Hi, everyone!
At the stables where I work, there's this little pony named Clay who, when brought into his paddock, bolts away from you before you can unclip his lead line. The stables uses chains over the nose (something I highly disagree with) so it takes longer to unclip the chain than it would take a regular lead rope. Already, he's broken somebody's fingers with his bolting and I'd like to start working with him to see if I can work it out of him. I'd like to run my plan by you all to make sure it lines up 100% with Monty's principles!
I'd like to bring Clay out on a long line WITHOUT the chain over his nose. When I reach for the clip and he bolts, I'll use the long line to turn him into a circle around me. And then I'll put him to work. I'll encourage him to continue to canter around me for awhile until I bring him back in. Then I'll reach for the clip once he's standing next to me quietly and if he bolts away again, I'll make him work some more. My goal is to have him allow me to quietly unclip his lead after which he walks away calmly. I sort of took the idea from Monty's Cutting Corners videos: when he does his own thing, it becomes uncomfortable for him because he has to work. But when calmly waits for the lead rope to come off, it becomes comfortable because he is allowed to walk away.
What do you all think? If this doesn't sound like it would be effective, how can I get Clay out of his bolting?
Thanks for any comments!
Nickers,
Holly
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Hi Holly
I agree with you, chain over his nose awful, no wonder he bolts away!! Its become a self reinforcing behaviour now, chain hurts, let go, relief, run away. What you are doing though sound great. However, I have an idea you/others might also want to try - it worked with one I was working with who used to bolt away when taking the headcollar off (very dangerous habit to let them develop). I had two headcollars on - I took the first one off so she thought she was free to go but it wasnt attached to a lead rope - the second one was and then she realised she was still attached. I mixed them about for a while so she didnt know which one was the cue to go. After a few sessions of this she is now perfect and when the headcollar comes off she waits a couple of seconds to be sure she is allowed to move away. If you are leaving the headcollar on (a fieldsafe one - though my personal belief is that horses should not be turned out in headcollers at all, fieldsafe or otherwise, unless there are exceptional circumstances)and just want to take the leadrope off use the same idea but with two leadropes clipped on - take one off, keep yourself safe and well out of the way as he will begin to take off but you can correct him/bring him back. I very strongly recommend that you use LONG lead (as you are) ropes not these little 6 foot things so you have plenty of space to work in but watch you don't get tangled, might be an idea to have a friend with you. I think what you are doing sounds great Holly and I'm sure he will understand soon and it will work, I only throw these other ideas in for us all in different but similar scenarios :-) Best of luck, keep us updated!
I dont believe in using chains on horses. I think they are cruel and unnecessary. That said, Holly, it sounds like you have the right idea.
Yes - I agree - chains across noses on horses are very cruel especially in the wrong hands and I would not wish to use one. On Monty's dually halter the discipline rope across the nose with the rings each end acts in a similar fashion to a chain but it is softer, much kinder and even more effective as it is not cruel to the horse. To solve this little ones problem I would follow Viccihh's suggestion but with a dually halter as the halter under neath the outer one with a long lead rope attached to the discipline ring. In this way if the pony takes off when you remove the first halter you will still be able to hold him and he will learn a discipline lesson as well. It should take long until you have the problem solved. The pony will probably need the red dually unless he is very small. Good luck with it and let us know how it goes. Your own idea is good but I think the dually will speed up the process and reduce the risk on injury to you or the pony.
Just an add on - teach the pony to lead, back up and stand still with the dually before you use it as above. The pony needs to get used to it first.
Thanks everyone!
I'll let you all know when I've gotten a chance to work with him!
Holly
I like the way how you analyze the problem...For your security wear gloves...
Rudi
Hi there - please think this one through one more time :) Every time he bolts away you let go of the line so it is slack and then you pull him back! You need to build up the comfort zone toghether with you - sending him away over and over again makes you train him to do the bolting more dangourus - he will get even more confused. Do your work on the Dually and a long line and the glowes might be a good one as well!
So reversed psychology! Be safe, be clear and concistant with your timing and release and build up the sweetspot with you! Good Luck and Keep on Equus!
Warmest Ann Lindberg CI Sweden
Some horses will buck out when they are corrected with a backward pull on the line so make sure you are not in the kick zone ,do not let him partially take off and pull back strongly as some people do.I have seen a friend get a nasty kick in the thigh using that common technique.Schooling with the dually ,walking with the horse,then as you stop for a minute,turn toward the horse as you would to unhook the halter[but don't undo it ]stroke and praise him,then moving again,repeating over and over seems to work well.When going into the paddock after doing and suceeding with the above consistently, continue training for a few minutes so he no longer assumes he gets set free as soon as he enters. Eventually when you no longer need to do the extra training in the paddock,make it a habit to stand and stroke him and he'll come to expect it and calm down.