This is long so I'm gonna make it two parts. Part 1:: I should not be the one to talk. I'm currently working with my horse on the same general thing. I can also use long, split, western reins if I so choose. But I found out quickly the reins was not the issue. It sounds to me like you have 2 issues to deal with. 1: The horse doesn't stand very still while mounting. 2: The horse, in one form or another, won't yield his/her hind quarters to the mounting block. If I'm correct in what you are saying. I would work on issue number 1 first. No sense in teach a horse to come to a mounting block if it's just gonna move all over the place and topple the ride off the mounting block. So use a Dully Halter and school the horse to stand still. It might take a few sessions. Then introduce a mounting block to the situation. Put the mounting block about 6 to 9 feet (2 to3 meters) away from a fence or wall. Then walk the horse in-between using the lead and Dully Halter. Next; stop in-between. Get the horse to stand there motionless. Next; go stand on the mounting block. The horse should not move from its position. Just put the lead over its neck. If the horse gets fidgety grab the lead and do some schooling. Then start moving the mounting block inward until there is only about a 3 foot space (1 meter). This should only take a session or so. I call a session about and hour long. Next; set everything up the same but start the mounting process with your regular saddle and tack. Start by using the mounting block but just get halfway on. One foot in the stirrup and your weight only. Then a full mount. At no time should the horse move until you say it can move. Its always good to then move out and around and back to the mounting block. This will give release to the horse and reinforce the dismounting process as well. Next; start moving the mounting block away from the fence or wall, in small increments (1 foot or so [1/3 meter]), continuing the mounting and dismounting process. When you are like out to 10 to 20 yards (10 to 20 meters) away from a wall or fence you got the mounting down pat.

Part 2:: As for yielding the hind quarters or coming to the mounting block. You can use the same incremental method with light and soft rope connected to the stirrup leather on the off side and around to cantle to the on side. Also go back to the Dully Halter and lead rope. Start the horse out only a foot (1/3 meter) or so away from the mounting block. The horse has been now taught to stand still. Then get on the mounting block with lead rope in one hand and soft rope around the cantle in the other and just coax the horse to yield by pressure from the soft rope around the cantle (and you making clucking or kissing sound) just a half step. Continue this until the horse with little or no pressure yields to the mounting block. Next; start moving the mounting block farther away in 1 foot (1/3 meter) increments. But use the lead rope and soft rope around the cantle with less and less pressure. Encourage the horse by clucking or kissing sounds and the language of Equus to come to you. The lead and rope should have a big smiles in them at this point. Once you can get the horse to come to block with lead and rope out to about 6 feet (2 meters) your like all most there. This could take 10 to 20 sessions. Next; using full tack and no lead or rope, start the yielding process all over again. Once again, start by moving the mounting block farther away in 1 foot (1/3 meter) increments. Use clucking or kissing sounds and the language of Equus so the horse stars to come to you. This could take an additional 10 to 20 sessions. But by then your horse, by its own free will, will coming to you from any distance for a mount. If you really want to mix things up. Teach the horse to mount from both sides. It only take a little extra time. Remember, whenever the horse dose the right thing. Give it love and rub those withers. Remember to school quickly when needed. Always try to use the language of Equus. It's not natural for a horse to come to a predator that is standing above it. I hope this helps.

Thank you that was extremely helpful! My project horse does stand still once i bring him to a mounting block the problem lies in the fact that once there he won't move whether his hind end is near me or not. Your suggestions sound like they will help a lot! Do you have any ideas on how to make him want to come to me? He's a rather old QH but doesn't know his own age. Still he is stiff and very reluctant to bend at all. I can't get him to bend his neck at all when I'm not on him and even than he resists a bit. Do you know what might help?

No doubt I will get "jumped on" by some of Monty's students for this one as Monty does not believe in hand feeding horses with treats but I do. I do reward my horses with bits of chopped up carrot carried in a bum bag but I also train them not to look for the carrot in my hand and to stand still with their heads facing straight ahead prior to receiving a carrot bit. Unfortunately this training can not apply to the exercises I am suggesting below as for these exercises your horse does have to search for the carrot bit. Certainly in your case where your horse has a stiff neck and is reluctant to bend the following carrot exercises will really help him to flex up a bit.
Exercise 1. Let your horse sniff the carrot bit in your hand and then take the carrot down between his front legs so he will follow it down with his head. Repeat this exercise 3 times. Don't allow him to take the carrot from your hand until you offer it to him
Exercise 2. Let your horse sniff the carrot and then take your hand back close to his body towards his girth spot so that he needs to stretch his neck around to follow your hand with the carrot hold the carrot as long as you can so that he keeps his head there - again don't allow him to take the carrot until you offer it to him. Try this exercise when mounted too but without the carrot. Just try making him stand still then gently bring his head around towards your knee with the reins. Do this exercise on both sides.
With your mounting problems get him responsive to pressure from your hand with the dually as an aid, and teach him to stand still as Greg has indicated. When he is responsive to hand pressure he should back up once you place your hand on his chest, move his front legs sidewards with hand pressure on his shoulder and to move his back legs sidewards and away from you with hand pressure on his rump just behind his flank. Once you have achieved this you should be able to manipulate him with the dually and your hand pressure to where you want him to stand while you mount. Have fun.

Hi Maggie, I'm not going to jump on you lol - the exercises you suggest are great and I know Kelly Marks like this exercise a lot, however she put the carrot or apple on the end of a stick for 2 reasons (1) the carrot is not associated with the hand and (b) you can extend the range of stretches because you now have a much longer arm and can reach over his back and teach him to stretch away from you as well :-0 The horse taking the carrot off the stick is then its own reward without the hand being involved.

Do you have any ideas on how to make him want to come to me? Yes!!! Do the Uni Lessons on Join-Up and CATCHING YOUR HORSE IN THE PASTURE. With these lesson your horse will follow you anywhere and everywhere. But start with a Dully Halter and those Lessons. I like Ms. Maggie suggestion for a neck exercise. May I add, start working on your horse's lateral and vertical flexion. You can first do it for him. My horse loved it. Though he was getting a massage. Then teach him thru pressure and release to do it himself. I bet his stiffness is due to a lack stretching. Think of a horse as an athlete; a sprinter, middle distance runner or high jumper to be exact. Think of yourself as the track coach. Be a team. :)

Thank you!!!

I will definitely be trying these sessions