water so that hydration can be maintained.

Ventilation of the vehicle in use is also important. Care should be taken not to have it too drafty but certainly not sealed off so that fresh air is unavailable. If safe, it is a good idea to have a human traveling in the vehicle with the horse in extreme cold. This person should have communication with the driver so that modifications can be made should there be a need to do so.

Frequent stops for moderate exercise is highly advisable as low temperatures tend to cause muscles to cramp up if not exercised with moderate frequency.

11/11/2014: What are important things to check on your horse before transporting them in the winter, can you do anything to avoid them slipping on ice or wet trailer floors?

Answer:

The best way to protect a horse’s feet is to cover the foot with rubber hoof boots. This will allow the horse’s feet to stand up off the ice. In addition, it will reduce the potential for a horse slipping on icy surfaces. You could check with your veterinarian as to substances you can place in the boot that will aid the foot in fending off ice and offensive moisture. If conditions are extreme, a veterinarian from the local geographic area will probably have some good words of advice.

Sincerely,

Monty

11/5/2014: What is one tip of advice that you would give someone who wants to transport his or her horse in the winter?

Answer:

Traveling with horses in the winter time is far more dependent upon the individual condition of the horse than it is the type of horse. An Icelandic horse with a winter coat will be far easier to transport successfully in cold weather than an Arabian with a short summer coat. I realize that these are simplistic answers but they have to be accompanied with the specific circumstances of the conditions evident at the time the transportation takes place. An equine veterinarian in the general geographic area is the best source of assistance.

10/29/2014: My sister bought a pony in July – 8 year old 13hh gelding (beautiful show hunter pony). He is a lovely mannerly pony when ridden & well schooled.

HOWEVER, has seriously nasty habit of biting when in the stable, tied up or loose. Grooming is becoming a hazard for us. He is also very nervous when eating and walks the box and lunges at the stable door, biting anyone passing, showing his teeth etc and kicks the stable partition etc if any persons are in the stable next door whilst he is eating.

He has a split personality – outside is gentle and easy to ride but still bites on occasion, but in the stable he is nasty, we cannot let the children go near him. Previous owners said he preferred to be outside. This nasty personality has just got progressively worse as the weeks have gone on since the pony arrived with us in Scotland.

He was bought for my 9 year old niece who is riding him nicely and getting used to him. BUT she is becoming nervous of him, having seen him be vicious and take a chunk out of her Mum’s arm last night, was the last straw. It has happened once to often now & if it had been a child’s arm it would have been devastating…

Any advise or help would be appreciated – as said we live in Scotland and would be grateful if you knew of any training or people that may help.

We do not want him to bite one of the children & if we cannot retrain or sort this out, this beautiful pony may have to be put to sleep.

Please help.

Thank you pending your reply,

D, J, T, I & Family, Scotland

Answer:

Reading your question brings chills to my spine. It is not that I haven’t heard this question before. In fact, it is one of the most often asked questions. Your pony is ‘acting out’ one of the most natural tendencies of the flight animal that has been caged up in some way or other.

The first step is to call out a veterinarian to examine the pony. A vet can properly rule out any medical causes underlying aggressive behavior, which could be happening as a reaction to pain. Horses and ponies sometimes resort to aggression to protect their personal space, if they cannot get away from the source of their pain.

If you have ruled out medical causes, then we can explore the behavioral pattern that we are discussing here, which is that of ‘territorial’ aggression. We have taken away your horses’ grassy plain and even small fields. In modern times we have decided that horse can live for sustained periods of time in a small room averaging 12×12 feet (4 meters by 4 meters).

Most horses will accept the small room and cause very little trouble over territorial issues. A small percentage, however, will evolve to a point where they will protect their territory with lethal violence. Several issues of husbandry can be implemented to reduce the anxiety and aggression exhibited by ‘territorial behavior’. This behavior can be manageable. It is simply a manner of observing the pony’s needs and then meeting those needs even though there might be a factor of inconvenience experienced by the owner or handlers of the pony.

First let me state categorically that no hand feeding should be practiced whatsoever. It matters not to me whether the hand feeding occurs in the stable or out of the stable. In actual fact there is probably a history of hand feeding because I have found that 80-90% of the horses handled by leisure owners have been hand fed. This sets up a set of behavioral patterns that will lead to the ‘territorial’ phenomenon you have so clearly outlined in your recent Q&A entry. Let’s take a look at how we can handle it at this point in time. You can fix it.

In no way should this pony be allowed to reach with his head outside of his box stall (loose box). An inexpensive barrier of some sort can be placed over the door of a horse experiencing territorial behavior. Not only does it make it safer for the people around him but in addition he will probably feel a bit less of an urge to protect his home area by lashing out at passers-by. This is a problem I deal with globally. Equestrian centers will consistently verbalize horror stories regarding otherwise sweet animals that would try to take your head off over the door.

In addition to the door protection, I often tell owners “Never hand feed your horse”. Food connected with the human body is often the major contributor to the territorial syndrome. What I suggest is that the horse is removed from the stable. The stable is then ‘fed’ and the horse returned, released in the stable and left alone during the process of his having a meal. Take this component out of the life of your pony and good things will happen on your journey to allow the pony to return to his normal inherited pattern of non-violence.

Do Join-Up with your pony and when a good Join-Up is accomplished, try follow up. With these two elements well imprinted, return the pony to the stable, close the upper door and do not bring any food to him while he is in his box stall (loose box). You will observe a decided improvement within a week or so if you follow these instructions to the letter. With Join-Up in place, catch your pony by stepping into a wide open door, leave it open and wait for the pony to come to you. Do not look your pony in the eye while he is approaching you.

One should have your eyes downward watching the legs of your approaching pony, clip on and remove your pony from the stable before any grooming or tacking up is attempted. Leave your pony alone while in the stable. Remove the pony for feeding, watering or mucking out. Following these rules, the people around the pony are safer, strangers passing by are safer and the pony will live a much happier life than he is contending with at this time because of people who have misunderstood him in the past. This practice will work.

~Monty

10/22/2014: Hello Monty, my daughter has just brought home a miniature horse, he is 10 months old and is already gelded. I thought it would be a good idea for her to learn your methods and this may seem like a silly question but I was wondering if everything with the Join-Up and Follow-Up are the same with miniature horses as it is with larger horses? I ask this because they are so small so you feel as though you are standing above them.

Regards,
Cassie

Answer:

Dear Cassie,

It is not very often that I get a question about minis. I am pleased to answer this question because the minis are simply horses that are small. Their personalities, their fears and their behavioral patterns are exactly the same as their larger relatives. It is my opinion that they do not even realize that they are so small. They will respond to the language Equus in the same way that larger horses do. The problem often is that people anthropomorphize their existence as if they were human. By the time we try to train them we have often destroyed their unique characteristics as Equus the flight animal. I am pleased to have the opportunity to address these aspects of the horse world. It is only fair that we learn to respect their position in the species Equus.

Sincerely,

Monty

Question: I am just emailing you to inquire on your Join-Up concept that I did with my young Arabian mare at home. I watched some of your videos on Join-Up and decided I would give it a go with my horse because I am really interested in natural horsemanship and creating that bond with my horse that I see in your videos and clinics.

However I don’t have a round yard at my house so I decided I would do it in our large 10 acre paddock full of cows and other horses. I didn’t know if it would work, especially seeing as I hadn’t ridden or interacted with my horse much lately due to school requirements and also because we haven’t done anything like this before so I didn’t know if she would understand what I was trying to do, what with my lack of understanding of natural horsemanship so far.

But it did work. I chased after her without even a rope and she took off but instead of bolting to the opposite side of the paddock like I thought she would, she stayed circling around me in a really prance-y/dance-y way. Then after five minutes she stopped and faced me and drew herself up and snorted really loud at me and I turned and jogged off and she followed me around the paddock. It was the most magical and amazing thing I had ever felt in my life.

I guess my question is, how come it worked so well in the paddock? Why did she stay around me in a circle of probably a diameter of 30m? She listened to my every command, as soon as I took the tiniest step in front of her she immediately turned and bolted the other way. Does the fact that it worked, and so easily too, mean we already have quite a strong bond/partnership developed already? Was she maybe playing with me and understanding what I was trying to teach her?

I am currently doing a school research project on how natural horsemanship has been formed and is trained so that it strengthens and creates bonds between horse and rider. How exactly does Join-Up help that?

If you are able to reply that would mean a great deal to me and would help me a lot. You are of great inspiration to me and I hope to one day have such a great understanding of these magnificent horses.

Thank you and kind regards,
Riley B.

Answer: Thank you very much for a fantastic response to your early attempts to communicate with your horse. Obviously I don’t advise people to do Join-Up when there is a group of other horses in the field. The reason for my hesitation here is that of safety. If a student is paying attention to a given horse, it’s hard to pay equal attention to all of the others. Distractions like cattle are also a challenge under normal circumstances. The fact is, however, that it worked for you under difficult conditions.

There is a high probability that your horse did not respond because of a bond already formed between yourself and your horse. The fact is that your horse was simply communicating in its language. On this day your horse found you to be using the same gestures that I have found to be effective in the communications effort with equus. I do not jog away from my horse to get Join-Up but since you did and it worked, I tend to believe that it was a rare occurrence. Walking relaxed is usually more effective.

Your horse traveled in circles because horses live in circles. It would be a bit difficult to explain in an answer like this but circling is a critical element in the survival instincts of horses in general. I remember in the early days when people said to me that the wild horses would just run away and when I suggested that they lived in round pens in the wild, it was greeted with considerable criticism. The fact is that horses to live in large round circles even in the wild. You have witnessed this phenomenon.

I am proud of you for your success but particularly your interest and the decision you made to give it a try. Please continue to follow my work and communicate periodically because I’ll bet you that you will discover something you could teach me along the way. The horses will benefit.

At this point in time I am in my 80th year and I am still learning. It is true that in recent years my students have brought me many discoveries they have made which have become helpful to me. I find that these individuals recommend about 10 to 20 ideas before they come up with one that is worthwhile. The fact is, however, that the journey to discover better ways is one that should be encouraged by every teacher no matter what the subject of study involves. Thank you so much for your work.

Sincerely,
Monty

Question: I have met with you twice in the past and visited your farm while we were visiting California (from Ajax, ON Canada). Wonderful facility!

Just a question. I have a 9 yr old Andalusian who was unridden till 7 years old. He is very smart and learns very quickly. I have taught him Spanish Walk, moves laterally easily, shakes his head on command…touches objects , walks trots, canters…and steers, stops, turns and Spanish Walks when I rode him with a rope around his neck (no use of reins) first time trying it.

He becomes highly alert at the far end of the arena and often spooks at the slightest sound such as scratching of birds feet on the rafters, slightly blown creaking door…(or nothing). I walk him by the area quietly, sometimes stop and rest in that area…ride him around pylons in the area…but he refuses to “Give it Up”. He may pass quietly a few times ..then a spook!

Any ideas? He is worse passing to the right of door. Now he has decided the end wall mirror going to the left is “scarey” and he has no fear of that at all usually!

Cheers,
Amanda B.

Answer: In cases such as this, I have found that we need to create a feeling within the horse that this is a safe place, a little like their own stable. In order to accomplish that I have discovered that we can usually find a way to safely and conveniently tie the horse in the area of concern. This might be done after hours or before hours, in order to not inconvenience other horses or riders. If digging is a problem for the footing, one might have to put down some rubber mats to protect the soil. The tying sessions should be for an hour or two so that relaxation and acceptance has a chance to set in before returning to the stable.

-Monty

Question: I have a new horse and am experiencing something I have never come across. The first few days I just sat in the catch pen letting him settle in and become used to my presence. Then I did Join-Up with him and it seemed to be going well. Then one day he started turning his rump to me and backing up. I’ve never had a horse in 35 years ever do that. Any ideas of what/why he’s doing this? Thank you.
God’s Blessings,
Cheryl K.

Answer: The fact that I have not been present during the entire course of the work that you outline, it is not possible for me to know for sure whether or not mistakes were made along the journey that you describe. Hearing the words however tend to tell me that quite possibly you have over-done the Join-Up exercise.

Often times people find that it works well and they have fun with it so they do far too many Join-Ups to the point where it becomes a job for the horse and not a pleasurable experience. I am not saying you have or haven’t done this but your words open the door for this to be a possibility.

Having said that I want to point out that this could easily be less important than the next problem I intend to address. If I had been on the scene I might well have noticed that somewhere along the line your horse experimented with turning his tail toward you.

With that, it is possible that you stopped putting pressure on him. This action would be very effective if your goal was to train your horse to stop and turn his tail toward you. Again, I didn’t see it and you may not have done it. The next step however is to deal with the behavior that we wish to modify.

At this point in time I would look for something that the horse regarded as spooky and not acceptable. This might be the sight of plastic bags on a stick or the sound of something that your horse finds annoying. Stop the discomfort when the horse comes forward and use it when the horse stops and turns his tail.

If you are diligent about observing your horse’s behavioral patterns you will identify the proper course of action. If you have ever played the Yes/No game you will quickly understand that one can achieve incredible performance from people or horses alike with the simple use of YES for what we want or NO for what we don’t want.

While this is true we simply never suggest that pain be introduced to the scenario. One might achieve the desired results with the crack of a whip across your horse’s hips BUT a few sessions like this will almost always wind up with an angry horse, kicking back in a dangerous fashion.

-Monty

09/24/2014: I am interested in learning more about your relationship to the Brooke Animal Hospital and your work with horse handlers in India. Why are horses important to this group and what do you intend to impart to the people you meet in India?

Monty’s Answer: Horses are flight animals. They can only have two goals in life. One is to reproduce and the other is to survive. They respond to the moment only and have no ability to lie. It is my opinion that this makes their species a perfect study group for better understanding the behavior of human beings. Horses are neophobic, they cannot trust anything that is new to them.

The Brooke [https://www.thebrooke.org/] is an international animal welfare organization dedicated to improving the lives of working horses, donkeys and mules in some of the world’s poorest communities. I was invited to become their ambassador to advise and help train the care providers who treat and train programs around animal health and well-being across Africa, Asia and Latin America.

The discoveries that I have made and the concepts that I use are imbedded in the DNA of Equus, the flight animal. I have placed the name on their language, simply “Equus, the language of the horse.” I now use horses to help troubled people. Currently I’m working heavily with military men and women suffering from post traumatic stress injuries.

The results of this work have been dramatically successful. Other groups include those affected by domestic abuse, child abuse, violence in the work place, law enforcement people and firemen. The past four years has found me working more with humans than as a professional horseman. It is true, however, that I use horses with virtually every group of people that I work with.

In this video, http://www.wjla.com/articles/2014/09/-horse-whisperer-works-to-heal-veterans-with-ptsd-107398.html
you can see the work we do to help heal veterans with PTSI: Post Traumatic Stress Injury. For more information about our free Horse Sense and Healing programs, go to www.Join-Up.org.

Watch our website [www.MontyRoberts.com], Facebook and Twitter pages for daily updates while I am in India volunteering to help The Brooke with our mutual pursuit of a better life for horses and for people too. This year The Brooke celebrates 80 years of existence and I am in my 80th year. Our mutual mission statements and paths were destined to align.

9/17/2014: I am from Brazil and hope to see you work with horses in person someday. I don’t understand Natural Horsemanship. Is it just being nice to your horse or can you tell me what you do differently and why it works?

Monty’s Answer: Beginning at seven years of age I observed horses interacting with other individuals of their same species as well as humans and other predators. These observations led me to the conclusion that they have a clearly defined language that is executed with gestures much like signing for the deaf. In the early 1940s I set out to see if I could learn how to execute this language.

The challenge was significant, but when I experienced incremental success, it was extremely gratifying. My father was a very violent man. He used his violence on me as well as the horses. It became my mission in life to discover how horses could be trained and partner with us in the absence of that violence. When successful, I then wanted to show it to the world.

When I was 54, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II witnessed my work, endorsed it and asked me to take it to the world. It was 1989 when The Queen requested my first book “The Man Who Listens to Horses” and set up a tour of 21 separate venues through the UK and Ireland. Publishers said the book would sell 3,000 to 5,000 copies. Current numbers indicate nearly six million.

Anyone can learn the language of the horse and anyone can learn how to Join-Up with horses. My textbook and Equus Online University are tools designed for horse lovers from all riding disciplines to learn how to communicate with horses. I hope you too will want to learn how to communicate in the horses’ silent language of gestures. It will benefit your relationship with your horse and possibly many other areas of your life.

9/10/2014: It was great to see you on Fox and Friends and in the US helping our Veterans. I hope you get to Cleveland again. I’ll never forget that abused horse you were able to help. You obviously hope to improve human’s lives as well as horses. How is that?

Monty’s Answer: Each element of human behavior that I work with has its own psychological implications. In the case of the military people, one must recognize that when building an army, the decision makers must cleanse each individual of trust. Men and women going to war must become devoid of trusting any one or any thing. It is the nature of surviving at war.

When returning from war, these individuals are asked to go back to civilian life, trust their wife, their children, and their boss. They are told to get a job, be a nice person and live happily. There is very little that is done in any country to reeducate these people to the challenges they are going to face in the absence of trust. Horses can cause the trust to return.

It has become my goal on my tours to show my audiences how I can use horses to elevate the trust in human beings. This is a relatively new adventure for me although I began my work for the military in 1954. It was during my University education in Behavioral Sciences. Now I can show how horses can play a role in improving the lives of people.

9/3/2014: I can’t imagine how many horses you have worked with and trained. Would you please share what you think is the best thing about horses?

Monty’s Answer: Imagine if every human we dealt with told us the absolute truth. Imagine if those we love could be trusted completely. Imagine how the world would be if all humans had no selfish intentions where we are concerned. Utopia would be the outcome. Horses give us the opportunity to experience this if we will take the time to learn their instinctual patterns of behavior.

Horses have never stalked, killed and devoured any other species. Horses want no violence in their life. It is now my obligation to bring these facts to the world of horsemanship so that the use of violence can be eliminated from the human tendency to control through force. Horses could play an extremely valuable role in changing the world.

With regard to the horse count for me, I believe that I have worked with more than 50,000 horses. We have kept a relatively close count on the number I have presented to live public audiences. In mid 2014 that count is approximately 12,000 individual horses. Most of these were remedial but about 3,200 were receiving their first saddle and rider.

8/27/2014: Hi Monty, what was the worst experience ever with a horse and what was the best?

Monty’s Answer: It seems to me that the worst experience I ever went through with a horse happened when I was about 15 years of age. I was riding my second horse, Brownie. He had been a major champion for me throughout my junior competition career. He was a captured Mustang and represents one of the first horses I trained through “Join-Up”. I loved him like a brother.

While working Brownie one afternoon, he simply dropped out from under me and died instantly of a massive heart attack. It was one of those experiences a horseman tends to want to forget, and I haven’t visited these thoughts for many years. Brownie and his attempt to educate me will remain with me for the balance of my days. His work will help other people too.

The best experience of the thousands of positives that I have had, the day that Johnny Tivio broke a world record in a Western competition. The particular record that he broke was in a class which represented the first time he had competed in that particular type of competition. It was overwhelmingly satisfying and nobody believed it was his first time.

8/20/2014: I have a new boy which has come off the race track. He has been off about 2 months now. I have bonded well with him and comes to me when I call him however he is terrible in the stable.
If one walks past the stable he lashes out trying to bite. I have spent every day, since I got him, trying to get this out him. He now allows me to touch him in the stable but still puts his ears flat and when somebody else tries he bites. I tried going in the stable about a week ago and needless to say he turned to kick. Could you please give me advice on how I should handle the bad stable manners?

Monty’s Answer: This is a question that I have answered many times, each with slightly different circumstances. The underlying cause of this is that we have domesticated horses for 6000 years placing them in increasingly shrinking accommodations. Horses become territorial. After all, there was 47 million years when they lived on grassy plains with no human intervention at all.

Imagine the difference to the horse’s brain when at one point they could see as far as the eye could perceive with no interruption to a grassy environment when compared with today the normal box stall or small corral that we tend to provide for them. It is my opinion that horses incriminate human beings most often when food is involved.

My suggestion is that we should never feed horses while in their normal accommodations. It is far better to remove them from the stable, feed, then bring them back to the stable and let them find the feed already there. In addition, we should not enter the stable during that time when the horse is actually eating. It tends to promote this behavior.

Horses with a ‘half door’ which allows them to put their heads outside the box stall are at elevated risk to develop this territorial behavior. They tend to feel that they have to protect their home and then they often get a slap on the nose for doing what they believe to be a natural act. You see it on a global basis.

Equestrian facilities with large numbers of humans roaming about seem to be a breeding ground for territorial behavior. Equine heads out the door tends to satisfy humans that they are being nice to the horse. This environment actually produces many problems including territorial protection. Please share with us how you implement these suggestions and your outcomes.

8/13/2014: Monty, I hope you can help me stay safe. My horse rushes through narrow spaces and its get-ting dangerous. He is bothered by passing through stall doors, narrow gates, trailer loading – things like that. Friends tell me this is not uncommon in horses but this is the first horse I’ve had that really panics. He recently rushed and stepped on me, pulling the sole off my boot. Time to address this problem please!

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your question. There are no words to describe how timely this question is to come through. For the past year or so, I have been working on a theory designed to help horses through this behavioral problem. Recently while working in England I had two horses that one could describe as lethal when it comes to blasting through narrow spaces.

A whole new world opened up for me when I realized something that should have been evident to me for the past 60 years or so. The placement of what we will call the hip bones of the horse and the way they are made encourages within the horse, a feeling that, if stimulated in this area, rushing forward should be the solution. With a few collisions with stable doors, fence posts or other objects, blasting forward becomes a ‘glazed over’ obsession. Therein lies the problem.

The solution I am finding most successful comes straight out of the world of loading horses in the starting stalls of the racetrack. My discovery was that if the horse learns to accept stimulus in the flank and hip area it is most likely accepted while moving in reverse. The shape of the horse, and the fact that backing up is an unnatural direction contributes to the acceptance of side stimulus while moving in reverse. This was an “aha moment” for me of the highest magnitude.

It has been an exciting few months to discover what I can cause a horse to learn. As responsible horsemen, whatever we can teach our horse to willingly do is good. What we can accomplish to create an environment in which our horse enjoys teaching himself, is enormously better. I have actually caused horses to accept side and hip stimulus by backing through tight places within 24 hours of being ballistic while passing through the same opening in a forward manner. Once the stimulus is accepted then the forward movement is far more tolerable.

The proper use of the Dually Halter is incredibly important in this effort. It is now clear to me that we have done far too little in the area of education regarding the use of the Dually Halter. While its true we have educated we never even knew the breadth of the value of the Dually Halter for purposes we didn’t even know about. The answer to this question will only be part of the solution. An upscale educational effort must be made to expand the knowledge of the Dually Halter owners. I hope to excite all horsemen with these recent discoveries.

8/6/2014: I purchased a horse a little over a year ago. He was promised to know everything, but we quickly realized he knew pretty little. He would not back up or pick up his feet. He even bucked off my uncle (his name is actually Bucky). Thanks to Join-Up, we are now riding and we have a great relationship. My question is because he does not take change well and will rear or bolt when scared. I would like to start trail riding this year and show him next year. What would be the least stressful way to make this transition? He also has not seen other horses in years.

Monty’s Answer: When people go to a gymnasium for a workout to increase muscle strength, they must stress the very muscles they intend to strengthen. There is very little in life that declines to answer a price for improvement. Young people go to school to study and work hard to get an education. There is a price to pay.

When you pose your question by stating that you want to know “the least stressful way to make this transition” this is a very simple answer to come up with. The answer would be to use no stress at all. It wouldn’t be very effective, and one would end up with the same remedial tendencies that one started with. Many owners follow this course.

The proper answer is to apply stress but make it incremental. This is to say that you expose your horse to the scary objects (it’s the same for introducing him to other horses), but you do it little by little. If the horse is frightened by plastic bags one should use a very tiny piece of one plastic bag. Increase the size of the bag until you can throw plastic bags all over the horse with a minimum of frightened response.

Once the plastic bags are no longer a problem, move to the next frightening object and repeat the incremental increase of the stimulus until that one is acceptable. These can be done in steps which include dozens of frightening objects until the horse is literally accepting of every imaginable stimulus that a horseman can find to work with.

We can get help these days with spooky sounds by using recordings of scary sounds which play on a loop in your horse’s stable. We can also hang scary objects in the enclosure with the horse until they are longer frightening. Fear of traffic can often be dealt with by placing the horse near agricultural equipment. Tractors, trailers and hydraulic lifts can help.

Please do not think of all stress as being counterproductive. Without stress in the life of animals or humans, we tend to produce ‘vegetables’ that are not strengthened by overcoming their natural fears. It is stress caused by pain produced by humans that should go on the list of ‘unacceptables’. No flight animal should accept human-produced pain.

7/30/2014: I have a 15 yr old TWH/QH gelding that I show in Dressage, Hunter, English Pleasure (side saddle & saddle seat) and Western Pleasure at small local shows. I have owned him for 13 yrs and have shown him for 10. For the past 3 years he has been unhappy in the arena during a class (competition). Warm-ups and training he works hard and enjoys his work. He is even used as a lesson horse at my friend’s barn. He has been known to fall asleep while we are waiting outside the ring between classes. We go for long trail rides. He loves all the attention that goes with being a show horse. But as I said, once he enters the ring for a class he changes. He speeds up, he chews his bits, he pins his ears and arches his neck.

Monty’s Answer: It has been several days since I was first made aware of this question. I have walked around pondering the answer. First, I would feel as though I wanted to be ultra kind to an owner who loves their 15 year old equine partner. This notion would often be followed with “I have to be fair to those owners who might someday be challenged by a similar scenario.” I guess it’s fair to say that I virtually always end up speaking for the horse.

Please do not find my answer offensive as I mean it to be educational for other horse owners for generations to come. With that in mind, I will attempt to speak for our four legged friends in a manner as inoffensive as possible. Please take
the time to sit down and read your question three times, slowly. Process your words, allowing yourself to hear the question through the ears of your horse. One does not have to read between the lines, as each segment of the question answers itself when the behavior of the horse is allowed to shape the answer to that segment of the question.

It is unfortunate that I haven’t had the opportunity to observe you and your horse in competition. It is not my intention to be unfair while having to speculate as to your actions as a competition rider. I can only build my decision based on my own tendencies and those that I have become accustomed to throughout 60 years of competitive riding.

Each of us has a strong tendency to raise the bar for our horses when we know that there is an official in the middle of the ring tapping a pen to a score sheet. With the human brain, we are able to understand that this next half hour or so is going to require the best performance we can give. We seldom stop to consider that the horse only has its rider for communication.

What would happen if suddenly there was a judge in the warm up ring and a show official said that there would be a $1000 prize to the best warm up performance? Suddenly your horse would know it was a competition. How
would he get the news? From you! I know your horse is intelligent, but I am certain you have never seen him reading a newspaper.

We humans give our horses every nuance of the information that comes to them from the human species, whether we realize we are imparting it or not. My career is full of stories where I mistakenly called the horse stupid only to find out that the label belonged to me and not to my horse. As the saying goes “be careful what you ask for”.

With the words of your own question, you plead guilty to asking this horse to compete from an enormous list of variations on the demands that we make of the horses in the show ring. What part of “I am sick and tired of competing under fire for all these years. I am mad as hell and I just don’t want to do it anymore,” don’t you understand? Ray Charles could see this.

It is with confidence that I believe that as you re-read your question light bulbs will flash through your brain. You may be embarrassed. It is likely that you will exit to the barn yard as fast as you can, throw your arms around your horse’s neck and through tears you will say “You don’t have to compete anymore, I was so silly not to listen to you much earlier.”

Once more, please don’t take offense to my answer. Ginger, Brownie, Dan Tack, and many others that I competed on ultimately told me that it was enough. Sometimes I let it go too long myself. Making mistakes is never the problem, it is failing to learn from our mistakes that constitutes unacceptable behavior. I am confident that you will see this too.

This question offers me the opportunity to publicly write something that I believe has never been given its proper exposure to the horse world. It goes like this:

“AS RESPONSIBLE HORSEMEN WHATEVER WE CAN TEACH OUR HORSE TO WILLINGLY DO, IS GOOD. WHAT WE CAN ACCOMPLISH TO CREATE AN ENVIRONMENT IN WHICH OUR HORSE ENJOYS TEACHING HIMSELF, IS ENORMOUSLY BETTER.”

7/23/2014: First of all I would like to thank you for your online university. I really admire your ethos and good work you have done. I feel very privileged to be an Equus online member and have learned so much already. After studying your videos I recently completed my first Join-Up with great success – it was very exciting and I now look forward to trying more of your methods to help a very spooky Arab gelding that I loan.

My question for you is, are there better times of the day to ride? And times that we should avoid exercising our horses? I work full time in London and often do not get up to the barn until gone 7pm. The other option is to ride before work so very early morning. I am guessing horses can be like humans, especially older ones, where they may be a little stiff in the mornings and this should be taken in to consideration, i.e. give the horse longer to warm up. But what about in the evenings – can it be harmful to ride a horse before bed time? I know they do not sleep all night like we do but I imagine once the sun goes down their body goes in to a restful state and so maybe exercise could delay or disturb this down time.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your interesting question. It certainly should win a prize for being the first time this question has been asked, at least in my memory. There is no question that certain times of day are more appropriate for riding your horse than other times might be. These choices ought to be made with a full understanding of the daily routine of the horse in question. Feeding times are extremely important to take into consideration when choosing riding times. Each stable routine is unique and must be closely considered.

Riding immediately before the feeding time is inappropriate. It is just as inappropriate to ride for at least one hour after feeding time. Some operations have flexible schedules and can meet the needs of the owner involved. Others have specific schedules with little variability. It is your obligation to make yourself aware of feeding schedules before selecting the riding time. I would not worry so much about riding after dark unless there is a safety issue involved regarding the area available for your riding schedule.

Some stable schedules will allow for very early feeding. This might allow one to ride between 7-8 am because of a 5 am feeding time. Some stables will feed light at 5am with a heavier feeding schedule for 10 am or 11 am. This is a very good schedule for many owners because it allows them to go to work at 9 am or so. The after work hours can work well if the feeding time is at around 4 pm allowing for riding after 5 pm. I am not so concerned with horses being stiff in the morning or tired in the evening.

Horses have an ability to adjust to reasonable schedules but it should be noted that they love a consistent routine. One should be careful not to overdo the week-ends and attempt to stay fairly close to the routine established for the week days. Owners may well ride longer on the weekends but keep the work load relaxed and enjoyable. It is the owner’s responsibility to consider weather patterns in the geographic location so as to keep the riding times enjoyable and safe for the horse as well as the rider.

Certain areas of the world are extremely hot during the middle of the day. This represents one of the most uncomfortable conditions a horse can face. Close consideration of the horse’s comfort should be taken in the desert areas where extreme heat is a factor. Horses can handle extreme cold better than extreme heat however I see conditions should be noted as a danger where hoof traction is concerned. Some city dwellers ought to take into consideration high traffic times if this might be a safety concern.

7/16/2014: I have just purchased a 6 month old foal who is still on mum. He has not been touched for 5 months but now I have a halter on him. Was wondering how old can they be before using your Dually Halter (I have all of them)? Should I do while he is still on mum or after weaning? Which is the best way to wean? e.g. Some say just take the mare to another property or do with a dividing fence then further once they settle. Keeping in mind the mare will walk fences badly.

Monty’s Answer: In my textbook ‘From My Hands to Yours’ there is a section on the use of the foal handler and recommendations for the use of the Dually Halter. Since we now have the Extra Small (green) Dually, I have been using it on young foals at 7 or 8 months. One must be careful with the babies not to over tax them with harsh handling. Let the Dually do the work in a kind way.

It is my opinion that weaning should be done at approximately 5 months of age. I prefer to wean when there is another foal of weaning age still with its mother. I would have the two mares and the two foals in the same enclosure until they became friendly. Then I would take the two mares well away leaving the two foals in a safe enclosure with good fences and safe footing. The sounds from the mares or the foals should not reach one another. They should be more than a kilometer apart. At no time is it appropriate to wean with a single fence dividing the mare and foal.

7/9/2014: This is the first time my stallion has been rearing and striking since I’ve had him. I believe the trigger involved two things: First, we had started to teach him the Spanish walk. One does so by tapping the foreleg with the whip, lightly. The stallion then lifts his leg and makes a clawing motion. This turns into a Spanish walk, hopefully. My coach warned me jokingly just yesterday that we were teaching him how to strike. Secondly, my coach has been in the habit of using the whip on his chest to make him back. We have a Dually and have used it extensively. But he would try to playfully nip when asked to back with it. So my coach tried taps on the chest with the whip — maybe ones that were at times too hard. I believe these two things gave my colt license to strike out. The first instance was with me when I was leading him. We had a side rein on the outside to prevent him him from turning his head inward. But he got ahead of me in a corner and faced me. I tried backing him by flinging the whip towards his chest. This apparently provoked him to come at me with mouth open. He didn’t get me because he was distracted by my coach. The next incident came the same day after my coach had practiced leading him. All was fine when my coach stopped, and the stallion, seemingly out of nowhere, reared and struck at him. The rope got wrapped around his leg which stopped him from further action I believe. He has been doing beautifully until we started this Spanish walk thing which, I believe, connected with the whip tapping on the chest to back. I think he had had enough. How can we address this issue safely?

Monty’s Answer: There is a strong urge within me to send you a private message regarding this horse, his behavior and the questions you’ve asked me. My private message would be short and would indicate that I believe that it is totally irresponsible to advise men or women who are not professional handlers of stallions regarding what to do with an aggressive adult stallion. I have a second thoughts on this particular situation as it has to do with letting my reading public know my position whenever this subject is brought to me for an answer. I suppose I have skirted the issue long enough, so here we go.

This is an almighty serious situation and it does not call for the mincing of words or the introduction of levity. Perhaps I should simply suggest that you watch the movie BUCK. If you have already seen it, I suggest that you watch it again. I have talked with many people who saw the film but simply set aside what was a nearly fatal attack by a stallion on a professional horseman. There is no excuse available to any of us to treat this situation as if it had a solution that could be conveyed through any technical device available to us today. It is my hope you will heed my advice.

For one moment please imagine that I am an expert in the field of explosive war devices. Further imagine that I received a request from a 12 year old boy in Afghanistan who wants me to advise him on the best methods to defuse road side bombs. Should I accept the challenge and try desperately to educate him I would most likely be giving him a sentence of death. In the case of advising non-professional stallion handlers on how to deal with an aggressive stallion,
I believe I would be just as irresponsible as if I were to answer the young man. Please heed my recommendations.
Remember that someone in my position learns how to read between the lines. The horse is an adult stallion who has gone aggressive. You can soften the words any way you want to. Remember your use of the term ‘playfully nipping’.

Also remember your words ‘This apparently provoked him to come at me with mouth open’. This horse has been whipped. He has over ridden the whip by using aggressive tactics. This will increase as time goes by and reversing the process is virtually impossible. Castration can, but not always, assist in reversing the process. This comment is virtually always responded to by saying ‘But I want to breed with him’.

In the early 1960s I traveled to the farm where a famous Arabian stallion stood at stud. A lady actually showed him and won many championships. She was entirely capable. The horse was bad. I suggested she send him to a professional breeding farm where he could be handled by several men on each occasion. My visit was a Sunday. Her truck-driving husband returned home on Thursday to find her ripped to shreds in the horses box stall. The husband picked his two children up at school and announced to them that they no longer had a mother. I never want this again.

This is the second horse that has been brought to me this week with a story extremely similar. As the world gets smaller and we love our horses more and more, it is my opinion that these stories will be more plentiful. I now know that I have to do what I can to let people know that these animals are only doing what nature dictates they do. In this case, someone came into his world to control him with the violence of a whip. He decided he was bigger, faster stronger and totally capable of controlling his world. I want the world of horse people to know this answer. If I can help you further please let’s discuss solutions privately.

Do not, for one minute, think that I am telling you that the horse is at fault. I want everyone to love their horses. I want them to treat their horse in an acceptable manner and seek solutions that are effective whenever there is unacceptable behavior. I do not want people to simply love their horses, have someone treat them with violence and then convince themselves that it will be okay because they love their horses. This is delusional thinking. Whether the behavior is from violence or total lack of boundary setting, the danger is of equal magnitude.

7/2/2014: My mustang is spooky when we’re out riding, especially of things in the distance. If a person or critter is on the trail ahead of us, he’ll stop dead in his tracks. He flares his nostrils and snorts. What should my approach be to this behavior?

Monty’s Answer: A question has come to me as outlined above. I happen to know that this rider is a strong athletic male, in good health and with outstanding coordination. He is however a strict beginner in so far as riding is concerned. I don’t know for sure where this horse was raised but since the address is in the rural Northwest , I find it very possible that this horse grew up in the presence of significant predation. It is not beyond strong possibility that during his formative years he met up with a grizzly or two. This will mark a horse psychologically for the balance of their life.

The description indicates that this horse is acting out through olfactory stimulation. This means he is frightened of what he smells. Visually he picks up on a distant person or critter, freezes in his tracks and then starts to snort. The snorting is a method by which he clears off the olfactory plate which allows him the ability to smell even the slightest odor from a great distance from him. I am pleased that you did not indicate that he then bolted, bucked or acted out in a dangerous fashion but that might be the next course he chooses if indeed he is frightened enough.

If all that I have speculated on is actually true then he just may not be a horse that is appropriate for a beginning rider. This could easily be a life time component of his defense mechanism. You mention that you have another horse, Babe, who is appearing to fall into the category we term bombproof. It is not easy for me to read between all the lines of your question but it seems clear that Babe has a quiet disposition and does not express all the volatility of the horse you have outlined with the scary tendencies. Take a hard look at making a switch.

It is not easy for me to speculate to the extent that I can always be right without seeing the horse and watching your responses to the action you describe. I will always tend to respond on the side of being cautious particularly where a novice rider is involved. Horses in general get far too much blame for situations that an advanced rider would handle quite easily. Once there is an emergency room visited then medical people tend to take the position of “Oh, here comes another horse injury. Why do people chose to get involved with these dangerous critters anyway?”

This is a position taken by medical people globally and from their perspective I can fully understand it. I congratulate you for taking the time to ask me the question and since I know that you are a beginning rider who has justifiable concerns I am going to give you the best answer I can while admittedly prioritizing safety. Some novice riders, particularly strong athletic men, would simply say “I am not going to let this horse beat me. I am big and tough and I’ll get through this.” All too often, the next stop while harboring this attitude, is the emergency room.

6/24/2014: How does Monty attach the plastic bags to the end of the bamboo pole please? From looking at it on the videos on the Equus Online University, we think he holds them down with a rubber-band but does he drill a hole in the pole and put a rope to attach the bags to?

Monty’s Answer: In this modern day and age, man has come up with a wonderful invention. I heard a story about a kid who was walking past an old man’s house. The man was tying fishing flys for his next adventure on the nearby river.

“Where are you going Johnny?” the old man inquired.
“Duck hunting,” said Johnny.
“What’s that you’re carrying,” said the old man.
“Duck tape” said Johnny.
“You can’t catch ducks with duck tape,” the old man replied.

About 10 minutes later Johnny came back with a duck who’s legs were securely tethered with duct tape. I tell you this to make it a memorable answer for you. The inventors went on to improve their product and they called it Gorilla Tape. This wondrous invention will hold anything together. I simply put the little handles of the bags along the end of the pole and then put about two wraps of gorilla tape around them and even a horse like Fergus can’t dislodge them.

6/18/2014: I am a man who loves horses especially Quarter Horses and Crioulo Horse. I love the sport of Reining Horses. I learned to start horses with one Brazilian Horse trainer, Eduardo Salgado who taught me the basis of their method join up.
I do not know with whom he learned, but it works for me. After reading his book, “the man who listens to horses”, I improved my techniques. But I still have many doubts, but not many difficulties. Except with horses very scared and fearful.When I need to start a horse very scared and fearful, I have some problems that do not know how to solve, then just winning the horse with insistence, but not with violence.
My doubts are now:
Some do not LICKING and not CHEWING the air, when they chewing not bowing downtheir head. I do not know if I’m doing it right when the job takes longer than an hour.
What should I do?
Leave the job for another day, and resume from the point zero? Or should I continue as I have been doing the insistence?
Indeed, the insistence I do not like the result. Why the horse does not show full confidence in me. But he trust me with time.

Monty’s Answer: What I think I am hearing here is someone who is virtually self-trained in Join-Up and is simply not getting it correct enough yet to be effective. I don’t know whether you are on the Equus Online University or not but I would suggest that you see as many Join-Up lessons as possible or enroll in a course with one of our instructors so that a trained person can watch you as you work.

It is possible that I will be coming to Crioulo breeder Mariano Lemanski’s hometown of Curitiba where I will be working with the Crioulo there. I am sure that if I were in your round pen, the same horses that you are having trouble with would Join-Up with me because I am experienced in the language. Its about getting the language right and since I haven’t seen you I can only speculate what it is that you are doing wrong.

6/11/2014: I have looked after a donkey for three years. His name is Horacy. I have read of your book and I am interested in your methods, especially Join-Up. I would like to know if I can apply it with Horacy. I don’t know if this method will help donkeys as well as horses.

Monty’s Answer: Donkey’s are wonderful characters but they have some unique characteristics. They will not continue flight distance around the round pen any where near as far as a normal horse. Their Join-Up varies greatly from one individual to another. They are extremely intelligent, so you should not feel that it is the donkey’s fault. You simply need to get the language right in order to be effective.

6/4/2014: I am having trouble with my Thoroughbred filly doing Join-Up. She is very fast and very sensitive. How do I slow her down to get the signs you speak of like licking and chewing, ears on me and lowering her head? When I try to slow her down by moving in like I might turn her, but don’t, she had slowed a bit but now she speeds up and is getting bargey. It’s getting harder to turn her with every attempt. My round pen is is 12 meters across. What am I doing wrong?

Monty’s Answer: Let me start out by saying whether your round pen is 12 meters, 16, or 20, the facts pertaining to this particular problem are virtually the same for any round pen. As the horse traverses the round pen your body should be behind the center line of the horse, your eyes on his eyes, your shoulders square and all of the body language techniques that you have learned about Join-Up should remain clearly in place.

It is critical in all of the training that we do with horses that our messages are consistent. Mixed messages will get us in trouble virtually every time we use them. I think this is very much the case with young children as well. Mixed messages come in all shapes and sizes. They have their degrees of severity like any other effort to communicate possesses. Only recently I watched a young lady attempting to slow down what we tend to call a “roadrunner”. This title fits a horse that is exuberant, finds it necessary to circle the round pen at great speeds and just glazes over and refuses to slow down.

The world is full of road runners and while you get almost as many who refuse to go forward with generosity, road running fits a fairly high percentage of the horses we deal with. This young lady was moving forward of the horses head and even squaring up and lifting her elbows to become more formidable and lo and behold she got the horse to slow down. The young lady viewed this as a successful maneuver. When her horse was approaching the appropriate speed she would return to the driving position and allow the horse to pass by her, pushing through the body signals she was executing.

Before the session was over the horse was going significantly faster and barging past what she perceived as the signal to slow down. If this set of mixed messages were to continue, we would have a relatively bargey horse in one session. Stepping in front of the driving line to get the horse to slow down and then, in effect say, “That’s OK. You can go on by” is a mixed message without any question. It will eventually get you bad behavior.

The answer is not to move in front or ‘fake’ the turning signals but instead drop back further from your horse, experiment with dropping your eyes downward toward the horses front legs, and relaxing significantly. This will almost always produce a slower moving “roadrunner”. The fact is you still have a roadrunner but one who will habituate to slowing down for the right reasons. The predator (human) has taken the pressure off instead of mixing the messages in an attempt to demand the slower pace by blocking the forward progress without really meaning it.

5/28/2014: We have a lovely horse, good jumper, good tempered, etc, but she fidgets in a show line up. You mention this problem with Pearly King what can you advise please?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for giving me a chance to discuss, once again, what I consider to be the most important of the six imperatives. The six imperatives basic requirements of any riding horse are:

1. To move forward
2. Turn left
3. To turn right
4. To stop
5. To back up
6. To stand still.

It is my opinion that the most important imperative is that of standing still. No matter the discipline, the breed, equipment, or the type of rider, all horses must stand still to pass my qualifications as a reasonably well trained individual. Without this characteristic no horse should be considered “well mannered”.

Pearly King would not get fidgety in the line up, he would explode in the line up. I probably would have never met Pearly King if all he did was fidget. The reason I say this is that virtually every horse in the line up fidgets more than I would be happy with. People, including the judges, tend to accept minor fidgeting. At the same time, judges greatly admire an alert, energetic horse that stands without moving the feet, ears indicating awareness of circumstances in the environment. In the case of Pearly King everybody in England knew how bad he had been and were amazed by the change.

It was literally a one day session with a rider who was a dream student and learned my principles more quickly than one could ever imagine. There is help for you on my Equus Online University and From My Hands to Yours textbook. Your question however reminds me that more footage on the Online University would be desirable in order to assist with this global problem which tends to plague so many competition horses. While its true that “standing still” should apply to every single horse on earth, the competition horses must pass muster or go on the list to be considered unsuccessful.

The use of the Dually Halter is highly recommended for beginning your standing still lessons while operating from the ground. This is important for standing for the veterinarian, standing for the farrier, standing for the groom or tacked up as well as lesser important things like just taking a picture. The Dually should be used with the idea that its just fine for the horse to move its feet however after a step or two one should act firmly and back the horse into relatively the same position from which he moved. This should be repeated until you see the horse start to move and then stop.

Once this is accomplished the horseman should chose various areas and all sorts of distractions that might tend to evoke fidgets. One must develop good timing and pledge themselves to utter consistency. Once standing still on a loose line is accomplished it is the responsibility of the horseman to move to the saddle and then execute the same procedures with the same timing and consistency. Now with normal headgear on one can usually work with a lighter touch because there is an understanding by the horse of the act of standing still. A few sessions will make a major difference.

The primary problem of the majority of horsemen is that they want to make the horse stand still. With that in mind when the horse begins to move the feet, the rider tends to pick up the hands tighten the reins and act to stop the horse from moving. This action is totally ineffective. On e must operate with the hands down and loose reins allowing the horse to move if that’s the choice that’s made. Tolerate 2-3 steps, stop the horse on the spot and reverse to the approximate area where you were successfully standing. Once again repeat in various areas and circumstances.

When I first met Simon Charlesworth, the rider of Pearly King, his muscle memory was trained deeply to pick up the reins the instant he felt the horse begging to move. What occurred after that was something similar to an arm wrestling contest. Soon Pearly King would be soaked in sweat, rearing, spinning and disturbing other horses in the line up. It was then that he would be asked to retire from the ring. Pearly King had the looks, the deposition, the coordination and all other attributes to be a supreme champion but failed in the effort. That is, until he met up with my concepts.

It is my hope that this answer will assist you with your horse but please continue to dialog with us because I want all of my students to succeed and I know that these concepts are not simply successful with the horse that fidgets but even with the one that explodes. In addition to being effective the execution of the principles that will solve this problem are fun when one sees a relaxed horse with a lower pulse rate. Horses that learn to stand still give every indication that they are happier horses than those that allow uncontrolled motion to drive adrenaline and anxiety up.

5/21/2014: We have a lovely horse, good jumper, good tempered, etc, but she fidgets in a show line up. You mention this problem with Pearly King what can you advise please?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for giving me a chance to discuss, once again, what I consider to be the most important of the six imperatives. The six imperatives basic requirements of any riding horse are:

1. To move forward
2. Turn left
3. To turn right
4. To stop
5. To back up
6. To stand still.

It is my opinion that the most important imperative is that of standing still. No matter the discipline, the breed, equipment, or the type of rider, all horses must stand still to pass my qualifications as a reasonably well trained individual. Without this characteristic no horse should be considered “well mannered”.

Pearly King would not get fidgety in the line up, he would explode in the line up. I probably would have never met Pearly King if all he did was fidget. The reason I say this is that virtually every horse in the line up fidgets more than I would be happy with. People, including the judges, tend to accept minor fidgeting. At the same time, judges greatly admire an alert, energetic horse that stands without moving the feet, ears indicating awareness of circumstances in the environment. In the case of Pearly King everybody in England knew how bad he had been and were amazed by the change.

It was literally a one day session with a rider who was a dream student and learned my principles more quickly than one could ever imagine. There is help for you on my Equus Online University and From My Hands to Yours textbook. Your question however reminds me that more footage on the Online University would be desirable in order to assist with this global problem which tends to plague so many competition horses. While its true that “standing still” should apply to every single horse on earth, the competition horses must pass muster or go on the list to be considered unsuccessful.

The use of the Dually Halter is highly recommended for beginning your standing still lessons while operating from the ground. This is important for standing for the veterinarian, standing for the farrier, standing for the groom or tacked up as well as lesser important things like just taking a picture. The Dually should be used with the idea that its just fine for the horse to move its feet however after a step or two one should act firmly and back the horse into relatively the same position from which he moved. This should be repeated until you see the horse start to move and then stop.

Once this is accomplished the horseman should chose various areas and all sorts of distractions that might tend to evoke fidgets. One must develop good timing and pledge themselves to utter consistency. Once standing still on a loose line is accomplished it is the responsibility of the horseman to move to the saddle and then execute the same procedures with the same timing and consistency. Now with normal headgear on one can usually work with a lighter touch because there is an understanding by the horse of the act of standing still. A few sessions will make a major difference.

The primary problem of the majority of horsemen is that they want to make the horse stand still. With that in mind when the horse begins to move the feet, the rider tends to pick up the hands tighten the reins and act to stop the horse from moving. This action is totally ineffective. On e must operate with the hands down and loose reins allowing the horse to move if that’s the choice that’s made. Tolerate 2-3 steps, stop the horse on the spot and reverse to the approximate area where you were successfully standing. Once again repeat in various areas and circumstances.

When I first met Simon Charlesworth, the rider of Pearly King, his muscle memory was trained deeply to pick up the reins the instant he felt the horse begging to move. What occurred after that was something similar to an arm wrestling contest. Soon Pearly King would be soaked in sweat, rearing, spinning and disturbing other horses in the line up. It was then that he would be asked to retire from the ring. Pearly King had the looks, the deposition, the coordination and all other attributes to be a supreme champion but failed in the effort. That is, until he met up with my concepts.

It is my hope that this answer will assist you with your horse but please continue to dialog with us because I want all of my students to succeed and I know that these concepts are not simply successful with the horse that fidgets but even with the one that explodes. In addition to being effective the execution of the principles that will solve this problem are fun when one sees a relaxed horse with a lower pulse rate. Horses that learn to stand still give every indication that they are happier horses than those that allow uncontrolled motion to drive adrenaline and anxiety up.

5/14/2014: Hi Monty! My name is Anne Shaffer and I have a 13 yr old rescue Thoroughbred who is absolutely terrified of cows and I thought we got him through it but just the other day I see he regressed. I even kept him in with a cow and he became great friends but the cow went to slaughter. I rode the other day coming up on a herd of red and white Herefords and 5 minutes of circling and backing up into a field I decided to walk him by them! Can you please give me ways to get this horse of mine to ride worry-free by cows please? would be much appreciated . Thank you!

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. I suggest that you find a farmer who might lend you a small calf to help your horse become familiar with cattle and demystify these animals for him. Introduce the calf to your horse and let him live in the stall or paddock with the horse as he grows up. In just a few months the calf can go back to the farmer to live in a field with other cows. You should ask permission from the farmer to visit your horse’s friend, the calf, in the field amongst other cattle.

Firstly your horse should be more comfortable with the sight of cattle but he may still be wary of the movements and the sounds of a herd. Your calf will likely remember your horse and come to you when you enter the field. The other cattle may follow the calf and you now have the opportunity to condition your horse to seeing cattle and become calm with you aboard, or you can lead in if you are not feeling safe about it. After that, try other places and other cattle.

5/7/2014: Dear Monty; I would like for my mare to easily put on a bit. However, she hates honey, sugar, molasses and is NEVER fooled by anything tasty she enjoys like grass or hay that I weave over a bit. I can usually only get the bit in her mouth after at least 10 or 15 minutes of sweet talk and cajoling. Any thoughts?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. I guarantee you that given a week to 10 days I could get her to taste the of honey. One must put the honey on food items that we know she loves. It may only be a drop at a time on a tablespoon of oats or some food item that she often eats. If you placed in front of her a handful of typical sweet feed would she eat it? If she would then she likes the taste of molasses. What occurs to me is that you have done is to expect your mare to eat the desired substance in the pure form. This will often overwhelm the taste buds and cause the horse to back away.

This is something I go through virtually every time I condition a horse to accept a bit with honey on it. I recently went through a situation in England with an owner that was certain her horse would never eat honey. There was a need to medicate her horse with oral medication. The horse would refuse an oral syringe even to the point that she would strike at the owner with her front feet. I outlined a plan of action and this diligent owner followed my every recommendation.

Within a week her horse was following her around the stable, asking to have the syringe put in her mouth with no problem at all. The owner is currently able to medicate standing on the outside of the box stall with the horse’s head over the door taking the medication with a drop of honey on the outside of the syringe. Horses are horses and they don’t vary enough in their taste patterns to execute the behavior you have outlined without a way to deal with it.

4/30/2014: My question to you is about “toys” hung in horses stalls. In your opinion do you see them as causing any behavior problems? I know they are made to reduce boredom but could it cause head tossing or nipping, etc. I am the only person in the barn that does not give treats out of hand.

Monty’s Answer: My position is that toys in the stall are not a significant problem unless there is food involved. If the horse is encouraged to destroy a product or to get a treat, then it is my opinion that they are negatively impacted. Toys that encourage movement and relaxation are no problem for me. At no time should there ever be food offered from the hand.

4/23/2014: I was thinking about your question in the newsletter about the signs of an unhappy horse and I have some questions. An unhappy horse nips, shows teeth to people that enter their stall to clean. They immediately turn their back on you, pin their ears, shift their weight off their hind quarters and out of the corner of their eye aim for your head. The human— me— did not use force, or hit the horse anywhere at any time. Nor did i nor have i hurt this horse, a mare named “pearl”. I kept my head down, using Join-Up by displaying to the horse that i was not a threat, nor that i was going to hurt her. All i wanted to do was hug her and pet her. It took me turning my back just as she did for her to lower the head and lick the lips.

Monty’s Answer: I simply do not want to recommend to everybody in the horse world that they simply turn their backs on a horse that is exhibiting aggressive behavior in a box stall. There is a misconception here. This is a failure to recognize that this behavior is because of a desire to protect territory. It is not the expression of meanness or the desire to hurt someone but simply to draw territorial lines.

Just as we humans, horses have their territorial boundaries. Some horse simply do not want the indiscriminate entry into their bedroom for the purpose of hugging and loving them or for any other reason. This behavior will often be expressed when the human is bringing food to them in their stable. I recommend feeding the stable with no horse in it and then introducing the horse.

Hugging and loving the horse is easy to do when you are away from the stable on neutral ground. This is a much more acceptable way for the horse to receive your attention. It is likely that the horse means you no harm. Dogs will often growl at the owner they love if they are approached while sleeping in an area they consider their own domain, this is an often seen pattern.

4/16/2014: This horse has been trained not to canter as its previous owner was older and just wanted to walk and trot so the horse was told off every time he tried to canter. Now when you ask for the transition into canter it is very difficult and he usually does a lot of fast trotting. Most of the instructors say smack/kick him and squeeze him lots, but by doing this you usually only get a couple of strides. How would you teach him that he is allowed to canter and that it isn’t a negative thing when its so hard to get a couple of strides in?

Monty’s Answer: This is a question that strikes right at the heart of the Giddy-Up Rope. If one goes to the Equus Online Uni lesson series titled ‘Walter Won’t Go Forward’, this is a great example of the use of the Giddy-Up Rope. It is the alternative to painful striking, which I do not recommend.

4/9/2014: What reasons might a horse bite at his sides? Is it anger or pain or what?

Monty’s Answer: Horses will seldom bite at their sides out of anger. Biting the side is more likely to be pain driven. Ulcers are often the culprit in these cases. Please see my website regarding the product SUCCEED http://www.montyroberts.com/shop/horse-health-care-products/montys-succeed-for-leisure-horses/

Most horsemen are familiar with cribbing, weaving and box walking. There is a rare phenomenon where horses bite themselves the same as people chew their nails. I knew a fantastic Thoroughbred stallion called Round Table. He was worth millions but literally ate holes in his sides.

This was a form of Ritualistic Habituation whereby Round Table found something he needed from committing this act of self-mutilation. We still don’t understand why people chew their nails. We can identify the type of personality that might conduct this activity and it is probably stress related but there is still much to learn about these forms of peculiar behavior.

Whether this is a health issue or behavioral, it is always recommended that you speak with the veterinarian familiar with the horse. I will keep working on this side and you keep working too.

04/2/2014: Does a horse need shampooing?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question regarding shampoo. Horses are 50 million years old. Shampoo has been around, I suppose, for maybe a couple of hundred years. Horses lived before there was penicillin or shoes to put on their feet. Shampoo, in my opinion, was a wonderful invention. We know that many of the wild horses suffer from the natural neglect that is present in the real world of living in the wild. It seldom kills them, but they are better off without it.

What I suggest that everyone consider is that you consult with your veterinarian about the ph factor of your water and of the substance of the product that you are using on the skin. When I was growing up in Salinas, California, most horse people agreed that “Orvis” soap was the ultimate answer to cleaning the horse skin and hair. Jerry Redding started a company that developed shampoos and other substances for people and for horses too.

Many advancements have been made in the area of keeping horses clean and healthy. I suggest that you study those recent developments as closely as you can and chose the product that is best suited for your geographic location. Protection from the sun is critical in Tucson, Arizona and less critical in Seattle, Washington. Seattle has the need for protection from prolonged rainy seasons while Tucson doesn’t have to worry much in that category.

03/26/2014: I was listening to Monty on HorsemanshipRadio.com and I’m very interested in the ritualistic habituation and would like to know more about it. I’m not too sure tho if he was referring to the right/left turns in the Join-Up process by letting the horse find it’s “ritual” by not pushing too much info to quickly?
I’ve worked w/ deer and observed them for several yrs so I love to hear about his observations. I love the scientific side of him. I too am a “artistic” scientist at heart.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your inquiry. Your question is quite cerebral. I think you already know that there is no answer to your question short of a very large book. It is so difficult to wrap a ribbon around the massive number of things that go through my mind every time I open the door to the academic side of my hands-on life. Obviously the horses themselves will ultimately be our best teachers. I will try to explain in a short answer.

You are correct that I do mean that we often put too much information on the line with the immature equine individual that is in the early days of training. I just use turns as an example, but there are many facets of their education that virtually every trainer heaps on the young horse during those early days. I am not saying that that trainer means to be unfair to the horse. It is clear that they are trying to do the best job of training that they can.

It was only in the past three years or so that I began to entertain this category that I have titled Ritualistic Habituation. What this should mean to you is that I too spent the early days of my career conducting the training procedures that I now believe are less than perfect for training not only the horses, but deer and even children, along with probably every species that man chooses to educate in a domestic setting.

These early discoveries are not ready for prime time. At the moment I am only trying to open the door for inquiring minds to explore the potential for adding an effective component to the training procedures in place around the world.

03/19/2014: I have a horse and he has a lot of energy. He’s three years old and I want to start him. I have a round pen but when I put him in the pen with the intention of doing Join-Up I send him away and he just starts to run. He goes too fast even to the point that it seems dangerous. I remain very quiet, not pressuring him to run but he just seems to glaze over, pay no attention to me and continue at top speed. How shall I solve this problem?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for a very interesting question. In fact, we have never had this question before so I have decided to give you a one year free subscription to my Equus Online University. I have had many of these horses in my career. I call them “roadrunners”. They refuse to pay any attention to me whatsoever. I find that most of them will be Thoroughbreds, Arabians, or Quarter Horses. They seem more likely to have high energy.

The way I deal with this problem is that the instant I noticed the glazing over, I ask them to make a turn and go the other way. I then only allow a few strides and then another turn to the opposite direction. I make about 4-5 of these successive turns and then allow my horse to continue in the original direction. I then watch to see if I have attracted the attention of my horse to the extent that he is willing to slow down a bit.

Generally, with one or two of these procedures, my horse is approaching normalcy and I can go to work with my Join-Up as always. One should be careful not to be too aggressive with the turns at high speed. Generally the “roadrunner” is sensitive enough to make the turns without much encouragement. It is amazing how quickly they will come back to their senses and begin to pay attention to you in a normal way.

This tendency dates back to thousands of years ago when nature placed into the horses DNA the desire to flee with massive intent to outrun the predator to a safe place. Those abnormally sensitive individuals will tend to lose their sanity for a brief time and flee uncontrollably. This is the same phenomenon that is expressed by the run-away horse being ridden. They forget to listen to the reins and keep on running.

03/15/2014: Are there introvert and extrovert types of horses and is one better than the other?

Monty’s Answer: I don’t believe very strongly there is this introvert and extrovert type of horse. Yes, there are differences. But I think the introverted, properly handled horse will express himself. And sometimes this introvert horse will win… and the extrovert horse will be beaten. But you can’t drive him in to his cave. You can’t treat him in a hard way and expect him to perform.

The quiet horse with the low heart rate and the low cortisol levels in the bloodstream and low adrenaline is more likely to succeed than the distracted or excited horse. I say it is more the style of training than it is the personality that he is born with. If you meet that horse’s needs, the introvert will perform for you as well as the extrovert.

03/05/2014: What are the signs of a horse that is not happy?

Monty’s Answer: Reading an equine’s internal state is an art form. You have to learn how to read the horse. It is the movement of the tail, it is the movement of the ears, it is the movement of the eyes. The relaxation or lack of relaxation in the muscles of the neck. The movement of the feet. All tell you “I am happy” or “I am not happy”. And the horse who is really relaxed is the happy horse. When you see stressed horses, their jaw muscles are rigid and their eyes are often wide so that you can see white around them and their ears are stiff. They are not happy, and they are less likely to perform well.

02/26/2014: You often speak of motivating a horse to “want to” do things but what motivates a horse?

Monty’s Answer: Horses have only two goals: one is to survive, the other to reproduce. When they sense they might not survive, their adrenaline rises as does their heart rate and they take flight. In the absence of pain and violence; particularly human-induced pain, horses become more tranquil and willing. We human beings control that more than any other animal on earth; more than lions or bears. The whip is still the number one selling piece of equipment in the tack shops. All this does is drive adrenaline up and raise fear.

02/19/2014: What do you think are the biggest misunderstandings about horses?

Monty’s Answer: The biggest misunderstanding about horses, perpetrated for thousands of years now, is that violence will get you a well trained horse. Since it has gone on for thousands of years, the perspective is that violence works. And it does to an extent but instead of a willing partner, you have a compliant horse based on a relationship of fear. If one understands the horse’s nature, you know causing pain would never get break-through performance.

02/12/2014: Your methods are, of course, among those I have studied and I admire them very much. Your work is truly inspiring. All of this has helped me a great deal, yet I still often experience fear especially around large horses and though I agree that a certain amount of respect is required when handling such large and strong animals I must also acknowledge that my fear and insecurity rubs off on the horse I’m working with because subsequently my fear signals to the horse that danger is ahead. How would you recommend that I address this problem? How can I become a confident friend and leader to my horse if I cannot hide that I am afraid which seems to me an impossible endeavor due to the horses’ sensibility?

Monty’s Answer: My recommendation to you is to seek assistance in learning breathing techniques that are consistent with those utilized by practitioners of yoga, acting singing and public speaking. The science of breathing is critically important to successfully maintaining low adrenalin levels. When we learn to breathe properly, many physiological factors occur that increase our chances to stay calm, be patient, and assess any given situation with a cool analytical approach.
Seek out an acting coach or a yoga teacher, have them read your question and my response and you will probably get the desired instruction. Advise them that you wish to learn diaphragmatic breathing. If they are not familiar with that art form seek out someone who is. When one accomplishes these recommendations, remaining calm and controlling your fear will be far easier. This will help your horse.

For you, I recommend you think about your relationship first with your horse before anything else. My friend Joe Camp recently blogged this (http://thesoulofahorse.com/blog/):

“Thanks to a chance reading of an article by Monty Roberts we were going to begin at the beginning with getting the relationship right first.
Before riding.
Before training.
Before anything.
And ultimately we discovered that it was the single most important thing we could’ve done.

Many trainers and clinicians begin with step number two. Leadership, which translates: groundwork. Obviously a very important step. But it’s step number two. Because when you get the relationship right first, everything changes. Absolutely everything. Your horse now cares about his time with you. He is more giving, more willing. And he tries harder."

Joe is referring to Join-Up®, what I call the moment when a horse chooses to be with you rather than away. As I wrote to Eileen in my January 29 Ask Monty e.Newsletter, “in the final analysis, learning to be at one with your horse, confident in your ability to be in the right place at the right time is absolutely essential to the ultimate success of overcoming these natural fears that are healthy for us to have until we are satisfied that we are in control of virtually all of the potential pit falls that can challenge us on any given day. I think the same thing could be said for learning to ride a motorcycle or even a bicycle.”

02/05/2014: I would like to ask a question for Monty: this long ride I did with my friends, we took reserve horse. What would be the safest way to pull it while traveling and how to tie in the saddle safely. Would be using the Dually halter? How to tie the saddle during the long journey?

Monty’s Answer: To answer this question with safety as the preeminent goal, I would need to know a lot more about the training your reserve horse has had and his uptake of it. For the purposes of helping a broad audience of students, I am going to answer this as if your reserve horse has no training in this regard. With no training, you would never tie two horses together in this manner. I am going to share my advice for training your horse to lead from another experienced horse instead. I think you will see the applications.

It is important to never make a demand of the horse, only request. A willing horse that trusts you will be easy to lead because you have established the foundation for that trust. I would like to investigate the things we request of young horses that might frighten them. These can include walking over a bridge, logs, into the water, and by frightening objects. Traditionally, you might have simply ridden the young horse to a scary object and insisted that the horse negotiate the obstacle just because you demanded it.

Whips and spurs have been commonly employed in these procedures. But, once you begin to dictate to the horse, demanding obedience or causing pain, you will most likely have to employ strong-arm tactics throughout the life of the horse. I believe that if you can begin early in the horse’s life to communicate and negotiate, requesting rather than demanding, you will instill an attitude of cooperation that will serve you well. In this regard, I think one of the most effective lessons for your student is to be schooled to walk through water.

It is essential that any horse can be relied upon to negotiate obstacles without endangering his rider. I am not just talking about trail or ranch horses, but all horses should be safe when dealing with potentially frightening obstacles without undue fear or panic. Below, I have chosen to describe negotiating a water hazard. It will help you while training the young horse if you have the following equipment:

1. A Dually halter.
2. An older saddle horse who is perfectly comfortable walking through water.
3. Two competent riders.
4. An acceptable water obstacle, either manufactured or natural, that doesn’t have a stony or exceedingly marshy bottom.
5. Two poles (jump poles), minimum 12 feet (approx. 4 meters) in length, and about 4 inches (approx. 10 cm) in diameter.
6. One sheet of plastic or a tarpaulin, minimum 8 feet wide (approx. 2.5 meters) and 12 to 15 feet (approx. 4 to 5 meters) long.

I recommend that you begin this exercise by schooling from the ground with the Dually halter, making sure that the horse is attentive and moves willingly forward and backward, synchronizing with you and listening to your requests with adrenaline down. Review the section on schooling your horse with the Dually halter, and then work to achieve the same degree of responsiveness while leading your student horse from your saddle horse.

Once you have a responsive student from the back of the saddle horse, you can move to the next step, which is to lead from the saddle horse over poles lying on the ground. When you have clear cooperation over the poles, spread your plastic or tarpaulin and border it on either side with the poles. Ride over the poles and across the plastic. If your student refuses the plastic at first, you should roll it up and repeatedly walk over it, gradually unrolling it until your horse will walk over it fully spread between the poles.

Having accomplished all the necessary schooling with the Dually and negotiated the poles and the plastic, you are ready to attempt to cross the water. Do not try to lead your horse into the water from the ground; it can be very dangerous. Lead your student from the back of your saddle horse, attempting to have your student follow you and your mount through the water. Many will respond quickly.

If your horse refuses to lead forward and into the water, school by riding your saddle horse into the shoulder of your student and back him in circles at the edge of the water. Eventually, you will have his hind feet in the water and you can ride into his shoulder, turning his forelegs into the water. Be generous with your praise and congratulations by rubbing your student on the neck during moments of cooperation.

Once you have achieved the position of having the student horse with all four feet in the water, you can lead on through. Immediately repeat the process several times until the horse negotiates the water obstacle comfortably. If further resistance is met and you are concerned with safety, add a step of wet or muddy ground between the plastic obstacle and the water obstacle. This usually instills confidence in your student and gives you a better chance to negotiate the water.

When your student is following the saddle horse through the water with a calm attitude, tack him up and repeat the process while he is wearing the saddle and bridle with the Dually halter under the bridle. After this, you can add a rider and begin to lead through the water from the saddle horse. Once your student is negotiating the water with the rider, detach the lead and allow the student and rider to follow the saddle horse. As a final step, your student should negotiate the water obstacle with the rider up and no other horse present.

01/29/2014: Dear Monty and Pat, I’m writing because, at age 54, I’ve been given opportunity to get involved with horses. My husband adopted a 15 y/o paint gelding (El Nino) and a 17 y/o quarter horse mare (Sugar) from a friend with cancer, who could no longer keep her horses. The horse are healthy and of reasonable disposition.

We have a farm, with two large fenced pastures and a barn with two stalls, where the horses will eventually be moved to later this Spring. In the interim, they are boarded where my husband’s friend has had them boarded the past several years and where they receive good care.

My question to you is this: I’m 54. I’ve had little experience with horses except for the occasional nose-to-tail trail ride, maybe 6 of these rides in my life time. To me, horses are beautiful, but large and frightening. I enjoy them from a distance but am quite fearful up close.

Will I really, ever be able to get over my fear of horses?… to perhaps ride competently and comfortably one day?… or at the very least (but really most important), to be able to at least care for them on the ground competently and comfortably?

I read your book “The Man Who Listens to Horses” and have signed up for the Equus Online University. I have completed 32 of your lessons in 8 days. Yet, I’m still fearful. And on Saturday at the barn during a lesson, Sugar spooked at some very loud outdoor noises while an experienced rider was on her. Sugar started running sideways full steam until the experienced rider calmed and settled her. If I’d have been on her, I’d likely have fallen and been injured. Now I’m even more fearful. This was out-of-character for Sugar, but the noises from outdoors were very loud and unusual.

As I said above, really the most important thing is for me to be comfortable and competent with them on the ground, for their daily care and well-being. I’d be thrilled if I could at least do this. My husband will be the main caregiver, but I’d like to be able to help and support him. My husband is not fearful, just has the healthy respect for horses.
We live in Wisconsin, but I’m mulling over trying to attend your H101 course. It sounds like just the thing, but time and distance are a factor.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your question. Please understand that I believe every word of it was well founded and deserves congratulations to you as your comments were exactly as I would want them to be if you were my daughter or my best friend. There is absolutely no disgrace in being respectful of the size and the potential danger connected with the power of horses and their athleticism.

This is a healthy position for anyone to express and what would concern me is the amateur who expresses no fear or concern for potential dangers. Congratulations on your ability to express a healthy concern for your safety and well being while in the process of learning what and who horses are and the potential for danger if significant errors are made. Please do not for one minute hold the thought that I am discouraging you from dealing with horses. That is simply not the case.

As you probably know, horses have dominated my existence for almost 8 decades now. I am relatively free of any injuries significantly enough to list as major. In considering your question I suddenly realize that I have never been hospitalized for an injury caused by a horse. When you consider that I have dealt with about 70,000 horses, I believe that you will agree that this is a relatively amazing statistic.

Please consider that my activities have been as a “Stunt Kid” from the age of 4 and right through to my 60s. Also consider that i competed professionally in rodeos, cuttings and working cow horse competitions well into my 50s. One might tend to say “Well that was you and this is me.” Obviously I agree with that statement but the point is however that I have devoted the balance of my life to helping people understand the need for caution and education.

Thank you for mentioning that you have viewed a large number of lessons on my Online University. That is a good a start as I could recommend. Thank you also for considering the course Horsemanship 101 because that would, in a very significant way, increase your educational needs. At this point in my answer it is appropriate to remind you that selecting the right horse to be around is a critical issue. Is it full-proof or can there be unique exceptions where horses are concerned.

Your communication addresses that very issue with the horse that was otherwise quiet and trustworthy but on a given moment decided to cause trouble for the other rider. Those circumstances can occur with any horse at any given moment. The better the choice of horses, the less likely for this occurrence. My book From My Hands to Yours is a huge part of the education I would recommend. Virtually very segment required by you is covered on those pages.

In the final analysis, learning to be at one with your horse, confident in your ability to be in the right place at the right time is absolutely essential to the ultimate success of overcoming theses natural fears that are healthy for us to have until we are satisfied that we are in control of virtually all of the potential pit falls that can challenge us on any given day. I think the same thing could be said for learning to ride a motorcycle or even a bicycle.

I think its fair to even suggest that it is not unlike learning to roller skate or even negotiating the streets, on foot, of any given city we might traverse. Please remain in touch and do not hesitate to continue to ask questions of experienced, trustworthy people as to how you might acquire the appropriate education that I have discussed with you in answering your question.

01/22/2014: Dear Monty, I have the most wonderful stallion you could ever want to own. We have been together since he was six months old. I have taught him all he knows and he has responded excellently, winning in the show ring and being the nicest horse to be around for everyone including all his wives! He does however get very stressed when travelling, sweating, kicking and being extremely angry. There is no problem loading him, he is very willing to enter the horsebox, but as soon as the box starts to move he gets himself so worked up that by the time we have reached our destination he is pouring with sweat and has in the past laid down with colic. We have tried all sorts of ways to pen him in the horsebox but nothing seems to work, more space, less space, forwards, backwards. The silly thing is when he gets to the show, if he hasn’t injured himself, he will work and perform like a star!

Monty’s Answer: This question comes up quite often as I travel the world. I would ask you to process my recommendations fully aware of the fact that there are certain regulations within various countries which speak to the concepts I am recommending in a negative way. I fully understand that these regulations have been put forth for what was believed to be good reasons mostly having to do with the transportation of horses to slaughter.

My recommendations have been tried and proven for me over 7 decades and are in no way cruel, dangerous or even uncomfortable for the horses involved. It is my opinion that this behavior was initiated with the given animal being tied in a very close restrictive environment. All horses are claustrophobic and some are more reactive to these conditions than others. This is a condition locked into the DNA.
Recognizing that one needs to comply with the laws of the country in which you are transporting the horse, my recommendations are as follows:

First I suggest that one creates a relationship between the horse involved and another animal. One must consider that a stallion has certain challenges in this area which need to be addressed appropriately.
In the establishment of this relationship creating, I have used ponies, full grown horses, donkeys, mules, dogs, goats, sheep, and even a parrot in one particular case. Somewhere in this mix there is a species that is appropriate even for the stallions that we deal with. It normally requires a minimum of one month to successfully lock in these friendships. Once established they have often lasted a lifetime.

With the bonding complete one should heavily bed a large section of the vehicle concerned. The space should approximate the size of a box stall (loose box) or in other words approximately 2.5 meters by 3-4 meters. It is normal that the maximum width on the roadway is about 2.5 meters. With this accomplished one is prepared to begin the process of habituating the horse to travel.

My recommendation is that one should load the two bonded animals into this space, close them in and offer them a bit of food and water. Allow about half an hour for them to settle into an acceptance of the newly created environment. Gradually one can extend this time to an hour or even two. Take care not to allow too much heat when working in hot climate areas that would generate heat internally.

With these elements accomplished, one can begin to make short trips of less than a half an hour. When returning to the stable area, one should stop, silence the vehicle and offer a bit of food and water and allow the two animals to settle for 20 minutes or so. Subsequent to these efforts, it is advisable to extend the trips and also lengthen the rest period upon returning. Unload only when everything is calm.

It will take about two weeks to progress sufficiently so that one can make a trip to a destination, unload and execute some activity or other and then re-load and return home once again allowing for some rest time before unloading. I have used this method successfully on literally hundreds of horses. Most recently there were some very high level show horses in the United Kingdom that could not compete before these methods were complete.

01/15/2014: I have a 17 year old, 15.2 paint gelding. I have had him 4 years. He has always been a very obedient and pleasant ride, but 3 weeks ago he suddenly did a huge buck out of a trot. He has never done that before. I am 68 years old and it hurt to hit the ground hard! It has shattered my confidence in him. Since then he has been anxious and spooky and I’m afraid he will do it again and I will get seriously hurt. The day before he did this, a new horse had come to my barn and was running around and getting himself and Oscar (my horse) all upset. I asked the owner to take him away and I did not ride for 2 weeks (until 4 days after the other horse had gone). I have now ridden him twice and he is still nervous and spooky and I’m afraid that if I ride him with other horses, he will start bucking again and will learn that he can get me off whenever he wants to. His saddle and bridle have been the same for several years without a problem. Would join up help?
Thanks for any advice you can give me.

Monty’s Answer: Without any doubt Join-Up® cannot hurt. But what I read into your question tends to take me in another direction. At 17 years of age, the behavioral patterns of any horse are well entrenched. I am sure that your horse has met other strange horses during the course of those 17 years. There was apparently no tendency to buck concerning those other experiences. One would have to immediately suspect pain as the contributor to this unacceptable behavior. While I realize that it’s the same saddle, there are more circumstances to consider.

It is well established that the skeletal structure of the spine of Equus changes fairly dramatically in the teenage years. Saddles actually change as well, relative to the spinal processes. In addition accidents, injuries and the saddle pad must be thoroughly investigated in a case such as this. The saddle pad changes dramatically with use. The need for roper protection between saddle and horse is critical. The use of man-made fibers can certainly inflame the magnetic field of the horse’s skin. I would consider all these before a strange horse.

One should realize that this is not only a question for an experienced horseman but a potential project for an experienced veterinarian. One would have to consider close examination of each of the items I mentioned. In addition, x-rays would have to be considered if all of these other points fail to reveal a pain source. X-rays are expensive and at 17 if the problem is not identified with relative ease, there should certainly be a serious thought given to retirement. I have had to make this choice and many other horsemen have had to, too.

1/8/2014: I have 5 horses, aged from 18 months to 9 years. Some I have had for many years, the youngest I have only owned a few short months. And most have never been any place else since arriving here. They live out in 2 groups at the moment as the youngster has some catching up to do food wise with the others, but I aim to have 1 herd in the coming months.

My question is this, how do you think I can help them transition easily into a new home. I am having to move house and will of course be taking them all with me, I want to ensure I help them adapt as calmly as possible?

They will of course all practice loading prior, are all already very familiar with dually and yours and Kelly’s methods of training. Other people who move horses advise to keep them stabled for a few days, but I strongly disagree because that would be very upsetting when they are used to living out and wonder what advice you might offer?

Here they live out 24/7 and are also fed out together. None are currently in work. At the new place they will also live out 24/7 but will have the advantage of direct access to a yard, and once settled will be on a paddock arabise type track system. Who do I move first? The older ones and leave the youngsters to follow? Or the youngsters first and let them get their bearings? Or before I move should I get older and youngsters familiar and move one of each at a time?

I cannot move all 5 together! And think if I did there may be mayhem as they all investigate, but, by introducing them separately am I just prolonging this? Also is there anything else you would advise? Any advantage in bring familiar things? My youngsters have some field toys? Would you have those in the new home before or do you think it’s irrelevant? I don’t want to blow their minds with over stimulation! I just worry and have to think every angle through before I make decisions but this is a new and once off task for me..

I am obviously aware horses move a lot, but for me this is a big worry because I live my life to ensure my animals are as safe and content as can be, this move will allow them live an even more natural life, in a confined 12 acres anyway, and I would like to minimalize stress as much as I can, they are settled here and we all trust each other, but most before coming here had troubled pasts and issues as a result of moving around through dealers yards as well as being stabled for long stints at a time, quite a few had ulcers when they came to me, including the youngest, and two have had laminitis in the past, so I need as stress free as possible for them?

The other idea I had was to bring my two mares who are both leaders, allow them to explore then return home, before we actually move permanently? This would be a bit of an ordeal as it’s 2.5 hours each way traveling but they have both done that journey before. Is that incremental moving? Hehehe…

Monty’s Answer: You have no idea how good it makes me feel to receive question after question where people are becoming far more aware of the needs of their horses. If you only knew what I went through as a child where my father would move truckloads of horses, put them in a field with wire fences and mix up groups with very little concern. I congratulate you for your sensitivity to the needs of your horses.

The advice that you have been given regarding the stabling aspect is not bad advice at all. One thing I should make clear however is that when stabling the freshly moved there should always be a small window between the boxes. This would insure each horse the ability to determine that they are with their friends. This allows them to settle in without the potential of injury while running in a new field.

Should you determine you will put them straight into the field, then I suggest that you first settle in to that field the more senior members, at least two at a time. It should only take a few hours until these older ones have cleared the security of the field and are ready to tell the younger ones what a wonderful place it is. Either of these methods should insure a successful transition.

1/1/2014: I have two very young colts – only 8 months old. What should my expectations be at this age? They are being handled, can touch them all over, lead them, working with picking their hoofs for Farrier, put ropes on/over them, working on having them get used to a tarp and the noise, have put blankets on/off them. Have been introducing them to new things weekly- traffic, noises, tractors, balls, walking them on the road, woods, etc. One concern I have is how attached the colts are to each other. Hard to take one out without the other – they are co-dependent on each other. I would like to raise a nice quarter horse using your gentle methods but would love some ideas to try but don’t want to expect too much too soon. Do you have any suggestions or helpful hints?

I also have older horses but do to the size of the colts I have not put them in with the older horses yet. They can see and touch the other horses through the fence line but have only introduced a very gentle older gelding to them. I don’t want them to get kicked or hurt since they are so small still.

Monty’s Answer: Reading between the lines of your message, I am concerned with one particular area. I didn’t hear a reference to allowing these youngsters to simply be horses. It is important to keep them as safe as possible but just as with children one must not raise them in a padded room or a sterile bubble. The real world is out there waiting for these babies and they must be able to deal with that when their time comes. I applaud your desire to train early with these frightening objects and I can feel your need to do the best job possible. Another concern is that these two individuals can easily become over-bonded. Use my textbook From My Hands To Yours to ensure that they don’t grow up with behavior that expresses insanity when they are separated from one another. I feel certain you will do a good job but read my words as to the caution signs that I give you.

12/25/2013: Good afternoon from the Falkland Islands, I was wondering if you still have to do join up when the foal is already very friendly and attached to you. I tried with my 15 month old who just stood there looking at me when i tried to get him to run around the coral. Nothing I did got him going, I went from smacking the lead across my boots, waterproof coat and on the bucket to whooping at him and still he just stood there. Only when I turned my back to walk off did he follow me! Your feedback would be much appreciated as I do not want to muck up a lovely horse and I have re watched your videos many times, and tried to mimic your movements, but still he will just stand there looking at me like i am a fool, which I must look like to him!

Monty’s Answer: If a few plastic shopping bags attached to a 2 meter pole will not cause the horse to leave you, don’t go any further than that. If your youngster follows you when you walk away you have a form of Join-Up however, it is without the desired communication. I do not suggest any more aggressive actions than the bags. I do not want to muck up your young horse either.

What we must do however is consider all of the rearing procedures of this individual. If he was treated as a member of the family, using anthropomorphic concepts then it’s possible you have the closest thing to an orphan on your hands. I consider an over-humanized young horse to be a far greater challenge for the future than the wildest you can come up with.

Don’t hesitate to communicate again so that I can be better advised regarding the early life of this individual.

12/18/2013: I am writing in connection with your great book Horse Sense for People. This book has opened my eyes. I am just 17 years old, but I was really excited by it. I think that is very helpful for everyone in their life.

I love horses too much so I was interested in your story about mare Mustang. I have never heard of it. I have a mare too. But she is so spoiled. She is 8 years old and she is great jumper but I have one problem with her. She is so fast.

I really hate when someone is just pulling reins. I tried to work with my sitting position or doing some tricks but it did not help. She loves jumping but she is very big and sometimes I am very scared. I hope it will be possible for you to help me.

And I am so sorry for my English I am not English speaker. I am from the Czech Republic. But one day I want to visit your farm. You are great man.

Monty’s Answer: It is my opinion that we should strive to become good horsemen by consistently engaging in educational efforts. Furthermore, I believe that we should strive to bring what the horses teach us to our relationships human to human. I sincerely believe that we are more effective utilizing calm and patient methods whether we are dealing with horses or people.

My recommendation to you is that you seek assistance in learning breathing techniques that are consistent with those utilized by practitioners of yoga, acting singing and public speaking. The science of breathing is critically important to successfully maintaining low adrenalin levels. When we learn to breathe properly many physiological factors occur that increase our chances to stay calm, be patient, and assess any given situation with a cool analytical approach.

Seek out an acting coach or a yoga teacher, have them read your question and my response and you will probably get the desired instruction. Advise them that you wish to learn diaphragmatic breathing. If they are not familiar with that art form seek out someone who is. When one accomplishes these recommendations, remaining calm and patient under fire will be far easier. Learn to relax, learn to breathe and come to Flag Is Up Farms!

12/11/2013: Please tell me the best way to get eye ointment into my horse’s eye without poking her eye with the applicator.

Monty’s Answer: At the risk of repeating myself after last week’s Question and Answer (about asking a filly to stand still for the vet as he gives her a shot), I will gladly repeat myself and I am happy you are asking because there are so many advantages to the simple training to stand still and trust the horse handler.

The Dually Halter is, first, your ‘best friend’ in this situation. View the video on how to use the Dually halter, http://www.montyroberts.com/shop/equipment/dually-halter-pony/ over and over again. I emphasize that you pay particular attention to the use of the Dually to cause your horse to stand still. I have just completed two and a half months of touring where standing still was the most critical issue with the horses.

Once you have accomplished the standing still procedure, I suggest that you fabricate an appropriate sized chute. This item is often called a crush but it is simply made of wood or metal and can be just wide enough for your pony to comfortably stand in. I just made a very effective chute in England by using a 5 bar gate and placing it about 28 inches from a wall. This would allow access to the near side of your horse.

The filly eventually stood, allowing stroking and plastic bags, neither of which was possible throughout her 18 months. She has continued to improve with a student of mine whom I am speaking with about every 3 days. With your horse comfortably standing, approach the outer corner of the eye to insert medication there. Ideally if the horse moves, you won’t be pulling the applicator across the eye. After inserting the medication, carefully close the eye lid in order to insure the medication covers the entire eye area.

One could get great benefit from my From My Hands to Yours textbook in the Dually chapter. In addition there are some very good lessons on my Equus Online University on gentling with a chute. Mind you, the chute in the lessons would be quite expensive because it is meant to be used for many years and with full sized terrorists. The outcome is virtually always astonishingly effective when used properly.

12/4/2013: I recently acquired a year-old Newfoundland Pony filly. This is a sensible working breed that has evolved over centuries in Newfoundland but this filly is quite self-possessed. When she got her first shots last month she reacted quite strongly – there was a lot of squirming and a little bit of pony wrestling in the alleyway. I tried taking her up to her older companion’s box stall door for comfort but it didn’t help much.

The second set was, if anything, worse. Before I could say anything, the vet did the tap tap on her butt and the filly exploded. She was insulted and very reactive. We did manage the job but there has to be a better way. She is due for more shots this month! This pony has been raised by experienced breeders who employ natural horsemanship techniques. She has certainly never been abused. She leads well and seems well socialized.

The vet suggested doing a systematic desensitization using treats. I don’t normally feed horses by hand but tried this for a few days. I can touch the filly’s butt but anything more than that elicits angry tail swishing and circling. So I searched clicker training and horses and discovered your site. Agreed – treats are a bad route. But what is possible with a pony this young? She quickly becomes defensive and that says there is a bit of disrespect going on. I have raised a number of Warmbloods in past years and never had this problem. It isn’t as easy working with a baby brought up by someone else.

Monty’s Answer: It’s hard for me to remember a question coming through that has an easier fix than this one. I say this because of the fact that it’s a pony rather than a full size horse. With regard to the treats with or without the clicking the only method that would be worse is to beat the pony with clubs. Should treats and or clicking take the place of good horsemanship you will have problems with this pony for the rest of its life.

The Dually Halter is, first, your ‘best friend’ in this situation. View the video on how to use the Dually halter, http://www.montyroberts.com/shop/equipment/dually-halter-pony/
over and over again. I would imagine that the green (extra small) Dually is the appropriate size. It will go up to 12 hands plus. I emphasize that you pay particular attention to the use of the Dually to cause your pony to stand still. I have just completed two and a half months of touring where standing still was the most critical issue with the horses.

Once you have accomplished the standing still procedure, I suggest that you fabricate an appropriate sized chute. This item is often called a crush but it is simply made of wood or metal and can be just wide enough for your pony to comfortably stand in. I just made a very effective chute in England by using a 5 bar gate and placing it about 28 inches from a wall. This would allow access to the near side of your pony.

The one that I made in England was for a Thoroughbred filly, 18 months old, standing about 15.2 hands. She was delivered to her new owner with a letter of caution that she was an absolute killer. I was able to stroke her and even place a plastic bag on a stick over her back after about 5 minutes of her squealing and kicking out with both hind feet. I used a stable mat behind her to protect the hind legs during her fits of resistance.

The filly eventually stood, allowing stroking and plastic bags, neither of which was possible throughout her 18 months. She has continued to improve with a student of mine whom I am speaking with about every 3 days. One can practice these procedures in your chute several times before the vet arrives. Tapping, stroking, and rubbing over the entire body are advisable, veterinarian or no veterinarian.

One could get great benefit from the From My Hands to Yours textbook in the Dually chapter. In addition there are some very good lessons on my Equus Online University on gentling with a chute. Mind you, the chute in the lessons would be quite expensive because it is meant to be used for many years and with full sized terrorists. The outcome is virtually always astonishingly effective when used properly.

11/27/2013: I am doing an essay and talk at school about the use / misuse of spurs. Would you be able to tell me what your opinion is about them and maybe give me some tips? I would like to see them banned but need to convince the rest of my class, many of whom ride, about this. One of my paragraphs is about how you treat and train horses in a good way.

Monty’s Answer: Whips and spurs by themselves can do no harm; it’s the hands and feet that hold them that do that. Spurs have been commonly employed in procedures whereby you are asking the horse to move forward. But, once you begin to dictate to the horse, demanding obedience or causing pain, you will most likely have to employ strong-arm tactics throughout the life of the horse. I believe that if you can begin early in the horse’s life to communicate and negotiate, requesting rather than demanding, you will instill an attitude of cooperation that will serve you well.

It is my belief that it is not necessary to use spurs early in the training procedure. The softer you can be to gain the desired results, the better. Should you wish to use spurs later, you should remember that they are for communication only, not to inflict pain. The spur should be looked upon as an instrument that puts your contact point closer to the horse for better communication. To ensure that I never cause pain, my spurs are covered with rubber, but the leg without spurs is far better in the early stages of schooling.

Into-pressure is a response that the horseman needs to deal with when educating a horse to accept communication sent through the legs. There are many ways to initiate the process of requesting your horse to yield to your legs or heels but one should be aware that yielding to pressure in an into-pressure animal must be taught as it is not natural for the horse. Good luck on your essay and talk. Let us know how it goes.

11/20/2013: Just a quick question, you talk a lot about how to start babies and how to work with problem horses, so where do I start with a horse that was “broke” the traditional way and only has some minor problems? Example: walks over a tarp like it is nothing but won’t go over a bridge, stuff like that. These horses supposedly know what they are doing and are “good” riding horses but then balk or spook at what would be nothing to us or perhaps are willful and pushy. Should we, as their new owners, go over the whole course from the start as if they knew nothing? Or should we ride them until we find out each problem and then work those problems individually?

Monty’s Answer: It seems to me that your mind is taking you to a place where you feel this is slightly unique for me. Your question represents about 80-90% of the horses I work with. You gave me two alternative solutions and I suggest to you that the answer is yes. What I mean is ‘Yes, you start all over again’ and ‘Yes, you work with individual problems as you meet them.’

You failed however to give me a third and what I consider to be the most important solution. This one is to get an education on the use of my concepts so that the competence with which you execute your procedures to be so high as to be effective.

Never before in the history of horsemanship have there been more opportunities for an education than there is today. My books, my Q&As in this Ask Monty and particularly my Equus Online University are direct offerings from me to assist you in tour education. Fifty-six certified instructors around the world are conducting courses to assist you and my own school in California stands ready to serve should you desire.

Competence in dealing with the problems that you outline will not fall from the sky and enter your brain like an email. I often say there is no such thing as teaching, only learning. Effective education occurs through intrinsic learning where the student consciously pulls information into their brain. It is not the obligation of a teacher to push information into a brain. It is the obligation of the student to want it and actively invite it into their brain.

All over the world there are people who enter the world of owning and training horses with exactly the same questions that you have outlined here. Many do not respect the need for an education. In my opinion this is the primary reason that emergency room doctors will tell you that horse related accidents are common place in the world of health care.

Please choose to accept our invitation to adequately educate yourself in how to meet the horse’s needs so the horse can meet yours.

11/13/13: Thank you for your recent demo I attended in England. I am very interested in your latest work with horses and war veterans. It seems every time I attend a demo of yours, you have found a new way to put horses back into people’s lives, which is great. What is missing for you to accomplish?

Monty’s Answer: Winning the lottery! I have never purchased a lottery ticket and I don’t intend to buy one. But this is my way of telling you that no one has the right to have so much good fortune as I have had. Anything that comes to me now is well into the bonus category. I cannot predict nor should I expect good fortune to follow me at a pace that I have come to enjoy.

It is time to count my blessings continue my work and hope for the bonus of my work being accepted by ever greater numbers of people who agree that horses are entitled to more than they have experienced from humans in the past. I would love to see my work move to such a level that it is considered the norm rather than something alternative.

11/6/2013: It would be my aspiration to follow in your footsteps and create a career of travel, a large ranch and lots of horses to work with. Would you recommend it? How is your life nowadays?

Monty’s Answer: Many people would consider my existence to be complicated, demanding and downright miserable. I happen to travel with business men all the time who state that they hate their job. They say that the complexities of travel these days reduce their quality of life unacceptably. I listen carefully.

Most of the time I throw in a line that goes something like this: “Perhaps if you really love the job you’re doing the travel wouldn’t be so painful”. It is my distinct opinion that the greatest art form connected with enjoying our lives is that we find something we like to do and at the same time we are able to make a living doing it.

One of my greatest challenges is leaving Flag Is Up Farms for any trip. It is a major downside in my existence to spend between 50-60 days out of each year at a paradise that I was able to create. I am answering this question as I am driving to Los Angeles airport. I am going away from Flag Is Up Farms. Woe is me.

Its late September and October is the glorious month in our part of the world. It’s a terrible thing and I feel real pain because of leaving Shy Boy and Nice Chrome and all the rest of the horses. What about LeRoy the deer and his entire family group of 50. What about Pat and each of the wonderful people that make up that make up the staff that runs Flag Is Up.

Well, it is sheer torture to send me down the road and away from all of these wonderful friends. I feel a sharp pain when I think about 250,000 trees changing color throughout the month of October. I know that each and every one of you feels sorry for me and wonder how I can cope.

Let me tell you where I am headed. I will get on a flight to London Heathrow and tomorrow morning I will wake up over Scotland landing at Heathrow mid-day. I will be taken directly to Polhampton near Newbury in South Central England. This is a facility for the rearing of the Thoroughbred babies of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II.

My task will be to work with Rachel Murat and her staff to better understand the needs of these youngsters while learning to partner up with human beings just to be lead from one place to another. The Queen might drop by and we will probably have a discussion about my work and why I think it’s important.

On the 28th of September I will be taken to my first public demonstration of the fall tour. There are 10 venues virtually sold out as I prepare to travel. Somewhere around 10,000 attendees will watch me work with approximately 50 horses requiring various procedures. Imagine the kids and their questions.

On the third of November I will be taken to the final day of the Horse of the Year Show Championships in Birmingham. I am to be honored there for my work with last year’s supreme champion ridden horse. Pearly King won this honor and then went on to be named the supreme champion of the finals for the entire European region.

It will be such a joy to experience this recognition. At the conclusion of the show that night, I will get about 3 hours sleep and be driven to Manchester where I will board a plane for Helsinki, Finland. It is said that approximately 6000 people will attend a demonstration evening at large coliseum in that city.

There will be about four events before the 11th of October. It is then that I will be taken to Sandringham smack in the middle of England’s east coast. Sandringham has been a horse facility for approximately 300 years. It is there that I will be starting (first saddle and rider) on about 40 of the Queen’s next crop of Thoroughbreds preparing for racing.

The Queen is likely to be at Sandringham nearly every day. We will have ample time to meet and discuss and assess each individual. There is hardly a more involved owner on the face of the earth than Queen Elizabeth II. Please ask yourself “Is Monty having fun yet?”

After Sandringham, I am off to finish the balance of my fall tour. We will complete 6 more venues before the second of November when I will fly to Bremen Germany to start the entire crop of Thoroughbreds for Gestüt Fährhof. This will be my 22nd year of acting in that capacity. Consider the fun that will be!

While there I will be getting full reports on the incredible record being produced by Silvano. This is a young stallion by Lomitas, a famous horse that introduced me to the Jacobs family. I purchased Silvano’s mother (dam) in America so I feel like a grandfather. Silvano is rewriting the record books for Thoroughbred industry of South Africa.

Reports have come through that Silvano has produced seven group one winners in 2013 (an incredible achievement). I started Silvano and was part of the team directing his career where he won 3 million euros on five continents. What a joy it will be to reflect on the achievements of this wonderful individual.

On the 19th of November I fly back to England where I will revisit the work we are doing with the Queen’s horses and assess their learning curve accomplished during my three weeks in Germany. On about the 24th of November, off I go to Washington DC where I change planes and spend a night flying to Sao Paulo Brazil.

There I will meet with my daughter Debbie who will be assisting me in the execution of four clinics held on two successive weekends. We will be doing some private work there and attending a wedding of my incredibly successful student Eduardo Moreira who has been responsible for blanketing Brazil with my concepts.

We will be doing book signings there as he has had two bestselling books in that country, each of which sites my work as changing his life and creating a whole new mind set for removing violence from the truing of horses. Try to convince me that this won’t be fun.

The departure date from Brazil has not yet been established but is likely to be around the 9th of December. Upon arriving back in California we have a military Horse Sense and Soldiers PTSD clinic slated to begin on the 13th of December. These clinics have been tremendously gratifying as they are allowing retuning combat veterans to heal through trust.

Between the 15th of December and Christmas I will be working with horses on the farm including the Willing Partners™ horses which provide me with an enormous amount of pleasure. I am going to stop now as it ends 2013, and because my readers are either asleep or too tired to deal with anything more.

Please be advised that the challenges of traveling are far outweighed by the joy of my work once I arrive at the various destinations. Not one of my readers should feel sorry for me. I am the luckiest man in the world.

10/30/2013: I read in the original Chicken Soup for the Soul book the story of the paper you wrote when you were young about following your dream. How could you write an article with so many details?

Editor’s Note: You can order a copy of Chicken Soup for the Soul by contacting admin@montyroberts.com or calling +1 805 688 6288

Monty’s Answer: The premise of your question is to presuppose that I was very young when I created the plan that was a part of the original book Chicken Soup for the Soul. Actually I was in my mid-teens which meant that I had been traveling all over the United States in competition on horses for well over 10 years.

While on these journeys, I was visiting equestrian centers breeding farms and privately owned horse-oriented hobby farms in over 20 states. My interest in the welfare of horses was foremost in my mind so it was natural for me to pay close attention to stable designs and overall husbandry plans.

One must remember that I attended classes at Hartnell College of Agriculture at the age of 14. This is when most youngsters are entering High School. My home school background had me several years ahead of students my age and so I began to study animal husbandry well ahead of the average student.

From an experience standpoint, I was quite old and I literally felt qualified to plan a world-class horse facility in my mid-teens. The fact is I did draw the plans and then some 21 years later I built the farm that still stands today as one of the world’s outstanding horse facilities. These are simply the facts.

Please do not consider me some kind of genius because I’m not. Circumstances pressed me to concentrate in a profound way on my life’s goal. It wasn’t only my father’s brutality but also the normal violent level of training horses that almost everyone has witnessed that pushed me onward to reach for answers on how to better meet the needs of these creatures that I admired so much.

Mr. Lyman Fowler was the teacher in question. He asked us to write a paper outlining our vision for our individual future. He told us to be realistic. I remember that he said “I don’t want a lot of papers expressing the desire to be President of the United States.” He asked us to keep it realistic.

With that in mind I outlined my dream. In addition I included my farm plans. He marked it with a huge red F (failing grade) and made an example to the class of why he felt I had not been realistic. He said he knew my parents and that there was no way I could accomplish my goal financially speaking. I was devastated.

He indicated that the average salary in the US was $6000 per year. He estimated that my dream and my plan would require millions. He told me that he did not want to give me an F and he asked me to take my plan back home and rework it and turn it in again. I took it home. I considered changes and decided to leave it as originally done.

It seems to me that it was about 3 weeks when our grades came in the mail. I got an A in the course. He clearly did not stand by his F on the paper. I suppose this stiffened my spine and caused an even greater determination to continue my quest for a greater level of respect for the equine species.

It was 30 years after that when a retired Lyman Fowler brought a large grip of his friends to Flag Is Up Farms, stood them on the hill at our house and asked them to influence all teachers to never put a cap on the aspirations of a student. He openly admitted that he was wrong to discourage me from dreaming what appeared to be the impossible.

10/23/2013: I am making a life changing decision to train horses for a living. When did you decide working with horses was to be your career?

Monty’s Answer: There is no way to pinpoint my decision to work with horses. The fact is that I cannot remember a moment in my life when I was not dedicated to work with horses. It has been my obsession since well before my fourth year and I know I was less than 10 years old when I decided that my life’s goal was to leave the world a better place than I found it, for horses and for people too.

10/16/2013: Mr. Roberts, you are the man who listens to horses. Do you remember when did this passion for animals begin?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for writing and for your interest in my story. No, I don’t remember when the passion began. I remember the first feelings that I had for horses. And as near as I can make out, I was about three years old. I could not have been four because I began to enter competitions at the age of 4 years and one month. I know that there was a span of time prior to that that I already felt a passion for horses.

It is my sincere belief that my father’s treatment of horses drove me to feel the need to protect them from a very early age. Looking back on it I can honestly say that if any good could come from the brutal way that my father dealt with horses, it is that it set me on a course to dedicate my life to removing violence from the training of these horses.

10/9/2013: I have read your books and even conducted Join-Up successfully. I respect you and your concepts with extremely sincere conviction. I know that you mean well with every recommendation that you make. It is my firm belief that you have an open mind and that you do not wish to impose your discoveries on anyone else without thorough justification.

With these thoughts in mind I would like to call to your attention that there are many cultures globally that believe that the earth is far less than 50 million years old making it impossible for horses to have existed for that length of time. Since none of us know for sure, wouldn’t it be better if you altered your statements to allow for the potential of a slightly different calendar regarding the existence of the earth, the human species and the animals that you have spent a lifetime studying? Please do not regard this as a serious criticism, only as a suggestion.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your question. It is a pivotal entry on this huge list of questions that are coming through weekly. I especially thank you for it because it proves that I am still learning. I will start my answer by saying you are absolutely right. No one of us knows for certain much of anything of what happened even tens of thousands of years ago. In addition to that fact it is also true that each of us has the right to our own beliefs and that no one should attempt to impose their will as if they were the know all and be all.

This issue is quite similar to another one which I learned only about a year and a half ago. As it turns out I had been going around the world quite pleased with results I was getting with remedial horses. I would often say “Wow! Look at him! He is really trying for me.” Over and over I indicated that horses were trying for me. I was absolutely convinced that they were and the results of any given session tended to bear me out. In no way did I think I was breaking any rules or making statements that were against scientific evidence.

At a demonstration, I was confronted by a group of scientists who indicated to me that they believe they have proof positive that no horse can ‘try’ for any predator including the human being. I knew too of the four scientists involved and they are quite well known with their work with equine studies. I had a long think about this through the balance of that night and it occurred to me that there was a simple solution. Subsequent to that conversation I have simply referred to the behavior in question as follows. “This horse appears to be trying for me.”

The change here is extremely subtle but embodies an admission that I can’t know for sure that the horse is trying for me. If this is true then I have no right to impose my original statement on any student of equine behavior. The same is true for your question. I have given it consideration and from this point forward I will change my statements even more significantly than my first example. Since there is an element of conjecture within the scientific community about the origin and timing of the existence of horses, my future statement will be as follows.

“If one is to accept the general scientific data produced by carbon dating then one can assume that the first Eohippus (Dawn Horse) fossils date back to a time approximately 50 million years ago. Similarly if one accepts Lucy from Olduvai Gorge as the first Hominid, then we would accept approximately 3.2 million years as how long humans have walked this earth. Accepting this data would indicate that horses lived on earth for 47 million years without the presence of human beings. There are certain people who believe in different time element.”

My conversation would continue with the fact that I gladly defer to any belief system that would argue with what the general scientific community accepts regarding carbon dating. It is not terribly important to me the exact number of years. It is my belief that everyone will agree, horses have been on earth for a long time. I think that most people will agree that there was a significant period of time between the presence of both species and the domestication of horses. I thank you for the opportunity to visit this phenomenon.

10/2/2013: On my way of exploring every part of the horse industry I have been studying the concepts of Carolyn Resnick, a Californian trainer who does liberty training. In her books and her videos she explains how she grew up watching horses in the wild and makes an interesting claim: lead horses always make horses that are lower in the pecking order going in front of them when day travel in the wild. She says a lead horse never walks up in front. In the world of so-called Natural Horsemanship you always ask the horse to go behind you or with its nose next to the human’s shoulder, because horses should learn to follow the leader. So, what is right? In which order do wild horses travel? Would be great if you could clarify that for me. Thank you for everything you do to the world of horses!
~ Florian Oberparleiter

Monty’s Answer:

Dear Florian:

In all of the Hollywood movies the lead horse of the mustangs was a stallion. That seems logical because they are bigger and more beautiful and they make a great fuss when other males come near their harem. I have no idea what Ms. Resnick sites as the leader of the herd. It is my observation that it is virtually always a mature aging female. This question teases my mind to remember the movements of these individuals as they live in the open spaces of the wild.

It seems that I am spending more and more time, when I am home, with the deer that constitute the family group living in the wild near my home. What occurs to me is that we seldom see family groups lined up and marching as migratory animals. We more often see a large family group operating in nearly a circle and moving more like a school of fish, first one direction and then another to seek out grazing, shade, water or safety. It is not generally a line.

The lead mare is most often near the front, but on one side of the group or the other. She will generally dictate the turns and sways of the herd. It is my observation that each of the family members know where she is at all times and they tend to follow her movements whether or not she is actually out in front. I have always said that these lead matriarchs will generally be positioned so that they are between their family and what they perceive to be any danger.

The stallion who claims to own the harem will, for the most part, be stationed somewhere near the rear, generally out to one side and often on higher ground than the bulk of the herd. His responsibility seems to me to be to protect his harem and not to be considered a leader. He will follow the lead mare, just the same as the other family members do. Ms. Resnick may agree or disagree with my observations and that’s fair enough, but it is how I see it.

It seems to me that the deer are an even better window to what the horses do because their actions are simply amplified when it comes to the safety needs of the family group. The flight tendencies of the deer are multiples of what the horse is. This means they do the same but only more so. Ms. Resnick indicates that the leader never walks in front and ‘never’ is a very big word. I have often seen the leaders go in front. It is true however, that it is a small percentage of the time.

I have never brought myself to conclude that the leader actually made horses go in front that were lower in the pecking order. I simply don’t believe that happens. It is clear that lower pecking order horses go in front for a high percentage of the time they are in motion, but I do not believe they are made to do so. It seems to me that the leader chooses the direction, disciplines the adolescents but rules the family in a rather soft and non-violent manner.

It is my opinion that follow-up is an expression of a horse desiring to follow a human who is actually making decisions that are extremely similar to those made of the matriarchal leader of a wild horse herd. I have often said that where horsemen are concerned God needed to create two life spans. The first one was to learn the necessary concepts for dealing with horses and the second for attempting to pass these concepts on to the next generation.

9/25/2013: I have a yearling that is a sweetie in the box [box stall] however when you go up to him outside in what I would term “the open air”, he tends to shy and bolt away from you as if he has been hit. He has never been hit or mistreated in any way. I had read where you used plastic bags on a stick but I feel that if I would approach him with plastic bags on a stick, it only makes him worse. When he decides to become spooky he means it in every serious way. Please help me if you can.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your question. You bring clarity to the fact that I need to be as specific as possible in every video or writing that I disseminate. It is not that I go at spooky horses with bags on a stick. It is that I incrementally work on their spooky tendencies until I can approach them with bags on a stick and even casting plastic tarpaulins all over them. You are absolutely right. If you took your yearling to the problem area and simply invaded him with the plastic bags on a stick it probably would make him worse.

Please be aware that none of my plastic bag work is attempted until I have done a good Join-Up with my horse and then accomplished the basic elements of accepting the Dually Halter, utilizing each of the facets of cooperation that the Dually halter is designed to accomplish. Once your yearling has learned to cooperate with the Dually Halter, then blasting away becomes far less likely to occur. Join-Up, in and of itself, is the process of the horse voluntarily choosing to be with you instead of away from you.

The next step is to begin your work in an area most comfortable for him. Start with just a stick. Pass it all around him and cause him to take it at various speeds, coming in to any part of his body. After that, add a small plastic bag and bind it down with rubber bands so that it is barely larger than the stick. Repeat the process until your yearling can accept the stick with the small plastic bag which will tend to make some crinkly sound which will add to the challenge. Then begin to open the bag but very incrementally.

Soon after these procedures are completed you will be able to swing open fluttering plastic bags all over his body while he is still in his comfortable box stall. Subsequent to this achievement one should lead the yearling to a relatively small well fenced area with good footing under your yearling. Start the process once more in the less comfortable area until you can receive the same acceptance level that you achieved in his comfort zone (his stall). When he can take the flying bags in the second area, it’s time to move on.

If you have a slightly larger area with good footing and lots of daylight, it is preferable. One should attempt at all times to cause the stimulus (bags or stick) to remain as close to the horse as possible when negative behavior is evident. Remove the stimulus only when your horse is exhibiting positive behavior. This will encourage acceptance and relaxation. It is amazing how a knowing horseman can cause the spookiest individual you can imagine to accept these awful shopping bags in a very short period of time.

While I am often required to produce a massive change in 30 minutes at my public demonstrations, many of my students can achieve these results in a matter of 2-3 sessions even when professional horsemen may label the horse impossible to deal with. Whether the subject horse was treated abusively or not, we still have this behavior to deal with and I have found that these procedures have been extremely effective with overwhelmingly dangerous horses that have a list of victims to their credit.

In conclusion, I would like to state that my Equus Online University has many lessons that literally show these procedures on video. Many horsemen find it easier to learn from the images rather than the words. In addition to the Online University, my textbook From My Hands to Yours, Second Edition, has a chapter on dealing with a spooky horse. It is probably far more informative than this answer. Good luck and please keep us informed as events progress. We want to help until each problem is thoroughly solved.

9/18/2013: What do you think are the biggest misunderstandings people have about horses?

Monty’s Answer: It is my opinion that the greatest misunderstanding that human beings have about horses is that they need to be educated, trained, controlled and gentled through the use of violence. I define violence as the production of pain administered by the human for the purpose of altering behavior.

9/11/2013: I saw on Facebook where you worked with horses and combat veterans in Australia. I would be very interested to hear your comments about how the work went with the veterans there.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for you asking. My work with the combat veterans turned out to be my most gratifying experience where combat veterans are concerned in my on the road demonstrations. I must say that there was significant early push back suggesting to me that Australia would not receive this type of demonstration very well. The fact is it was exactly the reverse.

Some will know that I tried to do a survey at the conclusion of each demonstration. I attempt to ask a cross section of the audience to answer one simple question “What segment did you like best in the demonstration?” The format on this trip was an all day schedule with nine sections. When the survey was completed five had chosen a remedial starter and 25 had chosen the demonstration with two combat veterans.

Never before have I experienced such an overwhelming majority of people choosing one segment. I had some very good horses. My work was successful and I thought the outcome was impressive but seven segments received no votes at all. This is an unheard of outcome for my survey attempts. Most people said there was not a dry eye in the house.

As you well know, I have been through it all. I have seen and heard just about everything one could imagine in the course of my 78 years. But when our Join-Up horse came to a severally damaged Kevin I was stirred to my soul with emotion. Kevin is in his early 60s and returned from Vietnam about 40 years ago. His personal life has been an extreme challenge but he said that this moved him like nothing else ever has.

Letters and messages keep coming through about how well this demonstration was received. It certainly tells me that more needs to be done and that we need to enter this arena more deeply than we ever have. There will be the need to train individuals in this therapeutic effort. Clearly they need to know horses and psychology as well. I am ready to go to work.

09/04/2013: I work with autistic children (early intervention) so my clients are between 1yr and 9 yrs old. I teach applied behavioral analysis (aba). I also have two beautiful girls (horses) one rising two now and one companion pony. I have found that our "therapies " are very similar, except for the eye contact part. eg: when the child isn’t doing what you’ve asked, you give no eye contact, ignore etc, when child is trying to do what you’ve asked, you give eye contact and attention (reward etc).

The reward part is the same although you have to find the right currency as some autistics don’t really care about social reward. Anyway re: distraction, I present choices eg: try ‘task 1’ or try ‘task 2’, both scary for the child, but one less so, the child ‘has a go at the task that causes less fear, (realized it wasn’t so bad, gains confidence) and will more willingly do the other task . They start to trust that you won’t hurt them ever and they gain more confidence.

It’s a beautiful thing to see a child blossom into a person who will give things a go, with confidence, not fear. Also all this has to be done without a lot of high emotion (adrenalin). I train the parents to ’talk to the fridge ’ :-), when they are getting too emotional, as an example of how they need to be behaving when child is not behaving how they would like (tantrums).

My filly is quite a high adrenalin girl and jumps at pretty much anything (bolts around the paddock when a plane flies over) so I am being extra slow with her and picking days when she is less jumpy to work with her, so as to get more positive experiences. She’s put herself through fences running from kangaroos etc.

We’ve done a few Join-Ups. She seems to need a lot more reassurance with things. But becoming more confident eg: came up when I was mowing the lawn to sniff at the mower (while it was running!) without running away in fear after :-) Thanks for being who you are :-) you methods have helped me so much.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your communication. Each word resonates with me as I compare it to the work I am doing both with horses and children. One area that interests me greatly is the eye contact as reward. My work with horses indicates that eye contact means go away. It relates, I believe, to the fact that predators use direct eye contact. I believe horses are rewarded by the removal of eye contact.

It seems to me that most people with autism respond very similarly to flight animals. My time with Temple Grandin would strongly verify this observation. I suppose it’s possible that some people with autism like eye contact and would consider it a reward, but that has not been my experience. Apart from these variations, it sounds to me like each of us is having fun analyzing the communication efforts of animals and humans.

08/28/2013: Summer trail riding has been great this year except one aspect I hope you can help me with. My horse doesn’t refuse to cross streams or water but he sure can JUMP them. How can I train him to just walk through the water instead of leaping it? Most places the water is no more than ankle deep. He doesn’t seem afraid but sort of dainty about getting his feet wet. Another annoying development is that the other horses in our group are starting to do the same thing after us on the trail.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your question. This is a problem that is very universal in the trail riding community. I would like to set your mind on a phrase that I often use when working with remedial problems. It goes like this “When you are doing your work right, repetition is your greatest friend. When you’re doing your work wrong repetition is your greatest enemy.”

The Dually Halter is definitely your greatest friend when it comes to this problem. I suggest that you create a small water obstacle at home somewhere. First, school your horse to the Dually Halter to the extent that he or she is very sensitive to stopping and backing up as you work the halter. Follow the DVD as closely as possible.

Stay safe while approaching the water, but be prepared to stop your horse if there is a tendency to jump. It is a good idea to walk your horse through the water many times before increasing the size of the obstacle. It is also helpful to school your horse to back through the water as well as walking forward. This is a powerful lesson.

Once your horse is walking and backing through the water with confidence it is best to lead your horse from the top of another quiet animal, preferably a gelding, stopping your student horse whenever there is the tendency to jump. Once you have these procedures in place one can saddle and attempt to get a quiet walk through while mounted.

Once accomplished then begin to increase the size of your water obstacle and after that change locations to a more typical trail riding environment. By this time, you will have habituated your horse to stopping, thinking it through and then walking quietly through the water. At this point change locations often.

8/21/13: I noticed that sometimes you use plastic bags to desensitize a horse to accept the bags and yet sometimes you shake the bags to make the horse move around the pen. Isn’t that confusing?

Monty’s Answer: Often this question comes regarding my use of the plastic shopping bags on a stick to cause the horse to move over a tarpaulin on the ground. The question is “Are you not giving the horse mixed messages? Isn’t it true that you are saying that he should be frightened of the plastic on the one hand and on the other hand he shouldn’t be frightened?” The answer is “No that is not true.”

If done properly, one uses the plastic bag on a stick simply as another stimulus. At the conclusion of the exercise I will continue to use the plastic bags on a stick until the horse is completely comfortable with that procedure also. Using the plastic bags while the horse is frightened of them falls into the psychological category of “distractibility”.

If one was going to shake the bag at the horse anyway, why not use the energy of his fear to interrupt an already established phobia. There was a time when I didn’t accept this either. But in the last 25 years or so I have come to learn a great deal about the use of distractibility in many forms. Perhaps more questions will come through regarding distractibility.

8/14/2013: How can I establish where the horse’s balance point is in order to change his direction in the pen?

Monty’s Answer: Internationally this is called the driving line and herein we will use that interchangeably with balance point or balance line. To identify its location anatomically, there is an invisible line that circles the horse, similar to where the girth would go and up on the dorsal processes.

If the wither itself was a mountain then it would be at the foot of the mountain. In front of this driving line are the shoulders, neck and head which control direction. Behind this line is where power comes from, or the ‘engine’.

Pushing your ‘energy at the engine’, or the hind end of the horse, will cause the horse to go faster. If we push our energy on that invisible line, or in front of it, we tend to take away the open space the horse has in front of it and this will slow the horse down. If we push our energy using our body language in front of the driving line, the horse will most likely change directions or stop.

Timing and positioning of your own body is very important here. With your own horse, play with these positions and adjust them to get the desired effect from your horse. We want to be very black and white making the direction we want the horse to go a very easy choice for the horse. Start by moving your horse forward in the round pen, remaining out of Kick Zone*.

You should be near the middle of the pen, with about 6 meters between yourself and the horse. Being too close can also cause the horse to stop and be unwilling to go forward. Push your belt buckle/belly button at the horse’s ribs. Use your energy and your long line to influence the horse to move forward.

If the horse stops moving or changes direction adjust your position so your belt buckle/belly button is pointing even further toward the back of the horse. Use your energy and intention and long line if you need it to influence the horse to go forward. The most common mistakes are being too close to the horse and pointing your belt buckle/belly button too close to the front of the horse.

When you are comfortable driving your horse forward and the horse is comfortable moving forward, think about changing direction. Take a few steps forward to place your body in front of the horse’s shoulder. We think about this like ‘cutting the top off of the circle we are walking in the middle of the pen’.

Extend your hand that is now holding the long line coils to well in front of the horse to help you influence the horse to change direction. We like to think about pushing the energy at the horse’s eye to change its direction. Again you should be about 6 meters from your horse and out of the Kick Zone.

As you play with your horse, you will find how sensitive he is and how much energy and intention you will need to move him forward and change direction.

*Kick Zone: The area around the back end of the horse that extends out from the rib cage about 1.5 meters (depending on the size of the horse) around his hind end to the other side of the horse at his other side at his rib cage.

8/1/2013: My question is regarding a teaching technique. I am an archery instructor through USA Archery and am certified to teach instructors how to instruct. I have been doing this since 1995 so have a fair amount of experience with both instructors training as well as working with students. One thing we try to emphasize is avoidance of negative wording i.e. saying don’t, no, never etc. Instead we tell our students what we want them to do. This avoids ambiguity and improves transfer of idea. just a thought.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for this question. If one studies the work of a renowned psychologist like Dr. William Miller, it will be evident that these gifted people constantly come up with unique procedures which improve communication with students or, in fact, anyone with whom you wish to exchange ideas. Dr. Miller is the first professor I heard use the term P.I.C.N.IC.. Perhaps you have heard the term before and maybe even from me. I believe in the message of P.I.C.N.I.C.

Positive Instant Consequences and Negative Instant Consequences: the definitive word here is instant. I often say that while negative consequences are essential for the student to receive instantly after negative actions. More importantly however it is even more critical that the student receives positive consequences instantly after expressing positive actions. It is my opinion that the brain is far more open to learning in a positive environment.

It seems to me that we are speaking on the same side of this issue. When working with horses I attempt at all times to be vigilant where positive actions are concerned. While I deal with negative actions instantly (with no violence) I watch closely for any positive action perceivable. Children, wives, husbands, people in the work place and horses are far more apt to perform at a high level when they are expressing positive behavior.

7/30/2013: I read on Facebook that you are in France and my heart leaped! We very much need your concepts here and I wonder what you are participating in. What is a Starting Gate issue? Where can I learn more about listening to my horse?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your question, and I must say that I have been in France having fun with two horses that seemed to go into the starting stalls without any problem. The issue was that each of them refused to leave the starting stall when the gates flew open and the race was on. That can cause any owner to choke on his mint julep, or in France it might be champagne. Watching your horse give the field twelve or fourteen lengths before choosing to leave the starting stall is a death knell to the best of racehorses. One of the horses I worked with gave the field fourteen lengths and then actually won the race. That’s how talented this young horse is.

He was entered back against much tougher company after calling in an expert to deal with him. He gave the next group of opponents another fourteen lengths and finished third beaten by only two lengths. These were high level competitors and one would have to ask just how good is this horse? I worked with him for ten days and it is my hope that he will get adequate human assistance before his next start which is scheduled for early July. It is a mile and one half race with a purse well over a half million US dollars. When I left France he was flying out of the starting gates. I almost feel that he was too keen following ten sessions of my work with him.

The problem, as I see it, is that this young horse was ultra sensitive to the touch and the rails inside the starting stall were simply too invasive. As Thoroughbreds set their feet for the start, they will generally spread wide behind and then push off like a rocket. As they leave the stall at top speed, their stifles are burned by the rails that jut out into the stall. This is not an uncommon occurrence and it requires innovation so as to protect the area of the flanks and the stifles as the horse leaves. I say that the protective blanket that I use was invented by a horse called Prince of Darkness. He was in training in Newmarket, England when they called me in to get him right.

7/24/2013: As I watch your Equus Online Uni lessons and try to understand the level of ‘schooling’ taking place, I am struck by a concern that could be misunderstood by the novice. In the lessons, you tug or jerk on the lead to school the horse. To the uneducated eye, this looks like violence and demand on the part of the trainer. It is virtually impossible to impart to someone via video the level of force being used and so when one looks at the horse’s reaction it appears to be severe. Perhaps a lesson introduced early in the sequence that talks to how much and what kind of technique is required to use your methods would be beneficial. I see examples of kicking the horse to get response and have been told by my trainer to ‘kick the horse’ when he does not do what I would desire him to do.

Monty’s Answer: You have touched on a point that is very timely. There is no question that we need to work much harder at explaining the use of the Dually Halter. Typically I explain that the action need not be hard but it must be instant. If one acts instantly often the reaction of the horse is more dramatic than the viewer can process. The combination of the quick reaction along with the startled movements of the horses tends to produce the visual image of harsh use of the halter.

Pain is never the object. Discomfort is the desired effect. The pressure applied during schooling should be principally because of the horse’s actions and not the handler. Having said that, it should be noted that the Dually Halter has a very soft nose band. I tell my students that the effect should be like having a twist in your sock. It is quite uncomfortable but not life threatening, Pain is not the object and release and comfort should be the reward.

There are several factors that we need to make clear to our students and certainly one of those is that I see many students swinging the coil of lines in the hand opposite the schooling hand. Subliminally this produces the sight of a threatening handler and it appears as though the horse is frightened by this action. I know that it took me a long time to moderate my actions so that the appearance was less harsh than my original way of working.

One should remember that so many horses are trained with chains over the nose that bite in to flesh. If this was effective and humane I might never have invented the Dually Halter. As I worked on the prototypes I found that eliminating pain was a more effective training process than utilizing pain. Not only was the Dually Halter more humane but we received the desired behavioral modification even more effectively than the old methods.

I accept your question with the mind set of complete understanding. Further, I appreciate the input because perception is reality and it is not good enough for us to approximate perfection in our work while leaving the perception that it is not perfect. At the moment you are acting as a trainer for us because we often get too busy with our work to completely realize how it appears. Thank you very much for your words and for your concern.

7/17/2013: I would like to submit a question about my 2-year-old filly. I have spent a considerable amount of time on the ground with this filly since she was born. For the most part, she has always been respectful. I usually go out to the pasture and rub down her and her pasture mate and check them for wood ticks on a daily basis and out of the blue while I was just standing and looking at them both, she turned her hind end towards me, which I know means lack of respect in the horse language. I pushed her butt away from me and stood in front of her. And she did it again. And I responded by pushing her away and standing in front of her again, and then I left the pasture. My question is: What is my best response to do when she does turn her hind end towards me? She had no intentions of kicking. Was she jealous of the other horse? If you could answer this question for me, I would be appreciate it very much.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for the question. I have outlined in From My Hands to Yours, my textbook, what I consider to be the optimum guideline for the use of Join-Up as it pertains to the growing up months. The problem that you describe in your question can be addressed through the proper use of Join-Up. If this procedure has only been done a few times during the life of this filly then I suggest that you get a lot more active in using Join-Up to overcome the problem as described.

First the use of a round or similarly sized enclosure should be utilized to produce the Join-Up phenomenon. Your filly should be charged a significant price for turning the rear quarters to you during the execution of this procedure. The price she pays is to go to work at a trot and canter several times around the enclosure. She should be rewarded with good rubs between the eyes when the head, neck and forequarters face you.

After your filly is very attentive in the limited area then one should migrate to a gradually larger area including the field you described earlier. At first, I would work her in the field without other horses involved. You should find that she will be responsive, coming back to you soon after you ask her to go away. If not, go back to the smaller enclosure and reinforce the Join-Up. With these procedures complete she should find value in facing you.

7/10/2013: At the moment I am training a three year old Quarter Horse. I do a lot of ground work for flexion and he takes it well. While riding he is happy to bend to the right side and he stays collected. When I change to the left he starts fighting. I tried to ride smaller circles with him but he still wants to put his head to the outside. I hope you can help me.

Monty’s Answer: As I was reading this question my mind immediately went to physical check-up. I was certain that I would hear that your horse has been thoroughly checked out physically and found to be problem free. I did not hear that statement. Obviously, then, my first response would be to have your horse thoroughly vetted for pain due to mal-alignment or inflammation that would tend to approximate mal-alignment. Typically the symptoms you have described will very often be produced by pain.

While it’s true that I am not an ardent fan of hours of flex training, I am a fan of creating the flexible horse. I believe that certain trainers who would ask the horse to virtually touch the toe of their boot first to the right and then to the left, time after time, tend to produce a horse that resists flexion or tends to flex without following their head into the desired maneuver. I am not suggesting that I know that you have over flexed this horse. I just worry about it based on your words.

These procedures are definitely an art form and to decide what is too much and what is not enough has a lot to do with the trainer and the way he executes and the horse and the way he processes the trainers queues. It is a very difficult question to ask without seeing the action described but I would first clear the question of physical pain and then I would take a hard look at the training procedures to be sure that you are encouraging the production of a happy horse willing to cooperate with your hands and legs.

Another factor that one must consider is the use of the rider’s legs. Are you relying upon all outside leg to bend to the left? If you are I suggest that you try a significant use of the inside leg which will tend to encourage the horses head to come toward that leg. Let us know more about how these elements are working for you.

7/3/2013: I have studied and applied your methods on all my horses for the past 15 years and have greatly improved my relationships with my horses. About 5 years ago I was given a Hispano/Arab mare with a sad history of misunderstanding and abuse, as well as many other abuses she was tied in stocks and beaten with a hammer for being difficult for the farrier. Needless to say she was not the most trusting of individuals!

We have come a long way since then, and she is now the most willing ride out on trials and happily accepts being led, groomed and having her feet trimmed. There is only one problem I still have; she is difficult to catch in the field. I always succeed in catching her, but she always moves away when she sees a lead rope and I have send her around for a few minutes before she will come to me.
I wonder if it’s a residual fear of ropes and their associations or if she, and I, anticipate there being a problem. Once I have a lead rope on her she will happily follow me anywhere. I would really appreciate your thoughts on the matter as I would like to think we could overcome any lingering fears she has.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you. It comes under the heading “what a small world we live in”. About three months ago I received into training a Peruvian Paso owned by a lady in Southern California. In his show career he was a national champion. The fact is however his start in life was under the tutelage of South American style horsemanship. He too would do anything you ask when he was completely in the grasp of forceful and very violent horse trainers, straight from Peru.

He was purchased by a well-meaning lady who invested in him principally because of his national championship. I feel certain that this lady believed that she couldn’t go wrong with a national champion. The first message I got through to me was he simply couldn’t be caught in the field. You could get very close to him without a rope but with a rope it was impossible to catch him in when he was in a box stall. Does this sound familiar?

Eventually he broke the jaw of a very competent horse lady while attempting to catch him in the field. After that a long list of remedial problems were sent through to me. Now you have heard the bad news. The good news is that the lady has sent him through to Flag Is Up Farms three months ago and we are now experiencing a wonderful 7 year old who is trying desperately to overcome a very difficult start in life.

Sessions of Join-Up in the round pen put the catching thing on the right track. We progressed to an enclosure of 100 feet by 100 feet and incrementally larger until now he will come to you in the field. In addition we can now swing ropes all over him, walk over tarpaulins and drag a tarpaulin on a rope close to his heels. How in the world did we accomplish all of these things? The answer began with Join-Up and progressed to a full understanding of his needs.

Each day we had to analyze where we were with him and then go through the procedures each of which was designed to get his confidence back. It is never a perfect world when you have to bury the memories of an abusive beginning. Time will tell if our horse will suffer flashbacks and reignite those survival skills that he so clearly possessed when he arrived here. All I can tell you is its working and I think he is going to make it.

The owner has been here and ridden him successfully with a big smile on her face. I am certain that the smile was only on the surface of a still terrified owner. She has every right to be extremely cautious and plans to return for 2-3 more rides before I will clear him to return to his Southern California home. It can be dangerous to deal with these problems but it is extremely gratifying when we get it right. I have confidence we will all smile.

6/26/13: I have long lined my horse for almost a year now. It is very fun. We really enjoy it, my horse and I. Something happened last week. Three guys came by the air in a thing we call in French ‘para-moteur’. It is a parachute with a place to sit under it. It is powered with a small motor. It’s big and it makes a lot of noise! I was training my horse with long lines. My horse stopped. I told him to stay. The two first men saw me and got the farthest away they could but the last one passed just over our head at maybe 20 feet! My horse turned around so I dropped the line to stay safe and my horse blasted away! I wasn’t able to continue the training after that because he was really nervous. I trained 3-4 days after the incident (because of the bad weather)…and he was still a little bit nervous but I did it, gradually. My question: Was it best to drop the lines? I was in a paddock 70 × 50 ft . I felt like it was impossible (for me) to keep him with me; what would you have done? Thank you in advance for your concern. I love all I learned from you. You can’t imagine how much you have helped me understand horses.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your question. My word! What a terrible situation you are in. This sort of unexpected turmoil can never be placed in a specific set of recommendations. One must act spontaneously to stay safe in any way possible. The greatest fear, for me, in a situation like this is that one would be caught up in the lines as the horse exploded and ran away. The most important thing is to spread the lines as far apart as possible and release them on the ground behind the horse if possible.

At that point in time, it is essential that one should move away from the direction the horse is traveling and stay as far from the lines as humanly possible. There is a time for heroism and a time to be intelligent. Circumstances such as this are not the time to be a hero. One’s horse must work this out on their own under these circumstances. As soon as the uncontrolled excitement is over, one should go to the horse and remove the lines as soon as it is safe to do so.

It is my opinion that it is best to allow the horse to stop all work for that day. One should take the horse to their familiar living place, stay there with them and allow them to completely calm down. It is critical in the days following to slowly reintroduce the procedure that was occurring when the chaos broke out. In this case one might begin with a single line proceeding only to two lines when it feels completely safe to do so. It sounds like you were lucky to get out of this one without injury.

Thank you for your words of confidence of me and my concepts. Don’t hesitate to stay in touch with us should there be any further questions you have.

6/19/2013: I was involved in the harness racing sport in Germany for many years, I helped train horses (trotters), and I was the one who had to care for them, too. I had many duties when it came to the horses and the man I have learned from treated his horses quite well. But when we went to races I always saw other trainers and drivers treat their horses very badly. They hit them, mostly with whips that are used in the races, too. I talked to them and listened to them and I heard, that they were all convinced, that punishing a horse in a brutal way was good/necessary when the horse didn’t do what you wanted. I even heard of electric prods and such things.

I tried to convince a driver to drive our horse without a whip in the race, because we never used one in the training process but he said he would NEVER go into the race without a whip! How could he win when the others used a whip and he didn’t? so he said. He used it in the race, our horse became afraid and galloped, so was disqualified. This whole situation in the German harness racing sport hasn’t changed much till today. In the future I will have influence on the training process of at least one horse and I will try to change some things (try a Join-Up, like I did with my horse etc.)

So here are my questions: How can I convince them not to use whips and the whole punishing thing? Do you have any experiences with training trotters for harness racing? I’m sure your wonderful methods would work there, too. I hope I can convince them of your way of training/treating horses, I will always try.

Monty’s Answer: It is a pleasure to answer your question because it enters the realm of everything that I am doing to reduce violence in the training of horses globally. While harness racing is not a discipline that I have participated in I have driven harness horses on many occasions. I believe that they are wonderful, generous horses, in most cases.

There is one thing that is for absolute certain and that is if there were no whips in harness racing it would still be fair for every human and certainly fairer for the horses. In Thoroughbred racing the human audiences are becoming smaller and smaller and older and older. It seems that the younger people have come to dislike whipping horses.

The only way that I know to encourage non-violent training is to demonstrate that horses do a better job when they are doing their work because they want to rather than being forced to. This is, coincidentally, the same case for people. I am working very hard to convince the world that violence is not the answer; you could help too.

6/13/2013: My horse is very sensitive in the flank and the stifle area. When I am grooming her, she seems to get very angry. She puts her ears back and even acts as though she would kick me. When I brush or touch her in the area of the flank or the stifle, she moves her hips toward me and not away. If I push harder, she pushes much harder against me. She has pinned me up against the wall several times and it’s very frightening. What should I do, Mr. Roberts? My instructor says that I should not go into her stall without a whip. I don’t want to whip her, but I don’t want her to hurt me either. There must be a solution to this problem. Can you help me? Sincerely, “Extremely Frightened!”

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your inquiry. This is actually a subject near and dear to my heart. This is the pattern of behavior that causes so much trouble with horses in the starting stalls in racing. There are rails inside the stalls which jut out toward the horse. They are there to protect the feet of the jockey but in my opinion, they cause more trouble than they save. The horse that is sensitive in the flanks and stifles will go ‘into pressure’ particularly if its applied to that area of their body. I have maintained for most of my adult life that horses are ‘into pressure’ animals. It is the same phenomenon as we see in the human baby as they bring in new teeth.

The gums are irritated and the child gets comfort from pressing hard on them typically from a teething ring. The horse has survived, in part, because they have learned to go into the sharp pain of a dog biting in the region of the flank. If the horse should run away the dog would simply rip the flesh allowing the intestines to exit the body and the dog makes a successful kill. Survival of the fittest has caused horses to behave with an ‘into pressure’ pattern of dealing with sharp pain. One must use soft grooming brushes on this type of horse and be very careful about staying out of the kick zone. It is essential that we treat this area carefully.

You have probably trained your horse to move off pressure without even knowing it. While riding, you will put a leg against your horses side and when the horse moves off the leg, you remove the pressure. You have probably done this on both sides of your horse. Most likely, when your horse was ridden only a few times, there was a tendency to move into the rider’s leg and not away from it. Eventually however your horse learned it was better to move away from the leg. At this present time I have some experiments going on which may prove to be a help with the very problem that you have described. It is to see if we can teach the horse to move off pressure in the area of the flanks.

In order to alter this behavior, I have asked that a soccer ball be attached to the end of a strong bamboo pole. I have asked that the pole be about 6 feet long (2 meters). The ball is actually taped onto the end of the stick, covered with sponge and more tape applied… any way to cause the bamboo stick to be safe when pushed against the horses flanks. I direct the handler to press the ball into the area of the flanks, and stay with it if the horse pushes back. After a few minutes of work, most horses will step away experimenting with how to get the pressure off the ball in the flank. With the slightest step away the handler will remove the ball immediately, releasing all pressure.

The reason for the large ball is so that the horse feels no sharp pain. After removing the ball the handler should proceed to the other side and repeat the process. When one can achieve behavior that is immediately off pressure instead of into pressure, you’re well on your way to a successful alteration of deeply imbedded behavioral patterns. Having accomplished this you will be safer to groom, open gates more easily and even have better flying lead changes than you could achieve prior to training your horse to move off pressure even when it’s in the flank area. It is still early in this experimentation, but I think I am the first person to set up this kind of trial.

6/5/2013: I read on Facebook that you are in France and my heart leaped! We very much need your concepts here and I wonder what you are participating in. What is a Starting Gate issue? Where can I learn more about listening to my horse?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your question, and I must say that I have been in France having fun with two horses that seemed to go into the starting stalls without any problem. The issue was that each of them refused to leave the starting stall when the gates flew open and the race was on. That can cause any owner to choke on his mint julep, or in France it might be champagne. Watching your horse give the field twelve or fourteen lengths before choosing to leave the starting stall is a death knell to the best of racehorses. One of the horses I worked with gave the field fourteen lengths and then actually won the race. That’s how talented this young horse is.

He was entered back against much tougher company after calling in an expert to deal with him. He gave the next group of opponents another fourteen lengths and finished third beaten by only two lengths. These were high level competitors and one would have to ask just how good is this horse? I worked with him for ten days and it is my hope that he will get adequate human assistance before his next start which is scheduled for early July. It is a mile and one half race with a purse well over a half million US dollars. When I left France he was flying out of the starting gates. I almost feel that he was too keen following ten sessions of my work with him.

The problem, as I see it, is that this young horse was ultra sensitive to the touch and the rails inside the starting stall were simply too invasive. As Thoroughbreds set their feet for the start, they will generally spread wide behind and then push off like a rocket. As they leave the stall at top speed, their stifles are burned by the rails that jut out into the stall. This is not an uncommon occurrence and it requires innovation so as to protect the area of the flanks and the stifles as the horse leaves. I say that the protective blanket that I use was invented by a horse called Prince of Darkness. He was in training in Newmarket, England when they called me in to get him right.
Read the whole story here: http://www.montyroberts.com/articles/horse-training/the-starting-gate-for-sensitive-racehorses/

5/29/13: My name is Pierangelo. I’m writing from France and I have an Italian Horse that is 7 years old. The problem is when we work with the Dually Halter, on the ground, he is always trying to bite. You say that violence is not an answer but for me it is a kind of violence from his side. To be honest he makes it just when he works and also riding when he decides to not work is a really nightmare. If not, when he is in a good day he is nice and you can do everything with him because he learns very quickly. I’ve asked two professional trainers and the feedback has been maybe it is better to sell him, I DON’T WANT TO DO THAT. So first question: How can I stop his biting? Second: how can I get a good relationship to work?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your inquiry. I thank you also for your acceptance of my concepts and curiosity where they are concerned. Very often I receive information similar to what you have outlined regarding your horse. In a very high percentage of such cases it is discovered that violence was used in the training process during the course of the formative years of the horse’s life. Horses treated with violence will often express violence toward the human because it is the only option left to them. I think the best suggestion I can make to you is that somehow you get copy of my textook, “From My Hands to Yours,” and follow each of the concepts that I outline in there. Biting has its own chapter.

When I hear you say that biting is violence from the horse to the human, it concerns me that you might be treating this as a pass to use violence and feel that it is justified. For me, violence is never justified. It is, in fact, something that we typically use when we are simply out of ideas that are non-violent. We use harsh methods from frustration most of the time. I understand how this can happen but I’ve never witnessed it being the answer to the problem involved. It is true that this horse might be beyond repair. If that’s the case, let’s be sure that we prepare your mind for the next horse to come along so that violence does not become an acceptable option.

Attacking the point of consternation is an open invitation to war. If we go to war with the horse it is likely the horse will win. They’re bigger, stronger and faster. What happens when one chooses to hit the horse for biting is that the biting will continue at the same level. The horse will become more cunning as to timing, faster on the attack and very quick to ‘jerk back’ anticipating being hit. The overall outcome is that the biting becomes much worse rather than experiencing an improvement.

Professional trainers will sometimes recommend harsh measures in an attempt to discourage biting. I have heard them say that you hit with your fist very hard at the slightest indication that a bite is coming. I have been told to use vibrating practical joke mechanisms which have a sharp point on them. Some have said to use a clothes peg to execute a painful pinch; I’ve even heard it recommended using a pair of pliers. The worst I know of is the recommendation to place a nail between your fingers jabbing the horse that bites.

Each of these measures is guaranteed to produce a horse which is a more dangerous biter than previously. One must agree to take all painful/violent measures out of the training scenario. It is critical that no attention is paid to the muzzle area of the biting horse whatsoever. These measures will simply cause the horse to bite down with the teeth and then exit taking parts of your clothing and possibly even your skin along with him. There are much more effective ways to deal with this problem.

Read more about Monty’s thoughts on handling the horse that bites: http://www.montyroberts.com/monty-blog/ask-monty-isnt-it-ok-to-hit-the-horse-who-bites-you/

5/22/2013: Hi Mr Roberts, I’ve recently become the proud owner of a 10 year old saddler mare (registered with the South African Saddler Association). I live in an area of South Africa where showjumping and dressage are the only “acceptable” equine activities. My daughter has started jumping our horse and she seems to have taken to it like a duck to water, but everyone says a saddler can’t make it as a serious jumper. Is this true or just prejudice of people who think if a horse is not a Warmblood it’s not a horse?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for asking me to assist you. It is fortunate that you have chosen show jumping to be the discipline that you are interested in. It is also fortunate that your horse seems to have taken to it like a duck to water. Let me respond to you by saying that show jumping is one of those few disciplines that is absolutely objective. Nobody’s opinion is involved when determining the outcome of the competition. The jump stayed up or the jump fell down, that is all that matters. If your horse can jump as high as you choose to attempt then it is likely that you will have a successful career with this horse. If the jumps all fall down, then we can discuss why the breeding may be the cause of it.

Dressage is a very different situation entirely. This discipline is judged subjectively. Some trained person observes the performance and decides the degree of excellence that is exhibited in the course of the contest. If this trained judge does not believe that saddlers’ make particularly good dressage horses, then it is likely that a career in this discipline is not apt to bring you great success. Subjective judging has always been a great challenge for our industry. It often produces a champion on one week that is marked very low by the judge on another week. Many things in our life revolve around subjectivity. We even choose our friends by how we feel about them while someone else might not like them at all.

Globally, the Warmblood owns the dressage discipline. The world of horsemanship has decided that the Warmblood is virtually the only breed that can achieve high marks in this discipline. We see some Friesian horses score pretty well under certain judges but in the world of high level dressage it is difficult for them to compete. Arabians and Thoroughbreds can certainly execute dressage procedures and some can do them very well. The trained judge will generally, however, recognize the movements of the Warmblood to be superior to either of these breeds. For me, horses are horses and if you enjoy your horse in a given discipline, then continue that enjoyment. It shouldn’t matter what the judges think.

One must decide whether we are going to be a horseman seeking high marks in the highest levels of any given discipline or whether we do what we enjoy with our horses for the pleasure of it. The one thing you have going for you is that, in show jumping, one has to worry only about whether the jump stays up or your horse knocks it down. If your horse can jump and you leave all the fences up, they will soon be looking for your type of horse because no breed is perfect and each show jumping competitor knocks some fences down along the way. Thank you for investigating my thoughts on this subject. I wish you the very best of luck with whatever horse you have and whatever discipline you choose.

5/15/2013: I’ve been reading into your techniques this evening, trying to find an answer on how to connect with a mare I just started riding. But the horses on the films are much “wilder than she is”. My problem is not an untamed horse, rather a calm, but introvert little woman.

History: She’s a dressage horse, about 14 years. She has not been ridden since spring, due to a “short staff” this last year, but she is actually a very good dressage horse, bred and trained by an acknowledge dressage rider. She is used to be around horses, dogs and people, but went for many years without “her own person”. She is quiet, does not do any “nasty” tricks, does whatever you want her to do in the stall (cleaning hooves she almost gives me the hoof) – perfect in that sense, really.

What I am contacting you for, is that she’s very hard to make contact with, in a personal way. Maybe she’s introvert, and will always stay this way, but I think it’s sad. I’ve only had her for a week now, but I’ve never met a horse who I really feel don’t care about the company I can offer. She seems neither happy or annoyed with me. Today I stood outside her stall to give her a treat, she wanted it and really stretched her neck after it, but didn’t bother to take a step foreward to take the treat from my hand. I thought that was a bit weird. What I do and what I think I do wrong – but don’t know how wrong/relevant or how to avoid or solve…

1. The horses are brought in to the stables after paddock in afternoon – all horses at once (we open the gates from the paddock and they trot into their own boxes, receiving hay when they arrive). I groom her almost immediately after she’s entered her box. – What I think might be wrong: this might be annoying – and she’d like to eat some hay in piece before I annoy her. (But as I finnish work and arrive at the stables at this time, and need to get home to my family before late evening, I don’t know if I can change this routine…)

2. I groom her for at least 30 min, talk calmly to her, let her remove her head if she wants when grooming her head. – What I think might be wrong: I’ve learned that head grooming should be postponed for as long as possible – but I feel I need to grom it before taking the bridle on. Then again, onwards to next question – which may lead me into even waiting with having to put on the bridle:

3. I started riding her the first day I met her (…) but I am calm and quiet with her here too, and give her sensitive cues. Not training at all yet, just riding at the fields, only walking (sometimes she starts trotting a bit in a quiet dressagy way). – what I think might be wrong: I should have connected with her in the stable first for some days, maybe more?

In general I’ve tried to give her space, not just rushing into her life and demanding things. I’ve been quiet with her. Give her some treats now and then. But I am starting to think that this introvert little, perfect woman, needs more than just riding and time to like her rider. I would love to get some tips on how to continue with her. Eventually I would love to ride dressage and some show jumping with her – I’ve seen videos of what she can do, and it’s amazing – but if she’s not happy with our team, I won’t be either…

Monty’s Answer: If you’ve only had this mare for one week I would not be all that concerned about the behavior you’ve outlined. Please do not feed from the hand. Food is not a trophy for the horse as no blade of grass has ever run from them. Feeding from the hand will cost you and not help you. Create the environment for Join-Up. Be innovative. It is not difficult to create this environment. This mare may simply be well trained and obedient.

Sometimes this type of training tends to create a bit of a vegetable. One can awaken those elements in their personality to appreciate the given human being who sets up the partnership with Equus, their communication system. My Equus Online University will bring you hundreds of ways to create this avenue of partnership. The rubbing and walking away will get it started. Continue to be concerned but don’t panic. The use of my concepts will win out in the end.

5/8/2013: I am a student on your Equus Online Uni (and a very grateful one at that!) that greatly respects your opinion and has been helped immensely by your teaching and testimony. I am gathering tidbits and tips on natural horsemanship from a number of places, including hand-me-down magazines and American Indian history. However, you have probably been my greatest influence in the art of horsemanship, which is why I hope you’ll find time to answer my question.

I have found the practice of laying down a horse as a form of “gentling” in both modern horse magazines and Native American history. I have seen it done (though not in-person) in a seemingly acceptable and successful manner…but also in a (in my soft-hearted opinion) violent and simply wrong manner. Does it depend on the horse and person, or do you think this method is completely right or wrong? It just seems to go completely against the language of Equus, but I am just learning and trust your experienced judgment better than my own, although my instincts tell me forcing a prey animal down like that would terrify it more than train it.

Monty’s Answer: It’s my opinion that eventually the horse will lie down in a relaxed and accepting state of mind. Early male humans made drawings on the caves which would indicate that their females would eventually exhibit that same behavior. No matter how you describe the outcome or explain the method it is the creation of submission that one accomplishes with this act. There are many horsemen who still employ this procedure, mostly in private.

The Horse Whisperer movie would clearly exhibit the behavior shaping that you are describing in this question. If you have the chance to see it again, however, notice the terror in the eyes of the horse in the early stages of tying his front foot to the saddle while educating him to lie down. My father was a horse trainer that felt that no horse was properly trained until it was taught to lie down and to be completely submissive to the human in every way.

Prehistoric man would probably indicate that it kept his wives in the caves and completely loyal to him. He probably would not care whether that obedience and loyalty was expressed because of respect or love. The fact is they behaved and that was his ultimate goal. I have come to learn that horses will respond very much like female humans. It’s just that they act much more effectively with us if they do it because they want to and not out of fear.

Laying a horse down with any method whatsoever is not a part of my conceptual menu. Everything I do with a horse is based in an attempt to cause the horse to want to do it. This does not mean that someday a horseman will present a method free of demand and violence, which results in laying a horse down and then improves performance. If I am still alive when that happens, I will take a hard look at adding it to my lexicon.

5/1/2013: I’m a huge fan of your work. Your book “From My Hands to Yours” is my favorite horsemanship textbook and it is my everyday manual. It helps me a lot to educate my 3 years old Paint horse. I live in Bulgaria – Eastern Europe – and unfortunately here we do not have any natural horsemanship clinics. I have educated my horse alone, after reading your books and watching some of your Equus online videos.

Me and my mare have a very good relationship. She lives outside in a ranch situated at the foot of the mountain with 23 other horses. So she is a free and happy horse. When I go to take her from the pasture she starts to whinny and runs toward me. She works with me with pleasure and meets my requests without any resistance.

She is very calm and she love to be with me, but we still have a lot to learn. I do not have any problems with her when we ride outside the ranch and there is an experienced horse in front of her leading. But I would like to learn her to be a leader and to be able to ride alone without any other horses around her. Unfortunately, currently she doesn’t feel self-confident when she has to lead the group.

Sometimes when I ask her to outrun the horse in front of her and to lead the group she makes some meters galloping then suddenly starts to push to the right side and stops. The same frequently happens when I take her for a walk alone, especially when we are near the pasture. :)
It is most probably my fault…Would you please advise me what to do?

Monty’s Answer: Everything that we observe as behavior from out horses is generated as a response to what we the human have done. It doesn’t matter how proficient we are as horsemen we all make mistakes and we must deal with the response that we get from our horses because of the mistakes we make. In your question I quickly recognize errors which are coming from the human contact. I recommend that you take advantage of my Equus Online University because there are so many lessons there that would assist you with these problems.

It’s great that you have From My Hands To Yours and I can quickly recommend that you read several chapters. One is on separation anxiety. Another is on barn sour and a third has to do with balking or napping. Each of these chapters deals with equine behavior that I am hearing in your question. I have had good success when riding a horse like this well into the country side and then tying the horse safely using a tree limb with flexible contact.

While the horse is tied, I take up a position between 5-10 meters away from the horse and allow for the animal to exhibit anxious behavior with no reward attached. Sometimes it takes hours before they stop digging and acting out against the idea of being alone. Eventually however one can create a horse that is willing to go with you without other horses involved. I don’t want to assume anything; therefore I need to ask if you have achieved a Join-Up with your horse. This builds trust. Let us know how this idea works.

4/24/2013: My name is Alba Payo, I have worked 25 years as a clerk in a construction company. I’m from Rodeiro, belonging to the province of Pontevedra (Galicia) in northern Spain and have always had an interest in horses and their environment.

In these months, I’ve read most of your books “The Man Who Listens to Horses”, “The Horses in My Life” and now I’m reading your textbook, “From My Hands to Yours”, to see if I can implement my horse interactions with some of the knowledge gained through your explanations and descriptions. I have also visited many times your website to see videos and lectures.

My horse, Ray J, is a four year old, a neutered male, very noble. In my house there was always a horse and I have always had interest in understanding and give each day the best for this animal, who is so wonderful. I’m an only child, I have no brothers and my horses were the brothers I never had, I spent with them many unforgettable moments in equestrian trails.

Yet, sometimes, I have the feeling of not understanding my horse nor he being able to understand me, but I strive to give the best, a good bed, good feed, clean hooves, and brushing, I think not all enough to enjoy and be happy with me, because I might need more confidence between them.

I have tried Join-Up, I think it worked in part, but not a hundred percent, in fact, he managed to follow me but did not deliver any signals that you describe in your books. Maybe I should get more time to practice Join-Up until my horse and me we achieve a perfect union, and see if there is the basis for success.

I wonder how I can solve several problems I have with my horse, for example:
1 – How to ask to trot faster and with consistent goodwill
2 – How to avoid unexpectedly turning toward “back home” when we are on a trail
3 – How to stop or slow down without touching a rein
4 – How to get past something scary, like the wash racks which is a safe place where nobody has ever been hurt

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your letter, Payo. It isn’t very often that I get one from Spain. My tours of Spain would indicate to me that there is a lot of work to be done if we are to improve the lives of the horses in that country. It will be people such as yourself that will make it happen if it ever does.

Each of the questions that have been included in your correspondence will find answers in the material that we currently have going out to the world of horsemen. You have the “From My Hands to Yours” textbook and that’s a great start.

4/17/2013: Is there significance to defecation when training horses in an enclosed area. ie. Is it nerviness or release?

Monty’s Answer [Part 3 of 3]: As horses evolved, evidence suggests that the faster ones lived to reproduce while the slower ones were generally harvested before reproducing slow horses. While it’s true that we have been interrupting Mother Nature for 6000 years, earlier patterns are still in place. It seems that this particular phenomenon was well established for millions of years before we began to genetically manipulate Equus for our own desires. I am pleased to have the opportunity to complete this exercise. I should have written about this characteristic many years ago.

It is interesting to note that I have paid close attention to the frequency of defecation as I bring horses to the round pen for their first saddle and rider. Regardless of their mental appearance, if they defecate with unusual frequency I tend to regard them as hyper nervous individuals. This alters slightly my approach. I will require less and push less hard on those that repeatedly defecate. I have found this to be an effective way to deal with these individuals.

Certain individuals extremely sensitive to the perceived rights of animals in general may well take the position that if its stressful we shouldn’t be doing any of these things with horses in the first place. That is certainly a separate issue but I feel strongly that that would be a major mistake. Stress is a part of every biological entity and properly attended to can provide a strength instead of a weakness. The flight animal inherently is looking for a friend.

The horse is a herd animal. They do much better physiologically if they can exist in a tranquil environment with trusted individuals as life partners. Trust is the definitive word and it is with that goal in mind that I discovered and quantified Join-Up in the first place. In order to bring about a trusting partnership a certain level of stress must be experienced in order to justify an outcome of trust. We must realize that horses are extremely flighty animals and in order to bring them to a level of trust with the human they must pass through portals on their journey that can be stressful to a degree.

With my concepts in place I state categorically that there is no need for pain or violence to be any part of that process. If only I could convince the world to eliminate violence it would answer many of the difficult questions we are facing with what we consider to be remedial horses when in actual fact they are only doing what Mother Nature dictates. To eliminate all stress would abolish man’s interaction with horses and that would surely spell the demise of Equus the specie.

[Review the previous parts of this post here: http://www.montyroberts.com/monty-blog/why-do-some-horses-defecate-at-the-start-of-a-training-session/]

4/10/2013: Is there significance to defecation when training horses in an enclosed area. ie. Is it nerviness or release?

Monty’s Answer [Part 2]: Now just remember that these youngsters had been taken from their stable about 45 minutes before entering the ring. They would move to an area where they would be visually examined by hundreds of prospective buyers while standing still with approx. 12 other youngsters forming two lines. These horses were asked to move forward about 50 feet at the conclusion of a sale forward of their travel within the pavilion. About 15 minutes before their pavilion entry they were asked to enter the pavilion. Their first experience within the building was to walk in a large circle about 80 feet in diameter.

Prospective buyers swarm through the central portion watching their action at the walk. Several hundred surround the circle peering from behind a four foot wall. As the time for their sale draws closer each individual is asked to stand in a hallway while serious buyers and veterinarians execute a close examination. Finally, our horse is asked to walk through a very large sliding door into a theater type pavilion with a 1000 or so viewers and an auctioneer rattling English words through a public address system sounding like a machine gun.

Just imagine what the brain of this youngster is going through. Stop to think that during this process requiring nearly an hour complete, our subject took about 45 minutes to clear the bowels before entering the sales ring. Having thought this through one might ask how in the world could there be anything left for Joe. The fact is virtually all of them have something left. The reason they do is the body keeps producing these laxative fluids that are designed to clear the bowels.

One might ask why Mother Nature set up this procedure. Remember that survival of the fittest is a critical goal of Mother Nature for every species on earth. Also remember that horses were designed to graze on open grassy areas where they could see several hundred yards in every direction. One should also be mindful of the fact that the slowest individual was generally the one taken by invading predators that selected their herd as a food source.

Those of us who have been involved in horse racing will understand that it has been concluded that every pound added to a race horses back reduces their performance by 1-2 horse lengths in a mile. Racing officials globally ponder over 1, 2 or 3 differences in the handicap process whereby they attempt to get equality for betting purposes. If 1, 2 or 3 pounds can make a difference in the race outcome, then recognize the difference it would make for a horse to empty out 10-20 pounds of fecal material as they flee the charging predator.

[Part 3 in next week’s Ask Monty]

4/3/2013: Is there significance to defecation when training horses in an enclosed area. ie. Is it nerviness or release?

Monty’s Answer [Part 1]: Let me say right at the outset that I discuss this phenomenon quite often as I do my demonstrations. If I have written an answer to this question, I can’t remember having done so. But before I answer the question, there is a significant amount of mind organizing that I feel compelled to do. First of all let me state that I have no idea why you use ‘enclosed area’ as a parameter to this behavior. Without any question this is a natural physiological phenomenon brought about by a psychological trigger. This phenomenon dates back millions of years before there was any enclosure of any kind and has nothing to do with fences, walls or any man-made structure.

In addition, I outline two options as to why this phenomenon might take place: you use the terms nerviness or release which limits me to a conclusion that is not the answer to why defecation takes place in times of fear, stress or uncertainty. Remember that horses are neophobic. Anything new or viewed with uncertainty causes certain physiological activity brought about by a psychologically induced state of concern. These circumstances occur because of environmental concerns regardless of the horse’s vocation.

The fact is that evidence suggests that this phenomenon occurred on the open plains of North Africa millions of years before there were humanoid creatures residing on this planet. When the horse is subjected to sight, sound, smell or tactile fears, circumstances occur within their physiology whereby certain fluids are secreted directly into the intestinal tract. There is an immediate loosening of the bowels often causing uncontrollable defecation. It has been estimated that a stressful circumstance may easily release 10-20 pounds of fecal material in a very few minutes.

In years past Pat and I spent many hours sitting in the sales pavilion of the world’s highest level of Thoroughbreds at auction. Each sales ring had a staff member with a scoop and a tub to pick up droppings from about 98% of every young Thoroughbred that passed through the ring. We got to know some of those fellows who had this job. I remember so well Joe at Keeneland who had been the official pooper-scooper for 40 years before retirement. I remember asking him how many horses went through that ring without clearing their bowels. He told me that it averaged probably one per day and a day at Keeneland would see almost 400 pass through the pavilion.

[Part 2 in next week’s Ask Monty]

3/27/2013 — A Question from Fergus:

Dear Mr. Roberts,

I know most of your questions are from people, but I’d like to ask you something too, if that’s OK, because I’ve heard, and read, that you know some things about horses. You see, there’s a big human word that I’m having a great deal of trouble with: “Desensitize”. My people don’t say it to me, they say it to each other. What they say to me is: “Easy, does, it Fergus, it’s OK.” But it’s not OK! Because when they come to me saying that, they are tense and nervous, and I know they are going to show me something horrifying! It is going to be something that moves, makes suspicious noises, and wants to touch me. I’d rather leave, but I cannot because of the lead-rope that they’ve named “relationship”. Often, “relationship” is strained. I really want to relax and be an “Easy does it, Fergus…” but it is impossible because they themselves are not relaxed, and they want to “desensitize” me every day with something new and dreadful. I dream about it at night. This is really hard. Is there anything you can say to my people about “desensitize”?

Respectfully,
Fergus

Monty’s Answer:

Dear Fergus,

Thank you for (somehow) writing to me with your concerns. Most people think I help people with horse problems, but more often I help horses with people problems. I hope to help you get past this confusion about what we humans are asking of you, and why. When they say ‘Desensitize’, they want to help you worry less about spooky items you come across on the trail and in the yard. That’s a good thing, Fergus.

Being spooky is one of the most natural conditions in the world of equine behavior. Just as with so many terms in the horse world, it seems appropriate to define the term spooky. It seems important to me to be clear so that these words can be understood worldwide. We horsemen in America tend to say things like, “He sure is spooky.” We expect everybody to immediately understand that this means, ‘to be frightened.’

There is a big word in psychology for your fear of unfamiliar things, Fergus. The word is ‘neophobic’ which is a persistent and abnormal fear of anything new. Horses are neophobic but people can be, too. Young children like their world to remain constant and elderly people often cope using long established habits and don’t want to learn “new tricks”. You are big and strong, Fergus, and people worry you might hurt yourself, or them, if you “spook”. This is why they introduce you to new things. My goal is to help people learn to do this with adrenaline and heart rates that are low.

After my first book, The Man Who Listens to Horses, was published in 1996, I was asked to conduct demonstrations on a worldwide scale. One of the remedial problems brought to me on a regular basis was “the spooky horse.” While I had dealt with this sort of training for more than fifty years, I had no idea how serious the condition was until I began to travel extensively. Cases representing fear of plastic bags, birds, airplanes, trucks, tractors, umbrellas, cattle, sheep, hogs, and even the fear of bicycles, were brought to me on a regular basis.

The plastic shopping bag has become the definitive object to assist me in desensitizing the horse to objects that cause him to spook. They are extremely light and therefore can’t physically cause the horse any harm. I attach several bags to one end of a discarded rake handle (a small wooden pole approximately 1.5 meters or five feet in length). You can train the bag to go away Fergus. Here’s how.

After you and your human have accomplished a Join-Up, they show you the plastic bag on a stick. It will be scary at first, but when you relax and accept it, they will take the bag away and relax. You can too. When I do this with horses, soon I can swing a massive collection of plastic bags at the horse evoking no flight response. And soon the horse will accept other scary objects if I stay relaxed and he trusts that nothing painful will happen.

Recognizing that we are dealing with the true nature of the horse will soon produce a non-spooky individual. It is important to eliminate blame from the mind of the trainer. I instruct my students that the horse can have no fault in these matters and with that mindset one can expect positive results.

Over the past 20 years the more than 8000 horses I have dealt with in front of public audiences have virtually all come to me with a spooky mindset. I think that it is fair to say that there have been no failures. It’s important that we humans respect your nature, Fergus, and your right to fear unfamiliar objects while you journey to overcoming spookiness.

3/20/2013: Do you think with age come limitations in being able to become a better rider/ handler? I ask this because I am 46 years old and up until I bought Honey 5 years ago I hadn’t ridden or handled a horse in more than 20 years. I always think there is so much more to learn about horses but I wonder if I have left it all too late. I came to see Monty at a demo recently and it made me realize that it has taken him a lifetime to get where he is today and you too have had a wealth of experience.

Monty’s Answer, Part 2: [Go to Monty’s blog to read the entire article: http://www.montyroberts.com/latest-news/are-you-too-old-for-horses/]

As a realtor, Charlotte placed business at the peak of her interest and while she rode it was not her primary activity. Charlotte lives near our property in California and I watched in the past two years as she moved back into the area of serious horsemanship. Charlotte is now well over 50 and I watched her riding high-level dressage today. She is now riding five top class dressage prospects each day and having a lot of fun with it. Charlotte emphasized the fact that she worked hard at getting fit again and I can attest to the fact that she is in fantastic shape now, feels well and is having the time of her life with her favorite past time. It is a pleasure to watch Charlotte ride.

The second example that I am choosing to bring to you is an acquaintance that, to me, demonstrates amazingly well the answer to your question. The subject lady is 76 years of age at this writing. She rode occasionally through her teens and then took up, principally, Western pleasure riding in her 20s. She rode occasionally until 1970. At the age of 34 she launched a successful career as an artist. Our subject remained a popular artist and is to this day. In 2009 at the age of 73, she decided not only to ride again, but also to ride in Western competition. She did get herself in good physical condition and acquired a horse that was appropriate for her. She enlisted top notch coaching as well.

This past year with three years completed in her reentry into riding our subject vintage lady won a year-end championship in the Western division of nonprofessional “Working Cow Horse.” This means that she was working cattle at top speed and under conditions that would be considered challenging for anyone including riders in their 20s. She stated to me that she feels she is riding better now than she ever did in those early years of her horsemanship. She told me that she was now able to actually think things through more clearly and learn at a greater pace than she ever could in those early years. She respects her need for safety and has competed without negative incident.

It is important for me to state that these are two extreme examples. I am not suggesting that anyone, man or woman, needs to include competition with their riding, whether it is the beginning of their career or, as in this case, a reentry later in life. One may choose to ride strictly for pleasure or enter into activities that are slightly competitive, or, in fact, full on competition and as long as it is safe and enjoyable, I am all for it. In England, one of the slightly competitive activities is BHS Trek. There are many more fun elements of horsemanship, which are only slightly competitive. Probably the most often activity chosen is to simply ride with friends for the fun of it.

At 77 I can say that I feel myself still learning and I still ride. It is my opinion that while I can’t physically do many of the things that I did in my early professional career, I can understand the mental processes of learning better now than I ever could. Someone coined the phrase, “Use it or lose it” and I think that this is a fair statement to make. Your question gives me the chance to advise many individuals in that mid-life range that horses and riding can be a part of extending life and causing our vintage years to be more enjoyable if we choose to treat it with respect. I gave you two examples but believe me there are thousands out there, “Go for it, girl.”

3/13/2013: Do you think with age come limitations in being able to become a better rider/ handler? I ask this because I am 46 years old and up until I bought Honey 5 years ago I hadn’t ridden or handled a horse in more than 20 years. I always think there is so much more to learn about horses but I wonder if I have left it all too late. I came to see Monty at a demo recently and it made me realize that it has taken him a lifetime to get where he is today and you too have had a wealth of experience.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for sending through this question inquiring as to the potential for becoming a good horse person at the age of 46. Given recent experiences I’ve had, I’m very pleased to answer this question, as I believe that it has the potential to help many ladies and gentlemen too. To give you my feelings on this subject I would like to eliminate myself, as much as possible, from the scenario. My life on a horse’s back began well before I could speak and it has been seven decades now of intense riding and the studying of horsemanship and equine behavior involving many disciplines and virtually all breeds. It is my students and acquaintances that I would like to report on.

First let me say that I appreciate your concern and I hear within your question an attention to safety and what you can physically expect to accomplish. This is a good attitude and we should always respect the potential for moving forward only when we’re as safe as possible and as comfortable as we can be with the activity that we’re pursuing. Having said that, let me state categorically that I consider 46 to be a child. It is important that if there are years of reduced physical activity then it is a good idea to get one’s body in the best shape possible. Pilates and other forms of core stability fitness can be a tremendous advantage in the area of safety and even enjoyment.

Getting fit is great for one to enjoy their middle years and riding horses is simply a bonus in terms of increasing the potential for pleasure in those years. Do not lose sight of the fact that the choice of a safe horse is critical. Furthermore, the assistance of knowledgeable coaching is a major factor. The right coach will see to it that you are equipped appropriately which is another factor that definitely needs to be attended to if you are to enjoy your activity and remain safe while conducting it. One should do strong diligence on the individual chosen to assist in this effort and they should have significant experience with horses and the coaching of riders as well.

If you desire to take up riding again, then with the above-mentioned factors in place, you should charge into the project with great excitement. It can be a wonderful experience, as I will point out using two of my acquaintances as examples. Charlotte Bredahl was born in Denmark, rode as a child and came to the United States in 1979. She had been studying dressage and was considered a potential for high-level performance in her chosen discipline. Charlotte went to work in her 20s and made the US Olympic Team. She was the recipient of the bronze medal in dressage in the 1992 Barcelona Olympics. After returning to the US, Charlotte put riding on the back burner…

[To be continued next week!]

3/6/2013: What is the most important thing I should know about dealing with a two-month-old foal?

Monty’s Answer: The most important knowledge that I can impart to you is to be safe and work with your foal without violence and force. At two months of age, probably the most important factor is leading the foal alongside his mother. I suggest the use of the Foal Handler which is detailed in my book From My Hands to Yours and on my Equus Online University.

The Foal Handler is a length of one-inch-thick cotton rope joined in a configuration that makes a figure-eight. The length of this rope is determined by the size of the foal. The point where the rope comes together becomes a natural handle. The figure-eight can be adjusted to fit the intended foal. Please see my resources mentioned above to get all the correct details.

Make sure the mare and foal are in a safe enclosure with good footing. Some foals may be frightened, and take a bit of time to accept the Foal Handler. It is important to keep them safe during this acclimation period. I advise that a halter is first placed on the foal. Once haltered, put the Foal Handler on by sliding the smaller loop over the head of the foal and then drop the larger loop around the hindquarters.

In order to prepare your young one for the life experiences it will face, such as veterinary and farrier care, I further suggest that it is important to groom and pick up feet, encouraging your foal to stand and to be comfortable with you during these procedures. Most importantly, everyone will have fun if you are safe and work in the absence of violence.

2/27/2013: My young horse, who is 10 months old, needs farrier attention yet it seems to me that he is too young for Join-Up. What steps should I take before bringing in my farrier?

Monty’s Answer [Part 3 of 3 Parts]: You need your horse to allow you to work on all four legs while you are wearing loose-fitting chaps, which may frighten him and present a problem when the farrier visits. Most horses become accustomed to chaps within five to ten minutes without a much difficulty. On the day the farrier arrives, your student should have the person who has been working with him present for his first farrier procedure.

You should choose a place for this work that the horse is familiar with and one where you have accomplished a large part of your schooling. It should be a safe enclosure with good lighting so that the farrier can see the feet clearly. Good footing should be provided, and a firm, level surface should be available so that the farrier can judge the action of the feet as the horse walks away from, and back toward, the farrier.

You should have the Dually Halter on your student, and move through the procedure slowly so that he accepts the activity while staying calm and relaxed. Advise your farrier that you believe it is a good idea to pick the feet up and put them down a few times before working on the foot just to accustom the horse to the activity. It is also a good idea if the farrier picks up the foreleg briefly just before picking up the rear leg on that same side, to help prepare the horse for work on the hind foot.

If you find that you have done insufficient work to prepare your horse for the farrier, then stop the procedure at once and allow additional time for further schooling before reintroducing him to the farrier. Following these procedures, your farrier is likely to be a much happier member of your team than if he would be if required to deal with an unprepared horse. And just as important, your horse will be a much happier individual, likely to enjoy a lifetime of comfort with the farrier.

Anyone who owns a horse should read material written by notable farriers to better understand the importance of foot care. The old saying “No foot, no horse” is certainly valid. An owner should take the responsibility of being as informed as possible when it comes to this critical part of the horse’s anatomy. The informed owner will judge the farrier’s work by the angle, shape and health of the foot he helps to create, and not by the amount of material he removes.

Good luck with your foal’s training and let us know how it goes with all his new experiences.

Editor’s note: Did you miss Part 1 and 2 of Monty’s response? You can find the whole article here: http://www.montyroberts.com/articles/how-to-prepare-your-horse-for-the-farrier/

2/20/2013: My young horse, who is 10 months old, needs farrier attention yet it seems to me that he is too young for Join-Up. What steps should I take before bringing in my farrier? Kerry Milford

Monty’s Answer [Part 2 of 3 Parts]: The following procedure is for yearlings and older horses. I would suggest that your student be introduced to the round pen and go through one, two or three Join-Ups on successive days. Once Join-Up has been achieved and your horse is perfectly willing to follow you with his adrenaline down and volunteers to stay with you comfortably, I suggest that you put your student though two or three daily sessions with the Dually halter.

Once that has been accomplished, you are well on your way to having your horse stand comfortably while you pick up and deal with his feet. To begin the farrier-schooling process, you should first rub your horse over, or spray him, with insect repellent. He finds it
disconcerting if he has to stand on three legs and can’t stomp one to remove an insect. Once the repellent is applied, you can begin to pick each foot up repeatedly.

If, at this juncture, your horse is perfectly willing to give you one foot at a time and stand on the other three while you tap on the lifted foot and run a rasp over it, you are probably ready to give your farrier a call. If your student is reluctant, offers to kick, or refuses to allow you to tap or rasp the lifted foot, I suggest that you fabricate an “artificial arm.”

At this point, the good horseman should reflect on why a horse might react in this fashion. Each of us should quickly remember that the flight animal relies upon his legs to carry him to flee for survival. We should immediately understand that acting out violently toward the horse does nothing but convince him that we are predators and out to cause him harm. Delivering pain to your student is absolutely inappropriate.

To make an artificial arm like the one I use to train horses that are difficult for the farrier, you will need the following items:

1. An old rake or broom handle, cut 3 feet (approx. 1 meter) long, or a hardwood cane with a straight-handle grip, not curved grip.
2. One heavy-duty work glove.
3. One sleeve of a discarded sweatshirt or heavy work shirt.
4. One roll of electrical, gaffer or duct tape.

Place the glove over one end of the pole and fill it with straw or shavings. Slide the sleeve into place so that the cuff can be taped at the wrist portion of the work glove. Fill the sleeve with sponge, straw or shavings, and tape the upper end of the sleeve to secure the material inside. You should have approximately one foot (30 cm) of uncovered pole for easy handling.

I’m finding it fun for me, at this stage in my life, that innovative students, encouraged to keep open minds, are making some very interesting discoveries. Kelly Marks is the director of the original Monty Roberts courses in England. She brought Ian Vandenberghe to be an instructor in my concepts. Ian came up with an idea that is very helpful, particularly for small, female trainers. He concluded that if the arm had a stiff thumb on it, the handler could, at the appropriate moment, slide the thumb down behind the rear leg, stopping at the pastern.

Using the padded thumb, the handler could actually lift the hind leg without placing her own arm in jeopardy. I was on tour in England when I received a very difficult horse, with a strong desire to kick. The English team brought me Ian’s improved arm and I found it very effective.
If your equine student wants to kick the artificial arm, do not discourage him. Return the arm to the position that bothered the horse until the horse accepts it anywhere you want to put it.

Begin using the arm by massaging the body, shoulders and hips of the horse before proceeding to his legs. You can even rub the belly, and up between the hind legs. Spend considerable time in the area of the flank, as it will be often touched by the farrier’s shoulder. Bad habits can get started if the horse is still sensitive in the flank area before the leg-lifting
procedures begin. Use the arm to massage all four legs until the horse is perfectly happy dealing with the procedure.

If you are dealing with an extremely flighty or dangerous horse, you may consider using an assistant so that one person can control the head while the other uses the arm. Remember, if the horse acts out or pulls his leg away from you, drop the leg immediately and then school with the Dually Halter. This will not be necessary with most horses that are raised domestically, but it could be an advantage with mustangs or horses raised with little human contact.

Be alert and watch for improvement, and when you get it, remove the arm from that position at once and go to the other side of the horse to continue working. Your student will regard this as reward for not kicking, and is likely to quickly improve. With your student cooperating fully when you pick up all four feet and tap and rasp, ask your farrier if he has an old pair of farrier’s chaps that he can lend you, if you don’t own a pair yourself.

[to be continued]

2/13/13: My young horse, who is 10 months old, needs farrier attention yet it seems to me that he is too young for Join-Up. What steps should I take before bringing in my farrier? Kerry Milford

Monty’s Answer [Part 1 of 3 Parts]:
Thank you for your timely question. This week we have added a sixth farrier lesson to the Equus Online University. Students should ask their farriers to watch along with them as they learn from world renowned farrier Ada Gates showing us how she achieves a balanced foot and objective farriery. Farriers will appreciate that these owners are willing to prepare their horses for the farrier’s visit.

I remember, as a child, my father telling me that he had never been to a dentist and that he hated the thought of ever having to go. I remember my first visit vividly. I was totally unprepared, scared to death, and hated every minute of it. By the time our children made their first visit to the dentist, times had changed dramatically, and our family dentist was willing to take the time for a mock visit, where an assistant explained to the children the value of dentistry, and educated them about the great lengths taken to keep it pain free.

Consequently, our children have never feared the dentist, and our family has enjoyed a much improved dental environment than from my childhood. This is precisely the message that I believe to be applicable when preparing your horse to deal with the farrier. Let’s first address your question about Join-Up®.

Once your foal has been weaned and no longer calls out for his mother, he is ready for his Join-Up sessions. Accomplishing Join-Up is a great way for your foal to enter that period of his life when his mother is no longer a factor. Properly done, it will promote an understanding between weanling and human that will be beneficial lifelong. I recommend two or three Join-Up sessions on consecutive days. Be gentle and patient with foals as they are small and ultra-sensitive.

Doing too many Join-Up sessions at this stage is usually counterproductive. It is a little like often telling a child the same story; the foal will come to resent it and exhibit gestures of anger. Prudently accomplished, two or three Join-Up sessions will allow you to live by the concepts of Join-Up throughout the relationship with your horse.

The post Join-Up work with the Dually Halter should proceed until you achieve strong signs of willingness and relaxation. Then, you can move on to accomplish other goals. The Dually is very effective for schooling a horse to stand for the farrier or the veterinarian. The Dually halter will also help a horse load into a trailer, walk into a starting gate (starting stalls), walk through water, stand for mounting or any other handling problems.

Any person preparing a horse to be trimmed or shod by the farrier should take this responsibility seriously. I have seen extremely wild and fractious horses that require a week or more to be prepared for the farrier’s visit. During this training period the sessions might take up to an hour a day. Half-hour sessions twice a day are not a bad idea.

In every country I have visited, I have found that some people believe that the farrier can educate the horse himself when it comes to standing and behaving while the footwork is done. This is an unacceptable mind-set. A farrier is a professional and should be treated as such. His expertise is to care for your horse’s feet, not to train him. While it is true that some farriers are also good horsemen and quite capable of doing the training, most horse owners do not plan to pay the farrier for training services.

The farrier often feels that he is being taken advantage of and should not be required to take the time necessary to train. This can result in short tempers, and horses dealt with in an inappropriate way. While farriers are generally physically fit, muscular and capable of administering harsh treatment, should something like this occur, the blame should rest with the people securing their services, and not the farrier. Starting to prepare your horse to meet the farrier should preferably be done just after weaning, but you might inherit an older horse that has not had this education.

2/6/2013: Thank you for changing my life and my horses with your work, books, demonstrations and online university. I have a question about my horse who I’ve had for nearly 20 years. He’s an Irish Thoroughbred out at grass all year. When he is fed his food in a bucket he paws the ground and digs himself a hole!

I have tried giving him space but not a lot makes a difference. I watch other people on my yard with their horses standing next to them with a whip and smacking then each time they do it. Clearly that doesn’t work. Some people put wheelbarrows next to the horse to stop it and again it doesn’t work. Does my horse do this to protect his food from others? Is there anything I can do to stop it or make him feel less anxious around feed time?

I look forward to seeing you on tour in February where I will be bringing one of my PTSD patients with me to see your work!

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. It gives me the opportunity to once again speak to the issue of people bothering horses while they eat. I often say to students to think about how they would feel if someone was actively dealing with them as they ate their meal. Even the act of grooming is generally viewed by the horse as an intrusion as to what they perceive to be their private time to eat. This is a natural behavioral pattern.

Horses in the wild eat, if possible, for sustained periods of time. In addition, they will engage in grazing 4, 5 or 6 times during the course of a 24 hour period. In domestication we humans often make it convenient for ourselves by feeding our horses twice a day on average. All students of the horse should realize that they only have two goals in life. One is to survive and the other is to reproduce. Eating is an essential part of survival.

In the DNA of Equus, their body tends to tell them that they are about to starve to death when they go for 10-12 hours without eating. This means that there is an anxiety build up which tends to elevate adrenalin and results in expressions of stress. Pawing, kicking, pacing and even chasing humans away from their anticipated food source are natural expressions of stress and anxiety.

The diligent horseman can assist their horse quite easily. If it’s possible to add a third or even a fourth feeding throughout the daylight hours, it will tend to reduce these expressions of stress. Obviously if your horse is maintaining an optimum weight then one would divide the same amount of feed into the additional sessions. This action will ensure that the horse actually eats the same caloric volume that he/she was getting with the two times a day schedule.

I realize that this action is not always possible. If one is obliged to remain on the twice per day feeding regime then there are things that we can do to help reduce the inconvenience of the stress pattern. Pawing or digging is often the most annoying behavior we see. Large holes near the feeding area are regularly experienced in these cases.

With that in mind I recommend placing the feed in a tub that is stabilized with a very heavy ring of some sort. Often a large tire will stabilize their food tub. Recognizing that I suggest that horses should eat at the earth’s surface level as it is the normal head position of the eating horse in natural surroundings, the tire should be placed on the ground. If digging occurs outside the feeding mechanism then one should place the tire on rubber stall mats.

Generally two average size stall mats will accommodate. The horse will still paw but the hole won’t occur and the horse’s foot will remain healthier. If kicking the wall is included in this stressful behavior then placing the entire feeding area as far from a fence or wall as possible is a viable solution.

Hitting the horse or causing the horse pain is absolutely ineffective and will, in fact, cause problems in many other areas of the relationship you have with your horse. It is my hope that these ideas will set your brain on a path to use logical and natural solutions in the absence of force or demand.

Please let us know how it goes. I look forward to meeting you this month in England and meeting your PTSD patient.

1/29/2013: After 20 years of raising children, I have returned to the world of horses that I missed very much. I started with lessons to build confidence and have recently purchased a 15 year old gelding named Ralph who is a great fit for me as a rider and new owner. Ralph is very well
trained in dressage and has good ground manners. However, he has issues with riding in the indoor arena.

He is easily distracted and ‘spooked’ by various things. There is a vinyl banner sign at one end that he dislikes. I can’t keep him on the track when passing it. And even when shortening the track keeping us about 3-4 feet out, he will skirt sideways quickly or run forward when passing it. Also, when he kicks up the dirt footing when trotting along the track, the sound of it hitting the tin wall causes him to run forward. Sometimes we can get a good chunk of a lesson in for about 10-15 minutes of focused attention and it is wonderful but then he will overreact to something again.

For example, during a very good lesson, another student in the lesson was too warm and took her vest off and placed it in the corner. When Ralph and I came around that corner again he stopped dead, spread his forelegs wide, leaned his head down and flared his nostrils. I pushed him on forward and it took about 6 circles in the same corner for him to accept it as non-threatening. And for the rest of the lesson every time we passed it, he was slightly distracted. I have been told that I need to accept that he is simply a ‘looky’ or ‘twitchy’ kind of horse and to ride ready for anything. He has probably always been that way and will always be that way, but I’m not sure I believe that. Maybe I just don’t want to believe it because it’s taking the fun out of riding.

What’s happening now is that my own anxiety is climbing which is contributing to the problem. And I find myself wanting to ride with crop and spurs now (which I have never done). But I know this is simply a reaction to my own fear and wanting to control the horse or intimidate him into being more scared of me than what he is already afraid of so I haven’t yet. My concern is that my own escalating anxiety will escalate his as well.

So, finally, my question is: how do I desensitize Ralph to an entire environment? I have watched the online videos at the Uni and I understand the incremental approach when it involves a ‘stream’ or plastic bag or poles, etc but I am having a hard time translating that approach to an entire structure and the environment of the indoor riding arena. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Monty’s Answer: Welcome to the real world of dealing with a spooky horse. My riding these days is limited to a horse you have probably seen on my Equus Online Uni lessons called Nice Chrome. He is a ‘twin brother’ to your horse where touchy, feely, and spooky is concerned. I can’t’ count the number of times I have been told that it is hopeless to deal with his issues. They say just acknowledge it and get over it.

Chrome is still spooky, touchy and feely but I am able to contend with certain challenges that were impossible when I took him over at three years of age. There is still a high pulse rate and adrenalin level but the volatility has subsided substantially. We do not have to accept danger with this personality feature. It is, in fact, a fantastic advantage when seeking a horse that is able to rise to world class performance.

Sensitivity is essential to achieving high marks in virtually every discipline that we deal with. Horses that lack elements of sensitivity are wonderful for therapeutic riding and educating entry level riders but it’s difficult to cause them to rise to laudable performances in the areas of competition which include dressage, show jumping, reining, cutting and the like. It is important however that you remain safe.

In a high percentage of cases regarding horses that are less than comfortable in indoor arenas, it happens that they express their concerns because they had bad experiences in that building. This is not always the case but it is well over the majority. The challenges that you have outlined in your question would indicate to me that one could deal with these elements, while remaining safe, if the horse was being led by another horse with a rider on his back.

I am thinking of things like the sand on the wall in particular. Spending time actively in the building without the rider on would tend to reduce the anxiety level. I might also suggest that one consider, if possible, placing some sort of enclosure in the building and causing the horse to spend substantial periods of time just existing in that building. Each of these suggestions would follow a litany of ideas that I recommend for spooky horses.

The Equus Online Uni has several lessons that outline the procedures that I typically utilize for spooky horses. A horse like this would complete that list over and over again and in various locations to more deeply imprint the acceptance of them. Good luck, stay in touch and let us know how it’s going.

1/22/2013: When I first joined your Equus Online Uni, I thought that every Join-Up should be as Monty does them, school examples with all four signs usually one after another in order, like Monty explains in From My Hands to Yours. Then I went to Hungary to Monty’s Certified Instructor Kata Pataky (she is absolutely GREAT) and I did 3 to 4 Join-Ups, and EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THEM was DIFFERENT! The most important thing is the communication, the horse’s willingness to Join-Up with you! You don’t have to get the school example of Join-Up, right?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. First of all it gives me a chance to address this issue once again. The fact that it keeps coming up is evidence that I am not doing very well at explaining it thoroughly. It is great to hear of your experience with Kata Pataky. She is a special person for us and we are proud of her achievements. We have every confidence that she will become a great teacher.

One must realize that students can only take a certain amount of specifics with them from their early lessons. It is important for me to remember that my students will retain certain perceptions that may be slightly different from how I stated them. One thing I am absolutely certain of is that I have never said that the gestures expressed by horses have an absolute pattern. I have always stated that these gestures can come in virtually any order. I go on to say that there are percentages regarding the order, but no certainties.

The ear is ALMOST always the first gesture we see. The smaller circle is MOST GENERALLY the second gesture we see. Licking and chewing is GENERALLY the third gesture expressed and dropping the head is MORE TIMES THAN NOT the last gesture of the four. There is nothing sacred about this order. I often express the opinion that it is a conversation, so never steeped in certainty. I must be more diligent about how I present Join-Up to the entry level student.

Once you have accomplished a working level of the communication system of Equus, you will probably learn how to carry on a conversation as opposed to a memorized list. When you can relax and exchange information with your horse you will be practicing Join-Up in its truest form. It should be fun for the horse person but more importantly fun for the horse as well. Good luck with your education into the world of non-violent horse training.

1/16/2013: I have the most amazing pony for the show ring but I have a huge problem with her she will not stand in the lineup in the ring. When they are called in to the center she just will not stand and then will rear continuously and just gets so worried. Please can you help me? She is unbeaten when she stands but this is very rare. She also hates clapping it gets her so upset and makes the whole situation worse! I would love some of you advice.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for giving me the opportunity to once again address the issue that you describe in your question. It is a fact that a question similar to yours comes up globally about a hundred to 200 times per year. It is probably second only to “my horse or pony won’t load”. Your question is word-for-word virtually identical to the one asked of me by Simon Charlesworth who trains in the area of Newmarket in England.

Simon was training a horse of the highest caliber seen in the entire UK in the year 2012. Simon was forced to retire Pearly King from classes due to the very behavior that you have described in your question. When he stood and, for whatever reason, was relaxed and controllable on the day, he was an undefeated winner of ridden classes. I was asked to travel to Newmarket and deal with Pearly King for one day.

As it turns out Simon Charlesworth is the best student anyone could hope for. He must have listened to every word I said, logged it in an organized brain and then put it to work in a flawless manner. Pearly King responded beautifully and was undefeated subsequent to the work we did. Pearly King qualified for the Horse of the Year Show, was the champion ridden horse and went on to be the “supreme champion ridden horse of the UK 2012”.

So the question is “what the heck did we do?” Well, I can tell you that every student of my Equus Online University has been made fully aware of the principles I used with Pearly King. First and foremost were the lessons on the use of the Dually Halter. After that there were the principles of standing to mount. Then there was standing while mounted. I realize that it is not helpful to simply be exposed to these lessons — the challenge is learning how to execute them.

Simon Charlesworth not only listened but he must have worked very hard at implementing these lessons. Simon went on to use the recommended electronic sounds of applause and other frightening auditory experiences. He must have had them going for hours on end in Pearly King’s stable. When he entered competition Pearly King was able to stand with his tail toward the audience while they were cheering for him.

While their performance was fantastic, it left a lot of viewers with the idea that he was just a fantastic horse who expressed fire and sizzle when it was appropriate and then was quiet and relaxed when he needed to be. The fact is it wasn’t easy for him and out of the woodwork came pony and horse owners asking the same question you asked here. It is not possible to describe each element in an answer such as this. You must learn them.

In the autumn of 2012 a young girl brought a pony to Myerscough College near Preston. He was very much like Pearly King and the little girl had been called in to go for the championship at The Horse of the Year Show. The pony was a real challenge when asked to line up and was excused from the ring, banished from the competition. We were able to make a huge difference in this pony in the 30 minute session.

This particular demonstration is in the queue at the moment to be a Uni lesson. Send in as many letters as you want requesting that the demonstration on standing still be used as soon as possible. It was a great experience for me; a fantastic improvement in the life of the pony. But most of all I had a young lady and her mother with smiles on their faces like never before. Request it, and then watch for it.

1/9/2013: Here in Sweden we often use a normal halter. I have just been to a clinic with natural horsemanship inspiration and they told me I have to use a training halter made out of rope. I have used the Dually halter on my horse and it works very nice, but I don´t understand how the rope halter can be a training halter. Can you explain the difference between or the similarities between a Dually halter and a rope halter?

Monty’s Answer: It is my opinion that a knotted rope halter is not a training halter at all. A training halter, like my Dually halter works in the absence of pain and it is my opinion that training halters should not cause pain. Knotted rope halters can localize pressure in different places on a horse’s face giving a painful signal, causing fear and discomfort. One might ask then how the Dually trains the horse. In fact, it doesn’t. The horse actually trains himself.

The Dually should be sized comfortably to the horse’s head. It should fit just snugly enough to slide a finger between the flat nylon and the horse’s hair. The soft nylon round rope over the nose fits more loosely and glides easily over the nose. When the handler clips her lead onto the training ring, the horse is free to choose to walk along with his handler or not. When the horse keeps up with the handler, the Dually is comfortable.

When the horse does not stay with the handler, the halter twists slightly and becomes less comfortable. As soon as he comes off the twist, the rope becomes instantly more comfortable. Horses are quick to learn where the halter sits comfortably and will stay there. Whether the handler is pulling forward or asking the horse to back, the horse will find the more comfortable range.

This speaks to my concept that choice for the horse is a critical goal. Choice is at the heart of my training so that you keep the training sessions positive. Pain is counter-productive to creating a willing student. With the Dually, the horse actually inculpates his own actions. Being into pressure animals, they need to learn for themselves how to come off of pressure
to get comfort from the twist that is unique to the Dually training halter.

1/2/2013: I absolutely love the peaceful feeling that comes when a horse and I join up and the wonderful relationship that I have with the horses I work with as a result. I feel a lot of responsibility towards a horse that has chosen to follow me, and every interaction afterwards becomes a humbling experience.

I am having an interesting dilemma, however, because I teach riding lessons and the lesson horses (Clydesdales) now want to follow me at times that I don’t want them to. I have adapted this to my advantage with my very beginning riders – a big focus of my riding program is on keeping the horses happy and responsive, so having a horse follow me
in a big circle while the student gets to practice giving light cues is great, and with more advanced beginners I give cues with my body to the horse to help him know what the student is trying to ask for and the student doesn’t realize I am helping.

The rest of the time, though, it is a problem because when a student becomes hesitant or fumbling on the cues, the horses decide to focus on me instead. Then he will either come to me in the ring and try to follow me or will ignore the rider completely and respond to me. The same thing is starting to happen with my apprentice and one of the horses that I assigned to her for extra work.

How do I distinguish clearly when the horses should focus on or follow me and when they should be focused on their riders? How can I do this without jeopardizing the bond between myself and the horse or without confusing the horse?

Thank you so much for the opportunity to ask my question. I have talked to several natural horsemanship trainers in my area and they haven’t been able to answer or to really understand why I have this concern; it seems to take different methods to train multiple riders on multiple horses than it does to train owner-horse teams.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. I am pleased you have focused your riding program on keeping the horses happy and responsive. The Clydesdale, as a breed, is gentle, quiet and well suited for beginner lessons. I applaud the conditions you have set up for your students and your teachers, the horses. You have created a clear line of leadership that serves you well for the needs of beginners. As you say, however, this does create challenges for more advanced students.

Clydesdales are not ultra-sensitive horses and therefore you are safe to have your horse follow you as long as you remain aware of where your horse is at all times. You are clear and fair to your horse when he is able to focus on you and your actions. It is not fair to the student or the horse when the leadership is confused in the arena, as in the case of cues coming from both you and the rider.

You should consider teaching from the fence once your beginners can be on their own on a gentle horse. It should not be confusing if one understands the language of the horse, Equus. Just as carrying on two conversations at once is confusing for people, it can be for horses too. If you are asking the horse to turn left and your student has asked the horse to turn right, there is sure to be frustration.

12/26/2012: Clipping… I recently attended a Demo at Ingliston in Scotland — after much desensitizing work, and controlling my own breathing and adrenaline, I managed to clip all of Lloyd, with the exception of his face (about 4 inches down from his jaw line) the top of his legs, his belly and chest. Unfortunately I couldn’t get to these so needed to have him sedated. Is there any advice you can give as having Lloyd accept me clipping his tummy area?? I know that this is his tickly bits but I can now run the polythene bags around this area without too much bother, the tooth brush is also fine, it just appears to be the actual clippers?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. It gives me an opportunity to speak for an incremental treatment of challenges such as this. If your horse is fine with the toothbrush which is producing electrical sounds and vibrations, then you are well on your way to successfully clipping the areas where the toothbrush is acceptable to him.

What we need to do now is think of articles which produce slightly more sound, slightly more vibration and yet are accepted by him. Let’s investigate. Possibly there is a toothbrush which is slightly larger and louder. There is any number of battery powered instruments which could be used to slightly raise the bar. Don’t lose sight of the fact that a hair dryer might be helpful.

Since all hair dryers are accompanied by an electrical cord one must be careful not to have an accident occur where the cord is around a leg or is damaged by some fractious act. One might consider the use of a pulsating spray device attached to the end of a garden hose. This can be helpful with repeated belly baths for several days until he stands quietly while being drenched.

A young lady in England told me about using the spray nozzle in conjunction with a battery powered electric toothbrush. Once your horse will stand perfectly calm as you dry his belly with the hair dryer, begin to massage these critical areas with the heel of the clippers. One does not want the teeth of the clipper to ever cause him any pain or you’re back to square one.

This problem is purely down to repetition and the gradual raising of the bar through an incremental use of instruments that are slightly more challenging over a sustained period of time. It will be fun for you to take up this challenge because I am absolutely certain that when you get your most innovative mind at work you will, without question, find the answer to your problem.

12/19/2012: My name is Kayleigh. I’m 17 and have been riding since I was 11 and around horses my entire life. I’d just like to say I love your work. About a month or so before I discovered your work I was ready to give up on horses all together. I was raised using gentle yet still conventional methods of breaking horses and I was so relieved when I found your work.

I went to see you at Caboolture (Australia) a little while ago and I loved it and even convinced my mother to try something different. So I have a question for you. A few years back I bought a pair of 2 year old stock x quarter horse that shared a mother. The people that owned them (who we bought them from) treated them like they were children. They never had a rope pull on them, let alone a halter.

When we tried to load them into a float (trailer) they both had a big scare, the gelding got over it quickly and became relatively bomb proof. I sold the gelding on soon after to a natural horsemanship home. So since then I have been battling with this taffy stock x quarter horse mare.

Initially her main issues were with being tied up, which I think mostly was based from the trauma in the float. We overcame this with a local natural horsemanship guru. Next was the tendency to rear, and be highly excitable and reactive. It has only been the last few months when we have begun to overcome the rearing. She is still highly reactive and excitable. She is the fastest mare I’ve ever ridden she has a amazing build and movement. So I was never keen to sell her, as I was also worried no one else would give her the time of day and she’d end up dogged.

She is so reactive and you can feel the tension build up in her when she is getting anxious until there is a big outburst of head down, bottom up bucking and then the process starts again. She has also been buddy sour her whole life. Join-Up has helped a lot.

However my main problem lately is that fifteen minutes into a work out / ride she loses her easy lope and will become thrashy in her stride and puts a snarl on her face until I get off. I have tried varying her work out; trails, bareback, jumping, barrels (which I sometimes compete with her in). I don’t know what to do, how to keep her happy for longer than 15 minutes.

I have just finished school and am ready to give her 100% and try and work out how to work best with her. I owe this mare everything, without her I wouldn’t be half the rider I am today. All I want to do is try to help her enjoy my company. I would really appreciate it if you could reply with any advice you might think would help.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. It is quite difficult to answer this question when I can´t see the actions of the mare. I will try to make some suggestions that I feel could quite possibly assist you. The first thing to take into consideration is your horse’s physical well being. I strongly suggest that you call on a veterinarian to examine your mare for possible causes of pain.

The second thing that I would recommend is to cause the horse to become completely cooperative with the Dually halter. This will reduce stress levels and pulse rates. I might suggest that you ride her with a Dually halter under the bridle. When she begins to act inappropriately, step off of her and school with the Dually until she is relaxed and cooperative.

It is further my recommendation that, if in fact the mare has been given a clean bill of health from a veterinarian, you attempt to make your riding sessions as long as possible and covering as much ground as possible. It sounds to me like you must work through these challenges instead of stopping with short sessions. Please inform us how things are going.

12/12/2012: Are you in favor of training horses with a clicker?

Monty’s Answer [Part 3]: “During the course of loading and unloading, the filly began playing with Monty and jumping onto the trailer doing little things like prancing next to Monty showing how brave she was. It was obvious that she was very happy with herself. She seemed to be saying, ‘Finally someone is speaking my language.’ I really could feel her joy and happiness…the humans were finally getting it right.”

“It was then my turn, one of Monty’s students brought me a young Thoroughbred gelding that wouldn’t load. The owners relied on heavy drugs to load him. Monty states categorically that he will not use drugs of any kind in the training process. I did my first round pen Join-Up with this particular horse.”

“I was quite clumsy compared to Linda and a complete oaf when compared to Monty, yet I still succeeded. Monty guided me on how to use my eyes and my body to achieve Join-Up…what a feeling! I then worked with the Dually halter getting the gelding to move his feet upon request. I paired an audible click with a rub between the eyes when he did it right. I felt that Monty could appreciate the clicking now that I was pairing it with the rub and not the food. Sometimes we have to compromise to make our point.”

“After a few minutes, I took my Thoroughbred to the trailer and worked on loading him. He was very good, and I got him on the trailer rather easily. We ended on a good note, and we were really looking forward to the next day.”

DAY THREE
“Monty asked us to switch animals, so I did Join-Up with the mustang filly and Linda accomplished the same with my Thoroughbred gelding. We were both successful. Linda worked hard on marking good effort with her gelding using click and rub. The horse was much improved when compared to the day before.”

“After successful work with these two horses, Monty sent Linda to a paddock to get a little bay mustang gelding. Linda brought this horse to the round pen as Monty whispered to me that it was Shy Boy. Linda did Join-Up with Shy Boy and didn’t know who he was until it was over. When we told her she looked like she was going to burst. It seemed to be the highlight of her trip.”

“After lunch Monty brought two mustangs for us to work with. They were quite wild, but soon cooperative. I can’t believe how incredibly giving, soft and perfect the mustangs were. I almost cried when I did Join-Up with mine. It was so moving. It is hard to explain, but mustangs are very different from domesticated horses. I think Monty described them as “pure” and he is right."

“We took them to the trailer and Linda and I both loaded our respective mustangs. It was really exciting because once they start to give you their trust, they don’t hold back. I think Monty felt great satisfaction in seeing our enjoyment. He truly loves doing this work. Despite being an incredibly busy man with many demands on his time, I think he is happiest being around the horses and training them. The happiness shines out of his smile when the human and the horse get it right.”

“What we accomplished in teaching Monty about clicker training, I really don’t know. If all we did is get him to distinguish between clicker training and indiscriminate hand feeding, then I feel we accomplished a lot. If we have started an exchange of ideas between the two
communities, it will be an amazing accomplishment. I really like Monty, and I think he is an incredible horse trainer.”

“Monty loves the horses and that is apparent. He repeatedly stated that respect is a fine line and it is not spelled F-E-A-R. We need to offer as much respect to the horse as we expect to get in return. I believe that Monty has brought to the horse world a new understanding.”

12/5/2012: Are you in favor of training horses with a clicker?

Monty’s Answer: Kim decided on her own to invite another professional clicker trainer to come with her. Linda Pearson from England made the trip, and they arrived on January 11 at about 9:00 a.m. I loved the opportunity to study with these two ladies. For three days we dealt with several classes of horses, raw, remedial and well trained. After returning to their respective homes, Kim and Linda each sent me a letter, and I will quote for you the essential elements of each of their writings.

DAY ONE
“My name is Kim Cassidy, and I am a professional horse trainer who uses clicker training. While walking around the Equine Affaire event, I happened to watch a small portion of a Monty Roberts demonstration. I wrote him a letter about my dissatisfaction with some things he said about hand feeding and clicker training.”

“To my surprise, Monty responded to me personally. Following the exchange of a few emails, I was invited to Flag Is Up Farms. I decided to invite Linda Pearson to join me on my trip to California. Linda is from the UK and has studied Monty’s work for approximately ten years. She has successfully integrated his work with clicker training. Linda and I arrived expecting to work with trainers and maybe see Monty periodically. Well, we rounded the corner of the training barn and there was Monty himself.”

“After introductions and a short discussion about the three-day format, we proceeded to the training barn. Monty allowed us full access to a young horse that was sent to him because of biting. He told us that the horse had been trained using the clicker method. He allowed us to condition the horse to the clicking. I found this horse to be a real challenge, and Monty did not seem to be happy that there were no negative consequences when the horse decided to mug me.”

“I didn’t feel I had enough time to display clicker training properly, but we moved on to a mustang filly. Linda and I found an extremely nervous horse, spinning in her stall and jumping out of her skin. Not much was accomplished and Monty appeared within a few minutes to agree that we should take up work with this filly in the round pen the following day.”

“I was very discouraged after the first day, and Linda was too. We didn’t feel we made much progress. We did not showcase clicker training in a very good light, especially compared to the results Monty gets. Despite all of this, we were invited back for round two the next morning. That evening I found Linda ready to quit and go back home. She said, ‘We felt like complete failures and that everything he had said proved him right.’”

DAY TWO
“Linda and I showed up at 9:00 in the morning and returned to the stall of the first horse. Monty took over the training of the colt and anytime he invaded Monty’s space, he was corrected, or as Monty calls it, schooled. This means he used the Dually® halter whenever he invaded Monty’s space. The horse definitely improved dramatically. Monty’s timing was perfect…he was not abusing the horse, but he was using pressure unlike I would do in clicker training.”

“Linda and I explained that we believed this horse had been trained badly and that someone had used indiscriminate hand feeding along with clicker training. We explained again that we were against indiscriminate hand feeding…we are in full agreement with Monty on this.”
“Next we went to the nervous mustang filly. She has been sent to the farm for trailer loading problems. The owner said that she couldn’t get her on the trailer unless she was heavily tranquilized. Monty invited Linda to do a Join-Up® with the filly in his round pen. Linda did what I consider to be a beautiful Join-Up and demonstrated to Monty that after Join-Up she could use treat less clicks to show the benefit of an audible marker signal.”

“This was my first experience with real round pen training, and I must say it was beautiful to watch. I know others do it as well, but it was really like magic and the filly became calm and happy. It was clear that she was completely relaxed. Monty then spent about thirty minutes getting her onto and off a trailer. He used very little pressure, and it was amazing to watch.”

“Monty has a quiet about him. He is never rushed, and he does not get agitated. He does not get involved with the “drama” that the horse is exhibiting. This seems to be a characteristic of all good trainers, and something I will take away with me and add to my training program. I have heard many clicker trainers speak of this before, but it was helpful for me to see it used effectively by someone else."

[to be continued]

11/28/2012: Are you in favor of training horses with a clicker?

Monty’s Answer [Part 1]: I was working as a clinician in Springfield, Massachusetts at an event that is a major equine exposition called Equine Affaire. During the course of this event, I was asked to work with several remedial horses. One was brought to me with advice from the owner that the horse was very aggressive and dangerous about biting.

During the course of my work, I communicated with the owner and was told that the horse had been trained with the use of the technique called ‘clicker training.’ She went on to say that treats were used as a reward for the behavior desired. This horse would actually stalk me and charge with ears back and mouth open. He was a four-year-old gelding far too dangerous for anyone except a professional accustomed to dealing with this problem.

While working with him, I said the following words, "This is an example of why I tell my students that I am not a fan of clicker training, especially when it involves rewards in the form of food offered from the human body. I explained that when food is associated with the human body it produces horses that bite. I believe this and hold that opinion to this day. I was able to improve the horse’s attitude in a thirty-minute session, but one could never say that I produced a certain cure.

I advised the owner to stop feeding from the hand. I told my audience that the clicker part of clicker training is no problem for me. An audible marker signal, in my opinion, can be useful as a part of any training system. The clicker is the audible marker signal. The food acts as the reward for the desired behavior. I realize that some people use clicker training more effectively than others and some are downright inept with this science.

After returning home to California, I received two emails from professional clicker trainers. Each admonished me strongly that clicker training can be a very effective method. They told me that I was criticizing clicker training because of problems I had with horses that were trained badly. One of the professional trainers was Kim Cassidy from New York.

After exchanging two or three emails, I found Kim to be open-minded and quite interested in exploring my work. I realize that she wanted me to understand more about clicker training, and I believe hopefully to change my mind about the concept. I invited her to come to Flag Is Up and…lo and behold, she accepted my invitation!

[to be continued]

11/21/2012: Is there such a thing as force-free dressage?

Monty’s Answer [Part 2]: A few years ago I came to meet Imke Bartels. Once more I found someone who took kind measures all the way to a European Championship in Dressage. I have the greatest respect for these two ladies and I am convinced that the outstanding horses that they are connected with are quietly teaching them that violence is never the answer.

Recently I came to know Stefan Peters whom I believe to be as good a communicator with horses as there is in the world of professional competition. Stefan took his non-violent methods to a world Championship in Dressage. Born in Germany I’m sure Stefan has seen the old methods in use, but he is currently changing them dramatically.

While I have not been personally involved with Carl Hester the reports that are coming through to me are that Mr. Hester is bringing a new dimension to the quiet, non-violent training of dressage horses. At the same time Carl is rising to the top of the list in the world of dressage. The recent Olympics speak to his excellence.

No one should get the idea that any discipline we conduct is perfect. Changes can always be made to more effectively meet the needs of our horses if we simply keep working at it. I have been a strong part of the reduction of the use of the whip in racing and my work is paying off. The world is much better for racehorses now.

In my early years I was an instrumental part of the abolishment of the ‘running W’ in the movie industry. It was a method of tripping horses at full speed. I am a proponent of banning the brutal ways of the Omak suicide race where jumping horses off a cliff into a river was considered entertainment. It was brutal.

Yes, if attention is paid to the scoring of Championship dressage horses, then the methods will be altered to produce a happy horse. If we have happy horses then we know we have reduced the violence in their training. If anyone of my readers can influence the world of competition rule making, then please become involved.

The wonderful horses in our lives deserve every effort that we can make to reduce the act of saying ‘you must’. It is a matter of ask and not demand. Violence is never the answer. Violence is always for the violator and never for the victim. No one of us was born with the right to say ‘you must or I’ll hurt you’ to any creature, animal or human.
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Editor’s note: Watch guest lecturer video lessons from top level riders in Dressage, such as Charlotte Bredahl and J.J. Tate and learn their force-free dressage methods!

11/14/2012: I’m a 23 year old Dutch student and I have been riding since I was 5 years old. I have always followed the conventional methods of the German and Dutch dressage school but since I became familiar with your methods about 7 years ago when visiting a Monty Roberts demonstration, I’ve gone in and out of a kind of existential crisis. I believe firmly in your methods and beliefs, but thinking of them I find it difficult to integrate the Join-Up principles in the dressage school. This has led me to consider a totally different approach to my horse and to abandon dressage in favor of a more natural way of enjoying my mare. But my question to you would be; is my understanding correct? Is it really true that dressage has very little to do with your beliefs? Or could there be a way to combine them both? Since dressage is really all about forcing a horse to assume a posture that isn’t natural and making them do ‘tricks’ and exercises supposedly to train them into assuming a posture that would lead to benefits for the horse. How does Monty see this issue?

*Monty’s Answer [Part I]: A question has come through to me that is very interesting and quite appropriate at this moment in time in the world of horsemanship. The question is ‘can dressage, and the training of dressage horses, be accomplished while staying within the guidelines of your non-violent methods?’ It is my opinion that the one word answer is ‘YES’.

Not for one moment do I want any horseman to believe that the one word answer is actually sufficient. Nothing that we do with horses is so perfect that it requires no revision to make it better for these wonderful animals. Meeting their needs while helping them to become educated to the ways of the human, is absolutely essential.

One should remind oneself that the elements of dressage were born out of pre-historic wars. Each movement can trace its inception to a time when officers rode large athletic horses along with the foot troops on the battle fields of Asia and Europe. All accounts of the training of these horses would suggest high levels of violence.

Carvings in the rocks and later drawings and even the written word would suggest that horses were literally beaten into submission to accomplish elements of dressage that we still see today. These demands are made in riding schools, on bridle paths and most of all in the competition show rings of the world. This is simply not acceptable.

My upbringing was in the western part of the United States. I saw my first dressage horses in the late 1940’s. We had a Hollywood actor, Arthur Godfrey, who went off to Germany, fell in love with dressage and brought two high-level competition horses back to California with him. I was amazed by what these horses could do and observed them intensely.

Later, while studying my behavioral sciences I was able to see several motion picture accounts of the training of these horses. What I saw was appalling. I suppose I immediately checked dressage off my list of acceptable disciplines. It stayed off my list for about five decades. It was then that I met a wonderful Australian lady called Janice Usherwood.

Ms. Usherwood challenged me to observe her techniques for accomplishing world-class pirouettes, piaffe and passage. I have always been one to advise horsemen to keep their minds open and watch for the good things; not dwelling on the bad. Ms. Usherwood called my attention to the fact that I had been operating with a closed mind.

Later I would meet and work with Charlotte Bredahl. She went on to win the bronze medal in dressage at the Barcelona Olympics. Charlotte is a kind lady who loves her horses and would never think of acting out in violence with them. I have come to know her much better in recent years and she has taught me much.

(to be continued)

11/7/12: I’m 14 years of age and live in Melbourne, Australia. My older sister (18) and I have two lovely horses, Phillip and Effy. I recently read your book ‘The Man Who Listens to Horses’ and I was amazed by all you’ve achieved. Phillip is a 7 year old gelding stock horse with the most beautiful temperament. He’s all round an excellent horse for beginners like me. Just recently Phillip pulled back when we went to untie him and broke the wooden post behind him. We now can’t tie him when tacking up and untacking. I would really appreciate your advice on the matter as we’ve run out of ideas. If you could please get back to me with your opinion that would mean so much to me, my sister and Phillip.

Monty’s Answer: Virtually everyone who has owned a horse has, at some time, experienced an episode where the horse pulls back while tied. Early in the horse’s training, if he pulls back and everything is strong enough to withstand the pressure without breaking, your horse will generally imprint in his brain that pulling back is not good.

Should your horse pull back and cause something to break free in the process, you are likely to have a phobia set in where the horse feels compelled to pull and break anything he is tied with. Two or three of these episodes will virtually assure you of a pull-back horse. The into-pressure phenomenon takes over in this case, and you can watch your horse glaze over, eyes tending to roll high in his head, and then with utter determination he will pull with all his might.

The phobic pull-back horse can break what a normal horse could not come close to breaking. He will crouch his body low and strain with all four legs in the ground to pull with every ounce of his power. If something breaks at this point, it is very likely that he will shoot over backward and often injure himself seriously. When this occurs, it simply exacerbates the problem as it further convinces the horse that he has to break his tie.

Pulling back can obviously occur any time the horse is tied; however, certain activities are more likely than others to evoke it. When the horse is standing tied with comfortable, proper-fitting equipment in a quiet location, the potential for pulling back would be at the lower end of the spectrum. The condition that is most likely to promote it is when the handler opens the rear portion of a trailer before untying the horse.

This is a red-letter mistake. The confinement, footing and sound all combine to create an extremely dangerous environment for your horse. In general, horses that fly out of the trailer can easily produce injuries to people or animals outside as well as to themselves. In addition to untying the horse before opening the trailer, never tie a horse without securely closing the door behind him first.

Bridling or saddling the horse while tied increases the potential for pulling back. I am often presented with horses at my demonstrations that are frightened about being bridled or saddled. Many times this stems from an incident of pulling back while these procedures were
attempted, so I recommend that when bridling and saddling your horse, you control him with your hands rather than tying him.

Horses that pull back are often brought to me at Flag Is Up Farms. I suggest that the person who executes the procedures be a professional trainer, or an extremely competent horse handler. I think it is most productive to suggest you study my full lesson in my From My Hands to Yours textbook where I explain to you exactly what I recommend and allow you to approximate my procedures as close as your facility will allow.

10/30/12: Please can you give me some advice? We don’t seem to be communicating properly with our horse! I bought a 5year old QH/Pony Gelding for my 10 year old daughter. He is quite and friendly till you need to ride him walk him or ask him to do anything. We have gone through you video Join-Up and Follow-Up but he does not respond to looking him in the eye or even open fingers and arm movements. He just stands there and does not respond or even flutter an eye lid. If you use the lunging rope and flick it on his bum he still just stands there and closes his eyes and puts his head up squinting with eyes shut but still won’t move. He just does not respond to anything. We tried saddling him and putting a bridle on him and he keeps throwing his head but he won’t move. We have tried leading him and can get a few steps then he stops playing up but fortunately we have the Dually Halter on him. Do you have any suggestions for what we can do?

Monty’s Answer: If I have a human student in front of me, I can react to what I see as a shortcoming in his procedure or a need to modify. When writing this column, however, I do not have the privilege of seeing my reader at work, thus I must generalize my comments. It comes down to the fact that I must answer practically every question with the admonition to study harder and practice more because these are the only two ways we can become better at learning Join-Up®.

I have been dealing with the principles of Join-Up since 1942. In 1947, I began my work with mustangs. I feel that dealing with these horses who have a communication system that is pure was the real beginning of my understanding of the Join-Up phenomenon. The mustangs use a language with one another that is unaffected by human contact. I observed first their exchanges horse to horse, and then I watched as they dealt with predators.

Subsequently, I used forms of the gestures that I had seen in an attempt to create communication between myself and horses. I was amazed to find that it was possible. By 1952 or 1953, I was what I would call “street conversant.” I have continued to hone my skills and understand more about the Language of Equus so that communicating Join-Up has become increasingly more fluent. Now, with more than 12,000 horses on my list, I attempt to teach this skill to entry-level horsemen. While I feel that I can give students a great leg-up in the learning process, there is still much education to do. I had to learn through trial and error.

I do not know of any language that can be learned overnight. I am not aware of a worthwhile skill that just falls into your brain like a flake of snow from the sky. You need to educate yourself to the Language of Equus which allows you to accomplish Join-Up. Often, I have people come to me and say, “I tried to Join-Up with my horse, but it does not work with him. I guess he is stupid or something.” I am quick to answer, “Please do not blame your horse or call him stupid.” Wherever there are shortcomings in the training process, one should look inward to find the reason.

10/24/2012: I was wondering if there is a general age that Monty recommends that Join-Up can safely be done with a horse. I just bought a filly that is about a year and a half in age. I would like to do Join-Up with her and simple round pen exercises, but I’m not sure if it will be too much stress on her. Please let me know if it’s safe to do Join-Up with yearlings, or if I should wait till she is two years old. I have researched this question and have seen conflicting answers recommended by people on various internet forums.

Monty’s Answer: There are many accepted methods of weaning the foal from his mother. The number of mares and foals involved will affect the procedure selected. I recommend weaning at five to six months of age. For this column, I will describe the weaning procedure I use and most often recommend. Should it be necessary to use a different procedure, consult your veterinarian for appropriate advice. In our operation, foals are weaned in pairs of the same sex. Later, if they have to have any veterinary treatment or travel, they should be brought up and kept with their companion, if possible.

Once the foal has been weaned and no longer calls out for his mother, I recommend Join-Up sessions. Accomplishing Join-Up is a great way for your foal to enter that period of his life when his mother is no longer a factor. Properly done, it will promote an understanding between weanling and human that will be beneficial lifelong. I recommend two or three Join-Up sessions on consecutive days. Schooling with the Dually Halter, together with these sessions of Join-Up, is particularly helpful. Be gentle and patient with foals as they are small and ultra-sensitive.

Doing too many Join-Up sessions at this stage is usually counterproductive. It is a little like often telling a child the same story; the foal will come to resent it and exhibit gestures of irritation. Prudently accomplished, two or three Join-Up sessions will allow you to live by the concepts of Join-Up throughout the relationship with your horse.

10/16/2012: Hello! I have 20 year old pony who does some occasional light hacking. I have been looking at treeless saddles but have read conflicting opinions on them. Some people say they are great and allow freedom of movement; however others say they are bad for a horse’s back and topline. Any opinions please?

Monty’s Answer: Since 1949 I have dealing with this question about treeless saddles. Over the years they have ebbed and flowed with peaks and valleys as to popularity and the lack of it. During the course of these events I have been asked to test various commercial treeless saddles. Along with treeless I have tested what has become known as flex trees. Most of these companies will give me a test saddle. Many saddles of this nature still reside with me in California.

One must remember that it is probable that I have a higher number of disciplines represented here than any professional trainer in history. From the late 1930s through the 1950s Western competition ruled my existence. During that time I was active in show jumping hunters and even gaited horses. Thoroughbred race horses consumed much of my time through the 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s. As a youngster I even rode Quarter Horse races.

Meeting the Queen of England in 1989 caused the first book to be written and changed my life to the extent that it is currently filled with virtually all of those disciplines at the same time. One should realize that I even trained horses for rodeo, roping bulldogging etc. Virtually all of these disciplines are negotiated with a saddle on the horse’s back. Bearing in mind that my education was in Behavioral Sciences, I have an interest in Equine Psychology.

It is my hope that this answer is for more than just treeless saddles. The fact is that in all the testing that I have done with treeless saddles I have virtually no positives sent my way by the highest levels of professionals in any of the disciplines that I have included in this answer. Believe me if a race horse ran faster with a treeless saddle, they would be wearing them globally. If a cutting horse could turn faster, or a jumper leap higher, they would be wearing a treeless saddle.

Mind you, the horse lover might say “But I am not interested in competition. I just want my horse to be comfortable.” Mind you, it is my opinion that if the race horse or the jumping horse was more comfortable they would be likely to perform more effectively. I believe that this is a good barometer of the comfort level of the horse performing these disciplines. It is true that I have experienced significant equine discomfort with some of the commercial treeless saddles.

Having answered this question the way I have please let me make it clear that I believe there will be changes in how we fit saddles on horses’ backs in the future. I am not satisfied that we have all the answers at this time. It is a moving target, this business of a perfectly fitting saddle. The fact is that horses backs change significantly; not only with age but even within the given year. We should all keep our ears and eyes open for potential improvement.

10/10/2012: I am a 50 year old rider who recently got back into horses after a long break while raising children, etc. as a single mother. I now have two young geldings (2 & 3 years old) who I am working with and starting myself, with the help of a very experienced friend. My husband is very new to horses and wants to be able to ride with me one day. I am considering getting an older, dead broke horse for the husband to learn on, and to help with training the youngsters (ponying, etc.). Do you think an older, experienced horse can help with the training of young ones?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. There has been significant study of “the visual learned response” by universities around the world. On balance, most of these studies have concluded that there is very little learned response, one horse to the other. I have read and personally seen some of these science trials conducted for this purpose. I still have strong beliefs that the influence of one horse upon the other is a significant part of the process of education experienced by equine individuals.

The tests that I have done, for instance with horses born deaf, clearly suggest that they know their language and they respond to the visual gestures very effectively. I have also tested horses born blind which later have had surgeries allowing them to see. The fact is that these horses know very little about the language Equus. To me this proves at least two factors rather conclusively. First, the language is silent and secondly horses learn from one another.

One only has to visit an Amish community to realize that their training techniques dating back hundreds of years include the use of a trained horse to guide the younger horse through certain activities like pulling carriages or executing activities around a farm environment. The Amish use no machinery so the horse is still a tractor, a bus, a taxi cab and even a water pump in many cases. It is also smart to put a “green” husband on a “dead broke” older horse.

10/2/2012: I have been working with a very troubled mare for the last five years, and we have got through loads of issues. But what I can’t figure out is when we hack out close to home she seems far more nervous than when I load her up and take her somewhere new. I normally hack out in company and when we load up. But I have also taken her on her own and she just seems much braver. Have you come across this before?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. One can paint this problem with any brush you chose but under the paint it is ‘barn sour’. The term barn sour is really not a very good one; perhaps barn lover is more appropriate. It seems to me without any question that this mare has found the barn to be a good place to go and other unidentifiable places as not so attractive. These problems can date back for many years.

There is a strong likelihood that this mare, at some point in her life, was repeatedly ridden back to the stable, stripped of the tack and given a nice environment to live in. The equine ‘grey matter’ (brain) logs these experiences and holds them for significant periods of time. There is an anxiety factor which builds in the horse’s brain as the familiar environment grows closer. Therein lays the problem.

One could soon prove this point if somehow a procedure was developed whereby the hard work in life was done right at the stable and followed by a gentle lengthy ride. At the conclusion of the ride one might find a very nice place for her to relax, eat and sleep. The following day one would tack up, ride to the old stable, put in a hard day’s work session and then ride back to the new Shangri-La.

Very soon you would watch your mare trade environments. She would become agitated and anxious as she approached her new living area and less irritated as she approached the environment in which she used to live. This is not a very practical solution but it outlines the psychological behavioral patterns that are affecting your horse so as to create a remedial problem you seem to be dealing with.

Once the human brain completely understands the behavioral idiosyncrasies of Equus then creativity must set in. I don’t know your geographic circumstances. Perhaps you have a friend with a stable a few miles away but under any circumstance one needs to cause the horse to eliminate anxiety upon returning to the environment that they have been calling home for a sustained period of time.

In my book From My Hands to Yours there is a section on barn sour and one on separation anxiety which may apply, in close proximity, to your mare and your current
dilemma. One must answer the questions: “Where do I get off my horse?” “When do I groom, feed, and bed-down my horse?” Treat this remedial problem as a challenge to become a more effective horse person and you may even have fun with it.

9/26/2012: In all training we do with horses we need to teach them to move away from pressure and not go into pressure. For example leading, moving the horse from one side to the other when grooming (or if the blacksmith is on a visit) or lifting the horses’ feet. When we ride, we need to teach the horse to follow our reins if we want to turn or stop (easily put) and also to move away from pressure when we, with our legs or heels, want to increase the pace. But are there any moments when we can take advantage of into-pressure? That we want the horse to stay in into-pressure “mode”?

Monty’s Answer: Since humans are critically wired to move away from pressure, each of our cues are typically designed to retrain the brain of the horse to move away from pressure. We would have to live in a bubble somewhere if we were to retrain ourselves and allowed the horse to remain an into-pressure animal. Otherwise, how would other people handle this horse?

The fact is that we could do all the retraining we wanted on ourselves and in the heat of the moment, we would most likely revert to our own wiring. It would be a highly impractical exercise to expect the human body to comply with this theory. It is one of the wonders of Equus that allows them to learn more easily than the human where this phenomenon is concerned.

With these facts in mind let’s investigate how and why we would want the into-pressure element to remain in place. If you had ever roped small cattle from a horse you would realize that the horse can easily be trained to back up and lean his weight against the rope in order to hold the animal while you doctor or brand it. It is quite easily done.

Another area where into-pressure can assist the horseman is found in the mouth of a racehorse. The racehorse that will not firmly take the bit and steadily pull on the riders hands is unlikely to be successful. Control under these conditions requires a finely tuned balance of into-pressure and off-pressure all rolled into one.

As a last example I will explain that into-pressure may well save your horse’s life someday. Let’s say you live on a nice little farm with a small field near the house for your favorite horse. Let’s further imagine that your neighbor raises aggressive dogs. Believe me, should your horse’s flanks be attacked by these dogs, you want him to go into pressure and then kick the heck out of them.

9/19/2012: When purchasing a horse, what is the best way to tell if it has been broken by fear or by choice?

Monty’s Answer: The best way to see if a horse has been broken by fear or handled with force is to feign aggressive actions and see how it reacts. You can tell at once if it’s been hit. They roll their eyes and move away. You might like to try this with several horses. If they have been whipped to the extent that they have resented it, they will actually display aggressive actions.

9/12/2012: I was at your demonstration in Caboolture. You indicated that you had a horse there that was deaf. I believe you when you say the horse was deaf but, if he was, why did he put his ear on you during the ‘equus’ communication.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your question and it is one that certainly should be asked. Knowing the anatomical features, it didn’t occur to me to explain how this system works. It is true that the motor nerve system controlling the ears is attached to the brain and to the auditory system.

While this is true, the motor nerves for the ear are also attached to the ocular nerve or the visual anatomy of the horse. It is true that the right ear is connected to the right eye and the left ear to the left eye. This being the case, the ears go where the eyes go regardless of what they can or can’t hear.

If one thinks about it, you might imagine standing a horse up to take a picture, someone is out in front to get the ears up. That person can make a sound to get the ears up or show the horse some interesting object. Either case will cause the ears to go where the eyes are regardless of hearing.

It is an interesting question that I must admit didn’t cross my mind but I thank you for your attention to details.

9/5/2012: Do horses in their natural environment (a herd) learn incrementally by their mother and older horses, just like Monty teaches us when we want to create a mutual partnership based on trust with our horse?

Monty’s Answer: This is a very difficult question to answer because it calls into question the mindset of the parent or leader. Since none of us can read the mind of any animal or person we need to judge intention by the actions we observe. To me, horses appear to be far more blunt and direct than they are incremental. I think it’s fair to tell you that I have never actually studied this particular aspect of the phenomenon we are dealing with.

Your question is exciting for me because it is just another one of those areas that the next generation is going to move on into the study of equine psychology that we have never touched on prior to my discoveries. My advice is to be interested enough to conduct some in-depth studies along these lines. I’ll be watching for your discoveries too.

8/29/2012: What makes a horse in a herd a leader?! As a matter of fact, some people can learn from horses! as it seems to me that it is not that much the size of a horse that makes him a leader. To me it appeared that age counts more than muscles within a herd. Is that true? Jessica Monnikendam, The Netherlands

Monty’s Answer: It is absolutely correct to say that size doesn’t matter. I have watched tiny ponies control a herd of massive Warm bloods. It is also correct to assert that age makes a difference. Given these two factors one must ask what the criteria are. I have, throughout my career, and am currently watching several social groups as they create a hierarchy and also execute the hierarchy. For a behaviorist it is one of the most interesting facets that we study.

Over the years of watching wild horses, wild deer, wild cattle one thing has become very clear to me. These animals create responsible role models. Regardless of size, the one who appears to be concerned for the safety and well-being of the herd is moved upward as evidenced by the actions of the entire group. There is a course in this subject. There is a book that has yet to be written. After decades of observing with great interest I am only, just now, beginning to understand the dynamics of this herd behavior.

This is a Q&A I can’t go into the array of nuances that are evident to me at this period in time. Perhaps however we should have an extended series on the Online University explaining the creation of a herd leader. I will ask my team to put this subject in the queue to be dealt with as soon as we can. Thank you for your inquiry. It is a very interesting subject.

8/22/2012: My horse is a 15hh Arabian. I have trouble with her when I take off the bridle. I am about 5 feet. She jerks her head up in the air and backs up as if she is going to rear. I can’t reach her to keep her head down and I have tried everything! I do not want her to get hurt. Help!

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for writing and seeking answers for Isis. It sounds as if she has forgotten, or never learned to drop the bit from her mouth without banging her teeth. She may have felt the metal hit hard on her teeth and is anticipating it again. Or she may be Head Shy and protective of her ears or the top of her head. Without knowing why she responds in this way, I will recommend some lessons I developed that will help you both.

If she has just been started in the bit and doesn’t yet know how to let the bit drop out of her mouth, she needs to trust that it will not hurt her to release it. You do not describe a Head Shy horse since you didn’t mention difficulty putting the bridle on. If you follow my lessons, you will soon have Isis dropping her head and willingly releasing the bit.

The Head Shy horse is a common challenge if you are around horses long enough. I would like you to watch the Georgia’s Phobias lessons (series of seven) and the Centaur series on the Online University to help her incrementally learn to release the bit.

8/8/2012: I have a horse that I take care of (Fjord Horse). She is comfortable and friendly and is needed to let people learn to ride horses. But when you ride here she always pulls and turns her mouth to the front so that it is difficult for me to let the reins hold in my hand. She shifts the pressure on the snaffle-bit. And when I slack the reins she begins to stumble and turns her mouth to the ground… In the riding stable, where she lives there is not any person who thinks like you and this horse is the only reason why I am there. So no one can really help me. Unfortunately, there is not a roundpen, there is only a riding arena with corners. I have already tried a Join-Up with her, but she is really not a trusting horse and it had taken a long time, but I failed at it. So please, help me!!

Monty’s Answer: In a case such as this I must listen to the words of explanation quite carefully. It’s the only way that I can try to picture the problem as it exists. What I perceive from the words I hear is that we are dealing with a horse that has been trained to have a hard mouth. So let’s investigate the recommendations that I consistently make for hard mouthed horses.

Please allow me to suggest the mouthing chapter in From My Hands to Yours. For this remedial problem let me recommend the use of a shank cheek piece instead of a snaffle. I have it very effective to use a port either on an English Pelham cheek piece or a Western cheek piece. With these items in place proceed to execute as described in my textbook From My Hands to Yours, in the chapter on mouthing.

It may well be that all of these titles and the jargon of equine bits is more than you can process. If that is the case I would suggest that after thoroughly reading the suggested chapter on mouthing, then acquire a book on bits and read up on what a port is, what a cheek piece is etc. It is not terribly difficult to become relatively familiar with these elements on one good evening.

Recently I have been introducing the cathedral mouthpiece to people with show horses in England. The trainers have this particular mouthpiece fixed to an English stainless steel Pelham and, for all the world, no one knows what is in the horse’s mouth. It is not that I am trying to hide some unacceptable mouthpiece but it is totally unfamiliar to the English scene.

Remember my constant admonition that there are no harsh bits. The only things that can be harsh about a bit are the hands that hold it. The well trained horse with a properly fitted bit can have the reins tied on with fishing line and one should not have to worry about it breaking. Chrome and I can do it on any given day.

As to the round pen, simply round off the corners of your riding hall with jump poles or bales of hay. Learn the language of Equus in order to get the signs that your horse trusts and understands you. My ideal round pen size is 50 feet in diameter but I have achieved Join-Up in acres of ground. Once you understand the principles, you will need lots of practice in Equus.

8/8/2012: Hello! I am writing about taking a class or classes with Monty. I wanted to know what courses would best fit my needs or goals? I rode as a young girl but after falling a couple of times, I grew frightened and now that fear has stuck with me and, perhaps, has even grown. I would like to have confidence and ease with horses and start riding again. Please do let me know what you think might be the best fit either with your offerings or even outside of them? Thank you so much for your time and help.

Monty’s Answer: Many people express to me their innate fear of horses. “They are so big,” they say, or, “I’m terrified of their hooves and teeth. How can you handle them without being afraid?” or, “They move so quickly; they are so nervous.” Fear generally stems from a lack of understanding. The horse has no desire to hurt anyone or anything. Circumstances may cause the horse to react in a way that frightens a person. The answer is to understand their reactions to circumstances. I tell people who express great fear of horses to get to know them, study their true patterns before you brand them as dangerous. The more knowledgeable you become about the nature of horses, the more trust you will have. The less you know or want to know about horses, the more fearful and therefore distrustful you will be.

It is important to remember that the horse is a “prey” animal, his defense being to flee. Man is inherently predatory or “predatorial” as I say, using fight as a defense. Under pressure, these natural tendencies will come into play and man will force the horse as a first response, while the horse will only want to escape from danger. Aggressive acts by the horse, such as kicking and biting, most likely occur when he feels cornered and without any option to flee. This natural response to flee is the basis for my technique of Join-Up.

If you describe responses as “flight-fight,” then the horse is at the flight end of the flight-fight spectrum. He is committed to survival and procreation; fighting is for him a last resort. Man, however, is at the fight end of the flight-fight spectrum. It is in man’s nature to fight when faced with perceived opposition or resistance. If you think you are going to successfully fight with your horse over anything, you are making a terrible mistake. To work effectively with a horse, his true nature must be understood and the trainer must also retrain his own responses to match those of the horse.

So often it is the thoughtless act from a human or the loss of patience that can push a horse metaphorically “over the edge” and cause him to move into survival mode. It is that thoughtlessness, that moment of panic or fear, which I am seeking to replace with knowledge, understanding and calm to create a more harmonious partnership. My recommendations are to study my textbook, From My Hands to Yours, and come learn with me on the Equus Online University. I hope you will join me in my mission to leave the world a better place than I found it for horses and people, too.

8/1/2012: Should I keep my horse off the sand to avoid colic?

Monty’s Answer: There were many suggestions that were made after two or three months of assessing the situation. One was to eliminate grazing on grassy paddocks. Another was to reduce the time in the fields dramatically. Next it was suggested that we have fields with no grass at all and only use them for short periods of exercise. The Jacobs family found each of these suggestions unacceptable, and I was asked to continue the study.

One veterinarian put forward a novel solution which was to create an agreement with the county tree trimmers in the area of Bremen, Germany. I was told to ask them to allow Fahrhof to become the recipient of tree trimmings from 20 to 30 miles around Gestut Fahrhof. I was told that if I wanted the horses in the field give them a sizable pile of leaves and stems cut from trees in the normal pruning process.

This veterinarian said to me that the horses were craving fibrous, woody stems. He said that particularly when the soil was moist, the horses would pull up the roots of dandelions and other weeds and devour those ‘stemy’ plant understructures. He was as right as he could have been and the babies immediately fell in love with stacks of tree trimmings. The internal sand count fell dramatically to less than 20 grams per kilo.

There were several down sides to this idea and one was that we had to do quite a lot of cutting and hauling these branches. Then we had to clear the fields of the uneaten branches almost daily. There were large limbs that came along that had to be processed for the wood
pile. It was a good lesson for me and it certainly proved what the horses were looking for and how to give it to them without costing them heavy sand contamination.

We were not able to continue this project very long because after the death of Walther Jacobs, a certain bookkeeper felt that she was quite important to the operation. She didn’t like the sight of the branches in the corner of the field, and I suppose she was also was against the man hours required to conduct the project. She issued an order, however, and the addition of the tree trimmings was discontinued in about 1998.

Ultimately the Jacobs family took on about double the amount of land and reduced the size of the broodmare band, thus lessening the pressure on the fields. With extreme husbandry mostly conducted by Stefan Ullrich, the sand levels now apparent in the Fahrhof babies has been reduced to well less than 20 grams per kilo. While I would have accepted two or three of the recommended solutions, I did what I could.

It should be noted that the bone quality of the young adult racehorses has improved dramatically with the reduction of the sand. We have produced 28 championships in 20 years of my involvement with Gestut Fahrhof. There are still too many skeletal injuries in the young animals, but I credit the organization and the staff, especially Stefan Ullrich, for conducting effective sand control system.

7/25/2012: Should I keep my horse off the sand to avoid colic?

Monty’s Answer: This is an important topic that I will need to answer in two parts: July 25 and August 1. Virtually every equine veterinarian will agree that horses that ingest even moderate amounts of sand are negatively impacted. Sand in the intestine in sufficient amounts will cause what is commonly known as “sand colic.” While this is true, even a small amount of sand will tend to act in an abrasive fashion to damage and even eliminate intestinal cilia. These are hair like extensions of intestinal wall.

We could say that food material containing sand acts like sand paper to scrape off the cilia eliminating their function in the digestive scenario. Cilia are critically important in the uptake of minerals which then pass into the blood stream and travel to the important areas they serve within the equine anatomy. Reduced cilia, among other negatives, will compromise the development of a sound equine bone structure.

By the time a horse has sand colic, a massive amount of damage has probably occurred. Sand colic is the result of many digestive problems compounding themselves until one has reduced peristaltic activity (the movement of material through the intestinal tract), after which a blockage usually occurs, and then there is pain (colic), hence a call to the veterinarian. The answer is to keep the sand out of the horses.

There are preparations being sold with the promise that they will help collect the sand and move it along, reducing the negativity of sand ingestion. The fact is that there is still sand passing through the intestine and therefore damage is experienced, whether or not one sees it on a daily basis. Clearly, if one can devise methods by which we reduce or eliminate the ingestion of sand, our horses are far better off.

The Internet is loaded with good information from prominent veterinarians regarding sand ingestion in horses. Google Sand Colic and look up entries written by these various veterinarians. One can peruse the commercials for products that assist where sand ingestion is concerned, but consider them as commercials and realize that the ultimate goal is to stop the sand from entering the horse in the first place.

Around about 1994, I was asked by Walther J. Jacobs, the owner of Gestut Fahrhof in Bremen, Germany to solve this problem of his precious Thoroughbred horses eating sand. Remembering back on my University days, I did an enormous amount of work to test how much sand was actually traversing the digestive track of these animals. I was amazed to find that as much as 80 grams of sand was present in a kilo of fecal material.

Most veterinarians site anything over six or eight grams per kilo as being a serious problem. I was to discover that the whole of north Germany is a sandy alluvial plane and that this problem has existed for hundreds of years. Off I went to the German National Veterinarian University at Hannover where I requested a study of the Gestut Fahrhof problem. The University was cooperative and quick to agree to the study.

7/18/2012: At your clinic in March you helped my horse learn to load in the trailer for the first time in 9 years. I cried and really could not believe it. I promised you I would keep loading her and keeping her comfortable with the loading process. My question is this. Should I take her somewhere? I am in the habit of staying home since I really couldn’t take her anywhere before. Now I just load her and unload her. Is that OK?

Monty’s Answer: It’s wonderful to hear that Lilly continues to love the trailer. I remember Lilly as a beautiful and intelligent Arab mare. Arabs are so smart but also sensitive. I see a lot of Arabs at my demos and I believe that they are some of the quickest to cooperate once they no longer fear the process and they understand what you are asking them to accomplish. You can hear the sighs of relaxation when they “conquer” the fear.

Whether Arab or another breed, my loading principles are the same; accomplish a Join-Up®, school to the Dually to cause them to intrinsically learn to come off pressure, but you should never cause pain. Add a handful of grain to a bucket or the manger of your trailer. Load her multiple times, adding another handful each time. The trailer should be a safe and comfortable place for her to be.

Load her and drive her somewhere, reinforcing that riding in the trailer is pleasant and even fun. I suggest a short trip the first time out. Circle back and unload her at the barn rather than get someplace where you might not be able to load again. The second trip can be to a nearby meadow or pleasant place to get some green grass if available. This is my road map for incrementally creating the method by which she looks forward to a trip in the trailer.

7/11/2012: After seeing the benefits of training horses in your style, I have decided to embark on training my newly purchased yearling with your methods. All has been progressing well, but just started to hit a bit of a hurdle. Beau is very proficient in going backwards under command from the lightest of touch with the lead rope. However, he has just decided that he can use this to his advantage if he doesn’t want to go forward when asked and automatically goes into reverse. I have bought a Dually Halter and when he does this I am just allowing him to go and when he is at full stretch on 8ft rope and stopped I ask him to come forward from where I am standing. The question I have is this the right thing to be doing?

Monty’s Answer: It is wonderful that you are starting your youngster off with good ground manners which will serve him, and you, well for his lifetime. It is much easier to teach manners at this age then later but you might be surprised to hear that even mature horses need some tune-ups on the Dually occasionally. The Dually works well for this because of its characteristics of intrinsic learning; that is, the horse teaches himself to find a more comfortable position while being led.

My first bit of advice is to get a longer lead. Eight feet is not enough for schooling a horse to lead. You want him to teach himself and I want you to be safe. I use one of my 30 feet (10 meter) soft nylon long line snapped to the schooling ring of the Dually. I would recommend at least a 20 foot line. By allowing him to react and move backward while you have time to close your hand on the long line, he learns the value of listening to the Dually.

Let’s start with the knowledge that backing up is unnatural and harder for the horse than going forward. A horse won’t naturally choose backing up unless he has found that he can control your feet in this way. He who controls the feet, controls the relationship. I am often called to work with the “balkers” and the “nappers” of the world. I usually arrive to find a horse that is unwilling to back-up at the rider’s request. This horse is likely to pin his ears and run backward when asked to execute a direction he doesn’t want to go; especially forward.

Some trainers believe you should not train a horse to back up for fear you might create a “balker”. Having backed-up thousands of horses I have started from the first day, I cannot identify a single horse that has become a “balker” or a “napper.” In dealing with the remedial balker, I will work with the backing-up maneuver from the very outset. The racehorse that refuses to willingly work on a racecourse will often be asked by me to back-up a greater distance in a given training session than he is asked to go forward.

The principles of your remedial issue and the balker are the same. You should cause your horse to be happier cooperating than being uncooperative. Once backing-up is accomplished easily, going forward is generally simpler to do and visa-versa. I never put pressure from behind on this type of horse to drive him forward. Remedial nappers have usually had more of that done than was ever appropriate. Attempts to force the horse forward with whips lie at the heart of the creation of a napper because of their natural tendency to go into-pressure, causing stopping and kicking etc.

7/4/2012: I hope you can help me with a growing challenge. I have two horses on pasture. One follows me around and is easy to catch. The other horse is a gelding which I’ve had for about 6 months. He was not easy to catch from the start. I just didn’t have the time to chase him around for an hour. He is very difficult and I would say he is at a remedial level now. No one can catch him and I am worried.

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for sending this question as it is asked quite often. People regularly hear me say, “Don’t catch your horse; let your horse catch you.” I would like to address your question assuming that you understand the basic tenets of Join-Up and you have exhausted the use of these basic concepts of doing a pasture Join-Up® and allowing your horse to trust and “catch you”. I will assume that you are correct in your assessment that the horse is remedial for this issue.

You might have noticed that the other horse who is easy to catch is growing even easier as you ignore him/her while chasing down your gelding. I would like you to set aside some time when you can work for perhaps two hours or even more. I don’t want you to feel rushed or under pressure for any reason. Rushing may have caused the problem in the first place. I need you to create a small enclosure area within your pasture or use a field that has a small catch pen.

Place a very small amount of food like a hand full of grain or a bite of hay into the far corner of this small area within the field. When you enter the field to catch him, I would like you to live by the language of Equus and the concepts of Join-Up®. If you enter passively, fingers closed, equipment quiet and eyes averted, your horse should come to you when you invite him. If he moves away from you, send him away by deliberately fixing your eyes on your horse’s eyes, meaning ‘go away’ in his language.

In this way, drive him to the small enclosure. Once he has found this “sweet spot” inside the enclosure, stroke his neck and head and make that small area a safe and happy place to be. Halter him and lead him out of the small area. Take him to the middle of the pasture, remove the halter and walk away assuming he will follow you. If he follows, walk in arcs and allow him to see you as a leader and a place of safety. Use a lot more of the rubbing in that position.

If he leaves you, again square your shoulders on him, eyes on eyes again, pushing him away with the language of your body. Repeat this entire process until the enclosure, and you in it, become a safe and relaxed place to be. Again rub him on the head between his eyes and on his neck and withers so he may learn to trust that you will not cause him pain. After spending 5-10 minutes in the enclosure, once again lead to the middle of the field giving him another chance to stay with you.

As the days go by, try not to make a big deal out of this catching business. Simply conduct this process and one will see that there will be a reduced time until that day when you arrive and he begins to follow you to the small enclosure. It is at that point in time that one should begin to put the rope around his neck, out in the field. Lead him for a short distance, take the rope off, walk with him toward the small enclosure, give him his handful of grain, and a good rubbing.

Soon there will be a day when the small pen is simply not necessary and you will begin to put the rope around his neck in the field and lead him for a minute. Take the lead off and leave him with a cup of grain while you rub and stroke him. Then start the process of haltering which may set him off again but with the rope around the neck one can begin to expect no problem from catching. He should then stand for putting the halter on several times before leaving the field.

One should always remember that it is a good idea to catch these kinds of horses when you don’t have a hard day’s work for them. Often we should simply catch the horse, rub and stroke him and then simply turn him loose for the day. If we reserve our catching only for those days when there is a hard ride ahead one can easily see how this would become a problem by which the horse surmises that being caught is a bad thing and not a good thing.

Please keep us informed of the progress or lack thereof. We need a good result in order to share these procedures with other owners of horses difficult to catch. Who knows? You may very well come up with some unique idea that will pass the test of being non-violent which can be added to my scenario for the next owner plagued by the same issue. We should always be diligent to observe our horses closely and watch for the tiniest opportunity to meet their needs.

6/27/2012: I read recently that Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II will recognize the work of persons you named who are causing people in remote areas of the world to learn your concepts of Join-Up and non-violent training. I understand you will be in England this week to see these awards given. Why is the Queen Elizabeth II award important?

Monty’s Answer: It is my opinion that Queen Elizabeth II is the most influential world leader for a higher number of people over a longer period of time than any other that has existed. Queen Elizabeth II will go down in history as the world leader who most positively affected man’s relationship with animals on this earth. I believe the records will show that no monarch has ever honored a South American horseman since the beginning of time. I am now stating that the legacy of Queen Elizabeth II will be I.F.G. (influence for good) when it comes to affecting man and animal.

6/20/2012: Obviously violent training methods have worked over these thousands of years or horses wouldn’t be used for the work. Why do you think the efforts to encourage violence-free training are important?

Monty’s Answer: The efforts to encourage violence-free training are only important if as a civilized species we want to be violence-free in all of our efforts to educate whether it is animals or humans. If we don’t want to become violence-free, then we carry on using violence, but with that decision we have to admit that we are not civilized. There was a time when men could beat their women into submission. The same is true for their children and for centuries we used violence on the people who worked for us. Whips over the rowing crews were common place. The pyramids were constructed by men who were often in chains and whipped if they didn’t work hard enough.

South America, Central America and Mexico have constituted an area where outright brutality was the order of the day in training animals. These conditions are still in place today. The modern day horse trainer will tend to hide the old world techniques since it has become known that violence-free training is probably more effective. One must be careful not to blame people for using the only method they know. It is my desire to bring effective methods to every continent on earth. I am seeing the most rapid change happening in South America and it is gratifying.

6/13/2012: Does Monty Roberts believe that, one day, there will be no extremely harsh traditional horsemanship anymore?

Monty’s Answer: It is difficult to imagine that every violent human being will be changed at some point in the future. The violence we see by one human toward another human is overwhelming and it’s 2012. I do believe that if there is a chance to eliminate violence, it will probably come first to man and animal relationships and later to human to human relationships. Whatever the outcome, I guarantee you I will not be around to celebrate that wonderful day. It is simply my hope that I can leave the next generation one step closer to violence-free training.

6/6/2012: I have purchased a 14-year-old bombproof mare but she comes from an area without trains. I live in a rural area but I cannot go very far without crossing train tracks. What is the best way to introduce a horse to a train? On this road there is about 5 other horse owners, but none take their horses near the trains. Though some own driving horses, these people go on wagon train rides and are careful to avoid the trains. The trains are an infrequent, but daily occurrence. I intend to let Black become accustomed to the train rather than avoid the train altogether. I live in coal country and there are at least 3 spots where I can expose her to trains without interfering with traffic. However, I would like to drive her to the post office, etc. and there is 1 train crossing with bells and poles that come down.

The State of MD is spraying trees to eradicate some bug. I am in the center of a forest. The helicopter flew over my property and directly over Blackie and made about 4 passes within 50′ of Blackie. The spray was quite visible and the helicopter was only about 50′ above the ground. When I got outside she was looking up at the helicopter and watched as my goats either slammed into fences or jumped them to get to me. The geese and turkeys were also quite frightened. By the third pass of the helicopter, Blackie seemed more interested in the hay in front of her than helicopter. My goats would not leave my side the rest of the day but Blackie did not seem to need me at all.

I did not see the helicopter & Blackie at the moment of the first pass, but when I went out to check she was about 30′ away from her hay. I went out as soon as I heard the helicopter and missed seeing Blackie’s reaction by about 10 seconds. I assume she “spooked” and ran 30′ but when I got to the outside she was looking up at it the helicopter not running. She went back to her breakfast. Looked up for subsequent passes but did not stop munching. Can I assume a similar reaction to the train?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for the time that you took to explain Blackie’s fears. As is the case with so many interested horse people out there, you have answered your own question. There is a test for you. You might ask “Where did I answer my own question?” You did so with the following words “But she comes from an area without trains”. You are telling me that if she came from an area where there were trains that she would be just fine with trains and you are absolutely right.

Don’t worry. We’re going to get through this because I do realize that this simply does not give you enough information. Remember that I often say to my audiences and write in my books. Every horse on the face of the earth is frightened of pigs, unless they are raised on a pig farm. If so, they are perfectly fine with pigs. Most pig farm raised horses love pigs and considers them good friends. There is a lesson to be learned from this phenomenon.

Horses are frightened of anything that they are not familiar with. Their DNA has set them up this way and they simply would not have lived as a species for 50 million years if they failed to think that way. As a child I traveled, with horses, to many horse shows on a train. My horses hadn’t been raised around trains so I had to work out how best to let them know that the train wasn’t going to kill them. I remember exactly how we did it.

Salinas, California has a train track and a depot. It is an agricultural area and there is a lot of freight train loading of vegetables destined for all parts of the United States. Just west of Salinas along the tracks there are some cattle and horse farms. The tracks are laid down in multiples and they are called switching tracks. This means that there are switch engines that move along 2 or 3 cars at a time and park them on the side to be loaded.

After the loading is complete the cars are switched on to the main track hooked to the larger freight train and off they go. We found a dairy farm near the tracks, right in the area of switching. There was high activity on those tracks. We made a deal with the dairy farmer to allow for some horses to be put in the field next to the tracks. After 2-3 days and nights the horses would graze right along the fence and never even look up when the train went by.

Remember that when this was going on we still had steam engines (choo choos). They were awesome, noisy and huge. The trains of today sound like a Rolls Royce compared to the trains of my childhood. Remember also that switch tracks have signals going almost constantly. The signals of my day were called WigWags which was a very large stop sign-like hunk of metal which wagged back and forth on a long metal arm like a giant pendulum on an antique clock.

If you are innovative I think you can come up with someone who has property along the tracks who can assist you. It is well to remember that there are many items at home that can aid you in your efforts. One can start with something as small as an electric toothbrush and work your way all the way up to a leaf blower. Quads can help a lot. They are like a four wheeled motor cycle and very noisy. There are kids in your community that would love to help.

For $5 they will have races up and down in front of your horses stable for a half hour or so. Remember that it is essential to train to these frightening sights and sounds in different locations and at different times of the day. In order to get the job done properly one must do it while on the ground and while in the saddle. Remember to take care and be extremely incremental. Start with the easiest challenge and work your way upward being very cautious not to over match your horse.

5/30/2012: Are your principles only for horses that have problems or people that have problems?

Monty’s Answer: It is true that the principles that I have discovered are only for horses that have problems or people that have problems. The problem with that scenario is that every horse has problems and every person has problems. These principles are for all horses and all people. The rawest horses on earth are mustangs. Believe me, when they are captured and brought into an enclosure to be worked with, in their mind they have big problems.

On the other side of this question, I work with a lot of people; prisoners, school kids, domestic abuse victims, Post Traumatic Stress Disorder victims returning from war and many others including those that would tell you they are completely normal and just want to be better horsepeople. It is my position that each of these categories present me with people who have problems. Each one of us is handicapped or challenged in one way or another. The principles of Join-Up® are effective across the spectrum.

5/23/2012: Hi, I just joined this forum today. I had previously hired a trainer who supposedly did “natural horsemanship.” She ended up terrifying my horse and whipping her in the round pen before I fired her. Wish I had done things differently. Now I’m here looking for a truly non-violent approach. My question is whether I should take my mare right back in the round pen and try join up or whether what was just done to her there means I should begin differently. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks! 1ecofarmer

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your question. It once again gives me a chance to state how forgiving horses are. I am given horses virtually every day that have been abused either with purposeful violence or actions that are well meant but off the mark. I do my work. I do the work that you are made aware of on this Online University. These efforts have so far been 100% successful in at least improving if not totally overcoming the problems created through violence.

5/16/2012: Years ago I was told that red, yellow and other bright colors will attract bees. So for the past 40+ years I have stayed away from buying bright colored horse tack, but I’m getting tired of the drab. Many opinions from trail riders are that bees/wasps are more attracted to a horse wearing colors. I usually have some sort of fly spray on my horse and am thinking the bee will get close and realize it isn’t lunch and go away.

Monty’s Answer: Apparently bees are attracted to bright colors. Since I am color blind I am probably the worst person to ask about this. Scientifically however it would seem to hold true that if bees and other stinging insects are attracted to bright colors then muted tones would be more appropriate for horses. Nature hardly ever gets it wrong and evidence of that is that flowers are brightly colored.

Without the pollen gathering insects, plant reproduction would be virtually impossible. That is why science concludes that if we should lose our bee population, man would cease to exist in a matter of months. I hold the optimistic view that nature would probably figure out an alternative course of action. I am concerned that we are asking Mother Nature to innovate far too often.

It is with that in mind that I believe we need to pay close attention to the loss of species flora or fauna. It will probably come back to haunt us if we fail to be diligent.

5/9/2012: My mare is always moving her head while standing still. She will bring her head into my space and bump me. Any suggestions? I am using the Dually Halter but not sure what to do with this head movement.

Monty’s Answer: Your Dually Halter will help this situation, once you have learned the principles upon which the Dually allows your horse to teach herself. Please review the video lessons that are included with your halter and learn to lead your horse while she respects your space. Your mare is not respecting your space and should have her nose near your shoulder while being lead. I am glad to hear that you weren’t inclined to strike her.

Attacking the point of consternation is an open invitation to war. If we go to war with the horse it is likely the horse will win. They’re bigger, stronger and faster. What happens when one chooses to hit the horse, the horse will escalate the speed and power with which they get aggressive. The horse will become more cunning as to timing, faster on the attack and very quick to ‘jerk back’ anticipating being hit. The overall outcome is that it becomes much worse rather than experiencing an improvement.

Professional trainers will sometimes recommend harsh measures in an attempt to discourage bumping and biting. I have heard them say that you hit with your fist very hard at the slightest indication that a bite is coming. I have been told to use vibrating practical joke mechanisms which have a sharp point on them. Some have said to use a clothes peg to execute a painful pinch; I’ve even heard it recommended using a pair of pliers. The worst I know of is the recommendation to place a nail between your fingers jabbing the horse that bumps or bites.

Each of these measures is guaranteed to produce a horse which is more dangerous than previously. One must agree to take all painful/violent measures out of the training scenario. It is critical that no attention is paid to the muzzle area of the horse whatsoever. These measures will simply cause the horse to get more aggressive. There are much more effective ways to deal with this problem. Learn to use the non-violent Dually halter and school your horse to respect your space.

5/2/2012: Because you understood the gift you were given as a Horse Whisperer at a young age, how did you feel inside?

Monty’s Answer: Hold on! That assumes that there is a gift at all. I am not sure there is. Or is it that we all have the gift and it’s just that we need to nurture it? I don’t think I am anything special; I really don’t. I tell you now, when I realized that I could handle horses so that the horses wanted to be with me and responded to me, at an early age, it was an unbelievably good feeling! I was just elated and the hairs stood up on the back of my neck.

Join-Up still gives me chills and you can have them too. You have that gift; we all do. We need to nurture that gift. How do we nurture it? Education! Education is critical. Learn the language Equus. And then you too will have that gift of communication with your horse. And you will have more fun.

4/25/2012: I watch you on Horse and Country TV in England and I hope you might help me with my 12 year old ex-racehorse. He was very good when he came to us after racing but then took a couple of years off. He now won’t allow the farrier to shoe him and I can’t tack him up anymore.

Monty’s Answer: This question is dear to my heart because I was with the racing industry for 40 years and I transformed a lot of ex-racehorses into riding horses and even competitive horses. I love it! And they have a lot of potential. A 12 year old ex-racehorse who won’t stand still for the farrier or even for tacking up? That’s ridiculous! Achieve a Join-Up®, work with the Dually Halter and in one hour’s worth of work you will cause your horse to stand quietly for you.

Controlling the foot fall and using the methods I teach will cause your horse to allow you to tack and shoe him again. I am absolutely convinced of this and it should be no problem at all. But obviously there is a problem. That is why I have certified instructors, trained in my concepts, available to you in England. Take the horse with you and go on a course. See what we can do to help that horse become a cooperative partner. Instructors are prepared for that kind of teaching.

It is critical that you stay safe. When you don’t feel safe, you will exacerbate the problem by having a high pulse rate. When your adrenalin is up, your horse will go there too. This is a solvable problem without any question but you need to get it right. Take a course, watch the DVDs and my online lessons on Equus Online University, read the books and get yourself educated. Your horse can be fixed.

4/18/2012: My name is Jess and my pony’s name is Thumper. I’m having a few difficulties with Thumper like biting and barging making things difficult for me. What should I do?

Monty’s Answer: Thumper has probably been fed from the human hand. Your question does not say so but if he bites, it is a likelihood that Thumper has been fed from the hand. It’s the third worst piece of horsemanship in the world. So, stop feeding from the hand and read the chapter in my textbook, From My Hands to Yours, on biting. You will see that hitting the horse or confronting the horse head-on is absolutely the wrong thing to do. He will just bite harder.

There are ways to deal with this issue of biting once it has become a problem. But the first step is to stop feeding from the hand. It will only cause your pony to connect food with the human body. It creates biting and it happens with almost every species. It is a mistake.

Barging is a behavior that results from unclear boundaries. When you become clear and consistent in training your horse, the horse will learn to respect your boundaries. The Dually Halter is a tool I use for creating intrisic learning through clear and consistent signals. Please review the Dually Halter lessons on Equus Online University or read the relevant chapter in From My Hands to Yours, for further instruction.

4/11/2012: Monty, as a point of criticism, don’t you think your methods are being used by people who are too inexperienced?

Monty’s Answer: Yes, you are right. Inexperienced people are going to use methods. They are going to work with horses, and any method they use is a problem. What is the solution to the problems encountered by inexperienced people? Education. And I am here to tell you that you have a lot of opportunities to learn.

With courses, with books, with DVDs, with my Equus Online University lessons, there are opportunities all over the place for an education that will support hands-on experience. Inexperienced people simply need to get experience and education in order to improve their horsemanship skills.

Experience is part of the learning process. Don’t you think that too many children in the first grade are inexperienced? Yes, and they are looking for an education. It’s the same thing in the horse industry.

4/4/2012: When you have got a second, would you be able to explain what Monty means by “catastrophic bonding”? Could it happen where just the one horse has what it perceives is a catastrophic event such as suddenly moving owner or environment — like my police horse that is frightened of the countryside and is inseparable from a mare? I’ve tended to think of it mostly from the human point of view, i.e. I’ve loved horses (as in never forgotten them/felt enormously fond) after riding them. Why shouldn’t that happen with horses?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you very much for your question, I think. It is a compound question and one which rides the cusp between reality and emotion. Most scientists agree that horses live in the moment and while they can bond with familiar individuals of their same species, they cannot love. If one thinks that their horse loves them, I personally have no problem with that. I have seen cases which would make a strong argument that they were actually correct.

In answering your question chronologically, let me define catastrophic bonding. The best explanation, I believe, lies in the situation I often outline where a plane crashes into a mountain top. Death and destruction surrounds a few survivors. Let’s say it takes a week for rescuers to reach the party and begin an effort to return the victims to civilization. Be assured that they will never forget one another and they will often be closer than they are with immediate family members.

We humans obviously can love. We can bond with lifetime ties. Our complicated brain structure can assume all sorts of emotional connections to one another and to animals too. Horses are considered animals that can bond rather quickly at times and generally de-bonding takes place much more rapidly than human to human de-bonding does. If horses have but two goals, reproduction and survival, then behaviorists agree that equine bonding is a part of the survival process.

Horses are flight animals with all of the behavioral patterns of herbivores which are designed to provide their flesh for meat eating predators. Their eyes are on the side of their head (flight animal) just like the deer (extreme flight animal). The eyes of the human are bi-focal and point virtually straight forward very much like the cat and the grizzly bear. When attempting to understand horses better we should prioritize their behavior built in for 50 million years.

The fact that you can ride a horse once and be extremely fond of them when you get off, I know one thing for sure; you’re riding nice horses. I like to find the good in the horses I ride too and I must be careful not to allow myself too much latitude lest I fall in love with way too many to feed. I don’t think this is a bad characteristic. I feel much better about that mentality than I do a certain percentage of professional horse people who seem to dislike most of the horses they ride.

3/28/2012: I know you have strong opinions about single line lunging, and how detrimental it is to the horse. However, I have never seen you answer a question like this: What about single line lunging with someone on the horse? If we have a rider who can maintain a reasonable contact and bend, but maybe not steer so well off the line? Or someone who needs that constant supervision. I lunge my brother on my mare with a single line because he needs to be close and I can maintain some control that way. He’s 11, with autism, and I don’t let him go around the ring by himself at any faster than a walk, so he’s on the single line to trot. My horse is also very seasoned, so she keeps in frame with a proper bend without too much asking. What are your opinions on this?

Monty’s Answer: In everything that we do with a horse, safety should be our first concern. I work with many therapeutic riding programs and have been present when the procedure you have described was utilized. There is absolutely nothing wrong with what you are doing and I can whole heartedly recommend it under the conditions you describe. So many of the questions that I answer could have solutions that are the exceptions rather than the rule.

Staying safe with a physically or psychologically challenged rider might require any number of safety measures such as you have described. It would be silly of me to suggest that there was anything wrong with keeping your brother safe under the conditions that you have clearly outlined in your question. I will try to remember to reach out to answer my questions with more attention paid to those circumstances similar to the one you described.

Remember as you read this answer that I am not suggesting that anyone should long line or lunge with two reins with a rider in the saddle. Further to that, for the horse’s sake, students should recognize that single line lunging produces the greatest amount of negativity at the canter. At the walk there is virtually no negative potential. At the trot negativity is limited but side reins are recommended. The canter is the gait where single line lunging should definitely be avoided.

3/21/2012: I recently attended a horsemanship clinic. The clinician was quite famous but it would not be appropriate to name him. I was excited when I got there and filled with anticipation for learning and becoming a better, more informed owner for my pony, Blaze. After signing in and the process of introduction, the environment changed rather rapidly and negatively.

Blaze and I got along fairly well, at least in my opinion. The clinician however began to criticize my riding and general handling of Blaze. I felt totally inadequate and by lunch time I decided that I had been doing everything wrong and that I was a bad owner for Blaze and even a bad person. The clinician made me feel stupid and not worthy of owning a horse at all.

When I got back home, I was ready to give up Blaze. I felt that I should put the saddle in my local shop with a price tag on it and possibly join the ladies golf club. Luckily, Blaze and I went for a ride the next day and I regained a bit of my confidence.

I know that I need help, but I am not a bad person nor am I stupid. I want to keep Blaze and learn to be a better owner, rider and all-around partner for Blaze that I know I can be.

After reading two of your books and seeing a live demonstration I have decided to ask this question in hopes that you can bring some vitality back to my dream of becoming an adequate horse person.

I would like to know that I am able to control the relationship between Blaze and myself and at the same time create an environment in which I feel he is enjoying my company as much as I am enjoying his. Please Mr. Roberts, help me if you can.

Monty’s Answer: The answer to this question must be preceded by a WOW! Or a HOLY MOLY! Our professional community has failed you and you have every right to go through the self-doubting that you felt. The professional clinician that you visited may well have been an accomplished horseman. It is possible that he has given many lessons in his time. It is also possible that he has witnessed some very amateurish horsemanship. This is no excuse.

It is clear to me that he pointed out to you that every problem Blaze had was created by you. Actually, he would be absolutely right in taking that position. Where he was wrong, in my opinion, was to conclude that you were deliberately making these mistakes or so inept that you were unable to learn how to overcome the mistakes that you were making. Becoming very good with horses often leads one to believe that they are superior to other humans.

Most older riding instructors become cranky and impatient. They have seen it all and answered the same questions and solved the same problems over and over again. This does not however give them the right to denigrate a new student to the extent that they steal the wonderful enthusiasm that came with that student on that first morning. These good ’ol boys begin to think that all amateur horse people are incapable of learning, which is a huge mistake.

This same accomplished horseman would look for the little positives the horse expresses so as to praise him. When it’s a human however the calloused coach will only see the next mistake. His brow, his clenched fist and his vocal chords are ready to point out every error and even those that you are about to make. I see it all the time and I can sympathize with the old grouches. At 77 I have to remind myself constantly that my student is trying to do the right thing.

We must treat people the way we would treat the horse and congratulate those tiny improvements so that incrementally we can move our student up the line to higher and higher levels of competency. A student of one of my instructors recently stated that these calloused characters have forgotten that no horse ever loaded himself and drove to a clinic. And no horse ever bought a ticket or paid a fee to a clinician for the right to be ridiculed.

A person in my position reading your question is obliged to say “I’m sorry that you had the experience that you did. It doesn’t speak well for our industry.” Having said that I would ask you to lift your chin, stiffen your neck and go forward in the knowledge that you are perfectly capable of learning these things and if you didn’t realize that you needed to learn them you would not have been seeking the instruction. I am proud that you asked this question.

Remember that I have written about a young man named Greg Ward. He came to me at about 20 years of age. A tractor accident had left him with very little peripheral vision. He had a horse named Blackie that came to him for $350 including the saddle. I made the mistake of saying to a friend that Greg would never make it nor would Blackie. Blackie and I became Greg’s teachers and he ended up winning 16 worlds championships in the show rings.

Teaching is a demanding occupation but we should always respect our students and realize that none of us know it all. The fact is that none of us know very much at all. Each of us is still learning and in the next century horsemen will be far better than they are today. This includes those of us that feel we have been successful for our successes are measured only against today’s competition. We must realize that for each of us there is still a lot to learn.

3/14/2012: I have just joined your Equus Online Uni and was reading about a horse nibbling his owner in response to being groomed or rubbed. I let both my old mare and my new horse, whom I have had a year, groom me back. The only restriction I taught them is no grooming using teeth; only their muzzles. That’s what they do. They are both very gentle with me no matter how hard I am scratching them! Am I wrong to let them do this? Kind regards, Lindsay A.

Monty’s Answer: In my opinion if we are to be good horsemen then we must be a human understanding as much as possible about the needs of our horses. The actions you describe are crossing the line so that we you are tending to regard the horse and the human as the same or near the same species. I am not in favor of regarding the horse as part human or the human as part horse. This is a close one and if your horses are perfectly behaved and you are finding no problem with it, who am I to say it´s wrong.

When it comes to feeding from the hand or playing games with your horse that would tend to allow the horse to feel as if it is playing with another horse, then I think it is wrong. These procedures, although friendly, generally wind up with the horse doing something that is painful to the human. Often these actions result in the human striking back when the horse has no way of knowing what it is that he has done wrong. We should be caring humans allowing our horses to be cooperative horses.

3/7/2012: I keep reading conflicting reports and don’t know which report I should take notice of. I am hoping you may be able to clarify it for me. My lovely mare produces a lot of froth around her mouth when we ride out, which she then gets irritated with and shakes off. I have always been told that it is a good sign and means I am riding with soft hands (which I do always try to do). I then read an article re: the bitless bridle that says too much froth is the horse’s digestive system reacting to the bit in its mouth and contrary to soft hands, can sometimes mean that you are being too hard with your hands. I am confused and just hope you can clarify for me. Suppose it could all be a sales ploy to get people to go for a bitless bridle?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question and let me say I respect you so much for, not only your concern in this matter but also how diligent you have been in pursuing an answer to your question. The fact is that I am currently working on an extended paper on the subject of bits, mouthing, bit less and many other aspects of our system of communication with our horse through the reins. It is a complex subject and includes many facets that are challenging to even the most experienced horsemen.

In your case, I want to ask the question about the breed and conformation of the horse. I would like to ask what sort of bit you have been using previously. It is important to know the type of metal that the bit includes and so many factors and too numerous to request at this time. Please stay in communication with us and view lessons on the Online University as I plan to be coming to you with much more information on this subject. It has fascinated me for all of my professional life.

Typically most horses’ mouths are too dry so I can understand why people say saliva is a good thing. Your words tell me that the saliva production, in this case, is overly abundant and a distraction to both you and your horse. This is abnormal and I would like to further explore this problem with you if we could dialogue to fill in all of the blanks for me so that I could give you and intelligent, well thought out answer to the problem. I can remember several horses in my past with this problem.

You are very astute to speculate that people who sell bitless equipment want to be considered in this discussion. I am a strong proponent of certain bitless equipment. But I am a stronger proponent for the fact that virtually every horse should be able to handle a normal bit and bridle without the complication that you have outlined in your question. I look forward to working through this with you in the next weeks.

2/29/2012: My name is Gabi. I live near Innsbruck, where I was lucky to see you last year on your show. I remember the poor horse “Baron” you helped. I read all your books. They are my bibles, but nevertheless I could not find a solution for my current problem with my darling horse.

I have a five year old mare, called Bingi (Bingo). She is a Hungarian Sport Horse, and I have owned her for 2 years. I have been riding her for about one year with a regular trainer; I also do double line lungeing, dressage, free jumping and Join-Up with her.

My problem is: Especially when doing dressage and double line lungeing she often reacts by standing still and not taking any steps forwards or backwards (napping). I do have a whip, but believe me I would never hit her, I only want to motivate her.

My trainer here, who also detests violence, told me not to bring Bingi in the situation to react that way, but I don’t know how to avoid it, because it often starts from the beginning. Free jumping, joining up, crossing country is always a joy with her. She has wonderful movements and she learns very quickly, but only if she wants to.

Her equipment is very good and I am sure that she has no health problems at all. When she naps, she is very tricky and my tries to solve this only work for a day and not for the next time. I am running out of ideas, please help me soon!

Monty’s Answer: It is good that you have addressed health issues first. This is my first question when asked about this subject. Many horse owners right around the world bring this question to my signing stand and I am happy to address this to the larger audience in the Ask Monty. It’s possible that the problem may have been fostered through physical pain that is no longer present.

The pain could have been the catalyst to the development of the remedial problems. Once the trainer has concluded that the horse is currently free of physical ailments, he can go on with the training procedures outlined in my Walter Won’t Go Forward lessons or from my textbook. The point of these lessons is to reward the horse when she goes forward.

If this condition is in any way connected with your horse being bonded (sometimes called “separation anxiety”) to another horse, then increase the length of time the horses are separated on any given day. Your horses should not scream for one another or seem affected by separation. Equus, being a herd animal, is far more comfortable in a group than he is as an individual.

Your comments about how “she learns very quickly, but only if she wants to” are interesting in that I agree we want our horses to want to be our partners. But being careful not to ascribe human attributes to horses, it is important to note that horses have only two goals; to survive and to reproduce. If we over-match our horses, such as with jumps, we can create refusal too.

2/22/2012: For the past month, I have been experiencing an interesting problem with my horse. About 30 minutes into a trail ride, he will start favoring one of his front legs. The first time this happened I dismounted and checked his hoof and leg. There was no heat, swelling, stones, obvious bruising, nothing to indicate any problem. None the less to be on the safe side, we turned back and I walked him back to the barn. As we were returning, I noticed that as we got to the barn his limp disappeared. This happened for the next three rides. My husband and I both suspected he was faking. So the next ride we decided to trailer some place new, thinking he wouldn’t fake an injury on a new trail. However, he pulled the same stunt. Thirty minutes into the ride he pretended to be lame. Instead of getting off of him, I stayed in the saddle and we rode as if he was fine. He limped while we were outward bound, and then when we started back to the trailer he became sound again. My feeling is that if we continue to ignore his act, he will eventually cut it out. I can’t really have him checked by a vet because at the barn he is totally sound. I wanted to get your thoughts about this.

Monty’s Answer: This is a question that sincerely strikes at the heart of every scientific study that has ever been done regarding equine intelligence or the behavioral sciences connected with to the horse. The pure scientist would laugh your story off the page. The fact is however, that pure scientists, at one time scoffed at the thought of the earth being round. Scientists now know the earth is round but will soundly reject the theory that healers can make you well without touching you.

My life is led in the world of pure science. Psychology and specializing in the behavioral sciences has kept me busy since the age of 4. While I hold degrees in pure science I have never completely closed a little window at the top of my brain which would leave room for the earth to be round, or the healer to magically solve your medical problems without medication or even a touch. I don’t think it can happen, but who in the world am I to say for sure that it hasn’t happened or is happening?

There is a lot of room in your story for misdiagnosis. I have dealt with Peruvian Pasos by the hundred, and I can’t remember one that I didn’t suspect of being lame or slightly off. Consistently I would be admonished by knowledgeable Peruvian Paso people that ’it’s just their way of going’. Quite possibly your horse alters his gait slightly when he is moving in a direction that is slightly less desirable than the direction that he would like to go if given the opportunity as his own freedom of choice.

While traveling in this slightly less than desirable direction there may be a psychological component that causes his physiology to alter his stride just enough to appear to be experiencing pain. If we can agree that horses can’t lie then we can also agree that they can’t fake anything. I believe that horses can’t lie, and I believe that your horse is not faking a lameness. I am convinced that there is a logical reason for his actions if a careful diagnosis is conducted by a thoroughly experienced horseman.

You could be right however, and maybe you have the first horse on earth that can lie. Who is to say that to fake something isn’t coming down the path in the evolution of Equus, the same as their foot changed from three toes to one or their size evolved from that of a mid-sized dog to the animal that we see today. Your question begs all of us to continue our studies and educate ourselves wherever we can to become more familiar with this four-legged partner of ours we love so much.

2/15/2012: What is the safest way to dismount off a horse?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. It calls to mind one of those moments in time when a very high percentage of injuries occur to riders. The primary outcome is to get on the ground safely and free of injury or even potential injury to rider or horse. I have decided to go through statements I have made previously and be as complete as I can with the answer to your question.

I recommend that both horses and riders return to an enclosure with good fencing and good footing before dismounting, and in my operation it is not until about the tenth day on average that I have the rider dismount outside longer if there is a need for it. The following is a recommendation when executing the early rides of a horse during the starting process.

I ask the rider to request a step back and prepare for dismounting. The horse should be in a position well away from the fence. I attach the long line to the bit and throw the line behind me. I place one hand on the saddle at the withers as a precaution should the horse move toward me while the rider is dismounting. The rider should remove both feet from the stirrups and then bring the right leg clear over the back of the horse and dismount.

When you just ride your horse back to the stable, enter the building and dismount, you are sending your horse a wrong message for your purposes. It sets well with the horse so his learning is deep. A knowledgeable equestrian will eventually conclude that, while his intent is pure, he often trains his horse to do exactly what he does not want which is to desire to return to the stable and have the rider get off remove the tack and put him in a nice stable with something to eat. It tends to create a ‘barn sour’ horse.

The best way to complete this walk home is to keep going until the horse is willing to negotiate any direction the rider chooses. Then stop, back the horse up a pace or two, and dismount. Loosen the girth and give the horse a good rub on the forehead. In this way you are reinforcing that the horse has pleased you. It is often a good idea to spend a few moments just standing.

When you are both ready, lead the horse home. If this procedure requires you to walk great distances back to your barn, then attempt, wherever possible, to ride on 45-degree angles to your home point so that you can ultimately dismount at a reasonable distance of 100 yards (approx. 100 meters) before walking to the barn. Each time, dismount at a different spot and often go in a different direction, so as not to create another habit. This will mean that your horse is never quite sure when he will be rewarded, and is unlikely to ever race for home.

The act of dismounting can be done safely in many different ways. The classic English saddle is best dismounted by removing both feet from the stirrups and turning as one dismounts so that the rider meets the ground while facing the saddle. If the rider is young, athletic and nimble, dismounting the Western saddle is typically done by allowing the left foot to remain in the stirrup until the right foot strikes the ground at which time the left foot would then be removed from the stirrup.

Most Western instructors would recommend that the final position on the ground would be achieved by having the rider face forward to horse’s line of travel. This method is thought to protect against potential injury when the horse moves forward while dismounting. In either case the rider should always maintain control of the reins during the entire dismounting procedure.

In my case, at 76 years of age, no longer athletic or nimble I find it safer to train my horses to come to a mounting block to get on and then to except standing still at the mounting block for me to get off. I know, that no World’s Champion Western Rider should ever admit to using a mounting block to get on or off. The fact is however, I am admitting to it and it’s silly not to admit to it and then be spending time answering questions on the internet while recovery from a broken leg or even worse.

2/8/2012: Hi Monty, I just listened to the radio program (Horse and Friends) you posted on Facebook and it reminded me of something I always wondered about when Monty went to Join-Up with the Mustang who turned out to be Shy Boy. I would like to know the reasons for choosing him. Was it something about him or was it Shy Boy’s own curiosity that attracted Monty to him? I thought many people might like to know the answer to this question. People often say “You don’t choose a horse; it chooses you”. I wondered if that might have been the case. Having been on a course and met Shy Boy, he is certainly a character but what was it that particularly attracted Monty to him? Best wishes, Ruth

Monty’s Answer: The book “Shy Boy: The Horse that Came in from the Wild” is dedicated to the American mustang, the heart and soul of my work. Shy Boy represents the wild horse in a truly honorable fashion. I had my eye on Shy Boy for forty-five years. Not on him, exactly, but on one of his kind. He was a vision, but it would take good fortune and hard work to bring us together.

When the BBC took a chance on me to document a Join-Up® in the wild with an American mustang, Shy Boy was closer to becoming a reality. I traveled to Santa Margarita, a small town about seventy-five miles north of my farm, to a Bureau of Land Management adoption. These mustangs have been captured off the range, gelded and would be very unsettled.

It was important to choose a male because females could be pregnant. I wanted three horses: a first choice, as good-looking as possible for the cameras, plus two backup horses in case sickness or injury occurred before we started and I wanted all of them to be three to four years of age. Among the 220 horses up for adoption, only 20 fit my criteria. My name went into a hat with fifty five others.

One horse in particular caught my eye as I scanned the corral. He was more handsome than the rest, with a brighter spark in his eye. When he moved to avoid human contact, he did so more quickly and fiercely than the others. I could see manifested in his build and in the way he carried himself the classic Spanish ancestry, the proud, strong heritage of his forefathers.

He was looking at me out of the corner of his eye and he wanted nothing to do with me. It was as though he was saying, “Stay away. I’m wild and I’m going to stay that way. I don’t know what’s going on here, this is outside my experience, and I sure don’t want to find out.” He was a character to contend with, but equally, one anyone would be proud to know.

Editor’s Note: For more about Shy Boy go to: http://www.montyroberts.com/horses/shy-boy/

2/1/2012: My pony throws himself down in the trailer when traveling, and it is getting dangerous. What do you suggest please?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for asking this question. The Into-Pressure phenomenon of the equine anatomy is probably responsible for your horse throwing himself down in the trailer. If a horse is in a normal compartment provided with one wall and a partition, the horse is in a relatively narrow area. When a turn is made, the body of the horse is required to balance by leaning to one side.

When this is accomplished the horse is pressing against one side or the other. This is when the Into-Pressure phenomenon kicks in. The horse feels obliged to press harder and his feet then tend to travel up the wall on the opposite side. The result is that you have a horse that is entering a state of vertigo. This often results in the horse losing balance and falling on the floor.

These circumstances constitute the reasons why slant hauling was invented. The first slant load trailer I ever saw was a Miley, in 1956. The slant trailer format means that the horse is standing on a 45% angle to the line of travel. Slant hauling is far more Equus-friendly than traveling straight ahead. The slant haul format is just one solution to this problem, and certainly having more room is another.

Please read more in my text book From My hands to Yours and/or watch the Into-Pressure series on Equus Online University.

1/25/2012: My husband would like to know if there is such a thing as a “coldback horse”. In other words “one that you have to lunge before each ride”? We think not, but there are others who tell us yes. Robert says he’ll take your word before anyone else’s.

Monty’s Answer: The Coldback horse is a phenomenon generally referred to by horse people whereby the horse tends to want to buck with the saddle or the saddle and rider in the first minutes of any given day. The inference is that when the back is cold the horse wants to buck. When the back warms up, the tendency is to accept the saddle and rider. When assessing this phenomenon, one wants to be very careful not to confuse a physical problem with a psychological problem.

Many Coldback horses will generally outgrow it and resolve the problem pretty much on their own. One should be careful to exercise moderately before mounting. If we are dealing with a physical problem, the odds are that it will not resolve itself without dealing with the physical malady before expecting a resolution to what we term the Coldback problem. At this point in time I know of no other diagnostic solution than to X-ray the dorsal processes of the spinal column.

Once the X-ray is completed, the competent vet will diagnose normality or abnormality of the dorsal processes, their spacing and their alignment. Should there be the problem of misalignment, it is likely that the vet will determine it to be ‘Kissing Spine’. I am discovering that many horses who have heretofore been termed buckers or horses with many negative labels are actually horses with anatomical abnormalities that can cause extreme pain with the weight of a rider. One should be sure to investigate the potential for physical problems before labeling the horse as having psychological problems.

What can you do to help this horse? The vet might use an anti-inflammatory between the dorsals or even the removal of some processes with no ill effect with the horse being able to carry the saddle and rider.

1/18/2012: Hello, I have a little problem when I’m riding: I can’t keep my toes in. How can I fix my problem? Thank you, Candi

Monty’s Answer: Beginning riders have to train their muscles to get their riding position right. To achieve the leg position that I practice, you will want the center of the stirrup to be in the middle of the widest part of your foot. The goal is to have your toes pointed toward the horse’s ears, but straight ahead is acceptable. Your body should be aligned in a line from your head straight through your heels.

The ‘correct’ riding position varies depending on the riding discipline that you practice. A good student will also note that the correct riding position has changed through the times. When I was a young boy taking riding lessons, my riding instructors often reminded me to ‘grip with the knees and keep the toes in’ and this is the way that I ride even today.

The critical factor is that your body is well aligned so that you can be centered and balanced. The center line of the horse and the center line of the human should be matching exactly. Achieving the correct riding position takes a lot of practice. The goal is to be balanced on the horse at every gait, ensuring the safety of the rider and setting the horse and rider up for good performance.

Watch Monty explain and demonstrate his riding style in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUjnGsuv1f8

1/11/2012: My 2 and 3/4 year old Irish Draft x TB is called Wren and this is what is happening with Wren at the moment: I have introduced him to his Dually Halter, and have done leading with him, so now he walks perfectly when I walk without asking him and he stops dead on my shoulder when I stop, he turns with me and quite happily follows everywhere. But when I went to run off to get him to follow me he decided that he didn’t want to do that and put in a rear. Now Wren is 16hh and very strong and even with the Dually on he pulled me off my feet and I am 9 stone 5’4 in height. So after he goes up I ask him again without reward until he comes with me and then he resists and plants himself, he has even broken away from me in my 7 acre field with the Dually on with the line training behind was not a good time! But he let me catch him and was quite happy I think he saw all his friends at the other end of the field was being asked something new and thought,“Nah, I’ll go see my mates thanks!” So he won’t come with me when I ask him to if it’s faster than walk. What now? Do I need to keep going with the leading training until he gets it or what?

Monty’s Answer: Wren is a big horse, and he is bossy on the end of the lead line. He takes charge of his owner, Amber, and travels wherever he chooses. Amber is a light, small person and Wren takes off on her when she asks him to lead out of his pasture. The fact is, most horses are stronger than most people. I am a relatively strong and big guy, but large horses will win if I get into a battle of strength with them.

Some time ago in England I worked with a 17 hh horse that could pull me off my feet if he wanted to. He was refusing to come forward willingly at the trot. I worked with the Dually Halter and the first 10 minutes of training were challenging for me. I had to be very precise in my timing. After 10 minutes of work, this horse had learned to come off the pressure of the Dually and follow me willingly.

For anyone who is training a horse with strong opinions about leading, I recommend getting in touch with a local instructor. The instructors certified in my concepts are well schooled in the use of the Dually Halter. They have the experience necessary to get the Dually Halter work right and to pass on instruction to the owner or handler. You’ll find a list of my certified instructors, on this webpage: http://www.montyroberts.com/contacts/certified-instructors/

1/4/2012: My lovely appaloosa mare, Leggs, and I enjoy rambling round the countryside (hacks/trails of 10-20 miles) and a few long distance rides each year. Leggs’ current saddle pad is a bit too long, rubbing slightly over her lumbar spine/loin area. The problem is that we live in the UK and ride western. Well, Leggs is Western and has been a great teacher so now we amble along happily understanding each other. The point is that there are no Western saddlers anywhere nearby to go and explore suitable saddle pads. Instead I’ve done some research online and come up with two possible options and wanted to see if any of you have experience of them. I am considering the Cavallo Western All Purpose – Performance Enhanced and the Horsedream Products 30mm pile merino lambskin western pad with a twill outer. I think the outer is a bit like a normal English numbna. I hope anyone with a Cavallo saddle pad could let me know what you think of its performance as to import one to the UK costs half as much again on the usual price – very expensive! Or if you use a merino wool pad without all the extras, like felt and woven exterior, how does it work? I want Leggs to be as comfortable and happy as possible, so if you’ve got any comments on the above or even another saddle pad idea it would be good to hear.

Monty’s Answer: Recently, I filmed a series of lessons for Equus Online University called ‘The Science of Saddle Fitting’ with saddle tech, Robert Ferrand. Our findings confirmed that no saddle can fit perfectly under all circumstances, but we can optimize the effect of a proper fitting saddle accompanied by an effective saddle pad cushion.

Since 2007, I have been working with a Canadian company, Cavallo Inc., that has reached out to assist us in this effort to maximize the effect of the saddle pad in the area of protecting the horse’s back. In this video, you will see me reviewing the qualities and benefits of Cavallo pads as I work with my horse, Nice Chrome.

Here is the video link to my response on saddle pads: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMOLeuaTQgo&feature=youtu.be

12/28/2011: I live on Vancouver Island, and have a nice well trained Reg. Morgan. He is 19 yrs.old. I am an intermediate beginner, riding English at the moment. My problem with Domino is…when we go out alone, he is hesitant to go forward down a hill, and down the road….esp. when he is still close to home. I do a lot of turning him in circles, and sometimes it just doesn’t work, and I end up getting off and walking with him to a designated area…and then riding home. This is very frustrating…I am so hoping you can suggest what I do? How do I read him to convince him to just go forward? Please help…thanks in advance, Elaine Newman

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your question. I will attempt to give you the appropriate answer as this is a question that we hear quite often globally. Before my answer however I would like to say how much I appreciate the island on which you live. Please don’t tell a lot of people that you have the sea, the rivers and the nature that qualifies Vancouver Island as a paradise.

I would like to return there soon because I think there is a chance that I might be offered a complimentary tea time visit to one of the world’s most incredible hotels: the Empress Hotel in Victoria. The reason I think they might appreciate a visit is that I am now a member of the Victorian order! Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II bestowed Her personal honors on me on June 6, 2011, and since I am such a fan of that hotel I think it’s fair to assume that I could be an honored guest.

If they felt that that was too much to ask, I would happy to pay for my tea time visit. It is a world class experience along with their incredible gardens. Your Domino likely needs to complete my lessons as written in my textbook From My Hands to Yours about refusing to go forward called balking, napping, or jibing. It occurs largely because of pain caused by athletic injury, wear and tear, an accident or misfitting tack or harness but could also be a learned behavior.

In the days when driving and working horses in harness was the order of the day, balking was commonplace. A misfitting collar was often the culprit. This piece of equipment was the main contact point as the horse pulled his load. Significant pain could quickly produce a balking draft horse. Before dealing with balking through techniques I describe here, you should take great care to eliminate the potential for physical pain as the cause of the undesirable behavior.

It should be noted that the problem may have been fostered through physical pain that is no longer present. The pain, however, could have been the catalyst to the development of the remedial problem. Once the trainer has concluded that the horse is currently free of physical ailments, he can go on with the training procedures outlined in my Walter Won’t Go Forward lessons or from my textbook.

Almost every balker that I am asked to work with turns out to be a horse that resists backing-up. For some reason, many horsemen seem to think that schooling a horse to back-up will cause him to be a balker. Nothing could be further from the truth. As with loading, reverse is a direction that we should own in a partnership with our horses. The horse that is not trained to back-up willingly may use it against us when he chooses.

The horse that will back comfortably and willingly, either from the ground or while you are riding, is far less likely to be a balker than a horse not trained to back-up. This is an excerpt from my textbook: From My Hands to Yours and you can read more about the equipment I use to create a horse that has overcome his unwillingness to move forward. You will have a happier horse when he is content to go forward.

12/21/2011: What do you do with a mare that pins her ears when you feed her?

Monty’s Answer: If a horse should own any part of the day, it’s when they’re eating. When you feed a horse, leave them alone. Get the feed to them as easily as you can without mixing in at all, and then leave them alone. If they tend to get impatient when you feed them, take them out of the stall first, feed the stall and then return your horse to the stall. This is not a time to train your horse.

This is not a time when they ought to be pleased with having you in their lives. Horses that are cranky when they’re fed are cranky because they want you out of their territory and they want the tranquility of being able to eat without being bothered by a human being. You wouldn’t want them coming and hanging their head over your table when you’re having lunch, and they feel the same way. So, it is best to leave your horse alone when you feed them.

Editor’s note: Watch Monty’s video on this topic featured on Monty’s blog:
http://www.montyroberts.com/twitter/ask-monty-why-is-my-horse-aggressive-at-feeding-time/

12/14/2011: Please help me. I have a 5 year old stallion which I have owned since he was an unhandled 3 year old. My daughter and I now have him riding and jumping very well. He is the nicest natured horse (just like his sire) who is afraid of nothing except other horses. He is so fearful of other horses that his fear will override his stallion instincts. We want to show jump him which is what he was bred for but have been unable to overcome this deep seated fear of horses. Please can you help?

Monty’s Answer: It is my opinion that each of us should do a significant amount of work to cause our horse to control their fear responses. While we should not want to desensitize to a state of vegetation once more we should be reasonable in our approach where this area of training is concerned.

It is a fairly common issue with horses to fear things coming at them, whether on the trail or in the arena. Building your horse’s trust through Join-Up® and logging lots of time seeing things such as horses coming at them, without incident, will eventually overcome these fears.

Recently I was watching a video of one of my students who was working with a horse that had a deep seated phobia of tractors. In the beginning the horse was absolutely ballistic at the sight and sound of the tractor, while in the end he was following the tractor around with no lead rope on.

The point made here was that when the tractor roared and came at him he was frightened tense and evasive but didn’t blast away. The early portion of the video shows him flying at top speed at the sight of an oncoming tractor from 30 meters away.

Stallions, by nature, are aggressive. Aggressive males can be a serious problem for the practitioner of Join-Up. This is not to say that they are not a serious problem for any other method, but you could be laying yourself open to injury if you place your trust in an aggressive young male horse.

It is not by accident that aggression in young colts becomes a part of their makeup. You should not consciously expose yourself to potential injury in an attempt to do Join-Up as young stallions should be handled by professionals, not by amateurs. An aggressive young male should be treated as a remedial horse before any attempt to do Join-Up.

12/7/2011: How would you clip a big horse who is terrified of the clippers without doping him?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for sending this question to me. In the past two years my menu of procedures has grown tremendously where this problem is concerned. Yes it’s true; at 76 I’m still learning. There was a time when I recommended Join-Up® schooling to the Dually halter and then the use of the hair dryer to cause the horse to be more comfortable with electric motor sounds and the feel of the air on sensitive areas of their body.

These early procedures worked well and have served to improve the lives of countless horses all over the world. Some of my instructors came up with an additional procedure that I have found to be extremely effective. It is the use of a battery powered toothbrush. There are no sharp edges and you can get ones that have a very low volume so far as the electric motor is concerned. For the extreme case, taping the toothbrush to a bamboo pole can help one be more incremental in their approach.

Recently, I discovered all on my own, the addition of a gentle gelding that I could ride while massaging my equine student with the electric toothbrush. It seems that frightened horses will allow you to do much more from the back of another horse than they will when your feet are on the ground. We have been calling it the Monty Roberts Centaur effect. It has been an extremely valuable addition to the list of procedures I already had in place.

I am not asking a student to eliminate any of the early procedures. I am only suggesting the addition of those that I have listed here. Please do not use clippers while mounted on your quiet gelding as clippers have sharp edges and many have attached electrical cords. I do not recommend the use of an electrical cord until your equine student is perceived to be around 90% cured of the clipper phobia. The use of battery powered clippers should be employed before any cord is brought into play.

11/30/2011: I really enjoy your Equus Online lessons and am learning the double line long lining on my OTTB rescue. When you train a Thoroughbred, do you begin your long lining on the bit or on the Dually Halter?

Monty’s Answer: I normally do my initial long lining with a Dually halter. When you use the Dually Halter to long line, it acts much as a side pull would from the saddle. If you begin the training procedures bitless, the Dually can be an effective tool. For your horse that has been saddled and is accustomed to the bit, I recommend you place the reins under the rear of the saddle, or provide another safe attachment. The following excerpt from my textbook, From My Hands to Yours, explains the recommended long lining procedure.

With your horse fitted with both a Dually Halter and a snaffle bit and headstall, be sure the reins have slack in them and not make contact with the horse’s mouth while executing normal maneuvers. Snap one line into the nearside training ring of the Dually halter and place the other over the seat of the saddle allowing the snap to just reach the ground on the opposite side.

Cross in front of your horse to the offside, giving his head a rub as you go round. Pass the offside snap through the stirrup (back to front) and snap it into the offside training ring of the Dually Halter. Take care to adjust the Dually ring smoothly under the bit and bridle. Return to the nearside and repeat the process with the nearside line. Pick up the two lines on the near side of the horse and move backward and laterally outside the kick zone toward the rear of the horse.

At this point, you are prepared to drive your horse on the two lines. Swing the offside line over his hips, which places you well behind the horse and in the driving position. You should be experienced with long lining long before you execute this procedure with a raw young horse. I recommend that you long line many trained and quiet horses before you take on a young inexperienced one.

If your horse accepts the lines well, you are now prepared to allow him to circle the round pen while you stand near the center guiding him. Your horse should successfully execute circles on each lead and turn comfortably away from you as you request. When your horse is turning and accepting his work at the walk, trot and canter, you should stop your student and turn him outward facing the fence.

You should allow the animal to stand for a moment and relax. Then, lifting the lines, you should encourage him to take one step backward as he draws the slack from the reins. I recommend that you always cause your horse to take a step back before going to the next goal in the training procedure. I recommend driving, using the rings of the Dually Halter once or twice and then advance to the rings of the snaffle while long lining.

Editor’s note: A Long Lining DVD is now available! This new video illustrates the how-to of Monty’s long lining technique. More information here: http://www.montyroberts.com/montys-store/dvds/long-lining/

11/23/2011: I am learning your methods regarding double line lunging and have had great results preparing my horses for the ridden work. One horse, however, insists on kicking at the lines A LOT and I wondered if you have ideas for helping her through this ticklish stage please?

Monty’s Answer: It is exciting to me to hear people say that they are getting great results from double line lungeing. I wrote a whole chapter in my textbook From My Hands to Yours to deal with three of the most often committed errors against my concepts: use of the whip, single-line lungeing and feeding by hand. I’ll speak to the kicking in a moment but let me first explain the advantages of two lines on your horse.

Single-line lungeing is a practice inherently bad for your horse. By single-line lungeing, I mean the method of lungeing using a single line attached to the head of your horse. Sometimes, horsemen attach it to a lungeing cavesson, which is a contraption reinforced with metal around the nose area, and three rings on which to attach the lungeing line. The line is often attached to the top ring on the cavesson, and the horse is sent away from the handler to travel in circles at the walk, trot or canter.

The horse cannot possibly balance himself with the unilateral (one-sided) action of the weight of the line, let alone with the weight of the person pulling on it. If a horse is subjected to this treatment for an extended period, he will probably modify his gait to compensate for the unilateral pressure. This horse is at risk of developing back problems, and moves with reduced efficiency, disunite (cross lead).

My methods would have you use two long lines (30 feet or 10 meters each), one on each side, clipped to the schooling rings of the Dually Halter. Your hands will be directing both sides of your horse’s head and you can encourage symmetrical travel. I recommend a driving surcingle with guide-rings about where the rider’s knees would be, or use the stirrups fixed with a leather to hold them next to the animal’s sides.

I suggest that you start with a Join-Up®. I recommend three or four sessions on consecutive days, or until your horse is relaxed, following you and perfectly comfortable being with you. I would add to that two or three sessions with the Dually halter as well. I would then begin to work with plastic bags tied to a four foot stick or an artificial arm (see From My hands to Yours, in Your Horse and the Farrier).

I would use the artificial arm as it will allow you to effectively work with your adrenaline down while you get your horse used to tickly, crunchy sounds touching their vulnerable areas. Now go back to your long lines and work your horse in a safe place where he can become accustomed to the tickly lines around his hips and hocks. Gradually, gain the trust of your horse and this problem will usually go away in a short period of time.

For that horse that continues to kick after these procedures have been exercised, I have come to the conclusion that the best treatment is as follows: Recognizing that your horse has been trained to the Dually halter, one should ask an assistant to give you a hand for a couple of sessions. One person will be in charge of the Dually Halter. That person should be the most familiar with the Dually and have substantial strength if possible.

The other person should take the lines back along each side, walking behind the horse well out of the kick zone. The line person should touch the gaskin area just over the hock first on one side and then on the other. If the subject horse should kick, the Dually person should school firmly. This should amount to stopping and backing up while the line person moves in unison with the horse.

This exercise can be psychologically explained by recognizing the fact that the horse needs negative consequences for negative actions. It is hard to accomplish this through typical long lining. I have utilized this technique now for between 20-30 horses and all of them have stopped kicking after 15-20 minutes from initiating these concepts.

11/16/2011: I have read one of your books (The Man Who Listens To Horses) and I found your concepts very interesting. I am doing a project at school about horse behavior and I was wondering if I could ask your opinion. Do you think that horses make conscious decisions or do you think that they act purely on instinct?
I wanted to ask you as you have spent so much time around horses so I thought you could give a personal, non-scientific view on this question.

Monty’s Answer: From about the age of 7 I formed the belief that horses were capable of conscious thought. As a scientist I realized that this theory flies in the face of positions taken by scientists over the millennium. World Book and Britannica were the encyclopedias of note during my growing up years. Each of these works held fast to the traditional belief that horses were only capable of instinctual thought. Both organizations have been present at my round pen and their positions are beginning to waiver.

Clearly, the scientific world cannot jump on the band wagon of every theory that comes down the pike. As innovators we must jump through the proverbial hoops to prove that our assertions are valid. When these people saw horses clearly making the decision to come to a human during fearful times they were obviously shocked and perplexed. Much more work needs to be done to prove that flight animals, while limited, are in fact capable of producing conscious thought. I have completed one science trial pitting Join-Up against traditional horsemanship and I believe that the results will bear me out.

It seems obvious that Mother Nature and survival of the fittest designed the flight animal to be concerned with the present moment. It is obviously the safest way for them to avoid predation. The very label of flight establishes that these animals are very nearly helpless against the claws and teeth of the big cats and the arms and shoulders of the grizzly bear. They need a mind free of conscientious contemplation in order to prepare themselves for the quickest exit possible.

11/9/2011: The language which you are credited with discovering is called ‘Equus’. Why?

Monty’s Answer: I’ve called it Equus taken from the Latin ‘Equus’ which means horse. When I returned home from the wild mustang herds, I tried to communicate with horses according to my observations. And I found out step by step that it works! The only problem was that nobody took it seriously. When I said that horses have their own language, everyone thought that I was mad. And now you can read books about Equus and find it in Encyclopedia Britannica. Everyone says: “Of course I know that horses have their own language.” But nobody agreed with me at that time.

Enjoy the following excerpt from Monty’s autobiographical book titled The Horses In My Life:

“High up on the Nevada ranges, I found I could gain enough trust from family groups [of wild horses] to allow me to read their responses to one another through binoculars. I observed that they had a communication system, a silent one, made up of gestures rather than sounds. Silence was important if they were not to attract predators. The ear, the neck, the tongue, the shoulders and the tail of the horse are most often used to communicate with one another.

In particular, I noted the gestures used by the dominant mare to discipline the youngsters. The gestures were 100 percent predictable and measurable. If a youngster misbehaved, the dominant mare would drive him away, making him stand outside the herd where he was in grave danger from predators. Only when the mare received the correct signals of apology from him – his ear locking on to her, licking and chewing and dropping his head low to the ground, would she allow him back into the safety of the group." – Monty Roberts, The Horses In My Life

11/2/2011: I have been jumping my horse through gymnastics in the arena very well but he gets a bit fast over the fences. I am thinking of putting him through a jump chute. What are your thoughts about this please?

Monty’s Answer: Since the FEI has gone to timing, the rosettes and the money is on speed. With modern measurement technology and specialized staff, they can measure the performance in time, length and speed in jumping. They make use of measurement equipment, sensors with “radio” transponders and direct registration of time in computers, displayed on scoreboards, television and internet.

Being focused on speed can cause horses to charge the fences. My training regime would include only once in a while drilling on speed and 90% of the time drilling WITHOUT speed. The jump chute can be effective if you use elastic side reins to a top ring on a surcingle and set the fences low. Think low and slow. Exercise your horse a long distance with no weight on his back, at liberty and cantering slowly and include walking and relaxing.

Any kind of barrier will work; even with caution tape to form the chute. I would lower your horse’s jumps and make them easy for him again. I suggest 2.5 – 3 feet (1 meter) for full size horses normally jumping 4 to 4.5 feet. Or if yours is a pony, allow him 2 feet when he is normally capable of 3 to 3.5 feet. Let him be professional and work on his style and execute the fence as a professional. Let him build his condition and his confidence. Let him have fun with it.

Then get on and travel low and slow again. Finally, come back to your regular pattern before you go to the show. Charging is caused by being overmatched on fences and a lack of confidence, causing frantic approaches. Speed trials can create behavioral issues and can cost horses their careers, much like happens in barrel racing. The number of times you should ask him to rush is only once in a while so that you are working on both your horse’s speed and relaxation.

10/26/2011: I am writing you in the hope that you can help me. Our recently acquired, five year old, Quarter Horse mare has started biting at my legs/stirrup/saddle when I am in the saddle. It started quite unexpectedly on one of the occasion when I was schooling her in the neighbor’s arena. As I can remember, I asked her to canter, and she moved strangely at this gate, and then began going back at my legs with her mouth. I didn’t discipline it in any way, other than requiring her to complete the canter. She had never acted like this before during previous schooling sessions. It has become worse, and she will now she will go back at me at the walk and trot.

Often it will occur when I am asking her to move from the walk to the trot. This will happen in a more pronounced way if I am using no leg, and only kissing at her to ask for the trot. To remedy the problem, I have tried three different girths, a different saddle, different pad, bareback, with and without the bridle, giving her a week or so off, but to no avail. I tried lunging her with everything on and taking it off one piece at a time, then getting on her after each piece was removed (bridle switched to halter, chest collar removed).

Although she did not react when lunging in the way I described, she would do it when I was on her back, and only when I was on her back. I also tried ridding her on the trails to see if she was just being grumpy in the arena. This, although it did diminish the behavior, it did not cure it and she continued it on the trails. I have also tried tapping firmly on her shoulder when she goes back at me, using the end of the rains on her nose as it comes around, and my hand on her shoulder. Nothing I do seems to be helping.

She also does not enjoy being rubbed just behind her shoulders, or her stomach, and will complain. However, that could be attributed to her being raised on a ranch in Montana where she didn’t do much. She has started complaining during her workouts in other was too, and I am not sure what do to next. We are going to have the vet out to check her teeth; she is touchy around her muzzle and has never, as far as we know, had her teeth done. If she does need her teeth done, would that be causing these problems?

Can you help me? I have, I believe, achieved Join-up with her, but I am not sure how to treat these actions, and do not want to be violent towards her. If you have any suggestions as to how I am supposed to discipline, and or cure, these issues, I would appreciate it!

Monty’s Answer: Congratulations. It seems to me by your letter that you are a bright young lady, not only seeking a good education, but it appears that you are getting one. It is always difficult to diagnose these problems from 6,000 miles away only drawing information from correspondence. There is no substitute for seeing the horse in person, but I will attempt to help as much as I can by answering through experience and using thousands of horses to give me some answers that I would classify as likely or even probably the cause and the treatment. If you haven’t had a complete vet check for your horse this would be strongly recommended.

Most horses that develop a habit of biting the rider’s feet have been ridden with what they perceive to be sharp and inappropriate spurs. Even spurs that would be considered by most horsemen to be appropriate can often be used harshly enough to set this bad habit into motion. Once the horse responds to this stimulus in an aggressive way, the habit seems to be imprinted and then is repeated even when there are no spurs worn at all. There was no mention of spurs in your question, but I submit to you that it is often the case.

The facts remain that you have this problem and now what to do to deal with it. I almost never recommend riding in side reins, but in this case I think side reins could be a big help to you. The use of this tool is described in my book From My Hands to Yours. In this case however I would recommend side reins without elastics and only ride with them after you have accustomed your horse to them from the ground. It might be well to get professional help to watch over your adjusting of the side reins and choosing to ride with them.

10/19/2011: Thank you so much for your incredible instruction and insight into horse training. I have a 10 yr. old OTTB Gelding that unfortunately came to me as a rescue last year. He has stringhalt, severe at times. I have been applying your techniques during his recovery and re-training. Unless I missed it in your book, what does teeth grinding signify? He rarely chews and licks but I can hear him grinding during the times that I believe he should be chewing and licking. Have other horses done this or is this just another neurological symptom from his stringhalt?

Monty’s Answer: Stringhalt is an abnormal gait that involves exaggerated flexion of one or both hock joints, resulting in a rapid elevation of the hind limb. Signs could be exaggerated in nervous or agitated horses, or when they are backed. Most cases of stringhalt are associated with nerve degeneration. If your horse is in pain, that pain could cause stress, but a horse exhibiting stringhalt is usually not in pain.

There is not necessarily a relationship between the teeth grinding and the stringhalt. Abscesses of the mouth can cause grinding of the teeth, as can stress. Please have your veterinarian check for malocclusions. A malocclusion is a misalignment of teeth. Also, your vet can check for ulcers.

Elevated sugars in your horse can cause other neurological symptoms usually associated with stress. Crib biting, wind sucking, weaving and bobbing are similar as in the human conditions of nail chewing and rocking. Obviously I strongly suggest that this might be a medical condition rather than a behavioral one. But this could be a classic “Which came first; the chicken or the egg?”

10/12/2011: Which qualities should a person have if they would like to work with horses?

Monty’s Answer: The most important thing is to get the violence out of your system. Then you have to strictly decide that you’ll really only work without using violence. If you decide this, you take a very clever step because you will clearly know what your work will absolutely not look like.

So, get the violence out of your system and keep your adrenaline to a minimum. The ability to stay calm when you work with horses is definitely a very important quality. Another requirement is that you are not self-centered.

At times I get connected with people who want to do business with me. But these people are usually very self-centered and think only about themselves. In my opinion, when somebody is egotistic to people he will be egotistic to horses as well.

10/5/2011: Do you still see people who use rough training nowadays? Is it still that cruel? Why do you think they do it?

Monty’s Answer: Unfortunately I do still see people using violence to train horses. Some people simply do not want to accept anything other than their traditional practices, and I see this a lot in certain countries, especially Argentina, Chile and Columbia, but I have witnessed all kinds of violence all over the world. Even in my own country I still encounter horses that have been treated with violence.

Violence is not always striking or whipping a horse, sometimes it is simply a disregard for the horse’s needs. For example, in Spain they cut horses’ tails, or even break the tail bone, to stop the horse from swishing its tail. Then they turn the horses with no tail out in a field in the summer with no defense against the flies that pester them. That is terrible enough, but they can’t see it.

They say, “But I cut my own hair, what is so terrible about cutting my horse’s hair?” or they justify it because they don’t want their clothes to become dirty from being touched by the horse’s muddy tail during a ride. I answer simply, “The horses have to protect themselves from the insects. Would you choose to stand in a field full of mosquitos without any clothes to protect you?”

The problem is that people don’t know their horses’ needs. They are not educated, they do not see the world from the horse’s perspective. We should be more progressive in this day and age. There is so much brutality all over the world. If you think about it, you’ll come to the same conclusion that I have come to: No more violence. In most cases, it is safer and easier. It is the right way.

9/28/2011: I have a twelve year old Thoroughbred mare that I am planning to take to horse shows but she has a problem with trailers. She was at the racetrack the first three years of her life and then she came back to the farm without leaving for the next nine years.

For about three weeks I fed her in the trailer until she was comfortable going in and out of it. The first few times a couple other people stood behind her to coax her in but only increased her discomfort for anyone behind her so I continued to work with her alone. Of course I couldn’t lead her in and shut the gate behind her at the same time so I asked another person to help shut the door once she was inside.

She walked into the trailer quietly and started eating but when she realized the door was closed, she panicked and started kicking. He was able to latch the door closed as she was kicking it and then I was able to get her quiet. We took her for a little ride in the trailer and then brought her back to the farm. The next time I had someone to help with the door; she panicked and kicked the door again.

Since he wasn’t able to latch the door, she flew back out of the trailer. This repeated a few times which ended up in damage to the floor of the trailer. I have since gotten it repaired and want to try loading her again but without her doing damage to it or herself. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Monty’s Answer: Dealing with this business of door kickers is not an easy subject. Once the horse frightened themselves by kicking the door they tend to blame the door and it’s not an easy fix. My #1 suggestion would be to load the horse in a trailer with no partitions. Turn them to an angle in the trailer before closing the door and then release them to be free inside the trailer as you take them on a journey.

I recommend that one executes a fair distance on this trip attempting to observe their behavior during the course of it. It is helpful to continue long enough so that you achieve relaxation before ending the session. I personally like to put some hay in the front corner. Stop once in a while and see if you can get them to stand quietly with no motion. With the use of the Dually halter, I school my horses to back in to a substantial fence using the corner of a pen or field.

The object of this lesson is to accustom the horse to having a wall or object behind them without taking offence to it. Remember that the trailer is a dark confining place and most horses have a tendency to feel the need for more freedom. There is a claustrophobic component to this problem and the more we can do to help the horse understand that they are not going to be hurt the better we will do.

Once the horse will load and haul loose and relaxed then we can proceed to the next level. At this point I would add the presence of a friend to the scenario. This might be a pony or a small horse which also travels loose with your subject animal. When this can be accomplished with relaxation and a low pulse rate, then begin to consider replacing the partitions and trying once more to accomplish traditional transportation.

One should always be aware of stall sizes and the direction the horse is asked to face. Slant hauling is advisable. This is where the stall is a 45% angle to the road.

9/21/2011: I have seen you in two videos on the Equus Online Uni starting a Join-Up by the wall of the round pen instead of using the center to start off. What’s the reason for it?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for your inquiry. This is an interesting topic for me. Recently I realized that I had been suggesting to one of my instructors that one should use the wall to release instead of releasing in the center. My instructor insisted that releasing in the center was safer for the handler and I was just as strong in my belief that it was less safe. Only in the last few months did circumstances arise that my instructor accepted my recommendation.

If you have a conventional round pen with one gate, then you have an area resembling a clock. If the gate is considered to be 6 o’clock then directly across from the gate is 12 o’clock. After orientation in the center, if one leads to 2 o’clock, your horse will virtually always turn away from you and proceed toward the gate. This means that one is controlling to a high percentage of probability, the exact direction and pathway that the horse is most likely to use.

Releasing in the center allows the horse to choose virtually any direction on the clock thus the handler is less likely to accurately predict the direction the horse will take. When the handler is uncertain of the horse movements, it is more likely that unpredictable behavior can occur. It is probably a minute alteration of the probability factor but I have seen more scary releases when done from the center than when done from a point from which the horse’s nose is on 2 o’clock.

You probably remember that the horses travel the perimeter of their enclosure more comfortably than they do negotiating the center of any given area. My recommended method gives the horse an immediate comfort zone as it turns away from you, eyes on eyes and proceeds around the fence line as the handler migrates to a more central location and tends to encourage the horse to go away. I promise it works. Try it; you’ll like it.

9/14/2011: What do you do with a horse that pins her ears when you feed her?

Monty’s Answer: If a horse should own any part of the day, it’s when they’re eating. When you feed a horse, leave them alone. Get the feed to them as easily as you can without mixing in at all, then leave them alone. Give them plenty of time to eat. This is not a time when they ought to be pleased with having you in their lives. Horses that are cranky when they’re fed are cranky because they want you out of their life and they want the tranquility of being able to eat without being bothered by a human being. You wouldn’t want them coming and hanging their head over your table when you’re having lunch, and they feel the same way. So, it is best to leave your horse alone when you feed them.

9/7/2011: We currently have 4 horses (2 geldings & 2 mares) and have just added a new gelding to the herd. Is there a best way to handle the introductions? I currently have the new guy running with one of the mares (lower in the pecking order) and they are separate from the other 3 horses. Thank you for any help.

Monty’s Answer: In situations where a new horse is introduced to an established group, it is always best to conduct an introduction process. Introductions should be accomplished by first allowing contact with a safe secure fence between the new horse and the established horses. Recognizing that there are personality differences, there should always be attention paid to the introduction process. In some cases it would take up to 10 days for the established horses to settle with the new one. When vocalizing or displaying aggressive behavior is completely eliminated from the scenario then, and only then, is it appropriate to release the new horse with the established horses.

With this procedure in place one should continue to closely observe behavior of all horses during the first 24-48 hours, as acts of aggression can still take place. If there is dangerous activity one should re-separate for several days more before amalgamating the horses. If all horses are acting in an acceptable manner for about 48 hours then one could consider that they have made the transition successfully. This does not mean that unacceptable behavior will never reoccur. It is our obligation to be ever mindful that horses can develop problems with one another where dangerous activity can re-occur. A safe environment for horses should be the goal for every horse owner.

8/31/2011: I want to use your concepts effectively. How many lessons should I be taking a day/week/month. Any suggestions, or does it matter much?

Monty’s Answer: If you are referring to lessons from the Equus Online University, then my answer is a very easy one. Structure your lesson count to your own comfort zone. Each of us has a unique life to lead and these lessons should fit into our lifestyle in a user-friendly fashion. Personally, I am the sort of person that might easily do 20 lessons in a day and then none for 5-6 days when I am committed to other projects. Most students have a far less rigorous schedule than I do and they should be comfortable that their learning needs are met with numbers that fit their unique circumstances.

8/24/2011: What do I do when my riding instructor says “Turn the crop around and use the hard end!”?

Monty’s Answer: Thank you for sharing your story with me. I believe there is no one on earth that has experienced the principles of this story more than me. I must admit that there was a time when I was convinced that the answer was to turn the whip around and use the heavy end on the instructor. Obviously that would qualify as using the same techniques on him that I found unacceptable on the horse; clearly this is never the answer. I have agonized over a reasonable response to this scenario for more than 50 years now and I believe that I am now prepared to deal with this situation in a manner which suits my concepts, lives by my beliefs and is as educational as one can be with these individuals.

My solution is to outline those procedures acceptable and unacceptable to me prior to agreeing to be a customer of the instructor. It is my belief that if one is a paying student for violent techniques then it is true that you are a contributor to violent techniques. My response to an instructor who operates as you have suggested is tell him or her that you are tempted to use the heavy end of the whip on them but since they have chosen to request violent techniques after the original agreement was made then they are simply not worth your effort to alter their behavior. I recommend that you immediately walk away and not return. If one feels the instructor is worth the effort then make minimal attempts verbally.

8/17/2011: I would learn everything about your trainings but I don’t have enough money to go to your courses, so www.montyroberts.com helps me a lot. I have ridden horses for 10 years in English style. I do dressage and I know there is an amount of dressage riders in the world who are aggressive and violent when they work with their horses. So my first question is how can I teach harder exercises (for example piaffe or pirouette) to a horse without violence? Can you give me a step-by-step advice? Thank you in advance.

Monty’s Answer: It seems to me as though you are the perfect horse lover, if I am to change the world of horse training. I too started with no money but a burning desire to discover concepts which would allow me to train with no violence. The piaffe, in particular is a requirement that I feel should be eliminated from the dressage routines. I have seen many people train the piaffe without violence but more than 90% use violent techniques before the piaffe is trained.

It is also difficult to produce a high scoring piaffe without violence but although it takes longer it can be done. Commit yourself to non-violent training and then begin a series of innovations that will accomplish your goals without using force or pain. Anyone who is interested in improving the industry will adopt my commitment to get violence and pain out of the training of horses.

8/3/2011: I have a 3 year old Thoroughbred colt that is in training, and he holds his breath while racing. Two jockeys have told me the same thing. He takes a big breath at the finish line. How do I get him to breathe while racing?

Monty’s Answer: You have asked the question that is rare indeed. I often say that there is no more than 50 questions asked repeatedly but this is rare. It is however interesting and a valuable inquiry to make. All quarter horses typically ruin their races without a breath. Once crossing the finish line they will make one big gasp to oxygenate. This behavior occurs as the result of a habit acquired by many sprinters, horses and human.